Basement flooding happens quite often. This problem is faced not only by summer residents, but also by city dwellers. Typically, the water in the basement or cellar appears in the spring when the snow melts. Despite the opportunity to drain the basement and make it again suitable for storing food, many people, after a single flooding, simply abandon their storage facilities, preferring to purchase or build a new cellar.
So that the problem of flooding the basement does not bother you, it is necessary to carefully seal the floor and walls of the room, as well as organize an effective drainage of water from the building. If, despite all the efforts, groundwater still penetrates the cellar, then it should be disposed of very quickly so that the basement is not exposed to moisture for a long time.
It is much easier to prevent the problem of water penetration into the storage in advance than to deal with its consequences. You can get rid of groundwater by equipping the cellar with a drainage system. It is necessary to make a drainage system even at the construction stage. Properly arranged drainage will allow you to get rid of water in the area and protect the basement structures.
If the drainage system was not equipped at the construction stage, then you should not worry about this, because there is a way out of this situation, more on it later.
Accumulation of moisture in the soil
In order to quickly cope with the emerging problem of basement flooding, it is necessary to understand what the moisture that affects the structure is. The greatest danger for buildings is soil and groundwater.
High groundwater level at the site.
When digging a deep pit, one can notice that gradually sandy soil and loam begin to be replaced by a denser clay rock. This is the so-called water-resistant layer. After precipitation falls, huge volumes of water accumulate over such layers.
The walls and ceilings of the storage are often in the way of the movement of soil moisture. In this case, a small underground lake is formed near the wall, which begins to negatively affect the structures.
The basement can be easily protected from the effects of water coming from the soil surface. To do this, you need to arrange special mini-channels that will drain water from the building. But groundwater, which is kept at the same level underground throughout the year, is a great danger, and it is extremely difficult to get rid of them.
In particular, the type of foundation on which the building is being erected depends on the depth of the groundwater. If the building is supposed to have a basement (this is our case), then the best solution would be a monolithic reinforced concrete slab. It is financially sound and in many ways truly the best foundation.
There is another way to protect the room from moisture. If you want to make the basement completely airtight, you can use a cast container - a caisson. However, caissons are quite expensive and not always the right size. Therefore, most summer residents and country homeowners do not consider this option for a storage device.
Groundwater drainage system
In order not to think about how to remove water from the basement, you should immediately attend to the correct drainage device.
The scheme of water drainage from the basement.
Basically, good drainage of the site is a deep trench located below the basement base. The width of the trench, as a rule, does not exceed 10-15 cm. The trench is usually covered with coarse gravel, and a perforated pipe or gutter is mounted in it. In addition, waterproofing must be arranged (for example, using geotextiles or thick aggregate). From above, the trench is covered with soil.
Drainage pipes.
Such drainage must be located at a slight slope from the building. Such a water drainage system will ensure the drainage, collection and removal of any moisture from a sufficiently large area. Of course, among other things, it is required to organize the withdrawal of the collected water outside the site.
If your house with a basement is located on a slope, then the drainage trench must be made from the side of the hill so that it bends around the building. And the exits need to be done below the lowest part of the site. When there is no slope, it is necessary to make a drainage well, in which all the water collected from the site will be collected.
One of the best methods to drain melt water from a building is to compile a drain and drain pipe. The second pipe should have a maximum slope away from the site. Experts recommend using pipes with a diameter of at least 12-14 cm in this case. Even with the accumulation of soil and dry leaves in the gutter, the throughput of the pipe will not decrease.
The process of the device of the drainage system.
In addition, it is very important to avoid perpendicular pipe bends (which, for example, occur around the garage), because they are very often clogged with leaves and debris. For gutter lengths over 500 cm, two outlet channels must be provided. In addition, it is strongly discouraged to connect branch pipes to the foundation drainage system. In this case, if the branch pipe clogs, then the entire drainage system will soon become clogged. Then water in the basement, cellar or garage inspection pit will become commonplace.
Comprehensive basement moisture protection
Groundwater and melt water systematically feed the soil around the foundation, so after a while the hydrostatic pressure builds up and moisture begins to seep through cracks in the base of the house. In order for the basement to remain dry throughout the entire period of operation, and so that water does not accumulate in the cellar, it is necessary to make high-quality waterproofing at the stage of building the house. In most cases, bituminous mastics and special mixtures are used for this. Wiping type waterproofing is applied to the surface from the outside.
