The construction of a bath on your own site can be made from different materials and using various technologies, however, a sewerage device in a bath is necessary for any method of construction. Understanding how to make a sewer in a bath with your own hands will greatly contribute to both financial savings and its comfortable further use.
Existing options for the construction of sewerage in the bath
Designing a water drain in a bath Proper technical construction and drainage, performed in compliance with the basic rules, will ensure long-term use of the bath without the need for frequent maintenance of internal communication systems.
Starting on your own site, and considering suitable projects, you must immediately work out how to properly make a sewer in a bath. This is primarily due to the fact that the laying of the wastewater disposal system, with any method of its organization, is carried out at the stage. 
Sewerage in the bath can be organized in two ways:
- Pressure type with the installation of pumping equipment for special purposes, providing the selection of sewage. This method is good to use when arranging bath rooms below the soil level, for example, in the basement.
- Non-pressure flow, in which wastewater is discharged due to the slope of the laid pipelines and is the most generally applicable.
Scheme of the design of a free-flow drain in the bath When designing a bath sewer communication, it is necessary to take into account the arrangement of the following components:
- or a place of accumulation and processing of wastewater;
- pipeline both external and internal;
- drain devices in the washing rooms (ladders, gutters);
- odor removal system (ventilation outlet, siphons).
Criteria for choosing a sewer system
When designing a sewer system in a bath, it is necessary to take into account several main points on which the choice of its most optimal device depends.
Bath outlet options 
Construction of a sewage storage tank
The collection and processing of wastewater is one of the main activities of the entire range of works on the construction of a bath sewer in the absence of nearby centralized sewer systems. In this case, it is necessary to equip a container in which effluents will be collected on their own. This can be done in several ways, depending on the technical features of the construction and the availability of financial opportunities.
The process of installing a septic tank for a bath Schematic diagrams of the device of wells can be the following:
Depending on the choice of the concept, it is necessary to select the material for manufacturing. The following options are possible:
- plastic containers, for example, eurocubes or other containers of the appropriate volume and composition;
- prefabricated concrete rings;
- pouring a concrete box directly on the ground;
- , laid in a checkerboard pattern with drainage gaps.
An example of finishing a drainage well with brick 
After the material and the scheme of the device are selected, it is necessary to choose the optimal place for construction and ensure the correct preparation of the pit for deepening or the device of the tank.
Design and design of a drainage well 
In this case, the following rules must be observed.
After earthworks have been completed to prepare the pit, its bottom and edges must be smeared with a clay composition to avoid shedding of the edges, and the sand cushion and drainage layer should be backfilled if necessary.
Drawing and names of the elements of the drainage well 
In this case, it is necessary to take into account:
When arranging drainage tanks, it is also necessary to provide for the presence, which will contribute to the efficient processing of waste and exclude an unpleasant odor.
Features of laying sewer pipes
The most relevant material for organizing wastewater disposal today is plastic pipes, which, due to their properties, have replaced pipes made of cast iron, metal and asbestos concrete. They have a long service life, wear-resistant, easy to work with during installation, and also have a low cost.
To connect pipes, appropriate docking modules or fittings are provided, which have a variety of configurations to perform complex joints and piping.
An example of laying sewer pipes in a bath 
Laying of external sewage pipes is carried out in prepared trenches, prepared taking into account the following features:
An example of a manhole device 
Docking of the pipeline to the sewer well is carried out by tie-in methods with sealing of the joint.
The pipeline is connected to the bath itself through by installing the pipe in the technological holes and sealing the connection point with cement mortar. The video shows the process of laying sewer pipes.
Arrangement of internal sewer outlets
The laying of pipes for equipping the sewerage of internal premises depends on the planned method of arranging the floor, the functional purpose of the premises and the number of drain points.
In small baths, water is supposed to be drained directly from the washing room.. Other options involve drainage from several points, including a toilet and additional water supply points, for example, a shower, a washbasin.
An example of a sewer outlet in a bath 
All this must be taken into account when planning a bath, to ensure the necessary technological conclusions.
The material for covering the floor is also of no small importance for how the drain in the bath will be organized.
Examples of design and installation of ladders in the bath 
Work on laying internal pipelines is carried out in the following sequence.
After completing all the steps for laying out the pipes, they are poured with concrete mortar, taking into account the following points:
- the height of concrete above the pipes must be at least 10 cm;
- it is necessary to ensure the slope of the concrete base in accordance with the planned type of floor covering.
The final stage of the sewage device inside the bath is laying the floor covering.
The process of laying the floor in the bath 
Long gone are the days when the inhabitants of cities and towns were satisfied with the only achievement of progress - electricity. Today's residents of country estates strive to have heating, plumbing, sewerage, forced ventilation, etc. All these engineering communications are available, but their installation should begin already at the design stage of the building.
In the project for the construction of the foundation, the points of passage of water pipes from the central network or a house well and a sewer pipe to the location of the septic tank are taken into account. In the foundation under construction, channels are made for all these communications, so that later, at the time of installation, do not punch holes in the foundation for them.
In the process of building walls and installing partitions, holes, channels should be laid, and other necessary work should be done for future in-house pipelines and communications. Such foresight will eliminate the need for any restructuring, violation of the integrity of structures, waste of extra money and effort.
In houses, communications are laid secretly under decorative trim or openly, after all finishing work, and each of these technologies has its own advantages and disadvantages. Hidden communications do not spoil the interior, but restrict access to them during repair work, and open communications are convenient for maintenance and repair, but do not decorate the interior. Engineers and craftsmen of our StroyProjectBani company are well aware of the specifics of laying and connecting communications in buildings of any purpose and perform work with high quality.
Installation of house electrical networks
Internal installation of electrical networks is carried out according to the schemes in strict accordance with the norms of the PUE. Switchboards and meters are installed as close as possible to the entry point of the power cable, and all electrical wiring starts from the circuit breakers and protective devices assembled in the switchboard.
Hidden wiring is laid in the sleeves behind the decorative trim, with wires leading to switches, sockets and lamps, and is separated from junction boxes, to which free access is provided.
The safest electrical wiring is laid outside, along the surface of walls and ceilings. For aesthetics, the wire is retracted into the cable channels, which are available in a wide variety of shades and textures, to match the decorative finishing materials.
