New Zealand giant delphinium - ornamental plant with long stems on which there are bright beautiful inflorescences. A flower bed with its variegated multi-colored sultans of large flowers will decorate any garden area.

The stems can be covered with flowers up to about half their length. The diameter of an individual flower reaches 10 centimeters. Delphinium flowers are available with or without fringes. It depends on the preferred variety. At the bottom, the stem is covered with sweeping leaves of a juicy green color.

There is another name for this plant - spur. This is due to the fact that flowers have a spur on the petal, which is higher than the others. Now almost never comes across a delphinium of the classical type with the number of petals in a flower equal to five.

On a fully blooming delphinium flower, you can see a pale green stripe in the center of the petals. The green bud, when opened, takes on a bright red, blue or white color, leaving a reminder of the ripening time in the form of this strip.

An adult plant in full growth stretches up to 2 meters with the length of inflorescences reaching 70 centimeters. The flowers are bright, most often purple, blue, red or white, but there are varieties with a dark color. Contrasting color core. One bush can please its blooming view within 5-8 years. At proper care the delphinium will bloom both in mid-summer and early autumn.

Important! Despite the fact that there are annual varieties of delphiniums, experienced summer residents prefer perennial ones. The latter require less attention and are significantly superior in their decorative qualities.

The most popular of the perennials are New Zealand delphiniums, which have gigantic sizes of both the stem and the flowers themselves.

Step-by-step instructions for sowing and growing

Table. The main stages of sowing and cultivation of the New Zealand delphinium.

Steps, photo	Short description
	The soil for the delphinium should not be sour.
	Before sowing, delphinium seeds are disinfected in a solution of potassium permanganate. They can also be soaked in order to increase the germination rate.
	The seeds are planted in the ground to a depth of 3 mm.
	Seedlings are transferred to open ground when the probability of frost onset disappears.
	Delphinium does not tolerate both dampness and lack of moisture. The regularity of watering should be especially monitored immediately after planting. The rest of the time, the plant can be fed if the soil has not been fertilized when the plant is transferred to open ground.
	The stems of the plant are cut, leaving 20-centimeter stumps. In order to avoid water getting to the roots, it is recommended to cover the hollow stems with clay or a special putty. This will save them from decay.
	For the winter, the delphinium usually does not need to be covered. In regions with cold climates, you can protect the plant with spruce branches.

Let's take a closer look at these steps in more detail.

Soil preparation

To plant a delphinium, you need to prepare a place well-lit by the sun. Delphinium is not very demanding to care for, however, it does not like shaded areas and too wet soil. In such conditions, it will grow poorly and give rare and pale inflorescences. Similarly, he reacts to bad soil.

Important! It is also advisable to thoroughly prepare the soil so that you do not have to fertilize it often and save the plant from pests.

Soil preparation activities include:

• autumn digging and the introduction of complex bait;
• adding to the soil a composition of identical parts of humus, peat and soil mixture for garden plants;
• digging up the soil in the spring with the introduction of a mixture of potash salt and ammonium sulfate;
• when planting a spur in areas with a large amount of moisture, it is recommended to add sand under the main soil mixture prepared for the plants.

If the soil is prepared in this way before planting the plant, then in next time it will take a long time to feed and fertilize the delphinium.

An ideal place for a spur is a place on the site that is well illuminated by the sun in the morning, and receives scattered sunlight during the day. Delphinium is afraid of cold winds, but loves aeration. Good ventilation is essential to protect the plant from slugs.

Seed preparation and treatment

When buying spur seeds, you should focus on the products of companies that have proven themselves in the market. Varieties bred abroad are especially appreciated, therefore good seeds have a high cost. Thus, the modest price of delphinium seeds should be alarming.

Self-collection of plant seeds should not be carried out during wet weather... Before that, you need to make sure that the seeds are ripe enough. Overripe should also not be allowed, since overripe fruits, as a rule, cannot hold seeds in themselves. The brown color of the fruit is an indicator of the required degree of maturity.

If the harvested fruits have not yet completely darkened, they need to ripen. To do this, they need to be left in a dry room for a while. Then the spur seeds are stored in the refrigerator, where they can be kept until sowing for no more than a year.

Important! The germination rate of seeds of the New Zealand giant delphinium is 67%. If they are additionally soaked before sowing, this figure increases by about 13%.

The seeds are soaked in the following way: they are placed in a damp cotton cloth and kept in the refrigerator for about 6 days, making sure that the cloth does not dry out. At the same time, excess moisture is also contraindicated, since the seeds need air.

When soaking, you can additionally wrap the seed roll in sphagnum moss. The seeds swollen as a result of this procedure can be sown.

Sowing seeds

Sowing seeds (in this example - in peat tablets)

Sowing is carried out in holes 0.3 cm deep. Soil is poured on top and slightly tamped. A film is stretched over a container with seeds planted in the ground and placed in a warm place, which increases germination.

The containers are covered with foil (here they are placed in a PET bag), now they need to be placed on the windowsill

For early germination, seeds require an ambient temperature not exceeding + 15 ° C. After 3 days, the container with the seedlings begins to be moved to the refrigerator at night. The sprouts are shown after 14 days. When this happens, the film must be removed. Seedlings need to be watered periodically.

After the appearance of three full-fledged leaves in the sprouts, it is carried out. For this, the sprouts are transplanted into separate cups, which are filled with loose earth. Shortly before planting in open ground, the seedlings are hardened by exposing them to fresh air for a while. Immediately before transfer, it is allowed to apply mineral fertilizers to the soil for seedlings.

Transplanting seedlings

Spur seedlings are transplanted to a flower bed if frosts have stopped. For individual bushes, they dig holes 40 cm in circumference and 50 cm deep. The distance between them should be at least 60 cm. Fertilizers are applied under each bush, which must be well mixed with the soil, otherwise they can damage the root system.

