Summer ended during which we created beauty, comfort and harmony on our sites, planted the plants liked, cared for them, and some received a crop. Golden autumn came, not the Zagoras already and winter. Now it's time to think about how to keep everything that we have so carefully created that our favorite plants please us next year (and not only).
Take care of plants needed in advance
Additional care in cold period The years will be required by plants, the birthplace of which are more southern regions from the Urals. Similarly, it is advisable to take care of the young seedlings quite winterly by our plants that were planted on the site just this summer, because They are just getting rid of and have not yet fastened.
Special attention is required by plants that were planted this year.
What exactly can the winter can harm our pets?
- First, naturally, the cold and frost are dangerous when the air temperature is lowered below the limit that a particular plant can take place. Here it is necessary to immediately clarify that according to the average temperature standards of the Ural and, more specifically, the Sverdlovsk region correspond to the zones of frost resistance 4 and 3 (by international Classification), i.e. The air temperature can be lowered to -30 / -36 degrees Celsius in winter, and the temperature on the soil can be lowered to -40 degrees (especially in the north of the region). Accordingly, all those plants that are not able to make such a decrease in temperatures are in the risk zone and may not wake up the next spring. It is particularly necessary to say that the harm to plants are applied not short-term cold (conditionally call them "frosty shock test"), which lasts from several hours to two days, namely the long frost period when the cold hold a week or more.
- Many plants are very difficult to carry sharp temperature fluctuations when frosts are rapidly replaced by thaw and vice versa.
- It is dangerous to the onset of moderate and strong cold weather, without the presence of snow cover or with its minimum availability.
- In addition, not favorably on plants can affect and thaw in winter, due to the fact that during this period in the holes in the roots, water can be causing the roots, and the roots can start climbing or prohibitive.
- For small plants or plants with gentle, thin twigs, among other things, there may be a "unbearable niche" a big snow cover, which simply breaks these branches.
In the risk area there may be even plants familiar to cold
Help plants to cope with frost will certainly helpshelter
Consider when and how to stream plants.
At many years of experience, scientists and gardeners revealed that the shelter of plants must be carried out when the air temperature at night lowers up to -5 degrees Celsius or lower. This usually happens in the second half of October - November. You should not do this before, since plants need to get a small hardening, get used to low temperatures.
- "Classic" shelter For small plantsbelieved fir or pine yard. Among the main advantages of this material are the following: it prevents direct contact of the plant with snow (delays snow), as well as with ice crust; retains heat; provides small or moderate air access, thus allowing the ventilation of the plant; The husknik is not subject to rotting and does not damage the microorganisms, mold or mushrooms; Early spring boots will perfectly protect the plant from overheating under the right sunny rays. By the cons of this type of shelter, we can attribute what kind of material is not always simple, especially in the required quantity. In addition, it is clear that for the sake of the shelter of one plant, we have to break another (spruce or pine tree).
Use of the Palm - classic method Shelter
- For small plants, in addition to the above-mentioned method fits shelter foliage.For shelter, it is recommended to use only dry, rustling and healthy leaves. You can collect leaves in advance, keeping them in polypropylene bags somewhere in a barn or under the roof. Use, for example, you can leave birch leaves (as the most common tree in Russia) or oak (oak leaves most often do not rot and do not damage to fungal infection). The thickness of the shelter leaves should be from 15 to 30 cm. In addition, it is necessary to install additional shelter from water and snow (for example, a waterproof box or film) so that the foliage does not go to the foliage, otherwise it will be flown, hurt and even possible - rot. The disadvantage of this method of shelter can only be considered that it is not always possible to collect all healthy leaves, in them, unfortunately, there may be some pests and diseases that previously lived on a deciduous tree.
Shelter foliage requires preliminary preparation of material
- By analogy with dry leaves, plant can be covered with dry yellow cheese larch. This case of shelter is safer from the point of view of the enhancing of any diseases or pests on the plant, but the hive of this tree is not always possible to get into the required quantity.
- Shelter straw Suitable for perennial plants And small shrubs. As you know, straw is well delayed snow and keeps warm. But, as well as with the shelter leaves, it is necessary that the straw does not go out (you can cover it from above with a film). By the cons of this type of shelter, it is possible to attribute only that sometimes petty rodents are found under such a shelter. Therefore, some gardeners advise under the shelter with a straw to put and poison from rodents so that our plants are definitely damaged to anyone.
It's time to raise straws!
- Shelter with dry chips or sawdustit is approximately the same as the leaves or straw, with a sole accounting that this species Shelters do not apply for those plants that need soil with alkaline reaction Ph because Chips and sawdust with subsequent decomposition and overwriting in spring and summer - contribute to the acidification of the soil.
Shelter chips
- Hilling (Creating a soil holly around the roots and plants stems)or mulching (Rock) purge or peat can also be considered one of the simple and at the same time convenient ways Warming plants for the winter. This method is most often applied to preserve perennials. It is widely known that peat remarkably protects the root neck of plants from frost damage. Some breeders recommend to mulch peat and place vaccinations at the plant (if the vaccination is done not high).
- Kraft paper (High strength wrapping paper from a weakly long-fiber sulfate cellulose) - Another good streaming material. Sufficiently dense, it perfectly protects the plants from sun burns (which is especially necessary for some young plants); Protects from wind and frost. Most often, this shelter is used for coniferous and evergreen refinery. By cons of this type of shelter, we can attribute already designated above - Kraft paper - protects against sunburn, but itdoes not miss the sunlight. Therefore, unfortunately, it can be used to cover not all plants, but only those that really strongly suffer from sunburn (especially in February - March).
