Probably many gardeners came up with the idea of \u200b\u200breproduction. It's quite real! Cuttings of conifers can be carried out both in early summer in the ground and in winter at home.
The best way to propagate conifers by cuttings is cypress, thuja, juniper and yew (it is easier to propagate larch with seeds, and spruce generally does not lend itself well to grafting). Green shoots with a lignified lower part act as cuttings.
Take shoots from young, dense and even plants so as not to get crooked and weak as a result. If there is no "youth" on the site, then for an adult coniferous plant, choose cuttings from the upper part of the crown. You should not take shoots from the lateral branches, since then the plant may bend, not have a beautiful pyramidal shape and the density gain will be uneven. If, by chance, a branch of a coniferous plant breaks off, do not rush to throw it away, pick cuttings with a heel from it and root it.
Cuttings of conifers in the ground
From the branch of a coniferous plant, we tear off a stalk with a heel, i.e. with a piece of wood. Cut off the coniferous needles from the lower third of the cutting (if any) with a pruning shears and dip it into the root stimulator.
Disinfect the sand with a strong (dark pink) solution of potassium permanganate and pour it into a container. Use a peg at an angle of 45 ° to make holes 3 cm deep. Plant the coniferous cuttings for rooting at a distance of 5 cm. Press the sand at the base of the cuttings, filling the voids. Cover the plantings with a transparent bag or jar. Place in a shaded area and regularly ventilate and water.
Dig the container in the greenhouse in the fall.
If in the spring the container is illuminated by the sun, then it will need to be shaded.
At the end of spring, the cuttings are transplanted for growing, after checking the presence of roots (carefully remove the cutting from the sand).
Cutting conifers at home
Cuttings of thuja, cypress and juniper are suitable for winter propagation:
In the spring, when mass planting begins (May), rooted cuttings of conifers are planted for growing in a semi-shady place.
After 1-2 years, young conifers can be transplanted to a permanent habitat and immediately think about the future.
I won't be mistaken if I say that among decorative crops today, evergreen conifers rightfully solo. It is unlikely that you can buy all the plants you like (prices still bite), but if you want to multiply - please. And the most affordable way obtaining high-quality high-quality planting material - cuttings.
So says the head of the botanical garden of the Belarusian State Agricultural Academy, candidate of agricultural sciences Anna Gordeeva.
The success of cuttings depends on many factors, - says Anna Petrovna. - This is the choice of the mother plant (an adult plant from which the cuttings are taken), the time and technology of cuttings, as well as the conditions in which it will form root system... Moreover, a violation at one of the stages can nullify all the work.
Of the coniferous crops traditionally used for gardening, representatives of the cypress family are most easily cuttings - thuja, microbiota, cypress, juniper, tuyevik and yew. It is very difficult - ate, hemlock and pseudo-love. And pines, fir and larch are practically not amenable to cuttings. The beginning of spring - best time for grafting. Plants just wake up from winter sleep, sap flow begins and buds awaken.
Thuja, juniper, cypress and yew, you can try to cut in the summer (late May - early June), when it ends spring growth and lignification of young growths will begin. But since the processes of respiration and transpiration (evaporation of water) are more intense in actively growing shoots, their rooting is possible only with the use of fogging devices. And then it will be stretched in time: in the first year, callus is formed, and the roots - in the next season.
You can also cuttings in August, when the shoots are just beginning to lignify, or already in September - November, completely lignified shoots. But they too will take root in best case only next year. With spring cuttings most of planting material will give roots already in the first.
For grafting, it is better to choose young, actively growing trees. The ability to form roots in plants decreases with age. Good results are obtained using queen cells, the age of which is 4 - 8 years. For some conifers, the location on the crown of shoots intended for grafting matters. In creeping and bush forms, the location of the cutting does not play a significant role. It is enough just to choose the most developed and well-lit by the sun (especially in the variegated varieties) part. In pyramidal species, so that the seedlings grow straight and retain the shape characteristic of the "parents", cuttings are cut from the central branches of the first or third order. It has been noticed that plagiotropic (lateral, growing horizontally) branches of columnar plants, as well as spruce and yew, during rooting for a long time (up to 5 - 7 years) retain an inclined, sometimes even creeping shape.
