Many of us have seen in the pictures the luxurious flowers of blue or pink hydrangea. But even when they bought such flowers in the nursery and planted them on their site, the color disappeared over time. What is the reason for this?
The color of hydrangea depends on the acidity of the soil: the pink scale appears on alkaline soils, and blue on acidic soils. In this case, the color can only be changed in broadleaf hydrangea, and initially it should not be either white or cream. The color change process is quite long, it takes 1-2 years.
Hydrangeas turn blue in response to aluminum in the soil. This requires two conditions:
1. The pH * of the soil should be slightly acidic (5.2-5.5). First, do a soil analysis to determine the existing pH. Adding aluminum sulfate to the soil will help lower the soil pH as needed.
2. Aluminum must be present in the soil. If your soil contains aluminum and its pH is low, your hydrangeas are likely already blue. But if you only have naturally acidic soil, you may need to add aluminum sulfate.
A fertilizer high in potassium and low in phosphorus will help maintain the blue color. Avoid superphosphate and bone meal, which are sometimes used for lush blooms.
For the color of the flowers to be true blue, you will have to apply aluminum several times during the year, especially if the soil has a high pH. The fact is that the soil quickly restores its original properties (including the original acidity). Deacidification occurs due to irrigation with neutral or alkaline water (this may be in your well or plumbing), due to rain and groundwater.
Caution: Not all plants tolerate acidic soil and nearby plants can be harmed. Always follow package directions when adding soil additives.
What and how to add?
Recommended for 1 sq. m add 500 g of dry aluminum sulfate. You can prepare a solution (15 g of aluminum sulfate / 4 l of water) and pour it on a 2-3 year old bush. Experts recommend watering twice with a solution of potassium alum (30-40 g / 1 bucket of water). For an adult bush with one watering - two or three buckets, otherwise the color change will be partial.
Once your hydrangea is bright blue or light blue, patiently create and maintain the required conditions for the color to last.
If the soil in the area is not acidic, you will need to keep the plant in a large container. So it is easier to control the composition of the soil and it is possible to halve the concentration of the aluminum sulfate solution during irrigation.
What plays a more significant role in the color - acidity of the soil or the presence of aluminum in it?
Scientists have shown that the presence of aluminum in the soil is more important for the acquisition of a blue color than increased acidity.
pH = 7 - neutral acidity.
pH more than 7 - low acidity (alkaline environment).
pH less than 7 - high acidity (acidic environment)
Pink hydrangea has been offered in many catalogs since 2008. This one is presented as a novelty, blooming on the shoots of the current year and suitable for growing in central Russia.
Some horticultural magazines state that such hydrangeas are cultivated only as container plants.
I want to tell you about a pink hydrangea that has been successfully growing and blooming in the gardens of flower growers in our city for at least ten years. Once this magnificent hydrangea was brought from the botanical garden of St. Petersburg.
Planting and wintering hydrangeas
Pink hydrangea has been growing in my garden for seven years. I bought it at the city market, in the form of a flowering seedling with a small clod of earth.
When planting hydrangeas, I prepared a hole 30 * 30cm. She put half a bucket of peat on the bottom, a handful of complete mineral fertilizers. After removing the inflorescence, she planted a hydrangea.
It was late July. The weather was hot. However, the hydrangea quite calmly endured the transplant. Until now, she grows in this place, being content with general feeding.
In the early years, I diligently kept the shoots of pink hydrangea in winter, pinning them to the ground with wire, covering them with peat and covering them with spruce branches. The shoots were preserved. But the flowers blooming from the buds of these shoots were stunted and small.
Now I'm doing it easier. Before the onset of autumn frosts, I sprinkle a pink hydrangea (to a height of 15 cm) with earth or fill it with a bucket of dry peat. I cut off the parts of the shoots that are above the shelter.
In this case, the hydrangea lays many buds just above the roots. It is from them that replacement shoots grow, which are crowned with huge caps of inflorescences.
Hydrangea bloom
Blooming pink hydrangea begins with the most powerful shoot in mid-July and continues until autumn.
First, the "caps" of the inflorescences are colored in green color and consist of small (1-1.5cm) flowers. Over time, the flowers increase in size and gradually turn pink, reaching a surprisingly clean color pink... The pedicel becomes the same color.
As a result, each individual flower of a pink hydrangea grows up to 3 cm; "caps" of inflorescences up to 30 cm in diameter are formed.
With abundant watering, the moisture-loving hydrangea grows well in a sunny place, forming strong shoots - even more powerful than in partial shade. But in the sun, pink flowers burn and lose their decorative effect.
For this reason, it is better to plant a pink hydrangea in partial shade.
Propagation of hydrangea
The pink hydrangea of this variety is beautifully cuttings.
For us, a hydrangea mother bush is growing in a greenhouse. We do not let him bloom, so he forms many shoots.
I start cutting hydrangea cuttings when the shoots grow up to 15 cm, usually at the beginning of June.
There is a little trick with hydrangea. The lower pair of leaves should be cut off without damaging the buds, and the cuttings should be cut 1-1.5 cm below these buds.
I keep the cut cuttings of hydrangea in Epin's solution for 12 hours.
Then I plant them at a depth of 3 cm. The lower buds of the cuttings must be underground. It is from them that the first shoots of replacement will go.
Hydrangea cuttings root well in soil with neutral acidity. Therefore, we do not create special conditions for them and put them in a common cuttings. We cover it with a thin covering material, and on top with a film.
With such a shelter for the cuttings, it is enough to water the seedlings once every 2-3 days, without suffering from constant spraying of the cuttings.
Care of young hydrangeas
For young hydrangeas the most difficult moment is the first wintering, we treat it very carefully.
In autumn, remove leaves from young hydrangeas. Cut off the grown plants to a height of 5 cm. Cover the plantings with dry peat with a layer of 4-5 cm. Put several spruce paws on the peat; cover with a covering material, and on top of it - with a film.
The pad is used so that an air gap remains under the film - then sheltered plants will not grow moldy.
In the spring, after the snow melts, we remove the spruce branches, and again raise the film with the covering material to arcs above the cuttings with overwintered hydrangeas.
A small number of young plants can be taken home for the first winter.
The pink hydrangea of this variety does not like the dry air of city apartments. Therefore, this plant is difficult to grow indoors.
It is advisable to place pots of pink hydrangea on a cool north window.
Spring cuttings of hydrangea
You can take home for the winter and an adult hydrangea for early cuttings. But it is imperative to keep the plant in a cool place.
