When building a house and arranging a site, it is often required to make round holes in the ground. They are needed when arranging a fence - for installing poles, when building gazebos, installing arches and other light utility structures. The same pits, but with a larger diameter and depth, are required for the device. These pits are made with a motorized or hand drill. There are enough of them in stores, but many prefer homemade products: they are often more productive and reliable than factory products. In addition, a drill with your own hands can be made of any design, and there are many of them.
Designs and application
Easier to make garden earthen drills. Depending on the type of soil on which drilling is carried out, their design is slightly modified. This is the beauty of home-made drills - they can be "sharpened" for specific conditions and it's not only about the size - the blades can be made removable, bolted, but also in the design features. Yes, regular borax in the store are inexpensive, but they are "universal". They work well on "light" soils. " On loams, clays, marls, etc. they are ineffective.
Making a garden drill
A garden drill is the simplest but most effective design. It consists of:
This is a basic design, and there are many improvements to it. But first, let's talk about what a ground drill can be made of.
Materials (edit)
As already mentioned, the rod is most often made from a round or square pipe. Diameter - from 3/4 'to 1.5', profiled pipe can be taken from 20 * 20 mm to 35 * 35 mm.
Blade knives can be made from:
It is easier to make blades from a saw blade. In this case, the cutting edges are already prepared. It will be possible to additionally sharpen the side edges so that the soil is cut easier.
The pico drill is made of different materials - there are a lot of its designs. They just make a sharpened rod. Then you need a piece of a large diameter bar. The second option is to make something like a drill from a steel strip. And yet - a combination of the two.
Pica - one of the tip options
And finally - about the pen. It is more convenient if it is made of a round pipe. Its diameter can be selected according to the girth of the palms. The main requirement is that you should be comfortable.
Knives and method of fastening
First of all, you need to decide whether you are making a drill with your own hands with removable or stationary blades. If the blades are removable, weld thick steel shelves at one end of the rod. The shelves are made at an angle - so that the planes of the knives are divorced at an angle of 25-30 °.
After the shelves have been welded, two or three holes are made in them - for fasteners. Then the same holes will have to be made in the blades, and they will be installed on bolts of solid diameter.
One rod can have several sets of cutting blades - for holes of different diameters
In the discs themselves, holes will have to be cut in the center - so that they fit more tightly to the rod, but this operation is also required in the monolithic version - with welded blades.
Sheet steel
If you are going to make the blades from sheet steel, cut out a template from paper, along it - a circle of steel. Drill a hole in the center - a rod will need to be inserted and welded into it. Circle or square - depending on the selected bar. The dimensions of the hole are slightly larger than the dimensions of the rod.
It is also necessary to part the edges by 25-30 ° degrees. In this case, the drilling efficiency will be maximized. If you work on dense soils (clay, loam with a predominance of clay), the blades can be brought together under load. To avoid this, stops are added from a corner or a thick strip of steel.
The blades are bent due to the fact that the steel is used unhardened, but it is almost impossible to find it in the sheet, and if it is possible, then it will hardly be possible to bend it.
From the saw blade
If you have an old saw blade of a suitable diameter, you have found an almost perfect option. They use hardened steel, and it is elastic and strong. But such a disc cannot be bent, therefore it is cut in half and these halves are bred at the required angle.
Such a homemade drill for earthworks shows a fairly high productivity. Even used discs have a well-sharpened edge. And to make drilling even easier, the drill is also sharpened on the sides with their own hands.
Modifications
In dense soils, it can be difficult to cut the soil with large blades. In this case, several blades of different sizes are welded onto the rod. Below, near the peak, the smallest are welded, higher, retreating a few centimeters - the large ones. There can be three such tiers, maximum four. The entire cutting part should not be more than 50 cm, otherwise it is very difficult to work physically.
If a drill is needed for shallow pits - for installing poles, etc., then such a design is optimal - it has a relatively low weight, it is easy to work with it. The process of work is as follows - they lowered it into the hole, turned it several times - pulled out, poured out the soil stuck between the blades. But if you need to drill deep pits, you will be tortured to drag a small amount of soil from the depth. For such cases, a box for collecting soil is welded over the blades.
