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Choosing the right place for planting lilies

Natasha, you plant lilies in the spring, but where do you store them then?

Most lilies have strong stems that do not require supports. But some tall varieties at the time of abundant flowering will not interfere with the garter, especially during periods of heavy rains and winds. But by placing a peg next to an adult plant, we risk hurting and damaging the bulb. If you think the lilies may need support, install it when planting. Regarding the planting depth, you can find a variety of recommendations - from 5-7 to 15-20 cm. I for myself traditional method Trial and error came up with the following rules:

In order not to damage the roots, experienced gardeners recommend pouring at the bottom of the hole coarse sand, then distribute the bulbs on it, straighten the roots and cover them with sand, and then cover the bulbs with earth. Since the lily grows in one place for a long time (3-5 years), then, depending on the quality of the soil, 5-10 kg of well-rotted manure is applied to square meter, and also add 100 g of superphosphate and 50 g of potassium sulfate.

Lily bulbs are stored in a trench during the thaw. To stabilize temperature differences, place plastic bags filled with water in the trench. Using them, you can also check the condition of the bulbs: if the water is not frozen, then the bulbs are not frozen either.

If there is no room in the refrigerator for planting material, try using a basement or cellar for storage. But these options are quite risky, because the temperature conditions in the cellar and basement are not stable.

What kind of soil do lilies need

The temperature should be optimal - not low (the bulbs will freeze) and not high (the bulbs will start growing early);

how to plant lilies

• Tall varieties with large flowering stems (Wilmott, Henry, curly) are planted deeper than indicated above, and for lilies with stem roots, more great depth. Lily bulbs with a rosette of ground leaves (terracotta, snow-white, Catsby) are planted to a depth of two centimeters, with the expectation that the tops of the scales are located near the surface.
• Planting lilies requires advance thorough soil preparation, since in one place the lily will grow without a transplant from three to five years:
• For such delicate and sophisticated flowers as lilies, planting and care have great importance. This is especially true of the most beautiful exotic varieties. It is necessary not only to define correct timing planting, but also choose a good place for a flower bed with lilies, plant them according to one of the schemes, observing the required distance between plants and optimum depth in accordance with the characteristics of the type of lily.
• Zina, I don't dig up lilies for the winter. I don't know, maybe there are varieties that need to be dug up. All of my winters are great. But if I buy new varieties (in bulbs), then I plant them in the spring. And if grandmothers have a bush in the market, then of course I plant during the summer ... there are no losses

The larger the bulb and the higher the plant, the deeper it needs to be planted; in tall lilies, with a shallow planting, the stem may break off at the base during flowering;

How to plant lilies: to what depth, and according to what scheme

In the first year after planting, when the plants are still weak and not strong enough, experts advise partially or completely removing the buds so that the lilies can prepare for full bloom next year. During flowering, if necessary, tall stems can be tied to a support. Faded flowers from the peduncles should be removed, and the peduncles themselves should be cut off at the end of the season.

Some varieties of lilies do not like acidic soils, while others, on the contrary, prefer slightly acidic soil. Martagon hybrids can grow on any soil, Candidum hybrids and Tubular hybrids grow well on soils with an alkaline reaction; for them, wood ash, chalk or limestone is included in the preplant tillage at the rate of 200-400 g per 1 m2. American hybrids, on the contrary, prefer slightly acidic soils.

Air the lily bulbs bought or dug out of the flower garden a little so that you can easily shake off the ground from them. Lilies should not be dried for a long time - storage will not improve from this, on the contrary, it can be harmful, because for spring planting you will need juicy scales and healthy roots (which in no case need to be cut off).

Photo of a lily bulb ​Sufficient ventilation of the storage area must be ensured so that the bulbs are not exposed to various diseases and not moldy.

. First of all, dig holes with a scoop according to the chosen pattern to the desired depth. Prepare protective cushions in each hole with a mixture of washed river sand and ash. Plant the bulbs on the sand cushions, gently straightening their roots and slightly pressing the bulbs into the sand. Fill the hole with soil from above, water and mulch with peat. This completes the planting of lilies.

• The depth of planting lilies also depends on the characteristics of the soil: it is better to plant bulbs in sandy light soil deeper than in heavy soil. In general, a deeper planting provides the bulbs with sufficient moisture in summer, optimal temperature in winter, and protection from frost in spring. On the long underground part, more baby bulbs and stem roots are formed.
• In heavy soil, add humus, peat and sand, just do not overdo it with organic fertilizers, otherwise above-ground part lilies will quickly grow to the detriment of the formation of bulbs, plants will be less resistant to diseases and less winter-hardy;
• Lovingly selecting the most beautiful varieties lilies for your flower garden, and having waited for the right time to plant lilies, you suddenly realize that you have no idea at all what scheme to plant plants, and at what depth the lilies should be planted. Plant flowers too deep - they bloom late, and plant too shallow - plants can infect diseases.

But I don’t buy eastern new ones, I’m afraid that they will freeze ... In spring, bulbs can be planted not as deep as in autumn (especially those varieties that are supposed to be dug up for the winter); This amazing - truly royal - flower is very popular with gardeners. Most often, lily bulbs are planted in the ground in the fall. Now, in May, their sprouts have already appeared in the flower beds, the leaves are unfolding. But our changeable climate and winter frosts are fatal for some species. Such sissies include, in particular, common oriental hybrids - exquisite flowers with a rich exotic aroma. It is better to plant them in the spring, taking into account the whims and whims of these outlandish beauties when planting.

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Storing lily bulbs in winter: preparing for storage and choosing the right place

Bulbs purchased in the store must be processed for disinfection from diseases and protection from pests. The bulbs themselves should be dense, hard, without rotten scales and signs of mold, with live roots at least 5 cm long.

Pour into bag or wooden box peat, put the bulbs in it, then pour more peat and lay out the next row of bulbs. A container with planting material can be stored in a refrigerator, basement, loggia, etc. During the winter, you will need to check the bulbs several times: if dried roots and scales are found, sprinkle the plants with water. If mold appears on the bulbs, disinfect them with a concentrated solution of potassium permanganate.

Loggia, balcony, garage

Video about storing bulbs in winter

• Did you manage to buy bulbs of the kind of lilies that you have long dreamed of in the middle of winter? Or after autumn transplant Do you still have bulbs of lilies that have nowhere to attach yet? Whatever the reason why you do not yet have the opportunity to plant the bulbs in the ground, you urgently need to decide how to store lilies in the winter?
• Video about growing and planting lilies
• In podzolic poor soils per 1m2 add 8 kg of humus;

I just love lilies - they are my very, very favorite flowers. Thank you Marisha for sharing the secrets, using metal mesh the idea is cool, otherwise the rodents get me steadily. ​

Where can you store lily bulbs?