We have for wintering garden plants a heated loggia has been prepared. In winter, the temperature here does not drop below +5 degrees.
The growth of shoots of pink hydrangea wintering in the house begins around mid-March.
By the end of April, the shoots of hydrangea can be drawn, and at the beginning of June they can be planted in open ground. Such plants already become strong by the end of the season. They will calmly endure wintering in the garden, and next year they can bloom.
Such a large-leaved pink hydrangea with large "caps" of inflorescences grows and blooms well in our area, although in winter thirty-degree frosts are not uncommon here.
Lyubov Vasilievna Teslenko (Udmurtia, Votkinsk)
www.lubates.narod.ru
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In my thirteen years of work on earth, I have gained some experience creating the Garden of my Dreams. In my garden, with an area of twelve acres, there are about four hundred species different plants, and I love everyone as I love my children, and I remember everyone by name.
Today I will tell you about the large-leaved hydrangea (pink). Why exactly about her? Because I live in the Moscow region, I communicate with amateurs - flower growers and noticed that there is no pink hydrangea in the gardens. Treelike hydrangea (white) is widespread, panicle hydrangea is found, but pink hydrangea is not! To the question: why, they answer that it does not hibernate in the middle lane, and if it hibernates, it does not bloom.
I want to dispel this myth, since I have pink hydrangeas wintering in open ground under cover for more than ten years, they bloom magnificently and are a decoration of the garden.
But first things first. I brought my first pink hydrangea bushes from the Krasnodar Territory, where they grow in open ground with practically no shelter. I planted them in different places: one in partial shade - on the south side, another - in the northeastern corner of the garden, the third - in the southwestern corner of the garden, where the sun comes in the afternoon.
I introduced humus, peat, sand into the pit, remembering that hydrangeas love acidic soil (PH in the range of 4.5 - 6.0), and watered abundantly, all hydrangeas are very moisture-loving plants. The bushes grew well, I fed them every two weeks: in May - June - with a mullein solution (1 liter per bucket of water) and a solution of mineral fertilizers: 10 grams of potassium and ammonium nitrate and 20 grams of superphosphate for 10 liters of water. Superphosphate in cold water does not dissolve, you need to fill it hot water, leave for a while, then stir. It is very useful to water hydrangeas with nettle infusion. When the buds appeared, I increased the dose of fertilizers: 40 grams. potassium sulfate and up to 60 gr. superphosphate per 10 liters of water. Two weeks later, the feeding was repeated. I will say right away: you cannot pour ash and lime under hydrangeas, this will deacidify the soil. When feeding with mineral fertilizers, it must be remembered that first we water the plant (any) with clean water, and then with fertilizers, so as not to burn the roots. After this planting, we mulch well with peat or humus or rotted coniferous litter.
In July - August, we exclude nitrogen fertilizers, leaving only potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. Do not forget to loosen the soil around the bush - hydrangea does not tolerate trampling. It is necessary to loosen carefully, since the roots lie close to the surface of the earth.
With such care, the bushes grew rapidly and after four years they were already lush bushes with large caps of flowers.
Hydrangea pink blooms until the end of September, and in late October - early November, the leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off. Then I cut off all the leaves, leave only on the crown, I also leave the faded flower caps and tilt the shoots with the help of arcs. In order not to scratch the bark with arcs, I put cardboard boxes. I water the bushes before winter, add fertilizers, peat, humus under the root - three buckets and cover the bushes with lutrasil or spunbod with a density of 40-60 units, and throw a film on top, saving the bushes from autumn dampness. In this case, the air must flow under the shelter.
With the onset of cold weather, I cover the bushes warmer: with dry sedge, glassine, film, and before severe frosts I also warm them with snow. All the years, hydrangeas wintered well, only the tops of their heads froze. But you need to know that the branches after wintering look ugly: they are black-brown, the buds do not appear for a long time, it seems that the bush is dead, but you do not need to panic and grab the pruner, you need patience and time. Do not rush to open the hydrangea bushes to the spring sun. When the snow melts, you need to remove all the shelter on a fine day, except for the lutrasil. Raise the branches, water, feed, loosen and cover with lutrasil again, but so that air flows under the shelter. I do not take off the shelter until the buds appear, and here it becomes clear what is frozen, what needs to be cut out, and what should be left.
I cut out frozen twigs to a living bud, cut out thin, weak, shriveled, as well as old branches (3-4 years old), but not all, but only one fourth part, that is, I cut one out of four old branches. I cut off the faded inflorescences, which I specially leave for the winter in order to better preserve the flower buds. I cut the branches for the cuttings. Watering, feeding again. The bush in the northeastern part of the garden on peat soil has grown more strongly, the diameter of its flowering branches is up to two meters. I use this bush for reproduction: I bend the branches to the ground, press down with a hairpin and cover them with humus soil, by August they root perfectly, but I plant them in the spring, not in the fall, since they all take root in the spring, and autumn plantings not always.
Cuttings of pink hydrangea take root very well, I keep them in a root solution overnight, and then I plant them in loose, garden soil in the shade, put arches over them, water them well and cover them with a double layer of lutrasil. I water it every other day, all the cuttings take root, moreover, some are already blooming in August. A cut hydrangea will always bloom.
In September when root system has already become strong, I prepare the soil (peat, humus, sand) and plant hydrangeas in pots, put them in the shade, keep them there until cold weather, water and spray. With the onset of cold weather, I cut off the leaves (except the tops) and put the pots in the basement, where the temperature is kept from + 3 ° to + 8 ° .. All winter I make sure that the soil does not dry out, and at the end of February-March I take all the pots out into the light, arrange on the windowsills, the hydrangea starts to grow. Now that the threat of return frosts has passed, they can be planted in open ground. The most important thing for young plants is to survive the first winter, and then during the season they will get stronger and winter well under cover. You can, of course, dig a bush in the fall and put it back in the basement, but then don't expect lush bushes.
I want to warn you that there are varieties of large-leaved hydrangea, in which the buds are tied on the apical bud, they must be preserved in winter, otherwise it will not bloom. I was lucky, I bought varieties, the flowering of which does not depend on the apical bud, even if half a branch is frozen, you cut it off, and instead of one cut, two or four branches appear at the same time and all bloom. Due to this, the bush becomes lush and luxurious.
Unfortunately, I do not know the varieties of my hydrangeas, as the sellers did not know any varieties.