After planting, the soil is compacted and then moistened. Before the plants begin to grow vigorously, they need to be protected by a shelter that can be built from transparent plastic containers from under the mineral water.

Important! If fertilizers were not applied to the soil when planting seedlings, then the delphinium is additionally fed. To do this, take half a bucket of droppings and dilute it in water, taken in the amount of five buckets.

A flowerbed with a spur needs regular loosening and watering. When the plants reach 25 cm in length, they will need to be thinned out. To do this, weak stems are cut off on each bush so that in the end no more than three strongest shoots remain.

As the stems are stretched up to 50 cm, 3 supports are made for them, reaching 2 m. It is necessary to dig in the supports carefully, protecting the root system from damage. The stems of plants that have grown more than a meter in height are tied up to protect them from the wind.

In the heat, the delphinium needs to be watered abundantly so that it does not dry out. Watering in such conditions may require 3-4 buckets of water. After watering, be sure to loosen the soil when it dries up. The loosening depth should not exceed 5 cm.

Pest control

Most often, the spur suffers from the following pests:

With proper care, the New Zealand delphinium responds with vibrant colorful blooms every summer for several years. The method of care should be chosen taking into account the region of residence. In the north, conditions should not be created for the second flowering in the summer. V southern regions organizing re-flowering for the plant, on the contrary, is recommended.

Delphinium - the noble vertical of the garden

Video - New Zealand delphinium: sowing seeds

Delphinium Homeland: Northern Hemisphere Plant type: herbaceous annual or perennial Family: Buttercup Illumination: sunny place, partial shade

Soil: neutral, sandy loam, loamy Watering: regular Temperature regime: thermophilic Flowering: June-July Height: up to 2 m

Reproduction: seeds, division, cuttings

New Zealand delphinium hybrids

In New Zealand, breeder Terry Daudeswell has been very fruitful in recent decades. He created a luxurious series of delphinium hybrids, which he called New Millennium Highbrides... These flowers have the highest decorative qualities, are winter-hardy and durable.

Terry Daudeswell's delphiniums have very large flowers, collected in dense brushes of clean and beautiful colors, semi-double or true double, with 4-6 rows of petals.

Secrets of Seed Storage

The most important thing is that the delphinium seeds are properly stored. When stored in indoor conditions they lose germination by the end of the first year.

Seeds should be stored at low but positive temperatures. That's why the best place for this - in the refrigerator.

Sowing seeds of New Zealand delphiniums

I choose a container for sowing seeds with a height of 8-10 cm (it is better to be able to water through the pallet), fill it with an earth mixture (leaf, turf, river sand -2: 1: 1), water with a solution

by the way

Seeds of delphiniums with dark flowers germinate longer than those with light flowers.

Fitosporin-M, let the soil air a little and sprinkle the seeds on the surface. For 1 cm2 - about 3-4 seeds.

Sprinkle the seeds with sifted earth with a layer of 3 mm, slap them, gently moisten and cover with a film.

Seedlings

I put the crops in the refrigerator for stratification for 2 weeks. Seed germination of different varieties is individual and ranges from 50% to 80%. After stratification, the crops are placed on the windowsill (18 ~ 20 ° C), I ventilate them daily.

Seedlings appear in about 2 weeks.

Seedling care

So that the seedlings are not affected by the black leg, I water them through the pallet.

After about 6 weeks, I start picking, which I put in separate cups; I make sure that when planting I do not fall asleep the growth point. For the first 5 days, I put the plants away from the sun.

Disembarkation

In late May - early June, I plant my seedlings in a permanent place (usually in groups of 3-5 pieces). A sunny place or ventilated partial shade, without stagnant water, is best for them.

Before planting, I dig the soil well, add humus, sand, leafy earth to it. In hot and dry weather, delphiniums require abundant watering.

Delphinium feeding

With a shoot height of 10-15 cm, I carry out the first feeding (organic or mineral fertilizers). During the budding period and at the beginning of flowering, I feed it with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

When the buds of renewal are laid, it is advisable to feed with fertilizers without nitrogen.

New Zealand plant hybrids are tall (up to 200 cm) and need to be tied to a support.

Protecting delphiniums from disease

Delphiniums are highly susceptible to diseases, so they should be sprayed as a prophylaxis with solutions of biological products in July - August, every 2-3 weeks. When diseases (powdery mildew) appear, the plants should be treated with chemical remedies.

When preparing delphiniums for winter, I must cut off the peduncles, leaving about 25 cm from the ground. I collect the flower stalks in a bunch and tie it with twine or just break it in half to the ground. This is done so that moisture from the autumn rains does not get into the hollow stems and does not reach the root system - this is how the roots are protected from decay and decay.

Most expensive varieties can be mulched with peat or humus with a layer of 3-4 cm.

Vegetative propagation

Important

When sowing seeds in the ground, the number of delphinium shoots decreases sharply.

As a result of natural selection, more plants with a natural color (blue-violet) emerge and develop. To save varietal characteristics delphiniums are best propagated vegetatively - by division or cuttings.

Large dense bushes delphinium should be thinned out, leaving 2-3 of the strongest shoots. The removed shoots can be used for cuttings.

Preparing for winter

The faded stalks of the delphinium must be cut to the ground - in this case, they will bloom again, although the flowering will no longer be so luxurious.

The division of the bushes is carried out in early spring or at the end of August. When planting, the root collar is deepened by 2-3 cm, no more

Seeds of delphiniums can be sown at several times: in March, in the garden, in April and May - in the ground, before winter - on frozen ground.

