Watermelons. Watermelon is a good companion to potatoes, oat root. Corn and peas improve the growth and flavor of watermelons. Promote the growth of watermelons thistle and Mary.

Eggplant. Helps eggplants grow healthier (small amounts, of course). Beans ward off the Colorado potato beetle. The space between the eggplants (quite large) can be successfully used for salad. It is helpful to surround the eggplant with basil. Tarragon and thyme can help in the fight against the flea (in extreme cases, infusions).

Schiritsa (amaranth)

Okra. Okra is a strong, tall plant, with a fibrous stem (okra is one of the types of jute), and okra bushes can be left in the garden in winter, and peas can be planted in the finished trellis in spring. It is good to plant peppers, eggplants, melons, cucumbers with okra.

Peas.Peas are a great companion for almost all vegetables (potatoes, tomatoes, carrots, turnips, radishes, cucumbers, corn, beans) and aromatic herbs. The exception is all sorts of bows and gladioli. Cabbage plants prevent pea root rot. Lettuce, spinach, cucumbers and even eggplants grow well in the shade of peas.

Peas in potatoes are especially good. It scares off not only the Colorado potato beetle, but also the wireworm. Dried pea stalks should not be pulled out of the ground - the soil will be more structured.

Melons. Potatoes inhibit the growth of melons and can cause them to wilt. The close proximity of cucumbers is harmful to melons - they can become mutually dusty, and both will become bitter. Help melons to grow radishes and marsh.

Cabbage. Although different types of cabbage (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi) grow and develop differently, their problems and their behavior in phytocenoses are similar.

Cabbage butterflies are driven off celery, thyme, hyssop, wormwood from cabbages. Useful for cabbage is the neighborhood of aromatic herbs (dill, chamomile, mint, sage), onions of various types (turnip, shallot, batun, chayvis, leek), beans. Cabbage is compatible with potatoes. This is some kind of mysticism, explained only by allelopathy (this time - "good"): such a tight, tasty and clean cabbage, as planted between the rows of potatoes after hilling, simply did not have to be seen.

Strawberries and tomatoes are not to their liking. She herself oppresses the grapes. Cauliflower "does not like" the neighborhood of cucumbers and beets, as well as tall plants shading it.

Potato. Many plants can make a useful company for potatoes: beans, beets, corn, lettuce, radish, coriander, nasturtium, flax, tansy, catnip, horseradish, and ass. But the potato has an affectionate "companion" - the Colorado potato beetle. Therefore, we will single out among the possible neighbors those who can help the potato in this trouble.

Well protects potatoes from the Colorado horseradish beetle. But horseradish is extremely invasive - its roots are capable of stretching many meters in depth and in breadth, and it can grow from any piece of the root. There is no such organization of joint planting of potatoes and horseradish, which would save the garden from horseradish clogging.

Horseradish ordinary

The Colorado potato beetle does not like the smell of tansy and catnip. Against the beetle, you can successfully use infusions of tansy and catnip. The catnip infusion contains the poison nepetactone, which is harmful to the larvae. The infusion of delphinium has the same property.

Common tansy

Catnip

Legumes provide some protection from the beetle. Seeds of peas and beans (and even heat-loving beans) can simply be thrown into the hole when planting potatoes and then, as it were, forget about them.

Coriander, nasturtium, flax scare off the beetle (unfortunately, slightly). They can be sown at random, but it is still better from the south side of the row: they will cover the soil near the potato bushes and protect the roots from unwanted overheating. The beetle and marigolds are unpleasant, but they are allelopathic enough to be good company to potatoes. Since the beetle detects potatoes by smell, basil can be confusing.

Trap plants can be used to combat the beetle. If there are extra seedlings, you can plant eggplants on potatoes - rarely, after 20 bushes. YetDatura and Belladonna (belladonna) are more graceful in this role. Female beetles lay their eggs on these nightshades, and the larvae literally find themselves in a trap: the leaves are deadly poisonous for them, and they cannot change the plant, and they do not want to. True, the creation of these traps is a rather troublesome task: prepare seeds, sow them at the right time and in the right place (or even better, grow seedlings), and then protect yourself from self-seeding.

Datura ordinary

Belladonna ordinary

If the garden is not flooded with pesticides, then birds - titmouses, finches, robins, blackbirds, nuthatches, orioles - can provide significant assistance in the fight against the beetle.

Effective in the fight against the beetle, an infusion of walnut leaves is available (and recommended by many benefits). But the poison juglone contained in them is very persistent, unlike the nepetactone or curariform poison of the delphinium. Of course, if we “live alone”, then we can water the garden with juglone. But then it is even "better" to sprinkle with DDT.

Another grave attack for potatoes - late blight ... A plant that can help potatoes fight late blight is garlic. Not only by itself, as a neighbor, but also as a source of raw materials for infusion.

Some plants, on the contrary, help late blight. The ability of potatoes to resist disease is weakened by raspberries growing in the neighborhood and, naturally, tomatoes. Sunflower, pumpkin, zucchini and cucumbers can be home to late blight, although they themselves do not suffer from it.

Potatoes promote the growth of cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, onions. Apple trees and potatoes have a bad effect on each other: ripening apples inhibit the growth of potatoes, and that (in revenge, or what?) Prevents the absorption of phosphorus and nitrogen by apple trees.

Poor in the neighborhood with potatoes, turnips and pumpkin.

Corn. It grows well with potatoes. And beans simply feed corn - a strong eater - with nitrogen. The thinned shadow cast by corn is favorable for watermelons, pumpkins, and cucumbers.

Onion. Onions are good in a company with different types of cabbage.

He also loves strawberries, tomatoes, lettuce, savory and (in small quantities) chamomile and petunias. Perennial bows (batun, chayvis) are good in circles near roses.

Onions are especially useful for carrots and potatoes. Brilliant company - borage, thistle, nettle.

Bad - peas, sage, beans, gladioli. Onions do not like borers.

Carrot. Onions of all kinds, garlic, oat root, badly - dill and anise coexist well with carrots. Flowering (seed) carrots attract beneficial insects.

No need to plant carrots near the apple tree - both carrots and apples will taste bitter!

Oat root. Oat root repels onion flies, so its seeds can be mixed with carrot seeds (also repelling onion flies) and sown interspersed with onion flies.

Cucumbers. Cucumbers work very well with corn. Corn protects cucumbers from bacterial wilting, and together they drive the ants away.

The proximity of beans, peas, radishes, kohlrabi, cabbage, lettuce, celery, cauliflower, sunflower has a beneficial effect on cucumbers. You can sow a few radish seeds around a cucumber hole and forget about it. Let it grow and blossom, let it scare away harmful insects (cucumber beetle, for example), attract useful ones.

Some weeds add energy to cucumbers: quinoa, Mary, sow thistle, tansy. The neighborhood of tall plants that give a light shade is useful for cucumbers. Schiritsa sacrificially lures caterpillars gnawing at the roots.

Parsnip. An infusion of parsnip leaves and roots is an excellent spray against many insects. It is both a repellant and an insecticide (it can not only repel, but also kill insects). The parsnip itself has almost no problems with pests and diseases.

Parsnips are frost-hardy and can overwinter in the soil. Blooming (in the second year) parsnips are attractive to beneficial insects. It is a good companion for radishes. Peas and other legumes help it grow.

Pepper. Pepper is good with basil - they do each other a mutual favor.

Pepper gets along well with okra, which shelters the fragile stems of pepper from the wind, and the fruits from the sun.

Onions, tansy, coriander, catnip, marigolds can ward off aphids from pepper. You can use nasturtium as a trap.

It is advisable to avoid being near beans, which, like peppers, are affected by anthracnose (black soft spots appear on the fruits).

Tomatoes. When creating companies with tomatoes, one must keep in mind both potato (and tomato too) enemies: the Colorado potato beetle and late blight. The beetle, however, is not so scary. He rarely attacks tomatoes, in case of obvious provocation. To do this, for example, you need to plant tomatoes next to the potatoes - then the beetle will easily move from the drying potato tops to the tomatoes. Or you just need to be unlucky and during the drying of the potato tops, a steady wind blew from the tomatoes on the potato beds.

