Fruits and vegetables grown must be stored until the next season in order to provide themselves with food for the whole year. A dry and cool environment is required. Only a cellar made in accordance with all the requirements can cope with such a task.
Why ventilation is needed?
To store vegetables, do-it-yourself ventilation is installed in the cellar. The circuit must ensure functioning by creating a temperature difference outside and inside. Warm air currents go up, and cold air flows from below. How to make ventilation in the basement and cellar? This requires the creation of devices for the inflow of dry and outflow of moist air, for which pipes are usually used.
Increased dampness is not suitable for a cellar or basement. Moisture should be removed from them primarily by creating tightness and preventing leaks in underground utilities. The more water in the basement, the higher the loss of products during storage. In addition, a damp cellar has a negative impact on the microclimate in the house.
Natural and forced ventilation
In order to regulate air humidity, ventilation in the cellar was invented long ago. The detailed scheme includes natural and forced, although they may exist separately.
The first version of the natural inflow and exhaust system does not require energy consumption and is very popular. It does not require special professionalism and skills to make the ventilation of the cellar with your own hands. How to make it, they decide even when designing a building. Air vents are provided in any building.
This is simple and cost effective. They are covered from rodents with metal nets, and, if necessary, covered.
How to arrange ventilation?
Do-it-yourself ventilation of a cellar or basement is done in large rooms with a ceiling height of more than 2 m. The exhaust duct enters the cellar under the ceiling, and exits through the roof of the house, garage, shed, since warm and humid air accumulates at the top and needs to be removed.
Duct placement
The pipes are best placed next to a fireplace or stove. Then the thrust will be much greater. The inlet pipe also opens onto the roof, but its lower part is located in the opposite corner. The thrust will be better if the pipe is shorter or has a larger diameter. It is made 50-60 cm high from the lower level of the room. Then the cold air from the outside will flow into the lower part of the cellar. If the pipes are placed side by side, a limited area will be ventilated, and the rest of the room will be damp. They should have as few twists and turns as possible. Dampers are mounted on the air ducts to regulate heat exchange and humidity. How should the ventilation of the cellar be arranged with your own hands? The installation diagram is shown in the image below.
Pipe dimensions
The dimensions of the pipes are determined by the dimensions of the cellar or basement. For 1 m 2 of area, there should be 26 cm 2 of the cross-section of the duct. Then, for a room with an area of 6x8 m and a height of more than 2 m, the diameter of the boxes will be 40 cm. In addition, with an increase in the depth of the cellar, the section of the pipe should increase. For a small basement, one duct may be enough. It can be made of wood and divided into two parts - supply and exhaust. Having two pipes for it will also be an effective solution. From above, they are covered with visors from the ingress of precipitation.
Water vapor passing through the chimney freezes in winter, reducing the flow area. They try to insulate it, especially in places where it is backfilled with soil and exits to the roof. It will be better if you put on another pipe or casing from the outside with a gasket between them of thermal insulation, for example, mineral wool. A budget option would be to use an asbestos-cement pipe with the required strength and low thermal conductivity. It also condenses less moisture on it. During cold weather, the flow area of the chimney is cleaned to avoid clogging. For better traction, do it as high as possible.
Forced ventilation can be done without additional energy consumption. For this, a deflector is installed on top of the exhaust pipe. When wind appears inside the pipe, a vacuum is formed, which promotes additional air exchange.
How to control air circulation in the basement?
Forced ventilation of the cellar with your own hands is installed in addition to the natural one, if the latter cannot fully perform its functions.
The system is checked for the quality of work by bringing a lighted match to the lower hole of the hood. If it does not burn, then there is no circulation in the cellar and a lot of carbon dioxide. You can reduce its amount if you install a supply pipe with a large diameter. The presence of dampers on the air ducts allows you to regulate the intensity of air exchange and the temperature in the room. At the same time, there should not be stagnation or its cooling due to intensive circulation. An indicator of improper organization of the hood is the presence of condensation on the walls.
High-quality temperature control is ensured only with thermal insulation. In addition, without it, condensation accumulates on the concrete ceiling and walls. A budget solution would be sheathing with foam sheets. In this case, attention should be paid to the joints where moisture can form.
To arrange ventilation, you will need the following:
- PVC pipes;
- clamps;
- bolts, nuts.
