How to get rid of dampness in the cellar. Dealing with dampness in the basement

To get rid of dampness, you need to conduct a series preparatory activities. Understand why it appeared, where moisture oozes from and how you can fix it. You will learn about all this from our article.

Dampness - very unpleasant phenomenon, which is capable of destroying the stored crop. If moisture "settles" in the room, this can lead to the destruction of the structure and the deterioration of the health of everyone who regularly descends into the cellar or basement. About why dampness "comes to visit" and how to get rid of it as soon as possible - read in our material.

Dampness in the house- causes of occurrence

Condensation forms on ceilings, floors and walls for a number of reasons. The most common causes of dampness are the following factors:

• ventilation problems. Errors at the design or construction stage lead to the fact that ventilation is disturbed in the room. The most common mistake is the following - poorly laid floor slabs and construction debris block the ventilation ducts. With a temperature difference inside and outside the room, condensation forms on the windows and walls, and this is the first sign that mold will soon appear;
• groundwater level rise. In spring and autumn, when basements and cellars begin to flood due to heavy rains, dampness also becomes more active. Poor drainage leads to the fact that water accumulates in underground storages, the level of humidity rises sharply, and the room turns into an eternally damp closed system;
• capillary penetration of moisture from the soil or through cracks. If the foundation was erected in violation of technology, then after some time, due to temperature changes, droplets of moisture will appear on its inner walls. Over time, this can lead to partial damage to the walls and even their collapse.

Why is dampness dangerous?

The appearance of condensation and characteristic bad smell These are just the first signs of impending trouble. Condensation causes the following effects:

• mold and fungus appear;
• violated temperature regime and the level of humidity in the room;
• microorganisms harmful to humans multiply;
• walls, ceilings and ceilings are constantly waterlogged, because of which the finish suffers;
• the destruction of the foundation, walls and ceilings begins.

First of all, all summer residents are concerned about the question of how to remove dampness. There are several reliable ways to eliminate dampness in the cellar and basement, but first you need to find out what caused the appearance excess moisture. To do this, carefully inspect the room:

• if water droplets appeared on the walls and ceiling, the reason is in violation of ventilation;
• puddles on the floor indicate an increase in the level of groundwater;
• drops only on the walls hint at the lack of basement waterproofing.

Now let's take a closer look at ways to eliminate each of the causes.

How to improve ventilation

If the air exchange in the room is disturbed, the easiest way is to improve it by organizing additional ventilation. Basement ventilation is of two types:

• natural - involves the use of the so-called. "vents" - holes around the perimeter of the building. Their total area should be about 1/400 total area building;
• forced - involves the use of special equipment that forcibly pumps Fresh air. Usually used in large rooms.

To get rid of condensation on the ceiling and walls, you can carry out the following procedures:

1. thermal insulation engineering networks . If you have communications in the basement - plumbing and sewer pipes- the temperature of the water in them is always higher than the temperature in the room. As a result, condensation forms on them. To get rid of heat loss, you need to use a protective sheath of mineral wool, foam and extruded polystyrene foam.
2. Organization of the hood. For additional ventilation of the room, ventilation ducts or pipes are installed. They are usually attached to vertical load-bearing elements or attached to existing structures. Two pipes are installed in the room - exhaust and supply, placing them on different height from the floor in opposite corners of the room. This is necessary in order for draft to appear and the room to be purged.

If groundwater enters the premises, this is serious problem, which over time can lead to a partial collapse of the building. In this case, it is necessary to carry out a number of additional measures aimed at strengthening the foundation and pumping out groundwater. In particular, you will need to do the following:

• dig the foundation
• organize drainage around the perimeter of the building;
• strengthen the foundation
• arrange external and internal waterproofing;
• make a blind area around the perimeter of the building;
• dry the room.

If moisture forms on the walls of a building, it means that it penetrates from external environment namely, from soil. To prevent its access to the premises, you can use some of the most popular measures:

• use of waterproofing materials- primarily roofing material, linocrom and hydroisol. All of them are made from pieces of dense material impregnated with bitumen. The cellar or basement is pasted over as with outside, and from the inside;
• protective compounds, which clog pores in concrete, are also considered an excellent "cure" for capillary moisture. Thanks to these compositions, it is possible to organize both a point effect on the holes through which moisture oozes, and application to all problem areas;
• bituminous mastic and polymer resins used for additional protection of walls and floors from condensate. These compounds can be applied independently, but they do not always provide the necessary level of protection and it is better to supplement them with waterproofing materials;
• shielding it is used in especially difficult cases, when groundwater appears in the room simultaneously with capillary action. Protective shields are made of geotextile, concrete or clay.