For the power supply of the bathhouses, the wiring is laid in metal hoses, bred in sealed junction boxes, switches and lamps closed to moisture penetration are used, it is especially important to approach the selection of electrical equipment in the steam room, washing room and shower room.
When installing electrical wiring and electrical equipment, it is necessary to fulfill all the requirements of the PUE, be sure to arrange grounding and remember that electricity is not only a blessing, but also a source of increased fire hazard and electric shock.
Water supply of wooden houses and baths
When thinking about conducting a water supply system, already at the stage of building a house, it is necessary to develop a scheme of water consumption points and supplying water pipes to them. According to the finished scheme, holes are left in the walls for passing pipes, and the laying can only begin with complete shrinkage of the walls or log house.
In the case of connection to a centralized water supply system, the pipe is laid below the freezing point and is led into the basement of the house or the space under the floor, and from there it is bred to the points of water consumption.
From the well or well, the pipe is also laid 20-30 cm below the freezing point and is brought into the room where pumping equipment and water filtration equipment are installed, after which the water supply is distributed around the house. If the well is equipped with a caisson, pumping equipment and filters are installed in it, and a supply pipe is brought into the house.
Sewerage in wooden houses and baths
The technology for installing sewers in wooden houses and baths is no different from similar work in other buildings. During the construction of the foundation, it is necessary to provide a hole for removing the sewer pipe from the underground space. To the connection points, sewer and drain pipes are brought under the floor with access to plumbing through the floor.
In baths, sewer pipes are laid to water drain points and plumbing fixtures before wooden floors are installed or the base is concreted for tiles.
From the plumbing fixtures on the second floor, sewerage and drain pipes are laid into the basement through the ceiling, and then along the walls of the first floor, before they are finished, so that in the process of wall cladding, the pipes can be hidden behind decorative boxes.
All pipes in the basement or under the floor are connected with special fittings to a common pipe, which is led through the foundation of a house or bath at a depth below the freezing point, with a slight forward slope and laid to a septic tank installed in the ground.
Heating in wooden houses and baths
Heating of a country, separately built house is almost always carried out from a boiler installed in a special room. The boiler in wooden buildings poses a high fire hazard, so it must be installed in compliance with all fire regulations:
1. The boiler is installed on a concrete foundation, at a distance of one meter from the walls, the walls are covered with asbestos sheets or other non-combustible materials.
2. Exhaust and supply ventilation must be arranged in the boiler room.
3. To remove smoke, double-circuit pipes are installed - a sandwich with a layer of non-combustible basalt wool inside.
4. When passing through ceilings and walls, pipes are separated from combustible materials by special protective fittings.
Pipes, radiators and water heated floors are mounted strictly according to the schemes and are bred from the collector, which evenly distributes heat to all heating points.
Ventilation in wooden houses and baths
Unlike brick and concrete buildings, the walls of wooden houses "breathe" creating their own special microclimate. Installation of forced ventilation is definitely needed in the boiler room, in the kitchen, in bathrooms and bathrooms, and in the bathhouse, hoods are placed in the steam room and washing room. For other rooms, simple ventilation is sufficient. Good ventilation helps to remove unpleasant odors and smoke, freshen the air, reduce indoor humidity, which improves the quality of life and leads to the preservation of wooden structures.
Today, other communication engineering systems are coming to country houses, the issue of installation of which can be resolved with the specialists of StroyProjectBani.
Anyone who has ever equipped a bath in his house knows that its system requires good sewage. And for those who first encountered the construction of a bath, you need to know how to properly install and equip the sewer for a bath so that it functions without failures.
To do this, it is very important to know how to properly drain the drain, what should be the soil on the site so that it absorbs water well, in what cases it is possible to install an additional bathroom for the bath, where the drainage pit should be located, how many people the bath can serve in one sitting, and others moments.
When building a bathhouse and arranging its sewerage, it is necessary to know certain stages of work, as well as some rules and features of such construction.
For arranging the supply of water or water supply, which is one network with sewage in communications, it is most convenient to use SNiP 2.04.01-85 “Internal water supply and sewerage of buildings”.
With the guidance of such building codes and rules, it will not be difficult to carry out installation and sewerage installation in the bath.
In order to choose what type of sewer for a bath to build, it is necessary to take into account some of the nuances that will allow you to equip the sewer in the best possible way:
- the type of soil composition where the construction of the bath is supposed;
- what is the depth of soil freezing in the area where the bath will be located;
- what should be the parameters and frequency of use of the bath;
- whether there is a sewer line of a city or autonomous sewer on the site;
- how likely are the possibilities of connecting the bath sewer to the city sewer networks;
- what should be the design of the construction of the bath.
According to the composition of the soil, it must be remembered that well-absorbing soil compositions are most desirable for arranging a sewer for a bath.
These compositions can be loose soils:
- sandy;
- crushed stone;
- silty or sands of different sizes with soil;
- coarse gravel, boulder or pebble.
If in the area where it is supposed to build a bath, there are just such soils, then in order to equip a bath in such a territory, it is necessary to build a drainage well, which will perfectly cope with coming from the bath and, at the same time, it will be wonderfully absorbed into the soil.
Important! However, if the soils in the area for building a bath have clay formation compositions, then the drainage well is not suitable.
In the case of poorly absorbed soils such as clay, sandy loam and loam, it is necessary to make a pit under the sewer for the bath, where the used water will drain.
Indicators of the average depth of soil freezing for central Russia are presented in the classic table, which is successfully used by most designers, engineers and construction companies:
Photo: indicators of the average depth of soil freezing for central Russia
All design schemes for the design of sewerage for a bath should always be drawn up and calculated based on the depth of soil freezing in a particular area where it is planned to use the site for building a bath.
Important! This must be done in order to avoid damage to the system due to freezing of drain pipes, sedimentation tanks or sewerage drainage for the bath.
Many experts prefer to use a map instead of a table, which also indicates the depth (mm) of soil freezing in a particular territory of Russia.
If it is planned to equip a large bathhouse, where a large number of people should be served at once, then it is necessary to provide it with such a sewage system that could normally tolerate large-volume salvo discharges.