With late blight it is worse. When ideal conditions are created for the epiphytic of late blight, it inevitably comes. Of course, something can be achieved with prevention, such as blown bottom and mulch. But more often you have to resort to oprahskivaniyam - garlic infusion or biological products (phytosporin, EM-5, Radiance, etc.)

Let's return, however, to tomatoes. They are compatible with carrots, parsley, onions, garlic, chayvis, borage and many flowers, in particular with space. Garlic protects tomatoes from spider mites. Basil improves the growth and taste of tomatoes, increases their resistance to diseases, and repels the horned worm. Stinging and dull nettles improve the taste and growth of tomatoes (you can make an infusion of nettle tops for feeding tomatoes). In small quantities, the squid is useful.

Tomato leaves contain solanine, and the infusion of the leaves can be used to protect roses and gooseberries from black spot.

The root secretions of tomatoes are harmful to apricots. Do not plant corn and tomatoes nearby.

Beet. Beets grow well with onions, carrots, lettuce, radishes and any cabbage except cauliflower. She is not harmed by some shading that, for example, Brussels sprouts can give. Curly beans and mustard are unpleasant to beets as neighbors.

Spraying beets with mint or catnip infusions can remove fleas. Flea, however, does only "cosmetic" damage to beets. Worse with aphids. If aphid colonies appear on the beets, they can cause significant damage to it. Mint and catnip infusions are suitable against aphids, but a decoction of rhubarb leaves or garlic infusion is more effective. Beetroot growing next to Brussels sprouts, adored by aphids most of all vegetables, should be especially carefully looked after. By the way, some birds like aphids - sparrows, titmouses, finches, nuthatches.

Especially valuable for creating melange beet varieties with a short growing season. Such beets can be sown in the summer in the vacated areas. Since the summer beets increase the root crop in the autumn months, at a lower temperatureture, it is softer and sweeter than the one sown in spring. And such beets are stored better.

Celery. Celery grows well with leeks, tomatoes, cabbage, bush beans. Earthworms like to gather in celery roots: to encourage them, you can sow celery in a circle, creating a semblance of a house for the worms.

Celery loves shade. In it, it grows more fragrant.

Soy. Like all legumes, soybeans loosen and enrich the soil. Suppresses weeds. Grows well with many plants, in particular wheat.

Corn benefits greatly from the soybean company. Soybeans scare away turtle bugs from corn. Volatiles released from soybean leaves stimulate the absorption of phosphorus in corn. And with the help of nodule bacteria, soybeans feed the corn with nitrogen.

Pumpkin. Pumpkin grows well with corn. Helps the pumpkin fight inradishes planted around the hole. Nasturtium is also good in this role. Promote better growth of Mary, quinoa, sow thistle (naturally, not in exhausting quantities).

Beans. The beans are good with a little celery. It grows remarkably with cucumbers, intertwining with them for mutual pleasure. Beans in strawberries are useful. She helps corn, pumpkin. A company with radishes is mutually beneficial. Like peas, beans growing with potatoes ward off the Colorado potato beetle and wireworm. By the way, 2-3 rows of beans, planted around the perimeter of the garden, protect it from the wireworm if there are abandoned and overgrown with weeds nearby.

Beans help grow carrots. Beans and savory make a wonderful pair. Both taste improves, pests do not find their way to them.

Curly beans are bad with beets, kohlrabi, sunflower. All bows and gladioli oppress beans.

Garlic. Garlic is unusually good in a company garden. It scares away slugs, all kinds of caterpillars, even moles.

An excellent universal infusion is obtained from garlic, effective in the fight against aphids, spider mites, late blight. It saves cucumbers, radishes, spinach, beans from some fungal diseases. The hostess's garlic cloves have long been placed in grain, flour, and cereals.

It is good to surround fruit trees with garlic, protecting them from borers, and roses, protecting them from black spot. Garlic grows superbly in company with many plants (even with a very allelopathic vetch!). An irreplaceable neighbor for strawberries, which suffer more from slugs. And only peas and beans with garlic are bad - it inhibits their growth.

Based on the book by B.A. Bagel "Melange vegetable garden"

Joint landingsvegetable, berry, green and ornamental crops on country beds x is not know-how, not innovation, but technologies applied over many centuries of traditional cultivation of vegetable crops. Examples of joint planting of vegetables in the bedswere known to both the American Indians and the ancient Slavs. Modern agricultural technicians study the interaction of different crops within a particular industry -plant allelopathy. We are talking about the beneficial or oppressive mutual influence of various plants planted in the neighborhood. For small summer cottages themeco-cultivationof various vegetables and herbs is especially relevant, since the use of such a planting method will make it possible to use the available area more economically in quantitative terms and more efficiently in quality.

Why is it important to correctly combine vegetables in the beds

To get the maximum yield in the smallest area, using the technology of combined beds, it is necessary to understand the basics of crop rotation, since even an incorrect alternation of crops planted on the same piece of land in different years can both improve the result and nullify all efforts gardener. Since the gardener is primarily interested in the yield and health of plantings, the right choice neighbor and on the bed allows you to solve both problems.

Comprehending the Secrets of Combined Cultivation vegetable x, green and decorative cultures you can achieve not only a rich healthy harvest, but also combine the useful with the beautiful: the garden bed can become a decoration of the garden, turning into a flower bed. When choosing neighboring crops, the following factors must be considered: Plants with similar maintenance conditions and care requirements are planted on the same bed: illumination, moisture, acidity and soil structure, regime and composition of fertilizing. If most of the parameters of the culture coincide, then the nuances can be taken into account by correctly drawing up a diagramjoint landing: plant a more moisture-loving plant in the center of the garden bed, where the soil moisture level is higher than at the edge. The same applies to size: the tallest specimens from the set of crops require planting in the center, the shortest ones - with a border, then there will be enough sunlight for everyone.

Compliance with crop rotation is an indispensable condition. Related cultures belonging to the same family should not follow friend after another from season to season, since they draw out the nutrients necessary for these plants from the soil (which means that the next season the "relative" will already be deprived of soil fertility) and during the season pathogenic microorganisms accumulate that harm this particular family (which means , "Relative" is initially susceptible to "family" disease). It is necessary to plant plants with a powerful deep root system and short surface roots on the same bed side by side so that these crops coexist and alternate: deep-shallow-deep. With such a planting, the roots of neighbors will not compete for underground space, each developing in its own direction.

Joint landingdifferent crops is possible not only within the spatial framework, when plants are simultaneously planted and ripen in parallel.

Joint planting within temporary boundaries allows you to harvest some vegetables, freeing up space for emerging and starting development of later neighbors.

A good example such a conveyor principlecombined planting in the garden, the width of which is 1 m, and the row spacing is 10 cm: Landing: lettuce (leaf) and radish in one row - alternating every 10 cm; the next row: watercress, kohlrabi cabbage alternates in a row with a head salad, spinach is planted in three rows in a row, an early variety of potatoes, a couple more rows of spinach. Total 9 to ultur. Harvesting: spinach and watercress are harvested first (cut the leaves and leave the roots); as they ripen, they pull out the radish and after one remove the lettuce; later, after harvesting the head lettuce, kohlrabi and potatoes remain until fully ripe.

Example of vertical combining compatible plants on the same bed: The bed is located in the east-west direction. Along the northern border along the entire length, a trellis support is installed for tying up a climbing crop - beans. Rows: beans, after 0.2 m - undersized tomatoes, after 0.2 m - carrots, after 0.2 m - onions, along the edge - fragrant spice (for example, basil) or marigolds to protect against insects. Carrots, onions and beans are planted first, a little later, when the beans catch on the trellis, tomato seedlings are planted. Harvesting in this combination is almost simultaneous for all vegetable neighbors.

The advantages of mixed plantings

The advantages of planting vegetables, herbs and ornamental crops in common beds, taking into account their compatibility, include not only space savings, although this is the reason that often pushes gardeners to mixed cultivation.

