Among the variety of modern building materials, there are undoubted bestsellers that are used everywhere, are versatile and are very popular with builders. Drywall is a well-deserved leader in wall decoration, it is affordable and easy to use. Having studied in detail the properties and technical characteristics of this wonderful material, as well as observing the technology, you can make repairs using drywall with your own hands without involving expensive specialists and reduce costs by choosing the best option for the price, because there are several ways to properly fix drywall to the wall.

Pros and cons of using drywall for repairs

A gypsum panel, glued on both sides with thick cardboard, has amazing strength for soft crumbling gypsum, it can be cut, sawn, planed. Drywall is indispensable for leveling walls and ceilings, erecting partitions, arches, architectural structures of complex shape.

Walls with shaped niches and multi-level ceilings, columns and openings are easily constructed using GC

Repair using GKL has several advantages:

• perfectly smooth walls, the smooth surface of which is ready for painting or other finishing, including any kind of wallpaper and tiles;
• low weight does not create a load on the wall and frame, has sufficient strength;
• does not support combustion, there are refractory GKLO models;
• convenient standard sheet sizes, different thickness depending on construction tasks and affordable price;
• ease of processing, cutting and installation, perfectly holds fasteners;
• ample opportunities for the realization of creative ideas and the most daring design ideas;
• environmental safety allows you to sheathe walls even in children's rooms;
• under the panels you can hide communications and insulation;

The disadvantages of using the material include:

• eats up some room space, not suitable for small areas;
• afraid of getting wet, for use in conditions of high humidity, waterproof types are produced with the GKLV marking;
• breaks, crumbles when bent, so it requires caution in work.

There are two ways to install drywall on a wall - with and without a frame. The second method is considered more difficult. Let's consider both options in detail.

How to properly fix drywall to a wall with a profile

Beautiful complex partitions and smooth surfaces are created on the basis of a special frame made of aluminum or galvanized steel profile. It slightly reduces the space of the room, but hides all the defects and irregularities of the walls, allows you to additionally insulate the room and has high vapor permeability and sound absorption.

Such elements can only be made on the basis of the frame

Necessary materials and tools

To work, you should study the step-by-step instructions, draw a sketch of the room indicating the dimensions and mark the location of the frame and panels, calculate the material consumption and prepare the following tools and materials:

• tape measure, level, ruler, pencil;
• perforator, drill with mixer attachment, screwdriver;
• dowels, self-tapping screws, screws;
• wooden blocks measuring 30x50cm or a galvanized profile to create a frame, suspensions, crabs;
• ordinary and rubber hammer, sickle;
• construction knife for cutting drywall;
• special glue based on cement or gypsum, a clean container for diluting it, a spatula;
• roller, brush and trowel, stepladder;
• putty for grouting seams and fastener caps;
• drywall sheets: for living rooms - GKL, for bathroom and kitchen - GKLV. To calculate the consumption of panels, you need to subtract the area of ​​window and door openings from the total area of ​​​​the walls and add 10-15% for possible waste. The length of the panel should be chosen based on the height of the ceiling, 2.5 m or 3 m, so that the surface is covered with a single sheet.

Preparatory work

GKL sheets can be attached to various types of bases, each has its own technological features. Before installation work, it is necessary to prepare the surface. Here are the main stages of work:

1. Remove the old finish, remove dirt, dust and inspect the walls.
2. For the frame method, leveling the rough base is not required; it must be treated with antiseptic impregnation.
3. Using a tape measure, measure the dimensions of the wall and make markings with an exact indication of the location of the profiles and hangers. The minimum frame thickness is 4.5 cm, a layer of insulation or irregularities on the walls add thickness and mark the corresponding points on the ceiling and on the floor.
   On the wall with a window, the markup should start with it
4. Using a plumb line, draw vertical lines in increments of 60 cm - the places where the racks are attached. suspensions, and the distance from the upper and lower rails to the suspensions should be at least 25 cm.
5. To create a wooden crate, fill the slats with self-tapping screws or nails vertically in increments of 60 cm, placing veneer or plywood linings under them. Such a frame should be impregnated with an antiseptic.
6. Cut the aluminum profile into equal pieces. The guide UD profile is attached to the ceiling and to the floor, as well as to the walls with dowels in increments of 30–40 cm, and the verticality is checked with a plumb line. In order for the plane of the frame to be at the same level, suspensions are used, it is enough to fix each plank at two points.
   All electrical work is carried out before the installation of the frame
7. Strictly according to the markup, fix the carrier profile, connecting the vertical and horizontal strips with special crabs. If necessary, it is possible to strengthen the structure with the help of horizontal jumpers from the CD profile.
   The walls are finished one by one - after installing the sheets of the Civil Code on one wall, they move to another

Fixing sheets GKL

Now you can proceed to the sheathing of the frame with plasterboard panels. It is done like this:

1. The first solid panel is fixed close to the wall with two screws and its position is adjusted. Then, every 30 cm, screws are screwed in. So that the hats do not stick out and the panels do not crack, it is necessary to step back 1.5 cm from the edge and drown the screw by 1.5 mm. A gap of 12 mm from the floor after installation must be puttied.
   The edge of the sheet must lie exactly in the middle of the rack profile.
2. A number of solid sheets are fastened end-to-end from the floor to the ceiling, cut pieces are used above the door and window openings, and the remaining sections are sewn up with them.
   The main thing is to understand the principle of work
3. Putty all seams, self-tapping screws, chips. A reinforcing mesh or tape is glued to the seams. Then the surface of the sheets is primed. For better adhesion when applying a finish.
   Priming is necessary for better adhesion when applying the finish.

To properly cut a sheet of the Civil Code, you need to draw a construction knife along the marking line, then break the panel, opening the ends, and cut off a layer of cardboard from the back side.

How to fix GKL without a profile

The second installation method is suitable for various materials of the rough base and for small or dark rooms, if the walls are relatively even and regular in shape, then landing the GKL on glue will be a good solution. A glued wall will last at least 15 years. There are limitations for the frameless method:

• it is not recommended to mount the GKL on constantly damp surfaces, where moisture penetrates from a foundation with poor-quality waterproofing or seeps from a leaky roof;
• if the thickness of the walls of the building is calculated incorrectly, then condensation forms on the inside, drywall in this case is attached only to the frame;
• if the differences on uneven walls are more than 40 mm.

Mounting features

The frameless method of fixing is simpler and faster, but it requires more careful preparation of the rough base. The consumption of sheets will be equal in both cases, and the consumption of the adhesive composition depends on the unevenness of the walls. With differences over 40 mm, the frame method is used. Let us consider in detail the intricacies of attaching GKL to the most popular base materials.

To a wooden surface

Wooden surfaces are usually even, drops and protrusions can be corrected with a planer, and hollows can be filled with thin planks. The problem of rotting and burning wood is easily solved by treating it with an antiseptic and flame retardant.

Experienced builders recommend fixing drywall to wooden walls without using glue with self-tapping screws or screws. They are screwed in with a screwdriver without recessing in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other. The caps are manually carefully sunk into the surface by 1.5 mm and puttied.

Sheets are easier to attach to a wooden surface than to others.

To the concrete wall

Concrete is porous and highly absorbent. To reduce glue consumption, primer treatment is necessary, which will increase adhesion and fill pores and microcracks.

As an adhesive composition, a starting putty mixed with PVA glue or gypsum in a ratio of 1:10 or a special dry glue for working with plasterboard is used. You will also need dowels 80–120 mm long. To dilute the glue, first pour water into the container, dilute the PVA glue in it, and then pour in the dry powder and stir with a mixer.

If the wall is relatively flat:

To the brick wall

Brickwork has unevenness and brittleness, which add complexity to the work. In this case, it is advisable to fix drywall on hardware 6x80 mm, 8x10 mm or driven dowels with a length of at least 80 mm and glue.

For novice specialists, a method of setting beacons from pieces of the same drywall is suitable, which will act as a frame and help to accurately align the plane of the sheet.

Liquid nails and polyurethane foam are also used as an adhesive composition. Beacons can be cakes of thick glue, they are applied in 40 cm increments. When pressing the sheet and knocking it out with a rubber mallet, they themselves will take the required size and be distributed in the cavity.

In some cases, mounting foam is used instead of glue.

To the wall of the foam block

To finely level the foam concrete, it is enough to remove small irregularities using a perforator with a chisel nozzle. Gypsum is processed in the same way.

The fastening technology is similar to fixing on a wooden wall. Antiseptic impregnation will protect the base from biological damage, and the sheets should be kept indoors for at least a day to stabilize the temperature and humidity conditions. According to the GKL markup, attach it to the wall, first fix it at diagonal corners, set it strictly vertically, and then screw in hardware 3.9x45 mm in a checkerboard pattern in increments of 30 cm.

The cost of a frameless mounting method is 60% less than using a profile, and a flat wall will save time and effort

First, you should carefully inspect the wall and identify defects that will prevent a snug fit and secure fixation of the sheets, and then take the following steps:

1. Knock down layers of plaster and old finishes, otherwise, under the weight of drywall, the plaster may fall off during operation and you will have to redo the entire repair. Then clean the surface of dust and dirt with a brush and a damp cloth.
   The wall should be thoroughly cleaned. Instead of putty, a cement-sand mortar can also be used.
2. Mark the wall according to the drawing or sketch. From the floor and ceiling, it is necessary to leave a damper gap of 5–10 mm. This will provide air access for ventilation and solidification of the glue, as well as protect the GKL sheets from warping during temperature and humidity fluctuations, mark the attachment points with self-tapping screws.
   The red dotted lines show how sheets cannot be divided.