Inspect the structure and check the condition of the slopes, downpipes, drainage system and blind areas. If you, in principle, do not have a drainage system, then first start by installing downpipes and slopes. Next, proceed to the protection of the outer walls:

• remove the old blind area;
• dig a hole about 50 cm wide from outer wall basement;
• dry the outer wall;
• apply an antifungal composition to it;
• coat the wall with bituminous mastic, clay or concrete with liquid glass additives;
• make a blind area from a sheet of roofing material - fix it 0.5 m above the ground level and take it out of the edges outer wall basement;
• fill in the hole.

After performing outdoor work, it is also possible to insulate the basement or cellar with inside. It is done like this:

• dry the room;
• remove all loose coatings and whitewash;
• find and clear all cracks;
• soak the walls with an antifungal drug;
• apply a waterproofing compound;
• if desired, plaster the walls at a height of 0.5-1 m from the floor.

If moisture penetrates through the walls, gets on the floor and evaporates, you should also deal with the floor covering. The floor and walls should be concreted using liquid glass and only. You can also follow simple algorithm(in the event that you have a clay floor):

• remove a layer of clay about 5 cm thick;
• level the floor surface and cover it with two layers of waterproofing film;
• sprinkle it on top with clay or fill it with concrete and level the surface.

When seasonal flooding of the site use another method:

• lay a layer of sand or gravel about 10 cm thick on the floor to protect against groundwater flooding. Add more gravel if necessary if groundwater seeps through the drainage layer;
• apply a special waterproofing plaster to the walls;
• arrange in the corners of the cellar glass jars with calcium chloride (it will absorb excess moisture). For one cellar, no more than 0.5-1 kg of powder is required;
• sprinkle the floor with quicklime with a layer of 1 cm - it will absorb excess moisture and dry the room. To combat fungus and mold, you can slake lime right in the basement. Pour some lime into an empty container and fill it with water. The vapors released will destroy germs and mold.

Folk methods of dealing with dampness

You can normalize the level of humidity in the cellar using folk remedies:

• dry the walls of the cellar with clay bricks. Place in different angles basement 2-3 bricks heated on a fire. As they cool, they begin to absorb moisture. To achieve maximum effect, they can be used repeatedly;
• to get rid of mold, treat the walls of the cellar with acetic or boric acid (dilute 20 ml of acid in 1 liter of water), you can use citric acid(dissolve 100 g of powder in 1 liter of water);
• take out all the products stored there from the basement or cellar and treat the damp walls with diesel fuel, and then whitewash them.

With the arrival of the cold season, homeowners with basements are faced with such a serious problem as the formation of dampness in them. The appearance of condensate on the ceiling and walls is a signal that urgent action needs to be taken. This phenomenon can destroy things, food supplies, lead to the growth of moldy fungus, and become the culprit in the destruction of the entire structure of the building.

Causes of dampness

The trend towards accelerated construction has led to the fact that it is carried out in violation of time-tested technologies, on projects drawn up contrary to all existing norms. As a result, after a certain interval following the delivery of the object, moisture appears in the basement. Its effect on materials reduces their strength, shortens their service life, and forces them to spend additional funds on restoration work.

There can be several reasons for dampness in the cellar. In some cases, the source of moisture is clearly visible, and it is not difficult to remove it, in others, it is necessary to involve specialists with equipment to search for it.

Having appeared in the basement, dampness will not disappear by itself. The walls will gradually accumulate moisture and collapse. A moldy fungus is formed on them, which harms not only the structure of the building, but also human health, the changes will also affect the temperature regime.

The best ways to get rid

To find the source, carefully examine the cellar:

• Moisture on the walls and ceiling indicates insufficient ventilation.
• The appearance of puddles on the floor informs about the lack of drainage and elevated level ground water.
• If the condensate appears only on the walls, then the foundation is poorly insulated.