- Loutrasil, Spunbond - Lightweight, comfortable covering material. May be different density. The canvas of this material can be directly used for shelter, and also stretch on the frame, cutting into strips for winding plant stabes. However, some agrotechnic specialists recommend using spunbond as winter shelter, since the structure of this material is such that passing heat inside, it does not produce it back and plants during thaws in winter under it may suffer from overheating. Therefore, it is recommended to use spunbond 17 or 30 UV density, but not more high density.
Choosing a cloth for shelter, check the degree of its UV
- Shelter with frameworks Used for medium and large shrubs and trees. The frame can be made or purchased in stores for gardeners. Wooden or wire (from the wire mesh) frame is mounted on the ground, along the perimeter of the plant, the above-mentioned material is stretched on the frame.
In addition, a small free space between the frame and the plant can be filled with dry foliage
- Not quite the standard way of shelter is shelter ceramisit. As is known, the ceramzite is a foamed (saturated air) burned clay in the form of almost round granules with a size of several millimeters to 1 - 2 cm. Ceramzite - has a brick color, i.e. Reddish brown. It is easier than water about 2 times. It does not burn, does not rot and does not sink in water. In addition, the ceramzite has excellent thermal insulation properties. Keramzit maybe apply to preserve perennials. They are sprinkled with root cervix plants to save from cold.
Deciding with what needs to be done to save plants from the cold, we now turn to the opposite situation.
What you need to take the plants to successfully survive?
Thaw in winter!
The thaw is dangerous not by itself, how much effects - flooding, stagnation of water, shocking, sparing and rotting the roots, as well as frosts, coming after thaw.
The consequences of thaw in winter can be crying
- So, in the thaw, it is advisable to create grooves for tall water From the zone of the root neck and roots of the plant. In addition, removing the water from the trunk of the plant, you can a littleseal the comer circle, and around the root cervixpour dry sand or sand mixed with peat. The specified measures for plants such as felt cherries, a number of cherry, Irgi, honeysuckle, gooseberry and black currant are especially necessary.
- If thaws repeat quite often, and from year to year, then in the autumn, it is recommended to bleach trunks of shrubs and trees - To protect against fungal diseases that can manifest itself in the period of thaws.
- Herbatous perennials are also autumn (in dry weather) is preferably spray 3% solution copper Kaper Also to protect plants from infections and fungal diseases that are manifested in thaw.
- The most dangerous is considered thawing in February. Warming during this period can provoke a slotting, and further cold, if it comes - freezes the fluids in the trunks and branches of trees and shrubs. This can lead to freezing fruit and growth kidney. Experienced gardeners at such a period are recommended to provide young seedlings of trees and shrubs, thereby protecting them from severe sunlight.
When alternating in winter frosts with a thaw And again, frosts - perhaps another phenomenon. It is icing the branches of plants, as well as the icing of soil cover (if the water did not take place in a timely manner). As you know, layer ice on soil surgeless circles - Significantly worsens air exchange in plants, so the ice is always recommended to be removed, swaying in return to him not blind, soft snow or break this ice. This measure is necessary for all not covered, meaningful for AAC plants. As for the icing of the branches, it can be avoided by the shelter plants for the winter with the help of frames and spunbond. The same shelter will help with clusters large number Snow on the branches of plants. Especially important this shelter is for plants with thin, fragile twigs (for example, for a number of thuy varieties).
No shelter for the winter, plants with thin branches
We mention about another necessary as much as the plant preparation for the winter - competent fertilizers during the growing season.
So, since the end of July, it is not recommended to feed trees and shrubs with fertilizers containing nitrogen, which stimulates the growth of shoots. Since this time, young shoots must stop growing in length and they have to begin the decoration of the bark so that they can safely survive the winter. But potassium and phosphorus for preparation for winter plants will be required (doses of fertilizer application should be read on packages). Potash and phosphor fertilizers - can be fed and autumn.
Removing from support
In short, we still focus on the care of curly plants, such as grapes, Clematis, Lemongners, etc. After the middle of October (when establishing cold weather), their shoots are recommended to be removed from the supports and to stream with dry foliage, straw or dry peat, and on top of another film or other waterproof material.
Care of plants in containers
And lastly, let's touch plants that are grown in decorative containers, vases, tubs, pots. They are either recommended to enter into a slightly heated room for the winter, or (winter-hardy copies) - to jumped in a plot of insert from the earth, preferably from the southern, leeward side.
Even more useful
The article is written based on their own experience and using information from sources : from the article: "Thaw in the garden" of the journal "Gardener" No. 8 for 2011; From the article "Spring begins in the fall" of the magazine "Flora" No. 4 for 1997; articles "Plant shelter for the winter. Not too lazy" From the site "Lazy Garden"; Articles "Plant Shelter for Winter" From "Eve. Nursery decorative plants";" Plant Shelter for the Winter. Receptions "from the site Country garden Nizhny Novgorod. and region; Articles: "Plant shelter for the winter. Dignity and disadvantages" From the site "Smart gardener. Internet magazine for dacnis"; Articles "Plant Shelter for Winter" (author KB Chizhova) from the site "Landscape Art"; Articles "Protection against frosts, rose shelter, decorative plants for the winter" from the site "City".
In winter, even hardy plants is not easy, especially in last years. The weather has become completely unpredictable, protect your garden from her whims is increasingly harder. And do we always have reliable information about how to protect the plants for the winter correctly? But our mistakes can cost the lives of green pets! Therefore, I propose to discuss rather common myths about the winter shelter of plants.
