Flooding of a site with groundwater and meltwater can be a real disaster for its owner. Precipitation can also contribute to the violation of the soil structure. It is especially bad for the owners of land consisting mainly of clay or loam, since clay greatly retains water, hardly passing it through itself. In these cases, the only salvation may be a properly constructed drainage. For such soil, it has its own characteristics. Therefore, we will consider how to make drainage of the site with your own hands on clay soils.
Plants suffer from an excess of moisture in the first place. Their roots do not receive the amount of oxygen necessary for development. The result is deplorable - the plants wither at first, and then completely disappear. Moreover, this applies to cultivated plants and lawn grasses. Even in cases where clay is covered from above with a layer of fertile soil, water will be difficult to drain.
The comfort of work on the site is also important, because in the absence of a drain, even a little rain can turn clay soil into a swamp. It will be impossible to work on such land for several days.
When the water does not leave for a long time, there is a risk of flooding the foundation and freezing it when cold weather sets in. Even very good waterproofing is sometimes not able to protect the foundation from destruction, since it itself can be destroyed by frozen moisture.
We conclude: drainage of the site from groundwater is simply necessary. And if it has not been done yet, then you should not postpone its construction.
Preparation for the construction of the drainage system
Before choosing the type of drainage system, you should analyze your site.
Attention is drawn to the following points:
- Soil structure. In our case, clay is considered, which is not able to quickly pass water;
- Source of high moisture. This may be frequent precipitation or groundwater lying close to the surface;
- The type of drainage is selected or several types are combined;
- A plan is drawn up for the location of drainage trenches, revision and catchment wells. The plan indicates the depth of the drains, the dimensions of all elements of the system, their slope relative to the soil surface. The plan will allow you to quickly find the location of all elements of the system.
After such preparation, they begin to build the drainage of the site with their own hands on clay soils. Consider what kind of drainage happens, and which one is better suited for a clay area.
Types of drainage systems
Drainage in a clayey area can be surface, deep or reservoir. Sometimes it is advisable to combine several of these types to achieve the greatest drainage efficiency.
Surface drainage
If the site has even a slight natural slope, this creates additional advantages for surface drainage. Water flows by itself through the channels laid on the site to the designated place. Such channels are located on the surface of the soil, slightly deepening them into the ground. Surface drainage of a site on clay soils can be laid on almost any level ground: along paths, around a building, along the perimeter of lawns, near recreation areas and in other places.
Reservoir drainage
This type of drainage is created even before the construction of the foundation begins. The soil deepens below its location by at least 20 cm. The soil layer is also removed wider than the place where the foundation passes. Crushed stone is poured at the bottom of the pit with a layer of 20 cm, and drainage pipes are located around the perimeter. All moisture penetrating under the foundation is collected in pipes, from where it is discharged through separately laid pipelines to the drainage wells.
Tip: The depth of the reservoir drainage should exceed the depth of the clay soil. In this case, drainage will be most effective.
This type of drainage is quite laborious, therefore it is used less often, although it is useful for clay soils.
Maintenance of the drainage system consists only in cleaning it and pumping water from the collector well. If everything is done correctly, then no clay on the site can overshadow your mood and destroy the plants you grow.
Ground and melt water can cause serious trouble. This is especially true for loamy and clayey soil areas, since this type of soil prevents the passage of water, which leads to decay of plant roots. In this case, you can do the drainage of the site on clay soils with your own hands.
Since clay and loam do not pass water well, it accumulates in the soil, because of this, the roots of plants begin to rot. At the same time, covering with a fertile layer of soil does not correct the situation.
If a drain or drainage system is not equipped on peat soil or clay, then a little rain is enough for the plot of a country house or cottage to turn into a swamp. It is impossible to work on such land for a long time, in addition to this, there is a high probability that the foundation will flood or freeze when the cold sets in.
Do not place high hopes on waterproofing, as frozen water can destroy its integrity.
