Waterproofing the strip foundation of a residential building is necessary to prevent moisture from concrete and reinforcing elements included in the foundation structure from sedimentary and groundwater. Wet concrete provokes the destruction of the foundation when the frozen water expands in the capillaries of the concrete tape and leads to corrosion of steel reinforcement, reducing the strength properties of the base of the house. The owners of individual buildings are able to independently correctly perform the work on arranging the waterproofing of the foundation of their home, having certain knowledge in this area.
The destructive effect of moisture on the foundation of a building occurs when water interacts with the materials of the foundation structure. The porous structure of concrete, saturated with capillaries, contributes to the constant absorption of moisture from the environment and groundwater. In order to make the tape base of a residential building as protected as possible from a humid environment, it is necessary, in accordance with (formerly SNiP 2.03.11-85), to ensure its hydroprotection by methods of primary and secondary corrosion protection (clauses 4.5, 4.6 and 4.7). Foundation waterproofing belongs to the category of secondary protection, based on the use of protective coatings or treatment with special compounds.
Scheme of waterproofing strip foundation.
Builders with their own hands or with the involvement of specialized organizations carry out activities for applying waterproofing materials to the foundation, taking into account external factors affecting the foundation of the house:
- Atmospheric precipitation and melt water;
- groundwater.
To guarantee the protection of the foundation from the penetration of sedimentary and melt water, it is enough to make a high-quality blind area around the perimeter of the entire building. To implement hydroprotection from ground moisture, it is necessary to take into account a set of initial data, among which the main ones are:
- Type of groundwater near the building;
- The depth of occurrence of groundwater passing near the construction;
- Heterogeneity of soils in the construction area;
- Purpose and planned operation of the house.
Let us consider how these factors influence the choice of the foundation waterproofing method.
groundwater type
Groundwater has a direct impact on the formation of the groundwater level (GWL) in the area of the construction site and on the degree of soil moisture near the foundation. The diagram below shows the distribution pattern of the two main types of groundwater in soil:
- Verkhovodki are local foci of water formation that have a seasonal nature of existence. Verkhovodka lies near the earth's surface, is formed and exists only during high humidity of the environment, disappearing during dry periods;
- Groundwater lying near the surface of the earth and having a territorial regional distribution. The groundwater level is characterized by susceptibility to seasonal fluctuations.
As mentioned above, to protect against perched water, it is enough to make a good blind area and storm water. Protection from groundwater will depend on the depth of their occurrence. This dependency is discussed below.
Groundwater depth
"Recommendations for the design of waterproofing of underground parts of buildings and structures" of the Central Research Institute of Industrial Buildings, M., 1996 (amended in 2009), determined that the waterproofing of structures must be carried out above the maximum groundwater level by at least 0.5 m (p. 1.8 and 1.9). Since the average value of fluctuations in the level of HW in many regions of the Russian Federation, according to the results of geological surveys, is taken within 1.0 m, then in order to guarantee the protection of the foundation from ground moisture, it is recommended to adhere to this indicator as a reference point when choosing a waterproofing of the base of the building, depending on the depth of HW . In particular:
- At the groundwater level, less than 1 m below the base of the foundation, it is necessary to waterproof the foundation;
- If the GWL is deeper than the foundation by more than 1 m, the hydroprotection can be omitted.
It is necessary to take into account the possibility of increasing GWL as a result of infrastructure development in the region. As well as the maximum GWL for past seasons.
With a high level of GW exceeding the lower level of the foundation sole, in addition to waterproofing, it is necessary to additionally make local drainage to remove moisture from the foundation, as prescribed by "Design and installation of foundations and foundations of buildings and structures" (Chapter 11).
Soil heterogeneity
The heterogeneity of soils with different chemical composition leads to chemical aggression of groundwater in relation to concrete in the foundation, up to its destruction (concrete corrosion). The use of special corrosion-resistant concrete of the W4 grade is required when pouring the foundation and high-reliability hydraulic protection from materials resistant to aggressive environments.
Purpose and planned operation of the house
In the presence of basements equipped with their own hands for functional purposes such as a gym, workshop, etc. increased requirements are imposed on the reliability of waterproofing in order to prevent the deterioration of the microclimate in these rooms.
Properly equipped waterproofing of the strip foundation of a residential building requires compliance with three basic principles for constructing a waterproofing system for the foundations of buildings of any purpose:
- Continuity of each waterproofing layer along the entire perimeter of the waterproofing;
- Installing a waterproofing layer only on the side exposed to moisture, i.e. foundation waterproofing should be carried out outside, but in no case inside the basement;
- Preliminary special preparation of the outer surface of the foundation for the subsequent application of waterproofing material.
Types of waterproofing strip foundation
According to clause 5.1.2 of the set of rules (formerly SNiP 2.03.11-85), waterproofing of the concrete structure is provided by:
- Lacquer and mastic coatings;
- Coating and plaster coatings;
- adhesive insulation;
- Impregnation of the surface layer of the structure or other surface treatment methods.
With regard to strip foundations, taking into account modern technologies for applying waterproofing, vertical waterproofing is divided according to the method of installation into the following types:
- Coating (painting);
- built-up;
- Plastering;
- Stick-on;
- injection;
- impregnating;
- Sprayable.
Coating (painting) waterproofing
Coating technology waterproofing is based on the use of bitumen and bitumen-polymer emulsions and mastics with the formation of waterproof films on the foundation surface.
