How to insulate a house from a log from the inside. Internal insulation of a log house

One of the advantages of log houses is their high heat-saving characteristics.

However, over time, due to the shrinkage of the walls of the log house, cracks appear between the logs, the insulation between the crowns of the log house loses its properties and it becomes cooler in the building.

In a climatic zone with severe winters, there is a need to insulate houses built from logs with a diameter of 180 mm or less.

In this article we will tell you how to insulate a log house from the outside and from the inside, what building materials are suitable for this.

Features of the insulation of log houses

The peculiarities of insulating houses made of rounded logs are due to the properties of wood.

Wooden log cabins shrink by 6 - 8% during the first half of the year, therefore, insulation work should not be started earlier than a year after the completion of construction.
Since new timber houses keep warm well, there is no need to rush

Wooden walls breathe. Depending on the season and weather conditions, the moisture content of the wood changes, so the logs must be ventilated. If the surface of the walls is covered with a vapor-proof material, excess moisture will have nowhere to go and the logs will begin to rot

Log buildings have an attractive appearance, which is why many homeowners do not want to degrade it by insulating facades.
Internal insulation is less effective, but if certain rules are followed, it brings success

Insulation for a log house

The main requirement is imposed on the heaters of wooden structures: they must be vapor-permeable.

This requirement is met by fibrous materials, the most common of which is mineral wool.

Mineral wool is made from fiberglass, slag and rocks.

The fibers are held together with organic binders and impregnated with water-repellent compounds.

Glass wool is inconvenient to install because it has spiky fibers
Slag wool is acidic and, with increasing humidity, emits aggressive substances
Stone wool has no disadvantages, except for the common to all fibrous materials

Mineral wool has the following characteristics:

Thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.038 - 0.053 W / mhK
Sound absorption coefficient - 0.95
Density - 75 - 200 kg / cu.
Compressive strength - 0.04 - 0.06 MPa
Water vapor permeability - 0.49-0.60 Mg / (m × h × Pa)
Maximum operating temperature - over 800 degrees

The following brands of mineral wool are used in construction (the number in the designation corresponds to the density of the material):

P-75 - for thermal insulation of horizontal surfaces without load on the insulation (interfloor floors between the logs)
P-125 - for thermal insulation of inclined and vertical surfaces without load on the insulation (roof and walls)
ПЖ-175 and ППЖ-200 - for thermal insulation of any surfaces with a load on the insulation (floors with cement screed and flat roofs)

Stone wool P-125 is optimal for insulating houses.

Insulation of log houses

To perform high-quality thermal insulation at home, you need to insulate all surfaces in contact with the spring environment.

These include:

Window and doorways
Roof
Walls

Work should begin with caulking the seams between the crowns of the log house.

How to insulate a log house with your own hands

The walls are caulked from the street and from the inside. For this, jute and synthetic tape insulation or moss are used. Next, the openings, floors and roof are insulated. This is often enough. If not, proceed to the thermal insulation of the walls.

How to insulate a log house outside?

Insulation from the outside of the facade is performed as follows:

The sheathing beams are nailed to the walls horizontally with a step, a couple of centimeters smaller than the width of the mineral wool slabs.
Their width should be slightly more than the thickness of the insulation layer
Plates are inserted between the bars. Laying is carried out in at least two layers with bandaging of joints
Insulation for a wooden house is closed from the outside with a windproof membrane.
This film material protects mineral wool from moisture, but allows vapors to pass from the insulation layer to the outside. For the membrane to work correctly, it must be hung with the rough side out.
A vertical crate is nailed to the bars for attaching finishing materials. Thus, a ventilation gap is created between the thermal insulation layer and the outer cladding for ventilation of the walls and insulation.
Finishing materials are attached to the crate.
It can be lining, imitation of timber or block house

Internal insulation of a log house

Since wood is a good heat insulator, when insulating from the inside, the dew point (the point with the freezing point of water in which condensation forms) rarely moves outside the walls.

Nevertheless, measures to remove moisture from the log house will not be superfluous.

For this, experts recommend leaving a ventilation gap between the walls and the insulation of at least 2 cm.

Warming is performed as follows:

To provide a gap, a vertical wooden lathing is nailed to the walls.
A membrane is attached on top of it
With a step slightly smaller than the width of the insulation, mount the counter-crate
Between its beams, slabs of mineral wool or foam are inserted in several layers
Hang up a vapor barrier film
Walls are sheathed with finishing materials - clapboard, drywall, chipboard, etc.

The technology of wall insulation with penofol is much simpler.

This roll material is made of polyester foam, covered with foil on one side. Penofol is absolutely not afraid of moisture, which means it does not require steam - waterproofing.

Penofol strips are attached to the slats providing a ventilation gap with foil towards the room. The material is laid with an overlap of 10 cm. The joints are sealed with construction tape. There should be a gap of 2 cm between the insulation and the finishing materials.

The modern building materials market allows you to choose insulation for the outer walls of a wooden house for every taste.

In addition to the materials described, OSB, sprayed thermal insulation, etc. are used for internal insulation.

But the best insulation for wooden houses is stone wool.

How to insulate a wooden house from the outside

Many of us in the construction of a house made of wood I believe this issue, like an exterior insulation log, is durable, cheap and most importantly, it won't be an additional inconvenience or even harm to the tenants themselves.

It is necessary that not all insulation materials are suitable for specific environmental, durability, thermal protection and moisture consumption requirements.

Why is it necessary to isolate the frame?

A wooden timber house house is very special in aesthetics and retains heat quite well.

However, with a temporary reduction and between the logs of the mezenets seam, a notch forms, which is dangerous not only because it will let the cold through, but also retains dangerous moisture that affects the life of the tree.

In addition, many of us live in rather difficult climatic conditions, so heating the frame from the outside is simply necessary to maintain an optimal microclimate in the house.

Correct insulation of a house made of wood in the future will preserve not a small heat carrier.