The optimal planting depth is 2-3 bulb heights.

An ideal place for planting oriental lilies in the conditions of Central Russia is a container. True, this may not be very convenient for tall varieties reaching 1.5 m in height, but for compact ones (up to 60-70 cm), perhaps nothing better can be invented. In winter, the container with the bulb is stored in a cool place (for example, a cellar). At the same time, it is very important that the soil in the container does not freeze, otherwise all our efforts lose their meaning. When planting in the ground, we choose a sunny corner for oriental lilies: these flowers are lovers of heat and light. But the base of the plants must be shaded - for example, by planting low annuals next to the lily. I have come across recommendations in the literature to plant lilies of oriental hybrids in partial shade, but my own experience tells me that the sun is still preferable. In a warm, sunny area sheltered from the winds, they even wintered in the ground, under a light cover of spruce branches and snow cover.

Bulb nests dug out for transplantation are cleaned of remnants of stems and dry scales and carefully examined. Dead parts must be removed, the bulbs themselves are washed under running water. Video about planting and transplanting lilies It is possible to provide for the storage of lilies in winter in cardboard containers, thermal chambers or containers with good thermal insulation on a balcony, loggia, covered parking or garage. The thickness of the thermal insulation must be made such that the planting material can easily survive both prolonged cold weather and very coldy under -30 degrees. Consider also where the containers with bulbs will be placed - whether they will receive heat from the floor or the wall adjacent to the house. AT sunny days in glazed rooms, the temperature can rise so high that lilies begin to sprout.​

Refrigerator, cellar, cellar

Experienced flower growers know various ways how to store lily bulbs in winter: you can keep planting material until spring in the refrigerator, in a bag of peat, or in open ground under deep snowdrifts. Choose for yourself the method of storing the bulbs that seems most convenient to you.​

The lily planting scheme is presented in three options:

in alkaline chernozem soils per 1 m2 - 4 kg of humus;

When planning how to plant lilies so that they look harmonious in a flower bed, be sure to consider the size, height, shape and color of flowers. For example, tall varieties of lilies are best planted in small groups or placed in the background flower beds. And undersized varieties of lilies with small flowers will go well in a flower bed with peonies, phloxes and daylilies.

I'm glad, Tanya, that I found an article for you useful idea)) Rodents are just a disaster! I dream that cats will drive them away from the garden

In spring, you can plant not only oriental lilies - on sale at this time there are bulbs of the most different varieties. True, the quality of planting material is sometimes upsetting: in heat, with a lack of light, the sprouts quickly stretch out, and the bulbs dry out, the scales lose their elasticity, and can be affected by rot. If we didn’t have enough strength to refrain from buying until the fall, we try to at least choose the strongest and healthiest bulbs with short sprouts. And we understand that they will please with flowering later than those planted in the fall. How to take care of plants during the season, details the article Lily - the virgin queen of the garden. When do you plant lilies?

You can not plant lilies in wet areas - from excess water in the soil, the roots begin to rot, diseases develop.

To protect against diseases, lily bulbs are pickled for 20 minutes in a 0.2% solution of foundationazole or a solution of karbofos (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water). You can also hold the bulbs for 30 minutes in a pink solution of potassium permanganate (5 g per 10 liters of water). The bulbs processed in this way are dried in a shaded, well-ventilated place. They are ready for planting, but if the site has not yet been prepared, then the bulbs are stored in a cool, shady place, covered with burlap or moss so that they do not dry out.

Preparing lily bulbs for storage

Another option is to transplant the bulbs from the ground into peat pots and transfer them to a frost-free basement. Two weeks before planting, peat pots can be taken out of the basement and started to be watered until a sprout hatches, then the plants can be planted in open ground right in the pots.

​Outdoor​ Many flower growers store lily bulbs in the refrigerator, placing planting material in plastic bags with wet peat. The advantage of the refrigerator is that the temperature in it is constantly at the same mark, due to which the bulbs are at rest. It is very important to choose the right temperature (from 0 to +5 degrees) so that the development of plants slows down, but the bulbs do not freeze. Already thawed bulbs are usually sold on the market - you should not freeze them again because of their increased sensitivity to sudden changes in temperature.

Single-line tape with a distance of 5-15 cm between lily bulbs in a row and 50 cm between lines;

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Lily bulbs. Processing and landing.

Under plowing, along with organic fertilizers, it is also desirable to introduce phosphorus, potash and nitrogen fertilizers into the soil.

Preparing the soil for planting lilies

Video about planting lilies

But the grid won't hurt either...

Thank you Marina for your informative article. Lilies are one of my favorite flowers. I love them… minimum care. I also always plant bulbs in the spring ... but here's a paradox ... I read that lilies do not grow well in heavy soils, but mine feel great. The only thing is that after 9 years of sitting in one place, the flowers are not as huge as before, of course, a transplant is required, but the place hurts for them good, last year I planted several bulbs in a new place, so the flowers were just huge))

Processing lily bulbs before planting

Oriental lilies do not like heavy, dense clay soils; calcareous soils are also not suitable for them. If the land is exactly like this on the site, it is better to plant the bulbs in a container or completely replace the soil at the planting site with a specially prepared mixture (recommended composition: sand, soddy soil, peat and coniferous litter in equal proportions; you can also use ready-made soil for flowers). Having decided to replace the soil, we dig a hole for planting about 30 cm deep, pour sand on the bottom (it will play the role of drainage) and add the soil mixture. It is better to grow, lilies will bloom more magnificently and longer on fertile soil. If necessary, humus or compost is added before planting (at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 sq.m of planting area), wood ash (200 g per 1 sq.m), potash fertilizers(20-30 g), superphosphate (30-40 g). I am not a fan of mineral fertilizers, and I don’t specifically fertilize the land for planting lilies, but I try to plant them in well-cultivated areas with nutritious soil.

The depth of planting of lily bulbs depends not only on the size of the bulbs and the composition of the soil, which is the main criterion for all other bulbous plants. Different varieties of lilies require different planting depths.​

​When favorable conditions storage, all planting material will remain healthy and quickly start to grow after planting. Thus, knowing where and how to store lily bulbs in winter time, you can easily grow the most beautiful specimens of this elegant flower on your site.​

How to plant lily bulbs?

Another interesting option for storing lilies is outdoor storage. This method will be successful only if you provide excellent drainage, dry thermal insulation and a waterproof coating for the planting material. You need to choose a place where large snowdrifts lie in winter, and in spring the snow melts last. The best place for this is a site with north side at home.​

Storing lily bulbs in the refrigerator is complicated by the fact that fruits are stored in the vegetable compartment, which secrete

​Basic conditions proper storage bulbs:​

Two-line tape (for medium-sized lilies) with a distance between the bulbs of 15-25 cm, 25 between the lines, and 70 cm between the tapes;

Keep in mind that different types of lily require different soil acidity. Most varieties of lily grow well in neutral soil, but umbellate, curly, bulbous, white, Tibetan, solid lilies, as well as Regale and Martagon lilies prefer slightly alkaline soil. On acidified soils, lilies can grow: Dahurian, tiger, drooping, David, Wilmott, Maksimovich.