Competently using the features of certain plants, you can protect plantings from the attack of insect pests: marigolds, oregano, mint, spicy herbs drive away insects, protecting their neighbors in the garden. Onions and garlic can also be a reliable barrier. If nasturtium is planted next to vegetables, the aphids will prefer ornamental culture without reaching the vegetables. The scent of rosemary will ward off bean lovers, while thyme will help the cabbage withstand insect attacks. As a result, the summer resident will have a harvest of vegetables and fragrant tea additives in the fall. Many cultures are not easy being friends t, and show a beneficial effect on the development of each other: tall sun-loving sunflowers and corn perfectly coexist, since their roots develop at different depths, and create the necessary shade for low plants that prefer light shading: chard, spinach.

Early spinach greens will provide soil moisture and inhibit weed growth while beets and beans, potatoes or tomatoes sprout in the same area. And when the time comes to cut the spinach leaves, roots useful for the soil will remain in the ground, helping neighbors to get food from the soil. These and others examples of joint planting of vegetables in the gardendemonstrate the benefits of growing different crops in a common area if you know that with what and why he is friends, what can be planted next to in the same common bed ... It is equally important to consider which of the plants do not tolerate each other.

What are compatible with

Cabbage

Cabbage crops usually suffer from pests, therefore, onions, garlic are planted to protect against voracious caterpillars, and the aroma of mint, sage, rosemary and Bogorodskaya grass will help from butterflies. Snails do not like cucumber grass, earthen fleas avoid celery planting.

In addition to defenders, cabbage there are just friendly vegetables-neighbors: potatoes, salads, cucumbers, beets.

Neighbors do not recommend carrots for cabbage (although with broccoli perhaps), beans, grapes, strawberries, tomatoes are planted away from cabbage.

Tomatoes

It is noticed that basil is not easy best neighbor for tomatoes , it makes the taste of vegetables richer. Combines harmoniously with pest-fighting garlic, leafy greens, radishes and radishes, beans, carrots, onions and beets. Developing well tomatoes next to peppers , even in closed ground - in a greenhouse or greenhouse. Dill and it is better to plant potatoes further away, but nettle - a malicious weed - is very useful for improving the taste of tomatoes.

Cucumbers

There is an experience when cucumbers are planted with corn, which helps to cope with ants, becomes an additional support for tenacious cucumbers, corn leaves cover a neighbor from the sultry sun.

Radishes and radishes repel beetles and improve the taste of the fruit. Can sit next to onion with garlic. Compatibility of related plants - cucumbers and zucchini - not bad an example of co-cultivation on the same bed... Spinach, beans with beans, dill, celery and even beets - good ones neighbors in cucumber beds. Compatibility vegetable crops and weedsplants in the gardenmanifests itself in a combination of cucumbers and tansy, squid, quinoa. These weeds help the crop resist pests.

Cucumbers and tomatoes do not grow nearby, especially in greenhouses and hotbeds - they have too different conditions for keeping. Potatoes and spices are also planted away from each other.

Pumpkin

Some gardeners believe that a pumpkin cannot be found in a favorable neighborhood. They definitely do not plant a pumpkin next to zucchini - this is fraught with over-pollination, with potatoes, peppers and eggplants and legumes. Joint landings are possible with radish and nasturtium - these crops have a protective function.

Carrot

The best neighbor for carrots - onions, but perennial onions. The fact is that onions and carrots have a fundamental difference in watering needs: either the onion will rot, or the carrot will not be born. Garlic, spinach, radish, lettuce are the most popularexamples of beds with joint plantings carrots.

Dill from carrot beds is ripped out mercilessly: these plants, competitors for moisture and nutrition, have the same diseases. Carrots and parsley , not the best neighbor and celery.

Potato

When planting potatoes, many experienced gardeners throw a bean into the hole - the crop's best partner for a more bountiful harvest. Potatoes have many useful garden companions: beans, coriander, marigolds with nasturtium or tansy protect against the main pest - the Colorado potato beetle. Garlic, planted in row spacing, helps to cope with late blight.

Potatoes are friends with radishes, salads, cabbage, eggplant, horseradish (if you control its distribution), calendula, corn.

But quinoa inhibits the growth of potatoes, for the same reason, beets are not planted nearby. Raspberries and tomatoes can provoke late blight. Zucchini, cucumbers, sorrel are examples of crop incompatibility

Beet

Having identified neighbors to beets mint or catnip, the gardener relieves himself of the fight against aphids and fleas, the main pests of the vegetable. Proven neighbors for root crops are cabbage (white cabbage), carrots, onions, celery, carrots, strawberries are also suitable. But for a mutually beneficial neighborhood, all plants must be provided with a place - the plantings must not be thickened.

Beet antagonists - potatoes, beans. Not recommended near plant mustard.

Bell pepper

Basil is not just a neighbor. It is an active helper for Bulgarian peppers , it promotes better plant growth and development. Onions are good for peppers, and beets are just a good neighbor. Not grown next to the pepper are carrots, peas, beans.

Onion

Perennial onions and carrots are an almost perfect example.plant compatibility in the garden... And onions grown for the sake of a bulb are incompatible with carrots, since a moisture-loving carrot will ruin a neighbor or an onion crop will leave a gardener without carrots, because they have different demands on the moisture content of the substrate.

Comfortable onions on the same bed with tomatoes, green crops, beets, strawberries. But not with sage, radishes, beans, legumes, grapes, gladioli.

Garlic

Garlic is prized by gardeners for its beneficial nutritional qualities and for the vegetable's contribution to pest control: it protects plantings from insects, caterpillars, slugs and even moles if you plant a large area with garlic. Garlic is friends with radishes, salads, celery, strawberries, carrots. It protects potato plantings from late blight, and decorative ones - gladioli and roses - from aphids.

Among the enemies of garlic are legumes.

Eggplant

Eggplant with beans - an ideal alliance in the fight against the Colorado potato beetle. Creeping thyme protects the eggplant from flea beetles. Come into one schema planting with eggplants, turnips, peppers, herbs. Incompatible with cucumbers, cabbage.

Other vegetables

Radish grow well next to carrots, cabbage, turnips, beans, salads, tomatoes, beans. And onions, cucumbers, beets are not suitable for general planting with radishes.

Turnip can grow with peas, but does not develop surrounded by asparagus, next to mustard.

Salads are used in various combined beds. And spinach is recommended for mandatory planting: agricultural technicians celebrate it compatibility with any plants in the gardenand benefit in the enrichment of the dacha land.

Unfavorable neighborhood

The list of plants that do not get along in the close company of other crops is small. The leader of this list is fennel, which requires individual planting.

Most often, incompatibility is explained by the family ties of cultures (dill, coriander, parsley, the umbrella family, compete and suffer from the same diseases).

When planning a general planting scheme, take into account the size of an adult plant, the features of the root system, the need for free space on a piece of land. If we neglect these factors, then even a favorable neighborhood in theory will bring only problems in practice.

By studying the peculiarities of the influence of plants on each other, the gardener increases the efficiency of his work. The summer resident transforms the appearance of the site every year, because knowledge of the basics of allelopathy of garden and horticultural crops allows you to create unique flower beds that give a rich harvest and give beauty and joy.