Varieties of New Zealand delphiniums - description

• Innosens- pure white with a white eye.
• Double Innosens- white double and semi-double flowers.
• Pink Punch- double and semi-double dark pink flowers.
• Purple Passion- purple-violet with a white eye.
• Moonlight Blues- dense clusters of bright blue double flowers.
• Morning Light- dense brushes of two-colored bluish-lilac semi-double flowers.
• R oyal Espression- cornflower blue with a white eye.
• Dusky Maidense- pink with a brown eye.
• Blue Lays- light blue with pink tint, terry.
• Misty Mauves- light and dark lilac with corrugated petals, terry.

New Zealand delphiniums - photo varieties

New Zealand delphiniums: question - answer

I really like New Zealand delphiniums. But buying plants is expensive. Perhaps it is not very difficult to grow them from seeds? What kind of care do they need? Will perennial delphiniums grow in our country?

Lilia Voskoboinikova, Kolomna

New Zealand hybrids are very decorative, winter-hardy and disease resistant. Seeds of delphiniums quickly lose their germination, they can be stored in the refrigerator (at a low positive temperature) not more than a year. The best time for sowing - March. Before sowing, the seeds must be soaked for 20 minutes. in a gauze bag in a solution of potassium permanganate of bright pink color.

Seedlings do not tolerate picking well, so it is advisable to sow seeds in individual containers, and the soil layer in them should be at least 10 cm.Use a mixture of sand, leaf or turf soil with the addition of a small amount of humus and peat. The cups with seeds are covered with a dark film, the temperature until germination is maintained at a level of 10-15 ° C (in this case, seedlings appear in 9-10 days).

The seeds fall asleep thin layer soil 2-4 mm. Soaking the seeds will help increase germination, for this they are kept in wet tissue in the refrigerator for 5-6 days. Another way is to put the container with the sown seeds in the refrigerator for 1-2 weeks.

Seedlings are grown at a temperature of 20-25 ° C, do not immediately expose them to the sun. In cloudy weather, it is advisable to carry out additional lighting.

Watering young plants should be moderate and regular, using a spray bottle.

You can plant seedlings in open ground at the end of April. New Zealand hybrids are considered frost-resistant; in winters with little snow, they are covered with spruce branches. You can sow seeds before winter, but in this case, due to the effects of frost, the color of the flowers is not guaranteed.

For many years I have been trying to acquire good varietal delphiniums of foreign selection. But all attempts to find them in Russia were unsuccessful. One could only dream of pink or fully terry delphiniums.

Perennial delphiniums, which grew from the seeds of the English company "Unwins", often had flowers with one layer of petals (or they had flowers of an irregular color), which reduced both the size of the flower and its decorative effect. Many grown delphiniums had a loose ear. To get a good decorative delphinium, many seedlings had to be grown, from which a large number of plants were then rejected. As a result, there was a lot of work, but the result did not suit me.

And so, finally, my search was crowned with success: I received from New Zealand the seeds of varietal delphiniums from the company of the New Zealand breeder Terry Dowdeswell, specializing in delphiniums. The seeds were accompanied by instructions for English language... Comparing its text with the instructions on the bags of delphinium seeds sold in Russia, I understood why our growers often fail when growing these plants. Here are the main points from this instruction for sowing seeds of delphiniums, which I tested on my own experience.

Growing a delphinium from seeds

I store the seeds of delphiniums before sowing in the refrigerator (at freezing temperatures) for no longer than one year. I do not soak the seeds before planting!

For sowing delphinium seeds, I use small sterile containers with a transparent lid, filling them with live or steamed soil (I leave a distance of 1 cm to the upper edge of the container). I spill the earth with a weak solution of potassium permanganate (foundation or the drug "Maxim") from the "black leg"; while growing delphinium seedlings, I spill the soil with this solution weekly. On the surface of the spilled earth, I evenly spread the seeds (at a distance of at least two centimeters from each other), press the seeds into the ground, sprinkle them with dry earth (with a layer of 7-10 mm). I close the lid, wrap the container with polyethylene and put it in the refrigerator (not in the freezer, with a temperature of +3 - + 5 degrees). After two weeks, I take out the container from the refrigerator and, having removed the polyethylene, put it in a light and moderately warm (+ 20 degrees) place.

Some seeds of delphiniums can germinate even in the refrigerator 10-12 days after sowing - then I remove the polyethylene from the container and, without opening the lid, put it on a light window. When growing seedlings of delphiniums, I illuminate the seedlings with a lamp, since there is not enough light on the window, and the plants stretch out from this.

I put the seedlings of the white delphinium on a bright window when the first germinated seed appears. I highlight sprouting seeds of a white delphinium better than seeds of delphiniums of other colors.

I grow the hatched seeds of delphiniums in a container with a closed lid until the plants fit under the lid. Once a day, I lift the lid of the container for a short time (so that the leaves near the seedlings do not dry out) and air the plants. I water the shoots of the delphinium carefully, with a small stream, using a medical disposable syringe.

I grow seedlings of delphiniums on a window with a temperature not exceeding 20 degrees Celsius.

Once every 2 weeks, I fertilize the plants with a solution of phosphorus-potassium fertilizer (the concentration is half that for adult plants) with the addition of Epin (2 ampoules per 10 liters of water) or zircon (1 ampoule per 10 liters of water).

I dive delphinium seedlings into small pots, when the plants have 2-3 true leaves. When picking, I take the plant only by the cotyledonous leaves and deepen it into the ground to the point of growth of real leaves. After picking, I grow plants at a temperature not higher than + 20 degrees; I make sure that the soil in the pots does not dry out.

In the spring, I plant the seedlings of delphiniums in the ground after the end of the frost. I shade it from the sun, water it in a timely manner, fertilize it and carefully protect young plants from slugs (they can eat all the young leaves, and then the plants will die). I fight slugs with the help of metaldehyde, scattering it around the plants.