As mentioned above, in this case there is only one way out - the creation of a drainage system.
Preparatory stage
Before proceeding with the choice of the type of drainage system, it is necessary to subject the site to a thorough analysis, namely:
- determine the structure of the soil;
- find out what is causing the high humidity.
According to the results of the analysis, the type of drainage system is selected. Next, you need to draw up a plan that indicates where and at what depth the various elements of the drainage type system will be located. After that, construction can begin.
Types of drainage systems
For soil in which clay predominates, reservoir, surface or deep drainage options can be used. In some cases, it makes sense to use several types together in order to increase the efficiency of drainage. Let's consider each type in detail.
Surface type drainage systems
This type is ideal in cases where the site is located on a natural slope. For drainage, channels slightly deepened in the ground are created, through which water flows independently into the drainage well. They can be laid on any flat surface, for example, along the perimeter of a building, near a sidewalk or around a lawn.
Gutters are laid in the channel, from above they can be covered with a protective grate.
Deep drainage systems
If it is necessary to divert a large amount of water on clay soil, it is recommended to give preference to deep drainage systems. They are systems of underground pipelines that serve to divert water to places of accumulation.
Deep systems may include from one to several main drainage channels directed to a common catchment area. Their depth of occurrence varies from 1 to 1.5 m, while the width does not exceed 50 cm. Drainage pipes are installed in the channels. Auxiliary lines are connected to the main line, collecting water from the soil surface.
How the trench of deep drainage systems is arranged is shown in the figure.
The figure indicates:
- A - a layer of fertile soil (thickness 20 cm);
- B - backfill soil (20cm);
- C - this layer is covered with crushed stone (30cm);
- D - pipe with a diameter of 110mm;
- E - geotextile coating;
- F - "pillow" of sand;
- G - soil.
Formation drainage systems
This type of drainage, as well as the previous type, belongs to the deep ones. It is used when it becomes necessary to drain groundwater from the structure (foundation). It is installed directly under the building. The drainage system is a layer of rubble, from which water is diverted into pipes laid around the building.
It should be noted that the size of this system must exceed the area of the building under which it is located.
List of tools and materials
To independently create a drainage system on clay-type soil, you will need to prepare the following tools:
- shovels (they are used for laying ditches);
- level (to check the slope);
- stretcher or wheelbarrow (with their help, soil is carried out);
- hacksaw for cutting pipes;
- marking cord.
From materials for surface systems you will need:
- geotextile, it serves as a filter for water that will enter the drainage system;
- to create a sprinkle and a pillow, you need sand and gravel;
- gutters made of concrete or plastic, as well as sand traps and storm water inlets;
- cement.
If you plan to make a deep system, you will additionally need special (perforated) plastic pipes with a diameter of 100 to 110 mm, as well as elements for connecting them.
Video: How to make soil drainage in a country house in the garden
If you do not want to make a storage well with your own hands, into which water will flow from the drainage in an area where there is clay soil, the tank can be purchased ready-made (the price for it is quite affordable).
Self-creation of a surface system
The sequence of actions is as follows:
- trenches are dug, according to the plan of the drainage system. In this case, a slope should be observed towards the place of disposal of drainage water. This action is greatly simplified if the site has a natural slope. It is enough to dig a trench 80 cm deep and 40 cm wide;
- at the bottom of the trenches, a “cushion” is made of sand, which is covered with a layer of gravel, if desired, turf can be placed on top, after which the system can be operated.
If it is planned to install a gutter in the trenches, then they can be made less deep. In this case, the crushed stone is poured with cement mortar, on which gutters and other elements (storm water inlets, sand traps, etc.) are installed. From above, the gutter is closed with a special protective grate, which can play the role of decor.
Photo: installing a gutter in a trench Self-creation of a deep system
The arrangement of this type of drainage system will take more time. Its creation begins with the installation of a collector well, after which they begin to lay the main and auxiliary highways.