How to fix drywall

Now you can proceed with the installation of the GKL:

The frameless method saves money and time, while the frame method allows you to create fancy architectural forms. In both cases, you will get perfectly even and smooth walls, ready for finishing, which last for many years and do not require special care.

Wall cladding with drywall is a practical and common way inside apartments and houses. GKL allows you to align walls and ceilings. A common method is when sheets are mounted on a frame made of wooden slats or metal profiles. If you need to save money or time, the question arises: is it possible to attach drywall directly to the wall? Yes, there are cases when the crate can be omitted. Alignment of walls with drywall without a frame is performed on almost even bases of various types. The photo below shows a room with plasterboard walls and ceilings.

Benefit from frameless installation

Fastening drywall to a wall without a profile is the best option for flat surfaces. An important role is played by the degree of deviation from the plane. The frameless method of wall cladding is applicable if the differences do not exceed 5 cm. When they are larger, a crate is often installed.

Drywall is fixed on uneven planes using beacons. Thanks to this, the installation of sheets occurs immediately on the level. Without beacons, you can mount it, having a lot of experience, or in small areas.

You can control the degree of curvature of the base using the building level and a long rule.

Existing to the wall without a profile allow you to mount it on different types of surfaces. It is possible to fasten sheets:

• to a brick wall;
• on partitions made of porous concrete, monolith, panels, limestone, shell rock, cinder block and plastered;

Gluing sheets on a foam concrete base is shown in the photo above.

Finishing walls with drywall without a frame and a profile is beneficial for the following reasons:

• this method of finishing reduces the cost of material for the crate;
• money is also saved on its installation (if it was planned to involve a specialist);
• the volume of the room practically does not decrease;
• the terms of facing works are reduced, and the process itself is simplified.

The following requirements are imposed on surfaces that are planned to be sewn up with plasterboard sheets:

• the base must be strong, smooth, without significant defects and fungus;
• it is required that the wall surface be protected from moisture.

If the sticking method is used, then it is recommended to remove old paint, contaminants (dust, oil stains).

A big plus of finishing the walls with drywall without a frame with your own hands is that the process is faster and easier than if you need to pre-create the crate.

Preparatory activities

Before you fix this material to the wall without profiles, you should decide to prepare the required tools. Everything you need for different installation methods is presented in the table below.

Some of the tools and materials are used only for certain methods of installing GKL.

The photo above shows a bag of gypsum glue used for drywall to glue it on.

In work, you can not do without a ladder, or other device for working at height.

Installation of drywall on walls without a frame requires compliance with a number of conditions:

• the temperature during work should exceed +10 degrees, therefore, at its lower values, it is necessary to take care of the organization of heating;
• it is necessary that the walls in the repaired room be dry;
• in the presence of high humidity in the rooms, moisture-resistant types of facing material are used;
• before installation, it is recommended that the sheets lie in the room for 3 days;
• the base for the installation of drywall must be integral, not fall apart, otherwise it will need to be pre-strengthened.

The quality of the result directly depends on how well the preparation was carried out. Due to the fact that all the necessary tools and materials will be pre-assembled, you will not need to be distracted during work. Maintaining the required microclimate is a prerequisite during the finishing.

Methods for fixing GKL without installing a frame

In practice, several methods are used on how to level walls with drywall without a frame. They differ in the materials used for this and the technology of work. Using the frameless method allows you to sheathe the walls or ceilings of rooms and offices, directly fixing the sheets on their surface.

In practice, 2 options are used on how to fix drywall without mounting the crate. However, different materials are used. Here's how you can attach sheets:

• self-tapping screws (for wood), or dowels;
• glue, "liquid nails", polyurethane foam.

The photo above shows the application of mounting foam to the sheet, in order to then fix it on the wall.

The general scheme of work for any installation method:

• prepare the base;
• fix drywall;
• close up the joints.

Additional strengthening measures are not required. Installation methods can be combined with each other. So, the glued lining can additionally be fixed with self-tapping screws or dowels.

Depending on the variant of the subsequent cladding, the surface can be further puttied, and then sanded and primed.

The choice of one or another option is determined both by personal preferences, and evenness and the material from which the partitions are built. So, drywall to a concrete wall (smooth) is glued or fixed with dowels. The leveled wooden surface is sheathed using self-tapping screws.

Fixing method with self-tapping screws, dowels

Without a frame, using self-tapping screws, it is possible if there is a base made of a suitable material for this: wood, foam concrete or gypsum. The workflow consists of the following steps:

• existing protrusions are removed: wooden partitions are leveled by hewing them with an ax or a chisel with a hammer, and walls made of foam concrete (gypsum) with a puncher with an inserted chisel;
• fix plasterboard sheets in increments of 25-35 cm, using a checkerboard pattern of their location on the surface of the base, with hardware 3.9x25 mm or 3.9x35 mm long (on a flat wooden surface) and 3.9x45 mm (on aerated concrete, gypsum).

