Filling floor slab. Do-it-yourself formwork for a monolithic floor

Casting a monolithic intermediate floor is not the easiest, but really versatile and time-tested method. In this article, we will talk about the main structural features and stages of the overlapping device, as well as the types of formwork, including fixed ones.

Building typology and scope

The main areas of application for monolithic ceilings are buildings with load-bearing walls made of bricks, block masonry or concrete panels, as well as domed houses. The requirements for the solidity of the floor may be due to:

non-standard building plan;
the need to significantly increase the bearing capacity of the floor;
increased requirements for hydro and noise insulation;
the need to provide a free layout;
reducing the cost of interior decoration.

Pouring is performed, as a rule, after the completion of the construction of the walls of the first floor. However, options for pouring monolithic ceilings already in buildings with a roof are possible, if weather or other conditions require it. In this case, I-beams are mounted on the masonry of the lower floor and a crown is poured along the perimeter of the bearing walls to the height of the ceiling. Also, to strengthen the mechanical connections, embedded fittings are released from the inner side of the crown to 40-50 cm. Its total section cannot be less than 0.4% of the section of the longitudinal section of the crown.

Structural design calculations

When choosing the span length, it should be related to the slab thickness as 30: 1. However, with an independent design, it makes almost no sense to make an overlap thicker than 400 mm, since the load-bearing capacity of the structure increases along with its own weight and static stresses. Therefore, the permissible load on self-made floors rarely exceeds 1500-2000 kg / m 2.

The situation can be corrected by the inclusion of I-beams in the supporting structure, laid on the concrete-leveled surface of the bearing wall masonry. Another way to increase the span while maintaining relative freedom of the layout is to support the floor on columns. With a monolithic structure thickness up to 400 mm and a span length in four directions from the columns up to 12 meters, the cross-sectional area of the support is 1-1.35 m 2, provided that the cross-section of the embedded reinforcement in the column is not less than 1.4%.

Calculation of the reinforcement of a monolithic slab

In general, the thickness of the slab is determined by the amount of reinforcing steel that is embedded in it. The density of the reinforcement, in turn, depends on the ultimate load capacity and crack resistance. Avoiding particular cases, we can give a general example of a design that demonstrates full compliance with regulatory requirements with a sufficiently high margin of safety.

In private construction, reinforced concrete is reinforced with reinforcement with a periodic profile of the A400 class, aka A-III.

Diameter of rods in slabs with thickness:

up to 150 mm - not less than 10-12 mm;
from 150 to 250 mm - not less than 12-14 mm;
from 250 to 400 mm - not less than 14-16 mm.

The reinforcement is laid with two nets with a mesh size of 120-160 mm, the thickness of the concrete protective layer from the edges of the slab is at least 80-120 mm, and at least 40 mm above and below. The direction of laying four rows of reinforcement, starting from the bottom: along, across, across, along. For dressing, galvanized wire with a thickness of at least 2 mm is used.

Installation of different types of formwork

The formwork must withstand a load of 500-1100 kg / m 2, including the dynamic effect of falling concrete. To create the plane of the formwork can be used:

Plastic sheets of reusable formwork.
Moisture resistant plywood with a thickness of 17-23 mm.
OSB 20-26 mm thick.

The edges of the slabs must adhere tightly to the walls; it is not allowed to use formwork with gaps at the joints of more than 2 mm, unless it is planned to cover the surface with a waterproofing film.

Sometimes it is reasonable to make the formwork permanent, using profiled sheets for this, orienting them with a narrow shelf down. They are placed along the slab so that the waves during pouring form numerous stiffeners. The thickness is calculated from the bottom rib, thus saving concrete mix is 20-25%. In this case, the height of the ridge should not exceed one third of the total thickness of the slab. If the formwork is not planned to be removed, self-tapping screws with a rubber washer are screwed into it and tied with a thin wire to the reinforcement.

The installation of the formwork begins with the placement of racks: it can be either steel telescopic racks with a tripod and a unilateral, or wood without defects with a cross section of at least 100 cm 2. Each strut should be tied to two adjacent slope ties from an inch board. The racks are mounted along the lines of the beams, the distance between which, depending on the thickness of the plate 150-400 mm, is:

190-240 cm with plywood thickness up to 20 mm;
210-260 cm with a plywood thickness of 21 cm.

In this case, the distance between the posts of one beam, depending on the gap between them, is:

from 140 to 200 cm with a span of up to 150 cm;
from 120 to 180 cm with a span of 160-210 cm;
from 100 to 140 cm with a span of 210-250 cm.

The main beams, as a rule, are made of 100x100 mm timber. Secondary beams are laid on them across with a step of 500-650 cm, which have a cross section of 50% of the main ones. If the formwork is made of profiled sheet, the spacing of the secondary beams is 3.5 times the distance between the waves.

The vertical formwork is assembled from retaining panels attached to the outer wall of the building. Often, blocks of aerated concrete with a thickness of 80-100 mm are laid along the perimeter to hide the floor belt.

Reinforcement and strapping

After the installation of the formwork, it is lubricated with a release agent and the installation of reinforcement begins. On the crowns and supporting ribs, the rods are tied into a square, keeping the minimum permissible protective layer on all sides. The main slab is reinforced with a mesh. The bottom layer is laid on plastic "crackers" that control the preservation of the bottom protective layer. The net is tied at the intersection of every third rod.

After tying the lower mesh, intermediate clamps are installed on it every 100 cm in a checkerboard pattern. To strengthen the support, end clamps are mounted on the walls. These features help maintain the design distance between two reinforcement planes.

The assembled upper mesh is tied to the lower connecting brackets. After completion of installation, the reinforcing structure should be as a whole and easily take the load from people walking on it.

Pouring concrete

Monolithic floors are poured with concrete of the B20-B30 brand, prepared under factory conditions. The filling of monolithic ceilings should be carried out in one stage, therefore filling the space with small doses is not recommended. If it is impossible to complete the entire volume of work at once, sections of the slab must be cut with a mesh with a cell of 8-10 mm.

The supply of the mixture to the ceiling can be carried out by a concrete pump or a volumetric bucket lifted by a crane. After being fed upstairs, the mixture is evenly distributed, seated by vibration and left to solidify.

Further actions

Concrete gains sufficient strength after 4 weeks, all this time it needs periodic wetting and protection from rain for the first 2 days. After drying, the formwork can be removed and the walls can be erected.

The construction of a house and a number of other buildings involves the obligatory arrangement of interfloor or attic floors. Often wood is used to accomplish this task. Wooden floors are easy to install, but if you need to provide high-quality insulation and soundproofing of the room, give preference to concrete floors. You can make a monolithic concrete slab yourself. Read the instructions and get started.