New Zealand delphiniums in Russia

The very first shown blooming New Zealand delphiniums made a real sensation at the permanent exhibition of amateur florists in Kazan. Their level was an order of magnitude higher than the level of delphiniums grown from English seeds. And some plants turned out to be completely terry (had 21 petals on each flower). New Zealand delphiniums belong to the group of Elatum-hybrids, reaching a height of 160-200 cm. They are characterized by a dense arrangement of flowers on a peduncle-spike 60-80 cm long.

These plants tolerate winter and spring frosts well. In June 2004, it rained almost daily, so it was impossible to carry out preventive treatment of the delphiniums from powdery mildew - everything was immediately washed off by the rain. And at the same time, only two plants fell ill, which stood in dense plantings near an unventilated blank wall of the house. But, cut off at the root, these delphiniums did not die, but blossomed in the fall.

In the third year, I divided and planted the overgrown New Zealand delphiniums for reproduction beautiful varieties... After digging each delphinium, I washed the rhizome from the ground, split it to the hollow middle, and then cut the divisions with two or three peduncles, around which several large buds had already formed. Each division had enough roots. I cleaned old hollow peduncles from decayed parts.

All parts of the delphinium are poisonous, therefore, when working with it, you should be careful, wash your hands thoroughly after work, do not touch your face and eyes with your hands.

Delphiniums grow in one place for many years, have a large number of roots and greatly impoverish the soil. Therefore, before planting divided bushes for each plant, I prepared pits by mixing garden soil with live earth, sand, rotted compost and Kemira fertilizer. Planted bushes, well spilled earth on great depth and delphiniums from the sun. The new plantings took root well.

Delphinium breeding

except vegetative propagation which did not produce a large number of plants, I tried to grow New Zealand delphiniums from seeds that were collected from mother plants. The second generation of delphiniums retained their color purity and gamut, but seedlings different from their parents appeared.

Seeds of New Zealand delphiniums planted in the ground before winter tended to split more strongly, so I grow these delphiniums from seeds only at home, through seedlings.

The third generation of New Zealand delphiniums (grown from second generation seeds) had a stronger cleavage. Therefore, I no longer began to grow seedlings of the third generation - I collect seeds only from mothers.

When I posted pictures of New Zealand delphinium seedlings on my website, I was asked questions about the names of their varieties. But in order for a delphinium seedling to become a variety and receive a name, it must be registered accordingly. On the Internet, I found in England the organization responsible for the registration of delphiniums, the registration form and the cost of registration fees. Everything seems to be simple. And the registration cost is small. But I just can't find in Russia a special English album by color codes (R.H.S. Color Chart), released and supplemented in different years by the English Royal Society of Gardeners (R.H.S.).

The color of a delphinium (as well as the color of a flower of any plant) must be described according to this album (of any year of release), and next to the description of the color, the year of release of the album used and the code of this color must be put down. In the latest issue (2001) R.H.S. Color Chart expanded to 808 colors, codes from 1A to 202D.

Therefore, I decided for the time being to register these varieties with us in Russia (at the State Commission for the Registration of Varietal Plants), although this requires the provision of more documents and is more expensive than in England. I decided to name the varieties of delphiniums in honor of the heroes of English literature and in honor of people dear to me. The photos below show the flowers of these delphiniums.

Variety "Lady Rovena" - this is the name of my wife, who received her name in honor of the main character of the novel by V. Scott "Ivanhoe". Light pink flower with darker pink edging on each petal; completely terry. Flower size 7-9 cm.

Variety "Aivengo" - named after the protagonist of the novel of the same name. Sky blue flower with a pink tint in the depths of each petal, at the point of attachment to the trunk; completely terry. Flower size 7 cm.

Variety "Prince Arthur-2003 (Prince Arthur-2003)" - named after my grandson and his year of birth. Deep pink flower, fully double-flowered. Flower size 7-9 cm.

Variety "Doctor Nina" - named after a wonderful doctor and my mother. Semi-double flower of light pink-milky color, with light staminodes in the third row of the flower; staminodes with stripes in the middle of a light pink-milky color. Flower size 7 cm.

Sean Connery is named after my favorite actor. Dark violet-blue flower with a wide dark lilac stripe in the center of the petal; all three rows of petals are the same length. Fully terry. Flower size 8 cm.

I hope that very soon the names of these delphinium varieties will appear in State register varietal plants of Russia. As I was told in the State Commission, varietal delphiniums in Russia have not been registered for a long time.

This year I am acquiring newest grade delphinium "Coral Sunset", considered coral pink in color. It is interesting to try to cross this delphinium with New Zealand delphiniums and get a beautiful new variety.

Growing perennial delphiniums

Delphiniums grow on well-cultivated and fertilized soil (slightly acidic or neutral) without stagnant water and closely lying groundwater.

When planting delphiniums, I prepare a separate 40x40x40cm hole for each bush. The distance between plants must be at least 50cm. The planting site should be sunny and sheltered from the wind, as the plants are very fragile and break easily.

So that the delphiniums do not break in the wind and rain, I attach each peduncle of the plant (in 3-4 places along its entire length) with plastic ring-holders to a pin at least 2 meters high, stuck next to the ground. For this, you can use another similar device; better to paint it green.

I plant delphiniums in spring (late April) or in autumn - from late August to mid-September. I add compost, humus, ash, granular mineral fertilizer "Kemira" to the planting pit. After planting, I water the plant abundantly until rooting.

For lush bloom in the spring I fertilize delphiniums with nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium fertilizer with a predominance of phosphorus and potassium.

In the first year, I cover young delphiniums for the winter. You can cover the plants with spruce branches or a small layer of earth, and put a film on top, securing its edges (so that the wind does not blow away).