The modern market offers all kinds of mastics based on low molecular weight polyethylene or petroleum bitumen. Before applying, these mixtures must be warmed up (otherwise, proper insulation will not work). The performance of such insulators is much higher than that of conventional bituminous mastics.
There are three main components of high-quality moisture protection:
- An insulating layer under the slab (cellar, garage, house) and good waterproofing of the walls.
- The presence of an internal drainage circuit (it is responsible for collecting moisture).
- Efficient and stable suction pump.
Basement waterproofing with bituminous mastic.
A monolithic slab in a cellar or basement is laid on a gravel layer of 20-30 cm. This backfill must be done in order to provide a good gravel-sand cushion for concrete. This pad will be responsible for draining the soil under the slab. Vapor barrier materials are laid on the crushed stone layer (as a rule, many people use polyethylene). Rolls of vapor barrier must be overlapped (40-60 cm), all visible joints must be sealed with construction tape.
Such insulation, in the opinion of many builders, is incorrect, because it will not allow the water that will necessarily be released from the poured cement mortar to go into the ground. That is why the concrete will harden for a long time. The problem can be partially solved by laying a small sand layer on the vapor barrier material. You can also consider the option of installing a layer of vapor barrier under the gravel.
The pump is part of the drainage system
The water pump is one of the most important drainage elements. If you use high-quality equipment, you can completely eliminate the possibility of moisture getting into the cellar or basement. It is important that the pump housing is cast iron. In addition, the sump pump must be able to pump out water in the presence of solids.
As a rule, pumps are mounted inside water collectors that collect and filter water. In turn, the sump is arranged in a layer of aggregate below the floor level in the cellar. Moisture penetrates into the container through the drainage system through the sides of the sump.
But relying on when using the pump alone is dangerous. If, for example, the house is de-energized, the basement will quickly be flooded. And it will be too late to do something in this case. To be on the safe side, experts recommend making a drainage system with two pumps. Moreover, the second will run on a battery. An additional pump can be installed in the same water collection tank as the main one.
Highly efficient drainage systems have entire pumping stations, which are equipped with backup batteries, which allows not to disrupt normal operation even in the event of a power outage for a long time. But is there a need to make such a drainage system on your site? Most likely, a simpler option is suitable for solving your problems.
Basement flooding can openly be called one of the most annoying troubles in the life of a private homeowner. We propose to find out the reasons for such phenomena and choose adequate methods of counteracting groundwater. Starting from a temporary solution to the problem, and ending with an integrated approach.
Why and where does water seep from?
Conventionally, a basement is an underground reservoir, which is structurally isolated from the ground and all phenomena occurring in it. Unfortunately, even modern monolithic "containers" of this kind, even with their impeccable technological performance, have a quite foreseeable service life, let alone prefabricated cellars with brick walls! Water at a depth of two to three meters is under pressure and can seep inside even through the slightest gap in the waterproofing.
The situation is aggravated by the dynamism of the soil, which subsides and bends, periodically changing the relief of the clay layer. All kinds of depressions, folds and channels, in which water accumulates and flows, are hidden from view. All these phenomena become apparent when the top water enters the basement area along the altered path and accumulates in it, finding no other way out.
It is impossible to delay solving the problem - every year the resource of the structure decreases, besides, periodic flooding causes wild inconveniences with the use of the basement for its intended purpose.
Lowering the groundwater level by soil drainage at the site
The first and most obvious way to get rid of the water in the basement is to interfere with the natural processes of geomorphology. The layman may be familiar with such activities as drainage.
The reduction of the groundwater level at the site is carried out:
- installation of absorption pipes with perforated walls at the design depth;
- organization of a system of underground pipelines
- reset field device.
In a drainage system, a basic rule of thumb is that in order for a container to remain drained, more water must potentially flow out of it than it flows in. And since the flow of water through dense soil is very slow, then several hollow pipes with a diameter of 100-200 mm will be enough even to drain a large area.
The arrangement of the drainage system is quite complicated from an engineering point of view, but the flooding of the basement is only the visible part of the iceberg. It cannot be ruled out that soggy soil can cause rapid aging of other underground structures.