Shoots are best cut early in the morning or on a cloudy day. This will minimize moisture evaporation as much as possible. The length and thickness of the cutting are also important for successful root formation. Annuals side shoots most conifers are usually 5 to 15 cm long. Accordingly, the cuttings taken from them will be of the same length. Apical annual shoots some junipers, thujas and cypress trees reach 25 cm. They can also be used on cuttings without cutting into pieces. The vigorous apical shoots of thuja take root somewhat worse, but the plants obtained from them always have an ideal shape.
It is important to select cuttings with an intact and normally developing apical growth point. Otherwise, in the future, the seedling will bush strongly, especially in golden forms. Very thin shoots should not be harvested: they will be exhausted before they take root. And it is desirable to take cuttings with a "heel" - part of the wood of the previous year. Therefore, they are not cut off with a pruner, but are torn off with a sharp downward movement. The place of separation is not cleaned, and if the "tail" of the bark is very long, it is cut off.
If the shoot is separated with a knife or a sharp pruner from a large shoot, then the cut is made 0.5 - 1 cm below the beginning of the lignification site (transition from green to brown). All needles and small lateral branches are removed from the lower part of the cutting (2.5 - 4 cm from the base). The wounds formed when they are cut off also stimulate root formation.
Sometimes, for rooting of creeping juniper varieties, two-, three-year-old shoots are placed horizontally in grooves 2 - 3 cm deep and sprinkled with sand 2/3 of the length. In 1.5 - 2 months thanks to rudiments adventitious roots the plant will take root.
Freshly cut cuttings of pine, spruce, larch, in order to remove the resin released on the cut surface that interferes with the absorption of nutrients, it is necessary to soak for 2 - 3 hours in water. Before planting, the cut must be updated again. To protect the shoots from decay, they can be dipped 1/3 of their length into a light pink solution of potassium permanganate.
Shoots will root better if the lower ends sharp knife make longitudinal cuts or split their base to a depth of 1 cm. Thanks to this technique, a large surface of the cambium will be exposed, and its cells will more easily form roots.
Put the prepared cuttings for 12 - 24 hours in a solution of any root-forming agent (Heteroauxin, Kornevin, succinic acid salts) or powder their slices with the preparation before planting in a greenhouse. According to the observations of scientists, with prolonged soaking, the bark begins to flake off the shoots. Therefore, the use of powders for dusting is preferable.
Treated and prepared cuttings are planted in the substrate. But since the rooting of some coniferous crops can take a year or more, it is very important to carry it out correctly. If there are many cuttings, they are usually planted in hotbeds or greenhouses. One or more can be planted in flower pot... At the bottom we pour a 15-centimeter layer of fertile steamed (for disinfection) loose soil (sod or leafy with coniferous bedding), mixed (1: 1) with calcined sand. Top - 3 - 5 cm washed coarse sand... Cuttings also root perfectly in a mixture of peat and sand (1: 1 or 2: 1), peat and vermiculite (1: 1), peat and perlite (1: 1).
But you can't just stick the shoot into the substrate. First you need to make a hole with a wooden peg, and then insert the handle into it vertically or at an angle of 45-50 degrees, tightly squeezing the ground around. Planting depth depends on the size of the cuttings and the breed. Usually planted to a depth of 1–5 cm. The distance between cuttings in rows is 4–7 cm, and between rows is 5–10 cm. After planting, the bed is carefully watered (through a fine sieve), trying to wet all layers of soil. Then cover with a frame and shade.
In coniferous crops, roots are intensively formed at an air and substrate temperature of at least plus 21 - 24 degrees and a relative humidity of 95 - 100 percent. It is good if the soil temperature for difficult-to-root rocks is 3 - 5 degrees higher than the air temperature. To accelerate growth and avoid diseases, plantings are periodically watered with solutions of "Fundazol", potassium permanganate and "Epin".
On personal plot a small rooting rack can be arranged in the greenhouse. It is installed against the northern wall so as not to shade other greenhouse crops, and is tightly covered with foil or glass. The bottom of the rack should be with slots or holes for drain excess water: coniferous cuttings do not tolerate waterlogging. Rooting is much better under artificial fog conditions.
If there are few cuttings, you can try to root them in mini-greenhouses, under glass jars, plastic wrap or plastic containers.