In one place, delphiniums can grow up to 10 years. But if at the age of 4-6 years the center of the plant rots, and the bush disintegrates, then in the spring I divide and plant it. When dividing on a bush, I leave no more than 2-3 last year's trunks, around which young shoots grow.

In the spring, I form large delphinium bushes, leaving 2-4 peduncles. I break out the rest of the shoots, since when more shoots of a delphinium, its flowers become smaller, their color is less saturated; and in double delphiniums, flowers can grow semi-double.

Broken non-hollow shoots no shorter than 10-15 cm can be used on cuttings for vegetative propagation of delphinium. Before planting, the cuttings are kept for 2-3 hours in a solution of heteroauxin, and then I plant them in a peat-sand mixture and cover with a glass or plastic jar. I make sure that the ground under the bank does not dry out. After 1.5 months, the cuttings of the delphinium take root.

Delphinium pests

Unfortunately, this beautiful and majestic plant has pests - delphinium fly, slugs, nematodes, aphids.

The main pest, the delphinium fly, lays eggs at the base of plant stems in mid-May. This insect hibernates in the form of a pupa, therefore, when transplanting a delphinium, I examine its roots, add "Bazudin" to the landing hole. If insects are found on plants, I spill them in mid-May with karbofos or fufanon.

Delphiniums are susceptible to powdery mildew disease and viral infections(although the new varieties already have immunity against these diseases). There is no need to wait for the plants to get sick - it is better to do prophylaxis with a solution of foundation, the drug "Maxim", an iodine solution (5 g per bucket of water) or the antibiotic "Tetracycline" (1 tablet per 1 liter of water). I process delphiniums three times with a weekly interval, and more often in rainy weather.

When using delphiniums for cutting to prolong the freshness of flowers, I turn the cut peduncle upside down, carefully pour water into its hollow trunk and then plug it with a piece of cotton wool. In this form, I put the peduncle of the delphinium in a high vase.

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Delphinium (larkspur or larkspur) - herbaceous decorative flowering plant, belonging to the Buttercup family. Today there are over 400 varieties of delphinium. These can be annuals and perennials. The homeland of growth is Southeast Asia, China and the tropical zone of Africa. The most famous for their originality and beauty are New Zealand delphiniums, the fashion for the cultivation of which has reached our florists.

A little about the biology of delphiniums

Growing a New Zealand delphinium is a painstaking process that requires patience and effort. The selection of a site for planting must be approached with full responsibility. The place for planting this plant should be well lit, without winds, drafts and stagnant water. New Zealand delphiniums can grow in one place for up to 5-6 years. After this period, the bushes are divided and planted separately.

The most unpleasant delphinium disease is powdery mildew. In the fight against it, chemicals are used. Providing this unusual flower with proper care and attention, you can achieve repeated flowering. The first period of release of flower buds begins in June, the second, shorter period - in late summer and early autumn.

The first hybrids of this garden pet were obtained by crossing perennial plants... The most popular and beautiful are delphiniums of Scottish, New Zealand and Marfin selection.

Where to buy New Zealand delphinium seeds?

Considering that the cost of the seeds of these hybrids is very high, it became expedient to arrange a joint venture, which means Joint Purchase... Today there are several active forums dealing with the organization of a JV from New Zealand. Thus, it is possible to purchase seeds from Terry Daudeswell, who managed to establish the production of these hybrids. This is very convenient today for many flower growers who want to grow beautiful and unusual flowers on their site, while the acquisition costs planting material will be much lower.

The most popular and beautiful are the newly introduced varieties of delphiniums from this distant country. These are tall plants reaching two meters in height. They produce large double and semi-double flowers up to 8-9 cm in diameter. Some species have corrugated flowers.

One of the brightest plants in this group is the New Zealand Giant Delphinium.

All hybrids of this group are characterized by frost resistance, durability, resistance to various diseases... They are planted for further cutting. This business is profitable for those who sell flowers. You can look at the catalog of all varieties of New Zealand delphiniums on the website of Galina Nikitina, where joint ventures for the purchase of seeds are also held. The joint venture will reduce the cost of the desired product.

How to grow a delphinium from seeds?

Growing a perennial delphinium from seeds is not only exciting, but also profitable. After all, seeds for planting this plant are not cheap. In addition, the New Zealand delphinium can be propagated not only with the help of seeds, but also with cuttings, dividing the bush and buds.

Planting with seeds is the most reliable and effective method... It is worth remembering that it is not recommended to store seeds in a warm room; in this case, their germination is lost. Freshly harvested seeds are sown immediately, or sent to the refrigerator for storage.

Seed preparation

Before disembarking, they undergo a disinfection procedure. They are placed in gauze, then dipped in a highly concentrated solution of potassium permanganate. Some growers use a fungicidal solution. Then the seeds should be rinsed directly in gauze under running water. The next step is to soak them in Epin's solution (2 drops of the substance are diluted with 1 liter of water). After that, the seeds are dried, preventing them from sticking together.

Soil preparation

Next, you need to prepare a soil mixture from garden soil, peat and compost one by one, adding half a part of coarse sand. In order to make the earth looser and more moisture-consuming, you need to add perlite. One glass of the substance is added to ten liters of soil. To destroy the seeds of weeds and fungal spores, the soil mixture is heated in a water bath for 40-50 minutes.

Sowing

The planting of the delphinium is carried out in small containers, which are filled with soil, slightly trampling down. The seeds are planted superficially. In order not to get confused, where is which variety, each container with seedlings must be signed with the date of sowing. So that the seeds do not float to the surface at the first moistening, they are sprinkled with a thin layer of soil 3-4 mm. Immediately after sowing, the seeds are sprayed with boiled water at room temperature. Since the germination of seeds in the dark increases, the seedlings are covered first with a transparent container, then with black polyethylene.

Crop care

To speed up the emergence of seedlings, the seed containers are placed closer to sunlight.