And all these are hand-made boers. All of them are highly efficient - it is much easier to work than purchased ones.
Auger drill
The auger drill, due to the large number of turns, creates significant resistance, that is, it is much more difficult to work with it than with a garden drill. But augers are used mainly in the presence of a mechanized drive - when they do it - for water, underground probes for a heat pump, etc.
To make a homemade auger drill, you will need several metal discs. The number of disks is equal to the number of turns. The discs are cut out the same, in them, in the center, a hole for the rod is cut out, as well as the same sector - so that they can be welded.
The disks are welded on one side, then, slightly stretching the resulting accordion, the seam is welded on the other side. Rings are welded on the outer discs. The welded discs are put on the rod, the lower edge is welded.
Drill for piles TISE
In the author's version, the TISE drill is a blade with a soil receiver and a wider folding knife, which forms an extension in the lower part of the pile. But working with such a projectile is inconvenient - a folding knife interferes greatly. Therefore, in some structures it is made removable, but in general, it is recommended to drill the pits themselves with an ordinary garden drill, and to expand it, make a separate folding knife with a land receiver. This makes the work easier and faster.
A do-it-yourself drill for TISE piles is one of the options
A cut-off shovel acts as a knife here, and the land receiver is made from a herring can. The knife is fixed movably, when it is lowered into the pit, it is pulled up by a nylon cable tied to the end. Having reached the bottom, the cable is weakened, the blade begins to cut the sides of the pit, forming the necessary expansion.
The photo below shows the second version of a homemade drill for TISE piles. The design is more complex, but also more efficient. The plow-blade is made from a piece of spring, sharpened and welded to the folding structure on bolted connections.
Dredger - from an old propane tank. The earth is collected from the bottom, because the receiver is made with a rounded bottom. It has two holes, their edges are sharpened.
This projectile works well even on dense clay. True, to reduce friction, the well must be constantly wetted with water.
Blueprints
A self-made drill is good because its design is "sharpened" for the owner. In the manufacturing process, everyone makes their own changes, then many more modify the product. But it can be difficult to do without basic drawings. This grave contains several drawings with the dimensions of various drills. As you can imagine, the sizes are conditional, they can and should be changed, adjusting to the sizes of the required wells.
For planting plants, it makes no sense to make a serious structure. In this case, you can make a garden drill from a shovel. Choose a high-quality shovel made of good steel, apply the markings, as shown in the drawing. According to the markings, you will need to cut out two small fragments, cut the lower part in the middle to a depth of 30 cm (pictured).
If the ground is soft, conventional construction does not work very well. For such cases, there is a special drill with an extended cutting part. It is a kind of glass with slots on the sides. The cuts are provided with cutting edges. It is better to make them from well-hardened steel.
This drawing shows an interesting design of the handle - it can be rearranged as the length of the rod increases.
Basic drawings of the auger and garden auger
Both of these units work well, but the garden unit has to be removed often, and the auger is harder to rotate. Choose according to your own preferences.
Garden drill drawing
Video materials
Today you will not be surprised by the fact that experts often use an electric or gasoline drill for the earth. This allows them to significantly reduce the drilling time, and a person practically does not spend physical efforts with such equipment. In this article, maximum attention will be focused on electric drills for earthwork.
Modern Boers - species, which one to choose?
Initially, let's figure out what borax exist today. All models can be safely divided into three types.
- Hand drills. This type is used for drilling, as a rule, single holes. When using it, you must apply a lot of physical strength.
- Gasoline drills. This type of equipment is very common. It can be used for both individual construction and professional construction. The units are powerful and efficient.
- Electric motor-drills. These units are not as powerful as gasoline ones, however, their operation does not require a lot of physical effort. They are convenient for individual construction, when drilling holes for poles, when planting trees and bushes. However, it is worth remembering that a garden electric drill will only work if there is an extension cord for the electrical network.
Summing up, we can conclude:
- the first type is simple, but not productive,
- the second type is powerful, productive and can be used when working on any soil,
- the third type (electric drill) is less productive, requires a wire extension cord, can be used for individual construction.