What is important to know about home isolation?

Once the frame has been created, the shrinkage process starts from 10 to 24 months.

The fact is that during this period the forests were in contact with humidity, in hot summer, on the contrary, they dry up, which contributes to a change in their height, the appearance of cracks in the diaries outside and the gaps between them.

In this regard, work on external insulation can begin in less than a year or a year and a half.

It is also important to understand that the moisture content of wood varies depending on external factors (season, time) and that the chalet has used ventilation for a long time.

Under no circumstances should you insulate with impermeable materials, because moisture cannot go and the frame will start to rot.

Thermal insulation for a wooden house

As we have already understood, the main requirement of the insulating material is air permeability.

They are mainly used as external insulation of logs:

Mineral wool;
Styrofoam;
Extruded expanded polystyrene;
Polyurethane foam heater;
Polyurethane foam.

Regardless, whichever material you choose, remember that there must be an air layer on the outside of the thermal insulation against the upside-down material.

This will avoid excessive humidification and improve some future ventilation.

Additional information and video tips:

In any case, the process of heating a house requires the acquisition of the following tools and parts:

Anchor bolts;
Waterproofing film;
Antifungal solution;
Self-tapping screws;
Plumb bob;
Level;
Construction coupling.

Mineral wool heaters

This type of insulation is most often used to heat the frame from the outside.

It is non-toxic and does not burn, but it has many disadvantages.

When we are made of fiberglass and slag wool, then such materials (containing small iron particles) can be oxidized and corroded even at high humidity and, thus, choosing them as a heater, good protection against water ingress.

Insulate the outside of the house with mineral wool with good water repellency and on both sides.

Otherwise, the lowest moisture on the block of such insulation can lead to failure and remove the heat retention properties.

Builders have a lot of respect for stone builders, accounting for almost 95% of basalt, which means it is virtually unaffected by moisture and fire.

A house insulated with stone wool blocks is better protected from temperature changes, severe frost or heat.

In addition, stones have better sound absorption characteristics than their opponents.

Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene is an equally popular material for frame insulation. This is usually done in leaves per meter, and the thickness is often different - from 20 to 30 mm.

The use of foam in the process of heating the frame is very convenient due to its lightness and comfort of cutting.

It is also attracted by the fact that it is completely safe for human health, but only up to 75 degrees Celsius.

After that, the foam extracts the phenolic vapor, which is very harmful to humans.

The main disadvantage of such a heater is good burnout, but this can be very dangerous for a wooden house.

Extruded expanded polystyrene

This may be the best of the external insulation materials described above.

It is similar to polystyrene, it is composed of polystyrene, but the technology for its production is completely different.

Extruded polystyrene (EPS) is extruded.

The granules are first dissolved and a homogeneous viscous mass is obtained, which, upon receipt of certain chemical additives, becomes a material with strong intermolecular bonds.

Therefore, EP has the following advantages:

Fully adapted Russian climate due to resistance to frost and not susceptibility to decay;
Resistant to the strongest temperature changes;
Durability of the material (life expectancy up to 50 years in the open state);
Easy installation;
Democratic price, although more expensive than plastic foam;
This is possible without additional waterproofing;
Ecological composition;
Absolute protection against moisture (this material does not absorb water, even if it is simply added to the bath).

Foam insulated insulation

This is a relatively new type of insulation in a structure, which itself is a layer of polyethylene foam on an aluminum base (on one side and on both sides).

Thermal insulation material, insulated with foam, retains heat one and a half times better than polystyrene and mineral wool.

It weighs a little and does not pose any additional problems when installed.

The only, but serious shade of such a heater is absolute vapor and gas tightness, which makes it suitable for heating the frame from the outside.

After using such a heater, you can make a "greenhouse" out of the house, where the microclimate and ventilation will be disturbed.

Polyurethane foam

This insulation is applied to the surface in the form of foam using defined cylinders, and after drying it forms a strong layer that follows the shape of the wall.

Its speed advantage, after all, does not need to be directed and monitored by the blocking process as with all other types.

However, the use of polyurethane foam requires special equipment, which significantly increases the cost of such insulation.

The price is only negative, otherwise it does not have the same.

Think about polyurethane foam:

It lies easily and tightly on any surface;
Fills in all cracks and cracks in magazines or magazines;
Protects against corrosion (eg iron frame at home);
Fast and easy installation;
Mold resistant, rotten, not suitable for insects or rodents;
Long service life.

output

The information in this article will help you make the right decision and choose the best exterior insulation material for your home.

Most importantly, remember that up to 40% of the warmth in the room, as well as the comfort and comfort of life, depends on it.

Heated corners

Freezing corners is an inconvenience that Khrushchev tenants can face as slab or stone buildings and country houses, even if they are made of wood, albeit stone.

Fortunately, this serious problem can be solved in-house.

Let's talk about how to deal with cold corners.

Thermal insulation in practice and in theory

Cold bridges make corners the most vulnerable part of almost every home. These parts of the structural structure have increased thermal conductivity.

Each vertical or horizontal angle represents a geometric cold bridge. If a building supplier is permitted - tightly sealed seams, gaps in concrete, insufficient mortar between bricks, lack of adequate insulation - problems cannot be avoided.

Where there is a cold, the surface temperature of the wall in winter can drop below the dew point and maintain room temperature in the room.

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In such spaces, due to the temperature difference that forms in the form of condensation, which leads to the formation of a form, and when it freezes, it turns into ice crystals.

The most logical solution in this case is to install insulation from the inside of the wall.

But each such insulation essentially identically insulates the wall from heat and cold.

Using a heater can further aggravate the situation as it will move the dew point to the inside of the wall. For example, if you warm the foundation in winter.

As a result, the cold air from the road will freeze, because the heat from the apartment cannot penetrate the insulation.

Humidification and freezing continue, the heater becomes unusable and ceases to function.