After tightening with a screwdriver, the head of the self-tapping screw should be slightly “drowned” in the facing.

The photo below shows the process of fixing a plasterboard fragment on a wooden ceiling.

It should be borne in mind that a strong tightening of the hardware at the locations of the depressions causes deformation of the material. To avoid this, the sheets fall short, leaving a slight gap between them and the surface. The strength of the structure being created will not decrease.

When it is impossible to screw self-tapping screws into the wall (the base is made of concrete, brick, cinder block), then they are performed without a profile, using driven dowels for installation. Their length with non-plastered surfaces should be 6x40 mm or 6x60 mm. If the thickness of the cladding layer exceeds 2 cm, then hardware 6x80 or 8x100 mm is used.

The technology consists of the following operations:

• using a puncher or a hammer with a chisel, level the base, removing defective areas;
• when the sheet is installed, then a hole is drilled through it;
• insert the plastic part;
• clog or twist a metal core, placing a washer under the hat;
• thus, they sheathe the entire room, cutting the sheets if necessary.

The substrate for the head of the metal core can be made from a U-shaped fastening for the profile. To do this, it is cut into plates with metal scissors.

In places of depressions, the core is not finished off so that the sheet does not concave.

When all the sheets are attached, then proceed to sealing the seams. With even base surfaces, the use of hardware allows you to quickly sheathe a room or office space.

Gluing technology

To level the walls with drywall for glue, in addition to gypsum compositions, mounting foam and "liquid nails" are usually used. Home-made solutions are also used, for example, based on putty and PVA. At the same time, the techniques for applying the compositions to the surface of the installed material differ.

Before you start attaching drywall to the wall, you should prepare it in a special way. The process consists of the following steps:

• the working area is cleaned of old finishes (paint, wallpaper, defective plaster);
• close up cracks;
• apply two layers of primer;
• dowels are hammered in the corners (self-tapping screws are screwed in);
• using a plumb line or level, pull threads (thin ropes) between them;
• in a selected square lying at an angle of 90 ° relative to the floor, surface irregularities are considered;
• if deviations of more than 2 cm are detected, a substrate is prepared from fragments from the material to be installed (a sufficient width of the pieces is 10 cm);
• make markings for fixed drywall sheets on a wall without a frame.

When sketching the location of the fragments, the gaps between the edges of the plasterboard and the floor (0.7-1 cm), the ceiling (0.3-0.5 mm) are taken into account. Open areas (output of communications) are also taken into account when marking.

It is convenient to use a laser level for marking.

To attach drywall to a wall without a profile with deviations of more than 2 cm, it is recommended to install beacons. To do this, proceed as follows:

• stretch the thread horizontally in increments of 50 cm;
• under them (also after half a meter) glue beacons are applied;
• control the thread level;
• allow the beacons to dry before attaching the drywall to the unframed walls.

In the role of beacons, you can also use strips of gypsum board with a length along the height of the room, glued vertically every 50 cm. In addition to guiding functions, they serve as stops for leaning plasterboards.

The figure below shows the options for aligning walls of various curvature with plasterboard when it is mounted on glue.

• waiting for the primer to dry completely;
• apply a fragmentary adhesive mass (2 cm higher than the gap between the back side of the GCR and the base surface) at a distance of about 40 cm from each other over the entire surface of the sheet;
• in the same way, cover the base with the composition;
• press the plasterboard fragment against the wall;
• knock it out with a rubber mallet so that it leans against the beacons.

Installation of GKL on adhesive compositions is considered a more complicated and painstaking method, compared with fixing with dowels (self-tapping screws). It is recommended to use deep penetration primers with antiseptic properties for surface treatment before gluing.

The use of mounting adhesive to fix drywall is demonstrated in the video below.

Installation using mounting foam is shown in the following video.

The use of frameless methods allows you to both level the wall with drywall without a profile, and save money on work and material. The savings figure can reach almost 60% compared to the frame version. Sheets fixed according to the selected technology will hold securely. At the same time, work on your own is easier and faster (especially on level ground) than using a crate.

Drywall is an excellent basis for subsequent finishing work. This material allows not only to level the surface of the walls, but also to give the room the desired geometry. To embody design ideas or to sheathe a surface with a complex configuration - all this can be done using drywall. You can safely , wall, .

Asking the question: how to fix drywall to the wall, you should choose one of two methods of fastening. One of them involves the formation of frame structures for the subsequent installation of drywall on them. The second method allows you to solve this problem by attaching sheets of material directly to the wall using adhesives.

