Good day! I like your site, there is so much useful information in it. But still I would like to ask. Our house is adobe, left as a legacy, there are uneven walls in it and we do not know how to level them, I don’t want to work with clay, it is not practical, and it’s already the 21st century in the yard, I know that adobe is a natural material and he is only friends with natural materials.
So my husband and I decided to sheathe the inside of the walls with wood. But we were told that it is not advisable to make holes in the adobe, even small ones. Please tell me what to do? If you can sheathe it with wood, then what should you adhere to and what technology is there? Thanks.
Elena, Ukraine, Dnepropetrovsk.
Hello Elena from Dnepropetrovsk!
In general, adobe houses by and large do not imply any further finishing, both outside and inside.
Everything is done immediately during the construction phase. That is, they decided to build a house from adobe, which is usually dictated by the large availability of cheap material near the construction site (first of all, clay) and they are building immediately with plaster walls from the same material composition as the main walls of the house.
The leveling of the surface of the walls is carried out immediately during the construction phase. And in the future, only cosmetic repairs and whitewashing are performed, both outside and inside the house. This is a traditional method developed over the centuries.
And the look of such walls is considered a certain charm, a kind of retro style. It happens, however, that for greater importance from the inside, natural boulders will be added on the surface of a pair of walls, which are bricked up with the same plaster and metal reinforcement for better retention.
All kinds of lining and decoration of the walls of adobe houses outside with bricks, blocks and similar materials are considered not quite the right decision for a number of reasons. As well as from the inside with the same drywall, not to mention hardboard, plywood and even lining.
If you absolutely want to sheathe uneven walls from the inside with wood, then most likely this should be done with a clapboard on a wooden frame. / The metal profile as a frame will not work - then you cannot nail the lining with nails. /
Currently, there is a controversy about the presence of a dew point at the interface between dissimilar materials (in this case, adobe walls and wood of the frame itself or the surface of the lining).
That is, to put it simply, due to the temperature difference outside the house and inside it, in a certain place in the thickness of the walls, moisture can arise with all the ensuing consequences. It's good when this border is in the thickness of the adobe walls. But if it falls on the inner surface of these walls or on the surface of wooden elements, then moisture begins to settle at certain points in the form of condensation. What is not good.
In most cases, in adobe houses, the mentioned border is inside the walls and nothing inside the house is visually noticeable, but, unfortunately, this does not always happen.
In short, if the presence of moisture on the inner walls has never been observed in your house, and under no temperature cataclysms, then everything is fine. If this has happened, then there may be problems with the installation of wooden sheathing.
I hope I haven't completely intimidated you with excursions into thermodynamics?
And clapboard cladding is done as follows. Take a wooden cranial bar with a section of about 20 * 40 millimeters. Apply it with the flat side (not on the edge!) To the surface of the adobe walls and set them on a level. If necessary, in those places of the walls where there are large dips, pieces of plywood of the required thickness are placed to eliminate these dips-deflections. So that a set of such several different-thickness pieces of plywood does not crumble, they are fastened together with galvanized studs.
In this case, the lining can be installed in two options.
The first is vertical. Then the cranial block is attached to the walls horizontally and in about four belts. The first and fourth are directly at the floor and ceiling. The other two are at a symmetrical distance along the height of the walls.
The second option is horizontal. Then the cranial bar is installed horizontally with a step (size between the bars) of about 0.6 meters.
/ Around the openings of windows and doors, the timber is mounted along their entire perimeter, and the slopes are then closed with decorative strips or a wooden corner. Other options are also possible. /
Wooden surfaces are treated with antiseptic compounds. Bruskov - from all sides. Lining - only from the inside, the one that will face the surface of the adobe walls. This is due to the fact that in the future you will most likely cover the surface of the walls from the lining with some kind of dye (pinotex, aquatex, texturol, cover or something else from one and a half to two dozen similar compositions). But not all of these dyes are compatible with antiseptic compositions.
If incompatibility occurs, after a while, detachment or peeling of subsequent overlays occurs. And if the surface of the lining facing inside the premises is not covered with anything, then there will be no rejections.
Fastening of the cranial bars is usually carried out using black wood screws. Bars are fixed to the walls with a distance between the fasteners of about half a meter - about a meter. The length of self-tapping screws used in adobe walls ranges from 50 to 100 millimeters.
