This technology for arranging beds was invented by him for reasons of extreme necessity: in a hot region in summer, the situation with water is extremely tense and gardeners invent all kinds of irrigation methods or agricultural techniques that significantly reduce the need for plants in water.
In central Russia (we are on the border of zones 4 and 3), the weather does not always indulge in warmth (it doesn’t happen year after year), however, there are no problems with water, but we also have such a technology for arranging beds will come in handy:
- a thick layer of organic matter is laid, which, when overheated, releases heat, which is important in a cold region for comfortable living of plants in the garden
- multi-layered organics will nourish the plants for several years, and the lower layer of thick pieces of wood, in general, for 8-10 years.
- the second from the bottom drainage layer of branches works as a condensate accumulator, which makes it possible not only to reduce watering, but also, in general, to exclude watering as one of the stages of the technological process in growing vegetables
Rozum Vladimir Nikitovich is an eminent gardener who devoted the lion's share of his life to the issues of organic farming. One of his most useful and most exploited achievements was the technology for creating and operating warm beds. This article is completely devoted to the issue of construction and use of the warm beds of Rozum.
This type of beds allows, with the help of certain manipulations, to turn into quite fertile soil even the soil that for many years did not lend itself to any cultivation and on which only weeds grew. Yields on this kind of bed are at least 30-35% higher than usual, depending on the particular variety of crop that you intend to grow.
Did you know? The organic layer of the bed, decomposing, will release a lot of carbon dioxide, which is one of the most important nutrients for any plant.
Having created such a bed once, you will not need to carry out the same manipulation every year, since its service life is practically unlimited. After that, it remains only from time to time to update the organic layer to improve nutritional processes.
The construction of such a structure is possible in almost any season. Naturally, You will get the best result when creating in the spring and summer. But you can create it on the eve of winter frosts: during the cold period, the earth will have time to restore its natural balance in a natural way.
Learn how to make high beds in the country with your own hands.
Distinctive features of the method
The main distinguishing quality of the Rosum intensive bed is, of course, extremely fast growth and excellent yields. This effect is achieved due to the huge number of microorganisms, fungi and other ground living creatures, which produce a great variety of nutrients, while not requiring any additional chemical top dressing. Which smoothly brings us to the second feature - the high environmental friendliness of such beds. 
Did you know? The process of active depletion of the soil began in the 20th century due to incorrect and overly active tillage. It was then that such an industry as organic farming was born.
When using this technology, keep in mind that you won't have to dig new trenches every year, as all you need to do is renew the organic layer and green manure the soil in early spring and it's ready to be reused again.
Rosum's garden with their own hands
Below you can find information on how you can make Rosum beds yourself on your site. Keep in mind that the information provided only describes the general concept, and you can always improve on the original technology with your own innovative improvements.
markup
The general outline for creating these beds implies approximately the following markup: organic components will be in the center, the width of the central part should be about 50–60 cm. On both sides of the central part there should be fodder beds 30–35 cm wide, on which the necessary you cultures. On the sides of each of the feed beds are lawn paths, the width of which should also be about 60 cm.
A properly planted lawn will serve you for a long time. It is important not only to choose the right grass for the "green fields", but also to get a lawn mower that will help care for the lawn, make it thicker and more beautiful.
Important! The Rosum bed should be created on prepared soil. Preliminary preparation involves loosening the soil (10–15 cm) and removal of weeds.
Thus, each warm bed should occupy about 1.2–1.3 m, they will be separated by lawn paths 0.6 m wide. Having made the necessary measurements and preliminary marking, you can proceed to the direct formation of a groove for organic components.
Groove
The groove should be strictly in the center of the bed. It, as a rule, is made wedge-shaped, about 25–30 cm deep. For the formation of this recess, Fokin's flat cutter is best suited. You can even use a simple hoe. 
organic
Thick branches are laid at the bottom of the groove, in extreme cases even whole logs or boards will do. Further, smaller branches are laid on a layer of large branches, everything is distributed in an even layer. 
Important! To prevent small rodents from settling in your garden bed, which can later harm the crop, you can cover the bottom of the groove with a fine-mesh metal mesh.
Following this, you need to place a layer of organic matter, moreover, you can place both fallen leaves, grass, hay, and food waste or manure, this does not play a significant role. Then everything should be properly tamped, and you can proceed to the next step. 
Solution
For better development of microorganisms and attraction of more ground living creatures, any EM preparation should be added to the organic layer: Baikal, Emochka, Radiance, etc. This will start the process of rapid fermentation and contribute to composting. To protect against the Colorado potato beetle and other harmful insects, you can use a solution of the drug "Metarizin", although this is not a prerequisite. 