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Features of spring planting lilies

A good option would be to combine roses and lily flowers on the same bed - planting these flowers together will greatly facilitate your troubles with sheltering plants for the winter.

Selecting a landing site

Marina, I didn’t know about the nets either. And I blame the loss (a very rare occurrence) of some bulbs for moles digging their moves; bulbs fail, but now I think maybe I'm wrong, I have a lot of types of lilies. then LA and LO hybrids; then I tried the eastern ones, they grow without additional shelter, then LOO and others. Now I'm interested in high large quantity flowers; I bought it yesterday (now almost near the house they made a platform for imported markets-fairs to my misfortune), so now I’ll plant it with a net, but if I use a nylon net? .. Will they really gnaw through? Periodically, you need to dig up lilies for seating, or give it to someone, and you can get hurt on a metal one. And if you use nylon in 2.3 layers? I’ll try the lilies, I’ll have to plant them, then I’ll share.
Natasha, I think it depends on the type of lilies, and on the specific characteristics of the soil. I spoke more about the eastern ones - they are still capricious. Asian women are much less demanding - I myself have planted several bulbs very unsuccessfully since last year, as they say, against the rules, and nothing - they bloomed, overwintered, now I see from young sprouts that they have also multiplied

Soil and fertilizer

Rodents love to feast on lily bulbs. I have already told once how these gluttonous animals left me without planting material. If mice are frequent guests in your garden, you should not count on the fact that in the summer they already have enough food. In spring, as in autumn, when planting lilies, it is advisable to use bulb baskets or a metal mesh.

Bulb protection

Low-growing varieties are usually deepened by 10-12 cm, the distance between the bulbs is 20 cm. Tall - bulbs are planted to a depth of 15-20 cm, at a distance of 30 cm. Small baby bulbs are planted at a shallower depth (about 2/3 of the depth of an adult bulb).
Lilies, like all bulbous plants, require proper handling of the bulb when planting, as well as careful pre-treatment soil on the site.

Landing nuances

In the fall, dig a shallow trench in the chosen place, reinforce its walls with boards and provide a cover. Calculate the size of the trench so that the packages with the bulbs fit in it. Place a film under the trench cover, otherwise the cover will freeze with the onset of winter. Cardboard boxes covered with dry peat can be used as thermal insulation. Do not forget to provide good drainage so that in the spring there is no melt water in the chosen place.​

• ethylene
• The storage location should not be too dry so that the bulbs do not lose moisture and wrinkle;
• Three-line tape (for undersized lilies) with a distance between the bulbs of 10-15 cm, keeping the same amount between the tapes and lines as with a two-line landing.

So, the place for planting lilies has been chosen, the soil has been prepared, now you need to decide at what depth to plant lilies. Here it is necessary to take into account not only the variety of lily, but also the size of the bulb, the ability of the plant to form stem roots. Basically, the bulbs are planted in the ground to a depth that is three times their diameter.

Natasha, Russia

​Choosing appropriate place for planting lilies, keep in mind that these flowers need nutritious loose soil, clean of weeds and permeable. Most Asian lilies and tubular hybrids like open spaces, but you can grow them in light shade, just not next to trees - there is a strong shade and dried soil. Hanging lily, orange, daurian, pleasant, single-color, long-flowered, dwarf and chalcedonian lilies can be successfully grown by planting them in a sunny place. But the Japanese, golden, carniol, curly, two-row, calloused, beautiful, magnificent and reddish lilies prefer partial shade. Knowing how to plant lilies correctly, and which site is best to choose for growing, you will definitely achieve great results!​

Marina, Nekrasovskoe

Tatyana, I think that nylon can be used quite well - it is used to protect seedlings from rodents. So, they don’t like “synthetics”)) And with the “disappearance” of the bulbs, I have here interesting story came out ... The year before last, a friend shared lilies - there are a lot of onions, including small ones. Planted hastily, the place had to be prepared "on hastily”, Time was running out - the cold was on the threshold, and there was a lot to do. And last summer, I simply did not see a significant part of what was planted. I decided - either I planted it unsuccessfully (there was little depth, they suffered from frost), or the mice ate ... Well, there was no time to grieve - I covered the "bald patches" with yarrow and Veronica and calmed down. And this year I look - all my "loses" climbed out of the ground! The flower bed “bristled” with sprouts - those bulbs that were larger had already managed to give offspring, and then the “younger sisters” showed up ... So much for the loss :)) They disappeared themselves - they found themselves, anything can happen)) I ruined several bulbs of my time due to inexperience, until I figured out that they, in fact, require a different attitude towards themselves. Although among them, as I understand it, there are more fastidious varieties, and there are quite hardy ones. As for the soil, heavy soils can have a problem with breathability (they compact quickly) and standing water (especially if clay predominates). In fact, it is these two factors that are detrimental to the bulbs. If there is no risk that they will get wet, and if the soil is regularly loosened, then the lilies do not complain

Zinaida Fedorova, Moscow

To protect the bulbs from diseases, it is advised to powder the soil at the planting site with foundationazole. I usually use wood ash as a prophylactic.

Natasha, Russia

If it is known that the variety gives a lot of babies, the nests grow rapidly, then the distance between plants is increased.

Zinaida Fedorova, Moscow

The soil before planting is dug up to a depth of 35-40 cm, no less. I add 1 bucket of peat per square meter, and in heavy clay soil add 1 bucket of sand per meter.​

Tatyana

Marina, Nekrasovskoe

- This gas makes it difficult for lily bulbs to breathe. From excessive moisture, the bulbs can become moldy and hatch at the wrong time;

The flower, which will be discussed, is highly valued all over the world for its decorative effect and beauty, second only to the queen of garden space - the rose. Have you guessed which flower we are talking about? Of course, about the lily.

Lily is planted in spring and autumn, although the main planting is still adopted in early autumn.

How to treat lily bulbs before planting?

In the first days of August, lily bulbs are dug up, intended for division. Usually lilies are transplanted no more than once every 3-5 years. But in cases of need (unfortunate place, diseases) - this is done more often. In order not to be mistaken with the lily transplant date, you need to remember the end of flowering. After 30-45 days, the bulb will gain strength, after which it can be carefully dug up with a pitchfork and, divided, transplanted to a new place. In order for the lily bulbs to be well prepared for transplantation, it is necessary to cut the stems low immediately after flowering, leaving only small stumps.

