In order to make a compost barrel with your own hands, you needed:
two plastic barrels of 200 l each, a metal pipe (of such a diameter that it does not bend under the weight of the barrels), PVC pipe, 4 door curtains, 2 latches, bolts and nuts M12, wooden beams 6 × 6 cm, and slats 6 × 4 cm ...
Installation of the "compost barrel"
In a barrel in the middle of the side, I cut out a 36x28 cm window with a jigsaw for loading raw materials. From the inside, I screwed a strip of metal to one of the long sides (photo 1) - this is a stopper so that the door does not fall into the inside of the container.
I fixed the cut piece on the curtains (opposite the metal strip), attached a handle to it (photo 2). Added two latches that hold the lid closed. Along the entire surface of the container, with a drill, I drilled a chain of holes d 12 mm at a distance of 10 cm from each other. In about half of the holes made, I inserted M 12 bolts with a length of 10 cm (photo Z) (as long as possible) and secured them with nuts so that the ends protrude into the container. I prepared the second barrel in the same way.
A piece of PVC pipe should be put on the metal pipe so as not to damage the edges of the drums when rotating.
At the ends of the containers, I drilled holes in the center and inserted a pipe, which I fixed horizontally on a wooden T-shaped base 110 cm high from beams and slats into pre-drilled holes of a suitable diameter.
Loading compost into a homemade barrel
For compost I use chicken manure, straw and a little soil (you can use dry leaves, grass cut down on the site, crushed eggshells, food waste) - I load them into barrels and moisten them with water.
I rotate the drums every three days - the pins loosen and mix the biomass, which gradually decomposes under the influence of heat and moisture. With the usual method of composting in boxes knocked down from boards, "maturation" takes from 6 to 9 months, and in my device it takes 1-1.5 months.
DIY compost container - photo
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Compost pit Is a place for disposal of organic waste. As a result of the activity of microorganisms, it decomposes garden waste, which becomes the basis for highly effective organic fertilization. In the article, we will consider options for making a compost pit with our own hands.
In one form or another, compost pits, in the form of the simplest heaps of garbage, are present on every household plot. But correct designs in the form of modern composters or specially equipped boxes can increase the amount of valuable fertilizer and the speed of its creation.
The simplest compost pit can be made with your own hands from auxiliary building materials available in the country.
Compost pit construction principles
The main function of the compost pit is to create the most comfortable environment for the life of bacteria, microorganisms, earthworms, the number of which determines the speed of the process and the quality of the resulting compost. To do this, a fairly high temperature and humidity must be maintained inside the compost heap with a regular supply of oxygen.
For this, the compost container must have the following design features:
Compost boxes are made from any materials at hand. These can be boards, slate trimmings, corrugated board, metal construction mesh and even car tires. More capital structures are built of brick or concrete. There are also lightweight, portable utilizers in metal or plastic drums.
The main sanitary requirement for the construction of a compost pit is its distance of 20 meters from reservoirs and sources of drinking water. Rain streams should not drain from the compost heap in the direction of wells, boreholes, basins.
Choosing a place on the site for a compost pit
The location of the composter on the site should not become a source of groundwater contamination, a threat to human and animal health. Avoid placing the compost pit on wetlands or in areas with standing water.
The external design of the compost pit can be absolutely anything. It can be decorated with beautifully painted shields, fenced with plantings of loach and perennial, ornamental plants.
Making a compost pit with your own hands
In a garden or backyard, you can use the simplest tools to make a high-quality structure and turn a pile of garden waste and decomposable household waste into valuable fertilizer. There are many different types of compost heaps, from earthen ditches to actual concrete structures.
Compost pit in the ground
To create a compost pit:
- In the ground, they select a site away from residential buildings.
- On an area 1.5 m wide and of arbitrary length, the top layer of sod and soil is removed.
- The bottom of the pit should be located at a depth of no more than 0.5 meters.
- The bottom is covered with a sand cushion to drain excess water.
The first layer acts as a drainage and aerates the heap and consists of pruned branches.
Layers are laid on them:
- cut grass;
- dry foliage;
- sawdust;
- household food waste;
- manure;
- weeds.
The layers are sprinkled with peat or garden soil, spilled with water. To speed up the decomposition process, it is advisable to grind all the ingredients before laying them by simply chopping them with a shovel.
