Perhaps all gardeners want to maximize the use of the area of the site and free beds are a rarity. Every meter of fertile land is sown with a crop, but often only one. For more productive use of space, you can use the compacted (mixed) planting method.
Few people use a similar harvesting scheme, but in vain, because it is extremely effective. The benefits are obvious:
- the volume of products obtained increases without the purchase of additional land,
- the soil does not spend its resources so actively,
- plants that get a mutually beneficial arrangement are better protected from pests,
- an increase in taste is also possible.
How to combine plants for the neighborhood?
You can focus on the ripening period of vegetables according to the alternation method. That is, after collecting early harvest of one culture, seedlings of another plant can be planted in the same soil.
Thus, crops of carrots, parsley, beets are well combined with crops of lettuce, and late white cabbage with early cauliflower. Cabbage in this case is grown seedling method.
Compactor and main crop
You can often find this type of compaction, when an accompanying plant is planted next to the main plant - a "compactor". Such a neighborhood useful for main culture due to satellite operation which may be to inhibit the growth of weeds, which can reduce the use of weed-killing poisons to a minimum.
In addition, on a densely populated garden bed, there is physically little space and the weeds simply have nowhere to grow. This will reduce the time spent weeding. In addition to useful properties neighboring cultures include:
- attracting insects for pollination,
- scaring away harmful organisms by mixing odors,
- preservation of moisture and nutrients in the ground.
In this case, the accompanying plant is capable of producing those elements that will serve as fertilizer for the main thing. An example is the enrichment of soil with nitrogen by members of the legume family.
Flower bed
At joint landing vegetable crops, the garden bed can also be organized in the form of a flower bed, planting tall plants with a long vegetative period in the middle, and planting compact, rapidly maturing crops around.
An excellent example is the cultivation of tomatoes with radishes, lettuce, spinach, turnips or summer radish according to this scheme. The main crop, in this case tomatoes, is grown in seedlings and planted after the end of the frost period.
When choosing plants for compacted beds, you should also focus on their height, it is desirable that it be different. Layering the leaves of adjacent plants will create favorable conditions for them to grow, giving them enough room to house them and collect solar energy.
Important points
- It is impossible to suppress the oppression of light-loving plants by the shade and expose sensitive crops to excessive streams of sunlight.
- Without bright light, melons, cucumbers, peppers, corn, tomato, eggplant will feel bad.
- Cabbage, turnips, radishes, onions, garlic and carrots require a little more shade. Lettuce, zucchini and parsley prefer shading;
Not only useless, but also harmful will be the neighborhood of vegetables of the same family, since they are prone to the same diseases, are equally attractive to pests and have common “gastronomic” needs.
It will be useful to read the rules.
Spices will come in handy on almost any joint landing. Due to their powerful aroma, they are able to confuse or scare away harmful insects, attract pollinators and predators that eat pests.
For example, you can plant sage, mint, oregano, marjoram, lemon balm, basil, thyme, or cilantro.
Table: Good and bad combinations of vegetables Mixed vegetable planting patterns, good and bad companions
Table: distance between different vegetables in a compacted planting.
Below you will find various combinations of vegetables, as well as plants that you don't want to plant next to a particular vegetable. Some landing patterns are given.
Tomatoes
Radishes, corn, carrots, lettuce, basil, beets, cabbage, celery, parsley, spinach, beans, marigolds, sage, peppermint.
Incompatible with turnips, fennel, dill, kohlrabi, hyssop.
Planting scheme: tomatoes and beans
Schematic: tomatoes and other crops
Spinach, together with a tomato bush, works well on strawberries, allowing them to increase yields.
- Strawberries are planted in August.
- Greens and vegetables are sown in the spring of the new year. (One tomato per meter)
- After harvesting the greenery, the rest of the crops develop well.
Cucumbers
Radishes, bush beans, garlic, beets, fennel, celery, onions, cabbage.
Incompatible with potatoes, sage, parsley.
Schematic: dill and cucumber
Carrot
Onions, peas, cabbage, beans, tobacco, sage, radishes.
Incompatible with celery, dill and other umbelliferae.
Onions and carrots perfectly protect each other from pests - onion and carrot flies!
Planting scheme for onions, spinach and carrots
Similarly, instead of carrots, you can sow parsley.
Scheme: carrots and marjoram
It is useful for carrots to coexist with sage and marjoram.
Potato
Onions, beans, corn, peas, cabbage, marigolds, nasturtium, spinach, lettuce, parsley.