Combined sowing of garden crops. List of vegetables that can be compacted. Sealing plants The correct combination of several garden crops in compacted plantings in a garden bed so that for each of them there is a certain benefit is a real art. Therefore, with the correct selection of plants, the garden will bloom and bear fruit, like a living organism. What are compacted landings? Everything is simple here. This is when, according to the main crop, we plant a compacting crop (as a rule, between the rows of the main crop) Why do compacted plantings in the garden? The advantages are as follows: Saving space on the land. Increasing the duration of land use during the season, i. E. more efficient use of it. In some cases, the plants help each other grow. There is probably only one drawback. It becomes more difficult to cultivate the soil between rows, in particular, to loosen. What is compacted with what Most often, carrots, parsley, cucumbers, onions andparsnip When choosing a sealant, one must take into account the need to grow a particular plant, the characteristics of the variety and the conditions for its cultivation. Late cabbage usually compacted with onions, tomatoes, beans, cauliflower. Good for yields combination of carrots, beets, chicory with onions and cucumbers... In the first half of the growing season, onions develop very quickly, and roots, on the contrary, slowly. Root crops begin to grow actively when the onion is already without leaves and begins to "prepare" for the fact that the harvest will be soon. As seals for cucumber tomatoes, cabbage, or tall-stemmed fruits can be used. Another type of seal is often used, which consists of in joint sowing or planting of several varieties of the same crop. As a rule, late and early ripening varieties are most often combined. Corn can be compacted with zucchini, beans, pumpkin... In this case, the corn stalks serve as a kind of support for such compactors, and thanks to the beans, the accumulation of nitrogen begins in the soil. Potatoes can be hardened with late cabbage... If you plan to dig up the potatoes young, then you can compact and medium cabbage. Garlic - Bulgarian, bitter pepper, low varieties of eggplant. In this case, the distance between the rows of garlic should be slightly more than usual. The garlic is harvested in the summer, while the peppers and eggplants continue to bear fruit until the cold weather. Onions can be hardened with the same vegetable crops. You should pay attention to spinach. It is a good compactor for many garden crops. Spinach is compacted white cabbage, squash, zucchini, carrots, beets, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, potatoes, garlic. They even sow spinach over spinach at different planting dates. One is being removed, the other is still growing. Radish compact white cabbage. Cucumbers are compacted carrots, beets, parsnips, garlic. Gourd canteen early cabbage and early potatoes are compacted. The same can be said about watermelon. As you can see, there are many options and schemes for combined landings, for every taste. You can actually choose something for yourself. Features and subtleties of compacted crops As for the plant density of the compacted crop, which is considered the main one in this case, it is almost the same as in the case without compaction. However, at the same time, the seeding rate of the compactor should be chosen such that during the formation of the crop it would not oppress the main crop. In addition, often combined crops are sown in the same rows. This is how onions, potatoes, cabbage, etc. are grown. True, sometimes the seeding rate is increased, which is associated with the alleged breakthrough for obtaining beam production of carrots, beets, etc. Meanwhile, planting crops with a combination must be used very carefully so that, God forbid, the plants do not begin to harm each other. For plants need both light and heat and water. It follows from this that in the case of mixing, each plant must know "its place". Those. one plant will be the main plant, and the other auxiliary, the task of which will be to create a favorable environment for the development of the main plant. And then - the requirements of different plants for light and the amount of water consumed are also different. Therefore, the main plants should grow in the very center of the beds, and the auxiliary plants should grow along the edges or in the aisles. I will also add that compacted planting is a method of growing vegetables proven by popular experience. Scientists recommend it too. In my garden, I actually used some compacted planting schemes. Everything grows beautifully. What I wish for you too!

Eggplant.

Beans.

The most favorable relationship, which can be described as mutual assistance, exists between beans and cucumbers, so it is recommended to plant beans around the cucumber beds. They go well with sweet corn, potatoes, radishes. radish, spinach, mustard. The inclusion of beans in the planting of these crops improves their nitrogen nutrition. Scented basil, planted next to the beans, reduces damage by the bean caryopsis. Other useful herbs for beans include borage, lavender, oregano, rosemary, and yarrow. Planting beans with onions, leeks, chives, and garlic is not recommended. The neighborhood of marigolds and wormwood is bad for beans.

Grape.

In Moldova, as mentioned earlier, a large number of cultivated plants have been studied for their compatibility with grapes. Maize, beans, rye, potatoes, radishes, oil radish had a stimulating effect on the growth of grapes. A negative effect was noted when planting together with onions, barley, soybeans, cabbage. The incompatibility of grapes and cabbage has been known for a long time. Already in ancient Greece, they knew that cabbage is the enemy of the vine. This may seem surprising, because other plants of the cabbage family are not so hostile to grapes, while radishes and oil radish, on the contrary, have a beneficial effect on it.

Peas.

Relationships of mutual assistance were noted in peas with carrots, turnips, and cucumbers. It grows well between the rows of these crops, helping them in turn by the fact that, like all legumes, it enriches the soil with nitrogen. Peas can be combined in the same garden with radishes, radishes, cabbage lettuce, kohlrabi, parsley. Combinations of peas with onions, garlic, and tomatoes are unfavorable. Of the herbs, peas are badly affected by wormwood. There are conflicting opinions about the relationship of peas with potatoes and cabbage: some authors consider these combinations quite possible, others have a negative attitude towards them.

Cabbage.

Quite similar preferences for accompanying plants are characteristic of different types of cabbage. A mutual help relationship was noted in cabbage with bush beans and celery. These species have a beneficial effect on each other, and celery, in addition, protects cabbage from earthen fleas. Dill, planted between the rows of cabbage, improves its taste and scares away caterpillars and aphids. For cabbage, the neighborhood of cucumber grass is also favorable, it has a good effect on cabbage and drives away snails with its hard hairy leaves. A very good accompanying crop for cabbage - all types of salad. They also protect it from earthen flea beetles. Cabbage also needs protection from a variety of cabbage butterflies that lay eggs on their leaves. This role can be played by aromatic herbs, which mask the smell of cabbage with their strong smell. Therefore, it is recommended to plant thyme, sage, rosemary, mint, hyssop, wormwood, chamomile around cabbage plantings. Leeks scare away the moth caterpillars. Cabbage can be combined in the same garden with cucumbers, tomatoes, spinach, beets, Swiss chard, potatoes, chicory. There is no consensus about its compatibility with strawberries and onions. Of all types of cabbage, kohlrabi is the most suitable partner for beetroot and a poor neighbor for tomatoes. Cabbage does not go well with parsley and suffers greatly from closely growing grapes. Tansy is bad for collard greens.

Potato.

Growing potatoes in a mixed culture is beneficial. He is less sick and can grow longer in one place without reducing the yield. The best potato partners are spinach, bush beans, and beans. Beans planted in row spacings enrich the soil with nitrogen and repel the Colorado potato beetle. Potatoes go well with cabbage, especially cauliflower and kohlrabi, types of lettuce, corn, radishes. Many authors note that a small number of horseradish plants planted in the corners of a potato plot have a beneficial effect on potatoes. The Colorado potato beetle is deterred by catnip, coriander, nasturtium, tansy, marigolds. It is not recommended to plant potatoes with celery, sunflower and quinoa have a depressing effect on potatoes.

There are conflicting opinions about the relationship of potatoes with tomatoes, beets and peas.

Strawberry.

Strawberries are favorably influenced by bush beans, spinach, and parsley. It is recommended to plant parsley in the aisles of strawberries to scare away slugs. Strawberries can be combined with garlic, cabbage, lettuce, onions, radishes, radishes, beets. Of the herbs, borage (borage) and sage work well on it. Mulching the soil with spruce and pine needles significantly improves the taste of strawberries.

Corn.

Refers to plants very demanding on nutrition, therefore, it is advised to alternate blocks of corn with blocks of bush beans; it benefits from the proximity of this soil improver legume. Corn goes well with cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce, beans, early potatoes. These crops stimulate its growth. It is recommended to plant cucumbers around corn plots. In terms of allelopathy, corn is a very friendly plant for many crops. It has a beneficial effect on sunflowers, potatoes, grapes. Bad neighbors for her are celery and beetroot.

Onion.

The classic combination is onions and carrots. These two crops protect each other from pests: carrots ward off onion flies, and onions ward off carrot flies. Due to its compact shape, the onion is used as an additional crop, which is placed in the aisles of the main crop. It goes well with beets, lettuce, cucumbers, strawberries, spinach, radishes, watercress. There is no consensus regarding the combination of onions with cabbage. Some authors believe that onions work well on cabbage and ward off pests. The edging of savory is favorable for onion growth, chamomile also works well on it, but in small quantities: approximately one plant per 1 running meter. m beds. Onions are not combined with beans, peas, beans. For him, the proximity of sage is unfavorable.

Leek.

Companion plants for leeks - celery, bush beans, head lettuce, carrots, beets. Leeks and celery are linked in a helping relationship, so planting them in alternating rows is recommended.

Perennial onion (chives).

It goes well with tomatoes, celery, lettuce, cabbage, carrots, strawberries, endives, it is not recommended to plant next to peas, beans, beets.

Carrot.