Before starting any work, it will be useful to familiarize yourself with the rules for laying monolithic slabs. The main recommendations are as follows:

the span length can be no more than 900 cm. This is the maximum permissible length of one monolithic slab;
to lift the slabs, you must use a special technique. In accordance with this requirement, hinges must be installed in the slab, catching on which the crane will be able to raise the product to the required height. Relevant for those situations when slabs are bought ready-made or made independently, but on the ground;
boards can only be laid on pre-leveled walls. There should not be any significant distortions and differences;
from each edge, the slab should rest on the wall by 9-15 cm;
the slabs are laid with the obligatory sealing of technological seams and, in general, all the cracks with the help of a solution. Dry styling is unacceptable;
in the process of installing the plates, you must constantly monitor the evenness of their laying. For verification, a plumb line and a level are used;
boards can only be laid on load-bearing walls. All kinds of piers are erected strictly after the completion of the arrangement of the floors;
if it is necessary to make a hatch in a monolithic ceiling, it is allowed to cut it only at the junction of two concrete slabs. Arrangement of a hatch in one reinforced concrete product is unacceptable;
the slabs are laid with a 2-3 cm gap.

If the length of one slab is not enough to cover the entire span, you can use one of the two available options:

lay the slabs back to back, leaving gaps around the edges of the room. At the end, the gaps will need to be filled with concrete blocks;
lay the boards not close to each other, but at regular intervals (20-30 mm). At the end, fill up the gaps with concrete, having previously secured the formwork under the ceilings so that the mortar does not fall down.

Formwork installation

The technology of arranging the slab involves the mandatory use of horizontal formwork. You can rent a ready-made formwork from a specialized company, or you can assemble the necessary structure with your own hands.

The first option is simpler and more convenient. Ready-made factory formwork comes complete with telescopic supports, which additionally saves time on the manufacture of supports.

The second option is more budgetary. For self-assembly of the formwork, use an edged board with a thickness of at least 2.5-3.5 cm.You can use moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of 2 cm or more.

Boards should be knocked down as tightly as possible. If there are noticeable gaps between the boards, the formwork must be covered with a waterproofing film.

Formwork set

Prepare the following tools for assembling the formwork:

boards;
plywood;
timber;
hammer;
hacksaw;
level;
nails;
axe.

Formwork installation

First step. Install vertical support legs. The best option is the adjustable telescopic racks made of metal. If they are absent, wooden logs with a diameter of 80 mm or more will do.

Install the racks in one-meter increments. The distance between the walls and the posts nearest to them must be at least 200 mm.

Second step. Place the ledgers on top of the support posts. This is a longitudinal beam, due to which the entire structure placed above will be supported.

Step three. Install the formwork on top of the girders. First, lay transverse wooden beams on the longitudinal beams, on them - boards or plywood.

Select the dimensions of the formwork so that its extreme edges abut against the walls without the formation of cracks.

Fourth step. The upper edge of the formwork must be exactly flush with the upper edge of the laid wall. Adjust the height of the support legs to meet this requirement.

Fifth step. Install vertical members. Since the edges of the floor slab should overlap the wall, place the vertical railing at an appropriate distance from the inner edges of the walls.

Sixth step. Check the evenness of the formwork using a level. Correct deviations if found.

To connect the formwork elements, use convenient fasteners, for example, pins or nails.

For the convenience of performing subsequent work, the formwork can be covered with waterproofing material.

Telescopic stands are preferred over their wooden counterparts because metal is much more reliable than wood. Each telescopic rack is capable of withstanding a load of up to 2000 kg without the appearance of deformations and cracks, as can occur in the case of a wooden beam.

Video - Installation of floor formwork

Reinforcement order

A monolithic floor slab is subject to mandatory reinforcement.

First step. Prepare the fittings. Select the appropriate bar diameter in accordance with the design loads. In most cases, rods with a diameter of 1.2-1.4 cm are used.

Second step. Lay the first reinforcement mesh at the bottom of the future monolithic slab. Lay the longitudinal and then the cross bars first. The optimal mesh size for such a mesh is 120-150 mm. If the floor area is small, you can increase the mesh size up to 200 mm.

Step three. Tie the bar joints with steel wire.

Fourth step. Lay on top a second reinforcing mesh similar to the first. Tie both nets with wire.

If the length of one rod is not enough, tie the additional rod with an overlap equal to at least 40 diameters of the reinforcement. That is, if you are using rods with a diameter of 12 mm, the overlap should be at least 480 mm.

Concrete preparation

For the initial pouring, a standard concrete mortar is prepared. The recipe is as follows:

2 parts sifted clean sand;
1 part coarse aggregate - you can use both crushed stone and gravel;
1 part of cement M400-M500;
water.

Add enough water so that the consistency of the solution is close to the consistency of liquid sour cream. A thin mortar will perfectly fill all internal cavities and crevices, due to which the slab will become truly monolithic.

The solution is most conveniently prepared in a concrete mixer. Load dry and hard ingredients first, and then add water gradually, if possible without stopping stirring.

In the absence of a concrete mixer, you can prepare the mortar in a large trough, but this is too long and rather difficult, especially in the absence of helpers.

Pouring the slab

The process of pouring a monolithic floor can be conditionally divided into 2 stages: spilling and finishing.

Spilling

At this stage, the initial concrete layer is poured. Pour the mortar in a measured and slow manner, abrupt movements are unacceptable, since this may distort the formwork.

Don't make the pour too thick. The main task of this layer is to fill in all existing cavities.

Smooth the finished filling with a shovel over the entire surface. Do this smoothly and carefully. This will remove excess air and completely fill even the smallest cavities.

Finishing fill

At this point, you need to prepare a separate solution. The recipe is the same as in the previous case. The only difference is that you need to take less water to make the concrete thicker.

First step. Pour a layer of concrete of such a thickness that it remains about 20-30 mm to the calculated thickness of the finished monolithic slab. Pour slowly and evenly.

Second step. Smooth out the fill with a shovel as in the previous part of the instructions. Leave the concrete for a couple of days and move on to the next step.

Step three. Prepare a mortar with 1 part cement and 3 parts sand. No large placeholder is needed at this stage. Add water to make a medium thick slurry.

Fourth step. Fill the stove to the end with the solution prepared in the previous step. During the pouring process, level the slab using a rule until a perfectly smooth surface is obtained.

This completes the pouring of the monolithic floor. You will only have to monitor the condition of the pouring for a while, so that the concrete hardens and gains strength without unnecessary problems.

Concrete care after pouring

In the process of concrete hardening, a large amount of heat will be released, under the influence of which intensive evaporation of moisture will begin. Lack of moisture will cause the concrete to crack. Therefore, during the first few days after pouring, you will need to regularly wet the stove with water.

You can pour water in buckets (2-3 buckets per run) or through a hose with a spray. Previously, you can lay old rags (preferably burlap) on dried concrete and pour water on them. In hot weather, cover the poured concrete with polyethylene, because drying out too quickly may crack the board.

The formwork can be removed approximately 10 days after the last wetting. In general, the board will gain strength for 3-5 weeks. After this period has expired, it will be possible to proceed to the implementation of further planned construction work.