If it was not possible to find out the reason, it is necessary to carry out forced drying, using ventilation and special devices to maintain a certain temperature regime.

Cause high humidity in the basement of a private house there are water and sewer communications. The temperature of their pipes is always much different from the temperature of the room, which causes the appearance of moisture and mold. In this case, thermal insulation is necessary.

Best working ways to deal with moisture and mold

There are a number of proven over the years folk methods, allowing to dry a damp basement during its seasonal flooding. They will not help to completely eliminate the problem, but in an emergency they are effective.

1. Calcium chloride has the ability to absorb moisture in in large numbers. Arranged cans with the substance will allow you to get rid of condensate. For an area of ​​8-9 m2, 1 kg is required.

2. Quicklime, poured on the floor, will not only absorb excess moisture and dry the basement, but at the same time disinfect the air and destroy mold. For a medium-sized room, you need 4-5 kg. This method requires caution, as the vapors of the substance are poisonous. After processing, you need to perform ventilation.

3. Dried, calcined clay, laid out in the corners, cooling down, will absorb dampness. If necessary, it can be removed and reused.

4. Eliminate mold on the walls and ceiling of the cellar by washing it off with boric or acetic acid. For this, 20 ml of the composition is diluted in 0.5 l of water. Applied with a brush. To obtain a greater effect, washing should be repeated twice with a frequency of 2-3 days. Wash the surface after the first time.

5. If the affected area is extensive, then it is appropriate to treat the basement with diesel fuel, and then whiten it.

Fighting mold takes a long time and can take several years. Therefore, one must think about how to remove dampness when laying the foundation of a building.

Condensation in the cellar is a common, natural, but not desirable phenomenon. To get rid of condensate, you need to know the causes of its formation and ways to eliminate these factors. At the same time, from the existing technologies, it is necessary to choose one that will not change the temperature and humidity characteristics to unacceptable values. For example, the temperature and humidity in three cellars, one of which is used for storage fresh vegetables, the second is canned food, and the third is used as a workshop, should be different. Therefore, the cellar must be eliminated in a way that will retain the possibility of using the premises for its original purpose.

Consider how to eliminate condensation on the ceiling in unheated cellar or basement with reference to the functionality of the room.

What is condensate

To understand why in the basement on the ceiling are formed water drops, and what is condensate, consider two parameters - absolute and relative humidity.

Absolute air humidity measured in g/m3, relative - in percentages.

The ability of air to hold steam in itself depends on temperature - the warmer the air, the more moisture it can take, and vice versa. Therefore, upon rapid cooling warm air the value of its maximum humidity decreases, and the excess moisture contained in the gas before the temperature drops falls on cold surfaces in the form of water droplets.

Conditions necessary for water condensation

From the process described above, it follows that for the formation of condensate in the room, two factors must be present:

• the presence in the cellar of bases in contact with air with a sufficiently low surface temperature;
• the entry of warm air containing moisture into the basement.

Absence exhaust ventilation contributes to the condensation of water, since the condensate evaporating from the surfaces is not removed to the outside and participates in a closed cycle of evaporation-condensation-evaporation.

Causes of condensation in the cellar

So the drops water on the ceiling in the cellar are formed for the following reasons:

• lack of insulation of enclosing structures;
• each time the hatch is opened, a portion of warm air enters the room with a certain amount of steam condensing on cold grounds.

At the same time, moisture condensation on the ceiling can occur with different intensity, depending on the time of year. For example, if above the basement is unheated room, in which in winter the air temperature can be even lower than in the cellar, then the flow of cold air down will not be accompanied by the formation of condensate. And in summer, on the contrary, moisture condensation will be stronger, especially after rain, when the humidity of the warm air entering the cold cellar is especially high.

Ways to eliminate the causes of condensation

You can remove condensation on the ceiling in the cellar different ways. Sometimes it is enough to perform a single operation, in some cases it is necessary to apply a set of measures. The choice of measures to eliminate or reduce the intensity of condensation should be made with reference to the functionality of the room, so that the results obtained (new temperature and hygroscopic parameters of the environment) meet the requirements for the room. In particular, it is necessary to foresee the formation of condensate in the cellar on the ceiling even at the construction stage. and decide what to do with basement enclosing structures to prevent condensation.