Coating waterproofing protects the foundation from the penetration of capillary ground moisture in soils of low humidity when groundwater is removed 1.5-2 meters below the basement floor level. In the presence of hydrostatic head, it is allowed to use coating technology in the following versions:
- Bituminous mastic is used for pressure not higher than 2 m;
- Bitumen-polymer mastic - for a pressure of not more than 5 m.
Mastics are applied in 2-4 layers. The thickness of the coating hydroprotection depends on the depth of the strip base and is:
- 2 mm - for a base with a laying depth of up to 3 meters;
- 2-4 mm - for a foundation with a laying depth of 3 to 5 meters.
The advantages of coated bitumen protection are as follows:
- Relatively low cost;
- Lack of special requirements for the qualification of performers;
- High elasticity;
- Excellent adhesion.
Among the shortcomings, a short service life should be noted - already 6 years after the insulation loses its elasticity. The waterproofing layer is covered with cracks, which reduces the overall level of waterproofing. To increase the shelf life of the insulation, polymeric additives are added to provide improved performance of the waterproofing coating.
The technology for applying mastic is simple. A special primer is applied to the previously prepared surface with a roller or brush, which ensures deep penetration into the foundation material. After the primer dries, bituminous mastic is applied in layers.
Fused and glued waterproofing
These technologies refer to the methods of waterproofing with rolled materials. They are used as independent measures for waterproofing, and as an addition to the do-it-yourself coating method. When using glued waterproofing, a traditional roofing material is used, which is fixed on the foundation surface treated with a bituminous primer.
With glued waterproofing, the thickness of the waterproofing layer reaches 5 mm. 2-3 layers are allowed.
Roofing felt can be fixed with special adhesive mastics in several layers with an overlap of 15-20 cm. Of modern materials, instead of roofing felt, rolled waterproofing materials are used - TechnoNIKOL, Technoelast and other materials for fusing on a polymer-based polyester, which increases the wear resistance of the coating. The service life of such waterproofing is 50 years.
Plaster waterproofing
Laying waterproofing with a plaster method is identical to do-it-yourself plastering of walls along lighthouses. For insulation, mixtures of moisture-resistant components such as polymer concrete and hydro concrete are used. The minimum thickness of the applied layer must be 20 mm.
The advantages of the plaster method include the cheapness of materials and ease of implementation.
Of the shortcomings, it should be noted:
- Average level of moisture resistance;
- Short service life, after 5 years cracks appear through which water can seep.
Injection waterproofing
The injection method of hydroprotection is based on pumping under pressure special polymer mixtures-injectors into the pores of the foundation. For injection technology, materials are produced on a mineral or polyurethane basis, which are close in density to ordinary water. If you use polyurethane-based compounds, then at least 1.5 liters will be required for waterproofing each square meter, while acrylic-based mixtures will require much less. Injection perforation is performed with conventional perforators or drills, the hole sizes (from 25 to 32 mm) are determined by the diameters of the injection packers and capsules. Upon completion of the injection process, the perforation is sealed with a cement-sand mixture of the usual composition.
Impregnation waterproofing
This technique is based on the impregnation of concrete with special organic binders that fill the concrete capillaries and form an antihygroscopic layer up to 30-40 mm deep in the concrete.
The technology of spraying a waterproofing material requires the use of a special spray gun. So far, the cost of materials is high, but their use is economically justified for waterproofing foundations of complex configuration, which are difficult to process in other ways.
Drainage as an auxiliary measure
The arrangement of drainage systems is designed to remove excess moisture from the foundation system of the building at a high level of groundwater. According to clause 11.1.15 of the set of rules, drainages are divided into general and local. Their use in combination with waterproofing allows you to protect the foundation from the penetrating effects of ground moisture.
Do-it-yourself waterproofing of a strip foundation is a complex technological process that requires a clear understanding of each stage of the entire event. Only in this case, a long period of trouble-free operation of the house will be ensured.
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To pour or not to pour, that is the question! This is how one well-known saying can be paraphrased when a forum member undertakes to fill in a tape without using a removable formwork.
Pouring a strip foundation into the ground
In a heated debate about whether it is possible to pour a strip foundation into the ground or whether it needs formwork, many copies have been broken. But it's better to see once than hear a hundred times . Our forum member with a nickname Radomir999 after much deliberation and reading the recommendations of users, FORUMHOUSE decided to build a private house from warm ceramics with a strip foundation of the building directly into the ground. And, as subsequent events showed, he never regretted it!
Radomir999:
- Having studied the information on our forum, initially I chose this method of building this type of foundation. We will pour the tape for 1 time with factory-made concrete of the M250 brand, in a wooden formwork. Next, a strip foundation will be carried out in the ground (bituminous coating + fusing of glass isol).
In the opinion of the members of the forum, correctly, according to technology, delivered and then removed will always remain a “business” board. And in the future it will be possible to put it on the subfloor or roof sheathing.
But the father of our forum member did not want to spend money (about 50-60 thousand rubles) on formwork from boards 40-50 mm thick.
Radomir999:
- Together with my father, we walked around the neighbors in the settlement, asked about the types of foundations. It turned out that everyone is pouring concrete without formwork at all! Polls are practiced pouring tape into a trench, and houses have been standing for 5-10 years.
The forum member decided to make a fixed formwork from XPS in the ground. And from above, above the ground, I planned the installation of a low formwork from boards for the basement.
However, difficulties arose at this stage.
Radomir999:
- I started looking for topics about how to pour tape on the surface of the earth, but I didn’t find anything sensible. Everyone categorically advised to build high-quality wooden formwork. It was also suggested, as an option, to pour concrete in layers (for 2-3 times): when the previous layer hardens, disassemble the formwork, raise these boards up for the next layer, and so on to the top of the foundation. But this option did not suit me either.