Subsequent care for crops is to ensure a stable temperature regime within 10-15 degrees. You can increase germination by placing a container with seedlings in the refrigerator for several days. Plants tolerate temperatures down to -5 degrees quite successfully. After 1-2 weeks, the planted hybrids are again placed in a sunny place. Thanks to this stratification, the first shoots will appear in 2 weeks. It is very important not to miss this moment and immediately remove the film.

Seedling care

Further care of the seedlings consists in regular spraying and airing. As soon as the seedlings get stronger, and several leaves appear on it, they are planted in separate pots with a volume of three hundred milliliters.

The temperature of the content of plants should be within 20 degrees. In this case, the earth should be light, breathable and loose.

Water the hybrids moderately and regularly. An excess of moisture can lead to the appearance of the disease "black leg", from which all plantings can die. Optimize care for your pets to prevent this.

In May, a gradual adaptation of seedlings to fresh air and sunlight.

Fertilization of the delphinium is carried out twice before planting in open ground. The break between feedings is two weeks. Agricola or Solution is used as top dressing.

Planting in a permanent place and caring for plants

Planting seedlings in open ground is carried out after root system plants are completely entwined with an earthen lump. Seedlings are easily removed from the planting container without damaging the roots.

After the plants have reached 15 cm in height, the first feeding is carried out in the open field. One bucket of manure is diluted with 10 buckets of water. You can water five bushes with the ready-made solution. Then the soil is loosened with the removal of weeds. After that, the land around the plants is mulched with a small layer of peat.

Thinning bushes

When the plants reach 25-30 cm, they are thinned out. This procedure is carried out in order to obtain larger and more beautiful inflorescences. No more than 4-5 shoots should remain on one bush. In addition, thinning improves air circulation and increases plant resistance to various diseases.

In the process of thinning, stronger and healthier stems are left, thin and weak ones are cut off near the ground. By the way, you can try to root cuttings with a heel on them. Places of cuts are treated with coal, then a tablet of heteroauxin crushed into powder. The treated shoots are dipped in a mixture of sand and peat, then covered with polyethylene. If done correctly, the shoots should take root in a month. 14 days after rooting, they are planted in open ground. This delphinium cultivation takes place using cuttings.

Garter to supports

As soon as the plants reach half a meter in height, they will need to build a support. Two-meter-high rods are dug in next to the bushes. There should be 3 rods near each plant. Then the hybrids are tied to the erected support with rags. The next garter is carried out when the plants reach a height of 1 m.

Flowering care

New Zealand delphiniums, like other varieties, are very fond of moisture. During the period of active growth, one plant can "drink" over 50 liters of water. In regions with warm climates and hot summers, flowers are watered once a week, pouring 3 liters of water under one bush. After each watering, there is a procedure for loosening the soil around the bush up to five centimeters deep.

The delphinium requires special care during the release of flower buds. V this moment the plant is abundantly watered and fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (20 g of the substance is diluted with a bucket of water). 1 liter of the finished solution is applied to one bush. Such measures will allow you to achieve a beautiful and abundant flowering... Therefore, timely care is important here, which will allow you to achieve maximum decorativeness.

Diseases of New Zealand delphiniums

Delphiniums can be affected by powdery mildew. This happens most often in the middle of summer. Signs of this fungal disease are white bloom, which turns brown over time. Measures must be taken immediately, otherwise the entire terrestrial part of the plants will die in a short time. For this, the hybrids are sprayed with basezol or Topaz.

The appearance of black spot is indicated by black spots spreading from bottom to top along the stem of the flower. It is possible to cure the affected specimens only in an unlaunched form. One tetracycline tablet is diluted in 1 liter of water. The finished solution is used for repeated spraying of damaged plants.

When annular spotting appears, the leaves of the delphinium turn yellow. In this case, the fight against a viral disease is useless. Affected specimens are destroyed. The carrier of this disease is aphids. For preventive purposes, plantings are sprayed with actellik or karbofos.

Pests

Especially dangerous insect, which lays eggs in the flower buds of the plant, the delphinium fly, as well as slugs.

To kill flies, flowers are treated with insecticidal preparations. To get rid of slugs, containers with bleach are placed in plants, which scares them away.

Post-flowering care

After the end of the flowering period, the inflorescences must be cut. Also at this time, seeds are collected. After cutting, new stems will appear on the bushes. Closer to autumn, delphiniums will bloom again if they are properly cared for.

Between flowering, the division of bushes 3-4 years old is carried out. The bush is carefully dug up and divided into parts so as not to affect the growth buds. For this you need to take sharp knife... Places of cuts are treated with wood powder. Delenki are seated separately. This cultivation of delphiniums also belongs to the vegetative method.

After the hybrids have faded and their leaves dry out, the stems are cut, leaving 30 cm above ground level. It is recommended to cover the sections with clay. This will prevent water from entering through the hole to the root system in autumn-winter period, which is fraught with root rot.

Wintering New Zealand delphiniums

Regardless of age, all New Zealand delphiniums are hardy. In winters with little snow, the plants are covered with straw or spruce branches. These flowers are very sensitive to sudden changes in temperature, which can lead to their death. This can be avoided by pouring half a bucket of sand on the bottom of the hole during planting.

Growing delphiniums with seeds is troublesome, but worthwhile. Moreover, there will be no problems with the purchase of seeds, thanks to the existing joint venture system. Create optimal conditions and take proper care of the plants, as a reward you will receive amazing beauty that can be admired in summer and autumn.

If there is a place in your garden for tall flowering perennials, then plant a strict and impressive aristocrat delphinium. Blooming delphiniums are always very spectacular. They have an unusual flower shape and rare shades. Moreover, they do not need any special care. And the best part is perennial species winter normally in our latitudes. Let's turn our attention to the perennial delphinium, growing from the seeds of which can provide you with a flowering plant this summer.