Drainage wells, pits or septic tanks must be of an impressive size, capable of providing high performance in the treatment of wastewater or their effective settling and removal from the site. Therefore, it is also necessary to carefully calculate everything here.
When building a small and medium bath, you should also not ignore such calculations:
- how many people is the bath for?
- what expected volumes of wastewater will flow from the bath to the sewer;
- what size should the whole building be;
- What size should the drainage well or septic tank be?
In addition, a very important point when planning the construction of a bath with an individual sewer will be taking into account the type of the bath sewer system itself:
- non-pressure;
- pressure;
- part of the central city sewerage system.
A non-pressure, or gravity-flow, sewer system for a bath is a piping system through which the water used in the bath flows by gravity into containers, septic tanks, tanks, or where the water settles or undergoes biological treatment, and then, also by gravity, the purified flows into the ground or reservoirs.
It makes sense to equip this type of sewerage when the terrain and the area of \u200b\u200bthe site allow for natural slopes when laying pipes (0.20 mm per 1 running meter of the pipeline towards the sewer receiving tank), and also, groundwater lies below the level of any drainage sewer device.
Such a plan for the installation of sewerage is always economical and practical because during its arrangement the least amount of money is spent on the purchase of sewer systems, septic tanks or drainage wells, and the minimum use of labor is also noticed.
Photo: pressure sewer system for a bath The pressure sewer system for a bath is already different in that it is not as non-volatile as a non-pressure one.
After all, if in the first case water enters the sewer system by gravity, then when installing a pressure sewer, it is imperative to install sewer pumping units.
The pumps with which the pressurized sewage system in the bath is equipped must pump out sewage and supply it not only to the pipeline, but also to a pit or septic tank, where the effluents will be processed, cleaned and forced (again, with the help of a pump) the release of treated effluents into soil or storage tanks.
Important! It is advisable to arrange such systems in cases where the groundwater level is high enough, the area of \u200b\u200bthe personal plot is too small, or the bathhouse is located in the basement of a private residential building.
Such sewer systems are least of all clogged from skeins of hair, accidental ingress of soap into the pipeline, because under the pressure that the pump creates, these inclusions, together with wastewater, are very quickly fed into a septic tank, a sewer cleaning tank or a storage well.
Photo: sewer cleaning tank or storage well Bath sewer, which can be connected to the central city sewer system, is the most profitable option for bath owners.
After all, you won’t have to deal with wastewater treatment on your own, because all of them will fall into the central sewerage mains, therefore collectors, and then, from there to city treatment facilities.
The only difficulty that may arise here is the installation and insertion of sewer pipes going from the bath to the central system.
Difficulties may also arise in the preparation of documents for coordinating the work on tie-in and connection with state institutions responsible for city sewer networks.
Other equally important points in the organization and arrangement of sewerage for a bath can be its construction design and the presence of an additional bathroom.
By and large, the classic versions of the bath device in their design have the following rooms:
- a bathroom is a mandatory room;
- shower room - installed in order to be able to wash;
- dressing room - either benches and a table for snacks, or a font with cold water are equipped in it;
- steam room - directly the room where they are steamed.
Photo: steam room All these rooms must be equipped with a drain because they discharge wastewater to the sewer to some extent.
The presence of additional rooms, where it is also supposed to drain the used water, should also be taken into account. What is it for?
Suppose you have equipped a toilet in the bathhouse, then according to the rules of the SES, you are required to use a septic tank with activated sludge as part of your sewage system, which processes wastewater and disinfects it.
And if your bath is equipped with a bathroom only from a washbasin, but without a toilet, then there is no such need to install a septic tank with activated sludge.
After all, only soapy water will flow out of such a bath, then it is enough to build a sewer with a drainage well or pit.
Scheme
Before you understand what the sewerage scheme in the bath should be, you need to decide on the type of sewer system both indoors and outdoors.
If the soil in your area allows you to install a drainage well, then the layout of such a sewerage system will differ significantly from the external sewerage scheme for rocky, clay or loamy soils.
Photo: sewerage scheme in the bath This scheme is the simplest drainage sewer system in the bath, moreover, it is also gravity-flowing, that is, non-pressure. The necessary slopes are very clearly visible here.
Which should be done when laying the pipeline, the presence of a ventilation duct and an exit to the outside, the required depth for a particular section of the pipeline with a drop, and, finally.
A drainage well with a gravel bed bottom, which is a natural filter for sewage.
In the case of rocky, clay or loamy soils, the absorbency of which is very low, a special pit is arranged in the sewer system for the bath.
This pit is a storage tank made of any waterproof material, from which a drainage pipe extends, diverting runoff away from the site.
Effluent can be discharged to fields, ravines, reservoirs or rivers. Drains such as bathhouses are not considered too dirty, of course, provided that there is no toilet in the bathhouses.
During the arrangement of the pit, it is very important to properly arrange a water seal, which will have to limit the ingress of unpleasant odors into the bath.
Also, for the installation of such a sewer system, it will be most effective to use plastic pipes made of durable polymer material, such as, for example, polypropylene or low-pressure polyethylene.
Important! Sewer pipes for external sewerage are always used with a diameter of 100 mm. The pit is made right under the floor of the bath, and therefore, first you need to make it right away, and then lay the boards with gaps on the wooden logs. The logs are laid on the bricks.
A hole is dug in the center of the bath with gentle slopes leading to it. The entire surface is waterproofed with a concrete screed. A drainage pipe should extend from the pit, which will lead drains far beyond the site.
The plate, which is arranged above the pipe, will form a kind of water seal, so that unpleasant odors will not penetrate into the bathhouse.
Photo: a kind of water lock The drain pipe of the pit should be arranged at a height of 10-12 cm from the bottom of the pit. And between the plate and the surface of the pipe there should be a gap of about 5 or 6 cm. The pit can be waterproofed not necessarily with concrete, but also with plastic containers.
DIY device
What you should not rush into when building a sewer for a bath with your own hands is with the construction of the room itself. This is especially true for genders. Sewerage for a bath has its own specifics, and therefore there is no need to rush to lay the floors for its premises.
Almost any scheme of internal sewerage in baths shows that communications and devices are located under the floor, and it doesn’t even matter what type of floor is planned to be laid: with or without gaps between wooden boards.