In terms of practical implementation, the prototype of the system is extremely simple. Along the perimeter of the area to be drained, a network of trenches is dug out with a bar or manually, the depth of which corresponds to the desired ground level. The bottom of the trenches is covered with geotextiles and covered with a layer of any hygroscopic material - from vermiculite to ordinary road rubble - or a combination of both. The layer of porous bedding contains perforated pipes that are resistant to high subsurface pressure and other specific operating conditions.
The pipe system has key points. For example, prefabricated collectors that direct all the water from the site into one channel with sufficient capacity. Or revision wells - wide vertical shafts installed at rectangular intersections of pipes for their maintenance, inspection and cleaning with special equipment.
The drainage field should be arranged taking into account the features of the relief of the first water-resistant layer separating the upper water. The runoff is always directed to the lowest point located no closer than 25 meters to the border of the drained area. The drop field is a system of pipes connected by a "comb" with an interval of 2.5 meters. The total capacity of the field to drain water should be equivalent to the absorbency of the drainage system.
Water isolation and hydraulic lock
In lowlands and near water bodies, soil drainage will do nothing, the volume of incoming water is too large and there is no lowest point for its discharge. The alternative in this case is the most reliable waterproofing of the basement as possible. It is not always easy to arrange it even at the construction stage, nevertheless, there is every chance of making the basement dry.
We are talking about the opening of the soil outside the basement and the subsequent work on waterproofing the walls. It is worth making a reservation here that not every basement or basement requires work from the outside. For example, concrete walls and floors can be injected making them completely impervious to moisture.
Otherwise, it is required to dig a technical trench 40-50 cm below the walls, leaving about 70-100 cm of free space for work. At the same time, the bearing layer of the wall is cleaned of fragments crushed by erosion and is re-plastered to create a solid and even base. Waterproofing is applied to this base: mastics, or roll materials that cut off moisture from the structure of the walls. A protective plate is cast on top of the waterproofing layer, designed to fix the hydro-barrier in the mass of the wall and to reliably protect it from cracks, dents and other influences.
But these are only walls. The floor in the basement for the reconstruction of hydraulic protection is also opened below the depth of the walls and is cast with a monolithic reinforced concrete slab. The task of the hydro-barrier in this case is performed by a 30-40 cm layer of heavy, rigid-plastic clay, moistened and compacted without the formation of cavities. Any durable, preferably seamless material is spread on the hydraulic lock: thick polyethylene, banner fabric or PVC canvas for the pool. The edges are glued with bitumen on the walls with a 100-120 mm turn. The floor for such protection can be cast with a slab, it can also be covered with rubble.
Local removal of water from the basement
The third method requires certain knowledge in geology, in particular, reliable information about the soil section at the location of the basement or as close to it as possible. Such information can often be provided by neighbors under construction or well diggers, it may be worth looking for archived survey results.
The essence of the drainage is to discharge the upper water into the first aquifer. Before environmentalists express their comments, you need to focus on the fact that we are not talking about technical drains or sewerage. Groundwater and melt water follow a similar path to the first aquifer, but they seep through natural faults and gaps in the aquiclude. In addition, water from the first aquifer cannot be used as drinking water due to chemical and salt pollution.
A cube-shaped pit with a side of 0.5 m is being dug on the basement floor. The earthen floor is planned with a slope from all sides to the formed cavity and is well compacted. It is possible to create several pits or one drainage trench, depending on the shape and size of the basement.
A hole is drilled in the pit with a handbrake drill with a 50 mm crown. Its function is to connect the basement with the first aquifer or sand pocket, or to reach thick deposits of sandy loam or light clay. On average, the depth of the well can be from 5 to 20 meters. A 40 mm HDPE pipe is inserted into the well - the bottom edge is sealed to a narrowing, in a section 2 meters from it, the walls are often perforated with 8 mm holes. The opposite edge of the casing is cut at the level of the basement floor and perforated in the same way. The pit is filled with quartzite crushed stone of fraction 10-15 mm, it also covers the entire floor, with a layer of about 10-15 cm.
A screed with drainage and ventilation grates can even be arranged on top of the drainage cushion, but many are satisfied with the bulk floor, possibly with walk-through ladders. It is important that with this method of drainage, the basement is guaranteed to be dry, even if it is located in a flooded lowland.
Groundwater problem and possible flooding of the basement- two difficult issues that should be resolved even at the stage of building a country house. Ignoring these moments can lead to such undesirable consequences as the destruction of the foundation, its subsidence, flooding of the basement and damage to all of its contents, as well as the floors of the first floor. How should protective measures be taken to prevent disaster? If, nevertheless, the problem could not be avoided, what to do? You may find the following information helpful.