The total height of the pile should not exceed 1.5 meters. This means that it will rise 1 meter above the ground. The structure is protected from above with a covering material or a slate shield. In hot weather, the pile is watered with plain water.
Under natural conditions, microorganisms will be able to process such a waste dump in two summer seasons. This is the easiest and most economical way to obtain compost.
Use EM drugs. Microorganisms need a temperature of + 4 ° C inside the compost heap to successfully process waste.
Making a compost pit from planks
For ease of use and acceleration of the disposal process, the compost container is made of boards. The optimal size of the compost bin is 1x1.5 meters.
Instructions for making a pit from boards:
Garbage is put into such a container through the top according to the general principle, starting with the branches. And you can rake out the finished compost from the bottom.
Photo: drawing of the compost box, diagram of the composter
Variants of compost pits made from planks
The slate is durable and is perfect for the walls of the compost bin. You can use both wave and flat sheet slate.
Options for making a slate composter:
- At the location of the compost heap, markings are made and the cut-to-size sheets are buried. They can be fixed with an external, wooden or iron crate.
- Alternatively, metal pipes are buried in the ground. A frame made of bars is attached to them. Outside, it is sheathed with slate. The second design is more durable.
All wooden elements should be treated with an antiseptic to prevent decay. A pit cover is made of plywood or boards. The front wall of the pit is made lower, at a level of 40-50 cm above ground level. Rigid walls allow you to cover the pit with foil or garden cover material.
Compost pit made of corrugated board
When making a compost bin from corrugated board, choose a material with an anti-corrosion coating.
Work order:
- At the chosen place, a base is built from a metal or wooden bar.
- The dimensions of the pit are selected for the length of the sheets, which makes it possible to make a compost bin with two or three compartments.
- The base is made, as for a wooden structure.
- Outside, the profile strips are fastened with self-tapping screws with gaps of 3-5 cm.
- It should be borne in mind that the metal surface gets very hot during hot summer periods.
- A cover of their plywood or boards is made from above. It is desirable to cover the frame with a protective compound.
Wire mesh compost bin
To make compost, you can make a cylindrical container from a metal mesh. In such a cylinder, the compost is well ventilated and does not rot.
How to make a compost bin:
To simplify, you can put a large-volume plastic bag (polyethylene) inside the basket, which is used for garbage. These baskets are easy to assemble and install anywhere. They are filled with waste like a compost pit. Also, compost can be made in special bags, which are sold in garden centers.
Concrete compost pit
A concrete compost pit has many benefits:
- Thick walls maintain a positive temperature for a long time.
- Such a pit is durable and reliable, unaffected by unfavorable natural conditions.
It is desirable to make it large, into two or even three compartments. In the first and second blocks, the compost of different seasons will mature. In the third, bags with ready-made compost are stored.
How to make a concrete compost pit:
When operating a concrete pit, it must be taken into account that the composting process is slowed down. To speed up the process, you need to manually add earthworms or commercially available special products to it.
Other compost pit material options
Compost pit from car tires
Car tires are quite suitable for arranging a compost heap:
Compost in an iron barrel
Old iron drums are great for composting:
- We cut both bottoms with a chisel and place them near the path.
- We put weeds, grass cuttings, and kitchen waste into the barrel.
- To increase the temperature, you can paint the barrel black, pour the compost with an ammonium nitrate solution (a matchbox on a bucket of water).
- We take out the finished compost from below. To do this, you need to lift the barrel with a crowbar.
To improve the design:
- Using a grinder (angle grinder), you need to cut the barrel into two unequal parts and punch holes in the walls for air circulation.
- Then we put them on the butt and connect with wire or rope. Cover with a lid on top.
- The advantages of this design are the easy accessibility of the contents of the barrel for worms and bacteria from below.
- To get the ready-made compost, you only need to untie the rope, and you will receive two hundred liters of ready-made fertilizer.
Compost in a plastic barrel
The ideal compost bin material is plastic... In ordinary compost heaps, the compost takes two years to prepare. In plastic drums with a capacity of 150-200 liters, you can prepare liquid compost in two weeks.
For this:
- We fill the barrel with cut grass or weeds up to half, and fill it with water to the top.
- After about three days, the fermentation process will begin.
- After using the solution, you can add water to the barrel again and let it brew for one week.
- After using up the liquid compost completely, the remaining grass is piled into a compost heap.