Incompatible with tomatoes, raspberries, celery, fennel, broccoli.
Cabbage
Beets, parsley, dill, lettuce, peas, celery, nasturtium, calendula, geranium, mint.
Planting scheme: cabbage and beets
For a garden bed 1 meter wide.
Broccoli and carrots
- Sow in early spring carrot.
- Broccoli is planted in May.
Broccoli, lettuce and parsley
For a 1 meter wide garden bed.
- In early spring, parsley is sown in 3 rows: in the center and along the edges.
- In May, broccoli is planted between the rows of parsley. Between bushes - 45 cm, between rows - 60 cm.
- Parsley is thinned out.
- Plant lettuce seedlings at a distance of 30-45 cm.
Pepper
Basil, carrots, onions, parsley, marjoram.
Incompatible with beets.
Salad
Strawberries, cucumbers, beets, carrots, radishes, cabbage.
Planting scheme for beets and lettuce
Schematic: lettuce and other crops
Of the advantages of this planting: the salad helps to fight cruciferous flea beetles.
Pay attention! When implementing the so-called compacted planting method, do not forget about the preliminary correct fertilization soil with organic and mineral fertilizers.
Video: Thickened planting from Galina Kizima
Sowing a bed with an additional crop is not at all difficult, you just need to select the appropriate plants and the result will not be long in coming. The use of soil resources will be optimized, yields will increase, and the cultural diversity in the garden will also increase.
Memo to the gardener: Which vegetables can be planted nearby, and which cannot Consolidated seeding also helps you spend less time on farming. In addition to vegetables, you can also use decorative flower plants that will transform the site with their rainbow colors.
If you have just acquired a garden plot and are new to the art of gardening, the question naturally arises of how to plant a garden.
To answer this question, it is not enough to give a list of vegetables and berries, because there are many crops cultivated in Russia.
So start by answering five questions:
- What are your and family members' preferences for vegetables and berries?
- Do you want to grow crops for storage, canning - with a reserve, or only for the summer-autumn season, to eat fresh products?
- Can you provide garden maintenance every day, every other day, or just two days a week?
- How well is your area covered by the sun?
- How fit climatic conditions for growing vegetables and berries?
Why exactly these five questions? Because all the others that may arise are solvable. For example: the quality of the soil, proximity groundwater, however, this topic can be dealt with if desired. The soil can be improved, the site can be raised, drainage can be provided. But if the territory of the garden is under the shade of tall trees, the sun appears rarely or only through the veil of openwork foliage of pines and birches, with all your desire you will not grow all crops.
Planning landing
- Draw a plan of your site on graph paper, to scale. Format is not less than A3. No need to sketch it freehand on your knee, take accurate measurements. You will need a tape measure and an assistant.
- Mark on the plot diagram all buildings that are available and planned: a house, a barn, utility rooms, swings, gazebos, a barbecue area or a pool, all flower beds, compost heap... We mark separately the vineyard (if it exists or is planned).
- Make a copy of the site plan, for example, on tracing paper, or redraw, photocopy, as there may be several options.
- On the entire space free from buildings and flower beds, select zones according to illumination: the most sunny places and shady. To do this, spend a day and take a close look at where the shadows from trees and buildings fall.
- Note the source of the water.
- Choose places where you can put greenhouses or a greenhouse - these are the widest areas. Consider track and row spacing. The passage for the wheelbarrow must be at least 50-60 cm than more plot, the more track widths you can afford. But if the plot is small, it all depends on your appetite: are you willing to get by with 30-centimeter passages between the beds, or you need more to turn around during weeding.
- If you have compiled a large list of planned plantings in the garden, it is better to make more narrow beds of 45-60 cm than wide meter beds.
The optimal size of the beds
The beds should be planned in such a size that it is easy to care for them: sow, plant seedlings, weed and reach with a watering can.
That's why ideal sizes- this is a width of 80 cm, a length of 3-4 m, a height of 35 cm (for beds with a fence). If you have a lot of assistants for children, for example, grandchildren and children help to do weeding during the holidays, then the best width is 70 cm.
With such dimensions, it is convenient for everyone to reach with a hand from each side of the row spacing to the middle of the garden.
The maximum permissible width of the bed is 1 m, for cabbage, which is planted in two rows, you can take 100-120 cm.The width of the row spacing is at least 30 cm, optimally 40 cm, if a wheelbarrow should drive up to the bed, then 50 cm. These dimensions are for a small garden where every centimeter is precious. If your site is quite large, feel free to leave passages 60-80 cm wide.