Mulching
The final stage of preparation is the mulching of the organic layer. To do this, over the contents of the central groove, it is worth applying a layer of 7–10 cm of organic (sawdust, needles, humus, hay) or inorganic mulch. 
Such a warm "cover" is designed to significantly speed up the natural processes of decomposition of organic matter, which, in turn, will contribute to the best yield of your crops. 
Features of planting crops
The only implicitly followed rule of how to plant on the beds of Rozum is planting on fodder plots. It is impossible to plant plants on the central part, as this will contribute to the rapid depletion of the supply of fertile properties. 
In the first year after the creation of the beds, it is recommended to sow them with crops that require hilling. Such a structure of the aft part will allow the groove to deepen and bring it to a state that is most useful for subsequent landings.
In the following years, planting crops such as zucchini, cucumbers, tomatoes, pumpkins and cabbages is possible. If for some reason you did not renew the organic layer before any of the seasons, the bed can still be used for growing crops that are not demanding on nutrients, such as greens or peas.
The use of warm beds of Rozum can turn loamy unproductive soils into pure black soil in 2 years and give an increase in yield by 30-35%. Therefore, don't put off using this great productivity tool. Good luck to you and your site!How to arrange the beds on the site, how to fill them, to what height to raise and how much fertilizer to apply? Your harvest directly depends on the answers to these questions, but what to choose so as not to miscalculate?
While someone arranges the beds in the garden in the old fashioned way, the inquisitive minds of summer residents around the world are working on solving an important question - what arrangement of beds will contribute to the growth of productivity and facilitate the work of the gardener? Practitioners and theorists of garden art from the USA, Russia, Ukraine and other countries offer their own options, and you just have to choose the best one.
The oldest unusual beds can be safely considered the Mittlider beds - they appeared more than 40 years ago and became a real "bomb" in gardening. Since then, this method has been tried almost all over the world, and both its advantages and quite obvious disadvantages have been identified.
How to make beds according to Mittlider
The dimensions of the beds are strictly defined - their width is 45 cm, earthen sides 10 cm high are located along the edges, and the passages between the ridges should be 90-100 cm wide. The location of the beds also does not tolerate variations - only from east to west, strictly in a sunny place, otherwise the result will be far from ideal.
However, making such ridges is still half the battle - the placement of vegetables on them is also important. Each culture according to the Mittlider method has a strictly verified planting pattern. So, onions and other compact crops are planted in 4 rows, squash and tomato bushes in 1 row along one of the sides, medium-sized vegetables and root crops - in 2 rows.
And finally, the most important step is the regular application of mineral fertilizers to the soil. Before planting, light soils are saturated with calcium and boron at the rate of 100 g per 1 linear meter, and for heavy soils this rate is doubled. Then, every 7-10 days, the ridges are fertilized with a mixture of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium and molybdenum (60 g per 1 linear meter). Mineral substances are scattered dry in the aisles, after which the ridges are thoroughly and plentifully watered.
You can buy the formula ready-made or you can make your own. To do this, you have to mix 420 g of azofoska, 280 g of kalimag, 190 g of carbamide, 110 g of superphosphate and 2 g of molybdic and boric acid.
Pros and cons of beds according to Mittlider
Over the decades of the existence of Mittlider's theory of gardening, millions of people have tried it on their site, but most of them returned to other options after a few seasons. This is due to the fact that, despite the high yield, not everyone is able to follow the advice of the author.
First, a huge amount of mineral fertilizers can scare off supporters of natural farming. Secondly, their frequent introduction requires time and a certain pedantry - each culture needs its own mineral complexes, and everything must be calculated to the nearest gram. Thirdly, such an intensive use of fertilizers leads to an increase in the cost of the final product, and not all summer residents can afford it. And finally, the formation of narrow ridges with wide row spacings simply contradicts our mentality, when every centimeter of land should be occupied by a useful crop, and not just rest.
Beds of Lyadov
The beds of Lyadov (as the author himself admits) were the result of the processing of Mittlider's ideas. True, in the process they have changed so much that the resemblance to the "progenitor" is not striking. They will be an excellent option for those who have a damp area that is regularly heated in the spring, or an area with close groundwater.
How to make beds according to Lyadov
The width of the beds remains the same as in the previous case, but the paths between the beds narrow considerably and now reach only half a meter in width. The ridges themselves rise by 15-25 cm and are enclosed in high boxes. Of course, it is impossible to collect the required amount of soil from the passages, so plant residues, sawdust, straw, foliage are sent to the boxes. All this is watered with EM preparations (ready-made or home-made) and covered with a layer of earth from the aisles. In autumn, after harvesting, green manure is sown on the ridges and plant residues are laid again. The author of the technique proposes to sow the aisle with grass or fill it with sawdust.