The depth of the trenches should be 1.2 m for the main drainage system and about a meter for auxiliary (additional) channels. The width is sufficient 50cm, both for the first and second.
It is important that the main channels reach the drainage well. Auxiliary trenches should have a slope of about five centimeters per meter. The bottom of the trench is covered with sand to create a pillow. On top of it, as well as along the edges of the trench, geotextiles are laid, after which the channel is covered with a 20-centimeter layer of crushed stone.
At the next stage, perforated plastic pipes are laid. Do not forget to check the level of the slope.
Where the pipes are turned, as well as at intervals of 25 meters, revision wells are installed.
At the last stage, the pipes are covered with gravel, wrapped in geotextiles, after which the ditch is leveled to the same level as the soil.
Photo: the central highway of the deep drainage system As you can see, it is quite possible to do the drainage of a site on clay soils with your own hands, even if it takes some time, but in any case, the cost will be lower than attracting builders for this purpose.
The accumulation of melt or precipitation water on the site leads to many unpleasant consequences. To solve this problem, drainage structures are used, the functionality of which is especially important for clay soil, which does not conduct moisture well. Read below for a step-by-step guide to installing a drainage system with your own hands.
Drainage for clay soil
Before organizing drainage in a site with clay soil, it is important to know the features of such soil. A small test is done first. To do this, you need to dig a hole about 60 cm deep, pour 6-7 buckets of water into it. If after a day the moisture is absorbed into the soil without residue, then the site does not need a complex drainage system. In this case, stormwater or bulk drainage is sufficient. Clay soil will not completely absorb water and therefore the site requires more careful arrangement.
As a result of the fact that clay does not conduct moisture well, accumulations of water, puddles form in the upper layers of the soil. Excessive humidity leads to the destruction of the foundations of buildings, the death of plants and the creation of an overly humid atmosphere in the territory. Therefore, drainage is necessary and allows you to drain the clay soil, preventing unpleasant consequences.
For the organization of drainage, factors such as:
- the amount of incoming moisture in the form of precipitation, melt water, automatic irrigation, etc.;
- the area of the territory in need of drainage;
- financial possibilities that determine the type and quality of materials used for drainage.
The combination of underground and surface drainage allows you to drain the soil, providing normal conditions for plants and preserving buildings. At the same time, the buried option involves digging deep ditches, using pipes, crushed stone, geotextiles, and building a well for diverted water. All this requires financial costs and requires careful calculation of parameters.
Surface drainage is shallow channels that are directed towards the well to collect water. From above, the recesses are covered with gratings and are easy to use. The system of such ditches does not require the use of pipes, since special material is laid on the bottom of the trenches. Thanks to this, moisture is transported to the well, and does not remain on clay soil.
The combination of surface and buried systems is optimal for clay soil. Each option requires the development of a diagram that indicates the location of ditches, a well and other elements. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the sequence of installation steps, because the drainage must perform its function quickly and efficiently.
Drainage device
To drain clay soil, surface and deep drainage is used. The first option can be a tray type or with a sand cushion. In any case, trenches are dug towards the well to collect water. The width of the ditches can be about 30 cm, and the depth is up to 50 cm. At the same time, a slight uniform slope towards the well is observed. For areas with a natural slope, this is not necessary.
For a tray surface system, special boxes or plastic trays are installed in the trenches, through which water will be transported to the well. In the case of a sand cushion, a small layer of sand should be poured onto the bottom of the ditches, the size of which is slightly larger than with the tray method, then crushed stone almost to the edges of the recess. On top, you can pour multi-colored gravel or lay a layer of turf.
Deep drainage involves the creation of ditches into which layers of rubble, pipes for drainage, and geotextiles are laid. In the allotted place, a well is installed in the recess to collect water, pipes are laid on a layer of sand and geotextile in trenches, and then crushed stone is poured and the edges of the canvas are wrapped. The well should be located at the extreme point of the site, and all ditches should be directed towards it.