Who needs beds
There is vegetable crops, which always grow in a separate area, each in its own garden. Moreover, some crops cannot even grow in adjacent beds - see.
But some vegetables or herbs do not need a separate corner of the garden, but can be planted with the main crop, these are: radishes, dill, lettuce, beets, turnips, beans.
Radishes, dill, and leafy greens can be grown as garden beds. For example, radishes and lettuce go well with carrots. You can also plant radishes in the garden with kohlrabi cabbage or between tomato bushes.
The beans can be planted along the edge of a potato field or next to tomatoes or cucumbers.
Salad - in the garden with onions, between cabbage bushes or cucumbers.
Beets grow well along the edge of the beds, especially if they are low, without sides. These can be beds with carrots, cabbage, onions, cucumbers. You can plant beets with a border near the strawberry garden. Wonderful beets are adjacent to grapes.
Grapes generally love some vegetables, and you can take a place next to the vines: radishes, beets, dill, cauliflower, spinach or sorrel.
Raspberries can be planted without beds, for example, along a fence, next to fruit trees, or you can make a separate raspberry plant - this is an unfenced area, in two or three rows of raspberry bushes, about 70 cm wide, with the installation of a support for tying. Two rows of raspberries can fit perfectly on one and a half meters of land, in the middle there is a 30 cm wide passage. And next to the raspberries it is worth planting sorrel - it does not allow raspberries to grow like a weed. It is impossible to plant any vegetables and berries under raspberry bushes.
What to grow in the garden
So we come to the moment when the beds are planned out, it's time to decide what to plant. We draw up the wishes of family members and look at the list:
- Tomatoes
- Eggplant
- Bulgarian pepper and hot
- Cucumbers for canning and for salad
- Beet
- Carrot
- Onions for the winter and for canning
- White cabbage early, medium, late,
- Cauliflower
- Kohlrabi
- Radish,
- Daikon
- Garlic
- Zucchini
- Squash
- Pumpkin
- Beans
- Leaf salad
- Head salad
- Dill
- Parsley
- Watermelon
- Peas
- Corn
- Early potatoes
- Strawberry
- Strawberry
- Raspberries
Yes, the list came out long ... What to do? But now we need to cross out the unnecessary. To begin with, let's make a reservation that we grow not for sale, but for ourselves. A commercial vegetable garden is a completely different article.
Therefore, if the territory of the garden and the planned beds is clearly not enough for the desired list, you need to cross out the excess on the basis of the expediency and profitability of cultivation.
For example, potatoes - to provide a family with potatoes for the winter, you need not a vegetable garden, but a separate potato field, a plot. But it is quite possible to grow early potatoes, at a time when they are extremely expensive in stores, and in the basement they are already soft and sprouted. At the same time, you only need to plant a dozen bushes in order to provide a family of 3-4 people with potatoes for a month (conditionally).
Cross out the entire list of desired vegetables and berries according to the principle that is more convenient for you personally:
- which are the hardest to grow
- which are the cheapest in the market or in a store (easier to buy)
- that take longer than you can afford
- which are more difficult to provide the right temperature, light and water
- which are incompatible with the rest of the cultures you really need
The yield of certain garden crops very different, some take large area but give a small yield, such as peas. His yield strongly depends on the variety, takes up a lot of space, and according to by and large not everyone succeeds in good peas.
Or corn - occupies a decent area, the yield does not justify it if the site is small. In addition, few people like corn from vegetables - it does not tolerate grapes and beets.
But radish is an undemanding and very profitable culture. Early vegetables are always very expensive, but the most desirable, and such as radishes, combined with many vegetables and berries, are very justified. The same goes for lettuce, basil. Dill may not be grown on purpose at all - it perfectly fills areas of the garden with self-seeding, where it is convenient for it.
If you have Small child, prone to allergies or for any reason forced to bypass dietary nutrition You may need to avoid certain crops, such as spices, legumes (other than green manure), daikon and allergenic berries, but plant a sunny bed for watermelons, melons or more cauliflower beds.
Or take a vegetable like eggplant - it's easy to grow it, you can find a place in the garden too, and it's more profitable to grow than to buy - eggplant prices are high all year round, and the vegetable goes into a variety of snacks and pickles.
And yet, climatic conditions remain the main criterion for determining what to plant in the country, because it is simply not possible to make a plant that requires a lot of light to bear fruit in the shade. With all your might, you cannot grow watermelons if the area is not sunny and warm.