It tolerates the neighborhood of many cultures well, grows well next to onions and spinach, and also goes well with tomatoes, radishes, radishes, Swiss chard, chives, garlic, lettuce. But the closest plant to carrots with which it has a mutual aid relationship is peas. It is recommended to surround carrots with the following crops to scare away carrot flies: rosemary, sage, tobacco, onions. Hostile herbs - dill, anise.

Cucumbers.

For cucumbers, companion plants are bush and curly beans, celery, beets, lettuce, cabbage, garlic, onions, chives, radishes, spinach, fennel. Beans have the most beneficial effect on cucumbers, so it is advised to plant beans around the cucumber plot. Cucumbers themselves are planted around corn, which benefits greatly from such a neighborhood. Herbs favorable for cucumbers are chamomile, dill, cucumber herb. The question of the compatibility of cucumbers with tomatoes is not clear. Various authors express directly opposite opinions on this matter: some believe that this is a good combination, others that this is an absolutely impossible combination. So every gardener will have to find out this question by the most experienced way.

Parsley.

It is a companion plant for many crops: asparagus, roses, celery, leeks, peas, tomatoes, radishes, strawberries, lettuce. It is recommended to plant it along the edges of tomato beds. Planted next to roses, it reduces the number of aphids on them; strawberries planted between rows - drives away slugs.

Pepper.

Companion plant - Basil, carrot, lovage, marjoram, oregano, onion, hostile plant - fennel.

Radish.

It tolerates mixed plantings with tomatoes, spinach, parsley, Swiss chard, types of onions, garlic, types of cabbage, strawberries, peas. Especially favorable for radishes is its combination in the same row with leaf and head lettuce, which protect it from earthen flea beetles. A radish, planted between bush beans, has a particularly delicate flavor and large roots. Beans also protect radishes from pests. Since radish seeds germinate quickly, it is recommended to sow them together with slowly germinating crops (beets, spinach, carrots, parsnips) to mark the rows. Radish does not like intense heat, so it is often sown in alternating rows with chervil, which shades it a little and protects it from overheating. The nasturtium and watercress lining the radish beds enhance the flavor of the radish by spicing it up, and the lettuce gives it a more delicate flavor. The neighborhood of hyssop is unfavorable for radish. Some gardeners believe that cucumbers are a bad neighbor for him.

Turnip.

The companion plant is peas. The walker, mustard and bird knotweed (knotweed) are unfavorable for turnips.

Salad.

Head and leaf lettuce (chives) goes well with most garden crops. It is a good companion for tomatoes, cucumbers, curly and bush beans, chives, spinach, strawberries, peas. Its neighborhood is especially favorable for cruciferous vegetables - all types of cabbage, radish, radish, as it scares off the earthen flea. And for him, the neighborhood of an onion that repels aphids is useful. The salad does not like overheating and needs partial shading, but only partial shading, therefore the close proximity of plants with dense foliage, such as carrots, beets, is unfavorable for the salad. Lettuce bushes can be placed in different parts of the garden, where it will grow under the cover of taller plants. The neighborhood of chrysanthemums is especially favorable for him.

Beetroot.

Hubmann, who has tested the compatibility of table beets with other vegetables for many years, claims that five types of vegetables - potatoes, tomatoes, bush beans, beets and spinach - stimulate each other. According to his observations, beets. It also has a very good effect on cabbage of all kinds, lettuce, radish and radish; for beets, the neighborhood of onions, kohlrabi, spinach, lettuce is especially favorable, in addition, it tolerates joint plantings with garlic, cucumbers, strawberries, celery root well. There is no consensus regarding the incompatibility of beets with other crops. Some gardeners claim that it does not grow well in the vicinity of chives, corn and potatoes. There is also controversy regarding chard, which belongs to the same botanical family as beets. One author claims that it has a beneficial effect on beets, the other that vegetables of this family cannot stand each other's root secretions and therefore they should not be planted next to each other. There are suggestions that the root secretions of beets have antibiotic properties and therefore replanting it to some crops, in particular to carrots, may have a healing effect on them. But at the same time, one should not forget about maintaining a sufficient distance between the plants, since the powerful foliage of the beet shades the neighboring crops.

Celery.

Celery and white cabbage have a mutual help relationship: cabbage stimulates the growth of celery, and celery drives away white butterflies from cabbage. Celery goes well with tomatoes, spinach, cucumbers, salad, beets. Chives and bush beans are especially beneficial for it; it is not recommended to plant celery next to corn, potatoes, parsley, carrots.

Tomatoes.

Tomatoes are considered by some to be "selfish" plants that like to grow on their own, separate from other crops. But the experience of German and Swiss gardeners says that tomatoes tolerate the proximity of other vegetables well and are quite suitable for mixed plantings. They go well with celery, endive, radish, radish, corn, lettuce, cabbage, garlic, carrots, beets. A reciprocal beneficial effect has been noted with chives, spinach, bush beans, and parsley, which is often planted as bordering tomato beds. Tomatoes have a hostile relationship with kohlrabi, fennel, and dill. As for the relationship of tomatoes with potatoes and cucumbers, opinions differ here, perhaps it depends on the method of planting. The neighborhood of the following herbs is favorable for tomatoes, which improve their taste and condition: basil, lemon balm, cucumber herb, chives, marigolds, mint, sage, savory. Stinging nettle growing next to tomatoes improves the quality of tomato juice and prolongs the shelf life of the fruit.

Pumpkin.

Wells with pumpkin are advised to be placed between corn plants. Corn shades the pumpkin in hot weather and saves it from overheating.

Beans.

Bush beans are the friendliest plant in the legume family. Relationships of mutual help and mutual stimulation are noted for beans and radishes, all types of cabbage, corn, celery, cucumbers, potatoes, tomatoes, beets, and spinach. By means of root secretions rich in nitrogen, beans help other types of vegetables growing next to them. In addition, it is compatible with Swiss chard, lettuce, strawberries, leeks. Beans do not tolerate the neighborhood of onions, garlic, fennel, peas. Of the herbs for beans, savory is recommended, which protects it from black aphids.

Garlic.

Apparently, in Western Europe, it is not very popular, so it is rarely used in mixed plantings. It is known that garlic goes well with tomatoes, beets, carrots, cucumbers, strawberries and has a bad effect on beans, peas, cabbage.

Spinach.

Spinach is a favorite member of the vegetable community in Germany and Switzerland. It is credited with many positive qualities, including cold resistance, a short ripening period, and a compact shape. All this makes it a very convenient crop for consistent and stacked plantings. In addition, spinach roots have a beneficial effect on the properties of the soil, and saponin, which is part of its root secretions, stimulates the absorption of nutrients by the roots of vegetables growing next to it. Relationships of mutual beneficial influence were noted for spinach and potatoes, tomatoes, beans, and beets. The most common combinations are spinach with kohlrabi, radish, salad. It also goes well with carrots, onions, parsley, watercress, celery, cabbage, strawberries. Spinach has no hostile relationship with any plant species.

All the advice given regarding planting vegetables together should be taken as guidelines, and not as absolutely rigid rules. Each gardener should test them on his site with the varieties at his disposal for local conditions.

The described methods of joint planting of vegetable crops provide for the effective use of the entire area of ​​the garden throughout the summer season. With this method of cultivation, a plot of 100 m 2 can feed a family of four.

One more important advice from experienced gardeners should be mentioned. This includes drawing up an annual planting plan. It is needed in order, firstly, to observe the correct alternation of crops over the years in accordance with the rotation rules described above, and secondly, to plan overseeding and replanting of some crops to others at the beginning of the year. All this is difficult to remember and keep in mind, especially with a wide variety of crops, so a plan-map of the vegetable garden is absolutely necessary.

Description:

Joint planting of vegetable crops will make your garden not only more beautiful, but also more resistant to various diseases and pests.

Compatibility of aromatic and medicinal herbs in the garden and vegetable garden.

Basil - grows well with tomatoes, repels flies and mosquitoes.

Elderberry scares away mice.

Tagetis - repels insects (should be planted in different parts of the site).

Borago is friends with tomatoes, pumpkins, strawberries: it improves the growth process and the taste of fruits.

Valerian - it's generally good to have her somewhere in the garden.