Fixing drywall to walls

• Frame fastening method

Before you fix the drywall to the wall, this method requires the formation and installation of special structures. Advantages of the wireframe method:

• the ability to create curly structures;
• the possibility of laying communications (wiring, heating systems, pipes) under drywall;
• the possibility of forming a layer of heat or sound insulation between drywall and the wall.

The materials used to form the frame are metal or wooden profiles. The first option is used more often. This is due to the greater reliability of the metal and the lack of a tendency to deformation.

Wooden bars, deforming under the influence of moisture and temperature changes, can cause deformation of sheets of material.

• How to install a wooden frame

Before the drywall is attached to the wall, the horizontal guides of the frame are strengthened. The wall with the element is connected with dowels. Then vertical bars are attached every 60 cm.

Further, it is on the horizontal guides that the sheets will be attached. Some cases involve the installation of only vertical bars. Installation of drywall occurs directly on them using wood screws.

• How to install a metal frame for plasterboard

This method is implemented somewhat more complicated.

• First you need to mark the wall, which serves as a guide. Having set the marks on the floor and on the ceiling, with an indent from the wall of about 4 cm, pull the rope between them, checking its horizontalness with a building level.
• Followed by fix the U-shaped guides based on these labels.
• After that, install the same profiles on vertical walls.
• The frame is fixed to the wall with dowels. in compliance with the step 30-40 cm. Proper marking ensures the future result in the form of a perfectly flat wall.
• The next step is to fix the vertical guides. They are mounted to the U-shaped profiles with small self-tapping screws. The distance between the guides is 60 cm.

When there is a need to give the frame more strength, you need to make an additional fastening of the profiles to the wall. Depending on the height of the walls of the room, brackets are fixed in one or two places with dowels. After that, the moving parts of the brackets are bent at a right angle and screwed to the vertical guides using self-tapping screws. In addition, the structure can be strengthened with horizontal jumpers from the CD profile.

Video - How to sheathe walls with drywall with your own hands

In accordance with this sequence, the frames are fastened to all walls of the room. It is important that the horizontal and vertical guides are at right angles.

After the construction of the frame structure, laying drywall sheets should begin.

• Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws for metal, laying the sheets end-to-end.
• Self-tapping screws are installed so as to penetrate into the surface by no more than 2-3 mm.
• Some builders use an auxiliary tool - a nozzle for tightening screws, which makes it possible to control the depth of immersion of the fastener. The distance between the fasteners should be 25-30 cm.
• Next, you need to go through the putty on all the bumps, seams and holes from the screws. The seams are closed with reinforcing tape, which protects them from cracks. After completing the putty, you need to cover the wall with a primer. The dried primer is the basis for further application of the finishing material.

Fastening drywall sheets with glue - Video

The implementation of this method is somewhat simpler than the wireframe one, but it has some disadvantages. First of all, the basis for gluing drywall sheets must be even. As a rule, if the walls are not concrete, but, for example, brick, then they have certain irregularities, which can cause difficulties when installing drywall with an adhesive method.

• Having decided which side to glue the drywall with, you need to apply the adhesive solution on the back of the sheet and on the wall. The glue used for this purpose tends to dry quickly, so all work must be done as quickly as possible.
• It is necessary to align the sheet attached to the wall with a level and support it until the glue dries completely.
• Glue must be prepared immediately before pasting. It is important to follow the recommendations regarding the brand, proportions of water and dry mixture when preparing it.

The rest of the sheets are attached in the same way. Puttying and priming occur according to the same technology as with the frame fastening method.

Comparing both methods of attaching drywall to the wall, we can conclude that each of them can be used depending on the specific situation.

It is better to use the frame method if the walls are not even enough and you need to lay any communications or insulating materials under the drywall, as well as if you need to form curly decorative elements.

You can fix drywall with glue if the wall has the most even surface, and also if you don’t want to spend extra centimeters of space on installing a frame structure.

When performing work on fixing drywall, it is important to follow the recommendations regarding leveling the horizontal level of the frame and drywall sheets. The quality and duration of the service of future wall cladding depends on this.

How to attach drywall to a wall without a frame - technologies, materials, features. Recently, drywall has become one of the most sought-after repair materials for houses and apartments. They are even, have a large area and are smooth, which makes it possible to quickly remove the curvature of the walls, as well as prepare the room for further finishing.

In addition, if the sheets are attached to the frame, there will be an additional opportunity to insulate and soundproof the ceiling / walls.

But not in every case it is possible to make a frame, since such a design will “steal” the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe apartment. For this reason, it will be useful for apartment owners who are planning repairs to learn how to finish the walls with drywall without losing usable space in an already cramped room. There are several methods for attaching the GCR, but each of them will require preliminary preparation.

Preparatory work

Each work begins with the fact that you should prepare all the necessary set of tools and buy all the necessary materials.