Self-tapping screws can be supplied with plastic dowels. It all depends on the density of the wall material and the presence of wooden elements in them. The basic idea is to keep your skull batten frame from falling off. And this is achieved in several ways, and only experimentally and strictly individually for each house. There are no completely alike adobe houses, because they were built and are being built more and more "by eye", builders, that is, the owners, put completely different amounts of clay, fires, etc. into adobe, and therefore the characteristics of the wall material are different.
So, even in the walls made only of adobe, there are still wooden elements that are on the top (strapping or edging beam), the floor is also wooden, and the cranial beam is also attached to it. And there is also wood around the windows and doors. That is, in all places where there is a tree, you must try to attach the cranial block. At the same time, self-tapping screws can be used here of a shorter length (than 75 - 100 millimeters, which are attached to adobe walls).
In addition, in the corners of the house, the bars located along the mating walls are attached to each other (at 90 degrees), which creates additional structural strength.
Your concerns about small holes in the adobe. Well, firstly, not through holes, but grooves for self-tapping screws a few centimeters. With the thickness of adobe walls, which is several tens of centimeters, this is not fatal. And calculate the area of such holes yourself in comparison with the total area of the walls. These are ten thousandths of a percent of everything. Theoretically, these are, of course, "cold bridges", but in practice, as mathematicians say, their value is negligible and can be neglected.
For fastening themselves to a wooden crate frame, galvanized clapboard (finishing) nails 40 millimeters long are used.
There is no unequivocal opinion on the use of various thermal films between adobe walls and wood. Some experts argue that such are obligatory, others - the exact opposite.
I am more impressed by the second. It is in the case of adobe walls. In other variations, this may be far from the case.
I would consider the most correct solution for you - to make one room according to the recommended one. If everything is okay, I mean, okay, then next year do everything in the same way in all other rooms with uneven walls, because as soon as time shows the correctness of our decisions.
Everything. Good luck!
Other questions about adobe houses.
Building a house is an expensive undertaking. Building materials alone for the construction of walls will cost a significant amount, and you also need to involve craftsmen for their masonry and decoration. Yes, with all the costs for high-quality construction and finishing materials, you still need to make sure of their environmental characteristics - you must admit that today this criterion is important. Meanwhile, a full-fledged house can be built not only with your own hands, but also from a construction material created, again, independently and right on the construction site - no chemical components are required for the production of adobe bricks. Let's find out what adobe is, how to build a building out of it, and, finally, how comfortable it will be to live in such a house.
History of adobe houses
To shelter himself and his family from the bad weather, a person needed a home. Several millennia ago, people developed various construction technologies, primarily dependent on the availability of the simplest building materials - stone and wood. For many peoples who inhabited the Earth along the perimeter of the equator before our era, wood and stone were in great shortage, they had to look for other building materials. About 6,000 years ago, a solution to the problem was found - from wet clay mixed with straw, bricks were created, dried in the sun, and buildings were erected from this simple structural material.
For the first time, bricks molded and baked in the sun appeared in ancient Egypt - for their production, Egyptian builders extracted clay from the bottom of the Nile River. Subsequently, the technology of creating clay bricks was borrowed from the Egyptians by the peoples of Ancient Persia, from where it spread throughout Asia, and then, together with the Moorish armies, penetrated into Spain. By the way, it was the Arab builders who gave the clay brick the name at-tob, which was changed centuries later by the Spaniards to adobe - in Russia its Turkic name “adobe” is better known.
The oldest architectural complex in Asia, made entirely of adobe, until 2003 was the Persian "fortress Bam" (Arg-e Bam), created around the 6th-4th century BC. NS. the Achaemenid dynasty. Unfortunately, at the end of 2003, the ancient Citadel was completely destroyed by a 6.3 magnitude earthquake, the epicenter of which fell almost on the territory of the old city. Note that the Iranian city of Bam suffered from an earthquake not only in the historical part, but also in the modern one - about 80% of buildings were destroyed.
The construction of buildings made of mud (i.e. clay) developed independently among the peoples of the American continent. The Anasazi (Pueblo) Indians erected multi-storey complexes of clay and straw in the southern part of North America, however, they did not make bricks - the prepared building material in a wet state was laid along the perimeter of the future building, as it hardened, a new tier formed on top, and so on. ...
In the state of New Mexico (USA), buildings built from adobe about 1000 years ago still exist and are used for living.