Given these characteristics, you can easily choose exactly the drill that is right for you!
Let's consider the technical characteristics of two models of electric drills.
Electric drill model Тexas ea1200
Let's consider its main technical characteristics:
- power 1200 W;
- maximum drilling diameter 150 mm;
- maximum drilling depth 800 mm;
- generated noise level 90 dB;
- weight 12.8 kg.
Specifications:
- power 1050 W;
- maximum drilling depth 1 m;
- drilling diameter range 80 - 200 mm;
- weight 14 kg.
As can be seen from the presented technical characteristics, electric pit drills are significantly inferior to some models that run on a gasoline engine. Therefore, if you need to drill the soil often and a lot, then you should give preference to gasoline equipment. For infrequent use, electric is ideal.
You can make any drill with your own hands, however, to make an electric or gasoline drill, you will need a lot of parts, tools and a solid store of knowledge. Therefore, if you are thinking about a homemade storm, then the easiest way for you is to make a hand drill.
To make it, you don't need a lot of material and special tools. Particular attention should be paid during manufacturing to the drill blade. Often, a chainsaw blade is used to make a blade. It is cut into two parts with the help of the "Bulgarian" and welded to the bar at an angle. Such a drill can be used in a private economy, however, it should be understood that during its operation it will be necessary to apply a lot of physical strength.
Fans of fishing in the winter season have long appreciated the benefits of using an ice screw. Both the professional angler and the novice alike know how this device makes it easier to drill holes in ice. Naturally, you can use an ice drill in the old fashioned way, breaking through the ice, but it will greatly facilitate the process of using an electric drill made at home. Moreover, if you have drawings and a desire, you can quickly and easily make an ice screw from a screwdriver with your own hands.
Advantages of a homemade electric drill
An automated homemade device made from a screwdriver has many advantages over store-bought products. The main advantages are:
- self-connecting an electric drive is much cheaper than buying a factory product;
- the manufacturing process requires a minimum of consumables and a standard set of tools;
- improvement of a conventional drill takes place at home, without the involvement of third-party specialists.
The result of the efforts of a home craftsman will be an excellent automated device for drilling ice of any thickness, which will turn into an indispensable fishing assistant on winter fishing.
In order for a self-made ice drilling product to cope with the tasks set, it is important to choose the right model of a screwdriver with high power ratings. Using a weak tool will lead to problems when drilling holes in thick ice.
Considering that the ice ax must be mobile, you need to buy a power tool with a rechargeable battery. Also, the electric drive must have maximum physical strength and reliability. It must withstand various loads, mechanical shock and other troubles that happen on fishing.
A power tool for a homemade ice screw must meet the following characteristics:
An excellent product is the powerful Bosch brand ice screwdriver. You can also use a good Japanese Makita brand power tool. Although it all depends on the financial capabilities and preferences of the angler. The main thing is that the product is suitable for the power and capacity of the battery.
Battery types
Today, an autonomous electric screwdriver, which can be used to make an electric drill yourself, is equipped with different batteries. At the same time, the following batteries are popular:
- The lithium-ion battery is lightweight, has a high charging speed, but is afraid of low temperatures. Plus, such a battery has a high cost.
- The nickel-cadmium battery is heavy, but it can operate at extremely low temperatures, which is important for winter fishing.
Seasoned anglers always take two batteries with them on the ice. To prevent the battery from draining quickly, it is better to store it under a jacket in a specially made pocket or case. The presence of two batteries can significantly extend the autonomy of the screwdriver.
Electric screwdriver substitutes
Naturally, to create an electric drill for drilling ice, not only an electric screwdriver is suitable ... DIYers can easily adapt other tools:
- electric drill;
- electric wrench;
- chainsaw.
The latter option is convenient in that it runs on gasoline, and not on a rechargeable battery. However, it is very difficult to make an ice drill from a chainsaw at home without a special tool and a lathe.
It is important to understand that not every model of ice screw can be attached to screwdrivers. This is due to the peculiarity of domestic products, which, when drilling ice, rotate in the direction of untwisting the chuck of the power tool. This causes a lot of inconvenience on winter fishing. Of course, you can additionally use a reduction gear, but not every home craftsman can make it.