Why did I decide to talk about it today, when it would seem to do anything in the garden and the garden is already late? Yes, because to learn something new and useful about our favorite plants and learn mistakes is never late. I suggest that we do this right now :)
Myth 1: All plant plants need in shelter
AT lately On television, in newspapers, and in the network, so many recommendations for the winter shelter of plants began to appear on the network, that many beginner gardeners decided: in the shelter, literally all the inhabitants of the garden need. But believe me, most perennial cultures on your site are capable of perfectly overwhelming and without facilities around them additional shelters simply because they are well adapted to the climate of your region.
Snow - excellent heat insulator
Of course, there are not too resistant to the whims of weather scarves, take care of which will have: first of all, it is all kinds of roses (the exception is only park), Clematis, which bloom on last year's shoots, phlox, peonies, lilies, rhododendrons and others. But do not overpay with the shelter! For example, the main part of roses is not dying from frost, but from a banal spontaneousness, due to the fact that the plants were covered too early in the fall, and in the spring, on the contrary, disclosed too late.
Myth 2: Plant Shelter - Warranty His Successful Winter
Many gardeners had to observe a sad picture: thoroughly prepared for wintering, well-covered plants die for incomprehensible reasons. Why is this happening? I think I will not open you a secret if I say that the plants may die not so much from a strong frost, as much as the sharp change of temperature during thaws.
It is unstable weather with sharp drops of temperature provokes excessive freezing and mooring of the soil. Outcome: Various mechanical damage to plants, posting and wringing the root system and, as a result, death. Remember: maybe even well covered plant!
What to do
- do not perceive the shelter of plants for the winter as a panacea: shelter is only one of the methods to help increase the winter hardiness of the plants. One, but not the only one;
- do on the preparation of plants to wintering complex : Pay attention not only to proper planting of plants, but also their timely watering, feeding. Of course, cover your plants if they need it!
Myth 3: Hispanication of the Earth is a sufficient way to cover low-spirited plants for the winter
Hilling - Creating a holmik from the soil over the roots and residues of the stems - traditional method Winter shelter plants. Thanks to the dipping, we are not so much protecting the plants from frosts (although the soil freezes in the hilly is really slower), how much we create a relief of the soil around them. Due to what the spring is better away tELL WATER, and the plant itself is protected from wringing.Dipping - good way Shelting plants for the winter, and deny it meaningless, but no one is going to. Just try to guess not ordinary garden earth, but by humus. Why should it be preferred? Here are the arguments in favor of humoring:
- he has a more loose and easy structure (in comparison with land), it does not fit;
- it is more different high thermal insulationsince it has low thermal conductivity;
- significantly increases soil fertility.
Such a structure will be a reliable shelter for your plants, believe me. Especially for him you need quite a bit: non-flat carcass and any suitable covering material.
Myth 4: Best Purpose Materials for Plants for Winter - Napnik and Futy Foliage
Well, I will not argue: that the laps that the fallen foliage are beautiful underfloor materials, but ... let's talk about them more specifically.The spruce and pine yard is deservedly considered one of the best undercover materials: it does not require material costs and perfectly copes with his task - becomes an excellent shelter for plants for the winter. Moreover, it protects them not only from severe frosts, but also the ubiquitous rodents, which are stored to enjoy our plants.
In addition, the boottle perfectly protects against cold winds, wet snow and ice rains. It does not increase frost resistance, but under his reliable protection Creating ideal for wintering plants conditions. Under the shelter from the laps, the temperature differences are excellently smoothed, but also lose their destructive power by burning rays of the winter sun. Consequently, the laps is an ideal means to increase the winter resistance of plants. But still...
If you live far from the forest, you will be very problematic enough - it is first. Secondly, even if the forest is very close, remember: in accordance with the forestry regulations, it is allowed to harvest fir and pine paws only with already conceded trees that are in places of planned logging of forests or at grounds of sanitary cleaning. Well, thirdly, along with the fabric brought from the forest, you can put on your country cottage area Different pests and even infection, and you need it?
Before you get a snack, go through the woods and take a look at pine and fierce from which you are going to harvest the perfect observer material - are they all healthy? Do you see them yellowed branches and rusty needles? And in what condition is their bark - there are small black thighs and naked sections? If so, then such an injection material can apply only irreparable harm to the inhabitants of your site. How to be? The answer is simple - do not bring sick gifts to your area. It is possible to harvest the bag only from those conifers that are healthy, and even better if they grow on your site.
Futy foliage
Favoring foliage is a good pasture material: it reliably protects the soil from the first cold and serves as excellent food of the rainworms, which, in turn, increase the fertility of this soil. But does the folia and the foliage can be used for winter shelter of plants?
I think I will not be mistaken, suggesting that each gardener had to watch how quickly the leaves of the majority are decomposed. garden trees. In addition, it is in the foliage that mice are very like to be arranged, which will not bring the garden to any benefit, but the harm is definitely. For winter, only oak foliage does not have time to contradicinate, and therefore it is better to use it as a streamlined material. As an alternative, you can use birch leaves, maple and chestnut.
But that's not all. Before hiding your plants to foliage, it needs to be properly harvested: the leaves must be assembled with freshly bother and absolutely dry. It is impossible to cover plants with wet foliage , before use, it should be stored in a dry room.
Another minus of the use of foliage as a curable material is its spring cleaning: a tedious occupation, takes away a lot of effort and time. How to avoid this? Everything is extremely simple: collect the foliage in a timely manner, folding it dry in the mesh bags from a plastic or piping grid with small cells (carrots, onions and other vegetables sell in such bags) and cover the plants directly with these bags, not pouring from them. In such grids, the leaves will be normally stored due to the fact that they can breathe freely. And in the spring you will understand improvised shelters in just a few minutes.