What leads to an increase in groundwater?
For example, it can be overflow of closely located rivers or an increase in water level, provoked by heavy rainfall. Can we influence the first factor? We personally, as summer residents, are unlikely. But we can provide for the fastest removal of atmospheric precipitation.
How to divert groundwater?
So that groundwater in the basement of a country house does not create problems, it simply should not be there. For this, it is worth taking protective measures. What can be attributed to them? Well, firstly, it is a timely built drainage and secondly, waterproofing.
Waterproofing is necessary from the moisture contained in the soil in any case, and when the groundwater flows significantly below the level of the basement floor, without affecting the underground part of the structure. It is possible to treat all concrete surfaces with special water-repellent compounds, to seal the wall-to-wall and wall-to-floor joints. This way we can seal ...
There is also injection waterproofing. Its essence is that all cracks are filled with materials of multicomponent composition. Due to its special properties, the substance, injected under pressure with special equipment, quickly fills all existing external and internal voids, solidifies, thereby reliably blocking the access to water.
You can forget about the flooding of basements if, in addition to waterproofing, you take care of the drainage system on the site.
Option 1.
With the help of a drill, we will make several wells with a minimum diameter of 10-15 cm, and an average length of 3-5 meters. Typically, this length is sufficient to allow fluid access to permeable layers through dense clay layers that trap water, causing it to accumulate. We lower a special pipe inside or fill it with rubble to the upper border of the hole, cover it with a lid and fill it with earth. Wells, of course, should be done in the low-lying parts of the site and build supply paths to them along which the flowing water will be directed. As a result, water does not accumulate in the upper layers of the soil, for example, during rain or melting snow, but freely and deeply goes through the waterproof layers of the soil. Moreover, very quickly! It is recommended to make such wells along the entire perimeter of the basement and in its vicinity.
Option 2.
You can also build a drainage system as follows. First of all, it is required to assess the nature of the slope at the summer cottage, which in turn will determine the degree of slope of the pipes. In addition, the larger the pipe diameter, the more the slope is made. Thus, an independent flow of water is provided in the direction opposite to the site. We dig trenches around the perimeter of the house and one or two more in the direction from the house to drain the liquid. They should be about 1.5 meters deep, 0.4 m wide, and the slope at the exit should be below the basement level. We cover the bottom with a waterproofing tecton, then geotextile (the width of the material should be sufficient to wrap the subsequent elements of the entire system with it). The next layers are 5 cm thick crushed stone and pipes directly (at the required slope!). We fill the pipes with crushed stone, the layer of which should be approximately 40 cm, cover everything with geotextiles, pour sand and earth on top. For flat areas, an additional drainage well is dug, where rainwater will be collected. From time to time they are pumped out using a pump.
If the basement is already flooded.
If the organization of waterproofing during construction was not discussed, and the basement was flooded, then it is urgent to drain it, and then think about the drainage system. A properly laid network of drainage pipes will collect and drain not only groundwater, but also melt, rainwater, constantly protecting the foundation and basements from excessive moisture.
Drain the flooded room using a submersible drainage pump or fecal type. There is nothing complicated in their design, as well as in operation, which does not prevent the devices from effectively solving their tasks. The choice of model depends entirely on the composition of the liquid in your area, the amount and size of foreign particles in it. The sump pump will do a great job with clean or heavily contaminated water. However, faecal matter will pump all liquid if it is not just dirty, but contains debris, such as 50 mm particles.
The next point should be the organization of a drainage network on the site by one of the two above methods.
Based on materials from the site: www.kak-sdelat.su
High humidity in the cellar appears for various reasons. First of all, it is necessary to find out why it has increased, take measures to eliminate it, and then bring it back to normal. At the last stage, disinfect if necessary. In any case, without proper ventilation and waterproofing, the problem will appear again and again. Therefore, before you dry the cellar, check whether the ventilation pipes are clogged, whether the waterproofing has suffered.
Preventing dampness
As usual, this "disease" is easier (and cheaper) to prevent than to cure. It is still being solved at the design stage:
Inspecting the floor
Very often in the cellar, the floor is made earthen. It is often the source of excess moisture. Through it, the moisture contained in the soil gets inside. To reduce the humidity in the cellar, you need to level the earthen floor, tamp it and cover it with a thick plastic wrap. You can use roofing material, but it breaks more often. Although it seems to be more durable, it breaks due to less elasticity.