Therefore, when making an automatic ice drill, it is better to give preference to imported models. Any Mora model that easily adapts to an electric tool is ideal. For them, all the necessary adapters can be bought in the store, which will allow you to connect the cartridge to the auger with high quality.
The "Tonar" model deserves special attention. The manufacturing company is engaged in the production of removable augers with cutting heads, which are easy to connect with a cordless screwdriver. And to drill through thick ice, you can adapt a store-bought extension cord.
Features of the manufacture of the screw part
Most fishermen are used to making their own accessories. This is due to the fact that not everyone can afford to buy a quality device in a store, and even more so if it is mechanized. To manufacture such a product, you will need to prepare spare parts from the following list:
- A metal pipe of a suitable diameter.
- Metal plates for the manufacture of auger.
- Quality steel knives.
To connect all the individual elements, electric welding will be required. After all the parts are welded, they are cleaned with a grinder. The resulting product is painted for corrosion protection. Given the complexity of such work, you will need to contact a specialist. Therefore, it is better to buy the finished product in the store.
Cutting part
Every fisherman dreams of fishing comfort... It is important to remember that the quality of ice drilling depends on the following parameters:
- Blade hardening. In modern models of drills, blades with hardness values from 30 to 70 units are used.
- Cutting knife workmanship. The knife has two cutting edges. The speed of ice drilling depends on the quality of sharpening of the latter.
The choice of steel in the manufacture of a do-it-yourself electric drill is important if all its parts, except for the electric drive, are made independently. If you buy a ready-made model in a store, you can not pay attention to this parameter. The following materials are used for the manufacture of the cutting part:
- Hard special steel grade P18 or similar analogues. It is important to pay attention to the hardness of the material, its shape and the quality of the sharpening.
- Titanium coated metal. Blades with this coating have a maximum service life.
DIY adapter preparation
It is important to remember that the manufacture of the adapter depends on the characteristics of the drill. If the Swedish drill Mora is used, then an adapter for an ice drill for a screwdriver of the following type is suitable:
- for the standard model, you will need a product with a diameter of 1.8 cm;
- if a Mora Nova is used, the adapter must be 2.2 cm in diameter.
To prevent the auger from spinning in the screwdriver sleeve, the adapter must have a hexagonal working surface. And to prevent accidental loss, a special stop is installed.
There are also adapters with handles. They are easier to use while drilling ice. The adapter model with a diameter of 1.8 cm from Higashi goes well with all Swedish drills and some domestic products.
Assembly of individual elements
Having dealt with all the elements that make up the device, you can start assembling an ice screw with your own hands at home. This is a straightforward process if you have prepared the elements discussed earlier:
- auger part of the drill;
- electric screwdriver;
- adapter of appropriate diameter.
The chuck is connected to the auger using an adapter. This completes the assembly of the automated ice drill.
Instrument care rules
Whatever ice screw is made on the basis of a screwdriver, so that it works as long as possible, it is important to properly care for it. To do this, you should adhere to the following rules:
As you can see, making an ice screw with your own hands is a fairly simple process. The main thing is to choose the right adapter, screwdriver and cutting part of the product. By combining all the components into a single structure, you will get an indispensable helper for winter fishing. Such a tool will allow you to drill a hole in ice of any thickness in a few minutes.
In the garden, you have to use various equipment. To plant trees or build a fence, the owner will need an electric excavation drill. This device is simple in design and high in performance. It is only necessary to choose the right device, and the work will take less physical strength and time.
general information
Before going to the store for such a device, you should find out what an electric drill for earthworks is and how it generally works. Most models have a special frame as the main structural element. There are two handles on it, and an electric motor is installed, supplemented by a gearbox. The latter is necessary to increase the torque when using the device.
There are many criteria for choosing an electric drill
During work, the unit must be held by two people at the same time. When the gearbox shaft rotates, the torque is transmitted to the screw auger. Thanks to him, it becomes possible to perform a variety of earthworks. How much you have to spend on the purchase of equipment depends largely on its characteristics. The most important are:
- dimensions;
- power;
- terms of Use.