Delphinium, larkspur or larkspur (Delphinium) is a tall (up to 2 m) flowering herb. There are more than 300 annual and perennial species.

Leaves are rounded, palmate-lobed, slightly pubescent. A large spike-shaped inflorescence is located on an erect stem, in which there can be up to 80 flowers. Alpine species are shorter.

In floriculture, various subspecies and varieties of hybrid delphinium (Delphinium x cultorum Voss.) Are most often used. They are divided into groups:

— Marfin hybrids Russian selection are distinguished by high winter hardiness. But when propagated by seeds, there is a strong splitting of species characteristics, so they are now rarely used.

— Belladonna hybrids(D. Belladonna) were bred from labiate and large-flowered varieties at the end of the 19th century. They are relatively low and have the ability to bloom again.

Delphinium hybrids Belladonna

— Elatum hybrids(D. x. Elatum) obtained as a result of crossing with the obligatory participation of the high delphinium. Large flowers this species is most often semi-double.

Delphinium hybrids Elatum

— Pacific hybrids or Pacific (D. x pacific) bred in the USA, differ in tall bushes, large inflorescences and flowers. But in our climatic conditions it is often affected by diseases, therefore it is mainly used as a biennial, but it can grow up to 6 years. Needs support.

— New Zealand hybrids or New Millennium Hybrids are the most popular delphiniums. Bred by New Zealand breeder Terry Daudeswell. They have a very high decorative effect, as they have large dense inflorescences, the purest color of various tones. And besides this, they are winter-hardy, durable and retain their original qualities during reproduction.

Delphinium New Zealand hybrids

main feature delphinium - unusual structure flower. It consists of 5 petals, one of which has a "spur" process. Inside are two small petals and two nectaries, which differ in color from the outer sepals. It is they who attract pollinators (bumblebees, birds), therefore they are called eyes or bees. This applies to simple forms, but there are also semi-double and fully double types.

Breeding options

Perennial species of delphinium grow in one place for up to 6 years, then the bush begins to thin out and requires a transplant. During such a procedure, the simplest reproduction is carried out - by dividing the bush. This is done in early spring or late summer after flowering. It is enough to separate one shoot with a healthy renewal bud and the presence of roots.

Just like other perennials, the delphinium also reproduces by cuttings. They are cut in May or August. Rooted in a shaded place in a wet mixture of sand and peat (pretreated with heteroauxin). At temperatures slightly above 20 degrees, rooting occurs within two to three weeks.

Growing delphinium from seeds is also popular. Previously, propagation by seeds led to the loss of parental traits. Now, thanks to modern breeders, this problem has been practically solved. New Zealand hybrids are especially good at this.

Delphinium seeds and their features

One of the difficulties in growing delphiniums from seeds is their very short shelf life. They quickly lose their germination. And so that the seeds collected in the fall can be sown on seedlings in the spring, they must be stored exclusively in the refrigerator. Seeds stored in heat deteriorate, since at temperatures above 15 degrees they can begin to germinate right in the package.

Therefore, be very careful when buying seeds. Before ordering, read reviews about online stores, ask competent friends. Delphinium seeds are quite expensive and a shame if you waste your money and effort.

You can collect your own seeds from flowering delphiniums. This should be done on a dry sunny day, select fully ripe dark brown seeds. It is best to store them in a glass container in the refrigerator or in another fairly cool place (veranda or balcony). However, when using your own seeds, it is very likely that you will get plants that are different from the parental ones. Therefore, it is better to contact trusted stores or well-known breeders for seeds.

Sowing seeds in open ground

You can grow delphiniums from seeds by sowing them in the second half of spring directly into open ground. To do this, dig up the bed well (about 30 cm), apply complex fertilizers. Make superficial shallow grooves, water them well, distribute the seeds evenly and sprinkle with a thin layer of dry soil on top. For better seed germination, the garden bed can be covered with dark agrofibre or black foil. Provide regular surface watering... Seedlings should appear in about 25 days. And only after that it will be possible to remove the shelter.

Young shoots should be watered and fed regularly. Loosen soil and remove weeds. For the winter, young plants will require shelter. And next year they can already be planted in a permanent place, and they can bloom.

Winter sowing annual species of delphiniums breed.

Sowing seeds for seedlings

You can grow delphiniums from seeds seedling method... Sowing seeds of delphiniums for seedlings is best done in last days February or early March. In 2019 auspicious days in February are: 24-26, 28; in March - 1-2, 5, 7, 10-14 (see details). Since young seedlings are not very satisfying artificial lighting, they want more daylight.

The first step is to prepare the planting soil. It should be neutral or slightly acidic and lightweight and breathable. To do this, you can prepare a soil mixture of sand and leaf (or sod) earth, adding a little humus and peat. A special soil mixture bought in a store will also do.

Before use, the soil must be decontaminated. There are several options. You can put it in a microwave oven for 5 minutes (maximum power) or spill it with boiling water, or you can just pour it with a solution of manganese or Previkura.

Delphiniums do not tolerate picking very well, therefore, if possible, it is better to immediately sow them in large individual cups (with a diameter of 9-13 cm).

Before sowing, seeds should be stored in a package at a negative temperature in a freezer.

You can take any total container for sowing seeds (disposable food plastic containers with lids), the main thing is to make drainage holes at the bottom, since stagnant water is detrimental to seedlings. You can put some broken red brick or expanded clay on the bottom.