Compost pit made of bricks
The brick compost pit is made in three walls. It can be done with or without cement slurry. On cement mortar, the compost pit is made no more than 1 meter high. Ventilation slots must be left between the bricks.
A compost pit made of bricks without cement bond is convenient because it can be moved to another place if necessary.
In the compost pit, provide a place for throwing the compost mass. Make a lid from an available material. The front wall is made temporary so that it is convenient to take out the finished compost.
Compost pit made of concrete rings
In the inner cavity of the concrete ring, garden waste can be successfully stored and compost can be obtained as a result. For convenience the ring is partially buried in the ground, and after filling, cover with a lid or film material.
The disadvantages of the design include the absence of a lowered front wall. To unload the finished compost, you need to climb inside. Otherwise, very durable compost chambers are obtained from such reinforced concrete products.
Finnish compost pit
If you don't want to make a compost pit, you can purchase a composter using Finnish technology. It is modern with two containers, with a capacity of 80 liters. Its contents are mixed with a layer of peat and sawdust. You can also recycle food.
When the container is full, take it out and insert another. Due to the high concentration, the finished compost is mixed with earth or sand and fertilized with plants. The freed container is washed and returned to its place.
Compost and cesspool should not be confused. Organics from the garden plot are stored in containers for composting. Protein food residues should be disposed of in a sump.
What can and cannot be placed in the compost pit?
Composting reduces waste in landfills and provides our vegetable gardens and orchards with additional fertilization.
In the compost pit, first of all, organic garden waste is laid, in the form of:
- branches;
- dry foliage;
- cut grass;
- weeds;
- straw.
Good ingredients for a compost heap are:
- food leftovers from vegetarian food;
- shell of eggs;
- onion peel.
You can transfer compost with manure and chicken droppings.
The prohibited ingredients of the compost heap are:
- construction and household waste with a high content of phenols;
- remnants of printing products;
- plastic.
Protein and oily food residues are not placed in the compost, as they decompose slowly and attract mice and rats.
From plant residues, weeds with ripe seeds and roots that can take root well are not put into the compost, such as:
- sow thistle;
- wheatgrass;
- loach.
Drought-resistant plants must be dried before being placed in the compost heap so that they lose their ability to root. Sawdust can be used in moderation as it decomposes slowly and takes up nitrogen. And also do not use the feces of domestic animals and humans for composting.
Compost pit preparations
The main task of preparations containing biological activators is to accelerate the decomposition processes with the help of microorganisms.
The preparations do an excellent job with the processing of organic matter and do not allow pathogenic microflora to develop in the compost pit:
- Composting can be significantly accelerated by using "Baikal EM"... This preparation contains effective microorganisms (EM).
- The drug "Doctor Robik" significantly increases the number of effective microorganisms (EM) in compost. They are engaged in the processing of organic matter into humus, and also prevent the development of pathogenic microflora and destroy the larvae of harmful insects.
- The bioactivator has similar properties. The package of the Green Master bioactivator must be diluted in 20 liters of warm water, let it brew for 4 hours and water the compost heap. After 2 weeks, you need to turn the pile with a pitchfork. To prepare compost, one treatment with a bioactivator solution is enough.
- Good results are obtained by the drug "Compost Boost" for composting.
- Manufacturer Happy summer resident produces "Biocompostin"- a composting agent. Sanex Plus produces EcoCompost.
- The manufacturer Deson Bio K produces several types of drugs:"Green universal", "Compost of one season", "Compost for the next agricultural season", "Bioactivator for compost".
Using the preparations, you can significantly speed up microbiological processes and get compost in 2-3 months.
Bioactivators for compost
Compost pit operating rules
After the construction of the compost bin and its filling, it remains to occasionally look inside and, depending on the changes taking place, correct the decomposition process.
Tips for using the composter:
- During dry periods it is necessary to water the compost with plain water, preventing it from overheating, which leads to a reduction in the population of some types of beneficial bacteria.
- Loosen the compost heap at least once every two weeks., thereby ensuring the flow of oxygen into all, even the lowest, layers.
- Add Effective Microorganisms to the compost content in the form of solutions and various additives.
- To speed up the processes, you can add ready-made compost substrate, which contains a full range of microbiological activators.
- If the pit structure does not have a top cover, then simply tighten the top with black garden cover material, which will increase the temperature and greenhouse effect inside the structure.