Consider how warn or remove condensation in the cellar on the ceiling with the help of preventive and corrective measures during the construction of a house or the operation of an existing basement.

Insulation and waterproofing of enclosing structures from the outside

If the house project does not include insulation of external structures, then the ideal level of location ceiling cellar premises should be below the freezing mark in the region. But in this case, the volume of the building, located in the frozen ground, and this is at least 0.8 m in height, remains unused. Thus, insulation is necessary.

Ideally, the level of the basement floor should be above the groundwater level, which is most often not feasible without the production of a large volume earthworks to create an embankment. Long-term contact with water of enclosing structures without waterproofing is inevitably fraught with capillary seepage of moisture inside, therefore side surface the foundation of the building and the walls of the basement floor must be waterproofed from the outside to the entire depth of the location, protecting it from groundwater and precipitation present in the upper layers of the soil. Waterproofing is carried out during the construction process by coating with bituminous mastic or laying sheet insulating material (independently or in combination with bitumen).

If the groundwater is salty, then concrete is poured under the foundation on a pre-arranged external waterproofing grounds.

On the foundation, in addition, subsequently arranged and internal waterproofing under the device floor, on strip base- under the erected walls.

After the waterproofing is completed, the side enclosing structures are insulated from the outside. As a heater, it is better to use extruded foam (foam) - a material with high thermal insulation properties and strength characteristics for compression. Below ground level, ordinary foam can also be used, but on above-ground wall surfaces, foam is preferable, since ordinary polyurethane foam, due to its low hardness, needs additional protection from mechanical damage.

Important! The foam insulation must be treated on both sides with an antiseptic - ants start up even in artificial insulating materials and destroy them.

Extraction device

Cellar ventilation equipment is necessary in any case, not only to remove evaporating moisture. Air must enter the room to allow breathing, and this is impossible through the only permanently closed cellar hatch. To avoid subsequent damage to the floor finish of the first floor when making holes in concrete slab ceilings for ventilation ducts, the hood must be arranged at the construction stage.

The ventilation system (exhaust) of the cellar consists of two pipes - exhaust and air supply from the outside. Ventilation can be natural or forced, the material of execution is steel, plastic or reinforced rubber pipes.

For the device of natural ventilation of the basement, in one of the corners of the cellar ceiling, a hole is made along the diameter of the ventilation exhaust pipe, and diagonally to it in the wall or ceiling - the second of the same diameter, for the inlet channel. An exhaust pipe is inserted into the first hole, protruding 10 cm into the room, and vertically into the second hole with an exit through the ceiling or by means of a 90 degree bend. an inlet air duct is mounted through the wall - not reaching the level of the cellar floor by 30 cm.

When choosing a pipe diameter, a simple rule is used: during installation natural ventilation basement per 1 sq. meter of its area requires 5 millimeters of the diameter of the circular duct. For example, for a garage with dimensions of 6x4 m (area 24 sq. M.), A pipe with a diameter of 24x5 \u003d 120 mm is required. If gas or liquid fuel heaters are not used in the cellar, then a deviation in the diameter of the hood of 10-15 mm does not matter.

Important! Supply and exhaust air ducts must be equipped with dampers to control the speed of air movement through the basement.

In the future, if the ventilation of the cellar is insufficiently efficient, if the formation of condensate is intense, it is possible to install exhaust fan. At the same time, the design of the ventilation ducts does not change, and ventilation becomes forced, the power of which depends on the performance of the fan.

This operation ends with need to do under construction to avoid wet ceiling in basement or cellar.

Consider how them ways you can remove condensation on the ceiling in the cellar of an already built house in order to forget about this problem for a long time.

Insulation of the walls of the basement of the operated building

If the enclosing structures of the cellar were not insulated during construction, then this can be done later. Along the perimeter of the building along the walls, the blind area is dismantled, and a trench of the required depth is dug, the deepening of which is carried out evenly along the entire length. The width of the trench is made for the possibility of performing insulation and insulation work in it - at least 1 m.

Important! According to the earthwork safety rule, the trench wall with a depth of more than 1 meter must be secured with shields to prevent collapse.