For foliage in grids throughout the winter period remained dry and not enough, additional shelter must be made over it. To do this, you can build a hard frame in the form of a cube or pyramid (depending on the shape of the collapsed plant) and cover this frame with any nonwoven material (not only with a polyethylene film!). If you do not have a nonwoven material, you can easily use an ordinary ruberoid, only and the like.
Myth 5: Non-woven Materials - the perfect way of shelter
Of course, nonwoven observing materials have greatly facilitated our work. With their help it became easier to grow some thermal-loving cultures and they can really be excellent material for winter protection of plants, but only if you use them right!
I will give a simple example: spruce, thoroughly covered with a dense cover from non-woven material, after the winter simply may die. Why? After all, it is such covers that sell in stores as protection for conifers!
In fact, everything is very prosaic: covers from non-woven materials really perfectly protect conifers, but only in countries with little snowy winter! In our same harsh winters, when thaw alternate with strong frosts, use such covers need very carefully! You just think: the whole winter is your poor fir eats in wet and cold attire, plus strong cold winds and frosts, thanks to which it will turn into an ice shell. What plant can withstand such a test?
What to do? Do not use nonwoven materials as winter shelter? And here is not. Just do not cover coniferous fully in it: Take it on top Tree crowns, approximately 1/3, leaving the lower part without shelter. In any case, in no case, do not wrap off the top of the plant, do something like a shag. Then the tender twigs of conifers will not touch the wet and cold shell from nonwoven material. So you will protect the tree not only from frosts, but also from the exposure to sunlight.
But the beautiful protect against the bottom of the conifer will become snow. Just after the snowfall, they swing under the coniferous snow more snow and, if possible, pronounce it with a sweetheart. And only when almost all the snow is melted (approximately at the end of February or early March), you can throw some fabric to the rest of the tree. Not necessarily nonwoven material, you can use ordinary burlap or dense cardboard shields.
If you certainly want to use non-woven underfloor material for winter protection of roses, Clematis and other plants - use, but combining it with other materials - the same foliage or sweetheart. Only so you can create the perfect winter shelter for plants.
As a winter shelter, you can use:
- snow - Beautiful material. It is he who will help you to cover the plants from severe frosts, but again, do not use only snow. Sketch it on plants already covered with foliage and nonwoven material - this will significantly increase the protection efficiency. Come to the question comprehensively;
- ceramzit which can not only be a wonderful covering material, but also excellent mulch, good drainage and heat insulator. Moreover, the advantage of the clamzit is also that it protects the plants both in winter and in the summer, perfectly protecting against the rotation of the root system. To prepare plants by winter, the ceramzite needs to be added immediately after planting plants in the fall, it makes no sense to wait for cold weather, and it is very convenient.
- peat which traditionally insulate the land around various shrubs and trees. But be careful with peat - it is very skinny soil, and if some plants are only for the benefit, then many to harm.
There are no information on the shelter of plants, right? I collected the most relevant publications on the topic. I hope they will be useful not only to beginners, but also experienced gardeners.
The question of how and how to stream plants for the winter, sharply gets up to each gardenover before the end of the next dacha season. Special covering materials for plants are quite a lot, but this does not mean that it is necessary to climb bushes, trees or flowers with a thick layer of dense tissue and can not be worried. Not every culture needs such procedures, and some are quite simple enough "grandfathers" methods of protection that you will learn about.
On the eve of winter, people buy themselves winter clothes or get fur coats and down jackets from the cabinets and with the mezzanine. Also garden plants We need shelter, reliably protecting from frosts. And since cultures on our site are growing different, then the types of winter shelters for each perennial are different.
What to strengthen the plants and how to do it right, you will learn by getting acquainted with this material.
When to stream plants in the garden for the winter?
In the fall, and even more so in winter, the night frosts are the usual phenomenon. Gradually, the soil freezes, and a crust is formed on it. If there are plants that are not resistant to frost in the garden, they should begin to be stolen. Dates when to stream plants in the garden for the winter, depend on the specific features of cultures. For example, hydrangea that loves heat should be started with October, and roses can wait until the end of the month, since they should be trimmed first. But anyway experienced gardeners They advise not to wait for persistent frosts, since the cooling is accompanied by the fallout of snow, and this will interfere with the construction of many shelters.
However, it is also not worth a hurry with the shelter of colors and other plants for winter protection. It happens that the first frosts to -5 ° C are already in September, which leads the owners of perennial winter plants into confusion. It is not necessary to scare this weather phenomenon.
The first frosts in September-October are an ordinary and not interfering with plants independently, without the participation of a person, prepare for winter. Even if the thermometer shows -10 ° C, the perennials such a temperature will not cause any harm.
Small snow at this time of year will also not interfere with the plants to expect real winter snowfalls, reset the leaves, etc. After all, most often after small frosts, a thaw comes, even if the ice crust formed before that on Earth.
Do not hurry with the structure of shelters, because for plants it is the last opportunity to enjoy the sunshine, imagine the remnants nutrients And distribute them on the twigs and leafs, grow roots and finish the aging tissue. Without this, the garden pets will not be forces to survive for a long winter. Even more - early frosts are useful for many bulbous plantsSince thanks to this, their proportion is slowed down and all wintering cultures rebuild their life rhythm for new weather conditions.
What plants to cover for the winter?
All plants can be divided into the level of cold resistance and, based on this, building shelters. Taking one or another culture to a specific type, not only its cold resistance should be assessed, but also the winter hardiness as a whole.
At the same time, there is a plant's ability to withstand low temperatures associated with them dampness and diseases, spring burns other adverse factorswhich are associated with the onset of winter season. In order to protect the plants correctly, it is important to estimate the ability of garden pets to recover after freezing.
However, the viability of the plant depends not only on its own protective forcesBut from what weather surprises prepared winter.