From the materials you will need:

• LGK. Depending on the room in which the material will be used, you can use ordinary sheets, or you can use moisture-resistant ones, and if you plan to finish the wall near the fireplace or stove, then fire-resistant ones. The number of sheets can be calculated if we take into account the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls in the room, taking into account the fact that approximately 15% of it is occupied by doorways and windows.

The amount of material can be easily and simply calculated using an online calculator.

Surface cleaning and repair of defects

In order for the sheets to adhere well to the wall, and in some remaining gaps between them there was no fungus or mold, the surface should be carefully prepared. Do not neglect such events, as the term of use of the finish and the base will depend on them.

If there is an old plaster layer on the wall that has peeled off in places, then its traces should be at least partially (or better completely) removed, especially at the defect site, as this can reduce the adhesion of materials to each other. If there is a thick layer of “fur coat” plaster on the wall, which consists of 2 or more layers that were applied at different time intervals, it is better to remove it completely, since it can begin to lag behind the base at any time, and drywall sheets will begin to fall off with it . But a thin layer of plaster will not be a problem for sheathing drywall walls without a frame.

1. After the walls are cleaned of the old plaster layer, cracks or even peculiar “shells” can be found on the surface. They should be repaired, as otherwise condensation may form, and this will become a catalyst for the development of mold.
2. First, widen the cracks, and this is required in order for the material in the embedment to better hold inside. Sinks and extended cracks must be cleaned of sand and plaster particles with a soft brush, and then well treated with a primer.
3. To fill cracks, it is better to choose a repair compound that is close to the base material, or one that has high adhesion. If the cracks are large enough and cover more than 50% of the surface, you can repair them with mounting foam.
4. Gaps with a small width can be filled with plastic sealant, which will take the form of a crack both when it narrows and expands.
5. After the primer dries, all defects can be filled more densely with a repair compound and brought into the general plane of the surface. If protruding protrusions are found on the wall, then they should be knocked down or cleaned off to a general level.
6. After that, all walls should be primed with a deep penetration antiseptic.

Which primer is best?

The durability of the coating will depend on the quality of the material that will be applied as a base. It is best to choose trusted manufacturers, or those that are very popular, as the company will not produce poor material for a short-term gain and ruin its reputation.

This material is applied in 1 or 2 layers, both of which must dry well. The process is carried out with a soft roller, and hard-to-reach places and internal corners should be additionally worked out with a brush. The time for complete drying of the primer is indicated on the bottle or pack, and if it should be followed, since the installation of drywall should only be done on a clean, dry wall.

markup

When the walls are worked out with a primer layer and dry, you can start marking. To do this, ideally, you should use a laser level. If there is none, get by in the usual way - with a building level or plumb line, rule, square and tape measure. It will be easiest to use the first option.

1. During marking, deformation gaps should be taken into account, which should remain at the junction of the plasterboard with the ceiling and floor. During shrinkage at home, they will not allow the sheets to be damaged on hard surfaces.
2. The gaps must be between the sheets of material for finishing from 0.3 to 0.5 cm, and the sheet is raised from the floor by 0.8-1 cm. From above, for this, it is necessary to beat off the horizontal control line, and on the floor it will be easier to observe the gaps by placing a piece of plywood of the required thickness under the sheet . Later, when the glue has hardened and the drywall is attached to the wall without a frame, the stands can be removed and the gaps below and above filled with mounting foam.
3. If the GKL does not fully cover the height of the wall, then you will have to beat off two lines - along the height of the whole sheet and along the upper edge of the wall. Such a section will be closed with a cut cloth from a single fragment of the required size. Such elements are capable of additional solid sheets only from above, but most professionals recommend placing them in a checkerboard pattern, namely alternately.
4. The corners in the room are not always even, and for this reason, using a plumb line, you can measure and accurately beat off a vertical line along the junction on two walls. It is required in order to complete the installation and fix the first sheet on it, which should be perfectly level. How it is fixed will depend on evenness.

After that, you can proceed to the study of glue for GKL.

What adhesive composition is better?

The installation of plasterboard sheets on the wall without using a frame structure is carried out on different surfaces according to the degree of evenness. For this reason, different adhesive compositions can be used for work. To do this, we divide them into three conditional groups: installation on even walls, on brick walls and on uneven walls.

Adhesive for flat surfaces

Smooth walls include stone plastered and concrete monolithic surfaces. Naturally, they are not always smooth, but usually serious alignment is not required. It may be necessary to set up beacons or gypsum boards or gypsum mixtures if the surface has a slope to one side. Glue drywall onto a corrected or even wall on any composition - it can be a cement / gypsum-based composition, as well as polymer mastic. But the easiest option is to use mounting foam.