Lightweight pipes hold securely to the walls. If they are made of metal, welding and fixing in the walls are better suited here. Wooden air ducts are treated with special compounds against decay.
A hole is made in the chimney (20-30 cm from the lower end) to drain the condensate. It is connected to a branch pipe connected to a container for collecting liquid.
Requirements for the storage conditions of products in the cellar
In order for a room to meet functional requirements, it must have the following conditions:
- Complete blackout. There should be no windows inside, and artificial lighting is used only when visiting the premises.
- The temperature inside during the warm season should be lower than outside.
- The moisture content in the air of the cellar should not exceed 90%.
- Constant air exchange is created by the correct natural air circulation in the cellar. It is necessary to prevent stagnation of air, but do not unnecessarily heat or cool it.
How to do ventilation in the cellar with your own hands. Installation diagram
If the basement is already covered, holes are punched from above in opposite corners for the installation of air ducts at the rate of 26 cm 2 / m2 of area. The exhaust air duct is lowered through the hole inward so that the lower end is under the ceiling itself, with an indentation of no more than 100-150 mm. Its upper part is taken out through the roof to a height of 150 cm. The supply air duct is led into another opening at a distance of 20-25 cm from the basement floor. Then the cracks are sealed with cement mortar.
Ventilation in the cellar: device, microclimate maintenance scheme
- Carrying out periodic ventilation. In a warm season, as well as before laying vegetables, everything that can be opened: hatches, doors and dampers on pipes. As a result, the cellar dries out.
- When the room is heavily saturated with moisture, all the wood is removed from it and dried under the sun. The cellar can be additionally blown out with fans for 3-5 days before the autumn laying.
- Excess moisture is removed by placing a container of quicklime in the cellar. If you light a candle in front of the chimney, the draft will increase and the ventilation will improve. It is effective to use electric heaters or home heaters in the middle of the cellar.
After drying, the walls and ceiling are covered with deep penetration impregnation, which is applied in layers. A waterproof surface is formed that only allows air and steam to pass through.
When the hood works normally, since the ventilation is done in the cellar with your own hands, the scheme provides for the usual ventilation. It is quite enough to create the necessary microclimate.
How to make a hood in a garage cellar correctly? The expert advice boils down to the following:
- In the cold period, the hood must be covered so as not to cool the basement. At the same time, a lot of moisture is formed in it, which negatively affects the safety of products. For ventilation, a steel or wooden grate is placed on the manhole and covered with old blankets and other rags. Warm air and steam escape through the pores without forming ice. At the same time, the dampness in the cellar is reduced and vegetables are preserved better. Materials with low porosity are not suitable for shelter (synthetics, tarpaulin, film).
- It is not recommended to overdry the cellar unnecessarily, as this negatively affects the safety of the products. Sometimes it is required To do this, sprinkle the floor with wet sawdust or sand.
- does not cope with its duties if the air temperature in the cellar and outside is the same. Then an electric fan is installed in the exhaust pipe, when turned on, the stale air is forcibly expelled from the room. This does not require much power. The additional device should not interfere with natural air exchange. For this, the diameter of the chimney is selected more than the calculated one.
Conclusion
You can make a comfortable room with optimal storage conditions for vegetables if you have natural ventilation in the cellar with your own hands. The scheme provides for the presence of two ducts - supply and exhaust, which must be correctly calculated and installed with the ability to adjust the flow sections.
Without a ventilation system device, not a single basement room can be limited, since if there is a lack of a constant flow of cool air, dampness cannot be excluded. In basements and cellars, as a rule, not only canned food is stored, but also fresh vegetables and fruits that "breathe", from which moisture will certainly accumulate in the room. In addition to this problem, the walls can suck in moisture from the ground from the outer edge if the waterproofing of the base of the house and the basement was poorly organized during construction.
- Hood ventilation pipe rises above the ridge for superior traction or embankments above the ceiling of the cellar, at least 1500 millimeters.
- For good ventilation, they often only use plastic pipes. assigned for the purpose of performing sewerage. For not very large rooms, such a diameter is usually sufficient.
- If the basement is located in front of a car garage or in front of another home place, then as an exhaust opening, it is allowed to operate the entrance opening.
In this case, 2 doors are made, one insulated - for winter, and the second - in the frame version, with a small mesh attached to it. The fence is needed so that small rodents do not make their way into the cellar.