Because pouring concrete under the tape at a time is the best solution of all.
We already have one on our forum. She helped our forum member draw up a detailed plan for the construction of a strip foundation. After all, careful planning is already half the success of the whole business.
Radomir999:
– Topikstarter this topic came up with a good option. It was here that I saw the first drawings and options for casting a strip foundation into the ground in 2 versions: with roofing felt and with foam plastic.
But, according to our user, roofing felt in the ground at the base of the foundation tape would still not be an ideal option, because. the walls of the strip foundation would not turn out to be even. Therefore, he leaned towards extruded polystyrene foam, despite the fact that it is 2.5 to 3 times more expensive than regular foam.
Radomir999:
– Comparing the prices of XPS with the prices of formwork with a height of 1.9 m from boards with a thickness of 50 mm, my father and I found out that XPS will cost us less.
Also, when using EPPS, the walls of the strip foundation will be smooth and will not cling to the ground in the spring when heaving. And the foundation will be immediately insulated.
Having carefully considered all the details regarding the construction of the strip foundation, Radomir999 came up with the following building plan:
Pouring concrete without formwork
1. Dig a trench by hand.
The walls of the ditch will have maximum smoothness and will be even for easy installation of XPS sheets in the ground.
2. Lay sand 20 cm at the bottom of the trench. Pre-moisten the sand, and then ram it.
So we level the bottom of the pit.
3. Lay a 200 micron polyethylene film in the trench. Glue the joints of the film with adhesive tape.
4. On top of the polyethylene, lay roofing material on the bottom of the trench, also at the overlap joints.
5. Then vertically insert sheets of XPS 50 mm thick and drive them into the ground with nails.
6. Reinforce the tape.
7. Install formwork from boards 15 cm wide, 25 mm thick, above the ground - for the basement of the foundation.
8. Insert XPS sheets horizontally inside the wooden formwork, fastening with self-tapping screws from the outside.
The dimensions of the XPS sheets are 120 cm x 60 cm x 5 cm. Therefore, it is easy to place the first row in the ground vertically, and the second and upper row horizontally.
From our article you will learn how to
Radomir999:
- For clarity, the dimensions of the perimeter of my strip foundation are as follows: 11.6 x 11.6 m, there is an average load-bearing wall. Height 180 cm (130 in the ground, 50 above the ground - base), tape width 50 cm. GWL = 5.5 m. Heaving soil (40 cm of the upper layer - black earth, then loam, very plastic clay). The depth of soil freezing is 1.6 m. Groundwater does not disturb, there is a perch in the spring.
Pouring the strip foundation into the ground: according to step instruction
1. Foundation tape marking
Radomir999:
- To mark the walls of the trench, you will need: strong threads, a tape measure longer than the diagonal of the perimeter of the house, a plumb line; long self-tapping screws with a large noticeable hat.
Then the place on the site is determined where you want to dig a trench. Install 2 boards at the corners. Then small nails are hammered into them, to which ropes are tied. Sticks are hammered into the ground with the removal of the corners so that they do not interfere with your further digging.
For accuracy of measurements, calculate what the diagonal of your perimeter is according to the Pythagorean theorem. Then, with a plumb line, mark several points on the ground of the line you need. And stick the screws under the stretched rope with the removal around the corner, not far from the board.
2. trench digging
Radomir999:
– Father himself dug two walls under the strip foundation in two weeks the buildings . The trench walls turned out to be good. The difference is especially noticeable compared to the walls where the tractor was digging.
Also, as in the construction of the basement, the tractor should not dig a little to the bottom of the trench, so as not to disturb the parent soil. And you can follow the depth of the structure on the board, on which you first need to make a mark on the depth of your trench and, lowering it, check the depth of the dig.
The trench must be made wider than the thickness of the foundation + EPS by 5 cm.
Radomir999:
- After the tractor digs a trench, I advise using a hydraulic level, starting from the lowest corner of the perimeter, determine the "zero" at all other corners. At these points, you will screw in the self-tapping screw and pull the ropes. This will help you level the bottom of the trench.
Sand for laying on the bottom of the trench Radomir999 advises moistening on the street and laying it on the bottom of the trench already moistened. This is necessary in order to prevent thinner and moisture from appearing at the bottom of the trench.
After that, you can ram it with a vibrating plate.
Radomir999:
– We didn’t have a vibrating plate, we rammed a pre-sawn oak chock with my father. We have a sand cushion of 20 cm.
By and large, a pillow is harmful, and if you have an ideal bottom and corners in terms of level, then professionals advise you to do without it.
3. We line polyethylene in the trench
A sufficient thickness of polyethylene for this purpose is 150 microns, but Radomir999 laid 200 microdistrict:
- If possible, it is better to take a roll with a larger width so as not to glue the joints with tape. If you're going to tape it, be sure to tape it on both sides! We glued with one, internal, and this was our mistake.
Condensation flows under the polyethylene in the heat. If the joints are assembled so that the condensate enters the pocket, then in these places the adhesive tape will peel off and condensate with dirt will flow. Polyethylene also maintains moisture in the trench and on hot, sultry summer days, the walls of the trench do not dry out. If they dry out, they begin to crumble, crumble, there are large cracks and the wall may collapse.
4. We line the roofing material to the bottom, like a trough.
It is important to remember that you should not leave the rolls in the heat, because. the bitumen will stick together, this will affect its quality and the roll will be difficult to open.