The range of such devices on the Russian market is small, which is explained by the limited scope of their use. But in fact, an electric drill is a fairly versatile device. The consumer should make the choice in favor of a particular type, starting from the type of soil prevailing on the site. In addition to this, you can purchase a variety of attachments that manufacturers offer for different surfaces.
Learn more about an earth storm in this video:
Advantages and disadvantages
Although an electric earth drill is available in stores, it is rarely used in the field. Many people refuse to buy a device because they simply do not know about its main advantages:
- Saving physical strength. These devices are powered by electricity, so the work associated with drilling holes in the ground becomes an easy task.
- Environmental friendliness. Unlike gasoline devices, their electric counterparts do not emit exhaust gases during operation, so there is no harm to plants and the environment.
- Silence. The electric drill does not create noise during work. Thus, its use completely eliminates discomfort for neighbors.
- Minimum weight. Modern models are lightweight, which also gives them an advantage over gasoline devices.
The main and only drawback of these devices is that the drill is tied to an electrical outlet of 220 V. If the site is not electrified, then there is no way to use such equipment. Although many models are equipped with rechargeable batteries, the battery power is not sufficient for continuous operation of the device.
Application rules
Typically, an electric earth drill is used to make holes for planting fruit trees or shrubs. But even when carrying out construction work, this device can also come in handy. It is great for creating holes where piles or other support elements will be installed later.
Hand-crafting holes in the ground is a laborious task, and it is noticeably complicated by the stones and tree roots encountered. However, the use of an electric drill can solve the problem quickly and easily. In a situation when it is necessary to drill holes in a hard-to-reach place where it is not possible to place large equipment, such a device will greatly facilitate the process.
A variety of electric drills are available on the market today. They differ in size from each other. They can even be used for jobs such as well drilling or well construction. If you need a device for performing a wide range of tasks in the garden, then it can be easily purchased at any specialized store.
Nuances of choice
In order for the equipment to provide high efficiency in use, it is necessary to select it correctly, focusing on the tasks to be solved. The main points that deserve attention when choosing an electric drill are the power of the device and the equipment of the device.
It must be understood that low power limits the scope of use. But the purchase of high-power equipment is also an irrational decision, especially if it is planned to use it only occasionally in the garden. The best choice would be to purchase a device with a power of 1.5 kW.
If an electric drill is required to install a pile foundation or perform another laborious task, then models from 2 kW and above should be considered.
A good completeness of the device ensures easy performance of a variety of works. Such a device can be considered universal, but this leads to an increase in its cost. In specialized stores, the minimum price for such equipment is 15,000 rubles. To get a high-quality and reliable device at your disposal, you need to seriously spend money.
Main manufacturers
Drilling equipment for use in garden plots is available from many companies. In countries such as Japan, Sweden and Italy, there are many firms producing electric drills. ... Among Russian consumers, the devices of the following companies are most in demand:
- ECHO. This Japanese firm produces a variety of products. The models are highly reliable and delight with their performance characteristics. Their feature is a rather simple design. This eliminates frequent breakdowns and facilitates maintenance. The average price tag for devices from this manufacturer is 28,000 rubles.
- EFCO. The manufacturer from Italy offers a variety of devices for drilling operations. A feature of the devices is their increased strength, they can easily withstand serious loads. The attachments are great for frequent use. The brand's products are offered at an average price of 29,000 rubles.
- STIHL. The technique of this company is well known in the Russian market. The domestic manufacturer offers a variety of devices. Electric drills are also present in his product line. The models are practical and durable. They are also economical to use. The devices can be used to perform work of varying complexity and are equipped with a safe interlock system. The average price for them in comparison with foreign counterparts is much lower and amounts to 15,000 rubles.
Choosing a device from one of the well-known manufacturers, you can get a reliable device that will last a long time. It is not necessary to purchase equipment from hands. The best solution is to work with a dealer. You can buy really high-quality equipment from the official representative of the brand, besides, in this case, competent service is guaranteed.