The insulated opening is removed in the summer in order to continuously ventilate the cellar... If the room above the basement is insulated, in this case it is allowed to carry out airing sessions during the winter period.
Version - cellar in the basement under the house
Inlet pipe, narrowed by a grille
- It is recommended to install dampers stabilizing the intake and decrease of air in these two pipes, which is especially needed in the winter stage. They can help to measure the arrival of cool air in extreme cold weather and, therefore, decrease in warm air, to strengthen the required local climate in the cellar.
Umbrella for chimney head
If the pipe heads are placed exactly in a vertical position, they should be protected from the ingress of precipitation, dust and debris by defining a metal umbrella or a ventilation deflector on top. 
Natural ventilation based on the difference in pressure and temperature indoors and outdoors. Effective work largely depends on the correct placement of the pipes. So, the inlet opening must be at the top of a maximum of 250: 300 millimeters from the floor, and the exhaust outlet must be 100: 200 millimeters lower than the ceiling.
It is unacceptable to place it lower so far, otherwise the ceiling will get wet.
This ventilation method may be undoubtedly not enough for a large-sized cellar room, or if it consists of many rooms.
V method of forced ventilation there are always the same channels (pipes), however, fans are installed in them to form forced air movement.
In the lightest forced-type modes, the cooler is brought out to the exhaust duct. In a similar way, artificial milling is formed in the room, which promotes the proactive flow of cool air into the basement through the supply passage. The performance of the selected propeller will depend on the size of the room.
They also act differently - they put fans on both the supply and exhaust paths. This happens significantly in voluminous, complex basement rooms. Here you will certainly need the support of a professional in order to calculate the coherence of the intake and output of the atmosphere, that is, the diameters of the channels and the power (performance) of the fans installed in them.
For each type of ventilation, it is imperative to correctly make your choice with the pipe diameters. The calculation methods used by high-class designers are very difficult, and it makes almost no difference to present them in full. However, when installing ventilation in a small private cellar, it is allowed to use a simple counting methodology.
So, with certain assumptions applicable in the information criteria, it is allowed to assume that for the purpose of 1 square meter of the cellar section, 26 square cm of the section of the ventilation channel is needed. So, you can estimate for a sample what pipe diameter will be needed for a cellar with a scale of 3, multiply 2 meters.
We find the area of the room:
S = 3 by 2 and = 6 square meters
According to the confirmed compliance, it will require a pipe of the following size:
T = 6 times 26 = 156 square centimeters
It remains to find this pipe radius:
R = root (T divided by PI) = root (156 divided by 3.14) will be approximately 7.05 cm
Therefore, the diameter of the supply pipe:
The diameter will be approximately 14 cm = 140 millimeters.
If only the supply channel is introduced in the basement, and the hole will play the role of the exhaust, in this case it is allowed to slightly increase the profile of the inlet channel by defining a pipe with a diameter of 150 millimeters.
To ensure air exchange, it is customary to install a pipe with a diameter on the exhaust duct, we expect 10% more than at the inlet.
Dw = Dn add 15% = 140 add 21 and approximately it will be 160 millimeters.
Ventilation installation
Having made the necessary calculations, taking into account all the above-described nuances, it is allowed to proceed to the installation of ventilation.
The approximate location of the supply and exhaust pipes.
The supply pipe is permanently located below.
- In another corner of the cellar, a passage is made in the ceiling or wall, and a supply pipe is introduced and fixed into it, which is lowered to the floor. It must be placed at least 200 millimeters from the floor and no more than 500 millimeters;
- On the street, the supply pipe does not need to be placed high. If it comes out through the ceiling, raise it sufficiently by 200–250 millimeters. It must be taken into account that the pressure difference at the inlet and outlet is much more powerful and has sufficient pressure, and therefore the flow of atmosphere into the cellar;
- If the supply pipe is introduced through a wall, then a fan guard or a plastic reflector is put on it.
Possible location of the supply pipe.
- It is dark inside - there are no windows, the light comes from a light bulb and only when you need to take something.
- Low temperature is required for long-term storage of things and food, otherwise "love is gone, tomatoes wilted." Literally.
- Constant air circulation, inflow of fresh air and removal of stagnant air.
- Humidity is about 90% - not a lot and not a little. Enough to maintain freshness without rotting or drying out.