Adobe composition
Adobe blocks are made exclusively from natural materials without the use of any chemicals. These are mixed clay, sand, straw and water, which are the main substances. And additional ingredients that are added when needed include: tyrsa, wood shavings or chips, sometimes fresh cow dung is used.
The walls of a house made of adobe are famous for their energy efficiency and comparative cheapness. Most owners of adobe houses have appreciated the advantages of this natural building material: in summer, the house keeps cool by heating outside, and in winter it keeps warm, being exposed to subzero temperatures. Such an advantage is unlikely to be found in the properties of cinder blocks or bricks.
However, the disadvantage of an adobe house, as already mentioned, lies precisely in its sensitivity to water and moisture, therefore it is so important to find the right solution for a reliable and at the same time environmentally friendly cladding of its walls.
There are several options for decorating adobe houses outside:
Siding and composite cladding;
- building a house with a stone;
-facing with tiles;
-plaster coating followed by painting with facade paint;
- finishing "under a fur coat".
Fans of modern trends in the exterior decoration of adobe houses come to the decision to use siding coatings, often forgetting about the harmfulness of certain types of plastic. Usually siding attracts with its practicality in operation and hermetic protection from moisture and dampness of coatings. Although such a cladding of an adobe house is made using the technology of ventilated facades, nevertheless, plastic heated in the sun can emit harmful substances that eat into the walls. Most do not consider this moment a fact, however, in any case, if we compare living natural material and synthetic, the advantage in safety for human health will still be given to environmentally friendly natural building materials.
The imposition of a stone on an adobe house is considered an environmentally acceptable way to protect such a house from moisture, but it is not available to everyone at its cost. Often, a stone means the use of such materials: wild stone, artificial stone, shell rock, sandstone. The stone also has the natural ability to "breathe", while allowing adobe blocks to "live and breathe" as well.
Ceramic tiled cladding, although more laborious to work and less durable, but also, like stone, refers to environmentally friendly materials. But there is one "but" - it is tile adhesive for outdoor use, which can be quite toxic. Therefore, to achieve greater harmlessness in the decoration of external adobe walls, cement mortars are used, or anchor or wire fixtures and fixtures.
Plastering adobe walls, followed by painting, is a very eco-friendly way to tile your home. Plaster must be done using a special plaster mesh, which must first be fixed on fragile walls. Many people insulate walls using various insulation materials, such as special foam. Plaster is applied on top and after it dries, the walls are painted with facade paint. Environmental friendliness and durability of such a coating are guaranteed!
Finishing an adobe house from the outside "under a fur coat" is also referred to as a safe cladding method. In addition, this method is considered quite economical and affordable in terms of the cost of building materials for a "fur coat". The house is also well protected from moisture, and at the same time allows the adobe material to "breathe".
Thus, we see that four of the proposed five methods are the safest in order to cover and protect the walls of an adobe house from moisture and other unwanted influences.
Some building materials from which walls are erected immediately imply the need for exterior decoration of the house: the picture is very unsightly. Others may become less attractive over time. And the third case is extensive cracking, which is "treated" but the results remain visible. In all these cases, the question arises: "How to sheathe the house from the outside." Moreover, most often it is required to "sheathe" - without using a solution or other similar means that require a lot of money and time. I would like to do everything quickly and, very desirable - inexpensively, and even, if possible, with my own hands. Oddly enough, but the choice of materials and technologies is, and considerable.
Fundamental rules
When choosing materials for cladding a house from the street, be sure to remember that in order to maintain normal humidity in the premises, the vapor permeability of the materials must decrease from the inside to the outside. That is, the outdoor decoration should conduct steam better than the wall material. Then the high humidity, which is typical for our homes, will be discharged through the walls in a natural way (explanations in the photo).
If this principle is violated, moisture will accumulate at the border of materials with different vapor permeability. It condenses, creating conditions for rotting, the development of fungi and mold. In winter, it freezes, destroying the wall material and / or finishes. Sooner or later, such a system will have to be dismantled and redone.
The trouble is that only wood meets this requirement. Most of the other materials for the exterior of the house have low vapor permeability. The problem is solved in two ways:
Today, the second option is becoming more and more popular. Very effective heat-insulating materials have appeared, which can significantly reduce heating costs. But they have very low vapor permeability (polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam). When using them, only the second humidity control scheme is possible. When choosing how to sheathe a house, consider these points.