Final layout of the garden
So, the list has been compiled, the possibilities have been figured out, is it time to plant? No wait. You want a rich harvest. Do not forget about the compatibility of crops in the garden.
Take the roadmap you made earlier. Now cut out the shapes of the beds from colored paper different colors by the scale of the scheme. Sign and place on the diagram as you see fit, not forgetting the orientation: the beds should be located from north to south. Then compare with the table of compatibility of cultures, are all neighbors friendly?
If there are antagonist crops nearby, move the beds on the diagram and select the best option combinations. If you're having trouble combining some vegetables, skip the less important ones. Better get good harvest one of them than a poor harvest or morbidity from both.
Do not forget that vegetables and berries compete for moisture, nutrition, light, but there is also temporary space. Some vegetables can occupy the beds in turn, giving way to each other. For example, radishes - carrots and onions.
As you remember, we made several copies of the vegetable garden diagram. Save the first version, and next year make the second with the account. Perhaps you give up some vegetables or berries and try others, or maybe you just swap the beds.
Irina Solovieva
AiF-South
Spring sowing began in the fields and gardens. Gardeners plant cabbage, onions, eggplants and other vegetables and berries. However, when planting, it is necessary to take into account many factors that at first glance seem insignificant. For example, some crops should never be planted side by side. Also, the same vegetables cannot be grown in the same garden for several years. But you also need to change the arrangement of plants according to the rules. How exactly, said the experienced gardener from Krasnodar Lyudmila Taranova.
Helpful neighbors and not so
Consideration must be given to plant compatibility. Some of them "help" each other, others, on the contrary, harm. It's all about special chemicals that plants secrete in the process of life - they have a different effect on neighbors. See our infographic for details.
We draw up a plan for the beds
Judging by the experience of gardeners, a plant should not have a permanent place in the garden. If you plant a crop from year to year, without changing its location, there will be problems with the harvest, and with the soil. The situation can be corrected by competent planning of the area of \ u200b \ u200bthe garden.
Cabbage
Do not plant cabbage and other cruciferous plants (radishes, radishes) in the same place earlier than 2-3 years later. It is better to place white cabbage after potatoes, tomatoes, onions; planting after beans, peas, carrots and beets is permissible.
Potato
The best precursors for potatoes are cabbage and various root vegetables. A poor precursor for potatoes is tomato, since these crops have common pests and pathogens. Potatoes should be grown in the same place for no more than 3 years.
Cucumbers
For cucumbers, you should look for a new place every year. They grow best after color and early white cabbage... They can also be planted after tomatoes, potatoes, peas and beets.
Tomatoes
Accordingly, you cannot grow tomatoes after potatoes. Since, we repeat, the diseases and pests of these crops are the same. Good precursors for tomatoes are cauliflower and early white cabbage, pumpkin and legumes, root crops and onions are acceptable.
By the way, if you plant tomatoes in the same place every year, then the soil in this area becomes acidic. Therefore, every autumn, for deep digging of the soil, it is necessary to add fluff lime in small quantities (from 50 to 100 g per 1 sq. M), since tomatoes grow better on soils with neutral acidity (pH 6.5-7).
Beet
Growing beets in one place should be carried out no more than once every three to four years. Beets grow well after cucumbers, zucchini, squash, early cabbage, tomatoes, early potatoes, legumes... It is undesirable to plant beets after vegetables from the haze family (chard, spinach).
Onion
Onions should not be planted in one place for more than three to four years in a row. The best predecessors of onions are crops for which large doses have been applied organic fertilizers, as well as cucumbers, squash and pumpkin, cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes. On heavy clay soils onions will not give a good harvest, he prefers light, loose fertile soils and good lighting.
Garlic
You can grow garlic in one place for no more than two years, otherwise you cannot avoid contamination of the soil with stem nematode. It is better to plant garlic after cucumbers, early potatoes, early cabbage and other early harvested crops (except for onions).
Carrot
Sowed after early potatoes, cabbage, green crops (excluding lettuce), placement after tomatoes and peas is allowed.
Eggplant
The best precursors for eggplant are cucumber, onion, early ripe cabbage, perennial herbs... You cannot plant eggplants where potatoes, tomatoes, physalis, as well as peppers and eggplants grew last year.