Drainage scheme
Before starting work on creating drainage, the location of all elements of the system should be noted on the site plan. The well should be placed in the far corner, the ditches run along the perimeter of the house or other buildings, connect into one trench and lead to the well. When planning a deep system, it is worth considering that pipes cannot be laid in clay soil where heavy equipment and cars drive. As a result, the soil will sag and damage the drainage. Therefore, the best option is surface drainage, which contributes to the rapid removal of moisture.
The diagram indicates the direction of each trench, as well as the slope of the ditches. If the site is located on a slope, then it is enough to simply dig ditches of the same depth to the well itself. On a flat surface, the calculation of the slope is carried out taking into account the norms.
The slope of the pipes is indicated by fractions, which are difficult for an ignorant person to understand. For example, 0.007 or 0.02. In fact, these numbers mean the ratio of the desired slope of the pipe to its length, expressed in meters. If you need to set a slope of 0.007, this means that for 1 linear meter of pipe, the height difference should be 7 mm. And if the slope is 0.02, then at one meter the height difference will be 2 cm. This difference in slopes is due to the fact that pipes of different diameters require a different minimum slope. And the larger the diameter, the smaller the slope. For example, for diversion drains, pipes with a diameter of 9-11 cm are always used. The minimum slope for them is 0.02. This means that the slope of each meter of drain must be at least 2 cm.
After calculating all the parameters, materials are selected and the dehumidifier is installed. For surface drainage, plastic trays are used, which are installed taking into account the required slope and direction.
Do-it-yourself site drainage on clay soils - step-by-step instructions for installing various systems
Surface-type drainage can be organized with your own hands, using a diagram and selecting materials. A simple system consisting of trays, a well and other elements will ensure timely removal of moisture. Surface drainage is supplemented with deep or backfill, which enhances the efficiency of drainage.
Deep drainage: step by step instructions
Pipes are needed to create deep drainage. For the main line, elements with a diameter of 110 mm are used, and pipes with a diameter of 60 mm are optimal for additional ditches. The well is constructed from concrete rings or a special polymer container is inserted into the recess. Crushed stone fraction 20-40, coarse sand, geotextiles are also needed to create a drainage complex.
The complex of works includes the following actions:
- For a well, a hole should be dug, the depth of which is 2–3 m. Concrete rings are installed from the very bottom. The finished container is mounted in the same way. Sand is poured at the bottom with a layer of 20 cm, and then crushed stone by 30 cm. There should be holes for incoming pipes in the rings or walls of the finished container. The height of their location is equal to the depth of the pipes in the ditches, that is, about 100 cm from the upper edge.
- Next, you need to dig trenches according to the scheme. Their width is 50 cm, and the depth is 120 cm in the main line and 100 cm in the side lines. The main channels reach the well, while the slope is 5 cm per 1 linear meter of pipe length. At the bottom of the ditches, sand should be poured with a layer of about 20 cm, and then geotextiles should be laid. The edges of the canvas should be higher than the edges of the pit. Next, crushed stone is poured in a layer of 20 cm, perforated pipes are laid in compliance with the slope.
- Docking of pipes among themselves is made by coupling or bell-shaped connections. In the area of turns and on straight sections, inspection wells must be installed every 25 cm. The height of such elements should ensure their elevation above the soil level. Revision wells are necessary to monitor the condition and clean the system.
- Crushed stone should be poured onto the pipes so that the filter material completely covers them. Next, wrap the geotextile. The space remaining in the trench is covered with sand, and a layer of turf or decorative gravel is laid on top.
Installation of surface drainage
Deep drainage is designed to remove moisture from the soil, and the surface system helps prevent water stagnation in the upper layer of clay soil. Rain moisture or melt water is immediately discharged into the well, transported through special chutes. This allows you to remove water from the roof of buildings and avoid the appearance of puddles in the area with clay soil.