Wood cladding
Wood in construction and decoration is not used for centuries, and it looks like it will be relevant for a long time. All thanks to its excellent appearance and the ability to regulate the humidity in the room. This is perhaps the only material that will remove excess moisture without any problems, regardless of what material the walls are built from.
Wooden sheathing can have a completely non-standard look: different colors and sizes, different directions. It's simple, and the effect is amazing
The most popular wall cladding materials are block house and imitation timber. There is also a lining for exterior decoration - it has a greater thickness, compared to the one that is otherwise intended for the rest, is no different.
The block house imitates the surface of a rounded log - the front part has a rounded shape. Timber imitation is very similar to planed timber. Both types of cladding are attached to the crate, then sanded and coated with protective impregnations, if desired, they are also varnished or painted.
What lumber looks like for exterior cladding of a house
If you can't decide how to sheathe a foam block house from the outside, consider wood cladding. In this case, a crate (metal or wooden) is nailed to the walls. If necessary, a heater is placed between the strips - basalt wool (foam or expanded polystyrene cannot be used), and then wood sheathing is nailed.
This building is sheathed with imitation timber. Under the cladding there can be a brick, a log house, a frame or any of the building blocks.
If the cheapest option is needed, for most regions of Russia this is an ordinary planed board. Its thickness is from 40 mm, it is stuffed in the same way as the lining or block house on the crate, the lower end of the top board goes 10-20 mm to the one located under it. It turns out the principle of the bump. So you can cheaply revet a country house or even a residential one. With proper processing, such a cladding has a very good appearance.
How is it cheap to sheathe a house outside? For central Russia - a wooden planed board
The disadvantages of such a finish are the same as for any wood: it can be damaged by pests, rot, without proper care, it quickly loses its decorative effect, becomes dark and ugly. If you want to sheathe a house and not think about it for years, this is not your choice. Wooden sheathing requires maintenance, and, most often, annual.
Siding
In some regions, boards and other lumber are far from the most affordable materials. In this case, it is cheaper. This is the option when after finishing once, you can forget about it for a long time.
If you are thinking of how to decorate a house from a bar outside, perhaps your option is siding
Since the sheathing is nailed to the crate, the facade is ventilated. If you need to inexpensively finish wooden walls (from timber, logs, boards), siding is one of the options. It can also be used for a structure made of any other material: foam block, aerated concrete, slag filling, etc. This cladding is versatile.
Vinyl
Siding is made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and therefore it is also called vinyl. It consists of strips of material 205 and 255 mm wide, 1.1 mm and 1.2 mm thick. On the longitudinal edges there is a lock on one side, on the other - perforation for fasteners (self-tapping screws are more often used).
Siding is also attached to the crate. It is recommended to use special metal, but impregnated wooden blocks are quite suitable. Only regular start and side stripes will be needed. The only caveat: the self-tapping screws need to be slightly "undersized", leaving a backlash in order to compensate for temperature changes in materials. With this installation, the siding will not crack from the resulting stresses.
The advantages of this material for exterior cladding of the house: low prices, easy installation.
Disadvantage of vinyl siding: it fade quickly in the sun, therefore it is advisable to use dim colors. It has a fairly wide operating temperature range: from + 50 ° C to -35 ° C, but even in low frosts it becomes fragile and easily damaged.
One more point: houses sheathed with siding with a broken configuration look good. If the building is rectangular, without architectural frills, it does not have the most attractive appearance (as confirmed by the photo below).
If the building is just long, without reliefs and protrusions, siding wall cladding will not embellish it very much.
Metal
Metal siding is a strip of thin aluminum or galvanized steel, which is coated with a protective and decorative coating. Has the same mounting system as vinyl.
Sheathing a house with metal siding is simple: you can do it yourself even without much construction experience
The coating can be made of polymers. Differs in reliability, resistance to fading and other climatic factors. Its disadvantage is the limited choice of colors. The second coating option is powder coating. The color gamut is much wider, the paint lasts for years without signs of peeling.
If you are looking for an exterior cladding solution for your home that is durable and vibrant, you may want to consider one of the metal siding options. It can be bent, it is very difficult to break, installation is not very difficult: you need good scissors for metal, self-tapping screws, a screwdriver or a screwdriver. All mounting features are the same as for vinyl, with the only difference that the metal can be mounted at low temperatures.
It is not easy to harmoniously decorate a building clad with metal siding
From the point of view of durability, this is a good option, but from the point of view of aesthetics it is difficult to work with it: it looks too “production”. The building is more like a trip not to a residential building, but to a warehouse or some kind of workshop.