Lyadov uses mainly organic fertilizers (herbal infusions, humus, manure and droppings). True, in case of a shortage of one or another mineral in plants, one should not refuse the point application of special means.
Pros and cons of beds according to Lyadov
The beds made according to the Lyadov method are perfect for damp areas, but in dry areas they will require continuous watering and pretty exhaust the owner by constantly drying out the roots of the plants. In addition, an excess of plant residues in the ridges can contribute to the development of numerous diseases, active reproduction and excellent wintering of harmful insects.
To understand whether such beds are right for you, it’s better to start with 1-2 small ones and check how the plants feel in them and whether it makes sense to put together boxes for all crops.
Rosum's beds
The ridges proposed by the Ukrainian gardener are a difficult thing to perform and not too easy to care for. They show themselves well in a fertile and sunny climate, but in central Russia or the northern regions they can fail.
How to make beds according to Rosum
Rozum's crop beds are ridges, 30 cm wide, located every 60 cm. On one side of the ridge, a groove is dug deep by a shovel bayonet, filled with plant residues, and on the other, a green manure path is sown.
As green manure grows, it is necessary to mow, plow and sow new ones. The grooves, on the other hand, need to be supplemented with fresh plant residues as soon as they begin to sag. Caring for Rosum's beds comes down to removing weeds and watering, preferably basal.
Pros and cons of beds according to Rosum
The advantages of miracle beds include, perhaps, the availability of a place for the disposal of plant and food waste, and unusual external water. But it’s worth dwelling on the minuses in more detail: the ridges require complex, painstaking care, there is little space left for the vegetables themselves, the ridges of the earth often crumble or sag.
Such a bed can become more of an experimental entertainment, but it is not recommended to transfer the entire site to the Rozum system, unless, of course, you live on the site continuously and are ready to devote all days to gardening.
The beds of Kurdyumov
Beds for the lazy - that's what they most often call - a planting option proposed by Kurdyumov. In order to make them, you will need to put together tall boxes and lay the layers inside in a special way.
How to make beds according to Kurdyumov
There are two options for ridges according to Kurdyumov - boxes and trenches. The former are good in regions with a damp or cold climate, the latter in hot, arid areas. For bed-boxes, special plank boxes are built 50 cm wide and 30 to 60 cm high, and for trench beds, respectively, they dig trenches 30-40 cm deep and 60 cm wide.
If there are no high-quality boards at hand, you can build boxes from slab, slate, galvanized metal, etc.
Large pieces of wood and branches are laid at the bottom of the trench or box, then a layer of earth, a layer of organic waste, and on top it is poured with EM preparations to activate decomposition processes. Then several (2-3) layers of organic matter are alternated with soil, watered again with EM preparations and covered with a thick (5-8 cm) layer of mulch. As a mulching material, you can use husks, mowed dried grass, agrofibre, etc.
The passages between the ridges are mowed and covered with mulch, boards, cardboard or other materials. You can also lay paving slabs or gravel between the ridges, then the garden will look even neater.
Pros and cons of beds according to Kurdyumov
Kurdyumov's beds are an excellent option that has been working for several years without "refueling". The continuous decomposition of plant residues that takes place in the lower layers of the bed warms the soil, protects plant roots from frost, saturates the soil with nutrients and attracts beneficial insects and soil bacteria. High sides protect plantings from weeds, and gardeners from working at an angle. True, such beds dry out quickly, so you need to either place them near a water source, or organize drip irrigation.
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What, already O Lito?.. Then I have a toast.
May all those who thought of this get stronger and prosper!
Chapter 6
Viviparous combs of Vladimir Rozum
Vladimir Nikitich Rozum is a resident of the Ternopil region. Its soil is light yellow loam, turning into concrete in summer. There is no chernozem even in the upper layer. Droughts are common. Little water for irrigation. So what can you grow here? Rosum grows everything. And his students, too. And the yields are excellent.
It's all about the magic beds. They are similar to the beds of Oleg Telepov, and work on a similar principle. But there are serious differences. Vladimir Nikitich wedge-shaped deepens every second path for the accumulation and decay of organic matter on a bayonet - it turns out a compost ditch 55–60 cm wide. On the sides he makes two ridge beds 30–35 cm wide. double. Such is the bed: "comb - compost - comb" (Fig. 35). Between the beds - passages of 50-60 cm, covered with living grass turf.