Moreover, it is very important to think over also the ventilation system, which could cover all the bath rooms in its service. If this is not done, then it will be very uncomfortable to use such a device as a bath.
Internal sewerage
If you decide to make a sewer for a bath according to the old Russian custom, then you will need to dig a hole in the center of the room, which will combine a washing and steam room with partitions that separate one room from another.
If you make the washing room and the steam room separate rooms, then you will need to make pits for each of these rooms.
In this case, two drain pipes will come out of the bath, or two connected into one large pipe, which will already be directly laid underground from the outside.
In the same way, you can equip the sewer for rooms where there is a pool, toilet or washbasin.
According to the old custom, they make a sewer for a bath without a pipeline. That pit, which is made in the center of the room, is called a pit.
Such a pit can still be made near the bath, and drain pipes coming from the bath rooms are connected to it. If the pit is under the floor of the bath, then the floors are made leaky, with gaps between the boards.
Through these cracks in the floor, water flows into the pit, and from it through the drain pipe, it is discharged outside the site.
These designs are very convenient in that they do not require special maintenance or care. Here the most important thing is to properly make the pit itself and the drainage system.
Important! If it is necessary to make the floors solid without gaps, then the pit is made without a concrete screed on floors with slopes. It is enough to make a sealed pit, to which it is connected, there will be a truncated piece of the drain pipe.
It looks like this: The floors are laid at an angle to the center of the room, where there is a hole. Water flows into this hole and enters a special chute, which leads water into a pit, and from there through a drain pipe outside the bath.
Even a flat solid floor, which is without a slope, can be equipped with such gutters. But then it will be necessary to leave gaps around the perimeter of the room, between the wall and the floor.
These gaps are equipped with gutters, such as a truncated plastic sewer pipe, which is located under the floor and fits snugly into the foundation.
The gutters are installed under a slope towards the pit, where the drain pipe is also arranged. Through these gutters, water flows into the pit, and from there it is discharged outside the bath.
Photo: through these gutters, water flows into the pit If you are satisfied with the option of a floor with slots, then you dig a hole that will be under the floor of the bath, then make a cement or concrete screed.
Moreover, the screed must be done not only in one hole, but also in the entire space under the floor. This surface under the floor should be concreted with a slope from all sides towards the pit.
There are no more gutters here, and therefore the corners between the wall and the future floor can be reliably sealed with some kind of rolled waterproof material, such as roofing material, and from the side of the surface that will be under the floor of the bath, it can be safely filled with a concrete screed.
Important! Do not forget to also fit a drain pipe, which is best placed at a height from the bottom of the pit, somewhere from 10 to 12 cm.
Above the pipe, attach a special plate to the fixing fittings (anchors, studs, nails) that will block unpleasant odors, so you will avoid the penetration of unpleasant odors of standing water into the room.
Photo: a plate that will block unpleasant odors There is another convenient option for installing sewerage in a bathhouse, this is a tie-in to the pipeline of the central city sewerage system, which is available in the house.
Here you will need as much effort as they were required to equip the sewerage system when building a private house.
Namely: the necessary plastic pipes, sealant, welding machine, if you will weld the pipeline, or couplings, flanges, fittings and other connecting elements for pipes.
In this case, you are in all the rooms of the bath, where there is a discharge of used water through any plumbing or facilities such as a pool, etc., you lay pipes under the floor, to which you attach either plumbing, or a pool drain, or a gutter from the floor in a steam room or washing room.
Important! All these pipes do not need to be led to a septic tank or a drainage well, because you have an inlet pipe for this, through which all drains will enter the central sewer.
Photo: underfloor piping system If you do not have such an opportunity as a connection to the central city sewer or a pit device, then you can also use the pipeline system under the floor, but only with the outlet to the drainage well.
In the case of a drainage well, in principle, it is also possible to use a pit, which will be located under the floor with gaps, and the discharge of wastewater is simply carried out not to fields, reservoirs, rivers or ravines, but directly to a drainage well with an expanded clay filtration bottom.
Which sewerage system inside the bath you would not choose: with or without a pipeline, but with a pit, in any case, you will have to take care of where the wastewater from the bath should be discharged.
Important! You should also study all the recommendations and advice of specialists that cover not only the standard procedures for arranging an internal sewer system in a bath, but also features and specific points that relate exclusively to arranging sewers in baths.
- in the process of connecting plumbing or drain points to the pipes in the bath, it is necessary to equip a water seal at each such point so that unpleasant odors do not penetrate into the premises. For plumbing, water locks are created using siphons, for a pit using a special plate, for a pipeline going to a drainage well, it is allowed to use a pipe slope that will be equal to or greater than the diameter of the pipe itself, and a siphon will also be enough for the pool;
- when laying any pipeline in the bath, it is necessary to take into account high temperatures, and therefore use building materials made of durable and heat-resistant plastic or any other material;
- pipe slopes must be at least 2-3 mm and not more than 15 mm per 1 linear meter of pipe;
- if there are places where several pipes are connected, then inspection wells should be installed there to make it easier to clear the sewer from blockages;
- all valves, mixers or stopcocks must be made of non-flammable and non-consumable materials. It is also desirable to use door handles, towel racks, shelves for detergents and personal hygiene products from materials with low thermal conductivity;
- all drain holes in the floor of the bath rooms must be protected with nets that will prevent leaves from brooms, hair and other debris from entering the sewer that could clog the pipeline;
- it is desirable to place all valves and taps as low as possible, closer to the floor because the temperature there will not be so high;
- it is impossible to lay the pipeline near heating appliances, fireplaces or sauna stoves;
- the pit should be located at certain distances from various objects.
The pit must have certain parameters:
- location from the foundation of the building by 50 cm;
- the depth of the pit is about 70 cm;
- section - 50 x 50 cm;
- covering with a layer of concrete - 10 cm;
- location from the drainage well at least 2.5 m.
Outdoor sewerage
The central city sewer lines do not belong to the arrangement of sewerage for a bath with their own hands, and therefore there is no need to consider them.
The only thing that is important to study is the construction of an autonomous external sewage system for a bath.