In addition, ice crystals will continue to erode wall material, further increasing cold bridges.

How to warm up the corners of the house?

The ideal solution to this problem is to insulate the entire facade from the outside and seal it tightly. Have a house that will be renovated very realistically, but in an apartment building, you will have to seek help from a management company.

But don't give up.

And in a separate apartment, you can get a good result. You must first remove the wallpaper. If there are no visible cracks, the walls are recorded with a hammer, where there are voids, the sound will be dull. Then remove the plaster over the open cavities and dry the corner thoroughly.

If there is mold, which must be treated with special antifungal agents.

Sometimes the damage to the mold is so great that it is necessary to use acid, fire, fan, or sanding the surface.

All cracks and voids are filled with foam or foam. This will prevent moisture from entering the room, even if there are cracks in the outer wall. Finally, clean up the remaining foam and tamper with the corner.

The work is best done during the warm season to completely get rid of moisture and mold in the room.

If very large cavities are found, they do not need to be filled with mineral wool or paste, as these materials tend to accumulate moisture.

It is better to use all the same prefabricated foams. It is resistant to moisture, does not rot and mold, has high adhesive properties, does not lose quality when frozen.

Modern thermal insulation

Today, manufacturers offer various materials that greatly facilitate the repair process and take it to a qualitatively new level.

For example, special thermal insulation materials are lightweight mixtures in which microscopic polystyrene granules or lightweight natural aggregates are used instead of sand.

This type of plaster is often simpler than usual and is well used and replaceable.

Due to the presence of air pores, the hot mixture has a high vapor permeability, regulates condensation and ensures a healthy indoor microclimate.

Thermal layers of 50 mm for the effect of thermal insulation are equivalent to laying in one and a half to two bricks or two centimeter layers of expanded polystyrene, but this is not enough.

Recently, new materials have been released on the market, produced by various manufacturers under different brands, but combining them with the general name "liquid thermal insulation".

For such problem areas, it is irreplaceable as freezing in the corner.

The color-like insulating pendant consists of hollow microspheres that effectively reflect heat radiation.

The microspheres are suspended in a binder composition of synthetic rubber or acrylic polymers, antifungal and anticorrosive additives, and color pigments.

This composition gives the current thermal insulation properties of water resistance, flexibility, lightness and power, but this is certainly a publicity stunt.

But don't go for the current insulation, trust is basalt.

Thermal conductivity of liquid heat insulators is significantly lower than for conventional heaters. Several layers of this color can replace 5-10 cm of polyurethane foam or 10 cm thick basalt, according to manufacturers, but this is often silly.

It is used on almost all surfaces - concrete, brick, wood, because it has excellent adhesion, is non-toxic, does not contain harmful compounds and is painted in any color (this is just a color).

In the home area, liquid insulation is applied in any suitable way and then, after drying, covered with any final material.

Do-it-yourself thermal insulation of a wooden house: step-by-step instructions

This is not only a well-known architectural method, but also a method of additional heating.

You can use interesting design solutions. For example, in the corner of the ceiling, install drywall with lighting from ordinary bulbs.

Work lamps heat the air inside the structure by pushing dew into the wall.

You can use the services of companies that offer thermal imaging when buying a house or an expensive apartment.

Experts will help locate all heat leaks and determine if builders malfunctions can be repaired.

It can protect owners from a range of home maintenance problems and will save significant resources.

According to the technology of construction of wooden houses, the corners at the corners were fixed with special cutting "locks" with additional built-in natural insulation.

This safely protects the structure from freezing.

Country cottages in a modern building are very popular. Their natural environmental compatibility, low cost and excellent performance have attracted many developers.

How to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside?

External insulation of a wooden frame

Thermal insulation of wooden houses is usually carried out one year or 2 years after the completion of construction, when a complete collapse of the frame occurs. First, sealing work is performed: all blown prints must be fixed in walls, ceilings, floor coverings, through which cold air enters and the heat evaporates outside.

Morning, towed fibers, hemp and other natural and synthetic heaters are used as sealing materials.

All gaps are tightly closed and bridged, treated joints and interference zones are covered with a special protective solution or foam.

In addition, a ventilated façade design can be implemented outside to insulate a timber house.

The main advantage of this design is that the wood continues to cause excessive moisture and "breathes". Initially, the wood surface is protected from mold and fire, thereby inhibiting fire retardants and antiseptics.

In addition, the lining panel is made with mineral wool insulation and superfusion membrane in mind.

It is necessary to insulate the carriage with mineral wool so as not to soften or mold the cork, otherwise the thermal insulation and sealing of the frame will be unreliable.

Finally, to safely insulate the house from the outside, the side is attached to the box.

Internal insulation of a wooden frame

Heating of a private wooden house from the inside usually starts at the windows, because it is with significant heat loss.

The optimal solution is to install wooden frames with double glazed windows or plastic profiles. Internal registration of journals is carried out using vilaterm technology. The joints and beams between the beams are clogged with acrylic rubber seals and sealants (Vilatherm), which significantly reduces the thermal conductivity of the joints. The walls inside the rooms are covered with lining, block, decorative tiles or stones.

Thus, your home will be effectively protected from moisture and cold.

Due to the insulation of the floor in a wooden house, it is more often than not you can do with a regular carpet.

If there is obvious permeability in the corners and in contact with the walls, they can be treated with special sealants or made a lock. Ceiling heating in a wooden house is made with a coating with a thickness of mineral wool 14-15 cm with additional ceilings at the corners and joints. Wet and swollen areas are sealed with a patch or rubber-based tapes.

Recently, new methods of heating seams in wooden houses have appeared.

Thus, an effective method of sealing cracks and cracks with acrylic rubber is considered. This tool allows you to significantly reduce the cost of space heating and simply tie - a syringe or a spatula for construction directly to interplanetary seams and cracks.

Where to order the insulation of logs from logs?