To decorate the territory, landscape designers often use conifers in their own compositions. They look great both in individual plantings and in complex plantings. Due to the fact that conifers belong to evergreens, the decorativeness of the site remains all year round.
- Pine varieties
- pests
- and Reproduction Diseases
- Using
Non-specialized pine information
Pine is a long, arboreal plant that belongs to the conifer family. It has a wonderful root system, the main root has the shape of a rod and goes deep into the ground for a couple of meters, long lateral growths extend from it. Some pine varieties can be about 75 meters high.
The trunk is thick, strong, covered with bark, its color is possibly from gray to yellow-red, from time to time peeling. The branches grow from the main trunk and grow stiff as they grow.
On young sites, needle-like needles grow in bunches from 2 to 5. Each year the tree forms many cones, which mature in a year and shed many seeds.
Pine trees are long-lived trees and can grow for over 350 years.
Thanks to the main root that goes deep into the soil and can extract in that place nutrients for wood, green beautiful woman grows both on fertile soils and on sandy and rocky areas. Only a couple of species take root in the city, since the main part of the pine species is highly sensitive to air pollution.
Pine varieties
Popular pine varieties:
- Aristat pine. It's a long evergreen tree with bushy top, which reaches a height of no more than 15 meters. Rarely used in decorative purposes to decorate the site, since it requires regular removal of dead needles from the branches. But it looks great in the form of a bonsai. Has beautiful small buds.
- White pine is mostly seen in Japan. It is a long evergreen tree with straight and few branches and a graceful trunk closely covered with long needles. It can be about 20 meters high. This variety differs in that the lower part of the needles is painted in a silvery tone. Cones are medium in size, ovoid.
- White pine. This variety is widely distributed practically throughout the entire territory of Eurasia. White pine forms a low long tree up to 10 meters with a wide, dense and spreading crown up to 7 meters in diameter. It is unpretentious to the soil and the place of growth and reacts perfectly to pollution and air smoke. Based on this, it is quite often possible to find it in city and park gardens.
- Mountain pine grows in the form of a tree; in cultural and decorative plantations, a multi-stem bush is formed from it. It is unpretentious to the ground, grows well on the Crimean slopes, keeping them from collapses. Quite often used in ornamental plantings. On an industrial scale it is used in the woodworking industry.
Care
When choosing a pine planting site, you need to consider a couple of points. This tree is drought tolerant and does not tolerate waterlogging well. Proceeding from this, it should be planted on well-lit soils with a good drainage system without the occurrence of groundwater.
Pine is not demanding for the soil composition, but it needs a sufficient amount of sand or clay. Before planting, it is recommended to check the soil and, if necessary, add the right amount when digging.
When preparing the hole, it is possible to lay drainage in the form of pebbles or expanded clay on the bottom, and mix the sod soil with clay or sand in proportions of 2: 1.
For the most part, all adult pine trees tolerate winter and frost well. But young trees with tender needles are recommended to be insulated on cold period of the year. For this, it is possible to use spruce branches or other ergonomic materials. So that the disease does not appear in the ground and on trees, it is recommended to systematically remove fallen needles under the trees.
This process can be carried out 2 times a year or as needed.
Reproduction
Pine propagates by seed, cuttings and grafting. For the first method, you need to pick up the ripened cone and reach the grains out of it. This can be done by placing it in paper bag, which, for its part, should be placed in a warm place.
Shake the container with the contents sometimes. When heated, all the petals of the cone open, and the seeds easily come out of the sinuses.
Before planting, the seeds are treated with stimulants to enhance the germination rate. The process is carried out in autumn period... They are sown in wet sand at a shallow depth, the container is taken out into a cool room.
Temperature environment maintained within 1-5 degrees. This can be a basement or any other cool room.
In the spring, containers are brought into a warm room, and the earth is sifted to extract seeds.
They are again sown in the prepared loose and light soil, deepening each seed by 2 cm. A greenhouse is made over the crops by means of glass or film, and the entire container is placed in a bright and warm room. The substrate must be invariably wet, for this it is sometimes necessary to water it with a spray bottle with soft water at a temperature external environment... At the time when shoots appear, the greenhouse can be cleaned. So that the sprouts do not get sick, it is recommended to treat them with a fungicide solution.
Throughout the season, the sprouts are being cared for, it is possible to plant young growth only by autumn, and for the winter to warm them with spruce branches.