If the building does not meet the listed requirements, you should think about the need for high-quality ventilation. To create such an air cycle, 2 types of ventilation are used - passive and mechanical.
For small spaces
When laying the foundation in the basement part, air vents are left above the cellar. They are covered with iron bars so that pets, pests and debris (leaves, branches, waste paper) will not get inside. With the onset of frost, a dense fabric is placed on top of the grate for insulation and pressed down with an iron sheet. With the right design, the cellar will maintain the temperature that is permissible for storing food even in winter. 
This is the simplest way of arranging, but it does not provide sufficient ventilation, and precipitation (snow, rain) in any case will fall into the vents and accumulate.
If it is not possible to make two separate vents, you can halve one. The first part with a wind catcher directs fresh air into the room, the second is slightly covered from parallel blowing and will serve as an exhaust hood.
Passive (natural) ventilation
Large cellars will no longer be able to properly ventilate with niches alone - air circulation is necessary here. But you can make ventilation in the cellar with your own hands quite quickly and without high costs, and a full-fledged blowing system will allow you to store any things in the future without the danger of damage.
A significant disadvantage of natural ventilation is its dependence on weather conditions. In the complete absence of wind, the air flow is extremely weak, therefore it can be considered an intermediate solution and a "frame" for a mechanical one.
First you need to decide on the diameter of the pipes, calculate the volume of the chamber and the required amount of air for normal circulation, after which a ventilation scheme for the cellar is drawn up. The formula is quite simple: 1 cm of pipe diameter is 13 sq. Cm. section. For 1 square meter of cellar, you need 26 square cm of section. That is, with a cellar of 10 sq.m. diameter is calculated as follows: 10 square meters (area) * 26 (required section per meter): 13 (section per 1 cm of diameter). 
Simply put, the area is multiplied by 2 - the diameter of the pipe is obtained. If the duct is rectangular, we take the calculation of 1 sq.m. room area = 26 sq. duct area (in this case, an area of 230 sq. cm = 10x23 cm duct). The ventilation of the cellar in the garage is done according to the same principle, but taking into account the design features - it cannot always be brought out directly.
Since the garage is used mainly for storing products that are more resistant to temperature and moisture, there is less dependence on ventilation, but the car still needs air circulation to prevent the accumulation of condensation.
After that, the required length is measured, and you can start installation work.
Installation of exhaust and supply
The air duct through the ceiling in the corner of the cellar is brought out to the roof, always above the level of the building, otherwise the draft will be unstable and depend on the direction of the wind. A flap for adjustment is attached below, and a mesh (from birds and debris) and a "fungus" from rain are placed on top. You cannot put it back to back, otherwise the air will not flow freely, but too high a "mushroom" is useless by default, since rain and snow rarely fall vertically, and the wind will blow them into the pipe. If there is already an overlap above the cellar (concrete wall, slabs, bricks), instead of one large passage, you can make several smaller ones, but equal in total area / diameter. Correct ventilation of the cellar in winter will keep the food from icing up and allow the pipes to “split”.
The inflow is located diametrically to the hood - in the opposite corner at a distance of at least 0.5 m from the floor. The size of the supply channel can be made slightly larger than the hood for reliability and better air supply. Similar to the hood, it is displayed on the roof and is also equipped with a mesh and rain protection. It is important that the supply pipe is at least 0.5 m lower than the exhaust, otherwise the system will close and air will not flow due to the same pressure in both channels. 
After installation, you need to check the traction.
No sensors - just bring a burning lighter to the exhaust port for 5-10 seconds. If the flame burns evenly and is "drawn" into the channel, everything is in order. If it goes out, it means that the air does not enter or is not removed. In this case, the flame is brought to each channel in turn for testing. Near the inflow, it should tremble from the flow of the wind, if it burns perfectly evenly - the pipe is either clogged or incorrectly installed. Change the height, increase the diameter - this should solve the problem.
Forced (mechanical) ventilation
Unlike passive, mechanical basement ventilation in a private house does not depend on the weather, wind strength / direction and other details. Moreover, the already existing passive ventilation will serve as the basis for creating forced circulation. Actually, the basic design principles do not differ - both pipes are located diametrically, both are brought up, both are protected from debris and precipitation. Forced ventilation is equipped in two ways.