Summarizing
The creation of a compost pit does not require serious material investments. You can make it with your own hands from improvised materials, which are always enough on any personal plot.
Having spent a little time making a compost pit, in the future you will not have to solve the problems of disposal of garden and household waste.
On summer cottages, a compost heap is an indispensable attribute. After all, compost is an exceptional quality organic fertilizer that enriches the soil with humus. Compost can partially or completely replace manure, which is expensive today, mineral fertilizers or specially brought fertile soil. In addition, collecting garbage and organic waste for composting, we simply clean our summer cottage area, and the territory around it.
The compost heap or containers for composting waste are usually placed in a sufficiently secluded area of the site so that they are not conspicuous and do not spoil the view. Nevertheless, they should always be, as they say, at hand. With the "classical" implementation of composting, it is necessary to create three compost heaps (or three compost bins): in one bin, the process of laying waste is going on, in the other - the compost is maturing, in the third - the finished fertilizer is waiting for removal to the beds. With regard to the size of the compost heap, most authors agree that its width should be 1.5 m; height - 1.0 ... 1.2 m; length - up to 3-4 m. It is these dimensions that are given in all kinds of reference books, and for many years they were considered the minimum necessary to provide a sufficiently high temperature and stable humidity for the normal course of the composting process. According to the same classical technology, it was advised to shovel the contents of the heaps annually to aerate the maturing compost, that is, to accelerate the process of waste decomposition. The task, frankly, is not an easy one.
However, the composting technology on the garden plot has been constantly improved (and is being improved), so that the composting process was accelerated 2 ... 3 times. So, to preserve moisture in the compost heap and to increase its temperature, the compost was covered with plastic wrap with holes to provide air access. To speed up the composting, various accelerators of this process have been developed, for example, the drug "Tamir". And the composition of organic and other components of the compost heap is easy to choose such that the composting process in it will significantly accelerate. In other words, today it is not at all obligatory to follow the rather harsh recommendations developed back in the 20th century. So in our time, the compost heap can be made very small or for this purpose the waste can be stored in a compact container with a capacity of only 1 m 3, having built it, for example, from boards.
However, remembering the cherished phrase - "laziness is the engine of pro-progress", we will not build anything. Let's just take an old metal barrel without a bottom and tweak it a bit. Firstly, to provide air access to the composted mass in the lower part of the barrel along its perimeter, we will make two or three holes, which, for example, we will drill with a drill with a diameter of 8 ... 10 mm or punch with some kind of punch (Fig. 1). Place the holes at a height of 20 ... 30 cm from the bottom of the barrel. No insulating spacers between the barrel and the ground are provided for microbes and moisture must circulate freely in both directions. Secondly, we paint the outside of the barrel with a dark paint, due to which the walls of the barrel will heat up more under the sun, providing an increased temperature inside the barrel, which, of course, will speed up the composting process.
Cooking process; compost in such barrels is very convenient. On the site we place 2 ... 3 such composite barrels, placing them in those places where waste accumulates most quickly - near the summer kitchen (food waste), near the beds (weeds). To speed up the composting process, individual components of the future compost should be laid in a certain sequence, forming layers of a certain thickness.
So, first, green plants (or substances rich in carbon) are placed in a barrel, making a layer 15 ... 20 cm thick from them. Then they put 5- centimeter a layer of manure (or nitrogen-rich substances). Next, lime, superphosphate or ash are poured into the barrel (layer - 1 ... 2 mm), after which everything is covered with a centimeter layer of earth. So we fill the barrel to the top, again laying the layers of the components in the mentioned sequence - weeds, manure, ash and earth. Cover the filled barrel with a piece of polyethylene film with holes, which, so as not to be blown away by the wind, we fix on the barrel with a twine. And so that the upcoming com-post does not dry out, it is poured over with water. Usually this watering is combined with watering the beds. Moistening the contents of the barrel, the plastic film is temporarily removed from it and a thin stream of water is directed into the barrel. Naturally, it is difficult to fill a barrel without a bottom with water, but you should not overmoisten the compost mass too much. The mass is considered normal, which corresponds to the moisture content of the squeezed sponge. If there are ants in the barrel, it means that it has dried up and the composting process has been interrupted.