If you want to order the insulation of a wooden house in Kazan, and reliability, durability and tightness of the joints are important to you, then it is best to trust this process to experienced specialists.

VKRASKE.COM will always help you to isolate the structure with minimal cost, beautiful and timely. Your home will be warm!

Despite the favorable climate, timber structures require additional insulation, since in the most severe frosts you can spend a lot on electricity. Among modern occupants, a solid wood country house is a luxury. Our ancestors have long been engaged in the construction of such structures. For such a house to be cozy and comfortable to live in, of course, it needs to be competently. To do this, you need to carry out external insulation of wooden walls. As a rule, structures made of such material have many disadvantages. One of them is increased heat loss during the cold season.

This problem does not bypass any tenant, so here it will be discussed how to carry out high-quality insulation of an old wooden house.

Choosing a heater

The main place for heat loss is the roof. More than 40% of all heat from a wooden house leaves this place. In second place are window openings, from where up to 30% of the heat leaves, therefore, it is also necessary to insulate windows in a wooden house. Next are the walls and doors of the wooden structure. The main task of the inhabitants is to patch up all the cracks and holes in the walls. As you know, you need to think about the insulation of a wooden house even in the process of its construction. Otherwise, it will be difficult to make high-quality insulation of the village house. Here are the materials that are best suited to insulate the seams of a wooden house:

jute is an excellent material. It is a versatile insulation material. This name comes from the name of the popular plant "jute". It is made from this plant, having previously processed it. It is the best insulation for wooden exterior walls. The components include lignin, since it does not rot;
ribbon tow is an improved flax fiber, in which the developers have completely eliminated the presence of flax, wood sawdust and plant particles. This material is beneficial to use for sealing large gaps that form in the walls. It is best to insulate an old wooden house from the outside with this material;
Linen felt, which consists of non-woven fibers, is also very popular. It can be obtained after the needle-stitching process using threads of linen material, or other technologies are used.

The thickness directly depends on the construction of the walls of the housing.

If the owners plan to use glued or cylinder beams, then the thickness of the timber with an insulated interlayer will be about 5-10 millimeters.

It all depends on the climate. The walls made of chopped logs will have a thickness of 15 millimeters.

How to properly insulate the walls of a wooden house

In order to obtain greater efficiency, repair work on the insulation of a wooden house should be performed. This may be necessary if the dwelling is located in a cold climate, where low temperatures negatively affect the walls of the house. Insulation of an old wooden house from the outside is a layer of heat-insulating material, which is installed on a special structure made of slats. Insulation work should be carried out after the walls of the housing have shrunk and the warm season has come. Otherwise, the insulation material may be poorly installed. It is also possible for it to peel off from the base of the walls, due to an excessive temperature drop. Therefore, you should carry out the insulation of a wooden house from the inside.

But even this method of insulation is not ideal, therefore, it has several disadvantages:

the walls of the house, which are located in front of the insulation material, are constantly in the area of negative effects of subzero temperatures, as a result of which the wood begins to crack, which will negatively affect the integrity of the entire structure, so it would be nice to insulate the corners of a wooden house;
condensation will form between the log wall, which will entail the appearance of mold;
the area that is suitable for use is significantly reduced, so you need to purchase insulation for wooden walls outside;
the interior of the house is being modified, which by its nature is a unique creation.

The quality of insulation of a structure made of wood is lost due to the lack of an appropriate one. This can happen due to excess moisture in the air, therefore, the insulation of an old wooden house from the outside should be carried out in accordance with all the rules, choosing the best insulation for wooden walls. As a result, drops of moisture will form on the walls inside the dwelling, which will also negatively affect the integrity of the walls.

Due to improper insulation of the outer surfaces of the walls, moisture will get inside the insulation material, which will cause increased moisture in the room.

The material for insulating a wooden floor must also comply with all standards.

In such a tedious process as insulating an old wooden house from the outside, it is best to use a system with a high-quality air gap, which is designed for additional ventilation.

Insulation for wooden walls outside will guarantee comfort in the house. Thanks to this, moisture will linger and not spoil the insulation material.

This structure will keep the walls of the wooden house dry, so they will not crack. Also, thermal protection will remain at a high level if the owners choose high-quality insulation for wooden walls outside. In the absence of such an air gap, the walls will gain moisture, which will cause mold to appear in the house. At the end, you should also insulate the windows in a wooden house.
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Well thought-out and properly designed, wooden houses show excellent indicators of comfort and coziness. However, buildings erected without complying with proper thermal protection and internal heat circulation requirements often require additional measures, so it is important to know how you can insulate a log house from the outside.

What problems arise in wooden houses over time

Any structure is not eternal. Over time, a timber house can reduce its heat retention performance.

There are:

cracking of structural elements;
destruction of the tree due to insect attacks, rot;
cracks due to drying of the material and changes in the geometric dimensions of the wall elements.

It is worth noting that modern projects take into account the impact of time as much as possible and during construction all measures are taken to ensure a long service life of wood. But old houses are fully suffering from the destruction caused by long-term use.
Over time, light drafts, zones of ice on the walls, and irregular air flows from heating zones appear in a wooden house. As a result, the building becomes uncomfortable, especially during the winter months. Heating costs are growing, in addition, if it is improperly designed, it is not possible to defeat the presence of drafts. The best way to regain comfort is to insulate the walls from the outside.

What general actions are required before insulation

To achieve maximum results when using any method of insulation, you need to carry out a number of necessary work. Their list is as follows:

carefully check the outer surface of the walls. Remove from them all materials that impede steam circulation;
if possible, remove areas damaged by rot;
patch up noticeable damage, where necessary - apply patches;
carefully caulk all the cracks;
treat with antibacterial and anti-rotting agents. It is cheap enough to use salt-based formulations.

When choosing a specific heat insulator for the construction of thermal insulation of wooden walls, it should be remembered that it must correspond to its task, namely:

provide vapor permeability not lower than that of a tree;
do not accumulate moisture;
do not serve as a breeding ground for the fungus;
do not burn, let air in;
be loose or pliable enough to adhere to a log wall.