Strawberry
The best precursors for strawberries are radishes, lettuce, spinach, dill, peas, beans, mustard, radish, parsley, turnips, carrots, onions, garlic, celery, and flowers (tulips, daffodils, marigolds). On poor soil, the best predecessors of strawberries are mustard, phacelia (they are also honey plants). Potatoes, tomatoes and other nightshades, as well as cucumbers, are unsuitable as precursors. After them, the plots can be occupied with strawberries only after three to four years.
Strawberry
It is good to plant strawberries after radishes, beans, mustard, radish, peas, parsley, garlic. Potatoes, tomatoes and cucumbers are of little use as precursors. Strawberries cannot be placed after all species of the Asteraceae family (sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke) and all types of buttercups.
In addition, if space permits, allocate a small area for growing herbs - siderates: clover, lupine, alfalfa and others. This will give rest to the earth, the soil will gain strength for growing vegetables.
Savior flowers
It turns out that crops can be saved from diseases and pests not only by chemical means, but also by flowers that should be planted next to vegetables. Both beautiful and practical.
Good protection against pests will be provided marigold... It is good to plant them not only in flower beds next to the window, but also along the perimeter of the garden and in the aisles. Marigolds, due to their properties, scare away nematodes from tomatoes and potatoes, save strawberries from weevils, and also drive away onion flies, scoops and cabbage whites.
Flax, clover and wheat marigolds protect against fusarium.
To improve the soil on the site and in the meantime to scare off the bear, you can scatter finely chopped marigold stalks before plowing the land.
Infusion of marigolds protects peas, cabbage, apple trees, cherries, plums, currants and gooseberries from aphids
To prepare the infusion, take the ground part of the plants, grind it with a secateurs and fill the bucket to half. Pour warm (about 40-60 degrees) water and leave for two days. Then it is filtered, 40 g of liquid soap is added (so that the infusion does not drain, but remains on the plants) and the mixture is poured into a sprayer. Processing rates: for the garden - 2 liters per 10 square meters; for one bush or tree under 6 years old - also 2 liters; for fruit trees and shrubs over 6 years old - 6-8 liters.
Will help against whitefly and whitefly nasturtium... Flowers can be planted next to tomatoes and cabbage. Also nasturtium is useful for fruit trees... Plant two to three bushes under a cherry, peach, or apple tree. In autumn, flowers can be crushed and buried in the trunk circle. It is an excellent green fertilizer.
Chamomile pyrethrium nicknamed the natural insecticide. If planted next to cabbage, vegetables will not be afraid of the caterpillars of the cabbage scoop and whiteworm, as well as aphids. Try planting pyrethrum in the spring near-trunk circles apple trees. The apple tree will be reliably protected from the apple moth, aphids and other pests. Phlox neighborhood with chamomile will save from nematodes. And rodents do not like feverfew.
There is another beautiful protector of vegetables. Colorado potato beetle, for example, does not tolerate smell. calendula. Experienced gardeners advise planting calendula next to potatoes. Some people do this - in the spring they plant a row of potatoes, a row of calendula seeds, and so on. If the potatoes are already planted, plant the calendula somewhere nearby. In the fall, plant it in the land where you are going to plant potatoes next year. Calendula is a good siderat. Also, the flower will save asters from fusarium, and rose bushes from nematodes.
Lavender will protect the area from ants and aphids, and the house from real moths.
Give up completely chemicals defense is not worth it, but try to focus on natural defenders.
Spring comes, the sun warms the earth, the hot season comes for the gardener. Planning is very relevant these days useful area its site and its distribution under the beds, occupied by various crops. Today we will try to optimize your planting together by talking about the compatibility of vegetables in the beds. Some plants, as it turns out, are friends, help each other and protect from various pests, while the latter, on the contrary, cause mutual oppression of growth and even death. But we are primarily interested in getting excellent harvest... This means that the compatibility of vegetables in the beds is a very important and urgent issue.
Is spring planning necessary
Indeed, why should you re-draw your garden every year, if you can once and for all build and plant cucumbers on one, tomatoes on the other, and so on? This is convenient, but somewhat irrational. Each plant requires its own set of trace elements, and it turns out that the garden bed, which has been used for planting the same crop for many years, is oversaturated with unclaimed elements. Or, conversely, devastated by those most important to her. Therefore, crop rotation is essential. However on small area sometimes it is difficult to provide a full replacement, they are forced to use mixed landings, and therefore for correct organization they need to know the compatibility of vegetables in the beds.