When cuttings, all the characteristics of the parent plant are preserved.
This is one of the most ergonomic breeding methods conifers, in which it is possible to pick up a lot from one tree source material... But the reproduction of pine by cuttings is difficult, a small percentage takes root, and when improper care it is possible to lose all the seedlings.
Pine cuttings:
- Cuttings are performed in spring and to obtain the starting material choose young treenot grown in the wild. Young annual branches are selected, which grow upward. The stalk is taken along with the part of the tree to which it is attached, the so-called heel.
- In order for all the resins to come out of the wood, it is recommended to hold the cuttings for about 3 hours in water, after which they are treated with disinfectants. To enhance root growth, you need to hold the branches in the stimulating solution for about 12 hours.
- A container is pre-prepared with a prepared substrate and drainage at the bottom. The soil should be light and loose; for this, peat is mixed with turf soil and sand in equal proportions.
- The cuttings are buried 4-5 cm, placing them at a distance of 10 cm from each other.
- At the end of planting, you need to organize a greenhouse and add bottom heating. And if most of the trouble with the first does not appear, then it is quite difficult to organize the correct heating at home.
- Gardeners advise placing containers in boxes with semi-rotten compost, manure, or simple autumn pages. In the course of decomposition, enough temperature is released so that the cuttings acquire heat.
- Cuttings are placed in a lighted place, it is possible to root on the street in intentionally prepared beds, for this, the compost is laid out under drainage.
- At the end of the planting, a greenhouse is built.
The rooting period in pine is long, therefore, the seedlings should not be touched in the initial year after planting. A good root population will grow only by the end of the next fall, provided that the cuttings were planted in the spring.
Diseases and pests
From pine diseases to decorative plantings blistering rust or seryanka is much more common. It is possible to notice by yellow bloom at the ends of the needles. Such trees are not treated, they are removed from the site and destroyed.
In order to prevent the disease, it is necessary for preventive purposes to systematically treat trees with preparations containing copper in the composition.
The most popular pests that can attack a tree are aphids and caterpillars. For the most part, they settle on the edges of young shoots and damage the buds and needles. They can be removed with special insecticides by treating all plants and trees that grow nearby.
Using
Pine is used in many industries. Its wood has a soft structure, which makes it easy to process and prepare carved home decorations, furniture, as well as build houses from it. In addition, this tree is quite often used by landscape designers to decorate a site near the house or to compose an alpine slide.
Many conifers own medicinal features. Folk recipes quite often include young shoots or pine cones. They make tinctures, medicines and lotions.
Conifers in the photo
Conifers originate mainly from North America, Japan, China and Russia (Siberia). Harsh climate conditions biological resistance conifers trees to both lowered and high temperatures, as well as a high need for soil and air moisture, but not waterlogging. Roots with a superficial root system are spruce, thuja, and junipers. They also do not tolerate soil compaction around tree trunks.
Planting and care pit conifers in the garden should correspond in size to the root system or earthen coma.
After planting, you need abundant watering, which is carried out even on rainy days. It is needed to settle the earth around the roots. After watering trunk circle, which in size should correspond to the diameter of the crown, mulch with one of following materials: sawdust, peat, sand or just dry earth.
Large-sized conifers aged 10-12 years can be transplanted in two terms - at the end of September and during October and March. Planting material should be packed with a lump of earth in burlap. Brought planting material must be placed in water for two days until the coma is completely soaked. Then the lump hardens after 1-2 days, and only then the plant is planted.
Large planting pits are prepared in advance. If the soil is bad, they are covered with fertile soil. After planting, watering is necessary every 2-3 days, and spraying - every day. New roots are formed in about 1.5-2 months.
Five years ago I retired and began to live in the country in the summer. She was engaged in the reproduction of shrubs (spirea and hydrangeas), as well as clematis from cuttings taken from plants of gardening friends. The entire range of these plants in my garden is grown by cuttings. A separate conversation about the rooting of coniferous cuttings. Today I have more than a hundred rooted conifers: western and eastern thuja; junipers ordinary, Cossack, Chinese, horizontal, medium, rocky and scaly; Lawson cypress trees, pea-fruited, obtuse; yew; tuyeviks.