From this list of requirements, it is easy to understand what is not suitable for wooden walls:

foam and extruded polystyrene foam;
polyurethane foam, construction foam;
sealants of any class, if wet facade technology is used.

Ideal to use, especially if ventilated structures are installed:

in the role of sheet materials - ecowool and mineral wool, both classical on the basis of glass, and basalt, slag;
in the role of filling materials that require a frame with an outer wall - special sawdust-granules or expanded clay, ecowool and so on.

By choosing the right materials for creating wall insulation, you can guarantee not only a good level of comfort inside, but also ensure the long service of the walls of the house and the best operating conditions for wooden structures.

Different ways of insulating a wooden house

Let us dwell on the available methods by which you can properly insulate a wooden house. Modern techniques allow you to properly insulate a wooden house and guarantee the desired level of comfort. At the same time, the insulation will last for a long time, and the walls will have a pleasant and neat appearance.

The method of insulating a building from the outside has a number of advantages:

insulation takes over temperature fluctuations, compensates for them. As a result, the walls have a longer service life, since they are less destroyed, are not exposed to significant changes in humidity, temperature, and the degree of mechanical stress is reduced;
the user can choose the type of facade he likes, so insulation can become a form of design;
wall insulation from the outside does not in any way affect the internal space of the house, no repairs are required, the decoration used inside is not limited;
the configuration of the rooms does not change;
while the external wall insulation is being carried out, you can take your time. There are no changes inside the house, the same comfort and coziness remains.

As a result of finishing the external facades, it is possible to significantly change the heat retention rates, ensuring the comfort of living, which is very important for old wooden houses.

Ventilated facade

Modern insulation, capable of providing the best performance in terms of both the level of heat retention, as well as the characteristics of durability and the required appearance, is a ventilated facade system, which is a rather complex, multi-layer structure. Let's consider the creation of such thermal protection in more detail, since it is universal, gives a lot of advantages and therefore is most often used by owners of wooden houses.

The main requirement that must be met when creating a ventilated facade is to ensure correct steam exchange. The insulation should not get wet. Therefore, the first layer creates a vapor barrier, which is located between the insulation and the wall.

For a wooden house built from round logs, vapor barrier is not necessary, as there is sufficient space for air circulation. In buildings with a smooth wall, vapor barrier is necessary, therefore, a thin crate is sewn onto which a plastic film is applied, a reinforced construction option. You can also cover the wall with polyethylene foam, which will additionally retain heat.

The second stage is the stripe of the frame for laying the insulation. This is a structure made of strips, the distance between which must correspond to the dimensions of the used plates of material, the recommended parameter is no more than 600 mm. At the same time, if mineral wool is used, you should immediately remember that it sags over time and therefore the frame should have not only vertical, but also horizontal beams.

After the lathing is sewn, insulation is laid in it, while gaps should not be allowed. If two layers of insulation are used, the elements are arranged so that the joints between the inner ones are in the middle of the outer ones.

Outside, the insulation is covered with a special windproof layer. This is the so-called super-diffusion membrane, a non-woven textile that perfectly permeates steam, but at the same time retains water. The layer is mounted neatly, the joints of the elements are glued with tape.

After installing the windscreen, a frame is sewn onto which the external trim of the ventilated facade will be attached. These are slats of small thickness, 40-50 mm. Immediately, we note that there are many options for creating external finishes, some of which put forward requirements for the insulation used and the methods of installing the internal "layers" of the ventilated facade. The article discusses only simple types of exterior finishes available to the average performer.
Various decorative shields or materials can be sewn onto the outer frame. This could be:

vinyl siding that looks like a wooden board;
cement particle boards;
steel corrugated board;
house block, with which you can simulate the appearance of a wall made of logs.

In the simplest and most economical version, euro lining, plastic lining can also be used. It all depends on the financial capabilities of the owner of the house or his work skills.

External insulation by the "wet facade" method

Quite often, a method is used when walls are insulated by attaching a layer of thermal insulator to its surface. The outer part is finished using the wet facade technology, as a result, the insulation consists of the following elements:

a layer of insulation that can be glued or mounted with dowels;
reinforcing mesh;
several layers of coating, usually formed from ready-made building mixtures.

If you carry out such wall insulation professionally, you need to ensure the quality of the outer coating. Therefore, it will consist of a reinforcing layer, an intermediate layer, which will provide a smooth, durable surface, as well as a decorative layer, which can be an embossed finish or a “fur coat” -type coating that improves heat retention performance.
Tile, decorative stone, artistic plaster, paint and other materials can be used as a finishing layer of external insulation to ensure the desired appearance of the wall surface.

Conclusion

As you can see, even the most modern methods of insulation, which show excellent results, are not so difficult even for do-it-yourself work. However, it should be remembered that when creating any class of finishing, it is necessary not to forget about the ventilation of the house and the finishing of window zones, since there is an inevitable thickening of the walls of a wooden structure.

How to insulate a room? For example, an old wooden house? When is it required? These questions are of concern to many owners of such structures. Additional insulation is required when the walls of a building are not able to properly retain heat inside.

It is the layer of insulating material that is able to reliably protect the walls, extending their resource, from ultraviolet radiation and moisture, and also act as a barrier between warm air from inside the house and cold outside.

Surface preparation for insulation

During preparation, it is often necessary to remove all the plaster or old insulating material to the ground, so that in the end a clean and even wall of wood, blocks or bricks remains.

Expanded polystyrene. Click on the photo to enlarge.

Warming a wooden house, when all work is done by hand, implies a high-quality surface primer, for which a composition with deep penetration is used. If there are drops in the level (pits or bumps), they must be combed off, or covered with a solution. Before work, dust is removed from the wall surface.