5. Installing XPS sheets.
We put the sheets vertically in level, joining their groove into the groove. Then we nail them to the ground with nails 20 to 30 cm long (depending on the unevenness of the trench walls).
Radomir999:
– For nails of 20 cm, we used washers. One sheet took 6 nails. At the corners, you can fix it with corners (home-made) with bolts and nuts.
After installing the bottom row of EPS, backfilling with sand can be applied. Radomir999 advises not to save on sand.
This is not correct according to SNiPs, and if it rains and water gets behind the XPS sheets, the clay will swell and squeeze out the sheets.
Force majeure
Despite the detailed plan, nature has made its own adjustments. Instead of the promised Indian summer from Moscow to Cheboksary, where our hero lives, there were prolonged heavy rains. This could lead to the collapse of the walls of the trench. And the carefully leveled bottom, before the eyes of the forum member, gradually turned into a viscous slurry, on which the foundation cannot be poured. It was necessary to urgently come up with something in order to save the fruits of their labors in any way!
Radomir999:
- It rained, and water sometimes got inside the trench, in addition, the roofing material began to crumple. On the polyethylene with which we decided to cover the trench, puddles of water began to collect, into which worms fell. Birds sat down to peck at them and tore polyethylene with their beaks. We glued the torn places with adhesive tape, but water seeped through the adhesive tape in some places. Therefore, we decided to pour a concrete pad 10 cm thick at the bottom of the trench.
6. Foundation reinforcement
When reinforcing, it is necessary to remember the main points of SNiPs:
1) The protective layer of concrete must be at least 5 cm.
This means that the reinforcement should not fit closely to the walls of the trench. On the sides of the trench and on top, the reinforcement should recede from the edge of the strip foundation by 5 cm. From the bottom - 7 cm. In the absence of a concrete cushion and at least 3.5 cm if there is one.
2) When the height of the MZLF (shallow foundation) is more than 70 cm, it is necessary to lay not only the lower and upper rows of longitudinal reinforcement, but also the middle rows, which do not carry loads, but are constructive.
It is enough to make the middle rows of longitudinal reinforcement from reinforcement d = 12 mm. If the wall is more than 3 m in length, then only along the side faces of the strip foundation. That is, for the middle rows of the longitudinal, 2 rods from the 12th reinforcement are sufficient.
3) To anchor the reinforcement in the adjacent adjoining wall, its ends must be bent or additional L-shaped corners should be used to strengthen the anchoring.
7. Plinth formwork
Radomir999:
- At the forum, it is advised to install formwork from boards with a thickness of 40-50 mm. Experts recommend such boards for everyone: for those who make the entire height of the strip foundation of 1.5-2 meters, and for those who, like me, carry out "formwork work" t Only for the base, i.e. for the above-ground part of the foundation. We took the 25-ku and never regretted it. The main thing is to put in the structure more often supporting triangles and crossbars. Ours was 1 meter apart. The height of the formwork is preferably 5 cm (at least) above the edge of the foundation so that the concrete does not splash.
8. We install the top row of EPPS inside the formwork
9. Installing sleeves in a trench for future sewer and water pipes
Radomir999:
- We bought a plastic red pipe with a diameter of 200 mm and a length of 1 meter. There are 2 sleeves from it, where the sewerage will pass.
Need to think ahead : how and where the sewer will run, under what slope the pipes will go, what adapters will be installed.
And here are some secrets:
- The sleeves must be 2 times wider than the sewer pipes;
- Pipes from the kitchen, shower, bathroom d = 50 mm are laid with a slope of not more than 3 cm per 1 meter of pipe;
- Pipes from the toilet bowl and the outlet pipe to the septic tank d = 110 mm are laid with a slope of not more than 2 cm per 1 meter of pipe;
- Make all transitions from horizontal to vertical with corners of 2x45 degrees or 3x30 degrees;
- The sewer pipe should go straight to the septic tank.
10. Pouring concrete
Radomir999:
- We poured a solution of concrete grade M250, 48 cubic meters. By this time, the rains had so washed away the ground around the trench that, even while working in galoshes and boots, we were bogged down in the mud. We could forget about the concrete-laden mixers that would drive up to our trench, we had to go the hard way and order a concrete pump.
When pouring concrete with a concrete pump Radomir999 advises:
1. In advance, in writing, agree with the concrete supplier on the continuous delivery of concrete;
This will help to collect a penalty from the concrete supplier company if the mixers are late.
2. It is required to buy for all builders who will be near the concrete pump supply pipe: safety glasses, cheap disposable surgical bandages, rubber gloves;
Radomir999:
- The jet of concrete is so strong that splashes of the concrete mixture fly into the eyes, mouth, hands dry, fingernails hurt.
3. Putting the concrete pump truck with its back to the approaching mixers will speed up the work.
Radomir999:
- Because cold weather began, we decided to play it safe and ordered an anti-frost additive for concrete. As taught on the forum, I ordered 49 cubic meters, that is, my calculated volume + 1 m3 in reserve, in case of force majeure. As a result, exactly 48 cubic meters were poured, and after pouring, a small area in front of the house was concreted from the remains. Here you have a ready-made platform for the entrance of the car!
FORUMHOUSE users can find out all the details and features, read a detailed and visual story of our forum member about how he is. And our video talks in detail about how to build a basement in conditions of high groundwater.
The destructive action of moisture is prevented by the waterproofing of the strip foundation during the entire life of the house. The materials used, the methods of their application, the durability of the protection may be different.
The choice is made taking into account the whole complex of conditions of the construction site - geology, climate, building density, neighboring buildings.