The modern market is saturated with all sorts of construction tools and fixtures. Take, for example, yamobur: today you can easily find a device, the cost of which is quite affordable, and the declared characteristics completely suit the buyer. It would seem that there is nothing easier: buy and use. But one should not always rush to such an acquisition. The fact is that in practice low-cost equipment does not always meet the needs of the buyer, or even is not at all capable of performing the functions assigned to it: the drill is in no hurry to enter the ground even with strong pressure, the engine speed drops from a heavy load, etc.
It is not always advisable to buy a powerful and expensive device for a small amount of construction or garden work. Renting is also not a cheap pleasure. Therefore, the craftsmen strive to use the equipment already at their disposal to create compact drilling rigs.
Drill Ground Drill
In most cases, a power drill is a power unit (a powerful drill or a gasoline engine) that is connected to a conventional hand drill using a simple mechanical drive. The drill can be made by yourself.
Drill drill with your own hands.
On sale you can find a ready-made drill of serial performance.
skyle FORUMHOUSE user
Many say that they just bought such a screw and fixed it to it a powerful low-speed electric drill.
Engine characteristics
Recommendations regarding the number of revolutions of the power plant and its other characteristics deserve separate consideration. To begin with, the power plant can be connected to the drill both directly and through an additional gearbox. Everyone determines the need to use a gearbox for himself. As practice shows, if the rated power of the drill is 2 kW, then there is no need to use a gearbox (especially if the installation does not have a special bed, and during operation it has to be held by hand).
jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE user
At first, a reducer was planned, but after field tests with a drill-auger scheme, it was decided to abandon the reducer. The moment is such that she does not notice the operator at all (if you drill with your hands).
The power indicator - 2 kW - was taken by us for a reason. It is these drills that are most often used by the participants of our forum in the manufacture of mechanized hole drills.
Tri.Dr.E FORUMHOUSE user
There is experience in the construction of a columnar foundation with a grillage. I used a drill with a power of 2 kW and an auger designed for a pit diameter of 30 cm (the diameter of a drill is somewhere equal to 29.3 cm). For deeper drilling, I used an extension made of ordinary steel pipe. The soil in my place is not sugar: earth, then clay, then some kind of lens with beach sand, then again clay with sand, and then blue clay (at a depth - 1.8 - 1.9 m).
In order to get holes of the required depth in the ground, the user had to build a compact drilling rig (with a bed, a winch and other accessories).
But now we are talking about the power of the power unit, and from the description presented it is easy to understand what a drill with a rated power of 2 kW is capable of (even without a gearbox).
A bit of theory
If we consider the relationship between the power of the drill (or gasoline engine) and the torque on the drill shaft, then it is determined by the following relationship:
- N - power (W).
- M - torque (Nm).
- n is the number of revolutions (rpm).
- 9549 is a special coefficient.
Theoretically, the torque on the working shaft of such an installation at 500 rpm should be 38 Nm (64 Nm - at 300 rpm). But to calculate the torque, it is always necessary to take into account the losses, which are determined by the efficiency of the device. The thing is that most manufacturers of power tools indicate only the power consumption of their devices, and the output power (on the working shaft) is 1/3 ... 1/4 less than the consumed power. Accordingly, the torque is also lower. A drill with a power of 2 kW at 300 rpm will generate a torque on the spindle that is not 64 Nm, but approximately 48 Nm.
Choosing a power unit for your yamobur, you can consider devices with a power consumption of less than 2 kW. But then you will have to seriously think about introducing a reduction gear into the design of the drilling rig.
uvl77 FORUMHOUSE user
Regarding the gearbox: the gearbox is good, because it allows, without changing the power, to proportionally change the number of revolutions and torque. That is, by reducing the number of revolutions through the gearbox, we proportionally increase the torque. And the power in this case remains a generalized characteristic (constant).
Focusing on the torque that a 2 kW drill creates (without an additional gearbox), you can choose the right device for your hole auger. In other words, knowing the power of the drill, the number of revolutions of its spindle and the gear ratio of the gearbox used, you can calculate the value of the torque that you will receive at the output of the power plant. But it should be understood that the number of revolutions of the drill cannot be greatly reduced.
uvl77 FORUMHOUSE user
The optimum speed while drilling is from 60 ... 100 to 200 ... 300 rpm. Modedepends on the type of soil, the method of drilling, the type of drill bits, the diameter of the hole, etc.