A complex of plumb lines and lighthouses is created in advance, which in the future will allow you to evenly lay the insulation by determining its outer edge. So the layer of material will not interfere during the complex of finishing and facing works.

This is done by screwing in screws from the top of the wall. Threads with sinkers are tied to them and lowered. Horizontal lines are made similarly. They form a control grid for high-quality installation of insulation.
This is followed by a stage, the specifics of which depends on the type of material. For example, consider the option with expanded polystyrene.

Work with expanded polystyrene or extruded polystyrene foam

Thermal insulation of a wooden house with this material implies a certain sequence of work. First, a control corner is mounted along the bottom edge, by means of which the laid sheets are aligned. Expanded polystyrene is fixed on a special glue by pressing the sheets against the wall. The control grid will not allow you to make mistakes.

The second layer is fixed in the same way, but offset to the side by half of the sheet. Fixation is carried out with anchors, which are hammered in the center of the sheet and at its corners. As for the window openings and wall corners, a metal corner is used at these points for fixing the plates. For gluing the seams between the sheets, a reinforcing tape is used.

Further, extruded or ordinary polystyrene foam is covered with a reinforcing mesh, after which it is plastered. This material is optimal for insulation of concrete or brick walls. The only drawback is the low vapor permeability rates. And this will not allow condensation to be removed from the surface of the walls of the old house. To solve the problem, it is recommended to thoroughly dry the walls before starting work, and upon completion - to mount a ventilated facade.
The procedure for insulating various structures of a wooden house requires that at the end of this stage there is no access to the laid foam and rodents cannot spoil it.

Internal work

At the moment, there are different ways of performing work, which depend on the materials used.

Warm seam

This scheme allows you to significantly reduce the thermal conductivity of the joints of the walls and seams. It is used when wall decoration with decorating type plasters is not planned.

Laying is carried out directly between the beams of the structure using natural (linen rope, flax or tow) or synthetic (latex, acrylic, bitumen-rubber, silicone) sealants.

Mineral wool work

For insulation, mats made of glass wool, basalt (mineral) fiber or slag fiber are used. This material has excellent indicators of thermal insulation qualities, noise absorption and environmental friendliness. The problem is that it has a fibrous structure, and this contributes to the accumulation of water in it. As a result, it is imperative to lay layers of hydro and vapor barrier on the walls of the old house.

Work progress:

Preparation. This method initially implies the filling of all defects, crevices and cracks, using a synthetic sealant. Further, the surface is treated with an antiseptic composition.

Lathing. This method of insulating structures, in particular, a wooden house, implies the need to install the lathing. First, a transverse lathing is fixed, which is stuffed from a metal profile across the logs and in compliance with a step of 80 cm. The frame of the counter-lattice is created in the same way with the same step, but already along the logs. The design has the function of providing ventilation, removing excess steam and preventing condensation.

It is advisable to use mineral wool in mats, because this structure of the material makes it possible for it to maintain thermal insulation properties even under heavy loads of a mechanical nature. The mats lie flat between the elements of the sheathing with a maximum permissible joint width of 2 mm, which are subsequently sealed with special tape.

Vapor barrier. To prevent its rupture due to thermal expansion of the mineral wool, the vapor barrier is laid with an allowance and overlap - this method is optimal.

Finishing. For this, drywall, chipboard, lining or fiberboard are used. They are fixed directly to the profile or logs, and the thickness of the seams should be minimal.

The sequence of operations must be followed strictly.

Insulation of the ceiling with sawdust

Materials:

Prepared composition for insulation. Click on the photo to enlarge.

cement;
sawdust;
glassine - you can use another insulator. It spreads over the entire ceiling area with a slight allowance for side folds.

For work, a sawdust-cement mixture is used. The required amount of sawdust is calculated based on the optimal thickness of the warm ceiling in a wooden structure - twenty centimeters. To obtain the total cubic capacity, it is necessary to measure the surface area and divide by five. The ratio of cement to water is 1 to 10, and the ratio of water to sawdust is 1.5 to 10.
The insulation scheme, intended for a wooden house, presents certain criteria for shavings:

age - from 1 year;
dryness;
size - too small will not work, since more cement will be required, which will worsen the performance of the composition;
the sawdust should not give off a moldy smell.

Laying technique of the composition

Work order:

do-it-yourself processing of all wooden components with an antiseptic;
laying sheet waterproofing on all floors between floors;
kneading the mixture in the indicated proportions;
uniform laying of the solution on the floor;
tamping of the heat-insulating layer.

Floor work

Warming an old structure, in particular a wooden house, may require replacing the logs, as well as altering the rough floorboards, but not always.

Installation lag

If any of the fundamental beams is seriously damaged, it must be replaced. It will take a lot of time - at least a day.

Since the logs are filled with concrete, the damaged timber will have to be cut out of the concrete. Next, you need to expand the landing hole so that you can install a new log with a section similar to that of the other beams.

The seat for the timber is prepared using a roofing paper wrap or resin, and the lag is pre-treated with an antiseptic compound. At the end of the replacement, it is required to fix the timber in the mounting socket with gravel, inspect the level and concreted with a solution of cement and gravel. Then it remains only to wait for the mixture to solidify. This method will give the maximum effect.

Installation of the subfloor

Thermal insulation of a wooden house implies the creation of a subfloor. Initially, a lathing is attached to the lag screw, which is created from beams with a cross section of 50x50 mm and stuffed in parallel. This is followed by the filling of the subfloor boards with a minimum thickness of 20 mm and a width of 200 mm. The fixation takes place by means of simple nails, but so that they do not "enter" the lags. The boards should be of the same thickness so that there are no distortions in the coating, while the gaps between them are allowed up to 1 cm in size.

Warming of the seams of the subfloor of a wooden house is carried out with a heat insulator.
All wooden elements (logs, lathing, etc.) are recommended to be treated with special antiseptic compounds, as well as fire retardants. These funds ("Senezh", "Pinoteks", "Finesta") are not too expensive, so you should not save on their purchase.