Last year, I watered a large hydrangea bush twice with a solution of potassium sulfate (1 tablespoon per bucket of water) and - lo and behold! Half of the bush on the north side bloomed with sky-blue balls, and the south - pink. The sight was amazing.
Dear Florists! Plant a large-leaved hydrangea in your gardens, do not be afraid! With her, no more trouble than with any other plant, but your garden will become even richer and more beautiful.
Hydrangea - a good choice for garden decoration. This vibrant and delightful plant never ceases to delight many gardeners. It is used for a variety of ideas in landscape design projects when planting and nursing outdoors.
General information
Growing in the form of a bush, hydrangea can reach one and a half meters in height with round bunches of inflorescences, different colors... When planting, the dimensions of the future plant should be taken into account and the distance between the bushes should be maintained.
If you choose the right planting location and provide the necessary moisture conditions, then the hydrangea will delight the eye. bright colors and a healthy look for a very long time, while not requiring special care. It is good to plant it, both one at a time and in rows, for example, along the path to the house or in a semicircle around the gazebo.
Hydrangea varieties with photos and names
It is a shrub up to three meters high, on which young shoots with inflorescences at the ends are formed every year. At first, the flowers have a greenish tint, which soon turns into white or cream. Among the representatives of this species are distinguished: pink ("Invincibelle Spirit") , white ("Sterilist") having profuse flowering, "Anabel" and "Grandiflora"(this name is also among representatives of panicle hydrangea) with lush white inflorescences.
Bluebird serrated hydrangea - a sprawling plant 1.5 m tall, capable of changing the color of inflorescences from pale blue to pink, depending on the acidity of the soil.
Serrated hydrangea Preciosa - has very beautiful flat yellowish-green inflorescences, and then crimson. Winter-hardy species, withstands frost up to -20 ° C.
It looks like a shrub or even a tree, 2-5 meters high. It is incredible, but in one place it can grow for more than forty years. Shoots tend to grow stiff, which contributes to better tolerance to the cold. Inflorescences grow every year at the ends of new shoots, the color goes from light green to white, at the beginning of flowering, then they turn pink and at the end turns green again.
Hydrangea Vanilla Fraise ("Vanille Fraise") - has a pyramidal shape of inflorescences, in everyday life it is compared with a vanilla-strawberry cone, because of its color and shape. At first, the hydrangea has white flowers, and then Bottom part begins to acquire a more intense pink hue. It grows as a bush up to 1.5-2 m high. Blooms from July to September. Shoots are brown-red in color, tough, but bend under the weight of the inflorescences, which creates a spherical appearance of the bush.
Hydrangea Pinky Winky
An adult plant reaches two meters in height. The shape of the bush is spherical and does not fall apart. The cone-shaped inflorescences change from white to purple-pink closer to autumn.
Hydrangea Phantom - blooms for a long time and luxuriantly, grows quickly, is not afraid of frost, can be grown both in the form of a bush and decorated in a tree. On average, it can grow up to 30 years. Has a honey aroma of inflorescences. Rarely sick.
Hydrangea Grandiflora ("Grandiflora") - resistant to frost, but young shoots are nevertheless cut off before wintering, over time they get stronger. The flowers are conical, reddish-brown. Leaves are dark green matte (slightly velvety).
Hydrangea Lime Light ("Limelight") consists of dense inflorescences of a light green hue, acquiring a pink tint by autumn. Dark green, slightly velvety, oblong and pointed at the end of the leaves. The shrub has a rounded shape up to 1.5 meters high.
Hydrangea Pink Diamond ("Pink Diamond") - differs in narrowly pyramidal inflorescences of bright pink color, acquiring a darker color closer to the end of flowering (from July to September). Hardy, but young shoots are pruned.
Hydrangea Kyushu
Shrub, up to 3 meters high, has a rather graceful shape with light, not dense, conical inflorescences white with honey aroma. The leaves have a glossy finish.
Hydrangea Tardiva ("Tardiva") - differs in late flowering (from September to the first frost) and narrow conical inflorescences.
Hydrangea Bobo ("BoBo") - a dwarf form of paniculate hydrangea, has conical inflorescences of a light green hue, which turn pink over time. The height of the bush is up to 70 cm.
Hydrangea Weems Red ("Wim's Red") - differs in a longer flowering period (from July to October). Large inflorescences(30-35 cm) white, then they acquire a ruby tint.
Hydrangea Diamond Rouge ("Diamand Rouge") - this variety stands out among others with the most saturated red shade of inflorescences. Bush up to 1.5 m high.
It is characterized by dense foliage of bright green color, the shape of the inflorescences in the form of an umbrella (like viburnum), and the colors are blue, purple, blue.
- absolutely not winter-hardy, therefore, it requires insulation for the winter. It has not only beautiful long inflorescences (20-30 cm) with lush white bloom, but also an unusual shape for hydrangea leaves (sharp with jagged edges, like oak leaves), color (red) and size (about 25 cm). It usually blooms in the middle of summer, and closer to the end of flowering, the white flowers turn purple. This species grows up to two meters.
Or omnipresent - a type of hydrangea, frost-resistant. Dark green leaves (20 cm long) have a glossy front and a rough back. It blooms in mid-summer with white loose inflorescences, ending with a pink tint.
This type is used to decorate columns, gazebos, arches and other things, in the form of hanging vines, since petioled hydrangea, reaching 25 meters in height, can braid structures, fasten with air suction cups, or creep along the ground. The flowers are pale pink (diameter 25 cm), quickly fall off. Shoots are red-brown with dark green leaves.
Or gray ... Used by gardeners as a hedge. Reaches 2 meters in height, has oval, membranous, pale green leaves and small flowers.
Hydrangea planting and care in the open field
Hydrangea is very fond of shade and partial shade, is afraid of direct sunlight, which slows down the growth and development of the plant, the inflorescences are small and underdeveloped.
Plants are planted in spring, in warm soil, when there is no fear of night frosts. Hydrangea does not tolerate lime in the soil. The ground should be loose.
You can also familiarize yourself with the rules for keeping a room hydrangea for home care.
Fertilizer for hydrangeas
Hydrangea is demanding on the composition and moisture content of the soil and, therefore, organic and mineral fertilizers are applied during planting. After that, periodic feeding is required (twice a month).
Be careful with nitrogen fertilizers, its excess can harm the plant's resistance to frost.
Hydrangea watering
Hydrangea is a moisture-loving plant, therefore, after planting, it is thoroughly watered and mulched, due to sawdust, needles or peat. This will keep the soil moist for longer.