If the groundwater on your site is low enough that it will not interfere with construction work and the operation of sewer systems or installations, then you can safely plan the construction of a drain or drainage well.
To install a drain well, you need to take a few steps:
- dig a pit no closer to the bath than 3-4 m. You determine the size of the pit yourself, based on the container without a bottom that you have (reinforced concrete rings, plastic containers or masonry brick walls). The depth of the pit should be below the freezing of the soil, if, for example, it is 70 cm, then the pit should be dug 1.5 m deeper;
- trenches for the drain pipe are also dug, which should be dug to a depth below the freezing depth of the soil in your area. For example, if the depth of soil freezing is 70 cm, then trenches should be dug 50 cm lower;
Photo: drain pipe trench - the bottom of a pit lined with bricks or a container without a bottom must be lined with a layer of crushed stone or any other filter material. The layer must be at least 20 cm high and not more than 50 cm high;
- all pipes that are laid in trenches must be laid on a pillow of sand, 10-15 cm high, and then sprinkled with crushed stone or sand, which together with the laid pipe gives 40 cm in width and 40 cm in height;
Photo: lay pipes on a pillow of sand - if you install some kind of container without a bottom, then its outer walls should also be sprinkled with a dry mixture of sand and cement, lightly tamping;
- a ventilation pipe must be attached to the well, which must be on the ground at a height of not less than 60 cm;
- Before backfilling the soil, the drainage or drain well must be covered with a lid or ceiling with a sewer manhole. The cover or sewer hatches are not covered with earth because this is the technical part of the drainage well, which must be opened regularly to provide free access to clean the well from accumulated sediment.
The external sewerage for a bath also includes the arrangement of a septic tank on the site, to which sewer pipes coming from the bath are connected. A septic tank is necessary if there are bathrooms in the bath.
After all, drains with feces are already considered the dirtiest than just soapy water from washing or taking a shower.
The principle of operation of the septic tank is such that it effectively cleans drains with various inclusions, and therefore, if there is a toilet in the bath, it is most advisable to install a septic tank.
It can be both factory-made, already made in the form of a ready-made system, which includes a sufficient number of chambers and all kinds of devices for wastewater treatment. Also, a septic tank can be equipped on the attached site and by yourself.
Photo: septic tank for a bath To do this, you can use any containers - from reinforced concrete structures to plastic containers or used car tires.
If the structure is light in weight, then it should be “anchored”, that is, it should be attached with special cables to a concrete platform at the bottom of the pit. And if the structure is heavy enough, then this is not necessary.
With lightweight structures, the outer walls of sewer tanks or septic tank systems are sprinkled with mandatory filling of water in the tank.
The filled water should exceed the level of the sprinkle by 1/3. If desired, and if there is such an opportunity, an additional filtration well can be installed to the septic tank, which will act as a post-treatment of wastewater.
Important! This is especially interesting for those who plan to use purified water for irrigation of the garden or fields, or for technical needs.
Video: laying pipes and sewers
Ventilation in the bath
In order to properly equip the ventilation system in the bath, in order to avoid tragic cases, you should familiarize yourself with the hot steam circulation scheme and the temperature in the bath.
Whoever did not think about temperature fluctuations in the bath during the steam room, or forgot from school physics lessons, we recall that the highest temperatures are at the top, and the lowest ones are at the bottom.
Thus, a vent with an outgoing pipe should be made at the top of the steam room. And in order for fresh air to enter the room, it is necessary to make a hole at the bottom, almost at the very floor.
Those holes that are arranged under the ceiling are called exhaust (pulling excess steam out), and those near the floor are called supply (fresh air).
Photo: exhaust holes With proper ventilation, you will not only save yourself from exposure to hot steam, but also protect yourself from carbon monoxide.
Exhaust openings can be equipped with special automatic hatches that will work when the air temperature in the steam room reaches a certain point.
With the simplest system, the ventilation holes in the bath are closed with wooden plugs to heat the air in the steam room, and then the holes are opened when it is necessary to provide the rooms with clean and hot air in the bath.
How to choose sewer equipment
The following components can be attributed to the sewer equipment for the bath:
- pipes;
- plumbing;
- connecting elements and materials;
- capacity for a drainage or storage well;
- septic tanks.
Pipes should be used those made of heat-resistant materials. It can be both metal and plastic pipe products.
Most of all, plastic pipes made of polymeric materials are used today: polypropylene (PP) or low-pressure polyethylene (HDPE).
Such pipes are able to withstand temperatures up to + 95% if it is a high-quality material. With low quality, plastic pipes can withstand only + 75% degrees.
If you are making internal sewerage for a bath from a pipeline, then take high-quality PP or HDPE pipes.
Important! And if all you need is a pipe for the outlet of hot drains outside the bath, then you can use plastic pipes that can withstand temperatures up to 50-75% degrees - this is enough to drain the already slightly cooled drains of used water from the outside.
Plumbing for the bath should also be selected only one that can withstand hot air.
It is clear that there is no plumbing in the steam room as such, but one should not forget that if the steam room is combined with the washing room and is separated from it only by a small partition, then care should be taken to purchase a rotary shower that is mounted on the wall.
A rotary shower is installed in the wall, covered with a panel and supplies only jets of water, and therefore it is very convenient and even safe to use such a shower in the bath, because the risks of getting burned on the metal surface of the shower are minimized.
Photo: rotary shower For rooms in the bath, which are isolated from the steam room, you can use ordinary plumbing. So for the washing room, which is separated from the steam room, where there is no hot air, you can install a very comfortable column shower, which is ideal for the conditions in the bath.
Such a shower is perfectly connected to pipes of an internal sewage system of a smaller diameter, then the pipes are connected through an adapter to such an important section of the sewer system in the bath as, thanks to which the effluent from the shower (as well as from other plumbing and equipment) is transported and fed to sewage treatment structures.
Photo: shower column Connecting elements and materials are all kinds of adapters, fittings, turn signals, sanitary silicone and other materials with which plumbing is connected to the sewer pipeline in the bath.
Important! Sealant or plumbing silicone must be present, because they provide increased sealing of plumbing joints with pipes or pipes between themselves.
The whole system must be airtight and not leak, otherwise you will constantly have all sorts of discomforts in the bath.