Laying waterproofing

In the process of insulating wooden houses, it is necessary to use only a membrane film that does not allow moisture to "upward". During installation, it is required to leave 10-15 m from each edge for smell, and then glue everything with adhesive tape with moisture-resistant characteristics.

Finishing lags

These beams with a section of 50x150 mm or 75x150 mm (for rooms where heavy furniture will stand) are mounted in 1 meter increments. Naturally, the 150 mm width limits the parameters of the insulation. Therefore, if you plan to lay a thicker layer of material, the thickness of the lag should be greater.

Before installing new logs, it is required to mark the location of the rough ones by making notes on the floor. The fixation of the finishing lags is carried out with long screws and a screwdriver in such a way that the screws go into the lower lags. A gap of 2-4 cm is required between the finishing beams and the wall.

Insulation laying and installation of the finished floor

Insulation (mineral wool, penoplex, polystyrene, etc.) is laid directly on the membrane waterproofing, in the gap between the logs. A combined method is allowed, but the insulation of the seams carried out in a wooden house must be implemented without fail. No additional fixation is required, you just need to make sure that the material does not come out and completely cover the entire space between the beams.

For stuffing the finished floor, both new and old boards are used, and screws or nails act as fasteners. Different materials are used:

floorboards (studded, milled or grooved);
massive board;
laminate;
Fiberboard and others.

Owners of new houses, including wooden ones, think about keeping heat even at the design stage. But buildings with a long service life simply need to be insulated and the facade updated. Therefore, this question always remains relevant.

Wood is a short-lived material; even the toughest tree species cannot boast a long service life. Constant exposure to moisture, temperature fluctuations and other negative factors lead to:

violation of the integrity of the structure;
the appearance of drafts in the premises;
loss of visual appeal;
distortion of the supporting structure as a result of material decay.

After the appearance of such shortcomings, it is not comfortable to be in the rooms of the old house, especially during the winter periods, since it is necessary to spend a lot of energy to create a warm microclimate. In some cases, it is simply impossible to get rid of drafts. This is due to mistakes made at the design stage.

Modern technologies of construction and processing of materials make it possible to process logs with antibacterial and moisture-repellent impregnations. Such actions can extend the life of the wood.

What actions are required before thermal insulation?

Before proceeding directly to the installation of a heat insulator, a number of actions are performed that will suspend or slow down the process of wood destruction, as well as reduce heat loss. To do this, do the following:

Examine the outer walls carefully.
Remove rotten areas.
Close up deep flaws on the log with patches.
The cracks between the details of the wall are caulked.
The prepared base is treated with antiseptic solutions.

It will be useful to cover the wood with antiseptic compounds that resist the development of fungus and mold. Some also protect against insects. Such measures will help maintain the strength of the supporting structure for much longer.

Basic requirements for a heat insulator

When choosing an insulating material, they pay attention to the following nuances:

The vapor permeability coefficient is the same as wood or higher. Wood perfectly permeates steam so that moisture does not accumulate in the insulation, it must have the same characteristics.
Inert to the development of fungus and mold.
Fire safety. Wood is highly flammable and burns quickly. Such structures always have a risk of fire, therefore it is better to select a heat insulator that burns poorly or does not support combustion.
Plasticity and flexibility. For a high-quality arrangement of thermal insulation, the material is tightly attached to the outer wall. Since a log house does not differ in an ideal plane, the appropriate insulation is selected.
It is important that the heat insulator does not accumulate moisture.

If you choose a material according to such criteria, then the created insulation system will last a long time and help reduce heating costs.

What materials can you use?

Having studied all of the above criteria, it becomes clear that the following are suitable for insulating a structure from a log house:

Mineral wool - any kind will do (glass, basalt or stone mineral wool). The material does not burn and does not rot. Mold also does not settle on the surface of this insulation. The main thing is to adhere to safety rules in the process of doing work with your own hands.
Ecowool - the material creates a single layer and at the same time closes all irregularities, therefore it is excellent for insulating a wooden house. In addition, it is environmentally friendly, since it is created from waste paper.
Bulk insulation - they were used by our ancestors. These include expanded clay, sawdust, slag. For thermal insulation of vertical surfaces, it is necessary to build an additional wall, which, together with the supporting structure, forms a cavity where the material is placed.

polyurethane foam;
polystyrene and expanded polystyrene;
penoplex;
polyurethane foam;
various kinds of sealants.

These materials do not have the necessary characteristics that are important for the insulation of a wooden house. From a breathable construction, they create something like a greenhouse. It becomes warm in the rooms, but at the same time moisture accumulates and the air stagnates.

How to insulate a log house from the inside?

Internal insulation of residential buildings is extremely rare. This option significantly reduces the usable floor space. But this is not the only drawback.

Installing insulation inside shifts the dew point towards the main structure, which leads to the accumulation of moisture in the wood and its rapid destruction.

It is enough to insulate the floor, roof and ceiling from the inside. This will significantly reduce heat loss and will not lead to negative consequences. Each element of the structure has its own characteristics of installing a heater.

Thermal insulation of roofs and ceilings

Any work inside the house begins to be performed from above. Thus, the treated surfaces are not subject to mechanical damage and stress. Therefore, let's start with the roof.

To begin with, lay a waterproofing membrane. It will protect the insulation from getting wet, precipitation.
Further, the space between the rafters is filled with mineral wool slabs. Make sure that the material lays down tightly, but evenly. The gaps will become cold bridges, as will the protruding areas.
From above, the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film, which will protect the insulator from moisture from the premises.
If the attic is not residential, you can close the mineral wool with OSB boards or plywood. For living rooms, wooden lining or other breathable finishing material is suitable.

Now let's start protecting the ceiling from heat loss. Such insulation is carried out from the attic side.