ISSP - loves cabbage. Jealously scares away the cabbage scoop.

Melissa officinalis - preferably grown in different parts of the garden.

Lovage officinalis is also good to grow in different parts of the garden: it improves the growth and taste of the fruit!

Euphorbia is official - it scares away moths and mice, which means that God himself ordered it to be grown in different parts of the garden.

Tubular monarda - looks good with tomatoes: improves the taste and growth of fruits.

Mint - good with cabbage, tomatoes: improves the general condition of plants, scares off the cabbage scoop.

Peppermint - planted on cabbage, scares off cabbage white.

Nasturtium - very tolerant of radishes, cabbage, pumpkin seeds; sow it under fruit trees: it scares away aphids, bedbugs, and other fleas.

Calendula is good with tomatoes, you can sow in any part of the garden: it repels various insects.

Petunia - Protects legumes!

Chamomile - grows well with cabbage and onions.

Dill - like hyssop, loves cabbage very much and grows well with it.

Garlic - Plant near roses and raspberries!

Tarragon - plant it all over the site!

Sage - plant near cabbages, carrots, BUT - away from cucumbers.

http://www.omsk.com/viewtopic.php?p=3718066&sid=

Sow dill next to the apple tree

It has long been noticed that some plants influence others in a certain way. For example, cabbage, planted as a sealant on cucumber crops, is not affected by pests until harvesting, while in a purely cabbage field there are many of them, especially aphids.

By the way, a good remedy for fighting aphids and some other pests is the roots of horse sorrel, chicory (200 g per 10 l of water), or their aerial parts (400 g), quickly ground in a meat grinder and immediately used.

The popular method of growing onions mixed with carrots is widely known. The last third of the plot is sown with carrots only. From the middle third of the fall, you will harvest both crops perfectly, and there will be a lot of worm-eaten carrots and worm-eaten onions around the edges. In many localities, sowing of hemp and dill is practiced scattered around the garden. At one time this technique was called ignorance. But now, pests do not live in such ignorance.

Amateur gardeners practice sowing onions in rows and between rows of strawberries. The leaves of these crops must be in contact, and plucking onion feathers on greens increases the strength of phytoncidal secretions. These two cultures perfectly disinfect each other. There should be a lot of onion so that the greens of both cultures are equally.

What happens in such a neighborhood? In the process of evolution, the onion fly has become accustomed to onion phytoncides, although its secretions are fatal to all other flies. Conversely, the strawberry mite or weevil has adapted to strawberry phytoncides. But just as an onion fly cannot tolerate strawberry phytoncides, strawberry pests do not tolerate phytoncidal secretions of onions. Moreover, such plantations do not have gray rot even in a damp summer.

Many plants are capable of protecting each other. It is known, for example, that there are no pests on the lower branches of apple trees if dill, tomato and other phytoncidonos grow nearby. It was also noticed that in the garden, where corn is planted in the aisles, there are fewer pests on both crops. This phenomenon will be even more pronounced when sowing row spacing with wild hemp - a highly phytoncidal plant of colossal potential (not to be confused with Indian hemp, which is a raw material for the manufacture of drugs. Our wild hemp does not have such qualities).

To prepare a spray, it is enough to grind the leaves or roots in a juicer or turn through a meat grinder, quickly rinse with cold water, strain and pour the solution into an airtight sprayer. These sprays, despite being deadly for pests, have nothing to do with poisons.

When using underground parts of plants, the highest effect is obtained from the roots of horseradish, garlic and onions. The roots of dandelion, horse sorrel and burdock were also tested (200-300 g of crushed roots per bucket of water). From aboveground parts of plants were tested: onion and garlic feathers; elderberry, hemp, sea buckthorn, poplar, alder leaves; needles; all nightshade (tops of tomatoes, potatoes, tobacco). The aerial parts of the plants were taken up to 400 g per bucket of cold water. It has long been known a method of sprinkling (with a broom) currant bushes with infusions and decoctions of onion peels to combat kidney mites. These are already other, more persistent fractions of phytoncides. These include extracts from dry plants. If you start spraying with onion peel infusion from the beginning of the extension of the flower brush and until the formation of the first berries every five to seven days, then not only ticks, but also no other pests will appear on the bushes.

The results are similar when spraying currant and gooseberry bushes with preparations from horseradish, elderberry, poplar. The plants were found to be clean of fireflies, sawflies, gall midges, and glass moths. This does not harm beneficial insects. Hunting for pests on different plants, they become immune to their phytoncidal secretions.

During flowering, elderberry branches are stuck into the gooseberry and currant bushes. This protects against moths. For the same purpose, the bushes are poured with mullein solution.

Our grandfathers defended themselves from the moth as follows: tow soaked in tar was hung on the branches of apple trees after flowering. The best results are obtained by alternating spraying with a solution of juice of elderberry leaves with treatment with other phytoncides (infusion of onion husks, horseradish pomace, garlic, etc.). Lupines and tomatoes growing next to bushes scare off flying pests. The effect increases if the leaves of phytoncidonos and protected bushes are in contact.

A provocative method of protecting plants from pests opens up very great prospects. If you spray cabbage with pomace from potato tops, then all cabbage pests stop it<узнавать>and immediately fly away, and creeping pests with potato phytoncides are generally killed. If a potato plot is sprayed with pomace from cabbage leaves, then cabbage pests flock to the smell and begin to lay eggs here. But when in 10 days caterpillars appear from the testicles, they are immediately killed by phytoncides of a plant alien to them. Similar pairs can be found among all plants. An apple tree, for example, can be sprayed with equal success from the moth with a solution of woodlice grass, tomato leaves, poplar, pine needles.

Victor Mikhailovich NACHAROV, Samara

Mixed planting is the cultivation of several vegetables or berries in a limited area at once, mixed or according to a scheme for the rational use of the area. Plants help each other in many ways.

For example, flowers planted next to vegetables and blooming at the same time attract pollinating insects, some spicy plants secrete pests that repel vegetables or flowers, others synthesize substances by roots that stimulate the development of roots of vegetable and fruit plants.

This is only a small part of the positive relationship, gardeners often notice a favorable neighborhood of plants, but cannot even guess the reason, or find an answer in the literature that would explain such a community. Perhaps the point is in a mini ecosystem, because in addition to plants, millions of microorganisms live and multiply on a tiny piece of land, plants breathe, consume various nutrients, and release various substances into the soil and air.

Sometimes the influence of one culture on another is indirect, for example, bushes of weeds adjacent to currants can attract aphids, and, roughly speaking, take a hit while ladybugs are activated. Some flowers planted even at the other end of the garden (yarrow, asters, rudbeckia) are attractive to lacewings, which eat not only aphids, but also Colorado potato beetle larvae.

The benefits of joint landings

Joint planting of herbs, flowers, vegetables and fruit and berry crops opens up great opportunities:

• allow to reduce or reduce the use of high doses of mineral fertilizers
• abandon pesticides
• get a larger yield from the same area in comparison with monoculture
• get a harvest throughout the season, occupying the vacated area from early early ripening vegetables
• improve the taste of fruits or berries (for example, bush beans improve the taste of radishes, mint - cabbage) and their nutritional value (the content of sugars and vitamins increases)
• prevent unilateral soil depletion (for example, severely reduce nitrogen or phosphorus content)

Companion plants

Among the whole variety of spicy and salad herbs, vegetables and berries, there are special groups - pairs that most favorably affect each other:

• watermelons - peas
• beans - rosemary
• grapes - mustard
• melons - radishes
• melons - corn
• strawberry (strawberry) - parsley
• strawberry (strawberry) - cumin
• onions - carrots
• cabbage - oregano and marjoram
• cabbage - thyme (thyme)
• parsnip - peas
• pepper - basil
• radish - bush beans
• radish - parsnip
• turnip - peas
• salad - all types of cabbage
• salad - radish
• celery - cabbage
• soybeans - corn
• asparagus - parsley
• pumpkin - corn

Some vegetables are so friendly that they yield good yields alongside many other crops:

• leek welcomes celery, bush beans, head lettuce, carrots, beets
• cucumbers - all kinds of beans, celery, beets, lettuce, cabbage, garlic, onions, chives, radishes, spinach, fennel
• strawberries like garlic, onions, radishes, radishes, beets, cabbage, lettuce
• beets - all types of cabbage, radishes, radishes, lettuce
• chard can be planted next to beans, any kind of cabbage, including kohlrabi, peppers and onions
• potatoes respect spinach and bush beans
• garlic does not just get along, but also has a beneficial effect on tomatoes, beets, carrots (not counting the above)
• parsley is good for celery, leeks, tomatoes, radishes, strawberries, peas, lettuce
• savory is suitable for eggplants, potatoes, tomatoes, bush beans
• sage - cabbage, carrots, strawberries, tomatoes
• tarragon is generally good for everyone, no matter what vegetables you plant, but it helps eggplants best of all

It is reliably known about spinach that it promotes the growth of tomatoes, beans, beets, kohlrabi, radish, lettuce - its roots secrete saponins that stimulate root growth processes by increasing the permeability of cell membranes for water and nutrients. By the way, in addition to spinach, a lot of saponins are released into the soil by primroses.