Rice. 35
These beds, of course, need to be dug up and filled with organic matter. But the work is the same as just digging up a garden bed. And organics refuel for a very long time: below - thick branches and poles, above - weeds and grass-leaves, and then green manure and tops (Fig. 36). Laid once, the main organic matter includes humification for many years. Literally in the second year, the soil turns black, and in the third it gives excellent yields. Of course, neither the beds nor the aisles are ever bare, and by autumn it is a continuous carpet of green manure (Fig. 37).
Rice. 36
Rice. 37
An important plus of the Rozumovsky beds is the shallowness and wedge-shaped compost moat. In such a moat, organic matter does not sour, does not wander without air - everything happens here with the help of aerobic microbes and fungi, which ensure the process of fertility. Heat from the condensation of morning moisture and from the decay of organic matter is given to the soil in the root zone - it is not lost. Moisture under the layer of compost and foliage is always there and is used without loss. Plant roots feed on both sides of the feast of worms and microbes all summer long.
Convex ridges accommodate almost double the number of plants - there is a place, there is enough light. Everything grows just like I.E. Ovsinsky: plants, feeling tightness in the roots, tend to spread out into a free place - and they have it. Everywhere there is an edge effect.
Rice. 38
Hence the new opportunities to combine landings. On fig. 38 - a piece of just one comb. How good it is for vegetables here, you can see by the beets.
Chapter 7
You can compact landings
Everything has everything.
Wisdom!
The main thing: if you already know how to grow good vegetables and are satisfied with your result, you don’t have to combine anything at all. It is hardly necessary for those who are not prone to invention: finding a good way to combine is not an easy task. You have to think, plan, keep records. In general, for an amateur.
I see a lot of value in the combination. First, you can manage to squeeze two beds into one. Harvest carrots on a narrow bed - good. But growing a trellis of cucumbers here, even with an average yield, is even better. Most Russian summer cottages are 4-6 acres. Just think about it! Secondly, plants can protect each other from pests. In a combined garden, the pest is not so comfortable. "Combined" allows you to do almost without poisons - this is very important if you are trying to turn the site into a sustainable ecosystem. Thirdly, the combination gives a more permanent and dense vegetation cover, and this is better for the soil. Finally, it's fun to experiment! In general, this is a very reasonable path, full of pleasant finds.
Successfully combining plants is much easier in theory than in practice. Here I already "broken a lot of firewood." The hardest part is figuring out when to plant what. It is necessary to ensure that the plants do not jam each other. For example, if you plant seedlings of cabbage and cucumbers at the same time, the cucumbers will hopelessly lag behind - the cabbage will crush them. Among the plants there are "sprinters" that break ahead. There are also "invaders" rapidly occupying the area. But they also behave differently in different weather and on different soils. All this can only be found out by experience.
Here is the main combination fact: you will get the most luxurious and productive plant if nothing else grows on a whole square meter! Therefore, the combination is, in fact, a compromise between the freedom of plants, the scarcity of land and our unwillingness to work hard. And only for thinking gardeners - the art of making the most of the sun and soil.
In general, cultivated plants do not tolerate very close proximity. Once in the ring of neighbors, they are greatly inhibited in growth, and the more light-loving they are, the more they lag behind. However, having burst into the light, many quickly gain strength. These are pumpkin, salads, tall tomatoes, cabbages. Cucumbers and climbing beans retain their vigor if they manage to stick out the tops of the thickets. In general, in order for all plants to receive and then give their own, it is necessary to divide between them not so much space as time.
The simplest and most reasonable thing is to combine vegetables in narrow beds, growing them in two rows. It is possible in three rows, the middle of which is a trellis. But there are good options for wide ridges. I came to the conclusion that it is much more convenient to combine rows or stripes than individual plants. It is even easier to combine "spots", plots of different vegetables the size of one to one and a half square meters. In the south, the “amphitheater” method works well. There are other observations as well. I offer them to you.
Conclusions on "square foot"
This method of placement, or rather, a way of understanding the placement of plants in a small area, was invented by the American Mel Bartholomew. His book This Extraordinary Square has been translated into many languages.
Mel proposed an extremely simple model of a combined bed - a square of 30 by 30 cm (square foot). It is very easy to place several plants of different heights on it, see the result and understand how they get along. For example, in the center there is a pepper bush, in the corners there are four carrots, and between them there are four parsley bushes.
I took a square half a meter closer to us. You can fit more here. For example, in the center - a tall tomato, a couple of cucumbers or four bean bushes on one vertical rack, the stems of which are exposed from below as quickly as possible; in the corners - four beets or four nests of three carrots; and between them along the edge of the square - three or four bushes of parsley, cilantro, cress or radish.