The exposed surfaces of the enclosing structures are cleaned and washed from the soil with a brush and a jet of water. After the walls have dried, they are insulated, if necessary - preliminary waterproofing. The most rational technology in this situation will be the insulation of the bases by spraying polyurethane foam.

After the end of the hydro- and thermal insulation works the trench is covered with geotextile and covered with crushed stone with layer-by-layer compaction, a blind area is arranged over the crushed stone backfill.

If, with external wall insulation and the presence of an exhaust hood, condensate still forms in the basement, two circumstances should be considered: the temperature of the floor surface in the cellar and the temperature regime of the room from above.

If the floor in the basement is not insulated, then the air there will be cold, and with it the ceiling. Consequently, the moisture that comes in portions with air into the cellar from the upper room when the hatch is opened will condense on the cold ceiling. If the upper room is unheated, then in winter drops in the basement will form especially intensively.

In this situation, there are two ways out, which depend on the functionality of the room:

• if necessary, keep the room cold, you need to equip the ceiling with insulation and vapor barrier (if necessary, you need to perform vapor protection on the walls);
• if the temperature rises in the cellar, then the floor must be insulated.

Ceiling insulation and vapor barrier

As a rule, the height of the ceilings in the basement does not favor thermal insulation. wireframe Therefore, it is most advisable to use foam plastic 3-5 cm thick as a heater.

Important! Warming wooden ceilings inside is prohibited by SNiP.

The material is purchased in an amount equal to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling of the room plus 10%. On the concrete ceiling perform optimal technological marking of the location of foam fragments - the layout should not contain small fragments of insulation that require individual fastening.

Fastening foam sheets to the ceiling is carried out using special plastic fungi, bursting with anchors. Each sheet of insulation is attached to the ceiling with five fungi - in the corners and in the center.

The foam plastic is applied with one hand to the base at the installation site, and concrete is drilled through it in the center with the other hand to the required depth. After fixing the sheet with a central fungus, drilling and fixing in the corners are carried out.

On top of the thermal insulation, a vapor barrier made of isospan-B is installed using an isospan-K or isospan-K + self-adhesive tape without a ventilation gap between the film and the foam plastic - this species insulation is not hygroscopic. The vapor barrier is laid with a smooth side towards the insulation, the outer vapor barrier layer with a three-dimensional structure will help to retain condensate on the surface, followed by evaporation and removal of vapors through the hood.

This operation minimizes the influence of the temperature regime of the room from above on the air temperature and moisture condensation in the cellar.

Floor insulation

A cold floor can also be the reason why on the ceiling in the cellar present condensate. If the upper room is heated, then the insulation of the cellar floor is also effective measure fight against wet surfaces of the basement, moreover, up to the insulation of the ceiling, but the air temperature in the basement will inevitably rise.

Wooden floor with insulation

The concrete floor of the cellar is waterproofed with one layer of bituminous mastic, with two layers of dense polyethylene laid on a fresh coating, laid with overlapping strips on top of each other and on the walls up to 10 cm.

After drying, the mastic is installed on the floor wooden logs impregnated with hydrophobic and antiseptic composition. Between the lags, sheets of ordinary foam are tightly laid, after which a plank is mounted flooring also from wood with pre-impregnation.

Performing a screed with insulation

To clean concrete base lay two layers of polyethylene in the manner indicated above. A day later, sheets of extruded types of polyethylene or expanded polystyrene are laid end-to-end on top of the polyethylene, the seams between which are also filled with bituminous mastic using a narrow spatula. Two more layers of polyethylene are laid on top of the thermal insulation - using the same technology as under the insulation. After the mastic has dried, a reinforcing mesh of plastic fittings with a diameter of 6-8 mm with a cell size of 10x10 or 12x12 cm. It is easy to tie the mesh yourself using ordinary knitting wire or special nylon clamps. Flat pebbles are placed under the connected mesh so that a gap of 2-3 cm is formed between the reinforcement and the film, after which a cement-expanded clay mortar screed is made 5-7 cm thick, and a week later - a leveling screed from a cement-sand mixture.

A completely dry floor has a uniform light gray color, but the mortar gains 70% strength in about a week after laying.