It is better to use rainwater, if tap water, then only settled (but this can cause chlorosis of the leaves). As for the amount of liquid, each bush needs about two buckets of water per week. Water in the morning and evening, when the sun is not so hot, otherwise the water will quickly evaporate.
Shelter hydrangea for the winter
Many species do not require shelter for the winter, but some, especially fragile, young and not resistant to frost, need protection.
Propagation of hydrangea by cuttings
As cuttings, it is better to take those that are cut out during thinning. The lower leaves break off. The prepared shoots are inserted under a slight slope into the ground (after adding coarse grained sand).
A cut plastic bottle is put on top, or glass jar... The planting site should be in the shade, and watch out for humidity. For permanent residence, the rooted plant is transplanted after three years.
Growing hydrangeas from seeds
Sowing is carried out in the fall. The substrate should be loose and nutritious, consisting of a mixture of leafy, turfy soil and river sand (4: 2: 1). After sowing the seeds into prepared boxes, sprinkle them on top with the same soil, moisten them with a spray bottle and cover with foil or glass.
Periodically moisten the earth and monitor the temperature (15-20 ° C). After 1-1.5 months, seedlings will appear that need to be thinned out. When the seedlings grow up and 2-3 leaves appear, they are transplanted into separate pots with a diameter of 7 cm and continue to leave.
In the summer, these pots are displayed on Fresh air but keep out of direct sunlight, rain and drafts. And in winter, they are brought into a cool dry room. Only three years later, the hydrangea is planted in open ground, and during this time the inflorescences are torn off from it, so as not to weaken the growth of the plant itself.
Diseases and pests of hydrangea
- It happens that in the ground lack of iron and magnesium (chlorosis) ... As a result, the leaves on the plant turn yellow, brighten, and the veins remain dark. This occurs in alkaline soils. It has long been known that in such cases, iron objects (nails, horseshoes, iron cans, etc.) must be buried in the ground, next to the plant. But that was then, and today, there are more effective method- treat with iron chelate or ferrous sulfate.
- The plant becomes brown, rots - fungal infection (white rot). As a result, shoots and leaves darken, begin to rot and become covered with "cobwebs" or "cotton wool". Phytosporin or other fungicides are used as treatment.
- Holes in the leaves or dark spots(dries up) - defeat by gray mold. Some parts of the leaf begin to die off and dry out, and in wet weather, the rapid spread of the disease contributes to the appearance of cobwebs in these places. Treatment: the damaged parts are removed, and the plant is treated with pure flowers or foundation.
- Yellow-green spots on the leaves , which eventually acquire a brown color - the defeat of powdery mildew. At the same time, a bloom of a purple or metallic hue is visible on the back of the sheet. Treatment: spraying with fungicides.
- Hydrangea septoria affects the leaves, and if the disease is started, it also spreads to young stems and petioles. It appears as brown, rounded spots. Treatment: copper sulfate, copper oxychloride, etc.
- No buds or they are small - ring spot of hydrangeas. At the beginning of the disease, uneven, vague spots in the form of rings appear on the leaves, the leaves begin to wrinkle and lose their symmetry. Not subject to treatment. This is a viral disease, which means that the seedling was weak.
Gartense pests
- Eaten leaves and buds - the result of the work of snails. You can get rid of, using chemicals, they must be decomposed in special containers around the bush so as not to clog the soil.
- If from the back of the sheet appeared yellow spots , and over time, the affected leaf dries up and falls off, then this is a spider mite. If the infection is neglected, then you can see a cobweb with mites. Treatment: insectoacaricides and acaricides, at the initial stage, you can try to treat it with soapy water.
- Aphid - sucks the juice from the plant. It settles on the bottom of the sheet. Treatment: you can try to wash it off with soapy water and a sponge, if it does not help, then treat it with insecticides.
When to plant a hydrangea? The best time for planting is spring, the moment when the earth thaws, the buds have not yet blossomed, and autumn is in the month of September. When choosing a place for an ornamental deciduous plant, keep in mind that it is better to plant a hydrangea in the shade or partial shade, since the bright sun causes slower growth, as a result of which the inflorescences become smaller.
Some types of hydrangeas can be grown in open, sunny areas, but abundant watering is required. It is advisable to protect young shrubs from the bright sun and strong winds. It is not recommended to be placed under trees that strongly absorb water.
The soil for hydrangea should be well-drained and moistened, consisting of a balanced mixture of humus, leafy soil, peat chips, river sand (2: 2: 1: 1). Regardless of the type and variety of hydrangea, remember that lime in the soil has a negative effect on development. The soil should have a Ph level of about 5.0.
Planting hydrangeas outdoors
In the northern regions of the country, planting hydrangeas in open ground is preferable in the spring, in southern regions, including in the Kuban, the procedure is carried out in the fall. It is recommended to equip a planting pit for beautiful bush, the dimensions of which are 0.4 m in diameter and 0.4-0.5 m deep. When planting, be guided by the size of the root system, if it is too large, increase the volume of the fossa. It is worth noting that the roots of the hydrangea are quite branched.
Garden hydrangea planting and caring for a flower cultivation and reproduction wintering reviews of florists
Nadezhda Smezhinskaya, accountant, 41 years old:
“For me, Hortense is flawlessly beautiful. Her elegant caps are reminiscent of white foam. For several months they decorate my site, and they grow in the shade - where other plants refuse to bloom. Interestingly, the inflorescences bloom very slowly, so that I can enjoy its flowering. As for leaving, I consider Hortense unpretentious plant although it needs to be watered regularly. "
Marina Kalyuzhnaya, a convinced summer resident, 48 years old:
“My beloved Hydrangea resembles a long-lasting decorative bouquet. Let me tell you one secret - the rich shade of flowers depends on the composition of the soil. So, if the soil has a high iron content, then the flowers will be purple or blue, and if not, they will remain pink. By the way, blue hydrangea blooms at me worse than the usual white. The good news is that the plant is undemanding to care for. In the middle of summer, my Hydrangea pleases with huge balls of flowers, and therefore this the best place on the site for photo sessions.