After removing the bulb from the ground, it must be carefully examined. If there are scales with brown spots, it is advisable to carefully remove them. Then, holding the bulbs in a solution of karbofos (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) for 20 minutes, drying and cutting the roots, plant them in a new place.

If the bulbs are completely clean, it is enough to soak them for several minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate.

Ordinary planting of lilies in autumn

When planting large bulbs, deep grooves are made and planted to a depth that is obtained by adding three diameters of the bulb in height. If it is not possible to plant on the same day, it is necessary to put the bulbs in a box, sprinkle them with moistened peat or sawdust and put them in a cool place.

Autumn planting can be carried out until the air temperature drops below zero, some gardeners are guided by the time of planting garlic. Even if you bought the variety of interest a little later than the specified period, you should try to plant by digging a hole and spilling it warm water. You need to plant a bulb in the warmed earth and immediately cover it well with earth. In the ground, the percentage of survival will still be greater than in the apartment.

A whole curtain of lilies of the same variety can be obtained if, after planting the mother bulb, the removed upper scales are spread around it, sprinkling them with a layer of earth of 2-3 cm.

You can store the bulbs in the winter in the cellar, provided that the temperature there will remain from 0 to 3 degrees Celsius.

Should I buy sprouted bulbs in the fall?

If you bought lily bulbs with existing sprouts, then try to overcook them before planting in the refrigerator. The sprouts will have to be broken off, before putting the bulbs in the ground, wrap them with sphagnum. They need to be planted a little deeper than usual, “on the side”, and the landing site should be mulched. And then - how lucky with the weather, but most likely, these lilies will have to miss a year, i.e. flowering will come only in the third year (subject to a successful wintering).

There is another option - to use sprouted lily bulbs for forcing, followed by spring planting in the garden.

When planting, be sure to sign the varieties, otherwise you will quickly get confused in the names. In autumn, plantings are made by all known methods (bulbs, bulbs, babies, scales) except for planting with seeds.

What to do with sprouted scales?

It is best, of course, to plant them in the garden in the fall, but if the deadlines are missed or there is simply no such possibility, then it is recommended to plant them in a container with suitable soil, cover with clingfilm and place in the refrigerator, checking regularly to make sure they are not dry or moldy. You can plant directly with the scales, or you can separate it, and leave the scales for secondary germination!

If shoots nevertheless appear, then it will be necessary to provide the sprouts with illumination and a suitable temperature regime before spring planting.

planting lilies in spring

Lilies purchased in the spring must be stored in the cellar or lower section of the refrigerator before planting, at a temperature of + 1-2 ° C, shifting them with sphagnum or dry sawdust. It is important to prevent breaking off the young sprout that emerges from the bulb. If the sprout is large enough for planting, it is recommended to plant such a bulb obliquely. spring planting usually does not bloom, as the plant is only undergoing adaptation.

If your lily started to grow, it is better to plant it in a cup with earth. Let it grow in the apartment until the end of the cold weather. When the threat of frost has passed, plant the grown lily in open ground.

You can separate a few scales from the bulb and place them in damp peat, coco, sphagnum, or sawdust for sprouting. In the spring, the onions formed on the scales are planted in open ground, their flowering can occur in a year. If the weather does not allow planting in the garden, then it is better to plant the bulbs in cups, and when the heat is established, transfer them to the exhaust gas.

It is important to remember that lilies do not like low-lying places where they linger for a long time. melt water. It is advisable to plant lilies in sunny, high beds. When planting in spring, you need to water the lilies more abundantly, especially if there was little snow and the soil is dry.

Spring planting seeds

Sowing is done in February in loose fertile soil with the addition of sand. A closed bowl with seeds is placed in the refrigerator for 2-3 weeks, periodically airing, at the end of this period they are taken out and placed in a lighted place. If the seeds are not "dummy", then the seedlings will not keep you waiting. Some flower growers sow seeds in a hydrogel, and when seedlings appear, they are transplanted into cups with earth or peat tablets for further cultivation.

Stages of ripening lily seeds

Whenever you plant on your garden plot lilies, they won't keep you waiting long for a fabulous oasis to grace your garden with divine scents!

Since ancient times, the lily has been considered a flower. chastity, purity, freedom. She won the hearts of many people with her beauty, sophistication and tenderness. Every gardener strives to grow this flower in his garden. Lily is loved for its large inflorescences of bright beautiful coloring and for its simplicity. There are many options for growing these wonderful flowers. The most popular option that interests flower growers is planting lilies in the spring in the ground.

It's very simple perennial. So that this flower grows in the open field and pleases its unique beauty, it is necessary to properly care for him, as well as follow all the rules of landing. This flower is considered the most unpretentious in the selection of a seating place, but mistakes can be made when planting, and then the plant will not bloom or rot in the bulb.

When to plant lilies

Each gardener has his own opinion about the timing of seating lilies in open ground. But if you look into this in detail, you can see that plant bulbs correct in spring and autumn. Every season has its positive moment. If you plant bulbs in the spring, the flower will bloom at the same time of the year, delighting you with magnificent inflorescences.

But if you want the plants to be strong and healthy, while the bulbs are well rooted, you need to plant lilies in the fall. It is during this period that she will receive ideal root growth. It is a well-known fact that flowers with underground shoots (bulbs) are well strengthened at a positively low temperature. BUT heat well affects the development of the aerial part. A suitable time for autumn planting is the second half of August and until the end of September.

If last summer was cold, experts advise you to refrain from planting lilies in the spring, as they will not be able to bloom until next year. The most favorable time of the year for planting is the end of April.

Advantages and disadvantages of spring planting

There are cases that flower growers choose for planting early spring. The reason may be the lack of extra time or, most importantly, the uniqueness of a particular variety. Can be different reasons that influenced your decision to plant lilies at this particular time of the year. What are the advantages and disadvantages of spring for seating lilies?

Advantages of landing in the spring:

• Dug bulbs in autumn should be stored in a cold place until spring planting. Bulbs kept at home better preserved and do not freeze or decompose as in the ground in winter.
• Lilies planted in spring, thanks to a favorable environment, take root well in a new place.

Disadvantages of planting lilies in the spring:

• It happens that during the whole spring the root could not strengthen, because of this the flower lives thanks to the bulb, which means that its condition is very bad.
• Bulbs planted in spring do not give children, this fact is useful to those amateur flower growers who propagate lilies with the help of children.

In general, there are also disadvantages in the spring planting of a lily, but they are quite insignificant. You always need to take into account the variety of lilies, then you can know exactly what time of the year is favorable for your flower. An example can be given: if you take a North American lily for planting, it must be planted in the fall, and oriental hybrids will only benefit from spring seating.

spring planting lilies

Planting lilies in the spring provides complete protection of the bulbs from sagging and freezing. Roots are intensively formed in spring period time in late flowering varieties. Therefore, most often purchased healthy and large bulbs with sprouted sprouts are planted in the ground.