Basement
This is one of the varieties of vinyl siding, but it has a completely different configuration, appearance and greater panel thickness. It was developed specifically for decorating and protecting the basements of buildings, but it pleased my taste so much that it began to be used for cladding the facade. External design - for brickwork of different types and colors, with or without drawings, wild stone. Sometimes the imitation is so successful that you can only understand that this is not a brick cladding, but a vinyl one, by touching the wall.
It is mounted, like other types, on the crate, there are perforations and locks. The difference is that the basement siding panel does not look like a long rectangle, but a certain section of the wall with curly edges. It is with these curly edges that it joins. Accordingly, the crate must be adjusted to the size of the fragment. When installing, first, the edge of the panel is brought into the lock of the already installed one, they achieve a match, and then they are fixed. The main thing is that during installation, do not tighten the screws too much, leaving the siding to move with temperature changes.
The lathing can be made of treated wooden bars (protective impregnations) or from gypsum board profiles (galvanized). How to mount basement siding on a basement, see the video. Likewise, it is attached to the wall. Difference in area.
Fiber cement boards and siding
Relatively recently, new cladding has appeared on our market: fiber cement boards and siding from the same material. They consist of wood fiber, quartz, mica, cement, and may contain chlorine and asbestos (some materials used only for exterior decoration). This mixture is formed into sheets, then dehydrated in several stages, and fired according to some technologies. Then a protective and decorative coating is applied to the surface:
The coating can be smooth - glossy or matte, it can imitate brickwork, wood and other finishing materials. Installed on the mounting rails, fastened to the wall with clamps. This material may suit you if you do not know how to sheathe a frame house from the outside: it creates a continuous surface, the joints of the panels are sealed and precipitation will not get inside.
This house is also clad with fiber cement slabs.
How to fix fiber cement boards, see the video.
Fiber cement siding is produced using the same technology, only it is molded into long strips. They are mostly standard: 3600 * 190 * 12mm. This material is cut with a jigsaw, installed on a wooden crate with an overlap (according to the principle of a cone) and nailed to it or screwed in with self-tapping screws.
Thermal panels
Thermal panels are a material that performs two functions at once - cladding and external insulation of houses. A layer of decorative coating is applied to the thermal insulation layer at the factory. It is similar to marble or natural stone, does not burn, and has low water absorption characteristics.
This finishing material is made on the basis of foam, mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam. Depending on the type of insulation, the installation method is selected: expanded polystyrene and expanded polystyrene are glued to the appropriate composition. The joints are closed with a special aluminum strip or rubbed with paste.
On the basis of mineral wool, they are mounted only on a special system of profiles, the joints are also sealed.
A very attractive idea is to immediately insulate the house and veneer it. Excellent appearance, and the characteristics of such a cladding are impressive. It's just a pity that there is little operating experience and there are no reviews yet: it appeared quite recently.
There are also clinker thermal panels. Clinker tiles are glued to the insulation. The material is not cheap, but the performance is impressive, as is the variety of finishes.
Another option for thermal panels - with clinker tiles
The choice of materials that can be used to sheathe a house at any time - in winter or summer - is considerable. There are expensive options, and there are cheaper ones. In any case, besides the cost, be sure to consider vapor permeability. Then you don't have to deal with mold and dampness.
In order to protect from the rain, houses made of wood or adobe (clay with chopped straw) are often sheathed with boards that rot intensively. And plastering a wall containing organic matter is not only useless, but also harmful. The coating cracks, the wall stops "breathing" and a fungus appears.
A more reliable solution is the use of modern plastic lining (PV), plus competent wall ventilation. You can even lay insulation.
Here is a diagram of such a design (Fig. 1). Air through the ventilation hatch penetrates into the space between the cladding and the wall (or insulation), rises up and exits near the roof. In this case, it is important that the ventilation gap is at least 1-2 cm.
Cover it from above with fiberglass facade plaster mesh and nail it down with plastic washers (cut from 4 × 4 cm baklashki). We put a copper wire under the washers, tying the canvas.
We nail plaster shingles in the center. Maintenance of the wall is very simple: in the spring we open the hatches so that it dries properly, and we close it for the winter.
Attention!
It is impossible to use foam, pressed glass wool plates and mineral wool on aluminum foil for insulation - these are airtight coatings.
Decorating the walls of an adobe house and ventilation device: drawings
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