Drilling methods are mentioned in the above quote. There are all two of them: continuous drilling and drilling with constant soil removal. For continuous drilling, the rig must provide a high torque.
During drilling with constant soil removal, the auger, drilled into the soil to a certain depth, rises to the surface. In this case, the loosened soil located on the working blades of the auger is also pulled out.
The operation is repeated until the drilling rig reaches the specified depth. The process is laborious, but it does not require large torques.
As we have already said, when choosing a power unit for a drilling rig, it is better to focus on a low-speed drill with a power of 2 kW (that is, on the torque that it transmits to the working shaft). Judging by the numerous reviews from FORUMHOUSE users, these devices have proven themselves quite well. The power of gasoline engines must also meet the specified indicator.
Reducers for yamobur and their varieties
The assembly of any mechanism in most cases is characterized by the use of improvised materials, devices and assemblies that have been idle for a long time, because they did not find a worthy application for them. The experience of our users suggests that a mechanical downshift can be made from a wide variety of parts: from spare parts for an old moped, from a simple chain or worm gear, from a suitable gearbox of unknown origin, accidentally lying on an old shelf in the garage, etc.
Equipping a drilling rig with a gearbox, the main thing is not to forget about the optimal rotational speed of the drill and the fact that it is necessary to provide sufficient torque on its working shaft.
Mehanik020 FORUMHOUSE user
I had a broken moped lying around, and I took the rear gear from it. Sawed off the gearbox with a turbine (the back of the aluminum housing with a gearbox), then fixed it through a gear transmission to this gearbox an electric motor from an old electric saw with a power of 2 kW. The engine with the gearbox gave a ratio of 13: 1 (the output turned out to be about 300 rpm).
On the chain drive: with a certain amount of ingenuity, it is possible, without much effort, to build a completely reliable pit drill with sufficient power. The presented idea is not new, and many people successfully apply it in practice (if necessary).
jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE user
There is no gearbox, although it was planned to manufacture it from the VAZ 2101 timing chain and its own sprockets. The gear ratio is 1: 2. Tests have shown that it is not needed. Unless it can be used on very hard soils, but we do not have such.
The use of the above mechanisms requires a non-standard approach to the assembly of the drilling rig. If you have a small serial gearbox available (or the opportunity to purchase it inexpensively), then the task becomes much easier. For example, here is a photo of a gearbox posted by user melomandk.
Melomandk FORUMHOUSE user
I found such a reducer. Here are just a large gear ratio - equal to or even slightly more than 1:40. Dimensions (body) - about 15 x15 cm.
As it turned out, the device has quite suitable parameters.
Dee Gris FORUMHOUSE user
My yamobur is based on just such a gearbox. So far I am very satisfied. The engine is a Bulgarian (3000 output rpm). The power of the grinder is 2 kW. I did not try to drill clay, but yamobur took hard, rammed earth with inclusions of rubble and rotten roots. The diameter of the auger is 160 mm, the knives on it are homemade - from the spring.
Stanina
If there is a lot of work, if you need to drill deeply, and it is very difficult to hold the installation in your hands, then the existing equipment can be fixed in a special bed.
The design of self-made beds, as well as of reduction mechanical transmissions, can be very diverse. But there are structural elements that are used in the vast majority of cases.
Lifting mechanism
A chain drive installed inside the B-pillar can be used as a lifting mechanism. Raising and lowering is carried out either with the help of an additional electric motor, or with a handle (as in the photo from the user jumper_at_home).
jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE user
The maximum depth was 1.8 m (auger + extension). Deeper was not required. Homemade winch - 2 gears and a chain from a motorcycle.
In order for the plate with the main electric motor to move freely along the vertical pipe, four rollers can be installed on the carriage.
Another design of the hoist involves the use of a steel cable and a winch with an additional electric motor.
Mehanik020 FORUMHOUSE user
The main drill motor drives up and down the square tube. It moves at the expense of a winch (which I already had). This winch is needed in order to pull the drill with soil out of the well.