Joint boarding rules

If you suddenly do not remember the various combinations of crops in the beds, or you doubt the beneficial effect of some herbs and vegetables on others, there are always rules that have a decisive weight when drawing up planting schemes:

1. Do not place crops of the same family next to them - they have common diseases and pests, with the exception of eggplant and pepper
2. Combine early ripening greens and vegetables with plants of a longer growing season:
   • short ripening times for radishes, lettuce, bok choy, onions, kohlrabi, watercress, lettuce, white mustard, early potatoes and early cucumbers
   • long ripening period for cucumbers (not counting early ones), zucchini, pumpkin, eggplant, peppers, tomatoes, cabbage, beets
3. Light orientation in such a way that tall plants do not shade low light-loving plants, but shade light-sensitive seedlings
   • light-loving vegetables: watermelons and melons, cucumbers, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, corn
   • those who like to grow in shade: Chinese cabbage, lettuce, parsley, zucchini, rhubarb, does not like the sultry sun young seedlings of any vegetables
   • moderately photophilous: carrots, cabbage, garlic, onions, beans, radishes, radishes, turnips
4. We take into account the rules of crop rotation - good and bad predecessors -

Mixed beds

Traditionally, three crops are grown on the same bed with mixed plantings: the previous (early), main, and subsequent.

Mixed bed example

We take into account the predecessors and compatibility of vegetables.

After preparing the beds in the spring, as soon as the soil temperature allows, early vegetables, such as radishes or lettuce, are planted in a continuous carpet.

By the time the radishes ripen and lettuce bunches grow, you can safely thin them out and plant a suitable follower, such as spinach. The landing pattern is optimal in a checkerboard pattern.

If you are not against legumes, then bush beans can be planted next to the spinach in place of the radish. You just need to take into account that on the side of the garden where the beans will be, there is free access to its bushes from the border for convenient collection of pods.

When the spinach crop and leftover radishes are harvested, you can plant early ripening cucumbers and lettuce or lettuce instead.

After harvesting the beans, early white cabbage, kohlrabi or broccoli can be planted in its place next to the cucumbers (sowing time is July, choose varieties that ripen in 50-55 days). Of course, you need to prepare cabbage seedlings in advance and calculate the exact sowing dates in order to have time to harvest from the previous crop.

Mixed planting scheme

Another mixed planting scheme, taking into account the total turnover.

One of the secrets of successful gardening is allelopathy - the compatibility of vegetable crops. In other words, it is knowledge about how plants "are friends with each other". This approach will help not only achieve high yields and health of crops, but also preserve the natural fertility of the soil, which is an essential condition for any type of farming.

• Show all

  Features of plant interaction

  When a summer resident draws up a planting plan on his site, he needs to know what has grown on it in previous seasons. This is very important, since when growing monocultures, a one-sided depletion of the soil occurs, which means that not all plants will be able to survive and give a good harvest.

  Crops differ in terms of fruit ripening time. This allows you to rationally distribute the plantings and make sure that the land does not stand idle. The size of plants, their need for illumination and soil moisture, resistance to pests, and demands on fertility must be taken into account. In the latter case, there are strong consumers of nutrients, and there are weaker ones, which is one of the factors affecting the compatibility of vegetables in the garden.

  All of the above criteria lay the foundation for natural farming called "mixed planting".

  Planting vegetable crops - after what predecessors can you expect a good harvest?

  What are mixed plantings?

  This is a method of organic farming, based on many years of experience of famous gardeners, who closely observe natural processes in the plant world and implement them in their plots. It was this approach - observation and application - that made it possible to accurately determine the compatibility of plants in the garden.

  The essence of this method is to plant different vegetable crops on the same plot of land so that they have a beneficial effect on each other, creating a good microclimate that provides a rich harvest and natural protection from pests.

  Method advantages

  People who have been planting vegetables for several years on a mixed principle note the following positive aspects of this approach:

  • the yield increased several times - 15-20 kilograms from 1 m 2;
  • there is no need to thoroughly weed out;
  • the time spent on gardening work has been reduced;
  • the vegetables in the garden have practically ceased to hurt, their appearance has become healthier;
  • it became possible to get fresh vegetables before the first frost;
  • improved taste and aroma of products;
  • mixed plantings attract more pollinating bees;
  • the need for watering of plants has decreased;
  • the available land area has become more efficiently used;
  • the depletion of the soil has stopped with the further prospect of its recovery;
  • the need for crop rotation has disappeared.

  When creating the correct mixed plantings in the garden, a separate "kingdom" is formed, which has its own laws that do not require unnecessary human intervention. Vegetables and other plants, terrestrial and underground insects and other fauna coexist in harmony, maintaining a natural balance, as in the wild. Of course, a person is not completely removed from work, but his physical labor in the garden is reduced to a minimum.

  

  Basic rules for mixed landings

  A few simple rules will help you get a good harvest without the use of chemical fertilizers:

  • The optimal bed width is 1 meter.
  • The main crop is planted in the center of the garden bed, and the accompanying crop is planted on the sides.
  • Slowly ripening species are chosen as the main ones, which by the time of fruiting grow strongly, for example, tomatoes.
  • Accompanying plants are stunted plants with a fibrous root system that retain moisture in the ground and ripen quickly, for example, greens. By the time the main culture begins to mature, the friendly ones around it will have already gathered and made room.

  For the correct combinations of plants in the garden, you can use the vegetable compatibility table for planting.

  Compatibility of vegetable crops with each other

  The plant compatibility chart clearly shows what you can plant with and how the plants affect each other.