In order to "automatically" maintain the given humidity in the striker, plant a zucchini, pumpkin, cucumber in a barrel. In this case, plastic wrap is no longer needed. Watering the above-mentioned plants provides the required moisture content of the compost mass. The only difficulty with this option is the need to immediately fill the barrel with layers of compost to the top.
Experience has shown that in such a construction of a compost container - an old barrel, the process of composting is accelerated, so there is no need to wait any 3 years, as in the classic version. It is not required to shovel the compost. In one summer, you manage to get several hundred kg an excellent fertilizer.
Rice. 1. Composting in an iron barrel: 1- hole in the wall of the barrel; 2 - green mass; 3- manure; 4- ash; 5- land; 6- polyethylene.
Gusev V. An old barrel instead of a compost heap. // Almanac "Do it yourself". - 2004, No. 3.
How to make the right compost? At the compost cottage, I simply dug an iron barrel into the ground. Is it correct? and got the best answer
Answer from Ђatiana Vedenina [guru]
Very bad.
How to make compost
Place the compost device (see below) in a designated area in the garden.
Lay down approx. 20 cm "brown" material for drainage and ventilation.
Add to the compost, evenly alternating: chopped dry "brown" materials (branches of trees and shrubs, paper, cardboard, sawdust, bark, straw, hay, shavings, wood ash, dry leaves); moisture-containing "green" materials (kitchen waste, cut grass, weeds, algae, tops, green manure); compost accelerators (EO are effective microorganisms, special preparations for accelerating compost, rotted manure of herbivores and bird droppings, urine, ready-made compost, earthworms, garden soil, etc.). Plants rich in useful substances significantly improve the quality of compost: nettle, comfrey and other green manure crops, yarrow, dandelion (not roots and not flowers!) And others. The alternation of "green" and "brown" layers ensures the penetration of air into the compost heap, uniform and balanced maturation of the compost in the container, and in the future - structural, fertile, correct compost. Never push or compact the contents as this will disturb air circulation in the compost bin. Over time, the mixture will go down and you can add waste to the container. When the compost bin has already been filled to the top several times, you can stop filling it and move on to the next one.
Stir and shovel the compost from time to time with forks for better air access and even moisture in the compost. Maintain moisture in the maturing compost bin with watering. However, avoid stagnant water in the compost bin. An unpleasant smell of ammonia (rotten eggs, rotting) from the compost bin indicates an excess of "green" materials and a lack of oxygen. Add brown waste to the compostar and stir the mixture.
Answer from Maria[guru]
Could be so.
Answer from Lily viruina[newbie]
Better fence the place, put a wooden pallet on the ground, pour waste on it all summer, but do not forget to water this business. If you are not lazy - turn it around several times a season, that's all)
Answer from Mityai Bukhankin[guru]
why dig in? what would rot too?
Answer from Olga[guru]
How to take it out? I have two boxes without a front wall and you can drive up in a wheelbarrow WHILE one pile ripens under a black film, the other is filled
Answer from Elena orlova[guru]
I just have a barrel by the fence. So I pick it up full, and close it for the winter, but I don’t dig it in, it’s already heavy, they don’t take it away, but they want it, then they turn it over and throw out the contents, if someone wants to steal the barrel, it’s really easier to turn it over and pour the contents onto the film. and then onto the ridges. and so it is inconvenient to scoop out of the barrel with a shovel if especially less than half of the compost remains,
Answer from Keymaster of Fate[guru]
Not right. How to take out? I have a leaky dumpster. Turned over and all the cases. In addition, the temperature in the air is higher than in the ground.
Answer from Alla Tarasova[guru]
No, it’s wrong. There must be access to air and rainwater, and without stagnation thereof at the bottom of the barrel. Otherwise, instead of composting, rotting occurs, as a result of which substances harmful to the soil (acids, etc.)
Answer from A. Vasilievna[guru]
The barrel should be without a bottom, and it is not necessary to dig it in.
Answer from Alla Lebedeva[guru]
I have one container dug in, and next to it I bought a prefabricated plastic composter.
Answer from Tatiana M[guru]
Compost heap. DIY organic fertilizer (video)
Answer from 2 answers[guru]
Hey! Here's a selection of topics to answer your question: How to make the right compost? At the compost cottage, I simply dug an iron barrel into the ground. Is it correct?