For convenience Mehanik020 made a remote control that controls the winch and the rotation of the drill during operation.
The drill, together with the soil adhering to it, can create quite large loads on the winch. At great depths, it will work on the principle of a piston, creating a vacuum underneath and aggravating the situation when lifting up. Therefore, the more powerful the winch is used, the better.
DmitryEvg FORUMHOUSE user
My winch is designed for 250 kg (500 through a chain hoist). Power - 1 kW.
Lower bed support
The lower bed support can be equipped with two wheels (for easy movement within the construction site). If everything is done correctly, then the installation by a simple tilt of the bed will be transferred from the transport position to the working position.
It is advisable to install adjusting screws on the supporting elements of the bed, which, before starting work, will help to align the drill in accordance with the vertical level.
The materials for making the bed are selected for strength reasons. Not everyone can independently perform a complex design calculation, but anyone can benefit from the experience of the participants of our portal.
So, the user Tri.Dr.E made a bed from a corner 50 * 50 * 5. The vertical supports and the upper transverse bar are made of two corners of the specified size fastened together.
User jumper_at_home laid in the construction of the bed a different metal profile with a wall thickness of at least 3 mm. The platform for the power plant was made by him from steel sheet 10 mm thick.
And here is a photo of the installation that was created by the user PwrWW“From what was” (as he himself says).
PwrWW FORUMHOUSE user
The most difficult thing was to find two straight one-piece three-meter pipes with a diameter of 60 mm. If they were not there, I would have bought a profile pipe of 80 or 100 mm. At the bottom, I used a piece of channel 80 and a scrap metal corner. I also found 4 U-shaped plates of suitable length among the scrap.
Ideally, the carriage should be constructed in such a way that the operator of the drilling rig can stand on it, if necessary. It is especially important to comply with this condition on hard soils.
jumper_at_home FORUMHOUSE user
This is what was used to protect against turning the drill: a 6 mm steel stop angle screwed to the hole for the handle, which is located on the drill body. Everything is bolted with sufficient surface flatness. If you want even more reliable - provide a clamp for the landing groove available on the drill end.
Mechanical drive
The design of a mechanical drive connecting a drill or other motor to the working shaft of an earth auger is not particularly complicated. To create it, an adapter is enough, which is inserted into the drill chuck (Morse taper, etc.) and a cylindrical sleeve, one end is welded to the adapter with a bark, and the other is put on the drill shaft. In order to increase the depth of the drilled hole between the drill and the drill, removable elbows made of the same material as the drill rod can be inserted.
In order to prevent breakdowns when the working body is jammed, the drive and the drill should be connected using a special protective pin. The hairpin is made from a metal bar - 4 ... 8 mm. It is better to test the installation with a stud having a minimum diameter (4 mm).
Almost a pro FORUMHOUSE user
Imagine if your drill hits a stone and gets stuck. I have a 4 mm nail as a shear pin, and it has never been cut off. But, if an obstacle is encountered, then he does not give up sickly in his hands.
Homemade drill
As we have already said, the working body of the installation (drill) can be purchased in a specialized store, but it is quite possible to make it yourself. Here, for example, is a homemade drill with removable blades.
To make it, we need a thick-walled pipe of a suitable diameter (30 mm), as well as material for the blades and for their base. The bases to which the blades will be screwed can be made of a thick metal sheet (6 ... 10 mm). The blades themselves should be made of high-strength spring steel (Art. 65G). If you need a small diameter garden hole, you can use ordinary truck springs.
Circular saw blades can be used to make blades.
The drill bit should be 5 mm larger than the diameter of the holes to be drilled.
We present to your attention a sketch drawing of the product.
Dropping the top handle, we get exactly what we need.
The design of a homemade drill must meet the following parameters:
- The angle between the cutting blades (between the blades) can vary from 25 ° to 30 °.
- The front edge of the blade is sharpened at an angle of 45 °… 60 °.
- It is advisable to weld a thick metal drill to the lower end of the drill, thanks to which it will be easier for the installation to enter dense soil.
How to fix a garden drill in a drill.