You can stretch the square in time. First, grow a radish from below - 30-40 bushes, in five rows, about 5 cm in a row. Then plant cucumber seedlings, sow carrots or beets. And after removing the root crops, sow radishes or lettuce again in September (Fig. 39).
Rice. 39
I tried to make a bed of 1 by 4 meters from such squares and failed: the plants that fell into the middle lagged behind and did not develop at all. The narrow bed won! Now I can say something to those who liked the idea of squares.
1. Fact: A fenced and mulched square works best when it is alone, on its own, and the area is empty. Then all plants are well developed. Conclusion: no need to combine vegetable squares into large arrays. But you can make a strip of them one square wide. The central, high row in the strip will no longer be compacted by other plants. We got a narrow bed.
2. Plants that fall on the north side of the square will be underdeveloped due to the shadow of the central, taller plant. This means that tall plants should be planted from the northern side of the square. This is already a small "amphitheater".
3. If a wide bed consists of squares, it is better to plant only the smallest vegetables and undersized flowers. Zucchini, pumpkins, chard and all cabbages, except for kohlrabi, are not suitable for compaction: they crush everyone in a row with their “burdocks”.
4. Squares with spreading plants growing for a long time should also be staggered. If a flower garden is broken into squares, it is better to turn it into a “chessboard”, the light squares of which are rugs of bent grass, stonecrops or other unpretentious cover plants.
5. A box with squares, and especially a flower bed, it is better to immediately draw beautiful light slats. It is more convenient to plant in such a “net”, and you can better see what you are doing. But most importantly - the look is elegant!
The method of squares is good for experiments and a better understanding of alignment. Suitable for winter gardens, loggias and patios. It is also very good for small rectangular wall flower beds, where mostly the most compact plants are planted. In an ordinary garden, it is hardly applicable. A strip of squares is applicable - a narrow bed.
Triangles are better
This is about how to rationally fill the area.
Our machinery can sow, plant and cultivate only at right angles. That is why the "square" landing is more familiar to us. But she is not the most rational. There are no squares in nature, but there are hexagons: they use space more rationally. In our country, agronomists Vladimir Petrovich Ushakov and Petr Matveevich Ponomarev investigated this. Biointensifiers have long compacted plantings by placing vegetables in the corners of hexagons.
Sitting in the corners of a square, a bush striving for roundness is under pressure from its neighbors on four sides. It is enough to shift the rows relative to each other by about half the interval, and the bushes are in hexagons - we saw this in Fig. 28. The space of each bush increases, the pressure of neighbors decreases, and there are fewer unoccupied gaps. In narrow beds, it is recommended to plant bulky plants - cabbages, peppers and eggplants, zucchini. And the rest of the vegetables are not harmful to plant. And seedlings. On a large area, for example for potatoes, the effect can be significant: on the same area, under the same conditions, almost 20% more plants fit. So much less space is left for weeds - also good!
It is also better to make individual rows of plants not with a line, but with an "accordion" - a two-row winding strip. If the strip of plants is open in both directions, then the accordion can be moved more, almost to right angles between the plants (as in Fig. 29). In free space (say, along the tracks), it is always more rational to plant in two lines with a shift than in one.
Vertical alignment
Doctor! Give pills for greed. Yes, more, more!!!
Theoretically, it is possible to fill not only the area, but also the maximum volume - both above the garden bed and on the sides. So much air, and in vain disappears! It's so tempting that I keep experimenting all the time.
In a narrow garden, two or three crops can be combined. On the sides, with a shift, sit cabbages, beets, carrots, Pekinka, lettuce, peppers, and bush beans. And along the central line, cucumbers, tomatoes, climbing beans, cowpea, or sweet corn grow on the trellis. Three crops in a narrow bed are better at repelling pests than two. For example, on one side of the trellis - dill, and on the other - carrots. The main thing here is not sparing, quickly remove the lower shoots and leaves of vines. Otherwise, no combination will work: the vines will crush everything on the sides.
In practice, greenery most often sprouts by self-sowing, and the bed itself becomes a colorful lettuce carpet (Fig. 40).
If the bed is elongated from north to south, trellis plants should be planted one and a half times less than usual. Light must pass freely through them, otherwise each row of low vegetables will be in the shade for half a day. If the bed is extended to the east-west, the trellis should be placed along the northern edge. And this is already an “amphitheater”.
Rice. 40
The main problem: the central trellis is thermophilic, and the side rows are often cold-resistant. Therefore, early vegetables, planted on the sides as early as March-April, often jam the climbing "southerners" planted later. And once under the canopy of a cabbage leaf or in a bush of peas, a cucumber or bean just freezes and hopelessly lags behind. Even among the tops of carrots, cucumbers sit quietly waiting for freedom. Tomatoes are a little more hardy - they still knock out, but they linger in growth.