The purchase must be made very carefully, it is necessary to check how healthy the bulb is. At the same time, pay attention to the covering scales, it must be clean, without wet dark spots, and the roots are alive, not dried. Choosing a lily in the fall, you will not have problems with it, because you can plant it right away. By purchasing a plant in the spring, you can run into little trouble. The bulb will need to be saved with all your might. For this case, small holes should be made in polyethylene, sawdust or peat should be poured into it, bulbs should be laid and stored in the refrigerator until planting.

Spring planting of lilies in open ground is done when the snow melts from the place where you plan to plant flowers. This should be especially taken into account when planting oriental and tubular hybrids. From March 21, you can plant Tibetan, tiger and other varieties that start blooming in autumn. And in April, it is best to plant terry lilies, while it is necessary to cover the planting areas with mulch (weed grass, foliage, old sawdust, shavings, peel, peat compost and other materials, waste, as well as processed products).

How to plant lilies in the spring in the ground?

Every amateur florist should be able to properly plant lilies in the ground. We perform planting as follows:

How to plant lilies with sprouts?

• A large bulb is planted to a depth of 20 cm from its upper part, if there is a sprout.
• If the dimensions are average, then it is planted 10-15 cm from the top.
• When the sprouts are quite long (15-20 cm) - two varieties of Asian hybrids and hybrids must be planted into horizontal holes, their depth should be 10 cm. This is necessary so that the sprouts can slowly take a standing position in 2-3 weeks. During this time, the May cold is already ending, and everyone knows that they are very dangerous for delicate sprouts of lilies.

Lilies after transplanting should not be transplanted for at least 4 years, because this process can lead to a stop in their growth. Be sure to feed the plants with mineral and organic fertilizers after planting.

Soil preparation and processing

The soil for the fruitful cultivation of lilies must be loose, healthy, acid-base, soaked. The most common type of soil: coniferous litter, composition of soddy soil (land mixtures), peat (combustible mineral), gray coarse-grained river sand. You can also mix the soil for flowers.

We prepare the soil for spring planting after the ground thaws and becomes relatively soft:

• We dig up the earth by 35-40 cm.
• We make a drain to drain excess water.
• If varieties of other flowers grew in this place, add fresh soil or substrate (turf mixtures made up of various natural components and their substitutes).
• We saturate the soil mineral fertilizers or humus.
• We reduce the acidity to the required level using 500 g of chalk, or 200 g of wood ash per 1 m3 of soil.
• The soil must be watered.

For drainage, gravel or river pebbles are used. Pine needles mixed with sand are added to the soil so that the bulbs become stronger and become large, healthy. Most importantly, you need to remember that you cannot add biological fertilizers, and especially manure. Lay out the top layer of peat, rotten sawdust or compost ( organic fertilizer, obtained as a result of decay of various organic compounds under the influence of the activity of microorganisms).

When planting lilies choose a sunny place, but do not forget that you definitely need to know the variety of your flower. Be sure to monitor the depth of the holes, the distance between them, the formation of plants depends on this. Flowers should not grow in cramped conditions, it simply does not benefit them, and even then the flower garden looks bad. Take care that the areas where lilies are planted are not flooded with spring waters.

top dressing

It does not matter what time of the year you have chosen to plant flowers, whether it is spring or autumn, it is imperative to saturate the soil with mineral fertilizers (inorganic compounds that contain the nutrients necessary for plants). Just don't fertilize with fresh cow dung. He is destructive affect the roots stops growth. Given the type of soil, in the spring the soil is fed with such bioadditives:

• ammonium nitrate ( nitrogen fertilizer) 1 tablespoon per 1 m3 of soil.
• Nitroammofosku (complex nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium fertilizer) 50 grams per full bucket of water.
• Wood ash. It is the most fruitful fertilizer in the composition, which includes potassium, calcium, phosphorus.

When saturating the soil with minerals, you need to adhere to the dosage, a large number of additives does not allow sprouts to develop. For plants, the most useful substance is wood ash. She can feed the whole season up to 5-6 times. Wood ash releases an alkaline environment that is very beneficial for plants, and also prevents the appearance of pests and mold.

Flowers planted in the spring, in addition to the primary feeding, fertilize at least 2 more times. The soil is impregnated with a solution of nitrophoska before the buds ripen, and after they fade, with a solution of superphosphate. The last fertilizer is necessary to feed the bulb, preparing it for winter. Together with mineral supplements, disease prevention is carried out. In May, when the sprout is strengthened, the soil is impregnated with 1% Bordeaux mixture. This procedure must be repeated 2 more times in the summer only by spraying the entire flower. If the slightest signs of disease appear on the plant, for example, rot, prolong feeding, the bulb needs additional nutrition.

Mistakes when growing lilies

Mistakes made when planting lilies in the spring can lead to the death of plants. The most common mistakes and how to avoid them:

The rules for planting lilies are quite unpretentious. Flower growers should not hope that this year there will be rich flowering from spring plantings, but next year the flower bed will conquer you with the beauty and splendor of beautiful lilies.

Lilies are luxurious flowers, they have been cultivated since ancient times. As a result of many years of active selection, a huge number of varieties and hybrids of these flowers have appeared. By origin and biological characteristics, diverse varieties and hybrids are divided into nine groups. Asian hybrids are common in Russia: they are the most unpretentious and grow well and bloom even in northern gardens.

Selection of planting material

When purchasing planting material, it is necessary to clarify which group this or that belongs to. Each group corresponds to certain requirements for agricultural technology and cultivation methods (planting lilies, care, flowering time, storage). If it is not possible to determine whether the planting material belongs to any group, then it is better to refuse to purchase it. Lily bulbs bought in advance, which need to be overexposed for several days, should be stored in a cool and dark place and shifted with wet moss, sawdust, sand.

Preparing bulbs for planting

The success of the grower depends on the quality of the planting material. Therefore, the selection of lily bulbs, the planting of which is planned, must be careful. The bulbs must be healthy, their bottoms must not be damaged. If rusty and brown spots are visible on the scales, they must be removed, wilted roots should also be removed and too long cut off. Before planting, it is recommended to treat the bulbs with a 10% solution of karbofos (one tablespoon per ten liters of water) or a 0.2% solution of fundozol, or in a 0.1% solution. The bulbs are kept in the solution for no more than half an hour. The use of any insecticide has a beneficial effect on the development of the plant.

Landing time

Planting lilies is possible both in spring and autumn: in any case, the plants take root. Experienced flower growers still consider early autumn the most favorable period for planting. In warm autumn, the bulbs have time to take root, with early frosts they require shelter.