It is not necessary to sprinkle sand or earth on top of the film. Sometimes there is a lot of water in the basement (accidental flooding). Then you simply take out the film, the water partly goes into the ground, partly evaporates through the ventilation. After the dampness is gone, you can cover the floor again. If there is earth or sand on top, you will need to poke around in this slurry, extracting a film.
If the floor in the cellar is earthen, most of the moisture enters through it.
If, after laying the film, the moisture level in the cellar has dropped, then you have found the reason. You can leave everything as it is, only periodically change the "flooring", or you can make a concrete floor with full waterproofing. The choice is yours. To prevent the film from tearing when walked on, knock down the wooden shields and throw them on the floor.
Improving waterproofing
The second reason why humidity rises in the basement is an insufficient degree of vapor barrier or waterproofing of the walls. This usually occurs if the cellar is lined with bricks, especially silicate bricks. The material is very hygroscopic and passes water vapor well. They settle in drops on the ceiling and all objects.
The problem can be solved if you make good external waterproofing: dig up the walls and apply bitumen mastic in two layers. Previously, they were coated with resin, but the mastic is more effective and easier to handle.
But earthwork is not always a joy, and it is not always possible to dig out the walls. In this case, you can make the internal waterproofing of the walls of the cellar. For this, there are cement-based impregnations: Pnetron, Kalmatron, Hydrotex, etc. They penetrate to a depth of up to half a meter into the thickness of the material (concrete, brick, etc.) and block the capillaries through which water seeps. Water permeability decreases significantly. Their only drawback is the price. But they are really effective.
All these measures will prevent excessive moisture in the basement. But what if there is already moisture, how to dry the cellar? Next, let's look at ways to reduce humidity.
Preparatory work
All supplies are taken out of the basement, as well as all wooden structures, they are well cleaned. On the street they inspect wood - shelves / boxes / boxes. If they have not suffered, and there is no fungus or mold, they are simply laid out in the sun to dry. If there are traces of damage, the wood is impregnated with a solution of copper sulfate (concentration 5-10%, no more).
Whitewashing with lime gives good results - it will also "collect" moisture from the air. Therefore, before draining the basement, it makes sense to whitewash everything. Only they do it differently from the outside. Apply a thick layer of lime to the walls. To do this, make a bucket of thick whitewash, add a little diluted copper sulfate. He is an excellent disinfectant, but the concentration should not be higher than 5%, maximum - 10. The resulting thick liquid is poured in half into two containers.
The first half is lowered into the basement, dressed in old clothes, put on glasses, covered their hands. Take a paintbrush for whitewashing (it looks more like a small broom) and it is well coated on the corners. Then use a brush to spread the liquid and spray it on the walls and ceiling. Just dip in thick whitewash and spray on the walls. They are covered with drops, bumps of lime.
After everything is covered with lime, wait a day until it dries. Repeat everything with the second bucket. As a result, the walls and ceiling are porous and uneven. But condensation rarely hangs on them: lime keeps moisture inside well. After the lime has dried, you can start drying the cellar.
Basement drainage with ventilation
Sometimes it happens like this: it was dry in the cellar, but suddenly there was dampness. One of the reasons is poor ventilation. First of all, check the cleanliness of the ventilation ducts. Clean if necessary. If everything is fine, but the dampness does not go away, then the chimney is not working well. This happens when the air in the cellar is colder than outside. Heavy and cold, he himself will not climb the pipe. At first glance, a paradoxical situation arises: it was cold and damp outside - it was dry in the cellar. It got warmer - drops of moisture hung on the ceiling, walls and objects, a musty smell appeared. In this case, in order to dry the cellar, it is necessary to activate the movement of air. There are several solutions.
Sometimes the increased air movement leads to the fact that the humidity in the cellar does not decrease, but increases. This can often be seen in hot weather. The reason is this. The heated air carries with it a significant amount of moisture in the form of vapors. Getting into a cool cellar, the air cools down, and moisture condenses on the coldest surfaces: the ceiling, walls, sometimes on shelves and cans. If you have just such a case, then stop ventilation. You even close the supply pipe and close the lid well, limiting the flow of warm air.