Thus, you can independently equip a monolithic floor. At the same time, you will spend much less money on the arrangement of the necessary structures than in the case of buying ready-made prefabricated plates. Follow the instructions and everything will work out.

Happy work!

Video - Do-it-yourself monolithic overlap

The overlap is a horizontally located structure dividing the rooms in height, with the upper part serving as the floor, and the lower part as the ceiling. Concrete (usually reinforced) is most often used as a material for construction, this is due to its ability to withstand constant and temporary operational loads. Such overlaps are valued for their reliability, durability, fire safety and significant strength, the only drawback is their high weight. Regardless of the chosen installation technology, the process is laborious, it is difficult to carry out it yourself: you will need at least two assistants and special equipment (for lifting concrete products).

Types and requirements
Features of the concrete structure
Placement instructions

Overview of varieties

According to their intended purpose, these structures are divided into:

Basement or draft - placed between the basement and the first floor.
Interfloor.
Attic.
Attic.

Depending on the construction technology used, such concrete floors are distinguished as: monolithic (solid) and prefabricated. The former are created by pouring mortar onto a placed rebar frame. This method does not require lifting equipment, all the work can be done independently, but it is better to attract assistants to prepare and fill the formwork with concrete. In the second case, concrete floor slabs of a certain size, most often hollow, are laid on the armopoyas. The layout is thought out in advance, like the type of slabs, they generally have standard dimensions (up to 7 m in length, 1.5 in width, 22 cm in height). Distinguish between hollow, ribbed and monolithic structures, the latter, in order to reduce weight, are often made of aerated concrete.

Basic requirements for floors:

Unlike wood, concrete blocks are heavier, so they are not placed on walls less than 200 mm thick.
When calculating the load, both the weight of the structure itself and the furniture and items to be placed are taken into account.
Ceilings are selected not only with high strength and rigidity, but also with good soundproofing properties.
Often they are erected between rooms with different temperature parameters; in order to reduce heat loss, it is better to foresee the installation of mineral wool or other insulation in advance.
Absolutely all building materials used for construction must have fire-fighting properties.

Description of the structure

When choosing a filling option, the main attention is paid to the reinforcement of the floor, the load-bearing elements are metal beams (I-beam, channel). It is allowed to make a frame from rods with a diameter of at least 10‒12 mm; for this purpose, a regular checkerboard pattern with a step of 200 mm is used. For pouring, concrete with a strength of 200 is needed, this stage of work is best done in one day.

There are regulatory tables for choosing the diameter of the reinforcement (depending on the width of the spans and the expected weight load), but given the low quality of modern rolled metal products, it is recommended to buy material that is at least 2 mm thicker. At the same time, the layout of the cells remains unchanged, it is advisable to use whole pieces, in extreme cases - to weld individual sections (and not tie them up with wire). Such concrete floors have no deflections and shape restrictions, but to acquire sufficient reliability, special care of the surface is required and waiting for a certain period of time until the mortar is fully cured.

It is more difficult to lay the finished reinforced slabs with your own hands, in this case a preliminary calculation is made, the selection and purchase of material with the required dimensions, the optimal layout of their placement is thought out. Installation is quick, such ceilings have high bearing capacities, commissioning is possible almost immediately. A significant limitation for independent work is the need for lifting equipment; to place a reinforcing belt requires at least expert advice. The only option for laying such a floor with your own hands (without using the services of construction firms) is to rent a crane and attract assistants.

Concrete panel mounting technology

Preparatory work begins at the stage of erecting the walls: at a certain height, the masonry is not completely carried out, part of the space remains for a monolithic armored belt. The depth of support of the slabs depends on the thickness of the floor, taking into account the future thermal insulation, and ranges from 70 mm for steel structures and 120 for surfaces made of porous materials. They do not go into walls made of large concrete blocks deeper than 120 mm, from brick - 160 mm.

The process of pouring an armored belt resembles foundation work: a formwork is installed, inside which a strong frame-strapping should be made of rolled metal, then everything is filled with a cement-sand mortar (without crushed stone). This stage is mandatory, along the entire perimeter of the room to be divided, a structure appears that is more durable than the walls themselves, it is easier to carry out it when laying the basement. In the latter case, an additional formwork is simply installed at the extreme edge of the foundation, the mortar consumption increases slightly.

Further, with the help of a crane, concrete floor beams are placed, the rough part is the top, the smooth part is the bottom. All further steps are quite do-it-yourself. There may be problems associated with the size of the blocks, it is not always possible to cover the entire space. In this case, the slabs are laid out with an indent of half the remaining free space, and the resulting gaps are filled with scraps of reinforced concrete or cinder block and filled with the same cement-sand mortar as for the armopoyas. To simplify adhesion when laying, insignificant gaps are allowed, but not more than 5 mm, but it is advisable to avoid them. According to the attached instructions, installation of heavily damaged slabs during the construction of multi-storey buildings is not allowed, but minor defects and cracks will not affect the reliability of the structure in a low-rise building.

In any case, defective elements are placed on the walls 10 cm deeper than whole ones, it is better to place defective areas taking into account the hit on future internal partitions, they are also mounted between whole panels. The question often arises: how to make a concrete floor reliable, for this purpose, experts recommend strengthening the joints with metal rods (this procedure also contributes to a more durable connection with supporting structures).

The horizontal level must be monitored, the maximum permissible deviations of two adjacent surfaces are: up to 8 mm with a slab length of up to 4 m, up to 10 with an average size, and 12 mm for monoliths from 8 to 16 m. The thickness of the concrete mortar under the edge of the slab should not exceed 20 mm. It is advisable to make additional thermal insulation of the ends, in particular, the areas of contact with the walls, all possible voids are filled. This stage is very important, if you ignore it, condensation accumulates in the cavities, the reinforcement in the ceiling rusts, the walls and ceilings become damp.

stroitel-list.ru

22-12-2013
8025 views

Here are some of the requirements for ceiling slabs:
Beamed ceiling
- The work will consist of several stages:
Tiled ceiling slab
Concrete slab construction technology
- The work will consist of the following stages:

Building an apartment building is not an easy task, especially if you want to do all the work yourself. Why is there construction! Sometimes even a simple repair is beyond the power of many. So if you want to do the repair yourself, then this review will give you some help. If not, just contact the premises repair service. They should help you there.

To build a house yourself, you need to be a skilled handyman. Such construction will include many stages.

For the construction of private houses, beam floors are predominantly used, since its installation is less laborious.

Now let's turn to how to make overlappings with our own hands. At the initial stage of construction, it is imperative to determine what type of ceiling slab will be. After all, they are very different. The method of finishing the ceiling surface will also directly depend on the type of overlap.

To strengthen a wooden beam, it is enough to glue the carbon fiber in the required number of layers. Its installation is carried out on epoxy glue.