  Culture name	Friendly neighbors	Beneficial features	Unfriendly neighbors
  Watermelon	beans, potatoes, sow thistle, marsh, oats
  Basil	bell peppers, peas, all types of cabbage, tomatoes, eggplants, asparagus	scares off ants, aphids and other pests; protects tomatoes and corn from horned worm, beans - from legume weevil	cucumber, rue
  Eggplant	pepper, bush beans, onions, spinach, lettuce, peas, thyme, basil		fennel, cucumber, pumpkin
  Vegetable beans	all types of cabbage, peas, carrots, radishes, rhubarb, cucumber, beets, corn, potatoes, pumpkin, sage, zucchini, strawberries, mustard, lettuce, rosemary	legumes are able to enrich the soil with nitrogen; scare away the Colorado potato beetle, get rid of the wireworm	fennel, peas, onions, garlic, marigolds
  Peas	basil, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard, eggplant, Beijing, legumes, carrots, turnips, cucumber, radish, radish, parsley, zucchini, pumpkin, watermelon, corn	improves the taste of watermelons and their growth; enriches the soil with nitrogen	hyssop, wormwood, rhubarb, beans, rhubarb, tomato, onion, garlic, beans
  Mustard	all types of cabbage, radish, legumes, peas, beets, spinach		beets, rapeseed, turnips
  Melon	corn, radish, radish, beans		potatoes, cucumbers
  Zucchini	onions, corn, beets, legumes, bush beans, mint, radish, nasturtium		Potatoes, pumpkin
  White cabbage	radishes, beets, potatoes, lettuce, cucumber, celery, beans, spinach, onions, fennel, dill, beans, mint, sage, coriander, rosemary, thyme, basil, thyme, marjoram	stimulates the growth of celery	carrots, tomato, grapes, turnips, garlic, parsley, tansy, cauliflower
  Broccoli	parsley, beans, potatoes, onions, beets, lettuce, carrots, sage, celery, dill, rosemary, oregano, nasturtium, mint, chamomile		tomato, turnip, strawberry, cauliflower
  Brussels sprouts	potatoes, beans, mustard, sage, mint, celery, hyssop, lettuce, dill		Strawberries, tomatoes
  Kohlrabi	cucumber, lettuce, radish, onion, beet, spinach, peas, mint, dill, potatoes, fennel, basil, mustard, pepper, chamomile, sage		tomato, beans, strawberry, horseradish, garlic
  Collard greens	potatoes, mint, sage		tansy
  Cabbage	peas, beans, spinach, lettuce, carrots, mint, mustard, sage		Strawberry, tomato
  Cauliflower	lettuce, cucumber, celery, potatoes, beans, mustard, hyssop, mint, nasturtium, thyme, sage, grapes		tomato, strawberry, white cabbage, beetroot, broccoli
  Potato	onions, white cabbage, corn, horseradish, garlic, beans, radish, eggplant, radish, calendula, legumes, spinach, lettuce, horseradish, nasturtium, marigolds, thyme, coriander, beets, watermelon, amaranth		fennel, pumpkin, quinoa, tomato, cucumber, melon, celery, sunflower, zucchini, rhubarb
  Watercress	radish, radish, turnip, onion, nasturtium, spinach, tomato, grapes	improves the taste of radish	cucumbers
  Corn	potatoes, lettuce, beans, beans, zucchini, pumpkin, cucumber, peas, watermelon, artichoke, melon, tomato, soy, basil, grapes, sunflower, lettuce	gives good shade for watermelons, melons, pumpkins, cucumbers and improves their growth and flavor	fennel, onion, beet, celery
  Onion	carrots, cucumber, beets, tomato, cabbage, chicory, strawberries, spinach, watercress, chamomile, zucchini, watermelon, melon, fennel, savory, marjoram, pepper, potatoes, dill, parsley, borago	scares away pests from carrots; improves tomato growth	sage, beans, beans, radishes, radishes, peas, turnips, asparagus
  Leek	celery, parsley, carrots, cabbage, lettuce, beets, borago, beans, strawberries	scares away aphids and cabbage scoop caterpillars	beans, broccoli, peas
  Carrot	cucumber, onion, radish, peas, beets, sage, parsley, radish, spinach, lettuce, peas, rosemary, sage, tobacco, tomato, garlic, chives, marjoram, strawberries	scares the onion fly	beets, anise, parsley, fennel, dill, celery
  Cucumber	corn, white late cabbage, carrots, onions, garlic, beans, dill, fennel, peas, lettuce, radish, kohlrabi, spinach, beetroot, radish, celery, chamomile, eggplant, legumes, cilantro, peanuts		tomato, marjoram, potatoes, watercress, melon, eggplant, basil, rhubarb, sage,
  Pepper	tomato, basil, lovage, spinach, geranium, petunia, marjoram, carrot, onion, eggplant, tomato, thyme, coriander	promotes the growth of basil	kohlrabi, pumpkin, beans, cucumber, fennel
  Parsley	onions, grapes, strawberries, spinach, thyme, asparagus, lettuce, dill, peas, zucchini, radish, radish	improves the taste of tomatoes; heals vineyards; scares away slugs among strawberry plantings	carrots, celery, lovage, cilantro, white cabbage
  Rhubarb	celery, cabbage, lettuce, beans, peas, spinach		potatoes, turnips, radishes, onions, carrots, radishes, radishes, peas
  Radish	tomato, beans, spinach, carrots, cabbage, celery, lettuce, beans, squash, pumpkin, peas, onions, parsley, cucumber, potatoes, watercress, garlic, grapes, strawberries, clover, beets, melon, turnip	stimulates the growth of grapes	fennel, rhubarb, hyssop,
  Radish	cucumber, melon, tomato, carrot, spinach, beans, fennel, beets, cabbage, parsnips, beans, grapes, watercress, parsley, strawberries	protects cucumbers from leaf beetles and spider mites and improves their taste; favorably affects the soil	hyssop, beets, onions, rhubarb, celery
  Turnip	radishes, peas, watercress, spinach, beans		tomato, rhubarb, mustard, onion, walleye, knotweed
  Salad	legumes, parsley, beets, peas, potatoes, strawberries, corn, onions, peppers, radishes, turnips, pumpkin, beans, celery, spinach, eggplant	improves the growth and taste of tomatoes; protects crops from earthen fleas	carrots, beets
  Beet	onions, radishes, cucumbers, carrots, garlic, cabbage, zucchini, beans, tomato, fennel, beans, peas, lettuce, potatoes	stimulates the growth of grapes	chives, celery, corn, dill, mustard
  Celery	cabbage, cucumber, spinach, onion, beans, tomato, beans	protects crops from earthen fleas; scares off white butterflies from cabbage	corn, potatoes, carrots, radishes, beets, parsley
  Asparagus	basil, parsley, tomato, potato, cabbage, salad		spinach, beans, onions
  Tomato	basil, radish, parsley, onion, garlic, lettuce, beans, carrots, thistle, corn, spinach, sage, asparagus, beans, early white cabbage, beets, celery, radish, lemon balm, marigolds, stinging nettle, pepper, thyme, mint		quinoa, turnip, potatoes, dill, peas, fennel, pumpkin, kohlrabi, cucumber
  Pumpkin	corn, mint, peas, beans, radish		potatoes, peppers, pumpkin, tomato, zucchini
  Dill	broccoli, cabbage, cucumber, spinach, onion, lettuce	increases the yield of cucumbers and cabbage; scares off aphids and caterpillars	carrots, tomato, beets, basil, potatoes, beans
  Bush beans	cabbage, potatoes, cucumber, radish, lettuce, turnip, celery, tomato, savory, spinach, eggplant, grapes, pumpkin, strawberry, beetroot, corn, zucchini, borago	enhances the flavor of radishes and potatoes, protects against pests	garlic, onion, peas, kohlrabi cabbage, dill, pepper, asparagus
  Fennel	White cabbage, kohlrabi, cucumber, onion, radish, beet		eggplant, cumin, radish, beans, carrot, tomato, potato, coriander, pepper, spinach, corn
  Horseradish	potato	protects against potato bugs	kohlrabi, radish, radish
  Garlic	parsley, tomato, beet, carrot, lettuce, cucumber, radish, strawberry, potato		beans, beans, cabbage, peas
  Spinach	compatible with almost all cultures	accelerates onion growth, creates a favorable microclimate	asparagus, fennel, zucchini

  Planting strawberries

  To get a good harvest of this tasty and tender culture, you need to choose the right neighborhood of vegetables in the beds with it. The best neighbors for strawberries are parsley, which repels slugs, and leeks, which protect against gray mold.

  Calendula and marigolds help control nematodes. In the fall, these flowers can be crushed and mulched with the aisles. Irises protect strawberry bushes from frost. Sage improves palatability.

  The proximity to carrots increases the yield of both crops. Onions and garlic repel harmful insects. Spinach, lettuce, beans, beets, radishes and radishes have a positive effect on the growth of strawberries.

  Strawberries do not have bad neighbors in the garden among vegetables, although the opinion regarding the neighborhood of different types of cabbage with it remains ambiguous. It is believed that the culture does not like the close location of birches, but it feels good near spruces and pines, whose needles can be used as mulch.

  Nutrient Requirements of Vegetable Crops

  Different crops consume different amounts of nutrients, mainly nitrogen, which greatly affects the compatibility of plants in the garden. According to this principle, they can be classified:

  • Strong consumers: cabbage - white cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, red, Beijing; pumpkin, cucumbers, zucchini, celery.
  • Average consumers: radish, potatoes, eggplant, beets, carrots, spinach, chicory, head lettuce, onions, fennel.
  • Weak consumers: radishes, beans, peas, spices, herbs.