Protection from natural factors
The engineering-geological study of the site, together with the characteristics of the climatic zone, will set the magnitude of seasonal fluctuations in the groundwater level (GWL).
The depth of occurrence is conditionally divided into two values:
- Above 2 m (high);
- Below 2 m (low).
During floods, heavy snowmelt, after heavy rains, the water level can rise up to 2 meters higher in the ground. Seasonal fluctuations should be taken into account in the most unfavorable values.
The influence of water bodies is felt at a distance of more than 1 km from the place where the facility was built. The necessary waterproofing of the strip foundation with your own hands is already carried out if the distance from its lower boundary to groundwater does not exceed 1 m.
Perspective accounting of changes
An important step in choosing waterproofing before starting work is to make an adjustment for the future, look a little further after the house is built. The hydraulic component can be affected by:
- Increased pressure on the support due to the dense building of the site. The water will rise;
- Long-term cycle of changes in reservoir water saturation;
- Changing the drainage system of neighboring areas (including the arrangement of water collectors, dams, wells);
- Violation of the movement of high groundwater (creation of a monolithic obstacle to the flow in the ground on slopes) due to the new construction of houses with buried strip foundations.
Types of waterproofing
Moisture to the surface of the filled monolith comes from above (precipitation), from the sides, from below. It is necessary to make a barrier to absorption in two directions:
- horizontal. Rolled materials cut off the capillary rise from the foundation to the walls, from the pillow to concrete. The blind area must be made to prevent the infiltration of water from the surface of the soil to the concrete of the outer part of the foundation. For this purpose, a screed with a slope of 2 ÷ 3 ° should protrude beyond the roof cut by at least 0.3 m. .
- Vertical. Prevents infiltration of groundwater into the foundation structure. Capillary insulation prevents water from entering the concrete, non-pressure insulation protects against seasonal fluctuations in water saturation of the layers, and anti-pressure insulation prevents the penetration of groundwater.
Doubts about the need for insulation arise at the stage following the pouring of unburied tapes directly into a trench dug in dry earth. The presence of a cushion provides a gap in front of rising drops of moisture. If the solution is placed in a form covered with a film, the foundation of the built house will stand for a long time.
Horizontal waterproofing should be done according to SNiP 3.04.01-87. The procedure for waterproofing work for the foundation of a house is established by SNiP 3.04.01-87, SNiP 2.03.11-85, SNiP 3.04.03-85
Separation by method of application
Depending on the consistency of the material, the application method can be:
- coating;
- spraying;
- pasting;
- impregnation;
Methods performed by certified specialists:
- injection;
- shielding.
If the capillary rise of moisture prevails on the surface of the house located underground, then coating, spraying, bitumen or polymer compositions (liquid rubber) are done. The mastic is in a hot / cold state - it depends on the composition.
Rolled materials (films, geotextiles, roofing material) are overlapped on the previously prepared surface, with heating after the burner, rolling out air bubbles with a roller.
Impregnation compositions penetrate deeply into the structure of monolithic concrete (blocks) and create a water-repellent layer of vertical insulation from water of sufficient thickness.
If a basement, cellar, basement floor is built in the house, waterproofing of the vertical walls of the tape, after hardening, is mandatory.
The injection method is used as a repair measure for cracked or internally hollow bases. The method is expensive, but sometimes the only possible one, if there is no technical access to the surface being repaired, there are deep damages to the bearing belt of the house after it has been built.
Shielding is an expensive, rarely used method. It consists in the installation of a protective casing from special mats or plates.
Material selection
The qualities of the polymer material from which the waterproofing of the foundation-tape is made:
- Water repellency (hydrophobicity);
- Water resistant structure;
- Elasticity, adhesion after application to a rough surface;
- Adhesion to concrete;
- Manufacturability (quite easy to process, install under construction conditions, the ability to connect into a solid surface after soldering or gluing);
- Durability in the ground with repeated temperature fluctuations.
The most common materials for brushing are bituminous mastics. Do-it-yourself application allows you to carefully fill all the pores of the surface with a fluid composition.
All parts are covered in 3-4 layers, allowing to dry for a day at each stage. The advantages include the possibility of independent work, the maintainability of any individual section, the availability of material.
When applying the hot method, it is necessary to observe safety measures, use personal protective equipment.
The use of dry plaster mixtures with hydrophobic additives for coating is possible if the composition is frost-resistant. However, even under favorable conditions, cracking occurs after 10-15 years, requiring repair. Hydraulic resistance is not high.
Mounting material
If you apply roll materials, then you can’t manage it yourself. Assistants are invited to this stage. SNiPs allow the use of:
- fiberglass;
- polyvinyl chloride film;
- brizol;
- hydroisol (hydrostekloizol);
- polyisobutylene.
When spraying liquid rubber, one must not only be able to use a sprayer, but also cover the resulting surface of the lower part of the house with a geotestile to protect the entire area. Can also be applied with a brush.
Sticking of materials is carried out from top to bottom. The vertical rows must be made with a decoupling of 0.4 m at the joints of the seams. At the next stage, the corners are booked, after closing the vertical walls, with the same sheet, 0.2-0.3 m overlap in each direction. Use gas flame burners, propane in cylinders and protective equipment.
Watch a video on how to waterproof a strip base.
Liquid rubber in the finished state is not stored. It is necessary to calculate how much will be used immediately when you open the package or mix the two-component composition. Under the rubber primer is needed.
The service life will be 50-70 years.