What do we have to do? 1) First, sow "ephemeral dwarfs": radish, watercress, cilantro. Then plant seedlings of vines. And sow the side rows even later, when the central plants are already climbing onto the trellis. 2) Make sure that the side rows are as far away from the trellis as possible. In a narrow bed, this is 20-25 cm in each direction. 3) Plant high-quality potted seedlings with intact roots in the center so that they do not stand idle. 4) Thin out the side rows in time and carefully so as not to retard the plants in growth.
Conclusion: the easiest way is to combine climbing vegetables with those that can be sown all summer, or it is not recommended to sow very early because of the flowering. These are beets, radishes, bush beans, Beijing cabbage, daikon, carrots, salads, kohlrabi, turnips, peas, chard, spicy herbs.
Especially it is necessary to say about onions: as it turned out, he does not tolerate any shading neighborhood at all. But we found a neighbor for him too: after the onion has begun, we sow carrots in the aisles. Onions are soon selected for food - carrots remain. But garlic gets along well with any trellis - it is shade-tolerant, it almost does not shade itself, and it leaves early (Fig. 41).
Rice. 41
Provided that the trellis is confidently ahead of the side rows, spreading cucumbers, zucchini, squash, zucchini, broccoli, and bush tomatoes are also suitable as lower crops. Bush beans are especially good under a trellis of tomatoes. Having dodged, I managed to grow another radish between them (Fig. 42).
Rice. 42
It is very convenient to sow lateral crops already in June, when the early harvest of greenery along the edges is removed, the central vines are already without lower leaves, and the bed is essentially free. Here you can sow all the early ripening vegetables that grow normally in summer - they are listed above. It is only necessary to achieve good seedlings by frequent watering, and then mulch the soil.
The combination of longitudinal rows in a wide bed is much more difficult than in a narrow one. The main thing: no matter how the bed is located, the row spacing should not be less than 15–20 cm. For example, on a bed 120 cm wide, you can fit three rows (strips) on each side of the center line. The rows closest to the trellis are dill, basil, marjoram: they can be plucked mercilessly so as not to interfere with the extreme rows.
It is useless to plant peppers or carrots here: squeezed in the middle, they do not produce a crop. Their place is in the extreme, side rows.
Vegetable "amphitheater"
It is even more difficult to combine three crops in a wide garden. The only simple way is stepped: a) the bed is extended to the east-west, that is, it is illuminated “in the face”; b) the trellis is on the north side of the garden; c) vegetables vary greatly in height. The bed resembles a stadium stand.
The main "rule of the amphitheater": the higher, "back" rows should be ahead of the growth of the lower "front" neighbors (Fig. 43). On fig. 44 cucumbers are just sitting from the north - in a week they will crawl out onto the trellis. First, seedlings are planted for the trellis - the "balcony". When she went to growth, the average culture is planted or sown - the "amphitheater". The last, ten days later, "parterre" is sown. Radishes, watercress or coriander just ripened in its place - they are removed.
As medium crops for the amphitheater, only peppers (sweet and bitter), eggplants, bush tomatoes on stakes and herbs: basil, catnip, dill are suitable. They are planted when cucumbers or beans grow a curly stalk. Tomatoes planted with beans are first choked. Peppers don't choke. Vigna and some varieties of curly beans are so thermophilic that they begin to grow only in the heat of June, although they sprout along with bush beans. Tomatoes and cabbages grow more powerfully and earlier than all.
It is better to separate the rows of vegetables in the amphitheater from each other by 30–40 cm. A high, back row is along the very edge: there is no need to leave room for weeds. After 30-40 cm - the middle row. Further, after 20 cm, there may be rows of carrots, beets. Bush beans can only grow from the edge - its bushes require a lot of free space and always fall apart on the path. The bow is also on the edge, it needs light.
Rice. 43
Rice. 44
The harvest of the "amphitheater" is definitely no more than with a monoculture. And yet it is quite a productive garden bed. Besides, it's beautiful. Best of all, the "amphitheater" looks near the house. The semicircle, open to the south, framed by tiles, is very beautiful.
The simplest - stains!
In fact, planting all the beds, of course, does not have enough patience. And all the methods mentioned are applied on a case-by-case basis, as the land is liberated from earlier crops. I want something simpler: I wave my hand once or twice - and so that everything is in the right places!