Spring planting of lilies is done early, until the young stems are stretched out. Otherwise, when landing, they may break.

Choosing a place for lilies

Lilies love the sun, but they do not need constant sunlight, they develop well and bloom in partial shade. The plot for the flower garden is chosen even and quite large. Flowers should be spacious, they should not interfere with each other. Usually they are seated once every five years, this also needs to be foreseen. If the flowers are transplanted more often, then you can not wait for a full-fledged, lush flowering. For new plantings, it is better to choose a completely new site on which lilies did not grow, in order to avoid diseases and pests.

Soil preparation

All varieties and hybrids of lilies are demanding on the soil, but the difficulty is that some of them grow well on alkaline ones, while others need acidic ones. In accordance with this, the earth is being prepared. A lily planted in unsuitable soil gets sick, withers, blooms poorly, and eventually dies.

Experienced flower growers form plantings so that flowers of the same group are located side by side, so it is easier to comply with growing conditions. The most common Asian hybrids in our gardens do best in neutral or slightly acidic soils. To do this, it is recommended to add wood ash to the ground: it fertilizes, disinfects, and neutralizes the soil cover.

The entire area is dug up to a depth of at least 35 centimeters. Then organic ones are added and coarse river sand is added. The site should be well drained - lilies do not tolerate stagnant moisture.

The day before, before planting, the earth is watered abundantly. In wet weather watering can be done directly into the planting grooves or holes.

planting lilies

The distance between plants is determined by the height and power of future flowers. Low lilies are planted at a distance of ten to fifteen centimeters, large - 25-30 centimeters from each other. River sand is poured into each hole at the bottom, an onion is placed on it, the roots are straightened, then covered with earth.

The depth of planting the bulb depends on its size and the composition of the soil. The bulb is planted at a depth two to three times the diameter of itself. In light sandy soil, the bulb is planted deeper than in clay, heavy.

Planting lilies is completed by watering and for this, peat, humus or sawdust are used.

Location: all lilies require protection from strong winds, but stagnation humid air, leading to the defeat of plants with gray rot, is very dangerous, so the site must be not only well protected from the winds, but also sufficiently ventilated. With light requirements begins a narrower approach to different groups of lilies. So, for a snow-white Lily and Tubular Hybrids, you should choose a sunny area. Asian Hybrids and LA Hybrids grow well in full sun and tolerate light shade. Lily Martagon and Eastern Hybrids require placement in partial shade.

The soil : lilies are very demanding on the soil. According to the reaction to the content of lime in the soil, lilies are divided into two groups. The first group includes species that tolerate a small amount of lime in the soil: Royal Lily, Henry Lily, Candidum Lily, Saranka Lily, Leopard Lily. The second group, more numerous, are lilies, for which the presence of lime in the soil is undesirable: Long-flowered lily, Gilded lily, Tiger lily. Canadian lily. Clay, water-resistant and sandy low-moisture soils are unsuitable for lilies. The area where the lilies are planned to be planted should not be flooded with water, because the bulbs can easily rot and die from stagnant water. Since many lilies belong to forest plants, fertile soils with a large humus layer, emerging from under a deciduous forest, are suitable for them. Therefore, make sure that the soil in the area reserved for lilies is well-drained, loose and sufficiently moist. Lilies grow in one place for several years, so preparing the soil for planting them is very important.

Before planting, the soil is dug up to a depth of 35-40 cm - taking into account the depth of planting bulbs (15-20 cm) and the growth of roots to the same depth. 1 bucket of sand and peat is added to the soil that is heavy in mechanical composition, 1 bucket of peat per 1 m 2 is added to light soil. Depending on the quality of the soil, 5-10 kg of humus (well-rotted manure) is added per 1 m 2, and 100 g of superphosphate and 50 g of potassium sulfate are added - the land is ready for planting Asian Hybrids and LA Hybrids. Since the Lily is snow-white, the Martagon lily and the Tubular Hybrids do not like acidic soils, wood ash, chalk or limestone are included in the preplant dressing of the soil at the rate of 200-500 g per 1 m 2. Oriental Hybrids, on the contrary, prefer slightly acidic soil. At the place of their landing, artificial drainage is first made, which is then covered with a mixture of equal parts of peat, soddy soil and humus and spilled with a strong solution of potassium permanganate. The applied fertilizers are mixed with the ground, the dry ground is moistened and the lilies are planted.

Landing and transfer: usually lilies are grown in one place without a transplant for 3-5 years. During this time, they form nests of bulbs. different ages and magnitude. If lilies in younger plantings get sick, they must be dug up and transplanted to another place, without adhering to such a long digging frequency. It should also be taken into account that the fast-growing lilies of Asiatic Hybrids and LA-Hybrids are transplanted more often, once every 3 years, and the slow-growing lilies of Martagon and Tubular Hybrids less often.

The time of transplanting to a new place should coincide with the end of the growing season, when the lily bulbs get stronger after flowering. AT northern regions Russia is the best time to transplant - early autumn(late August - September), in the middle lane - mid-autumn (September - early October), in the southern regions - late autumn (October - November). M.F. Kireeva notes that, if necessary, lily transplantation can be carried out at any time of the season, without disturbing the root ball, but it is better not to risk it. However, not all lilies are suitable for such transplant conditions. So, the snow-white lily has a development cycle different from other species and hybrids of lilies. Its bulbs are planted in August and in no case buried when planting: the distance from the top of the bulb to ground level should be no more than 3 cm. In September, a wintering rosette of leaves appears . The following spring, a flower-bearing stem grows from the middle of the rosette. This species blooms in early July, and after flowering, a period of relative rest begins. It is during this short period that the snow-white lily can be transplanted.

Before digging, the stems of lilies are cut off, then they dig out nests, shake off the ground and carefully examine. Dead scales and roots must be removed, and then the bulbs are washed under running water. Clean bulbs are pickled for 20 minutes in a 0.2% solution of foundationazole. For pickling, you can also use a solution of karbofos (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) and keep the bulbs in it for 20 minutes. In the absence of these drugs, lily bulbs are treated for at least 30 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate, prepared at the rate of 5 g per 10 liters of water. Then the processed bulbs are slightly dried in the shade: they cannot be kept in the sun due to the high sensitivity of lilies to drying of the roots. If the bulbs are not planted immediately after drying, then stacked in boxes and covered with damp moss or burlap, they can be stored until planting in a shady corner of the garden or in a barn. The roots of lily bulbs are shortened before planting, cutting to a length of 5-10 cm.