- With fans
An electric fan is mounted on the hood, which blows air out of the room. As a result, a small vacuum is formed inside, which itself will draw in the outside air. An alternative is an intake fan for better air injection, but the load on it will be slightly increased if the exhaust is not wide enough. Ideally, you should put variable speed fans on both channels and set them to the same speed. 
Since the humidity in the basements is higher than under normal conditions, it is better to use low voltage fans and additionally insulate the wires and contacts and consult with professionals in advance on how to make ventilation in the basement with your own hands.
- Non-mechanical
An alternative is deflectors. They are placed on the hood instead of the hood and thin out the air in the pipe, creating increased draft. Another option is turbines. The force of the wind rotates the shaft, it transfers the force to the fan, which improves the outflow of air. Both options do not require electricity, but when installing them, you need to regulate the traction. 
There is only one disadvantage of deflectors and turbines - they are also dependent on the wind and in its absence will not bring much benefit. it is better to strengthen the hood with a fan in such cases.
Do-it-yourself video of the cellar ventilation will help to understand all the details better - visual perception is much more effective than any text.
The presence of a cellar in the house allows you to store vegetables and preserves for a long time. The most important condition for this room is to maintain optimal temperature and humidity conditions. After all, moisture can have a detrimental effect not only on food, but also on other things stored in the cellar.
To avoid negative consequences, important attention is paid not only to waterproofing and insulation of the foundation, but also to the correct organization of ventilation.
Effective use of the premises is possible only when maintaining comfortable conditions for keeping the fruits. To ensure their long-term storage, it is necessary to create a microclimate in which it would be possible to regulate the level of air humidity ().
A poorly ventilated room is filled with moisture, which later settles in the form of condensation on the walls and fruit boxes. All this becomes the cause of rotting vegetables and the appearance of a characteristic odor.
It is important to know how to properly ventilate the cellar, since the draft also has a detrimental effect on the fruits, drying them out.
The main factors for the stable operation of the system
The principles of the system are:
- air movement due to heating of the ventilation duct;
- the effect of the wind blowing air masses from the pipes.
That is, to ensure high-quality circulation work when installing the main elements with your own hands, you need to create traction. The deflectors used in this case become less effective in calm weather. However, the efficiency of ventilation is not lost, as the main role is assigned to thermal induction.
Despite the presence of many advantages, such a system still has some disadvantages associated with the effect of temperature. So during the heat, due to the lack of wind, the ventilation of the cellar at home may deteriorate. In winter, frost can form on the pipes, therefore it is recommended to additionally insulate them.
Arrangement of natural ventilation
This system is ideal for small spaces. Its installation does not require special efforts and significant financial costs. Among its advantages, there are also such indicators as: reliability, low price, durability, the ability to combine with artificial air circulation using an air conditioner or fan, as well as maintaining efficiency in the absence of electricity.
Natural air circulation installation technology
The installation process is not time consuming. Everyone can do all the work with their own hands without the help of specialists.
Let's figure out how to make the ventilation of the cellar. For these works, we need pipes made of plastic or metal, as well as deflectors and clamps, through which the pipes will be fastened.
The diameter of the ventilation ducts used affects the volume of passing air, and the speed of its movement depends on their height. Since air circulation depends on weather conditions, it is difficult to determine the exact parameters of the pipes.
For a cellar with an area of 40 square meters, pipes with diameters of 120 mm will be required. However, to increase the speed of air flows, it is recommended to take pipes of a larger diameter.
The following instructions describe how to install the system.
- In the case of arranging ventilation at the stages of building a house, difficulties should not arise. It will only be necessary to organize holes in the structure of the house of a diameter suitable for pipes.
- After that, pipes are installed in these openings and fixed with polyurethane foam or cement composition.
- The exhaust ventilation duct should be located under the ceiling, as shown in the photo. The pipe itself rises above the roof, at a distance of half a meter from the top of the roof. The supply channel is completely inside the room so that there is 500 mm between the outlet and the floor, and the inlet is half a meter above the ground.
- Since condensation tends to form in the supply pipe, its end is equipped with a special moisture collector equipped with a tap for draining water.
Advice! If the decision on the organization of ventilation was made after the completion of construction, it will be necessary to pierce the channels for the installation of pipes. For this, a foundation is dug out, in which holes are then made for installing pipes. In this case, the exhaust ventilation duct is attached to the wall with clamps, and a deflector is placed on top of it, preventing the penetration of precipitation.