Sewer sanitary equipment for a bath should also include septic tanks, which are used, as a rule, for autonomous (individual) sewer systems.
The principle of operation of the septic tank is such that, taking wastewater in the first chamber, it purifies them with the help of biological mass (anaerobic or aerobic bacteria, depending on the model of the septic tank) in activated sludge, where wastewater is processed and converted into sludge and water.
Water in the first chamber, thus, settles, accumulates, reaches a certain level and into the second chamber, where the next stage of wastewater treatment takes place.
Depending on the model of the septic structure and the devices that it has in itself, the second stage of wastewater treatment can occur under the influence of aerators that supply air flows to the water.
If there are no such devices, then the effluents also settle and flow into the next chamber, or a filtration well or fields. At the last stages, the water is purified by almost 95-98%, which is considered a high degree of purification.
Thus, all the water used in the bath, plus, if there is a toilet, is cleaned and can be safely taken to the fields, used to irrigate lawns, gardens and vegetable gardens, and even used for household and technical needs.
flooring features
The device of the floor in the bath has several options for laying it:
- leaking leaky floor;
- capital self-leveling floor;
- continuous sloping flooring with gutters.
The arrangement of sewage in the bath directly depends on the type of laying of boards on the floor or self-leveling concrete screed.
Leakable and non-leakable floors
Leakable floors include non-hermetic floor structures that allow used water during bathing procedures to freely drain into a pit equipped under the floor.
The design of such floors is such that the boards that are laid on wooden logs, and those, in turn, stand steadily on small brick racks, spread with a small gap between them - about 5 mm.
Photo: flowing fields Leakproof floors include both self-leveling concrete floors and wooden floors with boards tightly adjacent to each other.
The advantages of concrete flooring are their strength and aesthetics in terms of decorating materials such as tiles.
All impermeable floors are equipped with a slope towards the drain hole, where the drain pipe is located. Such floors are made in the first place, after the walls and roof.
Photo: drain hole where the drain pipe is located For lovers of everything natural and natural, a solid bath floor with tight-fitting boards is suitable. It is also important to take into account the slope towards the hole where the used water should drain.
Such floors can also be equipped with gutters along the walls, instead of a drain hole in the middle of the washroom or steam room.
Photo: solid floor for a bath with tight-fitting boards If the floor is impervious, then a protective grate must be installed for the drain hole, which does not allow the sewer system to become clogged from the leaves of bath brooms or skeins of hair.
How to arrange a manhole for communications
Inspection wells in the areas of sewer systems for a bath are installed in cases where the length of the external sewer is more than 10 meters.
Also, the branching of the pipeline also belongs to the reasons for equipping sewage with manholes. It is in the areas of pipe connection, their turns and drops that it is necessary to install manholes.
Important! Wells of this kind are needed in order to regularly check pipes for blockages and, if necessary, to clean the sewer pipes in a timely manner.
There are accepted norms and distances that are acceptable between manholes on an extensive sewer route. These norms of permissible distances depend on the diameter of the pipes that are used for laying external sewers.
For a bath, as a rule, sewer pipes no more than 155 mm in diameter are used, and therefore the permissible installation distances for manholes should be at least 35 m.
Such wells can be either concrete rings through which sewer pipes pass, or plastic turning wells or adapters that are built into the pipes as their complement.
Concrete structures perfectly protect the most vulnerable sections of the pipeline, and also provide full access for the repairman to go down into the well and check the sewer pipes for blockages.
Important! Such wells are necessarily equipped with an overlap and a lid or a sewer manhole. This must be done so that precipitation or debris does not get into the well.
Photo: installation of a manhole When installing a reinforced concrete manhole, it is necessary to make holes with a grinder where the pipes will run through the reinforced concrete ring. Then lower the ring into the trench, expanded for the well.
Therefore, pass the pipes through the well so that the junctions of the pipes are inside the ring. Tightly seal the joints of the pipes and the surfaces of the walls of the concrete ring, and then sprinkle the outer walls of the reinforced concrete well with a dry mixture of sand and cement (1: 1).
The linear type of the manhole is arranged where the section of the external sewer pipeline is straight, and the rotary type is located at the corners and turns of the sewer line.
There are also plastic manholes, which are much easier to install, and they last much longer than reinforced concrete products, which are regularly sprinkled.
Photo: plastic manhole It is easier to install such wells because they are lightweight and even one person can handle them during installation. In addition, most models of such wells are made with sealed pipes already installed for connecting pipes of various diameters to the well.
And this, you see, already eliminates an impressive piece of work. Installing such a well is a pleasure. During installation, it is also necessary to sprinkle the outer walls of such a well with a dry mixture of sand and cement for a more durable installation.
For any scheme and project for arranging a bath with a sewer system, it is necessary to apply well-planned methods and technologies.
Just as before, classical technologies are suitable, those of the times that our ancestors used, arranging Russian baths on their plots. Modern technologies can also be applied no less than old ones.
Important! The most important condition for installing and laying a sewer for a bath is the correct implementation of all requirements, recommendations for drainage, drainage, ventilation, and wastewater treatment.
If all precautions and rules are followed, then your bath sewer system will always work at the highest level.
Video: do-it-yourself sewerage
It is difficult to imagine a country house without a bath or sauna. Relax, take a steam bath from the heart, relieve fatigue or use the bathhouse as a temporary home during the construction of the main house - there are many options for use. It is not surprising that interest in the topic is growing among FORUMHOUSE users from year to year.
Our portal has already told in detail where to place it on the site, how to finish the steam room. We continue the topic. From our material you will learn:
- What engineering communications are needed.
- How to install a simple and budget plumbing.
- What are the nuances to consider when installing electricians.
The nuances of installation and selection of utilities in the bath
Without properly constructed communications - water supply (option - we carry water from a well, we do not consider it), electricity, ventilation, sewage and sanitation, normal use of the bath is impossible. At the same time, due to the peculiarities of the operating mode of a bath or sauna, and this is high humidity and temperature, special requirements are imposed on engineering networks for safety of use and durability.
In addition, even at the design stage, it is necessary to decide whether the bath will be a separate structure, or we will limit ourselves to building a simple sauna inside the house.