The ceiling should be as reliable as possible. That is, the load-bearing capacity of the floor must be sufficient to hold the entire load on the building well. This parameter is calculated to the smallest detail even at the construction stage.
The ceiling must be rigid. Moreover, it must have such rigidity that no deformations occur. After all, just colossal loads are pressing on him.
The slabs should isolate sound and heat dissipation. These parameters are especially relevant if there is another room or an attic above the ceiling.
Ceilings must provide maximum safety for people living in the building. They must also be fire resistant.

So we have considered the basic requirements related to ceiling slabs. Now you need to familiarize yourself with the types of floors. The most common at present are: tiled and beamed.

Back to the table of contents

Basically, in the construction of private houses, it is the beam floor that is used. For self-construction, this type is the most optimal. Therefore, you should pay attention to it. Here are some of its features. Such an overlap is based on wooden beams, the entire structure rests on them. In turn, the beams cling to the load-bearing walls. To make such an overlap, you will need beams, wedges, clamps.

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Diagram of the attic floor device. The gap between the ceiling and the floor of the attic is most often not insulated.

The first step is to make a section on these beams. The distance at which it will go depends on how wide the binding is. Plus, the maximum load on the ceiling is taken into account. If you chose the beam type of flooring for the construction of your house, then keep in mind that you need to choose the type of wood with the utmost rigor. The strength of the structure will depend on it. Of course, you can take any trees, both coniferous and deciduous. But it is the material itself that should be carefully considered. Before being used in construction, it must be thoroughly dried. The drying time for the tree should take 3-4 months. After you choose the material you want, you can start laying. Remember that all beams must align with the plane. The material is carefully checked before laying. There should be no cracks or any other defects in the wood. If there are any, then the beam will have to be replaced.
Align the beams. If the beams have different thicknesses, then tarred boards are placed under them. Under no circumstances should untreated wedges be used. Clamps must be installed at the joints of the beams. Clamps can be made of metal. If there are none, then you can use small boards, the thickness of which is less than 40 millimeters. It should be borne in mind that wood is highly flammable, therefore, when installing the floor, observe all fire safety requirements. Position the boards so that the distance from them to the chimney is at least forty centimeters.
In order for the beam floor to serve you for a long time, after laying all the material must be treated with an antiseptic. These are the features of the beam-type ceiling ceiling.

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Scheme of the structure of a monolithic reinforced concrete floor.

This type of overlap is used when building apartment buildings or public buildings. But it can also be used in private construction, for example, if you need to build a garage. It is quite difficult to mount such a ceiling. Mainly because the slabs are very heavy and large. Therefore, it makes no sense for one person to take on such work. But, despite the difficulties in installation, this type of overlap has undeniable advantages. The stoves do not burn in a fire, they are very durable and strong. If you lay them strictly in accordance with GOST, then such an overlap will give us a very even and smooth surface, which will not need to be sanded later. In order to make such an overlap, you can use solid slabs and those that have some void inside. Such slabs are made of concrete, they can be of different gravity. For example, a concrete slab slab, inside which there is an empty space, well insulates the room from extraneous sounds and does not give off heat. These slabs are much easier to install because they are lighter in weight. Such slabs are monolithic and prefabricated.

http://youtu.be/_AjB8eaYsrk

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With this type of ceiling, you can make the ceiling perfectly flat. Not everyone can make an overlap, here you have to approach work very responsibly. In order to do this work, we need: concrete, reinforcement, slabs, insulation.

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Structural diagram of a frequently ribbed reinforced concrete floor.

First, you need to determine at what depth the slabs will rest. Accurate calculations can be made based on the material from which the support is made. If the material has a small bearing capacity, then the surface of the slab that rests on it should be larger. For example, if the slab rests on a brick wall, then the depth of support should be about 90 millimeters. If the walls are block, then 120 millimeters. If the walls are steel or reinforced concrete, then at least 75 millimeters.
The slabs can now be laid. Perhaps a beginner will not be able to make the ceiling perfectly flat. Although you can try. Usually only professional craftsmen differ in this skill. And they are proud of him. Do not hope that finishing will correct uneven styling, so take this stage very responsibly. There are some techniques that can help make the styling, if not perfect, then almost bearable.

So, if we are laying the basement floor, then it will be easiest to achieve an even laying. First, level the topmost edge. To do this, we will set the formwork according to the level so that it forms a flat plane. We cover this area with an even layer of concrete. Then it is on this concrete that we will lay the slabs. It's simple. The ceiling will be smooth and even. Although you will have to work a little on the seams, this work will not be difficult.

The advantage of the system of metal-wood beams is the spatial design, which allows you to easily lay any communications.

If you need to make a partition between floors, then to ensure high-quality installation, you must first make a belt of reinforced concrete. This is usually done in areas where earthquakes are frequent. This is how it is done. After we have built the wall of the desired height, we additionally make a few more rows. After that, we make the formwork from plywood or any other durable material. It is in this niche that we will pour the concrete solution. This will make the ceiling very durable. After we have done this work, you can start laying the slabs. When laying, do not forget to leave small gaps, later you will need to put insulation there.

3. Let's move on to warming the ends. Reinforced concrete conducts heat much more actively than walls, so it should not be allowed to leave the room. To do this, we need to organize insulation. To do this, we insulate those parts of the wall where it is in direct contact with the concrete slab. It is necessary to make insulation, because in this way we will prevent the formation of condensation. The formation of moisture is very bad for the condition of the ceiling and its appearance. After all, no one wants to see their ceiling covered with rusty stains. Rusty stains are very difficult to remove. Those who fought them know this very well. These stains will show through layers of paint, putty or primer. Therefore, it is important to prevent their formation right away.

http://youtu.be/OGpMp0_N-zI

All of these ceiling construction methods are very time consuming. It is almost impossible to do this kind of work quickly. Using these methods of installing ceilings, you can significantly save on materials if you abandon drywall. Also, your living space will increase, such a ceiling will be 15 centimeters higher, so the room will be lighter and more spacious.

1popotolku.ru

How to make and fill the floor with your own hands

When building private houses, many people tend to perform certain operations on their own, without the involvement of specialized companies.

Overlapping device over the cesspool and drainage well

And even such a complex procedure as do-it-yourself concrete floors can really be done with high quality and on time. There are a number of compelling reasons for consumers to take action like this:

Significant savings in financial resources and a decrease in the cost of the entire facility;
Refusal to use expensive lifting equipment (especially important in hard-to-reach places);
The ability to make a concrete floor that is clearly suitable in terms of architectural and engineering parameters;
The durability of the systems, their fire resistance and reliability;
The absence of assembly seams minimizes finishing operations.

DIY technology for making concrete floors So, when making a concrete floor, you need to perform the following operations.

Firstly, it is required to make high-quality and reliable formwork that can withstand a large mass of concrete mortar and not deform at the same time. When determining the material for the formwork, it must be remembered that the own weight of liquid concrete is 500 kilograms per square meter, with a layer thickness of 200 mm.

It is best to use laminated plywood (20mm) and wooden beams with dimensions of at least 10 x 10 centimeters for the manufacture of formwork.