For a surface system, the direction of the ditches should be marked on the site plan, which should lead to the well. The slope is the same as for deep drainage. Next, the following actions are carried out:
- According to the scheme, small trenches are dug, which are well rammed. It is necessary to observe the slope of the ditches towards the well or water collectors. If the site has a natural slope, then the depth of the channels may be the same. The depth of the trenches in this case is up to 80 cm, and their width is 40 cm.
- At the bottom of the trenches, sand is poured with a layer of 10 cm, and then the same amount of crushed stone of a fraction of 20–40. Next, you need to pour concrete mortar onto the filter material and immediately install trays to remove water.
- At the end of each channel line, grit traps should be installed using the same installation method as for the gutters. Rain inlets under the drainpipes of buildings are mounted according to the same method. All parts are well connected to each other, forming a single system. Next, the trays need to be covered from above with special gratings.
Drainage operation
Proper organization of a drainage system of any type is the key to comfort on a site with clay soils. Rapid removal of moisture after rain avoids the formation of puddles, high humidity and the destruction of the foundation of buildings. And also drainage is practical in the area where there are plants that do not tolerate stagnant water. In this case, drainage ditches should be provided around these plants.
During the operation of the deep and surface versions of the systems, it is necessary to regularly clean debris, leaves, grass and sand. This keeps the drainage efficiency. You also need to take into account the following features of operation:
- revision wells, sand traps should be regularly cleaned of contaminants;
- damage to buried pipes requires their timely replacement;
- before completing the installation of the structure, you need to check it by pouring several buckets of water into pipes or trays. Moisture should quickly enter the main well;
- in clay soil it is impossible to lay pipes in areas subjected to heavy loads.
To create drainage with your own hands, you should use only high-quality pipes and trays, durable geotextiles, crushed stone of the middle fraction and coarse sand. Couplings and other connections are important to be carefully fixed, which will avoid leakage of moisture in the wrong place.
Video: how to make a drainage storm drain
For a site on clay soil, a drainage system is necessary, as it allows you to eliminate excess moisture. In this case, clayey soil can settle, which requires careful development of the pipe layout.
Clay soil on the site is not a gift, especially in spring, when it is flooded with melt water. But even this area can be brought back to normal. In this article, we'll show you how to do it.
- Features of drainage in the area for clay soil;
- How to plan a drainage system;
- How to make a recessed drainage system;
- How to make a surface drainage system.
Why drain on clay soil
Clay soil is reason enough to equip the drainage system the first thing after buying a site. The drainage system project is made on the basis of geological and geodetic studies. FORUMHOUSE participants often carry out such work on their own. The composition of the soil can be studied visually by digging a pit with a depth of at least one and a half meters (this is the average depth of soil freezing).
At FORUMHOUSE you can also learn how to . The closer they come to the surface, the worse it is for the site and its owner: if the GWL is 0.5 meters below the base of the foundation, water must be drained by placing drainage pipes 25-30 cm below the GWL. With a high GWL without drainage, the site remains wet almost all year round.
Tamara Nikolaev Architect, member of FORUMHOUSE
First you need to determine the level of groundwater, if it is less than 2.5 m, drainage is necessary.
But in the case of clay soils, another misfortune is added to the groundwater: surface water that accumulates in the low places of the site. Such puddles are the first sign that there is a large layer of clay in the soil in your area, which does not pass water well.
Surface water is not perched. On FORUMHOUSE there is a detailed analysis of all live-owner plots.
So, a user of our portal with the nickname Brainy faced this problem: after rains and showers in the lower part of his section, puddles stand for weeks, and it seems that they do not soak into the soil, hard as cement, but evaporate.
A simple home test will help to assess the scale of the problem: they dig a hole a little more than half a meter deep in the area and pour 5-7 buckets of water into it. If the water does not go into the ground in a day, on the site, in addition to drainage, you will need a storm system that will take away the top water.
Water, which is poorly absorbed into clay soil, harms plantings, lawns, and building foundations; in addition, constant dampness attracts mosquitoes. The problem can be exacerbated by the location of the site: if it is in a lowland, all the surrounding waters will flow into your territory.