Important Points
According to GOST 12.3.009, the following rules must be observed:
- The maximum humidity of the poured concrete is not more than 4%;
- Waterproofing from spray or paint compositions is carried out after the primer has completely dried;
- The thickness of the waterproofing layer is from 0.3 cm to 0.6 cm.
If the house is built close to the groundwater level, it is necessary to carry out gumming work (SNiP 3.04.03-85). Protection is recruited from rubber sheets and vulcanized at the joints.
How to make drainage
If there is a high GWL, heaving soil, the horizontal waterproofing of a part of the house includes a drainage system.
Watch the video on how to properly mount the drainage of the tape base.
Drainage happens:
- Annular. Distance 5-8 m from the walls in the form of a solid or open circle.
- Wall mounted. The distance from the walls is equal to the width of the foundation. The depth is not greater than its depth.
- Plast. The pipes are laid under the area of the building.
The outlet pipes are laid in a permeable filler (coarse gravel, sand) and discharged into a drain tank, which must be built outside the site.
Water destroys the building structures of the building, making them unusable, reducing the service life. This is especially true for the underground part of the house, which is exposed to several types of moisture at once. Outside, rain and melt water has a devastating effect on it, and groundwater causes trouble in the soil, the level of which may vary depending on the season. Waterproofing methods for the foundation of a building depend on its type and method of manufacture (tape, slab, pillars or piles).
How does moisture affect
There are several ways in which water can lead to the destruction of a concrete foundation:
- Washing out of the structure of particles, the formation of bumps and potholes due to aggressive components in rain or ground water.
- Destruction when water penetrates into the body of the foundation and freezes it there. The fact is that water is the only substance on the planet that, when it goes into a frozen state, expands, and does not decrease in volume. Getting into the capillaries, it exerts strong pressure on the foundation from the inside, which leads to the appearance of cracks and crevices.
That is why the waterproofing of the foundation is important and should be carried out immediately after the construction of the structure.
Types of moisture protection by location
In general, the foundation waterproofing device is divided into three groups:
- horizontal;
- vertical;
- blind area device.
Depending on the type of foundation, several methods can be applied simultaneously.
Combined moisture protection
Horizontal is designed to prevent the penetration of moisture between different levels. It can be made from various materials. It is provided for all types of foundations (tapes, slabs, pillars, piles).
Vertical is needed so that groundwater cannot affect the foundation. Not all types of grounds need such protection. Required only for strip and column supports at home. Horizontal protection is provided for all types (device of tape, plate or free-standing supports).
The blind area device protects the base from the penetration of rainwater and melt in the spring. Here, the width of the structure is essential. If it is insufficient, then the moisture will be removed a short distance and will be able to get to the foundation. This type of protection reduces the load on all others, allowing them to increase their service life.
Vertical and horizontal insulation
Waterproofing with roll material Foundation waterproofing can be carried out using various means of protection. Separately, it is worth considering the vertical and horizontal views and the blind area, since the materials in these cases will differ quite a lot.
Protection of the buried part of the building with vertical and horizontal insulation suggests that materials can be used for the following methods:
- pasting;
- coating;
- penetrating;
- plastering;
- injection;
- mounted;
- structural (additives in concrete).
It is worth separately understanding what material to use in each case.
Okleyechnaya
Such protection of the structure is carried out using roll options on a bituminous binder. Fusion or bonded material can be used. Built-up types imply the presence of an adhesive layer that is heated at high temperatures and adheres to the surface. To fix the insulation without an adhesive layer on the base, it will be necessary to use bituminous mastic as a connecting agent.
Covering materials include:
The use of roofing material is the most common method - only(the material is outdated and it is not recommended to use it as a protection for the critical structures of the house, but it is worth noting its low cost);
- glassine(waterproofing of the foundation based on thick dense cardboard, which is impregnated with bituminous binder, cannot be attributed to reliable and durable methods, but will significantly save money);
- ruberoid(remains the leader among rolled insulation due to its affordable price, the service life is quite short);
- polymeric materials impregnated with bitumen fiberglass or polyester backing(here, as an example, the following common options for protecting the walls and foundations of a house from moisture can be given: Linokrom, Gidroizol, TechnoNIKOL, Stekloizol, Bikrost, etc.).
The last group is the most reliable option, but the price of such material can be quite high.
But here it is worth considering their long service life, which will reduce the frequency of repairs. The advantages of the pasting method include the fact that it can be provided for various surfaces:
- concrete;
- wood;
- metal;
- asphalt concrete;
- old waterproofing coating (during repair).
Coating insulation
Foundation waterproofing in this case is most often performed using bituminous mastics. To protect the buried part of the building and the walls of the house, one-component and two-component compositions are used. In addition to bitumen, you can now find more reliable and modern options on the building materials market:
- polymer resins;
- bitumen-polymer resins;
- bitumen-rubber mastics.
Unlike ordinary bitumen, which cracks at low temperatures, these mixtures with additional additives are resistant to cold. The disadvantage of more modern options is their price, which cannot compete with conventional bitumen-based mastic. The latter is best used to protect the structures of the house with a deep location of groundwater.
Penetrating insulation
Waterproofing the foundation in this way prevents moisture from entering the concrete capillaries. This increases the strength of the surface layer of concrete. Waterproofing a strip foundation in this way is often carried out using an additional coating or pasting layer.
On average, the penetration depth is 15-25 cm, but some materials are able to go deep by 90 cm. It is important to note that such methods are only suitable for concrete. When used on brick and stone, they are useless.
The most common compositions for this method of processing steel:
- "Penetron";
- "Peneplug";
- "Hydrohit";
- "Penecrete".
- "Osmosil".