The closest thing to this simplicity is sowing with “spots” in wide boxes. This applies to "little things": greens and salads, root crops, onions, bush beans. The bed is sown with compartments with transverse rows, as in fig. 45. A meter of radishes, half a meter of lettuce - and something else can be sown in the vacant places. Ten rows of beets, ten rows of carrots, six rows of onions, three rows of parsley - and very simple, and colorful enough for pests. You just need to make sure that one does not crush the other: leave space on the border of the "spots" and use the edges of the beds more. In this mode, perennials along the edges of the beds get along well.
Rice. 45
A very simple combination
“He waved his hand”, like Vasilisa the Wise in a fairy tale - the dream of a lazy person! And I made it happen. There are very few weeds on compost beds, but I agree to weed thoroughly once. In the spring, at the end of March, I cut the bed with a rake and cover it with a film. After a week or two, I cut off the carpet of young weeds with a flat cutter. After a couple of days, I take the seeds of radishes, cress, cilantro and lettuce - and just scatter them around the garden as I have to. I close up with a rake, spill, cover with a film. After a couple of weeks, I sit down on the plank, slowly weeding and tearing through all that is superfluous. It remains to regularly choose young greens for the table - primarily from the central strip, where cucumbers or tomatoes are soon planted.
Do they want to live together?
Relatives are unrelated people who periodically gather to be counted and have a tasty meal on the occasion of a change in their number.
A. Knyshev
The more diverse the community, the more stable it is. It is difficult for pests to work in a diverse environment: it is more difficult to find their plant, there are many unpleasant and frightening odors, and there are many enemies. However, the plants themselves strongly influence each other: shade, produce aggressive volatile substances and root secretions.
Let us recall the experiments of L. Moser. He clearly showed that some plants stimulate the growth of grapes, while others suppress it, regardless of their size and with a guaranteed excess of nutrition and water. It is a proven fact that plants actively communicate chemically and by means of electromagnetic signals. There is even a science about this - allelopathy. However, it contains such a mass of data, moreover, often contradictory, that it is difficult to apply anything in practice. I tried to collect the data available to me in one bag, shook it a little and squeezed it. Here's what happened as a result.
1. Do not get along together: a) plants of the same height and lopiness, if planted very closely; b) representatives of the same family, that is, relatives. This is natural: you want the same thing, and similar things are thrown out. It’s the same with us: often relatives are the worst friends. Umbrellas quarrel especially strongly with each other: dill, parsley, celery, parsnip, lovage, cilantro. Only carrots are very loyal.
2. Oppress all, without exception, fennel and wormwood.
3. Onions and garlic are aggressive towards legumes and cabbage.
4. Carrots, beets, cucumbers, tomatoes - basically everything makes no difference.
5. Lettuce and spinach release substances that activate the roots of other plants and shade the soil. General helpers and breadwinners!
6. Protect everyone from pests: beans, parsley and herbs from the labiate family: lemon balm, basil, savory, thyme, catnip, hyssop, marjoram. As well as spicy flowers decorating the garden: calendula, nasturtium, marigolds, chrysanthemums, zinnia, kosmeya. Onions and garlic curb fungal diseases.
7. Corn, Jerusalem artichoke, sorghum and millet shade everyone, protect from the wind and create a good microclimate. Sunflower, on the contrary, can be aggressive towards many vegetables, and it is better to move it to the edges of the garden.
T. Yu. Ugarova cites some couples that help each other well to resist pests. These cultures can be placed in adjacent rows. Carrots and onions protect each other from carrot and onion flies. Celery repels whites from various cabbages. It is planted between cabbages, and it grows after the cabbage is removed. Spread cucumbers and dill get along great in one place - provided that there is not so much dill. Basil and tomatoes work well together. Not bad coexist in the same row kohlrabi and lettuce: the latter is removed earlier than kohlrabi. Cucumbers weaving on corn or sunflowers feel great and bear fruit until cold weather. Beans on poles get along well next to low cucumbers and tomatoes. It is good to sow radishes where zucchini, zucchini and other late vegetables will be later. But this is a matter of timing.
Using various methods of preparing organic beds on my site, this year I made another discovery for myself - Bed Rozum and was pleasantly surprised by the result. After reviewing several webinars in the winter B.A. Bagel on this topic, I got a burning desire to create such a bed at home, taking into account all the features of my site (loam soil, lack of opportunity for additional irrigation - the source of water is exclusively snow and rain) and the presence of a sufficient amount of plant residues, including a sawn old willow since last year. That is, you won’t need to go anywhere and, even, you won’t need to carry anything with a wheelbarrow - everything is at hand.
So, what is the essence and difference of such a bed from the usual or even familiar and beloved by all of us " warm beds»?
Firstly, it can be done right in the spring, just before sowing.
Secondly, to create it, no additional structures in the form of boxes or other frames are needed.