What can be the beds
We are used to the fact that our land is divided into neat rectangles, on each of which one culture grows. However, there are a lot of options, and in order for your garden to be as productive as possible, you need to know the compatibility of vegetables in the beds. These may be narrow Mittlider beds that require application a large number mineral and organic fertilizers, as well as high and multi-tiered beds. The latter are quite complex in arrangement, but they are the best suited for growing several crops. In this case, you should also be concerned about the compatibility of vegetables and flowers in the same garden, because the close proximity of plants allows them to influence each other.
Compacted beds
Sowing several crops on the same bed can significantly save space and still get good results. It should be remembered: it is a little easier to maintain the compatibility of vegetables and flowers in one garden than to plant several at the same time. fruit crops... Here it is already necessary to take into account the difference in the growing seasons. However, back to the bright flower and fruit beds. Why use such a technique, is it only for beauty? It turns out not. For example, marigolds planted near tomatoes perfectly protect bushes from various pests. Other flowers serve as tasty insect traps. Plant nasturtium in your garden - all the aphids will focus on it, regardless of garden vegetables.
and scented herbs
And the greenery in the beds has long been proven, they do not compete, do not interfere with each other, but at the same time you significantly save space and get a pleasant variety for your table. Planted next to fruit bed herbs will give vegetables an exquisite taste and will protect them from insects. Rosemary scares away beetles that attack beans, thyme is very disliked by cabbage pests, aphids are afraid of onions and garlic. Oregano, like marigolds, is a reliable protection for everything fruit plot from uninvited guests.
Every gardener, even if he does not have professional knowledge, should have an idea of what the compatibility of vegetables and herbs in the beds is. It doesn't take too much for that. So, fast-growing lettuce, radishes and other spring vegetables and herbs can be planted between pumpkin and melons. By the time the powerful pumpkin stalks have grown, the radish will have been harvested. If you plan on planting shade-loving greens such as spinach, then choose tall plants that will reliable protection... For example, it could be corn. Sunflowers grow well next to corn, the plants do not compete with each other.
We discussed a little general issues, will now go directly to the views garden plants... We will look at the compatibility of different vegetables in the beds. How to plant this or that species, the neighborhood with which will bring him more benefit than harm, and much more.
Favorite peas: what to plant next to
This is a plant that gardeners do not like for its creep. However, it is worth considering the compatibility of different vegetables in the beds - and the disadvantage turns into an advantage. The fact is that it gets along well with corn, and its powerful trunks will be an excellent support. Thus, you will harvest two crops from one garden bed and save yourself the trouble of tying delicate peas. But you can go even further and unify the garden by planting beans or carrots, lettuce, radishes, parsnips or turnips around the perimeter.
What else are peas compatible with? It can be planted among cucumbers, such a neighborhood will benefit both crops. Eggplants and melons love peas, in addition, if potatoes are growing in your garden, then be sure to scatter peas over the planting, its roots will enrich the earth with the necessary microelements. But onions and garlic need to be planted away from peas, such a neighborhood is useless at all.
Beauty carrot
We continue to consider the compatibility of vegetables in the beds. Leading agrotechnical companies give advice to gardeners, recommending planting carrots along the edge of the garden with tomatoes and peas. It goes very well with various herbs. This is sage and and rosemary. Therefore, you can make prefabricated beds with fragrant leafy greens and plant them with carrots. Or vice versa. But dill and parsley need to be moved away from the carrots, such a neighborhood leads to a deterioration in the growth and development of the root crop.
Spring onion
This is the first spring source of vitamins, which is loved and grown on everyone garden plot... However, today we are talking about the compatibility of vegetables in the beds. The list of plants with which the onion is "friendly" is quite large. These are almost all the most important horticultural crops: beets and bell pepper, tomatoes and carrots, lettuce and broccoli. It is very well compatible with onions, spinach, potatoes and cabbage. However, to make you happy with planting, avoid its proximity to beans, sage and peas.
Bell pepper
A capricious culture that does not grow so well in our climatic zone as in more southerly areas. However, this can be slightly improved by choosing the right neighbors. First of all, you need to remember that it cannot be planted on the same bed with beans. But the neighborhood with tomatoes, on the contrary, is very well tolerated. Do not forget to plant herbs and aromatic herbs to make the most of the compatibility of vegetables in the beds. About ten different herbs can grow in the garden at the same time. Basil and coriander, onion and spinach go well with peppers.