Are you against mineral chemical fertilizers? Do you want to minimize the use of chemical fertilizers in your garden? Then this article is for you. Take a look around. Right under your feet is what, when used correctly, will become humus that can be scattered in the garden, vegetable garden and flower beds.
Interesting fact:
Already in the 10th century, the secrets of composting
were known to the Slavic tribes,
for example, the Polabian Slavs.
Compost is a natural universal organic fertilizer, which any gardener, gardener and summer resident can get without unnecessary material costs and without much difficulty. Compost has a beneficial effect on the structure and fertility of the soil. You just need to be able to properly prepare it.
Rule 1
Where and what is the best way to prepare compost
There are two options:
Compost pit / heap
Compost box or barrel
Benefits of a compost pit / heap
No need to look for additional materials and no need to build anything. You just dug a hole no more than 0.5 m deep and 1.5 mx 1.5 m in size and put organic residues (kitchen waste, weeds, fallen leaves, etc.) into this hole (over time, a heap will turn out).
If desired, when the pit is filled flush with the ground, you can build on the walls. I have them about 0.5 m high. However, the compost heap has long exceeded this mark. But I didn't build on anything.
If the compost pit / heap is supported by walls, then comfortable conditions will be created inside the pit for the work of anaerobic organisms that live only in the absence of atmospheric oxygen
Disadvantages of a compost pit / heap
There is a compost pit on my property, which has already turned into a heap. However, it is bulky, looks untidy (fortunately, it is located behind the shed and hidden from view). And most importantly, it's impossible for me to shovel it.
It will not be possible to obtain high-quality compost in a compost pit in 1 year. It will take at least 3 years. But it is visible and invisible in it. Worms are free there, they grow long and fat. It is in the compost pit that the husband digs worms when he is going fishing. And carp on such a worm is excellent.
(pelvis diameter - 40 cm)
Compost box or barrel
I also put a basket and two compost drums in the garden. It's comfortable. While plant residues for compost are piled in one container, in another container the compost matures under a lid, and the finished compost is removed from the third container for gardening needs.
I adapted a leaky metal barrel and a cracked plastic barrel for compost. I also punched holes in the bottom of the plastic.
The height of the barrels is no more than 70 cm, so that it would be convenient for me, with my short stature, to put plant residues in them and pour out the slops.
My compost box is made of planks. But you can make it from cement-particle boards 20 mm thick or metal mesh.
Benefits of barrels or boxes
Can be placed anywhere in the garden / vegetable garden.
Due to its compactness, it will not take up much space.
Looks more aesthetically pleasing than a pit / heap.
Thanks to the holes and cracks, we get a kind of ventilation, which means that enough air is supplied to the future compost, which is so necessary for the life of microorganisms.
The finished compost can be taken from the lower layers (through pre-made holes) as needed.
In a barrel or box, the compost does not dry out and is not washed out.
A barrel or box with matured compost can be adapted for growing cucumbers or squash. It turns out a kind of high bed.
Rule 2
What you can compost
1. All plant residues and weeds from the beds and garden, except:
* weeds with ripe seeds
* diseased plants
* weeds treated with herbicides
I put plant residues unsuitable for compost in a special heap, hidden in the back behind the fence. Or I take it out of the site.
2. Mowed grass, fallen leaves, straw, sawdust and, if present, peat.
By the way, about the fallen leaves.
Leaf litter significantly improves the quality of the compost. But it all depends on the type of wood. For example, lime leaves, which contain a lot of lime, quickly decompose and form neutral humus, thereby enriching the compost.
3. Household (kitchen) waste, slop.
If slops from the kitchen are regularly poured into the barrel with the compost, then the barrel does not need to be watered on purpose. And so it takes up to 3-4 buckets of water a day.
4. Ashes and, if any, bird droppings.
The alternation of layers occurs naturally, which has a beneficial effect on the compost. The fact is that vegetable peelings, weeds, cut grass contain a lot of nitrogen, sawdust - carbon, ash - potassium and trace elements.
Manure (slurry) I don't put it in compost. First, we do not have this "good". Secondly, with manure there is a risk of bringing diseases and pests into the compost. Here it is necessary to ensure that the compost rotates for 2 years, or maybe 3, depending on the conditions.
It is not necessary to add soil to the compost heap. This can lower the rotting temperature and thus slow down the organic composting process.
Rich harvests for you,
Katerina Shlykova
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