Conclusion

There is no single answer to the question of what to do to eliminate condensate droplets that constantly form or periodically appear on the ceiling in the cellar - there may be several solutions. At the same time, in some situation, a single event can be effective, and in another case, only a set of measures will bring success. To remove moisture from the ceiling, which not only drips onto everything located in the cellar and thereby spoils the utensils, but is also a factor harmful to health, you need to start with one event. The choice of this action depends on the analysis of the situation in the basement and outside its outer walls. Most often, there is no need to perform the entire list of the above works - success is achieved after the first or second operation (you should start with a simpler one). But, even if, with the change of season, condensate forms again in the basement, and additional measures have to be taken, you should know that the moisture that appears in the cellar is a removable factor and after the next procedure it will inevitably disappear for a long time.

The main gist of the article:

1. Moisture condensation in the basement is an extremely negative factor that negatively affects health, the condition of building envelopes and the contents of the room.
2. Condensation on the ceiling of the cellar is the result of flaws in the construction of the house.
3. You can eliminate moisture condensation in the basement yourself.
4. If moisture condensation was not foreseen during construction, then it is possible to get rid of condensate later.
5. The choice of measures to eliminate moisture condensation - after analyzing the situation.
6. The chosen procedure should not change the functionality of the room.
7. From several supposedly effective measures, one should choose the least expensive, go from simple to complex.

Any living space requires maintaining an optimal level of humidity. Particular attention should be paid to controlling the level of humidity in basements and cellars of garages. To do this, they equip good ventilation and waterproofing. But what to do if the water in the cellar still appeared? In this case, the owners of the garage should immediately take measures to dry the cellar. How to do it right, and what are the ways to dry the cellars from moisture - read our article.

Why does moisture accumulate in the cellar

main reason high humidity in the cellar of the garage is poor waterproofing or its complete absence. Due to mistakes made during the construction of a garage with a cellar, moisture gradually begins to accumulate in the room, and condensation appears on the walls. As a result of high humidity, an ugly plaque (fungus) appears on the walls. This phenomenon is unacceptable for cellars in which food is stored, therefore it is important to carry out high-quality drying of the room in a timely manner.

Ways to dry the cellar in the garage

The constant accumulation of moisture in the cellar negatively affects the condition of the entire structure. To dry the cellar in the garage, you can use several methods. The most effective of these are candles and a brazier (metal stove, photo 1).

Important! Before you start drying the cellar, you need to carry out a good audit in it, remove the shelves, take out the interfering equipment and supplies upstairs. When all the debris is removed from it, the room is dried with outside air to remove excess moisture, and then a method is chosen to normalize the humidity level.

There are two most famous ways to deal with excessive moisture in the basement of the garage.

Attention! If there is a lot of water in the basement, then before drying it must be pumped out with a pump, or scooped out manually. It is important to determine what is the source of water in the cellar. Possibly poor insulation. But it may also be that the room was built next to the spring. In this case, you need to divert the water to the side with a pump and equip the cellar with good waterproofing.

Arrangement of waterproofing in a damp basement

In order for the drying of the basement in the garage to be effective, it is necessary to take care of the arrangement of the external and internal insulation. You can create it with your own hands, without involving specialists. You can purchase materials for external and internal drainage at a hardware store.

Arrangement external drainage(scheme 3) in the cellar involves the creation of a drainage system excess moisture outside the premises. It is best to equip the exterior at the stage of building a garage, but you can perform waterproofing in an already finished room if the humidity level increases greatly. Creation principle external waterproofing as follows:

• A trench is dug along the outer perimeter of the building (it should be 50 cm lower than the floor level in the cellar);
• Drainages are installed along the entire length of the dug trench in the form of plastic pipes (for them, wells must be prepared in advance to a depth of the first layer of sand). top drains must be covered with a metal mesh (this will prevent contamination of the entire system);
• A geotextile waterproofing material is laid at the bottom of the trench (it must also go onto the walls);
• The finished drainage channel is covered with crushed stone to a height of 40 cm. The crushed stone layer should be larger than the floor line in the cellar;
• The embankment is well rammed.