Protection of the concrete base from moisture The technology for protecting the foundations and walls of the house in this way implies a thoroughly cleaned, degreased and even base, therefore it is recommended for use on new buildings.
Paint and plaster insulation
Waterproofing the foundation with your own hands using paint and plaster compositions is not durable and reliable. If possible, it is better to give preference to other ways to protect the foundations and walls of the house, since the average service life of such materials is 5 years.
Injection isolation
Technique for introducing polyurethane resin into the base The option is suitable for repairing a base that has already been put into operation. The technology allows you to protect the foundation without excavation work. Injectors are introduced to the supports and deliver the insulating substance. The following materials can be used as raw materials:
- foam;
- resins;
- acrylate gels;
- rubber;
- cement-containing mixtures;
- polymer compositions.
Mounted insulation
Waterproofing the foundation in this way allows you to most effectively deal with the high level of groundwater and their high pressure. It is mainly used for strip foundations when it is required to protect an underground room.
The most reliable way of mounted waterproofing can be called a steel caisson. In this case, the structure of the walls and floor of the basement is sheathed from the inside with sheets of steel 4-6 mm thick. The option is very expensive, so it is extremely rarely used.
Brick walls are sometimes erected outside, but in most cases this method is used in conjunction with a pasting or coating option. The brick is more likely not to protect the foundation from moisture, but to protect the waterproofing from mechanical damage.
blind area device
Do-it-yourself waterproofing of the foundation in this case involves using the following blind area materials to protect the structure from the outside from atmospheric moisture:
Blind area production - concrete;
- asphalt concrete;
- clay;
- paving slabs;
- diffusion membranes.
The choice of the method of manufacturing the blind area depends on the preferences of the future owner of the house, the architectural solution and the availability of materials. The cheapest option for the blind area will be its laying of concrete or asphalt. This option does not have an attractive appearance, but allows you to protect the foundation without much labor. In addition, savings on raw materials for manufacturing are provided. The blind area device made of concrete or asphalt is popular in the mass construction of multi-apartment residential buildings and administrative and public buildings.
Waterproofing technology depending on the type of foundation
Each type of support under a building needs certain protection options. Before waterproofing the foundation, you need to find out what is required for a full range of activities.
Strip foundation protection
The waterproofing of the strip foundation is different for the monolithic and prefabricated versions. Let's take a look at the assembly first. To prevent damage to the underground walls of the house and flooding of the basement, the following measures will be required:
- arrangement of a reinforced joint between factory-made foundation slabs and concrete blocks of basement walls;
- laying the roll material in the first seam between the blocks, which is located below the basement floor level;
- rolled material is mounted along the edge of the foundation at the junction of the walls and the supporting structure;
- vertical insulation of the underground part of the tape from the outside;
- blind area device.
Strip base protection It is important to note that at the junction of foundation slabs and concrete blocks, it is impossible to lay materials on a bituminous binder. This can lead to displacement of elements relative to each other. Only a thickened concrete joint is suitable here. Insulation along the edge of the foundation is necessary so that the different moisture content of the material of the supporting parts of the structure and wall fences does not lead to destruction. For horizontal insulation, gluing methods are used.
It is better to perform vertical insulation from the outside, since this will not only protect the room, but also the load-bearing elements. In new construction, walls can be treated with gluing or coating materials. The interior is being renovated. In this case, a penetrating or injection type is used.
If you need to perform a set of waterproofing works for a monolithic tape, then it is worth considering the following measures:
- vertical isolation;
- waterproofing along the edge of the foundation;
- blind area device.
Materials are selected in the same way as for the prefabricated version.
Protection of columnar and pile foundations
A simple method of moisture protection Here the simplest type of protection against moisture is used. It will only be necessary to make insulation along the edge of the foundation. Its location depends on the material of the grillage. If the strapping is made of the same material as the foundation, then the roll materials are laid at the point of contact between the grillage and the walls. You can consider another option. For example, a wooden house rests on metal piles. In this case, the lower crown of the walls will serve as a grillage, so the insulating layer is laid on the heads of the supporting elements.
Foundation plate protection
To protect against moisture, the following measures will need to be provided here:
- concrete preparation of lean concrete to protect the slab from underground water and level the base;
- waterproofing for concrete preparation;
- protection from external moisture.
Foundation slab waterproofing For the manufacture of the second layer, roll methods are used when installing the plate. It is best to focus on modern materials, since after pouring the slab, it is almost impossible to monitor the condition of such insulation or carry out repairs. For small buildings with a low degree of responsibility and low water saturation of the soil, polyethylene film is often used.
To protect the plate from moisture that can get from above, it must be treated with penetrating compounds. Sometimes in private housing construction they resort to using the following method: a solution for penetrating insulation is introduced into the concrete.
Also, after pouring the slab, it will be necessary to provide for the laying of roll material in the places where the walls are supported.
Before you properly waterproof the foundation (tape plates, piles, pillars), you need to carefully study the issue. It is important to use quality materials. If you save at this stage of construction, you can spend a large amount of money on repairs during operation.
There is an opinion that concrete is a material that can withstand any conditions, including weather, and is able to serve for many years without undergoing any changes. However, in reality this is far from the case. Of course, concrete is one of the most durable and durable materials. However, in order for the concrete foundation to last as long as possible, it must be protected, and primarily from moisture, as it has a detrimental effect.
If you do not provide waterproofing for the foundation, after a while the basement will simply collapse, which will lead to a change, the destruction of the entire building. In addition, groundwater can cause great damage to the foundation of the house. Waterproofing is an important point in the arrangement of the foundation, in no case should you forget about it, and you can even carry out work on concrete insulation with your own hands. You can also find videos on the Internet on how to do this kind of work.