All load-bearing beams, ledgers and formwork supports must be perfectly assembled. Distortions or deviations of the structure from the horizontal are not allowed - this can cause an increase in the consumption of building concrete and an increase in the volume of construction work.

The formwork should be laid not only over the entire area of the room, but also around its perimeter, so as not to allow the concrete mixture to fall out.

After the formwork is ready, they begin to reinforce the concrete floor. For this, it is necessary to use fittings of type A-III, A400, A500. The number of rows of reinforcement must be at least four.

The lowest layer lies across the span on special plastic croutons with a height of 30mm. Moreover, the reinforcement with its free ends must rest on the supporting structure with a contact plane of at least 120mm. Next, the next row of reinforcement along the span is laid on the bottom layer.

The upper transverse and longitudinal layers are laid in the same way. All intersections of the reinforcement must be secured with a special tying wire. The separator of the upper and lower meshes can also be made of reinforcement, its task is to tightly fix the entire formed structure to each other.

It should be noted that the uppermost point of the resulting frame should recede from the upper edge of the formwork by 25mm. The spacing of the reinforcement and its diameter are calculated based on the loads of the concrete floor. As a result, a strong metal frame should be obtained, laid on the load-bearing walls of the room and having good fixation, so that when pouring a heavy concrete composition, its deformation does not occur.

The next step is the direct pouring of concrete. This procedure should be carried out in one go, all the concrete should be evenly placed over the entire formwork area. In this case, it is very important to vibrate the mixture for a denser shrinkage.

Concrete supply can be carried out manually or with the help of special concrete pumps that allow the mixture to be supplied to a considerable height (10-12 meters). After completing the concrete work, the entire slab is covered with plastic wrap to prevent natural precipitation from penetrating the concrete.

Naturally, the concrete composition can be made independently by mixing cement, sand and crushed stone, but the most effective option is still to purchase the required amount of concrete from specialized companies.

This is what makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous mixture, made in compliance with the entire technological process. The cycle of complete setting of the concrete slab is about 30 days, therefore, it is not recommended to remove the formwork during this entire period, and the outer layer of the concrete slab must be constantly moistened with water. After the end of the entire technological process, you can proceed to further construction operations (roofing, construction of the next floor, etc.).

Calculation of parameters

DIY concrete floor

To get a high-quality concrete floor with your own hands, you must use concrete grade (M250-M400), which includes heavy fillers. The frost resistance class must be at least F50 (the number of freezing and thawing cycles of a concrete slab). Concrete floor slabs are very critical structures, therefore it is recommended to make a careful calculation of these products. To carry out settlement operations, it is recommended to compare two main parameters:

The span length is 2 meters - the diameter is 110 millimeters;

The span length is 2.5 meters - the diameter is 130 millimeters;

The span length is 3 meters - diameter is 140 millimeters;

The span is 3.5 meters long - 160 millimeters in diameter;

The span is 4 meters long - 170 millimeters in diameter;

The span length is 4.5 meters - the diameter is 190 millimeters;

The span length is 5 meters - the diameter is 200 millimeters;

The span length is 5.5 meters - the diameter is 210 millimeters;

The span is 6 meters long - 230 millimeters in diameter;

Now we find out the diameter if the overlap step is exactly one meter:

The span is 2 meters long - 130 millimeters in diameter;
The span length is 2.5 meters - the diameter is 150 millimeters;
The span is 3 meters long - 170 millimeters in diameter;
The span is 3.5 meters long - 190 millimeters in diameter;
The span is 4 meters long - 210 millimeters in diameter;
The span length is 4.5 meters - the diameter is 220 millimeters;
The span is 5 meters long - 240 millimeters in diameter;
The span length is 5.5 meters - the diameter is 250 millimeters;
The span length is 6 meters - the diameter is 270 millimeters;

The optimal span is considered to be a span that has a length of 2.5 to 4 meters.

So, when you have decided on the cross-section of the beam or the diameter of the log, you can begin to arrange the structure.

First, any waterproofing material is applied to the ends of the beams, for example, roofing material. They are wrapped in just two layers. However, the end of the beam does not need to be covered with anything, otherwise the beam will simply rot.

Beams must be laid on the wall with the smallest skid of 15 centimeters. As a rule, the beams are placed in specially machined niches in the wall. The depth of such a niche should be at least 17 centimeters. 15 to lay the beam itself and two to leave a free distance between the beam and the wall, otherwise the beam may rot if not left.

The beams are laid with the same step that was taken as the basis for calculating the cross-section of the beam.

So, after the beams are fully secured, you need to arrange the crate. Sheathing boards should be used with a minimum thickness of 25 millimeters.

The boards should be processed so that all sides are very even, as there should be no gaps during installation.

After the boards are nailed down, you need to put insulation material between the beams. Mineral wool can be used as such a material. Styling can be done quite simply.

First, thick construction paper is laid on the boards. Then the insulation material is rolled out. Then you can put some kind of fabric on top and press it with slats.

If the overlap is interfloor, then boards are stuffed on top, which will serve as the basis for the floor of the second floor.

Foam plastic can also be used as an insulating material. However, its main disadvantage can be considered that it does not breathe, that is, it does not allow air to pass through. This causes the planks and beams to rot.

Expanded clay can become the third insulating material. Its main disadvantage is its weight. When laying expanded clay, you make the floor even heavier, in addition, the expanded clay itself will create an additional load of about 350 kilograms per square meter of floor.

After all this, you still need to waterproof the entire floor. In this case, you can use any plastic film.

yegorka.com

How to make a concrete floor

Slabs are one of the most important structural elements of a home. They connect the basement to the room, the first floor to the second, the roof to the house, etc. How to make a concrete floor for a house with your own hands?

There are several types of concrete floors: monolithic, often ribbed, prefabricated, filigree. For a private house, it is better to make a concrete floor often ribbed. It has less weight than monolithic, and it is easier to perform. Or you can use ready-made prefabricated slabs. Longitudinal voids in slabs allow to reduce the weight of products.

1) Craftsmen offer several ways to make overlaps. The easiest is to pour concrete directly onto the wood flooring. You will get a monolithic overlap. True, the beams need to be replaced with metal ones. You will also need to install reinforcement, the ends of which should be located on the load-bearing walls of the house. The reinforcement is laid out in the form of a grid, at the intersections it is fastened with wire. Such an overlap should be the same over the entire area, about 10 cm thick. It will take about those weeks for the concrete to harden.

2) Another way to make a concrete floor for a house. First, we make the formwork from a 25 mm plank. Runs should be done at a distance of 50-70 cm. Then we put waterproofing on the formwork, for example, plastic wrap or roofing material. It is advisable to secure the film with a stapler. Now we lay the concrete, level it. It is better to cover the top with a film so that it dries out gradually and does not crack.

3) The frame is welded from metal, the reinforcing mesh is laid on the floor. The floor itself is supported by load-bearing walls and internal partitions. Then concrete is poured, always at one time. For good shrinkage of the concrete, you need to tap on the formwork.