If the surface is smooth and even, you can also use glue, which is made in the form of mastic and is sold in special plastic cartridge tubes, and is also squeezed out with a construction gun or syringe. Gypsum or cement-based formulations are sold dry and require dilution with water prior to application. All proportions are indicated on the package. If you use just such a composition, then before installing the canvas, you should sprinkle it a little with some water.

Features of installation work on brick walls

Align the walls with the help of GKL and those walls that are made of bricks. If the masonry is even and of high quality, then installing the GKL on it will not differ much from fixing it on a flat surface. But still on such a wall there are defects in the form of seams between bricks and drops. So, the glue will be unevenly distributed, and the canvas may not be installed securely.

In this case, the preparation of the brick surface is performed as follows:

1. Determine the vertical wall with a plumb line. If there are differences that are more than 2 cm, a substrate should be made of strips with a width of 10-12 cm. Even strips should be fixed vertically from ceiling to floor or parallel, depending on the location of irregularities. Such trimmings will become figurative beacons in order to fix large canvases.
2. Occasionally, rectangles are used instead of even stripes, and their size is 10 by 15 cm. They need to be glued to the wall at a distance of 15-25 cm from each other, depending on the need.

Any type of adhesive can be used when leveling a brick wall, but a cement/gypsum-based adhesive is the best and most economical option. If you use polymer mastics or foam, then a lot of such material will be required and this does not guarantee that it will be attached securely.

It should also take into account the material from which the bricks are made in the masonry. If it is red brick or foam concrete, then any type of glue can be used, and for cinder blocks and sand-lime bricks, a special approach will be required, since some compositions should be strengthened. Ready mixes in dry form are universal, but this is not always confirmed in practice, and many pros improve them by adding special components. For example, for 10 kg of cement glue, add 500 ml of PVA and 1 kg of gypsum, and for gypsum glue, add only PVA per 10 kg (the same 500 ml). Whatever you choose, you should fix the drywall with dowels "fungi",

Installation on an uneven surface

In this case, glue, which is sold in the form of a dry mix, will help out, since it will take a lot. It is possible to attach drywall to a wall without a frame, if there are large differences, and this method will be like attaching to a brick wall. Only in certain areas, instead of one layer of the substrate, it will be necessary to glue 2-3. This method is time consuming, as each layer in the substrate must dry before another one is glued onto it.

On a curved wall, ultra-reliable fixation of the canvas to the surface with dowels and dense filling of the space between and the wall, in particular along the edges, is required. If you use substrates, they can be mounted on the wall with foam, and for gluing the main canvas, use an adhesive solution created from two different compositions.

GKL installation without a frame

Here are the techniques for applying different glue to sheets, and they differ from each other.

The most popular material is gypsum-based glue. The composition on cement is also often used, but both options are applied to the canvas according to the same principle.

Before installation, the edges at the junction should be cut at a certain angle, namely, chamfered so that a gap appears that will be filled with putty. But keep in mind that it is not necessary to apply the composition to a sheet of material, but you can do it right on the wall. there is no fundamental difference, but in this case the wall must be prepared with a primer.

Synthetic finish

The second installation method is the use of a synthetic composition, and it can be done in two ways:

• Apply mastic or foam to the surface of the GKL.
• Fill the space between the installed and leveled sheet and the wall with foam.

The method using mounting foam is more interesting.

Gluing on mounting foam

This option is used when installing the sheet on a wall that does not require alignment. The foam is applied sparingly to the GKL than the glue from the dry mix. It will be enough just to foam the strips around the entire perimeter of the sheet and diagonally. After the composition is applied, the sheet should be glued immediately. Since the foam has good adhesion to any surface, it will quickly set, and after 24 hours the sheet will already be firmly attached to the wall.

Similarly, all materials are attached to the wall and allowed to dry for a day. If a polyurethane mastic has been used, it should be applied to the sheet in frequent stripes and along the entire edge. Inside the sheet, the glue should be applied in different ways, but so that the lines run at a distance of 15 to 20 cm from each other. In this case, when pressing the sheet, the glue will be evenly distributed (provided that the walls are even). Since all mastics dry for a long time and at different times, pay attention to this when buying.

Bonding and filling voids

This method is the most difficult, but gives excellent results when leveling far from the most even surfaces. Note that for this you can use only foam and in large quantities. The consumption depends on how curved the wall is, i.e. what will be the size of the cavity between the GKL and it. To install the frame to the wall without this method, additional materials will be required.

Before filling, adjust the foam dosage to use the material as economically as possible. This should be done in advance, because gluing will be done blindly.

Seam sealing

When everything is finished, you can perform the sealing of the seams. Prime the joints of the sheets, let dry. In places where the chamfer is cut, the primer is applied several times. After that, carefully apply putty with a spatula, and until it dries, stick a sickle or sealing tape and slightly drown it in the composition. When the seams dry, you can proceed to the final finish.