Irina Lysenko, manager, 29 years old:
“My Hydrangea bush grew very quickly and the very next summer pleased me with huge snow-white caps of flowers. Surprisingly, the bush wintered well under an elementary shelter of fallen leaves. Next year I plan to divide the overgrown bush and start forming a living hedge - I can imagine what a great sight it will be in the summer. "
Olga Gerasimovna, pensioner, 63 years old:
“There is a little secret how pink hydrangea turn into blue. To do this, aluminum salts (sulfur or sulfate) should be added to the soil. And if you do it unevenly, then at the same time inflorescences of different shades will appear on the same shrub. "
Stanislav, an experienced gardener, 44 years old:
“Previously, the question of why Hortense does not bloom was decided unequivocally - it had a bad winter. However, now, thanks to the breeding of frost-resistant varieties by breeders, such as vanilla freise, endless summer, airlie sense, etc., flowering occurs on almost all young shoots, regardless of whether the buds were preserved over the winter or not. "
Natalia, housewife, 36 years old:
"Hydrangeas can be grown not only in flower beds, but also in tubs or containers that can be easily moved anywhere (to the garden, house or terrace and back)."
Hydrangea large-leaved cultivation and care FloweryValeru
Large-leaved hydrangea(Hydrangea macrophylla) - grows into a real shrub in favorable places for growth. Hydrangea is also called Hydrangia, which is translated from Greek as a vessel of water, which suggests that hydrangea is hygrophilous plant... In total, there are 80 types of hydrangeas in the world, common in America and East Asia.
V late XIX For centuries, hydrangea was brought from Japan to Europe, where its triumphant march began. It was in Europe, namely in France, that large-leaved hydrangea varieties were bred. But, unfortunately, the large-leaved hydrangea is less winter-hardy compared to other species, for example, the petiolate hydrangea. Therefore, when growing large-leaved hydrangea in gardens under conditions middle lane Russia should know that it hardly hibernates without winter shelter.
The leaves of the large-leaved hydrangea are large, ovoid, opposite, in spring and summer they are bright green, by autumn they begin to turn red, so that the hydrangea bush remains decorative for almost the entire season.
Hydrangea flowers large, about 3 cm in diameter, mostly pink, collected in large corymbose inflorescences up to 15 - 20 cm in diameter. In new varietal forms of hydrangea, flowers can be white, pink and even blue. Hydrangea blooms in July, but the flowers do not fall, but only become slightly greenish and remain on the branches until next spring. Hydrangea - very ornamental plant, it's not for nothing that she fell in love with many flower growers.
Large-leaved hydrangea used to be grown mainly only as a house pot plant. But with the development of new frost-resistant varieties, it became possible Growing hydrangeas in the garden.
Soil for hydrangea
Hydrangea prefers slightly - or moderately acidic (pH 5.5) soil; The composition of the soil for hydrangea: sod and leafy soil, sand, peat, humus in equal proportions 1: 1: 1: 1: 1. It should be remembered that hydrangea suffers greatly from lime in the soil, so you need Monitor the maintenance of soil acidity.
Hydrangea has one more feature: it can change the color of flowers depending on the acidity of the soil, and by the color of the inflorescences you can easily guess about the reaction of the soil: pink inflorescences on soils with a slightly alkaline reaction, blue and even blue on acidic soils.
Before planting my hydrangea, I went into the forest for the ground. I dug up a whole bag of soft soil under the pine trees, along with needles and cones. It is in this land that my hydrangea grows. The flowers are pink. So far, I haven't experimented with changing the color of flowers, but I think I have everything ahead. I also want to see the blue hydrangea flowers.
Pick-up location
Large-leaved hydrangea is relatively light-requiring, but still try it Land in light partial shade... Hydrangeas are never planted under trees, as they absorb a lot of moisture from the soil. In the sun, hydrangea may suffer from dry soil, in the shade it will bloom later, flowering will not be as abundant as on open place and the inflorescences may even be smaller... Therefore, try to find a middle ground. I chose a place for her that the base of the bush always remains in the shade, in the sun only the upper part of the hydrangea.
Planting hydrangeas
It is advisable to plant a large-leaved hydrangea in open ground in the spring, after the threat of frost has passed and the soil warms up. If you have several bushes, hydrangeas, then keep the distance between the plants at a distance of one meter. If the hydrangea seedling is small, then a shallow hole is enough: 35x35x35 cm. If the plant is already large, then the hole should be made larger. Don't forget about drainage. Fill the hole with the ready-made earthen mixture.
Organic and complete mineral fertilizers are applied at the same time. They will help the formation of flower buds next year. After watering The soil under the hydrangea needs to be mulched... Mulch will allow the soil to stay moist longer, which is the main condition for growing hydrangeas. Pine needles, peat, sawdust are perfect for mulch. The thickness of the mulch layer should be about 10 cm. During the summer, the mulch is loosened 2-3 times. A hydrogel can be used to retain moisture in the soil under the hydrangea.
Watering hydrangea
Water for watering hydrangeas should be soft, as they do not tolerate lime. The most ideal will be rainwater... If there is no rain for a long time, then the tap water should settle, warm up. But know that with constant use tap water chlorosis of the leaves is still possible. Therefore, to soften the water when watering hydrangeas, periodically add lemon juice, vinegar, a drop of electrolyte. The introduction of iron salts into the soil, for example, ferrophyte, iron chelate, and ferrous sulfate, will help to avoid leaf chlorosis. remember, that Hydrangea loves moisture very much: one bush per week should receive at least two buckets of water. During intermittent rains or when using mulch, hydrangea can be watered once a month.
Top dressing
As we already know, the color of hydrangea flowers can change from the acidity of the soil. If you add iron salts and alum (crystals) twice a month, then the color of the flowers will turn blue or blue. Try adding alum to the soil on one side of the bush and not adding alum on the other. This technique will allow you to get a different color of inflorescences: both blue flowers and pink ones will bloom at the same time. Eight to ten ammonia-potassium or potassium alum is dissolved in two liters of water. This solution is enough to feed one bush. Also, to color the hydrangea flowers blue, you can use a bluing substance. It can be purchased at flower shops.
But it is better to forget about feeding the hydrangea with ash right away. In spring, hydrangea is very responsive to organic feeding, for example, mullein solution. In addition to alum and iron salts, mineral fertilizers for heather, rhododendrons and azaleas or acidic mineral fertilizers such as ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate are suitable for hydrangeas.
Fertilization phases:
- in the spring, at the beginning of growth (for the formation of new strong shoots);
- in June, during the budding period (for correct and abundant bud formation);
- in summer, during flowering (for long flowering and new flower buds for the next year).
In the first year of planting hydrangeas in the ground, watering with a weak solution of manganese is possible so that the shoots do not rot. Any other fungicide, such as phytosporin, will work instead of manganese.