4) Sometimes corrugated board is used to perform overlaps. It is used as a permanent formwork. At the same time, concrete is reliably protected from external irritants. But even in this case, one cannot do without the use of reinforcement, the formwork from the corrugated board is laid on the reinforcing beams.

5) Flat monolithic slabs can be used to make a concrete floor. It is better to take small slabs so that several people can lift them up. For large slabs, you will have to use the technique.

6) With the help of a profiled sheet, you can make floor slabs with your own hands. The formwork is poured from the profiled sheet on the ground. Do not forget to concrete hooks into the slab, with the help of which you can then use a jack to raise the slabs.

7) An excellent material for floors is polystyrene concrete. Slabs made of this material are lightweight, not inferior in strength to reinforced concrete slabs. Their acoustic qualities, thermal characteristics and other physical signs are no worse.

All of the methods we have listed for making concrete floors are quite affordable for any home owner. It is only important to know the properties of concrete, the rules for pouring it, the conditions for high-quality drying. This is one of the most affordable floor materials.

When constructing buildings of two or more floors, the installation of floor slabs is an integral part of the work carried out. Most often, of course, PC floor slabs are used, manufactured at the factory, which, after pouring the armature belt, rest on it. However, in some cases, preference still has to be given to doing all the work with your own hands.

There are cases when it is impossible to use ready-made factory plates. For example, if the building has non-standard dimensions or shape and cutting the floor slabs will not completely cover the entire required area. Then the only option is to fill it yourself.

If, due to the limited size of the construction site or difficulties in accessing it, the use of a crane is unrealistic, then you can also fill the floor slab with your own hands.

The advantage of doing it yourself

Although the implementation of such work is a laborious process, nevertheless, it has a number of advantages, thanks to which, even having the opportunity to use factory plates. Some still prefer to make a floor slab with their own hands.

The advantages of making it yourself:

Monolithic overlap structure, no seams, joints. Thanks to this, the load is evenly distributed over the entire slab, the walls of the building, as well as the foundation.
Possibility of non-standard layout of the house. Filling the slabs on your own allows you not to adjust the dimensions of the house and the layout to the dimensions of factory products.
No need for heavy equipment.
The ability to significantly reduce costs by performing most of the work with your own hands.
There is no need to fill the armored belt, in the case of using factory reinforced concrete, a belt is needed under the floor slabs.

Formwork installation

There are two options for the construction of horizontal formwork: renting a plastic or metal formwork, as well as performing work on the installation of formwork under the slab on your own.

Work begins with the installation of vertical racks, on which the entire structure and a monolithic floor slab will rest. These racks can be rented or used. They are good in that their height can be adjusted and they can be used for any floor height. The distance between the posts should be about a meter. It is necessary to place a longitudinal beam on the racks, which will support the entire structure.

This is followed by the installation of the framework. To do this, it is necessary to use a bar with a section of 15 * 5 cm. The frame is constructed along the perimeter of the building, and to ensure greater reliability, transverse bars are additionally placed. Each next cross beam is mounted at a distance of about 70 cm from the previous one.

Preparing the surface for pouring

After the construction of the frame, it is necessary to prepare the surface for pouring. To do this, boards or plywood are laid on the frame (the first option is cheaper, but thanks to the second, you can achieve a flat surface of the ceiling of the lower floor). These boards should be flush against the wall so that there are no gaps. After that, it is necessary to level the surface with the help of support posts so that the top of the formwork exactly coincides with the edge of the wall lined with brick or foam block.

Next, the vertical part of the formwork is mounted. At the same time, it must be remembered that the slab should go some distance onto the expelled wall. In order for the formwork boards to be used for other purposes after removal, it is better to cover them with plastic wrap.

We apply reinforcement

If factory products are used for overlapping, then the arrangement of an armored belt is mandatory for buildings from blocks. The reason for this is the fact that under the weight of the slabs, due to the uneven shrinkage of the building, serious cracks in the walls can occur in the future. In this case, the reinforced belt will ensure that the entire mass of the slabs is evenly distributed over the walls of the building. The armopoyas device looks like a strip foundation, which is supported by the walls of the building.

However, if you pour the floor slab, then the resulting monolith will evenly distribute the load on the walls and protect against cracking. Therefore, the need to build an armored belt when doing work with your own hands disappears.

How to reinforce monolithic floors? For this, it is necessary to use steel reinforcement with a diameter of 10-14 mm. For reliability, concrete is reinforced with two nets: one is located at the bottom of the poured platform, the other at the top. The reinforcement frame should be with a cell width of either 15 or 20 cm. For small buildings, a mesh with a cell of 20 * 20 cm will be quite enough.

If the length of the reinforcement rods is not enough to completely cover the entire overlap distance, then the rods should be overlapped by 40 cm. It is also desirable that each next row has a reinforcement joint at the other end of the overlap. After laying all the reinforcement, it must be tied with a knitting wire.

The mesh should extend onto the walls of the building by at least 15 cm (if the walls are brick) or 25 cm (for aerated concrete walls). Since when pouring a slab, an armored belt is not provided on its own, it is very important that the reinforcement goes into the walls. The lower mesh must be raised 2-2.5 cm above the lower floor level. The upper mesh is located at the same distance from the top of the cast platform.

When preparing the site for pouring concrete, it is important not to forget about the cavities for laying wiring and communications.

Upon completion of work with the reinforcement of the slab, concreting of the floor follows.

Pouring with concrete

It is best to use concrete ordered from the factory for concreting the slab. This will save time and effort, as well as provide a uniform partition and improve strength. If the overlap is poured quickly and evenly enough, and this is achieved with the help of a concrete pump, the solution does not begin to freeze early and due to this, the overlap can rightfully be called monolithic.

A deep vibrator must also be used to compact the concrete. It must be applied until the concrete stops settling and the release of air bubbles stops.

In order to completely fill all the gaps before filling the floor with concrete, first pour the pour. It is performed with a thin and slightly liquid layer. When this layer is compacted and evenly distributed, you can start filling the main layer.

Features at work

Some advise not to pour to the edge of 2 centimeters, and then after a few days, when the concrete grasps, use beacons to fill the remaining space with a liquid solution. This will allow you to achieve evenness and smoothness of the interfloor overlap. Self-leveling floors can also be used for these purposes.

If a do-it-yourself floor slab is made in winter, then the concrete must contain antifreeze additives. It should be remembered, however, that they have an effect on the curing time of concrete. Therefore, by far the best time for self-pouring a floor slab is the warm season.

Concrete hardening process

After the ceiling is poured with concrete, it cannot be said that all the work is finished and you can just wait for the slab to gain its strength. The process of solidification of the solution is inextricably linked with the evaporation of moisture, and this leads to the appearance of cracks in the concrete. In view of this, in the first time after pouring, you need to regularly water it with water. It is best to use a hose filled with water in this case, because lifting bucket after bucket to the height of the second floor is a thankless task.