Scheme 3

internal drainage(Scheme 4) will dry the cellar much faster. For its arrangement, the following materials are needed: geotextile waterproofing, crushed stone and gravel, drainage pipes, drainage pump, PVC tank, sand. Along the perimeter of the room, pipes are laid for collecting excess water. The diameter of these pipes can be different, but it is best to choose designs with a diameter of 110 mm. The arrangement of the internal drainage system in the basement of the garage is best done at the construction stage. Otherwise, you will have to dismantle the floor in order to lay all the structural elements of the system.

Internal drainage in the garage cellar is laid in accordance with the following scheme:

• They dig a trench about 50 cm deep around the entire perimeter of the room;
• The bottom is well tamped, then a geoseptic is laid on it (this material perfectly absorbs moisture, thereby performing the function of waterproofing);
• A layer of fine-grained material (gravel, crushed stone) 20 cm thick is laid in the trench;
• Pipes are laid on top of the embankment, maintaining an angle of inclination of 3 mm;
• A layer of gravel is again poured over the laid pipes, but already of an average fraction. The material is well rammed and a layer of geotextile is laid on it;
• The final action in this case will be backfilling the trench with sand and soil (taken out during digging), careful tamping.

Scheme 4

There is another method for effectively drying the cellar in the basement - injection protection(scheme 5). This method one of the most expensive, but at the same time it is the most effective. When using this method, the waterproofing in the cellar is equipped using injections. Naturally, specialized equipment is required to perform such work. The injection drying method is recommended for garages built of concrete, brick and foam blocks. The injection drying technology looks like this:

• Around the perimeter damp basement holes are drilled with a diameter of 1.5 to 4 mm. A distance of 20-80 cm must be observed between adjacent holes. In each case, the parameter will be different and depend on the level of humidity, wall thickness and soil characteristics;
• Special elements are inserted into the prepared holes, through which the pump is injected liquid waterproofing or polymers;
• The advantages of such waterproofing are obvious. There is no need to dismantle the cladding from the walls, breakage building structures. In addition, work on the arrangement of waterproofing in this way can be carried out in any weather, at any time of the year.

If your basement is damp, then it is fraught with many problems that are not always easy to get rid of. Very often, due to excessive humidity, the insulation properties of floors and walls deteriorate, and the strength of materials also decreases. Even at the construction stage, work should be carried out to eliminate the likelihood of condensation in the room, since getting rid of dampness in the basement, otherwise, will not be so easy.

If you want to remove dampness from the basement or cellar, you must first find the cause of its appearance. Moisture can enter the basement from the street or simply condense on the inner surfaces of the walls and ceiling. Often the main source of dampness is obvious, but sometimes it is not so easy to find, and in such cases, homeowners hire specialists to find it. They determine the temperature and humidity in different places of the room, evaluate the tightness of the basement, and find places where air from the street enters.

Water usually enters the room through microcracks and wall defects, as well as due to improperly mounted engineering communications. If the basement is damp, then Special attention should be drawn to the blind area, which is probably not in the best condition. In addition, if trees grow near the foundation, then water can penetrate into the room due to their roots. You should also consider the option of high pressure groundwater.

When the source of dampness is within

If dampness in the basement is formed due to condensate, then in order to remove it, it is necessary to carry out work on the device of high-quality ventilation system. As a rule, it is enough to use only two pipes (exhaust and supply), which should be placed in different corners of the room and at different levels.

Pipes in the basement require special attention.

In large basements, natural ventilation is often not enough. Therefore, you can make a forced system with your own hands. In this case, a controlled ventilation device is assumed, with the help of which different time year, it will be possible to set a certain temperature regime in the basement with your own hands.

In cases where the basement is located water pipes, it is necessary to do their thermal insulation (it is best to use polystyrene foam or any other suitable material). Pipe insulation is also necessary if it is necessary to dry the basement in a short time.

It is necessary to carry out the procedure for draining the basement after the work to eliminate the source of dampness is completed.

When the source of dampness is outside

If you have determined that the source of dampness is precisely located outside, then several options for the problem should be considered: high level groundwater, atmospheric precipitation, the so-called capillary rise of moisture.

The option of carrying out work will depend on the specific source of moisture, as well as on the level of moisture in the walls in the basement. When the humidity level inside the room is insignificant (no more than 10%), it is enough to do the following with your own hands:

• take off old plaster, clean and rinse the walls;
• treat them with antiseptic compounds;
• install a high-quality waterproofing layer;
• perform the finishing touches;
• dry the room well.