Shelter hydrangea for the winter
Towards fall, start preparing your hydrangea for winter. If the weather is dry, water it. remember, that Hydrangea will tolerate frost better if you received enough water in the fall. Do not forget to sprinkle with Bordeaux mixture in the fall so that the branches do not sprinkle in the winter shelter and to neutralize fungal diseases.
In the second half of October, when night frosts are already observed, hydrangea bushes are spud up to a height of 30 cm.Not yet severe frosts, on top of the bush can be covered with agrospan or perforated polyethylene film in two layers. In late October - early November, bend the branches of the hydrangea to the ground, cover with dry leaves, spruce branches. Place a box or box on top. They cover the hydrangea for the winter in the same way as roses.
Garden hydrangea planting and care in the open field pruning
Hydrangea - ornamental shrub with large, stunning beauty, inflorescences. However, for all its splendor, this plant is rarely found in Russian gardens especially in regions with cold winters. This is due to the reputation of a heat-loving sissy, which is entrenched in the bush. Let's try to figure it out Is hydrangea really only adapted to southern climates?, or domestic gardeners ignore it in vain. And also consider the features of planting and caring for garden hydrangea in the open field.
- How to care
- Pruning
- Preparing for winter
All about garden panicle hydrangea (pink, blue, white): types, subtleties of care
Garden hydrangea, it is large-leaved, differs from other varieties in short stature, and at the same time simply in huge lush inflorescences.
Flowers of pink and blue shades delight the eye from July to October. This makes the plant a desirable tool for gardening.
The only drawback of the large-leaved panicle hydrangea is its low resistance to cold. The maximum allowable temperature drop for a plant is –18 degrees.
The native land of the shrub is the tropical island of Mauritius. There, as well as in other areas with a warm climate, the plant It is customary to plant in the fall... In our country, this is possible only in the gardens on the Black Sea coast.
And for the Ural region with its harsh winters, it is suitable Spring planting only... The hydrangea planted in autumn will not have time to get stronger before the onset of cold weather and will freeze out.
And even if it leaves in spring, it is no longer worth waiting for flowering from such a plant.
In the southern regions, hydrangea is planted in the fall, in the northern regions - in the spring.
When to plant in open ground in the Urals: in autumn or spring?
You can start landing, When the snow had already melted and a stable temperature of +10 .. + 12 degrees was established, but the buds on the trees have not yet blossomed.
The only option in which the time of planting hydrangeas in open ground shifts closer to summer is to purchase a seedling in a pot with a closed root system in the nursery.
Large-leaved hydrangea - care, shelter for the winter:
Secrets of growing and choosing a place for planting a flower
Half of the success comes from choosing the right landing site. The appearance of the future plant depends on it.
In a sunny area, the hydrangea will bloom earlier, and her inflorescences will be larger than when grown in the shade.
But intense heat also negatively affects the plant, so it is worth choosing a place where the sun shines brightly before lunch, and from the second half of the day there is partial shade.
Low-lying areas will not work either., or with a close location groundwater... The shrub is moisture-loving, but from excessive moisture in autumn period becomes even less adapted to winter.
There are no special requirements for the soil... It can even be podzolic or sandy. But best of all, the plant develops on su clay soils with neutral or slightly high acidity.
If your soil does not meet the required pH level, You can acidify it with peat or pine needles.... Or purchase a ready-made soil mixture, the same ones are suitable for hydrangeas as for azaleas or rhododendrons.
The planting site should be sunny, with acidic soil.
The direct planting process includes the following stages:
When a hedge is formed from hydrangea bushes, a ditch is dug, and seedlings are planted in it with a distance of 1.5 m between them.
How to care
Caring for an adult plant includes the following steps:
- Watering;
- Fertilization;
- Garter;
- Pruning.
Hydrangea loves moisture, therefore Watering she needs regular... Care must be taken to ensure that the soil underneath does not dry out. In this case, only warm and settled water is used.
With the onset of spring, the shrub needs feeding.... Urea is used first. A solution is prepared from it in a ratio of 20 g per 1 bucket. An adult plant needs 3 buckets of solution.
At the beginning of summer, organic matter should be decomposed under the bush - manure, humus or compost. The last feeding is carried out in the fall, at which time complex mineral fertilizers are recommended.
Fertilization promotes the active growth of the plant, which forms larger leaves and inflorescences.
This, in turn, requires the implementation of the next event - a garter. Tying large branches will keep them from breaking off..
Caring for an adult plant includes watering, pruning, tying and feeding
Pruning
Another important action in the care of hydrangea is pruning. Without pruning the branches, you will not have a beautiful ornamental shrub.
Pruning is in autumn and spring:
Given the plant's inability to tolerate cold, The main event for caring for him is preparing for the winter.... This is especially true for the northern regions.
Garden hydrangeas - the difference between species and pruning methods:
Preparing for winter
Garden hydrangea won't survive the winter without shelter... Moreover, it should be under it long enough until the risk of spring frosts passes.
A plant opened too early may freeze flower buds, and then flowering this year will not take place.
The time to set up the shelter will be late October - early November. But you need to look at the weather, the main thing is to have time to do it before the first serious frost.
A pyramid is being built over the bush any covering material is placed from small boards and on top of the structure - lutrasil, agrotex or some other. For additional insulation you can also put spruce branches on it.
The root zone is covered with peat, sawdust or dry leaves. And the final stage is carried out with the onset of winter, covering the shelter with snow.
It is necessary to disassemble the shelter gradually, starting in early spring. The last layer of insulation is removed only when a stable positive temperature is established.
A pyramid of small boards is built over the bush and any covering material is placed on top of the structure
Protection against diseases and pests
Garden hydrangea Practically not susceptible to any diseases, but this does not mean that she does not need to be looked after. Problems can arise only through the fault of the gardener himself.
Most diseases are spread through seedlings. Therefore, purchase seedlings only in safe places - large nurseries. If you propagate the plant by cuttings, make sure that the parent plant is healthy.
Also, illnesses can be caused by improper care:
Of the pests on garden hydrangeas, you can find:
Diseases and pests of hydrangea: chlorosis, white and gray rot, powdery mildew, aphids, spider mites, snails
Growing a garden hydrangea requires some effort.... This is especially true for the northern regions. But the beauty and duration of this flowering luxurious plant more than pays for all the time and labor costs.
You should not be afraid of his thermophilicity either, With proper care, this southern bush will feel great in the middle lane, in the Urals and even in Siberia.