They start with a vapor barrier membrane, it will cover the insulation from the vapors coming out of the rooms. It is covered with a rough ceiling, that is, boards stuffed onto beams.
The selected material for thermal insulation is laid on top. Make sure that the layer is even and uniform.
They protect the insulation with a plank floor of the attic space. A ventilation gap of 1-1.5 cm is left between the insulating material and the boards.

Thermal insulation of walls

Professionals generally do not recommend insulating the walls of a wooden house from the inside. But if for some reason it is not possible to do it from the outside, then all internal work is carried out strictly according to the instructions. Correct execution of all actions will not reduce the technical characteristics of the wood.

Check the crowns of the log house. If it is necessary to update or add material that was used for caulking.
Treat the walls with antiseptic impregnations and fire retardants (substances that protect against fire).
A frame is made of wooden blocks treated with the same protective compounds.
On the frame, we fix the lining or slab material for the inner wall cladding.
Mineral or ecowool is chosen as insulation. Heat insulator plates are laid on the wall, protected with membranes from both sides up to the sheathing. The cavity is filled with ecowool as the wall is sewn up.

At the last stage, the treated surfaces are decorated. The lining is polished and covered with paints and varnishes. Plates are putty, rubbed, pasted over with wallpaper or painted.

Floor

To protect your home from the cold, the floor is also insulated. To do this, perform the following list of actions:

Thorough requirement of the soil inside the foundation.
Laying sand or a mixture of sand and gravel with a thickness of 20-40 cm.
Compaction of bedding.
Arrangement of waterproofing. A special membrane is covered on the previous layer.
Another layer of backfill insulation is gravel or perlite. The thickness is from 40 cm. The material does not reach the upper edge of the log by 2-3 cm.
A layer of waterproofing film.

Be sure to leave free areas of the log so that the wood can freely pass air.

How to properly insulate from the outside?

External insulation of a house is much better than internal insulation. Thus, moisture that has penetrated into the material from the interior will quickly come out and be vented out. To do everything right, it is better to hire a professional team, but you can do everything yourself.

To begin with, prepare the base:

Hanging structures are removed.
Removes dirt and stains.
They clean the rotten areas, apply a patch if necessary.
Cover the walls with protective compounds.

Caulking log walls

Next, the joints of the logs are processed. In these places, gaps most often appear after long-term operation of buildings. This is due to the fact that the material dries out and shrinks. To close such gaps, use:

tow;
jgut;
roll insulation;
hemp;

These are natural materials that tightly fill the formed gaps, but at the same time do not reduce the vapor transmission capacity of the wood. Insulation is placed on the log in the place where the gap appears and pushed in with caulking - a special sharpened tool.

Ventilated facade construction

One of the options for external thermal insulation of a log house is the arrangement of a ventilated facade. This design allows air to circulate freely between the decorative layer and the insulation material, removing excess moisture. At the same time, the insulation remains dry and retains its functions longer.

To make a ventilated facade, follow this plan:

Laying waterproofing.
Installation of the frame. To do this, use a wooden bar measuring 20 * 20 or 40 * 40 mm. The elements are fixed vertically or horizontally, depending on what kind of facing material will be used in the future. The distance between the bars is slightly less than the width of the insulation.
In the cavity between the bars and the wall of the log house, tape insulation (basalt or jgut) is pushed.
Thermal insulator laying. Pay attention to how tightly the material fills the gaps between the bars.
From above it is necessary to protect the insulation with a waterproofing membrane. It is fixed with a counter lattice. She will form a ventilated gap.
Next, they start decorating the facade. For this, siding, a wooden block house, facade tiles and other materials intended for installation on a frame are suitable.

Wet facade method

If outwardly the building has completely lost its attractiveness, you can use the "wet facade" option. To do this, a heater is fixed on the wall, and then covered with plaster. This method of insulation consists of a number of actions:

Arrangement of waterproofing.
Insulation fixation. If the walls are even, you can use special adhesives for outdoor use. For made of rounded timber, it is better to fix the material with mechanical fasteners.
Securing the reinforcing mesh. To do this, use a plaster solution. It is applied with a layer of no more than 5 mm and glass fiber is applied. With a wide spatula, the mesh is smoothed so that it sinks into the solution. In places where the reinforcing material is visible, add more mortar.
When this layer dries, another leveling is applied, which will hide minor imperfections.
Further, you can use decorative plasters that form a certain pattern, or paint the finished base with facade paint that allows steam to pass through well.

Installation of thermal panels

Some people prefer to use thermal panels for a log house. This option immediately insulates the walls and makes them attractive. They are installed as follows:

Fastening wooden blocks as lathing. The distance between the elements is calculated so that one panel rests on 3 bars.
Fixation of thermal panels using self-tapping screws or dowels.
Sealing joints. At the time of purchase, choose a composition that is suitable for outdoor use.

Be sure to leave openings under the cladding for free air penetration when grouting to help remove excess moisture.

Further measures for the protection of the log house

After the wooden house is insulated and finished, you should not leave it unattended for a long time. At least once a year, the skin is checked for integrity, and the dirt is cleaned. If there are imperfections on the decorative surface from mechanical stress, then you should check if the insulation and waterproofing are not damaged.

In principle, further measures will depend on the chosen decorative material. If it was a wooden block house, then it must be covered with protective compounds. For siding, there are no special requirements.

Plaster requires more complex maintenance. Cracks need to be repaired in time. If the color has lost its attractiveness and brightness, the surface is re-painted.

The cost of finishing materials

All works on insulation and require large investments. The cost depends on:

The volume of work performed.
The condition of the outer walls.
Insulation type.
The qualities of waterproofing membranes.
A kind of decorative material.
Additional fasteners.
The work is carried out independently or by a professional team.

Therefore, before proceeding with the insulation of the facade, they calculate the approximate cost with a margin and compare it with the available budget. Having made calculations in advance, you can be sure that the work will not stop halfway, for lack of funds.

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