And thirdly: there is no extra labor for digging and digging a deep ditch with throwing the soil back and forth to “bury” the laid organic matter, as in warm garden. All organic matter lies on the surface with access to oxygen on the principle of forest litter and begins to decompose immediately into biologically active substances with the release of carbon dioxide, directly giving nutrition to plants during their growth, without rotting and unnecessary burning-overheating with emissions of harmful gases.
Almost the entire area beds of V. Rozum it is constantly covered with a "blanket" that traps underground dew and the heat released during its condensation. Even during the heat and drought this summer, it was humid and cool there and the plants did not retard their growth, unlike the control plot, where I did not specifically put organic matter in order to check and compare the effect Rosum's beds with normal conditions on the usual beds.
How I made the Rose Garden.
So to speak, for the "purity of the experiment", I chose an uncultivated area, almost turf, the vegetation of which was mainly burdock, dandelions, timothy grass, couch grass, calendula and annual seedlings of cow parsnip. By May 20, everything turned green and grew together. She mowed, raked to the side and outlined the dimensions of the future beds 1.2m (30cm + 60cm + 30cm) X 4m.
Further, in no case is digging and no shovel !!! We take our favorite hoe reinforced, approximately deepening cm by 4, we chop off pieces of turf, shake off our little land with worms from it, and put the remaining “washcloths” to the side. By the way, this bunch of roots was immediately transferred to a neighboring garden bed, where seedlings of zucchini and cucumbers were planted and grew right into the turf, still under cut 5-liter bottles.
So, processed the entire area hoe(burdocks and cow parsnip were simply chopped off - the plants are biennial, they will not grow back, the remaining roots rot right in the garden, do not germinate). Further, along the width of the future ridges, rabbit droppings with sawdust were scattered, approximately 2 buckets per 4 pog. meters. spilled Radiance-3 and I carefully removed the upper most fertile layer of the aisle with a pick-up shovel and laid it without turning (!) onto a layer of litter, forming ridges.
Tyapkoy formed a V-shaped ditch. The preparation of the beds is ready, it remains only to fill the moat with organic matter. And here is the most interesting! A layer of woody organic matter is laid at the bottom - branches up to 2 cm in diameter with leaves (in my case they were dry after winter), then hay-straw and a layer of fresh green mass. All this was layered with EM preparation Radiance-3.
What does it give? - providing air to plant roots and beneficial aerobic microorganisms, i.e. fresh organics from above do not cake, do not block the access of air, and bacteria work in the entire layer equally and quickly, providing nutrition to our plants.
In "classic" Rosum's bed 3 crops are sown on the borovka: Beets + onions + carrots. I, as a longtime fan and experimenter of mixed plantings and intermediate crops, decided to leave this scheme and supplement it. In the very edge of the boletus, beets were sown with grooves on one side (intentionally thickened - after 5 cm), on the other - carrots. Middle - onion - sevok + dill. Radishes were sown between onions and beets and onions and carrots (it didn’t interfere with anything - at the moment when the beets and carrots had 1-2 true leaves, the radish was already harvested). In addition, seedlings were planted in the garden: basil, undersized marigolds, strawberry seedlings (and even gave a harvest) and Savoy cabbage on the ends.
Sprayed 3 times during the summer biococktail. There were practically no weeds. I tried to mulch, but because of the density of plantings, there was simply nowhere ... the whole area was occupied.
According to the results: The harvest of radishes, dill has already been harvested (just a record: both greens (and dried, and in blanks), basil: all summer - leaves from the palm of your hand and continues to grow, cabbage - leaves for cabbage rolls and green borscht, berries from large-fruited strawberries - and the new whiskers take root beautifully among beets and carrots.
Onion harvest - not very large, but sweet salad - a bucket. Marigolds bloom beautifully! And this is only an intermediate "harvest - the main one is still in the garden, but the fact that I already see beets in August of quite an impressive size pleases me and makes me draw conclusions.
I have used mulching with mowed grass on my site before and the effect pleased me - I saw the result: it is always wet under the mulch, weeds do not grow, my plants are comfortable, neither cold nor heat are afraid. One good shelter was enough from the beginning of summer until the fall.
But what I discovered this season, using EM technology and EM drugs for the first time, just shocked and inspired me. Laid first time organics on Rosum's bed with the drug Radiance-3 it lasted for two weeks - it just melted before our eyes - the wooden skeleton of the first layer was already visible. I had to report it constantly - but the volume is not small .... But, isn’t it a joy when everything you give this season right away works for the harvest and increases the fertility and humus content in your soil!
Natalya Valerievna Shtypulyak "Fertility", Yaroslavl