How to dry the cellar in this case? Wait until autumn, and when there is no rain yet, but the temperature is already about + 10 ° C, start ventilation using one of the methods suggested above. Works. If your nights are cold in summer, you can turn on the fan at night, and close the ventilation ducts during the day. In this way, you can gradually reduce the humidity in the cellar in the summer.
We heat the cellar
If it is necessary to remove dampness even during warm weather, and ventilation only worsens the situation, you need to heat the air in the basement so that it goes outside by itself, carrying away moisture (the higher the air temperature, the more vapors it can contain).
To do this, take an old bucket or other metal container of about the same volume. They make many holes in it (you can use an ax) in the bottom and walls. Such a leaky bucket is tied to a cable (fasten securely). Coals for kebabs are poured inside (you can burn it yourself), the bucket should be almost full. The coals are kindled and stable combustion is achieved (to accelerate combustion, you can adapt the vacuum cleaner by turning it on for blowing). A bucket with embers is lowered on a cable into the cellar, fixed so that it hangs above the bottom, and the lid is closed.
Periodically, the cellar lid must be opened, letting in an additional portion of oxygen (every 20-30 minutes). You can put a fan on the supply pipe or periodically turn on the same vacuum cleaner. If the coals are still extinguished, they are kindled again.
Attention! It is better not to climb inside, to do everything from above. Firstly, the temperature there is high (in a room about 2 * 3 meters about 70 ° C), and secondly, smoke and, perhaps, carbon monoxide accumulates inside.
As the coals burned out, the bucket was taken out, the lid was closed. For three days do not look inside: smoke and gases will kill the mold and at the same time with drying you will disinfect your cellar. Usually one such "furnace" is enough to dry out the basement in the house or on the street. Likewise, you can get rid of dampness in the basement under the garage.
Sometimes coke or coal is used instead of charcoal. It gives a higher temperature and takes longer to "process", but it burns harder, requires more oxygen, often forced blowing (adapt the old vacuum cleaner and corrugated hose, but turn it on for blowing). But the temperature rises even higher and dries even more efficiently. But the price of coke is high, even though buying a bucket will not go broke.
Instead of a bucket of burning coal, you can use other heaters:
- a propane burner (lower the burning one on the wire, make sure that it does not light anything and leave it hanging in the middle, as tired of it, close the valve, you can open the lid only every other day);
- a heat gun of decent power (3-5 kW);
- kirogas;
- lower the potbelly stove into the basement and heat it.
All these methods can be used, but you have to go down into the cellar in order to ignite the pyrogas or potbelly stove. And this is an unsafe undertaking and do not use this method alone. You need someone to belay you upstairs. Regarding the heat gun: it is also better to lower it by tying (tying) a rope, and not to lower it yourself.
How to dry a basement in a garage is described in the video.
How to dry a cellar without ventilation
If ventilation was not done during construction, it is advisable to arrange it now. At least some: getting rid of dampness will be easier. Better, of course, two pipes - one for the inflow, the second for the outflow - as described at the beginning of the article. If the cellar is made separately on the street, it is easier to organize: they pierced the ground and the roof of the cellar, inserted pipes, poured everything with concrete mortar.
It is more difficult with a garage, but no one clings to aesthetics here. But if the basement is without ventilation under the house, it is more difficult to do everything: it is better not to break the foundation, and you cannot stretch many pipes through the floor into the room. But even in this case, make at least one pipe. Even through the lid, take it out into the wall or ceiling, put a supply and exhaust fan. It can be turned on now for supply, then for the hood and in this way at least somehow dry the cellar.
With at least such ventilation, you can use any of the methods described above. You can also try to collect more moisture. For this inside lay out hygroscopic materials:
If all these dances with tambourines do not inspire confidence in you (although they work), you can dry the cellar using modern technology. There are such household appliances - household dehumidifiers... They are often placed in swimming pools to get rid of dampness in the room. You will need a medium power model. They cost about 20-30 thousand rubles, they work from a household network of 220 V. In the process, they collect moisture from the air into a special container. You will need to drain the water periodically.
One way to dry out a damp basement is by installing a household dehumidifier.
Disinfection and fight against fungi and mold
The increased humidity in the cellar leads to the fact that mold, fungi of different types and colors appear on the walls, shelves and ceilings, and all this beauty is accompanied by "aromas". In this case, all that can be taken out of the cellar - take out and lay out to dry. After drying, whitewash wooden shelves, boxes, boards, racks with lime with the addition of a solution of copper sulfate. Better twice.