Arrangement of forced ventilation
To enhance air exchange and as close as possible to the microclimate to natural conditions, they resort to the use of artificial circulation. The principle of operation of this option is based on the induction of air to move through the action of special devices ().
Installation of a forced system
The result of this scheme depends on the type of fan used.
Forced air circulation is carried out in the following ways.
- Automatic is characterized by autonomy... The system is monitored by installed sensors, therefore, if necessary, it can be turned off or on itself.
- Mechanical ventilation involves human intervention to turn on and regulate the fans. Also, in this case, it will be necessary to regulate air flows using valves, which is especially important in the cold season. Strong cravings can cause the fruit to freeze.
Homemade forced ventilation of the cellar provides for the same arrangement of pipes as in the first version. A fan is installed in the exhaust pipe, by means of which it will set the air in motion. The outward flow of air creates a vortex that brings in fresh air from the outside.
The cellar must have racks and shelves for storing food, preparations, fresh vegetables and fruits, and equipped with a ventilation system. A uniform indoor temperature regime will ensure the safety of products until the next harvest. Proper ventilation of the cellar allows you to maintain an optimal mode for storing vegetables in it.
This will relieve him of the dampness of the room and high humidity,. Using the basic rules for the design of ventilation systems, it will be possible to dry without the help of specialists.
There are several options for how to properly ventilate the cellar: you can use ready-made air conditioning devices and just install them, or you can make an air duct with your own hands.
The second option is suitable for the domestic use of the cellar, the first for the arrangement of large industrial storage facilities.
Before you make ventilation in the cellar, you should choose the most suitable version of the system. They are natural and compulsory.
ventilation - scheme 1
The main differences between the systems:
- the forced method provides for the installation of a mechanism - a stationary fan. Such a simple, at first glance, method is suitable for large volumes. The fan for the cellar is placed on the exhaust air duct;
- for natural ventilation, a fan is also used, but not stationary, but temporarily - the device is installed for several days to quickly dry the storage.
Features of the arrangement of ventilation:
- the supply pipe is laid through part of the foundation;
- the supply pipe must be flat;
- part of the chimney must be insulated to prevent condensation.
When choosing a specific type of ventilation system, the frequency of use and the mode of maintaining temperature should be taken into account.
Important! For effective ventilation of any other room, air ducts must have a high flow capacity. To avoid a shortage of air mass, it is very important to choose the right pipe diameter for the cellar ventilation device.
Natural air exchange system
Ventilation of an underground room with two pipes for supply and exhaust purposes is the simplest and most effective way to make a natural air exchange system.
Suitable material for duct equipment is asbestos or PVC pipes. For pipes made of galvanized steel, the correct diameter works correctly - for 1 m2, 25 cm2 is required, calculated from the total size.
Opposite corners are usually used for pipe placement. This reduces the likelihood of stagnant humid air forming.
Exhaust system structure
Exhaust pipe - used to purify air masses inside the room. Suitable place for installation - in one of the corners of the cellar. It is important to consider that the lower part of the duct should be installed at the very top of the room. In the room, the ventilation duct must be vertical. In places of withdrawal, there should be a protrusion above the ridge part by about 50 cm or more.
To reduce the condensate masses that will form inside the pipe, it is required to insulate the duct. The insulation procedure does not take much time and does not require special skills. For work, you will need one pipe of a slightly larger diameter and mineral wool or other insulation. One pipe is placed inside the second, and the hollow space is filled with insulation.
Installation methods:
- A simple scheme for ventilation of the cellar - through the through method: the pipe passes through the floor, rises along the corner of the wall and is removed through the ceiling and roof;
- More difficult - through the wall, when the lower part of the chimney is horizontal and rises up already at the surface. This scheme is also suitable for.
The inlet pipe provides the cellar with fresh air. Typically, the pipe is installed in the corner opposite the exhaust type air duct. The height of the open end of the pipe from the floor level is 40-50 cm. Further, it passes through the sections of overlap and also rises 25-30 centimeters from the floor.
ventilation in the cellar scheme 3
The supply air duct should be installed in such a way that its lower cut does not reach the floor level by about 45-50 cm. Approximately the same distance should be between the upper cut and the ground level.