You should also take into account the climatic zone in which you live, and the possible temperature anomalies of your region. Only by estimating all the above factors, it is possible to decide on the erection of shelter.
First of all, it should be built for the winter shelter for flowers such as daffodils of all groups as well. Lilies require protection, but not all, but only tubular hybrids, Lilies Candidum and Eastern - they need to be stolen especially carefully. Perennials in need of winter protection is an insurgent, bookophy, Chrysanthemum Korean, Fisure, and others.
It is not necessary to strengthen the molarsque flowers for the winter, which bloom in spring, -, (chess and white bed), Pushkin, and others. These plants are well rooted and during the winter do not have time to freeze. But if they plant these bulk after September 20, it is worth falling asleep to the mulch top. One of the conditions for the good wintering of all the bulbs is a landing place not slept with melting waters.
Also need winter shelter thermal-loving perennial plants, such as asparagus, rhubarb, melissa lemon and others.
Best underwent material for plants for the winter
Modern strength materials for plants are affected by a variety. But at the same time do not forget about those that served faith and the truth still our grandparents. To create reliable shelter, they should be used in the aggregate.
Netchanka.
Most often used dense nonwoven white material, or geotextile. High density material should be selected - from 80 g per 1 m2. Such a fabric will not swing and better fulfills its protective functions. Installing shelters, it is necessary to ensure that the material does not come into contact with the leaves or joy of plants. Also, the coating should be only white.
Sackcloth.
This coating is more effective than nonwoven canvas. Under the burlap plants do not succeed and do not burn. The coating can be used even without a frame, simply by sketching the material on the plant and riding the rope from above.
Even if the leaves of evergreen plants are talking to burlap, they are restored in the spring without loss. Often burlap is used not as a shelter from frosts, but as protection against dried and burns. The only minus material is the price. For example, the geotextile of the brand is 60 cheaper than bourlains of about 4 times.
Jute grid.
In fact, this material for the shelter of crops for the winter is a more expensive version of burlap. In addition, the jute grid does not have soft and it is hard to work with it.
Film.
Without it, it is impossible to make air-dry shelter for the most demanding plants - roses and hydrangeas. But the film needs a special approach, during the construction of protection you need to know some nuances in order not to destroy the plants.
Composite canvas.
This is a novelty among the observed materials for the shelter of plants. The canvas consists of geotextiles and finely plastic mesh. When installing structures made of composite web, you must additionally create a framework, since the form of the material will not hold. The canvas is intended only for small plants, since its width leaves 0.4-1 m and it is not enough to cover large plants.
Plant shelter rules
Before hiding flowers and other plants, you should familiarize yourself with the main rules of installation. protective materials In accordance with local climatic features and its capabilities.
Remember that plants, in contrast to us, not warm-blooded creatures. And if we can warm up, putting a fur coat on yourself, then the plants are useless. AT winter time Heat comes from the ground, and so that there is a comfortable temperature in the shelter, it is necessary to reduce heat loss at the expense of heat-insulating materials. In the winter house for plants will be warmer if it is low. But the various covers, the winding of plants on the support serve to protect against burns, wind, but not from frosts.
The main heat insulating material is given to us by nature itself - it is snow. If the layer of loose snow lay on the site all winter, it would be possible to worry about shelters. Therefore, all protective devices must be constructed so that they are covered by snow. They should not be high and with visors that prevent the coating.
The heat is preserved better if used loose materials, and the shelter itself must contain air layers.
Shelters need to be constructed in a timely manner, as mentioned above, and before this, plants are fed, cut off, then frustrate the soil around them, they are covered with a humus, compost, manure and plunge. Only after that you can proceed to the construction of protection.
Despite all the efforts of Gargetnikov, it happens that the plants are dying in shelters, and most often the blade is not cold, but various diseaseswhich develop under dampness. Therefore, it is worth the creation of dry shelters, as well as to air the plants in the fall and in spring and warn the waterproof in them.
Main types of winter shelter plants
The main types of shelter plants for the winter are mulching, gluttony, air-dry and air-wet methods.
Mulching.
Under mulching means the shelter of the Earth various materials In order to reduce heat loss and to save the root system. Almost all wintering garden plants can be sprinkled with mulch. But it is especially important for bulbous and plants not enough cold-resistant or with a surface root system.
The mulch uses humid, sawdust, peat, leaves and other materials. Mulch plants around, but the location of the land to the trunk of the plant cannot be touched. Over time, mulch due to snow and rain can move closer to the base of the plants. In order to impede this, the space directly near the trunk must be filled with sand with a small slide.
Often, garden plants fall asleep foliage, but it should be borne in mind that dry leaves scattered on the ground perfectly perform the thermal insulation function. On the contrary, wet foliage only worsens the situation and contributes to rotting. If there are plants with sockets (for example, Korean chrysanthemums), wet leaves can cause death, especially if the wet climate prevails in the region.
Hilling.
Under extracting, implies the plugness of the earth, peat, sawdust and other loose materials to the base of the bush. The layer is stacked with a height of 10-40 cm. Thus, in the root neck area, the temperature rises and the kidneys are preserved. This is done in relation to many plants - Hortensia, Clematis, Roses. But be careful because for some plants, inclined to ripening, the dipping can cause death, as it leads to the joint of the bark in the field of the base of the bush.
In the north-west, the climate is unstable, winter is set for a long time and inhalation of plants should be caution. In addition, the gluttony cannot be carried out if frosts have appeared on the plant. For example, roses through the resulting cracks can penetrate infection.
Flexing.
Many plants have a ground part that is susceptible to cold. It can be shrubs that bloom on the shoots of last year. Such plants are protected by bending followed by snow. The bending is carried out as follows: in the ground, the pegs are driven and the top of the plant is fixed in a horizontal position with the help of ropes and a wire alphabet. There is even special wirerests equipped with rings to maintain bushes.