Drywall firmly occupies the position of one of the most popular building and finishing materials, and this is easily explained by its many advantages. These can be safely attributed to its environmental friendliness, ease of installation, the ability to use in a variety of rooms, a relatively small mass and generally available cost.

Plasterboard sheets are used for leveling walls and for, moreover, working with them is available not only to an experienced builder, but also to a novice master. Finishing walls with drywall without a frame and a profile is possible on different adhesive compositions and on surfaces built from various materials. The advantages of such fastening in comparison with the frame method are that the reduction in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is not so noticeable, a decent amount is saved on the elements of the crate, and the installation work itself takes place quite quickly and can be done on its own.

The main methods of installing drywall on a wall surface

To appreciate the advantage of frameless installation of drywall, you can briefly consider both existing methods by comparing them.

In fairness, it should be noted that sometimes when installing drywall, it is impossible to do without installing a frame, so this case is also worth mentioning when considering how to install the material.

So, there are two main technologies for fixing drywall sheets to the wall in order to level it:

1. Installation of sheets using self-tapping screws on a frame made of a metal profile or a wooden bar. This method is chosen in cases where the wall requires additional thermal or sound insulation, and the insulation material is installed precisely in the frame structure, or if the wall has very large distortions that are difficult to level with plaster layers.
2. Fixing sheets on the wall with self-tapping screws and mounting foam or on a gypsum-based adhesive. Self-tapping screws and foam for fixing drywall are used if it is necessary to sheathe not only a wooden wall, but also surfaces derived from other materials that require correction. Adhesive gypsum composition is more often used for leveling a concrete or brick wall. However, it should be noted right away that the frameless method of fixing drywall should be used only when the walls have a height not exceeding 3000 mm.

In this publication, the nuances of only frameless drywall fastening will be considered.

Necessary materials and tools

Set of tools

To level the walls with drywall using one of the adhesives, you will need much fewer tools than if a frame was attached to the wall. The list of everything you need consists of the following items:

1. A plumb line, a building level and a rule, preferably 1500 mm long - to control the evenness of the original wall and the created vertical plane.
2. Electric jigsaw or sharp clerical knife - for cutting drywall.
3. Rulers of different lengths, a square, a tape measure and a simple pencil - for marking.
4. A wide, medium and narrow spatula, and possibly a trowel (trowel) - for applying and distributing the solution.
5. Construction grater - for processing puttied surfaces.
6. Roller and brush - for treating walls with a primer.
7. Rubber mallet - for adjusting drywall sheets glued to the wall.
8. Electric drill and mixer nozzle - for mixing the solution.
9. In some cases, it will be required - for additional fixation with self-tapping screws.

Drywall prices

drywall

Necessary materials

Now it is necessary to consider the materials that will be required to prepare the surface of the walls and for the high-quality installation of drywall:

1. Priming solution with antiseptic additives.
2. Gypsum-based putty mixture, base and finish.
3. Dry mortar - drywall adhesive, or mounting foam.
4. Serpyanka mesh tape - for sealing joints between sheets.
5. Long self-tapping screws may be required to level the wall by adjusting drywall sheets. The size of the fasteners will depend on the evenness of the surface, taking into account the fact that they must be recessed into the wall by 50 ÷ 60 mm.
6. One of the alignment technologies will require pieces of foam rubber - this will be discussed in due time.

About some materials - a little more.

Drywall

The Knauf company produces not only a variety of building and finishing mixtures, but also plasterboard sheets for various purposes - this is a simple, moisture-resistant, fire-resistant and moisture-resistant finishing material:

1. Ordinary drywall (gypsum plasterboard or, according to Knauf's proprietary classification - GSP-A) is used for rooms with normal humidity.
2. Moisture-resistant sheets (GKLV or GSP-N2) can be used to level walls in bathrooms or bathrooms. After processing such a surface, ceramic tiles will perfectly lie on it.
3. Fire-resistant sheets (GKLO or GSP-DF) are used for finishing walls around the fireplace, stoves, chimneys.
4. Fire and moisture resistant drywall (GKLVO or GSP-DFH2) is well suited for wall decoration in boiler rooms of private houses, in attic and attic rooms.

Here you can also briefly talk about, which does not require much effort, experience and special tools - it is enough to have an ordinary sharp clerical knife on hand. The cutting process takes place in the following order:

1. The sheet is placed on a solid base - it can be a large table, a floor or several stools placed side by side at some distance from each other.
2. Then, using a tape measure or ruler, the sheet is marked out, the necessary lines are drawn with a simple pencil.
3. The next step along the drawn line, also along the ruler, is carried out with a knife, which should cut the top layer of cardboard.
4. The sheet is shifted to the edge of a hard surface, and placed on it along the notch line.
5. Then, on the edge of the drywall, which extends beyond the base, pressure is applied, which will cause the sheet to break along the cut line.
6. The last step is cutting the cardboard on the other side of the sheet.