In the cellar, clean off all growths from the walls and ceiling, whitewash with lime with copper sulfate twice (the technology is described at the beginning of the article). Before the main drying, special measures can be taken that will destroy the spores (or neutralize them for a while).
Lime vapor
Place the barrel in the cellar and sprinkle with quicklime. Lime is taken at the rate of 3 kg per 1 cubic meter of volume. In a barrel of lime, there should be a maximum, a little more than half. Pour water over everything. Do not interfere. Crawl out quickly and tightly (hermetically) close the lid and all ventilation ducts. You can open it in two days, ventilate well, then you can go down.
Repeat the treatment after 7-10 days. Lime vapor should burn out mold and fungi, destroy insects and their larvae. They also deal with the smells of dampness and musty very effectively. True, the cellar will smell of lime for several days.
Sulfur (smoke) bombs
Use a sulfur checker. They are sold in shops selling seeds or household stock. Each has instructions. But, in short, you need to act according to the following scheme:
- take out all metal things, if this is not possible, cover them with a layer of grease - grease or something similar.
- You set fire to the wick of a sulfuric checker, it starts to smolder.
- Get out quickly, close the lid and ventilation ducts, leave it for 5-6 hours.
If the basement is in the house, it is advisable to leave it during processing: a couple of breaths with insufficient tightness and the lungs will need to be put in order for a long time.
Disinfection occurs due to the formation of sulfuric acid. It is obtained by the reaction of sulfuric anhydride and water. Therefore, mold is more efficiently killed with a sulfur checker in wet cellars.
After 5-6 hours (or after the time indicated on the package), open the ventilation channels and the lid (in this order). Leave it open for at least 12 hours. Remains of gases are eroded during this time. You can go in.
From the experience of operating such checkers, we can say that they need to be lit twice as much as normal. Then everything will really be rendered harmless.
Mold remover
Sometimes white fluffy growth appears on wood or walls. This is a type of fungus. It can be dealt with by the methods described above, but if only it is present, you can find on the construction market a means for removing solid polyurethane foam (sold in the same place as foam). Insert the tube into the assembly gun and apply to the places with the fungus. It instantly begins to roll up. And then at this place does not appear.
Spreading on the floor
If you have an earthen floor, lay a thick plastic wrap on it (for which - described above), knock down wooden grates and throw them on the floor. Scatter pieces of slaked lime under them. And they will collect moisture and create "bad" conditions for the fungi.
How to dry a basement after flooding
If the flooding was accidental, you need to pump out the water in any available way, and then proceed according to the standard scheme:
- Take out everything you can from their cellars.
- Leave all lid and air vents open for a while.
- When more or less dry, remove debris, fungi, mold from the walls and floor.
- Whitewash with lime.
- Dry in one of the ways.
If the flooding is periodic - in the spring, for example, you will have to make a full-fledged drainage system, and this is a separate conversation.
All the methods described above on how to dry a cellar are mostly based on practical experience. They are used everywhere and very often. In one case, one method works, in the other, another. Your task is to find the most effective one for your situation.
When the long-awaited spring comes, many people start having problems with flooding cellars and basements. Such an unpleasant situation happens due to a rise in the level of groundwater. The earth becomes like a sponge that absorbs water and holds it in itself. If the groundwater level rises above the foundation, then moisture seeps into the room through cracks.
The cause of the basement flooding is the first aquifer. It is formed from nearby rivers, lakes, and reservoirs. Also, melted snow and precipitation in the form of rains affect the groundwater level. There are several ways to help you cope with annual flooding. Choosing one of them for yourself, you will be able to make the basement dry.
Drainage system creation
Drainage is a drainage system consisting of trenches, pipes and a well. With the help of it, it is possible to prevent flooding of basements, as well as to drain the land. The drainage system is made at the basement construction stage. A properly installed system will help you forget about the water in the basement once and for all and protect the foundation from destruction.
How the drainage system works
The drainage system is based on a large diameter pipe (at least 100 mm). It has holes all over its surface. Through them, groundwater seeps into the pipe and flows into the collector. In order for the system to work well, the following conditions must be created:
- Dig a sloped trench around the basement below the floor. This will ensure efficient water collection and drainage.
- It is imperative to use filtering materials (geotextiles and crushed stone), which will protect the pipe from flooding.