Lettuce, a precious source of vitamins
Another plant that eloquently shows the compatibility of vegetables, you can count a dozen fruit crops, which from such a neighborhood will only grow even more magnificently. These are asparagus and beets, sunflowers and tomatoes. Experienced gardeners recommend planting lettuce along with white and Brussels sprouts, carrots and corn, and cucumbers. Given that lettuce grows in a low, curly carpet, it helps to conserve moisture by keeping the liquid from evaporating so quickly. Cucumbers love this neighborhood very much.
There are many ways to disembark different plants on the same bed. If this is an ordinary bed on a plane, and not a multi-tiered structure, then, in addition to interspecific competition, you need to take into account the size of the plants. The central part of the bed can be occupied by sunflowers or tall tomatoes, cucumbers, then onions and peas, eggplants can be placed. Or put peas over corn, and plant lettuce around. All these plants complement each other well.
Potato
Often it is this culture that occupies a significant part of the garden, which means that you need to carefully consider the compatibility of vegetables in the garden. Photos of garden plots of professional gardeners very often demonstrate classic combination potatoes and legumes. Indeed, beans and peas are perfectly woven over the potato planting, bringing primarily the benefits of enriching the land. Although the legume harvest will not be superfluous either. Potatoes go well with white cabbage and broccoli, corn and eggplants, garlic, lettuce and onions.
The friendliest neighbor is eggplant
Indeed, its compatibility with other vegetables in the garden is fantastic. He has no enemies, he complements almost any culture well. However, if we talk about the health and quality of growth of the eggplant itself, then experts advise planting it next to potatoes and legumes, in particular with beans and peas. Leafy vegetables are great neighbors for eggplant. Experienced gardeners recommend planting next to blue basil and lettuce, spinach.
This begs the question: "In what sequence should you plant vegetables so that the garden bed is as efficient as possible?" We propose the same scheme used by German farmers. They arrange a very wide bed for planting root crops, about 1 meter. In this case, the potatoes are located in the center ( early varieties can be planted in two rows, and later in one). On the one hand, eggplant is planted in a line, and on the other, cabbage salad, kohlrabi and cauliflower... All these vegetables can be alternated in one row. Two rows of spinach are sown along the edge of the bed, and the distance between them and the rest of the crops is sown with lettuce and radishes.
Will take place as crops mature. The green umbrella of lettuce appears first, it shades other, slow-growing crops and saves them from the scorching sun. Lettuce ripens first, then spinach, then the turn of radish comes. After about a month, it's time for head lettuce and cauliflower. Thus, the bed is gradually emptied, leaving room for the growth and development of eggplant and potatoes. Now it is clear how to use the compatibility of different vegetables in the beds. How to plant correctly - it will tell you personal experience, but for the first time use the ready-made scheme.
Peanuts - exotic in our beds
Indeed, this culture is very rarely grown in the garden, but in vain. After all, agricultural technology is no more difficult than growing cucumbers, and you get a valuable and nutritious product. The compatibility of peanuts in the garden with vegetables is due to its high needs for nutrients... He gets along well with cucumbers, which also love tall, warm and fertilized beds. In addition, any legumes can be planted with it.
Corn
A useful culture that is often undeservedly forgotten. However, it can serve as a natural support for climbing cucumbers, in addition, corn does not like aphids, which means your cucumbers will be under natural protection. Curly legumes are also perfectly compatible with corn, and can be planted around the entire perimeter of the garden. These are beans and peas. She gets along well with melons and potatoes, zucchini and sunflowers. But it is better to plant tomatoes further away.
Tomatoes
A bed of tomatoes is not so conducive to the neighborhood, since voluminous bushes tend to capture all the free space. But you can use different ways planting, for example, arrange a high mound in the center of the garden, on which to plant asparagus and basil, dill, lettuce, onions, parsley, spinach and thyme. Tomatoes love the neighborhood of legumes, so you can plant beans in the aisles. An excellent option for planting in the nearest garden there will be carrots and melons. But cabbage and corn should occupy another part of the garden.
Cabbage
As you already know, there are a lot of varieties of this plant, while at least white cabbage and cauliflower grow in each garden. It would seem that they can easily be planted on one bed, since you will remove the colored one much earlier than its neighbor is ripe. But in fact, they do not tolerate each other well, therefore, when planning a common garden, it is better to give preference to beans and celery, cucumbers. Aromatic herbs get along well with cabbage and help repel insects. These are sage and spinach, thyme, dill, onions. If the planting of white cabbage is not made too thick, then in the aisles you can grow enough greenery, as well as radishes.