HORTENSIA correct planting and care outdoors PHOTOS
We describe planting and caring for hydrangeas in spring and autumn (tree, large-leaved (garden), paniculate and petiolate). Consider the place, soil, planting rules and step-by-step instructions, as well as watering, feeding, pruning and preparing for winter (Moscow region, North-West, Ural, Siberia and southern regions).
Planting hydrangeas in open ground: location, soil, distance and depth
- 1 Planting hydrangeas in open ground: location, soil, distance and depth
- 1.1 Step-by-step instruction planting hydrangeas
- 1.2 When is the best time to plant hydrangea? Spring or Autumn?
- 1.3 Care of hydrangea after planting
- 2 Care for garden hydrangea: growing secrets
- 2.1 Top dressing
- 2.2 Watering the hydrangea
- 3 Correct Hydrangea Pruning: Spring and Fall
- 3.1 Group No. 1 (large-leaved hydrangea (garden), prickly, serrate, oak-leaved, Sargent and petiolate)
- 3.2 Group No. 2 (tree and paniculate)
- 4 Care for hydrangea in the fall and preparation for winter
- 4.1 Preparing for winter and sheltering hydrangeas
- 5 Diseases and pests
- 6 Why doesn't hydrangea bloom in the garden? What to do?
- 6.1 How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?
- 7 Useful Tips hydrangea care
The plant is thermophilic, fast-growing and needs fertile soil and sufficient moisture.
We describe planting in open ground for any type of hydrangea: oak-leaved, large-leaved (garden), paniculate, serrate, tree-like, petiolate, Sargent and others.
Pick-up location
Hydrangea (all types) is a light-loving plant, it grows well in a sunny and open place, but bright sun and strong wind must be avoided. Therefore, at the peak of the heat, light shading is necessary, she very much loves diffused light.
At the same time, the shrub is able to grow well in light partial shade, in this case it later blooms with fewer flowers. It is very important to have sun rays in the morning, in the morning. Therefore, the east side is better suited than the west side.
Soil and acidity
Hydrangea grows well on fertile, humus-rich clay soils. It develops worse on red earth, and sandy soils are contraindicated.
The optimum acidity level is pH 5.2-6.0 (slightly acidic soil). The maximum brightness of inflorescences is observed precisely on acidic soil, and on neutral soil, slow development and pale color.
Alkaline soil leads to chlorosis (yellowing of the leaves). When the bush grows on alkaline soil, there is often a lack of iron and magnesium, which is manifested by light and pale color of the leaves.
Therefore, acidify the soil or treat the bush with iron chelate. In past centuries, gardeners buried iron items (nails, a bank, a horseshoe).
When planting, prepare a special balanced soil mixture with fertilizers.
Soil mix
Composition: humus, sod land, leafy soil and peat - equal parts or humus, garden soil (black soil), peat and sand - 2: 2: 1: 1. And also nutrients: 20-25 grams (tablespoon + teaspoon) of carbamide (urea), 24-29 grams of potassium sulfate (two tablespoons) and 60-70 grams of superphosphate (150-250 grams of bone meal).
If spruce and pine trees grow nearby, then under them you can dig up light, loose and slightly acidic soil. Some gardeners successfully grow flowers in such soil, even without fertilizing when planting.
A complete ban is lime, chalk and wood ash.
Landing distance
Large-leaved - 120-160 cm, and paniculate 140-240 cm between bushes, and from the nearest large shrubs and trees - 230-300 cm.If you want to plant hydrangea in a row ( hedge, "Mixborder"), then you can dig a trench 90-110 cm wide.
If you want to achieve more early flowering, then when planting, dig holes closer to each other (70-80 cm), and after 2-3 years, thin out the bushes if necessary.
Landing pit
Depth - 36-45, width - 51-65 cm. The roots grow mainly in breadth, extending much further than the crown.
Planting depth
The root collar should be at the level of the soil, a maximum of 2-3 cm lower, otherwise the flower will develop poorly.
Step-by-step instructions for planting hydrangeas
When is the best time to plant hydrangea? Spring or Autumn?
Best planting time: spring - early May and autumn - September. At the same time, the most favorable period to plant hydrangea in cold climates is only spring, and in more southern regions it can be planted in spring and autumn.
Hydrangea care after planting
Preparing for flowering
For the first two years, cut the inflorescences at the bud stage (“pea”). And then the plant will direct all its forces to the development of the root system and the aboveground part, which will ensure better flowering in subsequent years.
- Watering, feeding, pruning and preparing for winter - see the relevant sections.
Hydrangea garden care: growing secrets
Flower care consists of watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter. Spring is the best time to add mulch to the trunk circle for more moisture retention. Spread sawdust, peat, pine needles or chips 7-8 cm in a layer, 24-30 cm in diameter.
Top dressing
When planting hydrangeas in a soil mixture with fertilizers, you do not need to feed for the first two years. General rule dressing until July, acidic fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate), and from July to October potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (bone meal, superphosphate).
The need for a plant nutrients ah tall as it grows rapidly and blooms vigorously.
Mineral fertilizers can be supplemented with organic: infusion of mullein or bird droppings - 1:10. Repeat feeding after 13-16 days.
- For feeding, it is not recommended to use wood ash... Fertilizers work well for heather species and rhododendron.
- Avoid an excess of nitrogen, which leads to a decrease in winter hardiness, deterioration of flowering and promotes the development of rot. Use only in April - May.
- Important! An overabundance of fertilizers, especially organic fertilizers (mullein, droppings) will do more harm than a lack.
Watering hydrangea
The flower is moisture-loving and needs regular watering. Drought is contraindicated, the lack of a sufficient amount of moisture leads to developmental disruption.
In dry and hot weather, water every 7-8 days with 15-20 liters of water. The usual schedule is 15-25 liters of water every 13-16 days, and if it is rainy summer, then 4-5 times per season.
The lack of moisture in the fall reduces the winter hardiness of the plant, so if there is little rain in the fall, then additional watering is required.
Periodically add 2-3 grams of potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation to prevent the development of rot. Soft water works best for watering.
It is better to water in the morning or in the evening in the trunk circle, when there is no scorching sun. After each watering, it is advisable to loosen the soil 5-6 cm deep around the plant.
Pruning hydrangeas correctly: spring and fall
All species tolerate pruning well and need it, but each has its own characteristics. Pruning in the spring can only be carried out from 3-4 years of age. The most common types of hydrangeas in Russian gardens are divided into two groups according to the type of pruning.