If the concrete dries up in hot weather, sprinkling with water will not be enough, you need to cover the plate with polyethylene.

After the concrete has hardened, you need to remove the entire formwork. That this process is not so difficult, you should take care even at the stage of installation of the structure. If all the boards were covered with polyethylene, they can be used later.

As you can see, if desired, floor slabs can be made by hand. And although this process is laborious and time-consuming, the resulting plate strength is worth the effort.

When building a house with their own hands, each person is faced with the need to make, which will be found on every floor from the basement to the attic.

There are three options for such overlaps, each of which has its own nuances:

wood (round timber and timber);
slabs (reinforced concrete and hollow);
monolith (full and on metal beams).

The most difficult and expensive is the monolithic overlap, because it takes a lot of time (about a month), money and labor to make it. However, in the end, the design justifies itself 100%, because it is the most durable, has the best insulating properties, and also almost never requires even cosmetic repair.

In order to make a monolithic floor, you should decide in advance which type you like, because they have significant differences in all respects.

Differences will include reinforcement, concrete (thickness), support system and lead times.

A full-fledged monolith will cost much more, its construction will require much more effort and time, but the construction will stand for centuries. The thickness of the concrete in it will be twice the same characteristic of the fellow. But this option is not suitable for every floor. For example, it makes no sense to place it at the level of the basement floor, because concrete will be poured just like that.

If intermediate floors are installed on iron beams, each of them will be twice as thin, but the other half will be compensated for by the strength of the metal. In this case, the design will not last less than the previous one, but it will be much easier to create something from it. This type will suit any modern design. In addition, much less concrete, reinforcing rods and plywood will be needed.

Preparation for work

sheet A3;
pencil with eraser;
laminated plywood;
hammer with nails;
roofing paper;
supporting system (wooden beams 100 * 100 and metal spacers from 2 mm thick).

This concrete slab is installed exclusively as reinforced concrete slabs between the first and second floors, but not at the level of the basement or attic. The fact is that it makes no sense to put it at the level of the basement, and when installed above the second floor, it will already turn out to be excessively heavy. But in order for the results of the work to be of high quality, you should follow the order and clear sequence in each step.

Drawing up a work plan. At this stage, the device of the future scene of action is outlined, all load-bearing walls are determined and a selection of materials is made. But, as a rule, the set is standard, and everything is calculated so that you can make a purchase in advance. The outer side of the floor wall should be taken as the perimeter of the scene. the overlap must be firmly on its foundation. Do not allow deviations, because they can result in insufficient strength when the concrete is already poured. Concrete should always be taken of the same brand and in no case should it interfere with it. This rule is independent of the level.
Formwork manufacturing. When making it, first of all, it should be borne in mind that the device of all joints must be ideal. Each mm must be in a horizontal plane. The side panels will rise 0.3 m above the formwork level. In no case should you nail the side shields to the edge part of the pallet, because a concrete solution under pressure can pull them out and all the work will have to start over. All fastenings take place exclusively in the vertical part of the slab.
At this stage, a support system consisting of wooden beams and metal struts will be installed, which can be interchangeable if desired. Wooden beams are laid at the rate of 1 piece per 1 m², while spacers - 1 piece per 2 m². With such a ratio, there is no need to be afraid that the overlap will collapse. Do not forget that the pressure on each of them will be about 500 kg, and even more at the time of pouring (due to the impact energy when the concrete falls). After the entire system is installed, you should walk to each individual beam and check it again for stability. After that, you need to climb the formwork itself and walk along it with a firm step. There should be no reaction, as if it were a walk down the street. If deviations are felt, then they need to be found and redone, otherwise the concrete will make its way down.
If all is well, then you can proceed to the last part of the preparation. Waterproofing is carried out in two ways: using roofing roofing or plastic wrap. The material is lined on the formwork, leveled and compressed by something massive, so that it does not just fly away, but does not even change its shape. It is better to use roofing felt under concrete, because it has great strength and insulation parameters.

Reinforcement of the slab

reinforcing rod А500С;
soft wire;
roulette.

At this stage, work will be done on the reinforcement.

The first step is to decide on a reinforcing rod. It must be strong enough, but not too heavy, so that the reinforced concrete structures are kept at a height. The best option is A500C. When calculating, it should be taken into account that a double lathing is laid, which significantly increases the cost of material. It is produced as follows: the rods are laid out end-to-end against the wall in parallel with a step of exactly 0.5 m, after which exactly the same level of the rods is laid on them perpendicularly. Each intersection is tightly connected with a soft wire. The work is very long, but necessary.
After the first crate is completed, the second is done in the same way, but you should not tie them together. It is also worth remembering that each of them has a level. The lower one should be 25 mm above the level of the formwork, and the upper one should be exactly the same below the upper casting bar. To do this, bend improvised brackets from the same rod, which will be installed in the amount of 1 piece per 4 m², and all the reinforcement will be tied to them.
Once the installation is completely completed, you can start testing. The process will not take long, but you will need to check each rod for stability, and then shake all the reinforcement. If nothing has moved, we can assume that the work has been done conscientiously, but if deviations appear, they should be immediately eliminated and only then begin to pour concrete.

Pouring concrete for slab

concrete grade 400 and higher;
auto mixer with a hose;
supporting system (wooden beams 100 * 100 and metal spacers from 2 mm thick);
roofing paper;
shovel shovel;
bayonet shovel;
polyethylene film;
water;

Before starting pouring, remember that you should not even start to prepare the concrete yourself, because for a 10 * 10 slab, 28.5 m³ will be required, and it will be difficult to do it with your own hands in a day even for a whole team of builders. Here auto-mixers with a concrete supply hose are called to the rescue. When ordering, you should know in advance what the volume of the drum is (most often it is 8-9 m³). With this knowledge, it will be easier for you to calculate the amount of material required.
For this stage, the help of 1-2 people may be needed. In this case, the filling will proceed quickly and without interruption. During the pouring of the floor, one person must continuously move along the formwork and direct the concrete in different directions. This is required in order to make the pressure on the formwork even. If there are no assistants, then you will have to stop the pouring process from time to time and take up the shovel yourself. Each layer should be plowed to release any trapped air. This will have an extremely positive effect on the quality of the poured slab. The lowest level must be plowed very carefully, otherwise the waterproofing material can be damaged. It will be great to interfere during the process, because you will have to constantly step over it so as not to stumble.
When the concrete is poured, cover everything with plastic wrap and leave it for 27-29 days. During half of this time, one should not forget about wetting the plate with water so that it can fully gain its strength.
After the specified time has elapsed, the support system is removed, the polyethylene is removed, and the formwork is dismantled with scrap. The result is a perfectly smooth surface on the underside and slightly uneven on the top. This is then corrected directly at. With the right approach, such reinforced concrete slabs will not have a single deviation.