Therefore, a house on a site with clay soil is protected not only by drainage and storm water, but also by layered clay soil.
Drainage plan
When planning the drainage system, it is necessary to take into account the nearby ditches, pits, etc. - after all, we are not going to build a house in an open field, most likely, there will be a place to drain water. It is also necessary to decide whether we will drain the entire site or divert water from the basement and foundation. Drainage of the entire site, especially a large one, is always a costly and troublesome undertaking, it may make sense to divide the task into several subtasks and first ensure a dry place around the house.
Local, wall drainage for draining the foundation is mounted 1.5-2.5 m from the house, laying the pipes of the building 100 mm below the basement waterproofing level.
The drainage system plan indicates where the trenches go, what their slope is, where they connect to the main line that goes to the water intake well, where they are made.
Drainage is designed from the top down and built from the bottom up.
When drawing up a plan, it should be remembered that with deep drainage it is not allowed to lay pipes where a car and other heavy equipment can drive: the soil in this place will inevitably sink and damage the car. In such places, only drainage by storm sewers is allowed.
Storm sewer consists of shallow ditches without pipes leading to a well that collects water. Plastic trays can be inserted into these shallow trenches and covered with special gratings.
With deep drainage make a system of deep trenches 30-50 cm wide, in which drain pipes are mounted with holes of 1.5-55 mm around the entire circumference. Drains with a diameter of 10 cm are considered the most convenient. Some of them are equipped with shells made of filter materials.
An in-depth drainage system is formed from the main main pipeline and perforated pipes that are connected to it.
The main pipe is made either in the center of the site, and the drains are connected to it with a herringbone, or laid along the perimeter of the site 25-30 cm below the groundwater level.
This is an expensive scheme, which is used in the most difficult cases, when the site resembles a solid swamp until mid-summer.
Evan
It is necessary to dig from a water intake - a storm drain, a ravine or a storage drainage chamber and up the slope. Drainage is placed in a dry trench.
How to make a deep drainage clay area
Here is one of the popular and proven drainage systems from Tamara Nikolaev.
- We tamp the bottom of a deep (120 cm) trench.
- We fall asleep a layer of coarse washed river sand - 10 cm. The layer is leveled in accordance with the slope angle, carefully tamping.
- Laying drainage pipes. Between themselves, they are fastened with socket or socket connections.
According to building codes, the minimum slope of drainage pipes should be 2 cm per linear meter; in practice, for a good runoff, they make 5-10 cm per linear meter.
If the site has a sufficient natural slope, the depth of the trenches to the well itself remains the same. Pipes of different diameters require different slope depths: the larger the diameter, the smaller the slope. So, the minimum slope for sod with a diameter of 10 cm is 2 cm per linear meter.
Evan Member of FORUMHOUSE
Pipes in a geotextile filter are not laid in clay soil. A silted pipe can be washed out, but a layer of silt on the surface of the geotextile cannot be removed. Pipes in a geotextile filter are laid in sandy gravelly soils without the content of clay particles.
- For good penetration of moisture into the pipe in the trench, we sprinkle it with permeable materials, such as washed crushed granite or gravel of fraction 20-40.
- Lay a geotextile sheet. GT is needed to separate the layers, and it must be polypropylene, since polyester quickly decomposes in the ground.
- We pour a layer of coarse sand.
The thickness of the layers of gravel and sand is from 10 to 30 cm. The denser and more waterproof the clay, the thicker the backfill layer.
- We fill this cake with fertile soil from the trenches.
Oss
I did this (soil-clay): we pour sand into the trench, then geotextiles, then 5-10 cm of crushed stone washed from sand of fraction 20-40, then a drainage pipe (we remove the GT from it, it is not needed on it), crushed stone again on top somewhere 20-30 cm, then we close the geotextile and the ground is on top. Everything, the drainage is ready.