Under the plant it is necessary to put boards or lattices so that it is naked not to the ground and the branches did not start from dampness. It is necessary to do it before the onset of frosts, otherwise the wood will become too fragile. Sometimes plants cover the non-woven cloth from above. Flexibility are subject to large hydrangea, shrub I. pleet roses, Weigela and others. In the spring, the bushes need to straighten until the appearance of shoots, otherwise the plants spawn.
Air-dry shelter.
This is the most time consuming and at the same time one of the most effective winter shelters. It consists of durable carcassIntroducing the severity of snow (up to 60 cm high), insulation layer and moisture insulating layer. The frame is made of thick wire, shield, wooden box laid on support.
As heat insulating material Loftrasil or panels of any fabric are used. The moisture insulating layer is made from a transparent or black polyethylene film or rubberoid. Also for this, a silver film is suitable - it is opaque, but, unlike black, heats up much less. When using a transparent film, the shelter must be additionally pronounced, otherwise the spring protective structure will turn into a greenhouse and plants overheat.
All facilities using the film suffer from one attack - dampness. In the shelter, it is necessary to ensure dryness, and make it as follows.
Inside the winter house remove all the fallen leaves and weeds. Also break off all the leaves from the plant itself and dry this place well.
For example, the plant can be installed polyethylene roof. When creating protection, it is necessary to use dry materials only to avoid extra humidity.
In the construction, it is also necessary to make holes for venting. They are closed when frosts with a film or Loutrasirisl, so that the plant is even a little ventilated at the occurrence of thaw.
Air-wet shelter.
This construction is an alternative to the installation of air-dry shelter.
The purpose of such a shelter is to create an air layer around the plant. At the same time, the plant itself is not isolated from moisture, wets and emphasize as a result of air, but it is very important not to press it tightly to the ground during the construction of the structure.
Typically, a dense nonwoven material is placed on a low support. The support may be not as strong as in the case of aircraft shelter, and the material is stacked in a 1-2 layer.
Support can be made of rails laid on logs or bricks. Even plastic lattice drawers for vegetables will be suitable for this purpose.
Especially useful such protection for cushions, which, thanks to her, are not pressed against the ground and, therefore, do not rot. If chrysanthemums and phlox should be hidden under the shelter, the remains of the stems that stick out after trimming are used. On them, the plant is covered with a thick loaf or cloth. With this method of protection, the plant can be kept in shelter into any weather and the disclosure time is not critical.
In the next section of the article, you will learn how to hide the rose, coniferous and evergreen trees for the winter.
How to root the trees and plenty roses for the winter (with video)
Shelter rhododendrons and coniferous trees.
These plant species are poorly tolerated. They suffer most often not from frosts, but from burns, debates and drainage. To strengthen the winter coniferous trees And Rhododendrons, first of all, they need to be protected from wind, sun and abundant snow, since branches can be broken under his weight.
Shelter evergreen trees.
Before stroke the evergreen trees for winter, prepare correct material. These plants are not transferred as protection film and even dense Loutrasil. For them, structures are made using light fabric.
You can sew a case of old sheets and secure it with sticks installed on the shala, and ropes. Boxes with slots are also used as shelters, and only the roof is covered with polyethylene. Print plants from autumn, and remove protection in cloudy weather after the snow is gathering and thawing the earth.
Shelter with plenty roses.
In the case of these plants it is necessary to apply several ways to protect. The bushes are plunged, bend and covered.
When installed protective construction It is necessary to be ready for any weather conditions that cannot be predicted most often. Therefore, it is important to choose the optimal types of shelters that preserve in the garden until the spring. It is also important not to overflow in the fall of plants with nitrogen, fight pests and diseases and comply with the landing time. This will allow plants to survive even the most severe frosts without loss.
Look at the video, how to cover roses for the winter to securely protect the plants:
In the autumn, their home and cottage need special care, since winter is no longer outside the mountains, but warm, suitable for work days is less and less. On the land plot All living seems to be freezing in anticipation of extraordinary metamorphoses. Slowing down the vital processes, the plants are preparing for the most unfavorable time of the year.
However, often plants are not always possible to fully enter the hibernation season and successfully transfer it without the help of a person. At our sites, more and more types and varieties come from more warm climatic zones. Often, these are already well acclimatized hybrids capable of more or less easily adjust to harsh weather conditions, although if you compare them with a local flora, according to part of the endurance, these plants are visibly inferior.
Especially exposed to the risk of death in winter trees and shrubs, the ground part of which during hibernation is not covered by protective insulating materials and snow. Frosty winds are blown from all sides, branches can get local frostbite, the worst of which is the frost and death of the kidneys.
Affecting the topic of winter resistance of plants It is important to understand that the endurance of varieties to the cold depends on the set of total factors:
Cultural plants brought from warm climatic zones, as well as local, crossed with thermal-loving varieties, rarely carry the temperature drop from -25 ° C;
Long-term stay in low temperatures leads to the complete death of both ground and underground parts of thermal-loving plants;
The vegetable garden is characterized by a destructive alternation of high humidity at a temperature near zero with a sharp freezing and a soil thawing;
Later, the cold summer with long rainy weather lead to stretching the growing season when the seeds begin to ripen in the coeximal period, without having time to reduce the growth rates by winter;
Incorrect agrotechnical techniques, excessive or later introduction of nitrogen-made feeding, can significantly extend all vegetative processes, bypassing high-quality preparation for seasonal hibernation.
Stone materials
Purpose materials can be used for any plant on your site, both for decorative floral species and food.