In this case, you will have a dry basement on for a long time. When the walls are significantly damp, additional work will be required, which will include the installation of an external waterproofing layer.

In addition, outside work includes:

• preparatory work (cleaning, priming, strengthening the surface);
• creation of a vertical waterproofing layer (any suitable materials can be used);
• high-quality blind area.

Under certain circumstances it may be necessary to additional work, which will allow you to get rid of moisture in the room, as well as eliminate the cause of condensation.

If you have even the slightest doubt about the source of dampness or choice waterproofing material to eliminate it, you need to consult with specialists.

Cut-off (horizontal) waterproofing

If the formation of dampness and condensate in the basement occurs due to the capillary rise of moisture, then it is necessary to make high-quality horizontal waterproofing with your own hands. In this case, one of two methods of arranging the insulating layer can be used: using a roll or coating waterproofing.

Rolled waterproofing is required to overlap on the foundation. The material will fully repeat the shape of the surface, and will also provide a high level of insulation of the room. No additional coats are required, although some homeowners prefer to make 2-3 new coats so that they do not have to worry later.

Horizontal waterproofing of the foundation during construction.

Coating waterproofing must be applied on a horizontal surface. It is often recommended to make multiple layers to provide a high level of moisture protection. Modern mixtures, sold as coating waterproofing, penetrate into the structure of the material, filling all cracks and pores in it, which makes it possible to create a high-quality waterproof layer. Although the durability of such insulation is lower than that of rolled insulation.

Vertical waterproofing

Often devices horizontal waterproofing is not enough, so many experts additionally recommend considering the option of creating a vertical waterproofing layer. Vertical waterproofing can be pasting, coating type, as well as screen or penetrating action.

1. Pasting waterproofing is represented by materials made of film. This type of material is glued to the surface. If earlier roofing felt and roofing material acted as such materials, today they are gradually being replaced by more modern insulators that can provide long-term and high-quality protection. At the same time, doing such waterproofing is quite labor-intensive, so for work, if possible, it is best to hire specialists. Additionally, this type of waterproofing is protected with geotextile materials.
2. Coating waterproofing is arranged using mastics and special solutions. A few decades ago, people used the most common bitumen for coating waterproofing, but this did not allow them to get a completely dry basement. Today on the market are innovative materials(e.g. bituminous mastics, synthetic resins, polymer compositions etc.), which are easy to apply with your own hands and are able to provide excellent surface waterproofing.
3. Penetrating waterproofing is presented today in the form cement mortar, which additionally add some modifiers. After the walls and ceiling of the basement are treated with such a solution, the pores of the material are significantly narrowed, as a result of which the water resistance of the structure increases several times. At the same time, there is no reduction in the vapor permeability of the surface. Such insulation is quite durable and of high quality.
4. Screen waterproofing is relevant only if groundwater is actively acting on the outside. For the installation of an insulating layer of this type, it is usually used clay castle. Of course, now on the market you can find more modern materials (for example, the same geotextiles or bentonite mats). By the way, when saturated with water, bentonite will increase in size by 10-20 times, which will provide a high level of protection against moisture. It is one of the most effective waterproofing materials.

The choice of one or another type of waterproofing layer device is individual for each country house. Doing something without having the necessary experience is not worth it. If the exact cause of dampness in the basement is not clarified, installing an insulating layer will not solve the problem.

vertical waterproofing.

Forced dehumidification

If you were able to identify the source of dampness and eliminate it, then at the end of everything you need to perform the procedure for draining the basement. Dry basement can be done in any way (using fire, natural or forced ventilation, special devices).

In any case, when the basement has been exposed to moisture for a long time, it needs to be dried to make it suitable for further use. Many people prefer special dehumidifiers for basements. These devices will help you get rid of dampness after waterproofing works. They can be used if necessary. For example, this is very important if you have a storage room for vegetables, a bathhouse, a sauna or any other room in your basement, due to the functions of which moisture may appear.

You don’t have to do anything - just turn on the dehumidifier and leave it running exactly until the humidity level in your basement returns to normal. Such devices allow you to dry the basement quickly and efficiently.