Cauliflower
It grows poorly next to its closest relative, but it perfectly complements the beds with beans and beets, celery and cucumbers, sage and thyme. Dislikes tomatoes and strawberries. Broccoli goes well with all of the listed plants, but does not tolerate cauliflower at all, so you will have to form several beds for cabbage different types. Brussels sprouts- one of the most tolerant, it is better combined in the beds with other species. The only enemy is tomatoes, so tomatoes and crucifers should not be planted nearby under any circumstances. But dill and lettuce - please, you can add radishes and sage, spinach and turnips to the garden.
Cucumbers
When planting this culture, make sure that there are no potatoes, melons and aromatic herbs nearby, it is better to plant all the greens along with cabbage. Cucumber likes high warm bed, on which peas and beans, corn and lettuce, radishes will grow well with it. As in the case with the previous example of the universal bed, we allocate the central strip for corn. It will become a support for cucumber, beans and peas, which can be sown not only mixed, but also together, in one hole. Along the edge of the bed, you can plant lettuce and radishes, which will be removed quickly enough.
How to combine incompatible
This question is especially relevant if you have a greenhouse. All vegetables love comfortable conditions, however, a large greenhouse should not be empty, and it is occupied by a variety of fruit plants... To separate poorly compatible plant species, film canopies are used, with which the greenhouse is divided into certain sections. This helps to create a kind of microclimate.
Summing up all that has been said, I would like to note that planning mixed beds greatly helps to save space and significantly improves the quality of the crop. Soil resources are used more evenly, and the plants themselves serve as natural defenses for each other against diseases and pests. It should be borne in mind that the planting scheme can be changed to suit the needs of your garden, we have given only general templates. But be sure to respect the compatibility of vegetables. This simple rule always gives excellent results and at the same time does not require any additional costs and investments. From one bed experienced gardeners remove 11-15 kg of a variety of vegetables. Correct location planting in the garden also helps to conserve resources, as less water and fertilizer are required. That, perhaps, is all about what constitutes the compatibility of vegetables in the beds. The list of plants that are “friendly” and “not friendly” with each other is given at the beginning of our review in the form of a table. Use it - and a good harvest is guaranteed!
A properly organized neighborhood of vegetables in the beds can allow you to harvest a good harvest, as well as protect the plant from harmful factors. These can be pests or diseases.
If you follow simple rules, then planting vegetables will not be a problem for you, but harvested crop will be of high quality and excellent. Do not forget that the wrong neighborhood of vegetables will negatively affect the harvest and growth of crops. Not all vegetables can get along well.
Asparagus gets along with all types of crops, but it will be better if you place it next to tomatoes, parsley or basil. With cucumbers, strawberries, corn, or potatoes, place beans. Some beans are picky enough. They may not get along well with all vegetables.
To properly develop a planting plan, there are Plant Compatibility Tables, as well as planting schedules. 
And we offer you some simple combinations of vegetables that are easy to remember.
1. Wonderful trio: corn, pumpkin and beans. The American Indians knew the secret of their joint cultivation. Corn will support the peas, which saturates the soil with nitrogen. And pumpkin, in turn, prevents weeds from growing.
2. One more thing a good combination: onions and carrots. Onions save carrots from pests, as they release a substance (allicin) that has an insecticidal and fungicidal effect.
3. Tomatoes and basil are not only a good combination for a salad. These plants need the same soil and the same watering. In addition, the smell of basil is unbearable for caterpillars that often attack tomatoes. And the tomato harvest will be much tastier if ripened next to the basil bushes.
4. Green beans, bell peppers and eggplants. Peppers and eggplants are known to belong to the same family (nightshades) and require the same growing conditions. And the green beans growing nearby will protect the eggplant from the Colorado potato beetle. 
Celery is quite unpretentious. It will grow well with any type of vegetable. You can plant it with cabbage, tomatoes, or onions. Carrots get along well with onions or salad. If you plant cucumbers and potatoes nearby, the cucumbers will not grow. good quality... Corn does not tolerate close proximity to tomatoes. But it will grow well with potatoes, peas, pumpkin and cucumbers.
Plant onions next to the carrots. You can also plant it next to lettuce, beets or cabbage. Do not place it next to beans or peas. You can get poor quality crops. Potatoes will be comfortable next to corn, beans or cabbage. Tomatoes are picky in terms of neighborhood, as well as in terms of the quality of the land. It is better to place them next to parsley, carrots, cucumbers. Potatoes and cabbage can negatively affect the growth of tomatoes.
Feel free to experiment. You can change the combination of plant placement every year in order to achieve a good result. Don't forget about fertilizers.