Consider the main materials:
1. Soft breed snapshot, like the needles herself individually, has excellent snowstaving and thermal insulation properties.
2. Loutrasil is an artificial canvas of various densities used as a conventional underfloor material over the soil, as well as when tosing bulk structures and frames (for example, chocated pyramids for conifers).
3. A finished mulching mixture from ecological natural components, which can be easily purchased in any flower shop, is used mainly to cover sensitive even to the slightest temperature fluctuations with varieties (often as a shelter for roses and other capricious crops).
4. Humile, fresh and overwhelming foliage wood breedsThe peat serves as a convenient material for mulching and dipping the covered land plot.
5. Kraft paper due to its density and high insulation capacity qualitatively protects against frost and temperature drops.
All listed materials are capable of showing excellent protection against frosts, but it is worth it to disassemble the strong and weak sides Shelters. So with all the convenience of using Loutrasil, you should not forget about its ability to warm, without producing sufficient air circulation. The heat accumulated inside can lead to plants overheating during even short winter thaws.
Kraft paper is pleasantly pleased with its impermeability for light, as a result of which your pets (in particular conifer) will not be threatened with any sunburn.
Vegetable mulch taken from natural environmentmay be infected with dangerous pests and diseases whose manifestation will be noticeably in the next growing season. Many gardeners and dackets, preparing the garden and a garden for the winter, prefer to buy a ready-made mulch that can act as a pleasant decorating material.
Shelter rose
Pursuing the preparation of the site by winter, gardeners with a special trepidation belong to high-quality rose shelter. To date, their forms have a huge set, for each of which there are certain rules for the preparation for hibernation.
So, for example, the plenty roses end to fertilize nitrogen-containing feeders already at the end of July - early August. In October, unbearable shoots are removed from roses to the aging spot. Using the moment you can try to form a bush, cutting the old useless unproductive leaves.
It is advisable to break the folia from the bushes or trimmed by the disinfected scissors - as you like. The ourselves are preferably bung up and fix as close as possible to the ground so that they do not touch it.
Stambling roses are also flexing in the ground, trying not to damage the root neck, it is best to do it an anatomy according to her visible bending. All other roses during trimming are not necessarily bending and free from the leaves, the main thing is that the remaining ground part allows you to qualitatively apply underpox material, especially if it is a box or tissue.
It is important to remember that the preparation of roses should be carried out necessarily with a positive or near-zero temperature, since the shelter of roses in winter is more than a useless occupation - the flowers will die anyway. If you are accustomed to dipping and stroke roses with a cloth, you have already come across the problem of hearing and overgrowing a bush with a dangerous fungus. As a rule, this occurs due to violation of air microcirculation inside the shelter, accumulation and heating of moisture during thaws.
To prevent so unpleasant consequences It is important to ensure that a small gap for breathing remains between the Earth and the cloth. Special purchased shelters on the type of "fur coats" on the basis of peat and moss Safagnum will help absorb an extra moisture. Last, in turn, except thermal insulation properties It has good bactericidal and antifungal action.
The finished mixture is usually simply poured on top of the designed bushes with a layer of several centimeters and all - a reliable shelter of roses for the winter is ready! Such a mixture guarantees efficient preservation during the wintering of almost all plants on the site, except for, perhaps, trees and tall shrubs, whose branches can still suffer from frosty wind.
Shelter Chrysanthemum
Conventional chrysanthemums cultivated by flowers for many years well tolerate winter heat. Modern Korean varieties do not differ in impressive size of buds, but our weather is adapted to the best way.
After chrysanthemums bloom them, it is necessary to trim and dangle to the ground as roses. From above, the bushes can be covered with mulch from foliage or humoring, additionally cover with any waterproof material. As soon as the soil starts to thaw, it is possible to lift the tissue (film), completely removing it only with a complete thawing of the Earth.
Drazing indian chrysanthemums Amazed the size of buds and intolerance to even the most minor drops of temperature. These flowers are better not to leave in the open soil to wintering. For their safety, it is worth digging the underground part and put before the arrival of spring into the cellar or other little heated dark room.
The ground part is cut to 10-12 cm in height. For laying it is desirable to use wooden "breathable" boxes. The chrysanthemums laid down with gangs are shown by a substrate consisting of peat, sphagnum and coarse river sand at will. Chrysanthemums can no longer water, because old roots can begin to root, especially in the presence of at least a weak light source.
Shelter Clematis
Clematis flowerbeds in the fall also need special care. Depending on the variety, Clematis is cut into a height from 30 cm to 1.5 m. All unnecessary vines are cut, the rest are twisted by the type of ring or spirals and stacked closer to the ground. As heat insulating material Any natural material can be performed, which is sprinkled on the plants with a layer of 20-40 cm.
The substrate should be well succeeded and poroman. From above, Clematis is additionally covered (if necessary) with a box or frame, as well as any waterproof material. Between the Earth and the upper layer of shelter should be a small gap.
This method of protection requires additional actions on the side of the flower. In winter, it is necessary to protract paths between plants so that mice can not penetrate the gaps. In the spring, with the arrival of the first thaws, it is important to remove the waterproof material on time (usually film) to prevent the hearing of Clematis.
Shelter bulbous
In order for the garden and the garden in the winter in the winter, there are a large stress, you need to stock mulch in advance. natural materialAs the practice shows a lot of it does not happen - there is always something that could be covered. Especially relevant is precisely for bulbous plants, since their underground part contains a lot of water and is susceptible to rapid freecy.
Perhaps the most unpretentious among the onions are tulips, some Meltelukovic, kolkhikum.More easily daffodss. Kolkhikum. It is advisable to land in open sad Not later than mid-August, he will not require additional shelter, he has time to root well. Landing in the 20th of October will require reliable shelter.