Junipers and thuja root quite easily, cypresses and yews are worse, spruce and pine trees are practically unrealistic. When to take cuttings.
Cuttings can be taken from spring to late autumn. But the best time is April-May, when the energy of growth intensifies. Podzimnye cuttings are in a preserved state and begin to take root only in spring.
What cuttings to take.
It is necessary to choose small branches from the middle part of the plant so that the stem is almost completely yellow color, and only its base would be brownish (the beginning of lignification). The best stalk is with a heel, i.e. torn from a branch with a base, but you can also cut it off. The heel should be shortened so that the end of the cutting takes a rounded shape. Twigs and needles should be removed from the lower part of the cutting to a planting depth of about 3-4 cm. Stimulation of root formation.
The best stimulant for root formation is a 5% solution of regular sugar (about a teaspoon per 100 ml of water).
To stimulate, you can use any drugs intended for this purpose: heteroauxin, succinic acid, root, humate, NB 101, etc. It is necessary to carefully read the instructions and observe the concentration and holding time in the stimulant. Violations of these parameters are often bad for results.
Sugar solution does not have these disadvantages.
With a 5% sugar solution, everything is very simple. Put the prepared cuttings into the sugar solution as soon as possible. They can be kept there until landing. For example, if you brought cuttings in the afternoon or evening, it is better to plant in the morning. If it didn't work out in the morning, it doesn't matter, they will be there before you have time to land them. There is no need to rinse out sugar. Where and how to plant.
It is best to plant directly into the ground, in all kinds of bowls and cups it is very difficult to withstand optimal humidity land. It cannot be too damp or dry. It can be planted in a greenhouse or outdoors, but the place should be bright and shaded, without direct sunlight.
The earth must be moisture and breathable. It is good to add peat and sand. Do not add ash and other deoxidizers, conifers grow on acidic soil.
Plant the cuttings, squeeze the soil tightly around the stem and water normally so that the earth sits tightly around the cutting. But keep in mind that this is the only normal watering for the next month, or even 2.
Cutting care.
Those who live in the summer in the country and are ready to jump around the cuttings may not cover them with cans, etc.
It is necessary to spray the cuttings several times a day from a sprayer or simply with a hand from a bucket. Wet the earth very moderately, but also do not let it dry out.
Those who visit the dacha on weekends can choose a shaded place for planting and cover the cuttings with cut pieces plastic bottles, it is better with a cork, so that you can open the plugs for ventilation, and then open them altogether. Finally, remove the cans when growths begin to appear on the cuttings. But this does not mean that they already have roots, often cuttings begin to move into growth when they have just formed a callus.
Spray constantly for the first couple of weeks, then less often, but it all depends on the weather. In such heat as last summer, it was necessary to spray even from a watering can, otherwise the earth would dry out and they would dry out.
I prefer to plant without cans and bottles, but in this case there is more care to take care of. Rooted plants are hardened and more viable. Greenhouse conditions under the banks, in our climate it is fraught. I do not advise replanting them immediately after rooting, the newly formed roots are very fragile and very fragile. Top dressing can be carefully started immediately after planting the cuttings in the form of spraying with complex fertilizer. For foliar dressing I use Kemira Lux, the concentration is a slightly pink solution by eye.
I feed already growing plants with Kemira for evergreens in spring.
The number of rooted cuttings depends on many factors. The main ones are the landing dates, proper care and experience. I have with spring planting takes root up to 90%. You have to try, it doesn't always work out right away, it's fun for the stubborn and patient. For beginners, 20-30% is a normal result.
Before winter, plant the cuttings as usual. Before the onset of cold weather, the care is the same, only less often you have to spray - there is already enough dampness. For the winter, I mulch the ground in a cuttings planting with peat or humus. I don't do anything else, they are small and hibernate under the snow quite normally. In the first winter, the main thing is to keep the roots - they will get wet if planted in a low place. Be sure to mulch the ground. All transfers from autumn dates postpone until spring, young seedlings will not have time to catch on to the ground, it will sit down during the winter and they will fall out.
I try to plant the rooted cuttings to the already matured ones. It seems to me that in the company of brothers they feel better. When in such a communal apartment it becomes clearly crowded, someone has to be evicted. Therefore, transplants are inevitable. Author: Sokolova Natalia, Vsevolozhsk