If you are going to purchase planting material, remember that it is half the success of the grower. Therefore, when buying, pay attention to the quality of the bulbs. They should be dense, hard, not moldy, without rotten scales, with live roots at least 5 cm long. A.V. Otroshko, one of the leading lily growers in Russia, recommends wrapping heavily dried lily bulbs damp cloth or soak for a while in water. If you purchase planting material in the fall, then there will be no hassle with the bulbs before planting: they just need to be pickled in one of the solutions and planted in a previously prepared area. And buying bulbs in early spring presents storage problems. Many amateur flower growers store lily planting material in perforated plastic bags, with dry high-moor peat or sphagnum in the lower compartment of the refrigerator at a temperature of + 2-5 C. You can do it differently. N. Rubinina from Moscow, before planting lily bulbs in open ground, plants them in plastic bottles. Having cut off the upper part of the bottle and made several holes at the bottom, she fills the bottle with a mixture of peat with earth and sand and plants the bulb to a depth of 15 cm, adding some sand under its bottom. Then N. Rubinina places the bottles in a cool place (+10 °C), maintains soil moisture with periodic watering, and in May, when the danger of frost has passed, she transplants them into open ground. Just before planting, she cuts off the bottom of the bottle, pushes the plant with a clod of earth into a pre-prepared planting hole and sprinkles it with earth.

The depth of planting lilies depends not only on the size of the bulbs and the composition of the soil, but also on the characteristics of rooting of different types of lilies: lilies with “real” roots are planted at a depth of 12-15 cm, and stem-root ones require a deeper planting - at least 25 cm. planting also affects the height of plants of different varieties and groups.

Planting depth of lily bulbs

Before planting the bulbs, it is recommended to pour coarse sand on the bottom of the hole, then distribute the bulbs on it, straighten the roots and cover the bulbs with sand, and then with earth. It is necessary to water the area with planted lilies well so that they take root faster. Plantings of Eastern Hybrids, Asian Hybrids and LA Hybrids are mulched with peat or sawdust with a layer of 5 cm. Since these mulching materials increase the acidity of the soil, they are not used as mulch when growing white lilies, Martagon and Tubular Hybrids. These lilies are mulched with leaf humus with the addition of ash.

Care: comes down to watering, which begins to be carried out in the spring and is necessarily carried out in hot, dry weather, sometimes combined with liquid top dressing. Moderate humidity is necessary for lilies throughout the growing season, but in the first half of summer during the period of active development and after flowering during the accumulation period nutrients during the winter, the need for water increases sharply. Water lilies under the root and only in the morning or afternoon. They loosen the soil around the lilies very carefully, and mulching is used to retain moisture in the soil. different materials including cut grass.

Photo EDSR.

The first top dressing is carried out in the spring, in the snow, before the shoots appear. It is recommended to apply complex fertilizer at the rate of 30 g/m 2 . The same top dressing is carried out again during the budding period. After flowering, for better ripening of the bulbs, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers are applied under the lilies: 30 g of potassium sulfate and 10 g of superphosphate per 1 m 2. Many flower growers use wood ash when growing lilies, not only when preparing the soil before planting the bulbs, but also during the season: some carry out top dressing with an extract from the ashes (100 g per 10 liters of water), others simply sprinkle the soil with ashes.

In the first year after planting, when the plants are still weak and not strong enough, experts advise partially or completely removing the buds so that the lilies can prepare for full bloom next year. During flowering, if necessary, tall stems can be tied to a support. Faded flowers from the peduncles should be removed, and the peduncles themselves should be cut off at the end of the season.

Some lilies are demanding heightened attention growers throughout the season. First of all, these are Eastern Hybrids. In nature, the original species of Eastern Hybrids grow in conditions of dry autumn, not very wet winter, but abundant moisture in spring and summer. Therefore, when growing outdoors in more severe climatic conditions, one should take into account some of the subtleties of their agricultural technology regarding soil moisture. Experts consider it very important to cover the landings of Eastern Hybrids with a film during the period of prolonged rains in September-October. The film is removed only in dry weather. This simple technique provides Eastern Hybrids wintering in the dried soil they need.

With the approach of cold weather, lilies are prepared for winter, since not all of them are equally winter hardy. The most winter-hardy Asian Hybrids and LA Hybrids. Snow-white lily, Tubular and Eastern Hybrids are less winter-hardy, and snow-white lily is much more picky: it is grown in Russia only in the southern and middle strip of the European part. To prevent freezing, lilies are insulated for the winter: they are mulched with a layer of humus up to 7 cm or dry fallen leaves up to 20 cm, after cutting the stems of plants. The snow-white lily on top of the mulch layer is additionally covered with spruce branches, and the capricious Eastern Hybrids are covered with plastic wrap to avoid waterlogging during the thaw period.

In early spring, spruce branches, leaves and film are removed. Do this very carefully so as not to damage the young sprouts. Lily sprouts are protected from spring frosts with straw or hay.

Diseases and pests: more than 10 types of pests have been recorded on lilies: lily fly, aphids - lily and greenhouse, thrips, lilac scoop, onion leaf beetle, onion hoverfly, onion root mite, click beetles, stem and gall nematodes, etc. Rots are most often involved in diseases. .

Reproduction: seeds, dividing bulb nests, baby bulbs, bulb scales, bulbs, stem cuttings, and some even leafy cuttings.

The easiest way, but not the fastest - propagation by seeds. In this case, a large amount of healthy planting material adapted to local conditions is obtained. Seeds of different species are characterized by two types of germination: aboveground - the cotyledons come to the surface of the soil, and underground - the formation of the bulb comes directly from the seed underground. Seeds with above-ground type of germination are sown in February - March, with underground - after harvest. Crops are kept in winter at a temperature of -1-2 "C. Thick shoots dive, trying not to damage root system. Watering should be done carefully so as not to cause lodging of seedlings. In April, boxes are taken out to greenhouses, at the end of May - June, young plants are planted on ridges. At seed propagation only some species of lilies, as well as some specially developed American varieties (strains), retain their species qualities unchanged. Other hybrid varieties give a large split. .

It is possible to obtain offspring that retains all the features of the mother plant only through vegetative propagation. The simplest way is division of overgrown nests. It is based on the fact that an adult mother bulb is able to separate daughter bulbs from itself as a result of laying and awakening renewal buds - new growth points. Growing, the daughter bulbs form an independent root system and their own growth point, from which a new stem appears. This forms a nest of bulbs that can be divided. N. Petrenko from the Pavlovsk experimental station of VIR advises nest division and transplantation 3-4 years after planting lilies, when 4-6 bulbs are formed in the nest. best term for this - early autumn, but you can replant the bulbs in early spring, before the appearance or at the very beginning of the appearance of sprouts.