- Carry out drainage to the central sewerage system, where a large amount of groundwater will accumulate.
What is necessary:
- drainage pipe wrapped in geotextile;
- fine, washed crushed stone;
- geotextile cloth;
- river sand.
Mounting
- Make a trench below floor level around the foundation and a deep well 10-15 meters from the structure. The trench should have a slope sufficient for water to drain off.
- Lay the geotextile in the dug trench. And then cover with rubble (layer thickness 10 cm). This will create a primary layer that filters the groundwater.
- In the next step, lay a drainage pipe (preferably two-layer in geotextile) on a layer of rubble. Make sure that the slope is maintained throughout the trench. Using a tee, lay the outlet pipe up to the well.
- Fill the laid pipe completely with rubble. Leave 20 cm to the top of the trench. Fold the free edges of the geotextile over the rubble. This will completely isolate the drainage from the ground. Then fill the trench with sand.
The result is a reliable drainage system. Geotextiles and crushed stone act as a filter, preventing clogging of the perforated pipe. And the sand will ensure the transportation of moisture from the soil surface to the drainage channel.
Output
Drainage channels installed around the basement will help eliminate the main cause of flooding - high groundwater levels. The result of the drainage work will be a dry basement. Unfortunately, this system has its own significant drawback. It is customary (according to technology) to install drainage channels outside the premises, so not all basements will be able to be equipped this way.
However, in exceptional cases, basement owners can build drainage channels inside the premises. The installation process is almost the same, with the exception of some moments that occur during the floor screed stage. After installing the internal drainage system, the basement will lose 30 cm in height.
Creation of an automatic water pumping system
Not all basement owners have the ability to create a slope with a drainage system. Therefore, a different method is used in such areas. To drain the room, an automatic system for pumping out excess water is installed.
What does that require:
- Create a recess (pit) in the basement. Dig a hole 50x50x50 cm in size. Then reinforce it with concrete or brickwork - this must be done to prevent the walls from collapsing. Pour 10 cm of gravel into the pit.
- Purchase a special pump that automatically turns on when a certain level of water accumulates.
Mounting
In the excavated pit, place the pump, connect the hoses to it and take them away from the room. When the volume of groundwater increases, it will first accumulate in the pit. The pump will start, reacting to the rising level, and will pump out excess moisture. This will continue until the groundwater finally subside.
Output
A fairly simple system that is inexpensive. Quick to install and easy to configure. But this system has two significant drawbacks. First, the pump works properly until it reaches its end of life, and then it will have to be replaced. Second, the drainage system will not eliminate the cause of flooding, but only temporarily relieve the consequences.
Making waterproofing in the basement
Waterproofing walls and floors helps provide a quality waterproof barrier. It consists of three layers: penetrating waterproofing, bituminous mastic and plaster. Apply layers above the flood level with a headroom in case groundwater rises.
What does that require:
- Buy materials: hydrotex or penetron, bitumen mastic, sand, waterproof cement, metal mesh for plaster are used as penetrating waterproofing.
- Collect the necessary tools: a stiff brush and a spatula for applying compounds, an iron brush for grouting between brick joints or cracks, a mixer and a container for mixing the solution.
- Prepare the basement: pump out the water - for this it is convenient to use the "Kid" pump with a bottom suction. After drying, clean the surface of the floor and walls from dirt. Rub seams, corners, cracks with a brush.
Mounting
- Treat concrete floors and walls with penetrating waterproofing. This composition is deeply absorbed and clogs macro cracks through which water penetrates into the basement.
- Then coat corners, seams, cracks with bitumen mastic. Then, in the same way, apply the mastic to the remaining surface of the walls and floor. The layer thickness must be at least 2 cm.
- Attach the metal grate to the wall. It is necessary to ensure the rigidity of the plaster layer. Prepare a medium viscosity grout. Apply a 3 cm layer of plaster using a trowel.
- Place wire mesh on the floor and cover with grout and allow time to dry. This completes the process of creating basement waterproofing.
Output
The waterproofing layer prevents groundwater from seeping through cracks. It also makes concrete stronger, extending the life of the walls and floor. The waterproofing method is an excellent alternative to a drainage system, which not all basements will be able to build.
So, the above methods to combat basement flooding will help get rid of excess water. Each has its own installation features, advantages and disadvantages. You need to choose a method based on specific goals and financial capabilities.
Video: how to make do-it-yourself drainage in the basement