To monitor the operation of the drainage and, if necessary, clean the pipes, manholes are made in the system.
evan
Wells at each turn (allowed through one with a high frequency of installation) - the norm of the Guidelines of the Moscow Committee for Architecture, Instruction 48 of November 20, 2000 and many earlier ones. We hide wells under lawn grates and other ways of decorating.
From the pipes, water must flow into a water intake well, which is made at the lowest point in the relief, and accumulate there to a certain level. For its device, they dig a hole 2-3 meters deep; concrete rings are installed from the bottom.
The water level in the intake well depends on the depth of the drainage pipes and on how the water will be discharged in the future: usually it is either taken for irrigation or dumped into a ditch outside the site.
How to make surface drainage of a clay area
Let's make a reservation: experts consider "surface drainage" an incorrect term, in building codes the term "storm sewer" is used.
The storm sewer system cannot remove water from clay soil, but it does not allow the formation of puddles on its surface - the water will not stagnate, but will immediately cross into the well.
For such a system, ditches are made with a depth of about 80 cm, just like in a buried system - under a slope. The bottom is covered with a layer of sand (10 cm), which is well compacted, and a layer of rubble (about 30 cm). You can go further by pouring layers of concrete and placing plastic trays.
The cause of surface water is the stagnation of melt and rainwater in the uneven terrain and the accumulation of this water in the upper soil layer. That is, an additional measure should be the pouring of soil into all local depressions, so that the most uniform slope is formed throughout the area for water flow.
Properly executed slope is the best prevention of the appearance of surface water.
Member of FORUMHOUSE da4hik I bought a plot, opened the floor to replace it and saw a small pool there: the strip foundation was completely flooded with water. It had rained for almost ten hours the previous day.
The first thing our user did was to dig a hole about 70 cm deep under the floor, which corresponded to the dimensions of the found case from a small refrigerator. At the bottom he poured sand and a little rubble. Additional holes were made in the body for better filling. At the bottom of the case, I fixed a siphon from the sink, on which I put a thick rubber pipe with a diameter of about 60 cm, passed it under the foundation and made a trench towards the slope, where at the end of the site from the old owner there was a brick water intake well.
Now, after the rains, all the water leaves from under the foundation. And this drainage system not only removes water from under the house, but also works to partially drain the site. True, now the summer resident has to water more often, but this is a much lesser evil.
When designing and building a house, it is important to take into account the characteristics of the soil. This applies both to their composition, bearing capacity, and to the presence of ground and surface waters. Wet soil is more prone to heaving, which leads to foundation deformations. In addition to the groundwater directly, which comes to the foundation from the depth of the soil, the structures are also negatively affected by surface moisture that enters the soil from the atmosphere.
Water drainage systems
The problem of high water level at the site must be addressed comprehensively. To begin with, it is important to conduct geological surveys to determine the level of groundwater and their presence in the soil. To do this, a certain number of pits are arranged, in each of which the level of accumulated moisture is measured. These data will be required in the future for design and drainage.
In general, two types of drainage are arranged on the site:
- surface, which is a storm sewer;
- deep - to reduce the level of groundwater.
Surface drainage is a system of elements through which atmospheric water is collected in special trays and ditches and discharged into nearby water bodies, a storm sewer network or into the soil. Water is collected from the roofs through the gutters and from the very surface of the soil.
Deep drainage is also called the drainage system of the site. They are located below the ground surface and are a system of pipelines, the water from which is also discharged outside the territory. Drainage of clay soil is especially important, as this soil is not able to absorb water.
Features of clay soils
With well-structured soil, water that appears in excess is itself discharged from the surface and from the depth of the base. Otherwise, special measures are required. Clay bases are dangerous because surface water is unable to soak into them. In some cases, this leads to swamping of the site. This makes it difficult to use it for agricultural purposes, and also leads to the constant threat of getting wet basements and destroying foundations.
Special drainage requirements must be established in such cases:
- For heavy clay soils. Such land is subject to waterlogging for long periods of time. This is especially dangerous in regions with prolonged rainfall.