Practice shows that most often a bath is built in the form of a separate washing and bathing complex. There are both options for relatively simple baths / saunas, as well as complex and expensive facilities (with a SPA area and a swimming pool) used for recreation and entertainment.
Regardless of the option for using the bath, we remember the main rule: first a project is made (based on the preferences of the owner and the expected mode of operation of the “wet” room).
Now we calculate the required volume of water consumption, and also determine the required number of water points. This is a shower or shower stall, a sink with a mixer, a washing machine connection point, a toilet bowl supply, a storage tank, etc.
If an electric heater is supposed to be the heat source, we calculate whether the electrical network will withstand the additional load. Do not forget about the water heater for preparing hot water, and this is also an additional load on the power grid.
We think in advance how to supply electricity (underground or air) and water to the bathhouse. Is the flow rate of the well sufficient, how to dispose of wastewater, will the septic tank cope with the mass discharge of water, or is it necessary to design the separation of wastewater, etc.
Only after collecting all the necessary data and estimating the approximate number of people who will use the bath, you can proceed to the design of engineering networks and the direct construction of the bath.
Such an approach - careful planning, will avoid costly rework in the future, when the bath / sauna has already been built. For example, it turns out that the electrical wiring and machines do not pull the connected electrical equipment, there are not enough points for, and the pump power is not enough to quickly fill the font or pool with water.
There are many features, for each of them you can write a separate article. Those who wish to find answers to the above questions are advised to read the articles: and observe all boundaries from the treatment plant to other objects on the site, and.
Move on. Take, for example, the usual "budget" bath - a wooden structure made of timber or logs. It is necessary to mount a water supply system and conduct an electrician in it. It is required to understand: what basic moments pay attention to equip high-quality engineering communications.
Installation of plumbing in the bath
The first thing to think about when designing a water pipe in a bath is its mode of operation - year-round or seasonal. If the bath is not planned to be used in winter, or it is supposed to be launched only on weekends, it is necessary to ensure that water is drained from pipes and plumbing (for example, a toilet bowl). If this is not done, then at negative temperatures the water will freeze and can break the pipes.
Our users solve this problem in different ways.
Kolek2575 Member of FORUMHOUSE
I plan to put a stove with a water heat exchanger on the pipe in the bathhouse. Frosts at us reach - 30 °C. Haven't decided what to do with the water yet. Leave it, break it. Drain every time?
According to experienced participants, there can be two options: either drain the water, or prevent the bath from freezing. For example, on the advice dokainfo, We use a self-regulating heating cable.
After the completion of the bath procedures, the water is drained from the heating tank and the shower cabin. In order for the water to drain freely into the well, we put a check valve on the submersible pump.
When installing such a system, we provide for the necessary slopes of the pipes so that the water flows freely by gravity.
But the heating cable is an additional complexity during installation. Power outages are also possible. If a pumping station is used to create pressure in the water supply system, then the accumulator becomes a bottleneck. From it, with infrequent visits to the bathhouse in winter, you will also have to drain the water or completely dismantle the station and store it in a warm room.
The methods of bath water supply, which are used by users of our portal in the winter, are interesting.
Sanap FORUMHOUSE User
In summer, I use a pumping station to provide the bathhouse with water + an electric water heater is installed. As soon as the temperature drops below zero, I drain all the water from the water supply, and in winter I use imported water to operate the bath. For 2-3 people, 50-70 liters is enough to wash. For contrasting procedures, we wipe ourselves with snow.
Also interesting is the user experience with the nickname 8k84r. The water supply of the bath is done like this - water from the well is pumped by a submersible pump. Above the steam room, in a heated room, a hydraulic accumulator is mounted, as well as an electric storage boiler for heating water in summer. Plus an open system with a tank, fed from a hydraulic accumulator.
When leaving, all taps open and the water drains into the sewer. Turn off the pump, air the pump line. It all takes about 5 minutes. Arriving, we flood the bathhouse, close the taps and turn on the power to the pump.
For clarity, we offer a diagram of the water supply system of the bath from Putnik2008.
Note: for heating water, a copper pipe is used, bent into a spiral, which was laid on the stones of an electric heater.
A 30 l canister is used as a storage tank.
Putnik2008 FORUMHOUSE User
Also, for a simple bath plumbing scheme, you can mount a capacity of 200 liters in the “attic”, which will provide sufficient water pressure when the tap is opened, or to wash in the shower. After completing the bath procedures, we leave the tap open for 15 minutes, while the water drains back into the well by gravity, but such a Spartan system, of course, is not suitable for everyone.
The bottleneck of the gravity system, with irregular use of the bath in winter, may be the depth of freezing, which depends on the region. To prevent freezing of the pipeline, it is laid below the freezing depth, a heating cable is used or insulated.
How to make a simple and effective winter plumbing that will not freeze at sub-zero temperatures and that does not require a heating cable is described in the article.
Features of the installation of electrical wiring in the bath
A complete bath water supply system is impossible without a reliable power supply to the pump, which provides the necessary water pressure in the water supply. In addition: lighting, electrical appliances used in the bath, water heaters, etc., must also be connected to the mains.
Moreover, unlike an ordinary house, a bath / sauna is a place with high humidity and temperatures, which means that special requirements are imposed on the electrical network to guarantee its safe operation.
T0lyanych FORUMHOUSE User
A bathhouse is a humid room, so the wiring in the bathhouse is carried out in accordance with the requirements of the Electrical Installation Code for saunas, bathrooms and showers.
Hence: in the steam room and in the washing room there should not be any electrical appliances such as a washing machine, sockets, junction boxes and switches. This equipment is located in the rest room, and a separate wire goes to each light bulb (in a splash-proof housing) in the steam room and washing room. If an electric heater is used for heating, then for its connection we use a solid cable coming from the switchboard located in the rest room or dressing room.
According to the EIC, paragraph 7.1.40. In saunas for zones 3 and 4 in accordance with GOST R 50571.12-96 "Electrical installations of buildings - Part 7. Requirements for special electrical installations - Section 703. In rooms containing sauna heaters", electrical wiring with a permissible insulation temperature of 170 ° C must be used.