We fill the container with moist soil, seal it, leaving about two centimeters to the upper edge of the container. It is important that the depth of the soil layer is at least 10 cm. We spread the seeds with a damp toothpick (they stick to one, and push them into the right place with the other toothpick). It is desirable that there is a distance of 1.5-2 cm between the seeds. We lightly press them to the surface and sprinkle them with the thinnest layer of soil (about 2-3 mm). Water from a spray bottle. We cover with a container lid or foil, and on top with black agrofibre (you can also use a black opaque foil). Delphinium seeds germinate better in the dark. Please note that the temperature should not be higher than 20 degrees (15-18)! Below you can, and more heat will inhibit the sprouts.

When the first shoots appear (after 7-12 days), we remove the dark shelter, and put our container in a very bright place, but not in direct sun. On cloudy days, be sure to turn on additional lighting. It is advisable to add additional lighting in the evening. Drip watering or spraying with a spray bottle.

Do not forget to regularly remove condensation from the lid and gradually ventilate the seedlings. When the sprouts reach the level of the lid (film or glass), then it must be removed.

Further care

If you did not sow the seeds immediately in separate large cups, then after the appearance of the first pair of real leaves, you should pick the seedlings. Delphiniums are very sensitive to root injuries, so do it as carefully as possible.

Use large plastic cups, but it is best to dive the seedlings into peat cups. You can avoid injury to your plants by planting them in the garden with a cup. When picking, carefully take the sprout by the cotyledonous leaves and bury it in the soil to the level of real leaves. Then we continue to grow seedlings at temperatures below 20 degrees, additional lighting and accurate regular watering (we use a spray bottle or syringe without a needle).

A few days after the pick, the seedlings can be fed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer. In the future, we carry out top dressing every week.

For the prevention of the disease of seedlings "black leg" the first watering after planting, as well as after picking, carry out the solution "Previkura".

In early May, the seedlings should be gradually hardened. Take the plants outside or on an open balcony, first for a few minutes, then gradually increasing the time to several hours.

Another interesting sowing method

Does delphinium need stratification?

There is no consensus on the question of whether it is necessary to stratify seeds when sowing a delphinium for seedlings.

Some growers believe that since the seeds were stored in a cold place before sowing, they were already stratified to some extent. They sow seeds directly into the ground and get normal germination.

Others, not less experienced florists, believe that stratification is still necessary. To do this, containers with sown seeds (which were previously stored in the freezer) are placed in the refrigerator for about 10-14 days. Then the container is placed in a warm (+25 degrees) and bright place. And after germination, the seedlings are looked after as usual. With this method, germination is also good.

Therefore, here the choice is solely yours.

We plant in the garden

When the probability of night frosts has passed, around the end of May (depending on your climatic conditions) we plant our seedlings in a designated place in the garden.

For planting delphiniums, choose a place without wind and stagnant water. It should be sunny, but shaded at midday. The soil is suitable for sandy loam or loamy, necessarily enriched with humus. Delphiniums tolerate drought normally; excessive waterlogging is much worse for them.

Planting density depends on the variety and compositional solution. After planting, mulch the root circle. At first, young plants must be shaded so that they do not receive sunburn and normally adapted to new conditions. It is also important to protect the delicate leaves from slugs. Do not forget to think over a support for tying up grown delphiniums.

V further care the most common: watering, feeding, loosening and removing weeds, garter. For the winter, the upper part is cut off. The delphinium hibernates without shelter. However, if your winters are frosty and often without snow, then it is better to cover the plants with straw or spruce branches.

The first year, your seedlings will gain strength and grow roots. At the end of summer, you will see the first, as yet weak, bloom. And next year you will be pleased with full flowering, which, with proper care and in accordance with the characteristics of the variety, can occur twice.

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Diseases and pests

Seedlings of delphiniums from seeds, like any other, can be subjected to fungal disease"blackleg". The causative agents of this disease are in the soil, therefore, for prevention, its disinfection is required. Waterlogging, thickening of the planting and heavy soil contribute to the occurrence of the disease. If you notice a plant with a blackening at the bottom of the stem, which becomes weak, remove it immediately. In case of group sowing, the soil should be replaced as much as possible, and then watered with a solution of the "Previkur" preparation.

Adult plants are affected by fungal diseases (powdery mildew, rust, rot of the root collar, mosaic, and others). Also delphiniums and bacterial (viral) diseases (spotting, curliness and others) are ill.

For fungal infections, spraying with Bordeaux liquid (5%) or other drugs acting on a particular disease is used.

With viruses, most often it is necessary to remove the affected plant. Spraying with a tetracycline solution may help, but only at the very beginning of the disease. And with vectors of infections - aphids should be fought with the help of insecticides.

All these diseases appear as a result of improper plant care and unfavorable weather conditions (prolonged rains or severe drought). You should also regularly remove fallen leaves, thin out bushes, water in a timely manner.

Delphiniums also have pests: aphids, spider mite, dolphin and onion flies, various caterpillars, slugs, which are very harmful to young leaves.

Insects must be fought with special chemicals... Against aphids, you can also use tobacco dust, garlic infusion. And metaldehyde helps to fight slugs. Various folk remedies struggles are troublesome enough.

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Little tips

1. Before sowing seeds, river sand is sifted onto the surface of the soil with a thin layer. On a light sandy background, dark brown seeds will be clearly visible and this will make it possible to properly distribute them.
2. For more successful wintering, in addition to mulching, you can sprinkle the cut bush with sand, and cover the hollow tube of the stem with clay (or even plasticine).
3. White varieties of delphinium require more light than others. Therefore, they are put in a bright place when the very first seed is pecked, without waiting for the rest.
4. If several different varieties are planted closely, the purity of the variety may not be preserved. Also the temperature regime and external environment can affect the color of some varieties.

Now you know how to grow a delphinium from seeds. It is not much more difficult than any other seedling. And all the hassle and effort will immediately seem insignificant as soon as you see in your garden the stunning splendor of large openwork candles of a blooming delphinium. Buy seeds as soon as possible, because you can already start sowing!