It is important to take into account that the upper cut must be covered with a protective grill. This will help protect food supplies from rodents, mice, rats, and other intruders. Metal mesh can be used.
Air moves through the ventilation ducts due to the difference in the specific gravity of warm and cold air masses.
If the temperature difference is too dramatic, drafts will form inside the room.
In another case, on the contrary, the air will stagnate. To regulate the movement of air masses, gate valves are used. They are installed on both pipes - both exhaust and supply.
Benefits of natural ventilation:
- low cost - do-it-yourself ventilation of the cellar does not require significant financial costs;
- energy saving;
- the possibility of self-assembly;
- there is no need for constant monitoring, usually only required in winter with a sharp cold snap;
- compatibility with other ventilation systems, or air conditioning systems that can be installed in the house, if necessary, you can additionally install forced ventilation for the cellar.
At the end of the installation, it is very important to check the functionality of the system. To check that the ventilation system is working properly, a simple piece of paper should be applied to the ventilation opening.
It is very simple to check: if the leaf vibrates under the air currents, then the ventilation in the cellar is installed correctly with your own hands. In the same way, the operability of the duct system in a cellar with one pipe is checked.
Forced air exchange system
Forced ventilation implies the device of a stationary, constant fan - the optimal solution for arranging a large cellar. It can also be used for natural ventilation of the cellar, but not permanently, but temporarily. The fan is installed on the chimney.
The ventilation of the cellar located in a residential building has some peculiarities - the air duct for the inflow of air masses is laid only through the above-ground part of the foundation. If there is already a basement, then the supply air duct also passes through it. The pipe must be flat, with a minimum of bends and corners. You should also pay attention to the length, it should not be very long. The outer section of the exhaust system must be insulated.
Exhaust ventilation of the cellar is usually located inside the load-bearing wall of a summer cottage or house. If the ventilation of the cellar under the house is installed after construction, then special recesses are made in the wall or a passage along the wall.
If the cellar is small, then the temperature and humidity conditions can provide ventilation even with one supply and exhaust pipe. Forced ventilation of the cellar in winter, when negative temperatures are established, can be turned off, since there is no urgent need for additional ventilation of the room.
Ventilation system diagram
If the cellar is already closed, holes are punched in the walls in opposite corners for the installation of air ducts with a step of 26 cm2 per 1 m2 of area.
The exhaust duct is lowered inward through the hole so that the lower end is under the ceiling itself, the distance of the indent is no more than 10-15 cm. The upper part of the hood is taken out into the air through an opening through the roof to a height of 15-25 cm.
The supply air duct is routed into another opening. There should be a distance of at least 20-25 cm from the floor. All cracks are carefully sealed with cement mortar.
The calculation of the ventilation of the cellar is done as follows: the amount of air that has passed in 1 hour, the volume of the room must be multiplied by the recommended frequency of air exchange.
Formula for calculating duct area: F = air flow: (air velocity x 3600)
Cellar ventilation in a private house or in the country performs 2 important functions at once:
- provides suitable conditions for storing food for a long time;
- helps to maintain a comfortable temperature in the house above the cellar.
Incorrect ventilation of the cellar in the house negatively affects comfort and coziness. In this case, dampness and musty, the air easily penetrates into the living quarters. Sanitary standards are violated, which leads to the risk of developing various diseases among the inhabitants of the premises.
Important! Remember that even a tightly closed lid, door or cellar flap will not replace the ventilation system that no living space can do without.
Preparing the cellar for storing food
In the warm season, as well as in those periods when the laying of food for storage is being prepared, you should open everything, doors, windows, do not forget about the dampers on the pipes. This is done to further dry the cellar and establish the same temperature inside.
If the room is heavily saturated with moisture, in order to quickly dry the air, all wood is removed from it, which are separately dried under the sun. If necessary, the cellar can be ventilated with fans for 3-5 days before preparing food.
Simple tip: moisture is removed by placing a bucket of quicklime in the cellar. A popular way to improve draft is with the help of a candle; it should be placed in front of the chimney.
The use of electric heaters is also an effective way. Fans that are installed in the middle of the cellar are also suitable. After fan drying is finished, the walls and ceiling will need to be applied in layers. This should result in a waterproof surface.
In cases where the hood works normally, the ventilation scheme in the cellar provides for the usual ventilation not only inside the cellar, but also the entire living space as a whole.