Photo by Elena Bayrasheva

Some lilies develop in leaf axils air bulbs - bulbs, which are also good stuff for reproduction. Bulbous lilies include lilies that form air bulbs: Lily countless, Lily red, Lily Sargent, Lily tiger and their hybrids. The efficiency of reproduction by buds, the number and size of bulbs depend on varietal features, age of plants, abundance of flowering, climatic conditions cultivation and agricultural technology. So, among the lilies bred by M.F. Kireeva with co-authors at the Institute of Horticulture. I.V. Michurin (Michurinsk) varieties "Aelita", "Kalinka", "Pink Haze" form many large bulbs, and "Sea Foam", "Autumn Song", "Polyushko", "Polyanka" - a small number of small ones. Young plants produce more buds than old ones; proper agricultural technology helps to increase their size and increase the number. raw summer also favors the formation of bulbs, and some varieties form them only if the weather is wet for a long time.

It is possible to provoke the appearance of buds in some non-bulbous varieties, as well as to increase their size and number in bulbous ones, using decapitation (removal of buds). The maximum effect is achieved if the buds are removed at the beginning of their formation. Later decapitation (in the phase of a colored bud or at the beginning of blooming) affects the formation of bulbs to a lesser extent or does not affect at all.

Buds are usually formed at the end of flowering, and soon their formation ends, and they crumble to the ground. N. Petrenko considers this moment the best for collecting and sowing bulbs. In a number of species of lilies, for example, in Lily white, the formation of air bulbs can be caused artificially by removing buds that have not yet blossomed. In the time remaining until autumn, air bulbs will have time to form in the axils of the leaves. They are harvested as they mature. Non-bulbous lilies include lily plants that form air bulbs in response to pinching: Snow-white lily. Dutch lily. Dahurian Lily. Leuchtlin Lily, Spotted Lily, Terracotta Lily, Chalcedonian Lily. F. McMillan Brose advises planting bulbs in flower pots. The pots are pre-filled to the brim with substrate and compacted slightly, about 1 cm below the rim of the pot. Bulbs, slightly pressing, are planted on the surface of the substrate with an interval of 2-3 cm. Sprinkle sand on top flush with the edges of the pot and put a label. The pot is transferred to a cold greenhouse until next autumn, at least for a year. Then the plants are transplanted into open ground. N. Petrenko recommends planting them in open ground immediately after collecting the bulbs. In the prepared loose nutrient soil, grooves are made 2-3 cm deep and bulbs are planted in them with a distance between rows of 20-25 cm, and in a row - 5-6 cm. With a long warm autumn, seedlings may also appear in the year of sowing. In the third year, the plants bloom and form large enough bulbs that can be planted in a permanent place.

Reproduction by bulbs on underground shoots. In some bulbous plants, numerous bulblets can form on underground shoots. The formation of such bulbs can be stimulated artificially. Flowering stems separated from plants are buried in the ground, as a result of which bulbs appear in the axils of the leaves. F. McMillan Brose advises to try to put into practice this method of reproduction of lilies. To do this, they dig a groove about 15 cm deep: its narrow end should gradually fade away. All flowers and buds are removed from the stem and it is torn off the bulb, which remains in the ground. Then it is laid in an inclined groove so that the top of the stem protrudes slightly, by 1/3, onto the surface of the soil. For preventive purposes, the stem is treated with a fungicide, after which it is covered with sand or a light soil mixture and a label is installed. By autumn, axillary bulbs will form at the bottom of the stem. They can either be left in place or separated and transplanted into the soil to a depth of two bulb diameters. This method vegetative propagation pretty simple. The only difficulty is related to the possibility of rotting the stem even before the bulbs appear on it. Among the lilies that form bulbs under the ground: Long-flowered Lily, Golden Lily, Canadian Lily, Beautiful Lily. Lily red, Lily leopard, Lily tiger.

Photo EDSR.

Many varieties and species reproduce well bulbous scales. This method makes it possible to obtain up to 20-50 new plants from one bulb, but since it requires special care and attention, it is not widely used. G. K. Tavlinova in the book “Home gardening” notes that lily scales are harvested in spring, summer and autumn. The bulb is dug up and the scales are carefully separated from it. Then, in pre-prepared boxes with a nutrient soil mixture, the scales are buried by 2/3 of the height and sprinkled with sand on top. When small onions develop on them, the scales are separated, and the onions are grown.

F. McMillan Brouse, in his book Plant Propagation, writes that lily propagation by this method is best done in the autumn before planting and using fresh bulbs that are on sale at this time. Taking a fresh, swollen onion, they break out the scales from it as close as possible to the bottom. To separate the scales from slightly wilted bulbs, it is better to use sharp knife. If some types of lilies do not tolerate digging and transplanting, then in this case they dig a groove around the bulb sitting in the ground, separate the required number of scales and again everyone falls asleep. You can plant bulbs for propagation in pots and put in the basement, and bring them into the room in autumn or winter. From each bulb, as a rule, only a few outer scales are taken. There may be pathogens on the scales fungal diseases. To destroy them, F. McMillan Brose advises placing the scales in a plastic bag with a powder of some fungicide. In extreme cases, you can use a mixture of powder charcoal with a small amount of potassium permanganate. Shake the bag vigorously until all scales are covered. thin layer fungicide.

G. K. Tavlinova recommends a different processing of scales. She believes that it is better to wash them in a solution of potassium permanganate color pink and then dry. Next, one volume of scales is mixed with four volumes of some loose and porous substrate in which they can develop with good moisture and aeration. For this purpose, various materials are used, for example, fine expanded clay or a mixture of equal parts of wet peat and coarse sand, provided that they are sterilized, or wet perlite powder with the addition of 20-30 g of charcoal powder. The mixture is poured into a plastic bag, a label is also placed there; the bag is inflated and tied. Store it in a dark, well-ventilated place at a temperature of +21°C.

Germination time depends on temperature conditions and varietal characteristics. This period usually lasts 6 - 8 weeks. After this period, small onions develop at the base of the scales. As soon as these adnexal bulbs appear, the scales are removed from the bag and planted vertically in pots or boxes filled with a mixture of turf and leaf soil, humus and sand. Scales are planted so that their tips protrude slightly on the surface, sprinkled with sand on top. Then they put labels and carry out weak watering. The pot is placed in a warm, well-lit place. In early spring, children form leaves above the soil surface; plants harden off in summer. At the end of the growing season, when the leaves die off, young bulbs are taken out of the ground, divided and seated for growing.

A significant increase in the multiplication factor (by more than 50%) allows the treatment of separated scales with growth regulators, for example, succinic acid (100 mg/l) or a-naphthylacetic acid (2V mg/l). The material is placed in the solution for 6 hours at a temperature of 20-22°. Treatment with succinic acid, in addition, helps to increase the size of the resulting young bulbs, which further accelerates the development of plants.