Group No. 1 (large-leaved hydrangea (garden), prickly, serrate, oakleaf, Sargent and petiolate)
These species bloom on last year's shoots and need sanitary and cosmetic pruning. The optimal pruning time - as soon as the buds are a little swollen, there is no active movement of juices, plus such trimmed shoots can be rooted. Let's talk about the example of a garden hydrangea.
Large-leaved hydrangea (macrophile) cannot be cut off, but can only be rejuvenated. Every spring, prune every fourth branch over 3 years old, especially the one growing inward, so that the bush does not thicken, as well as dead, weak (thin) or broken stems at the root. Such trimming besides giving more decorative form improves flowering.
Spring pruning of garden hydrangea (large-leaved)
Exception: modern varieties from the series "Forever and ever", "You & Me", as well as varieties "MiniPenny", which bloom on the shoot of the first and previous years. They are pruned depending on the condition of the plant and the past wintering.
- Petiolate hydrangea is poorly pruned: long stems are shortened for better branching.
Group No. 2 (tree and paniculate)
These species blooming on young shoots (current season) are pruned every year before bud break. Best moment: mid to late March (as soon as the snow melts). An annual formative pruning is required, as if the flower thickens, the inflorescences will become smaller.
Advice
- To thin out the bush, remove the old, weak and growing inward shoots completely annually.
- Cut off the frozen stems to the first living bud.
Bush rejuvenation
It is easy to rejuvenate an old bush with the help of special pruning: cut off all shoots at a height of 5-7 cm from ground level ("under the stump") or to the level of perennial wood. Next spring, young shoots will begin to grow, and the decorative effect of the bush will be restored.
Should I prune my hydrangea for the winter?
In the fall, the faded inflorescences are cut off at the hydrangea without fail, so that the branches do not break under the weight of the snow.
Stamp form
Paniculata hydrangea can be grown in the form of a tree - a low stem. Choose one of the most developed shoot on a two-year-old plant grown from an apical cut, and cut off the rest. Then cut this shoot to the strongest bud each year in the spring, until it reaches 100 cm in height.
To form a crown in the following years, pinch the top of the shoot, and remove the new shoots completely. In the future, weak shoots are cut off annually and only 4-5 strongest branches are left for bushiness.
An example of a standard form of hydrangea paniculata
Hydrangea care in the fall and preparation for winter
After flowering, care for hydrangea in the fall consists in removing faded inflorescences and preparing for winter.
- Treelike hydrangea can not be covered for the winter, mulching is enough - it has high winter hardiness.
- In the conditions of the Middle Belt, Moscow Region, North-West, the Urals and Siberia, be sure to cover the hydrangea for the winter, and it is better to dig up the large-leaved hydrangea, transplant it into pots and bring it into the house.
Since this species can be grown in areas where the temperature in winter is not lower than -23.5 ° C. The exception is some modern winter-hardy varieties mentioned in the "pruning" section. - In more southern and warmer areas, hilling and mulching can be dispensed with.
Preparing for winter and sheltering hydrangeas
Inflorescences appear on last year's shoots (large-leaved hydrangea), and the goal is to completely preserve them from frost and damping.
Since the leaves and flowers large-leaved hydrangea die from small frosts at night, preparations for winter begin in mid - late October (after the first frosts).
- Hydrangea garden paniculate and large-leaved must be covered for the winter.
Preparing hydrangeas for winter 
Shelter hydrangea for the winter 
Top layer of winter shelter for hydrangea
For short-term frosts, it is convenient to cover with lutrasil, white burlap or a double layer of film.
Shelter of a large-leaved hydrangea for the winter from a gardener from the Moscow region
Shelter for the winter of a young hydrangea
Young seedlings are not pruned, but simply brought into the house in pots for the winter or covered with earth and additionally covered with a layer of peat, dry foliage, pine needles or sawdust for the winter.
When can you open a hydrangea after winter?
In the spring, you need to remove the winter shelter from the hydrangea in the right time to prevent the shoots from drying out.
The approximate dates for the Moscow region are indicated.
Hydrangea winter hardiness
Now the large-leaved hydrangea is increasingly grown in the conditions of central Russia and in the Moscow region, in the Urals and Siberia. However, not all winter-hardy varieties are able to bloom in any area due to the different microclimate.
The plant can withstand up to -23 ° C, and the most winter-hardy are treelike, paniculate and ground cover hydrangeas.
The winter hardiness of a plant increases if it received a sufficient amount of water in the fall, as well as potassium-phosphorus fertilization.
Diseases and pests
Hydrangea is very resistant to diseases and pests, but sometimes it is still affected by powdery mildew, spider mites and aphids (more often in greenhouses).
Why doesn't hydrangea bloom in the garden? What to do?
We will list the most common reasons for not blooming.
How to speed up hydrangea flowering?
To make the bush bloom faster, sprinkle it as soon as the inflorescences become 2-4 cm in diameter twice with an interval of 5-7 days with gibberellins - 50 mg / liter of water. This treatment allows you to bloom 2-4 weeks earlier and get more massive and decorative flowering.
How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?
The flowers of the plant can change their color depending on the acidity of the soil and the ability to accumulate aluminum.
Water the bush with a solution of potassium alum (100 g / 10 liters of water). To change the color, you need to spend 3-4 waterings every 12-15 days. Therefore, watering begins 50-70 days before flowering.
After that, the white or pink flowers (slightly alkaline soil) will turn blue or blue, depending on the concentration. At the same time, alum reduces acidity, so you need to use them carefully. The price of 100 g of alum is about 30-50 rubles.
- If you want to dry hydrangea inflorescences for the winter, then cut them off immediately after all the flowers bloom. Tie in small bunches and hang flowers down in a dark place to dry.
- Hydrangea can be grown at home as a pot culture. In the fall, she sheds leaves, for the winter she is cut off and transferred to a cool place (+ 4-6), and at the end of February - beginning of March, she is put on a bright and warm place without direct sunlight. In summer, the flower can be taken out into the open air and left until September.
- Experts advise planting ground cover species in the near-trunk circle: stonecrops, bryophyte saxifrage and others.
ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:
1. REPRODUCTION OF GARDEN HORTENSIA: ALL WAYS!
2. TYPES AND BEST VARIETIES OF HYDRENSE WITH PHOTOS AND TITLES!
We wish you flowers will cheer you up and make you a little happier!