Monolith installation technology

beams (I-beams);
concrete grade 400 and higher;
laminated plywood 20 mm and thicker;
roulette;
reinforcing rod А500С;
soft wire;
roulette;
auto mixer with a hose;
shovel shovel;
bayonet shovel;
polyethylene film;
water;
hammer with nails.

This technology allows you to install the slab not only between the 1st and 2nd floors, but also over the basement floor. It is lighter and thinner, but no longer possesses the same strength parameters, although it has a number of other advantages. Partially the scheme will be similar.

In this case, the first thing to do is to install not formwork for concrete, but beams. They are mounted, if possible, through the narrow parts of the room, if it is not square. When installing, it should be borne in mind that, on average, the length of one beam is 6-8 m, and this can create significant discomfort if you do not secure in advance with an additional load-bearing partition. Each subsequent I-beam technology prescribes to place it at a distance of 1 m from the previous one.
Formwork is installed on the beams, the height of which is not 0.3 m, but 0.15-0.2 m. This is due to the fact that at this stage there is already a basic supporting structure.
The second difference will be the supporting system of the future floor, which will now require 1.5 times less, i.e. for every 1.5 m, one wooden beam, and for 3 m, one metal spacer.
The third significant difference is reinforcement. The reinforcement lies exactly in the center with just one lathing. All connections happen in exactly the same way.
Then everything ends in the same way as a full-fledged monolith, regardless of whether it is the level of the fourth floor or the basement. It is important to pour the concrete carefully as even though the future is reinforced with I-beams, the concrete stream can break out.

Beams can be used for your own personal purposes - wiring, niches, or anything else where space may be required. It is convenient to sheathe them from below with plasterboard, tk. they are basically at the same level and the profile guides are no longer required. Given the basement floor, it is best to conduct lighting through the beams from below, which ideally fits into the given conditions.

Device calculation methods

The volume of concrete is considered the easiest - area * height-5% (reinforcement). For a slab mounted on beams, the formula is completely the same. As a result, 100 * 0.3-5% = 28.5 m³. Based on average auto-mixers - 4 pcs. The concrete solution itself is mixed in a ratio of 1 part of concrete, 3 parts of sand and as much water as required.

Beams are more difficult to calculate than concrete, because they often have to be docked. But if you approach the calculation relatively roughly and imagine that the joints turned out with zero losses, but with additional expansion outside the structure, then it is ideal to use 6 m each.In this case, it turns out that prefabricated double beams need to be calculated, then the formula will come out 10 * 6 * 2 = 120 m (10 beams, each of which consists of two 6 m long).

Modern technologies make it possible to calculate the construction of a concrete slab up to the last nail. So, in the manufacture of formwork, nails are driven in in pairs every 0.5 m along the entire perimeter. The vertical formwork has only 0.3 m, but, nevertheless, this place will require additional strength, because of which 2 pairs will be driven into each rib. In total, the construction of the formwork for one floor will require 40 * 2 * 2 + 4 * 4 = 176 pcs.

Building typology and scope

non-standard building plan;
the need to significantly increase the bearing capacity of the floor;
increased requirements for hydro and noise insulation;
the need to provide a free layout;
reducing the cost of interior decoration.

Pouring is performed, as a rule, after the completion of the construction of the walls of the first floor. However, options for pouring monolithic ceilings already in buildings with a roof are possible, if weather or other conditions require it. In this case, I-beams are mounted on the masonry of the lower floor and a crown is poured along the perimeter of the bearing walls to the height of the ceiling. Also, to strengthen mechanical ties, embedded reinforcement is released from the inner side of the crown to 40-50 cm. Its total section cannot be less than 0.4% of the section of the longitudinal section of the crown.

Structural design calculations

The situation can be corrected by the inclusion of I-beams in the supporting structure, laid on the concrete-leveled surface of the bearing wall masonry. Another way to increase the span while maintaining relative freedom of the layout is to support the floor on columns. With a monolithic structure thickness up to 400 mm and a span length in four directions from the columns up to 12 meters, the support cross-sectional area is 1–1.35 m 2, provided that the cross-section of the embedded reinforcement in the column is not less than 1.4%.

Calculation of the reinforcement of a monolithic slab

In private construction, reinforced concrete is reinforced with reinforcement with a periodic profile of the A400 class, aka A-III.

Diameter of rods in slabs with thickness:

up to 150 mm - not less than 10–12 mm;
from 150 to 250 mm - not less than 12-14 mm;
from 250 to 400 mm - not less than 14–16 mm.

The reinforcement is laid with two nets with a mesh size of 120–160 mm, the thickness of the concrete protective layer from the edges of the slab is at least 80–120 mm, and at least 40 mm above and below. The direction of laying four rows of reinforcement, starting from the bottom: along, across, across, along. For dressing, galvanized wire with a thickness of at least 2 mm is used.

Installation of different types of formwork

The formwork must withstand a load of 500–1100 kg / m 2, including the dynamic effect of falling concrete. To create the plane of the formwork can be used:

Plastic sheets of reusable formwork.
Moisture resistant plywood 17–23 mm thick.
OSB 20–26 mm thick.

190–240 cm with plywood thickness up to 20 mm;
210–260 cm with plywood thickness from 21 cm.

In this case, the distance between the posts of one beam, depending on the gap between them, is:

from 140 to 200 cm with a span of up to 150 cm;
from 120 to 180 cm with a span of 160–210 cm;
from 100 to 140 cm with a span of 210–250 cm.

The main beams, as a rule, are made of 100x100 mm timber. Secondary beams, which have a cross-section of 50% of the main ones, are laid on them across with a step of 500–650 cm. If the formwork is made of profiled sheet, the spacing of the secondary beams is 3.5 times the distance between the waves.

Reinforcement and strapping

The assembled upper mesh is tied to the lower connecting brackets. After completion of installation, the reinforcing structure should be as a whole and easily take the load from people walking on it.

Pouring concrete

Further actions

Preparation for work
Stages of pouring a monolithic floor slab
Summing up the work on the installation of the stove

When building a private house, each person is faced with a number of difficulties that have to be overcome.

Today, a monolithic floor is the best way to make a partition between the floors of a building under construction.

One of the biggest difficulties is the pouring of a monolithic floor slab after the first floor has been erected.

For a monolithic slab, formwork must first be installed.

There are, of course, alternatives, but the slabs are not durable, and wood is not durable. This is what serves as a weighty argument towards a more expensive and painstaking option for working yourself.

On average, the actual production time is 40 days, 30 of which are passive and 10 are active. But if several people work at the same time, then the active period of pouring the slab can be reduced by 3-4 days. With this kind of work, you need to clearly follow a step-by-step action plan and not deviate from it for a day - this will save time and money.

Preparation for work

sheet A3;
pencil and eraser;
ruler;
roulette;
laminated plywood 20 mm or thicker;
nails not shorter than 50 mm;
hammer;
supporting system - metal spacers, wooden beams not less than 100 * 100;
roofing paper or polyethylene.

To begin with, it is worth preparing on all fronts for work and purchasing everything you need, and what you already have, get it from the storerooms.

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