- Medium structured soils in regions with high rainfall. These are light clays and loams, which in general are able to absorb some moisture.
How to make drainage in a clay area and what materials are used for this? Let's analyze this issue in more detail.
materials
What materials are needed for work? The main element of drainage is a pipe. For the system, perforated tubes are used, into which moisture seeps from the soil. The tubes are laid at a slope and connected to the main channel. Through which water is discharged into a well or reservoir. In general, the scheme of a deep drainage system, regardless of the scope (protection of the foundation, use on agricultural land to protect plants from excessive moisture) consists of the following elements:
- Water intake. For these purposes, either natural formations (rivers, lakes, canals) are used, or wells are arranged. For small areas, wells are more often used, in which water is from collectors. From the wells themselves, water seeps into the soil, if at a depth it is able to accept moisture, or is pumped out by pumps as it fills into natural reservoirs.
- Main canal. It is laid from the highest point of the site to the lowest. All the moisture collected by the system drains through this channel. For small drainage systems, it is not used.
- closed collectors. These are pipelines in which moisture is collected from several drainage pipes.
- Viewing wells.
- Drainage pipelines.
As pipes, plastic products, ceramic perforated or asbestos-cement pipes with cuts are used. Now the bowl is used perforated pipes made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or polyethylene (PE). PE pipes are more flexible, which expands their scope. Specialized drainage pipelines have factory-made perforations. For them, filtration systems made of coconut fiber or geotextiles are used.
The main advantages of plastic drainage pipelines:
- ease;
- ease of installation;
- the corrugated wall of the pipe helps protect the perforation from dirt sticking;
- application flexibility.
How to make foundation drainage on clay soil? Consider the phased implementation of such a system in a problem area.
Drainage device on clay soil
Before starting work, it is necessary to carry out some calculations and select the scheme and materials used. For small areas, this can be done on your own:
- First of all, the relief and slopes are determined. To do this, it is necessary to study the topographic plan or take measurements using a level. It is important to determine the highest and lowest points on the surface of the site.
- A main canal is being laid on the site plan. It is arranged from the highest point to the lowest. If the section is without a slope, then the channel is traced arbitrarily. In this case, it is important to arrange the slope artificially.
- Drainage pipelines are laid in such a way that the distance between them is no more than 10 meters, and they flow down a slope into the main canal.
- Determine where to collect water. To do this, use natural and artificial ditches outside the site or arrange other elements. For example, reservoirs. It could be an ornamental pond. Also often used prefabricated wells. In this case, the water from them is pumped by drainage pumps. There is also the option that at the bottom of the well there will be sandy soil, which is able to absorb accumulated moisture.
After preparation and planning, they proceed to do-it-yourself drainage of the site on clay soils:
- Perform earthworks. To do this, dig trenches for main and drainage pipelines. The depth of the trench is selected depending on the lower level of the foundation. On average, they are located at a depth of 1-1.5 m. If a house with a basement is planned, then the drainage pipes must be buried below the level of the basement floor. The width of the trench is 0.3-0.4 m. Do not forget about the slope. In addition to the main channel, it is also necessary for the main drainage pipes at the rate of 1 cm of slope per 1 m of the channel or pipeline.
- In places of wells, pits are dug for the dimensions of the products.
- The bottom of the trench is lined with geotextile.
- Crushed stone (10-20 cm) is poured onto the geotextile.
- Next, the pipelines are located directly.
- If necessary, drainage pumps and pipelines from them outside the site are installed in the wells.
- After laying, do not immediately fill the system with soil. It needs to be checked. To do this, wait for precipitation or use water from a hose. The flow of water through all pipelines should be checked. If necessary, change the slope or lay additional pipes between the designed ones.
After checking the trenches fall asleep. The system is ready to use! Do not forget about the regular maintenance and cleaning of drainage wells, storm water inlets and channels. The system is designed to work for many years.