Daffodss And some Meltelukovichesky is recommended to plant no later than mid-September. Tulips May be patient until mid-October. If the dates of landings are noticeably shifted forward, warming for the winter is simply necessary. Daffodss and lilies mostly poorly transferred very coldyTherefore, it is desirable to progress and always cover these colors.
In order for the bulbs in the soil, it is possible to cover them with a film until a complete cessation of rains. Before the last preparations for the film should be made dry mulch with a layer of no more than 3-5 cm. You can leave a gap for breathing.
With the arrival of autumn, it is usually a particular concern for the shelter for roses, and the importance of the insulation of other plants in some cases is reduced almost to "no". But do not forget that in our gardens and gardens it has become more immigrants from warm countries requiring special attention. And in order not to get upset the next spring, the presence of the colors that do not grow up, it is worth thinking right now exactly how you will insulate the plants by winter.
How to protect plants for winter video
Successes in flower growing and good luck!
November is nearing - it's time to equip winter. Does it be necessary to strengthen the plants for the winter? - Alas, it is necessary.
Neither you nor I have pleasant in my garden the ineploy inhabitants of our harsh climate. For such exotic, like roses, lavender, samshet, grapes have to pay - do not regret the time and effort on plant Shelter for Winter. You can, of course, take a chance and leave as it is, but it is a pity in the spring, not to reserve your favorite bushes and colors. AT best caseThey will lose a significant part of the crown, at worst - do not wake up at all.
What plants need to be covered?
First of all, guests from warm countries or places with soft winter - This is a lavender, samshet, grapes. Not all kinds of sage and vowes (thyme) carry our winter without losses, you need to experiment with them. Clematis, most roses also in the risk group. We plant the thermal-loving cypresses - their crown is damaged without winter shelter.
Container plants - lemons, rosemary, etc. We must also put in the house. These South on the street will not save even the most dense shelter.
Saplings in pots, even the most winter-hardy (currants, Siberian cedar, spruce, pines) must be covered in the evening with the earth, flush.
Most of the tui do not object to our winter cold weather, however, the young teui, up to 5 years, it is better to warm up for the winter.
High Tui, slender juniper and winter-hard-resistant cypressives are advised to toss in stockings or wrap Lutrasil so that their branches do not scatter and not broken under heavy wet snow. I, confess, I do not make it from aesthetic considerations: we round year We live in the village, and the conifers have been brought to the greens of anywhere in winter. Therefore, the old stockings on juniper do not suit me. But I have the opportunity to crawl the bushes after the snowfall. After the well-known Moscow catastrophic icing, even heated pine, freeing the ice from an electron heater "Wind" 
Risk factors:
Ansure ("black") frosts, strong and prolonged winter cold and, oddly enough, Martov's bright sun. Sun on the background of white snow damages gentle young boys. You can save them, cover with nonwoven material or installing the screen from the south side.
Plant Preparation for Winter
Preparation for wintering is important not only for thermal-loving plants. Even the original inhabitants of the middle strip can be badly transferred to the harsh winter. If you apply fertilizers, stop feeding nitrogen in advance, even at the end of summer. Nitrogen contributes to the growth of green mass, the aging of shoots is more important for autumn. Some perennials recommend removing flowers and buds by the end of September. The subflink of the thick layer of humus under the bushes will not only improve the soil, but also heats the roots in winter. After all, humus is both the fur coat, and the stove.
What and how to stream
The shelter method depends on the plant: its heights, winter hardiness, tendency to affect mold, etc. I designate general principles.
Step 1. Remove from the support, omit on the ground: roses, clematis, grapes.
Step 2.. I fall asleep bushes with oak leaves. Oak and does not rot, and prevent the spread of rot and fungal infection. We grow our oaks on the plot, and nearby - a whole oak grove. In the grove, I will conceive with a big polyethylene packageWhere tightly squeeze the fallen leaves. If with oaks tight, you can fall asleep with dry leaves of other trees, sawdust or even dry peat.
Step 3. Mount of oak leaves cover wooden box. This is ideal. Not all the plants have enough boxes. Then go to the thing carton boxes, plastic shoulder, multi-layer Loutrasil, pressed by boards - every brand material, for which fantasy is enough. That it is not recommended to use - this is a polyethylene film, under it in a detriment of all sorts of rot and mushrooms.
I saw some gardeners use a spruce husk plant for winter shelter. I am against such a way for ideological reasons - do not have forest trees to pay for our love for exotic.
Step 4.. Optional. When the first snow is falling, it is desirable to heat it on the sheltered beds. Plants will be warmer.
When to hide for the winter
The question is complex. We must guess the weather. Surgery too late - the plants will join, too early - rot. Most of all we need to be afraid of prolonged honeycomb, "black" frosts. As a rule, I cover plants in the first half of November, with the onset of sustainable frosts.
When to open plants in the spring
No less important to open plants on time. Again, if you open too early - the March sun burns the bushes weakened by winter hibernate, you will miss the moment - you will arrange a detriment for infection in the dark warm wet depths of the underfloor material ... I open it when I mainly went around. And immediately after - a reviving nitrogen feeding (urea boxes on a bucket of water or just slightly pour under decorative bushes).
It is a shame when, it would seem well tolerant plant, such a gentle and green under the layer of oak leaves, quickly dies, being outdoors. It happens. That is life.
On the other hand, sometimes in no way wants to wake up in the spring of some Clematis. Other buds scored, and this from the ground did not get out. Do not rush to put a cross on it, take a place to another plant. Maybe still wake up with great delay. It happens. Such is an unpredictable life.
Good luck and lotsenger winter to you and your plants!