Waterproofing with coatings
Do-it-yourself waterproofing of a strip foundation with a coating is one of the easiest ways to protect the base from moisture. The technique of this version of waterproofing works on the principle of applying paint. You just need to purchase the material, and then use a brush to cover the entire surface of the foundation with a coating. To provide waterproofing in this case, liquid glass, various bituminous mastics and much more can be used.
The use of coating for waterproofing strip foundations has its advantages:
- The low cost of substances, and the work itself to ensure protection.
- Good elasticity of the substance, which is ensured by its consistency.
- The absence of any joints and seams.
- High degree of hydrophobicity after concrete coating.
- Ease of waterproofing. Coating concrete with a coating does not involve the use of any complex tools or equipment, as well as the presence of special skills.
- High degree of bonding to the foundation surface.
In addition to these qualities, the coating also has some disadvantages. First, it is short lived. The shelf life of such a substance is on average about six years. After this time, the mastic or other substance becomes inelastic and brittle, and, accordingly, unable to provide adequate protection. As a result, the homeowner will have to carry out repair and re-waterproofing work. You should pay attention to this when choosing a method of waterproofing. If cracks appear on the mastic or liquid glass after a period of time, it is necessary to take measures for repeated work as soon as possible, since moisture can penetrate through the cracks to the concrete and provoke the process of its destruction.
Given the fact that coating options are cheap, waterproofing can be done every 7-8 years without spending a lot of money. However, if this option does not suit you, you can choose substances with the addition of polymers, rubber or latex. Such compounds serve much longer and are more resistant to external influences.
Coating technology for concrete
Do-it-yourself waterproofing of the strip foundation is not difficult at all.
- It is first necessary to thoroughly clean the concrete tapes from dirt, dust and various foreign objects.
- Then you need to apply a special primer deep penetration. This is necessary for better adhesion of the coating to the surface of the foundation.
- After the primer dries well, you can start applying the waterproofing substance. This must be done with a special paint brush. The coating should be applied in such a way that there are no gaps and empty areas on the surface. Additionally, you can watch a video on how to properly waterproof a strip foundation.
Waterproofing with roll materials
Inexpensive waterproofing of strip foundations can be done using roll materials. The most striking and frequently used representative of this group is roofing material. Also, rolls of aquaizol and isoplast are sometimes used for such purposes.
Roll materials are generally quite widely used in the construction of houses and other structures. Moreover, they are used not only to protect the foundation, but also for roofing, pool construction, paving and much more. This material is able not only to protect against external influences of water and moisture, for example, under adverse weather conditions, but also from underwater groundwater with strong pressure.
Roll materials from which waterproofing is made are divided into several types:
- Pasting. Such materials are attached to the base surface using special adhesives, for example, bituminous mastic, or using a special adhesive layer provided. The second option is more convenient and does not require much time to complete the work.
- Floating. This type of material is convenient and interesting in that the pre-prepared layer from the roll is heated with a burner, and then applied to the surface of the foundation. Under the influence of high temperatures, the material becomes sticky, and is well attached to the base.
Roll materials also have some advantages:
- Ease of use and installation.
- Durability.
- The ability to repel moisture.
- High strength materials.
- Reliability of protection against external influences.
Roll materials have practically no drawbacks, and therefore are used for a variety of purposes during construction.
Roll coating technology
To make the waterproofing of the strip foundation with rolled materials, it is necessary to perform a simple sequence of actions that everyone can do:
- Prepare the base surface, level, clean from dirt and dust, remove excess inclusions and foreign particles.
- Apply bituminous mastic with a paint brush. In cases where rolls with self-adhesive or weldable material, this step is skipped.
- Roofing material or any other rolled material is applied to a clean and even surface, previously prepared.
- When fixing the material on the surface, it is important to overlap the layers on each other at the joints. The width of the overlap must be at least 15 centimeters. In order for the roofing material to be securely fastened in this place, it must be soldered using a gas burner.
The process of applying the material to the surface does not take much time. In more detail, the procedure for installing roofing felt or other rolled material can be viewed in the video.
Waterproofing using sprayed material
Waterproofing with sprayed materials is considered the most modern technology. Its main advantage is that it meets all the necessary requirements and clearly performs all tasks. In addition, such material can be used not only to protect the foundation for the first time, but also to repair old insulation. Today, builders also use sprayed waterproofing materials for roofing.
The main advantages of spraying include:
- Long service life.
- Ease of application work.
- The absence of any seams and joints.
- Fast drying and hardening.
- It does not have toxic properties and does not cause any harm to health.
- Resistant to UV rays.
- Elastic.
The disadvantages of sprayed materials include only a rather high cost of work, as well as the need to involve special equipment for coating.
The technology of applying the material involves preparatory work, and then spraying the substance using a special device. For fixing, geotex is also applied. A video of how the spraying procedure is performed can also be seen online.
Base waterproofing features
When applying waterproofing material, you need to remember some features. First, do not forget that the earth contains moisture, as well as many other substances that lead to destruction. Therefore, it is important to provide protection from lands located near the base. Apply materials, especially coating materials, in different directions, horizontally and vertically.
If you are still thinking about whether waterproofing is necessary, whether it is necessary to do protective work, you should think about the fact that due to the destruction of the base, the building will gradually begin to slope, which means that walls and other parts of the structure will begin to collapse. Repair in this case will be quite expensive, so it is better to prevent the occurrence of such difficulties.