We choose special ceiling lamps / lamps - sealed, designed for operation in a humid room. The seal between the base and the cover must be made of heat-resistant silicone, and not rubber, which can crumble under the influence of high temperature.
Degree of protection of the lamp IP54. A switchboard, all switches, sockets and pumping stations are installed in the rest room. In addition to preventing electric shock, this will help prevent premature equipment failure due to corrosion caused by moisture in the washroom.
T0lyanych
Do not forget about the device of a separate grounding near the bath, even if the main grounding is installed in the house.
This is the basics of installing electricians in the bath. Let's move on to practice. As experience shows, the greatest number of questions is the choice of an electric cable for a bath, the method of its wiring, as well as safe options for electric lighting of a washing room and a steam room.
The baths of our ancestors did not have communications. The furnace was made "in a black way", there was a well with water nearby, and next to it was a cesspool. Today, everything has changed significantly. Steam rooms are built from a variety of materials, these are: unplaned timber, log house, profiled timber, rounded logs, glued timber, frame technology - and all known communications must be connected to each type of baths.
What will we need?
Even at the construction stage, the baths provide for the supply of the necessary networks. This is electricity, water, gas, if it is planned to install a gas boiler, sewerage or drainage system. Note that the electricity in the bath is used not only for lighting, but also for connecting electrical appliances and an electric furnace. Often stove-heaters or gas-fired boilers are also used. The water supply from the well is carried out by a pump, which is also powered by electricity. In a modern bathhouse, heated floors are often made. In addition, you need to drink tea, listen to music and much more. To connect the bath to the mains, you need to obtain permission, and the electrical wiring and appliances themselves must be laid in accordance with certain requirements and standards.
We supply water
During the construction of the bath, they think over the water supply, because one of the main tasks is hygienic, so the presence of hot and cold water in the bath is a must! Without this communication, it is simply impossible to wash yourself. The main sources are centralized or autonomous systems, an alternative is a well. If your bath is located in the country, then it is better to make an autonomous water supply or a well, since water is supplied from the central system with frequent interruptions. A well with water is quite suitable for a small bath. You can also install large storage tanks, where you can pump water at any time and use it without hindrance.
To prepare hot water, you will need an electric boiler or a gas boiler. Sufficient water exchange for washing an average family is 100 liters. The electric option allows you to heat water very quickly and apply it immediately. The water heater has a permanent connection scheme, so any number of visitors can wash. The only drawback is that the increased power consumption is not always cost-effective. Installing a gas boiler is a laborious process and can only be carried out by certified specialists, but in the future it is a good savings on water supply.
Installation of the water supply system is carried out from metal-plastic or polypropylene pipes. Fittings are used to connect elements. Cold and hot water will allow you to wash after eating, to carry out incandescent procedures. A shower is a more convenient way to wash than a bucket of water. In addition, this is an excellent system that saves space. There is no need to set up benches for washing. A little advice - in order not to violate the hygienic situation in the steam room and washing room, be sure to wash all the shelves and benches after eating and washing with plenty of water.
Hot water can be obtained in a more economical way than installing a gas or electric boiler. This is the arrangement of the circulation system through a special pipe, which is located in the chimney of the furnace. The circulation of water is carried out by a pump.
Making a sewer
Sewerage- a mandatory communication system for any bath. This is not only a toilet, but also a water disposal. If you do not have a central system, then it is enough to equip a cesspool or septic tank (a modern sewer cleaning system). Really do the work yourself. This is a small water well. To equip the system, special pipes and a water seal are laid in the floor, through which water flows into the collection tank. The septic tank is filled with a special compound. Bacteria decompose faeces, reducing the amount of waste tenfold. Water settles and fits into the ground. Drain drains are installed in the steam room, washing room and toilet. A trapik is a special water seal that reliably "locks" odors in pipes, preventing it from entering the premises. A grate must be installed on it, which protects the system from clogging the sewer with leaves. In the steam room, a threshold with a height of 15–20 cm is necessarily built, so the expediency of arranging a spillway is obvious.
A septic tank is a fairly simple system that can serve without repair and maintenance for a long time. However, this system is not suitable if the groundwater level is above 2 m. If this level exceeds the specified limits, then a sealed container is required, water and waste from which are pumped out by sewers. Sewerage, which is made according to all the rules, allows you not to experience discomfort when visiting the bath. You just need to do everything in strict accordance with the recommendations of experts.
Wiring electricity to the bath
The laying of electrical wiring in the bath is given special attention. In fact, only the part that goes directly into the steam room requires special treatment. In this room, special conditions - high humidity and temperature. You need to start laying from the main lighting panel, in which a separate machine and RCD are installed on the bath (protection will prevent the possibility of electric shock). The ratings of circuit breakers, RCDs and the wire cross-section are selected individually depending on the number of electrical equipment and the power of the fixtures.
If you only have fixtures available, the wire cross-section and ratings of circuit breakers are taken to the minimum, enough for a current of 16A. Many have additional equipment, a refrigerator, an electric heater, possibly a pump. In this case, a specific approach and calculation of the consumed load is required and, accordingly, the selection of an introductory machine and cable cross-section.
The wiring in the dressing room is not fundamentally different from the same as in an ordinary house. The only difference is the wood finish and the corresponding wiring - external in a corrugated pipe. Fasten the elements to the walls using special brackets. The location of sockets and switches is chosen individually, the distance from the floor to the switches is 150-170 cm, from the floor to sockets - 50-60 cm. The distance of horizontal wiring from the ceiling along the wall is 10-20 cm. The light in the dressing room can be any, you can hang an ordinary chandelier with incandescent lamps. It is desirable that the lamps are protected by shades from below. If the flask bursts, the glass will not fall on the floor and the likelihood of cuts will decrease.
Separately, it is necessary to consider the wiring and lighting device in the steam room. Luminaires must be selected with class IP44. The plafond should be glass, and the body should be metal. Plastic elements can be deformed by high temperatures. For wiring, it is advisable to use the wire brand RKGM. It is able to withstand a temperature range from -60 to +180 degrees for a long time. It should be especially noted that neither switches nor sockets can be located in the steam room. All this is placed in adjacent rooms, and the ends of the wires to the lamps located inside the steam room should be as short as possible and without additional connections.