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Drying of the clay area. Do-it-yourself site drainage on clay soils

Water is the source of life and comfort. But sometimes it turns into a natural disaster, bringing catastrophic consequences. That is why, when arranging a land plot for building a house, it is necessary to take care of a reliable drainage system. After all, flooding with groundwater and melt water is a real tragedy for any home owner. Yes, and rain and snow can contribute to the waterlogging of the earth and thereby create a lot of problems for the owners of private housing related to their safety and comfort.

Areas with a clay structure are especially affected by excess moisture. And the only salvation for them is the installation of a full-fledged drainage system, which, fortunately, can be easily done with your own hands.

When starting to create a drainage system with your own hands, you do not need to rush to buy materials and dig trenches. Initially, you need to determine the type of soil and make hydrodynamic calculations. It is the composition of the soil that will determine the future design of the drainage system. For example, everyone knows that it is much easier to build a house on black earth or sandy soil, since this type of soil absorbs and removes moisture very quickly. But the owners of areas with clay soil will have to make a lot of effort to drain it. Clay can retain moisture for a very long time, and this property of it carries a great danger to both all buildings located in this area and plants growing around.

Wet clay can not only cause discomfort to the inhabitants of this area, but also cause significant damage to all structures and outbuildings. Wet clay soil is especially dangerous in winter. Freezing to the very depths, it can destroy the foundation of a house, destroy garden trees, and even disrupt the water supply system. And then puddles, sticky mud and slush will seem like a minor nuisance compared to more serious problems.

Suffer from clay soil and plants located on the site. During prolonged rains, such soil immediately turns into a swamp. And after drying, it becomes hard and does not lend itself to loosening. A continuous crust forms on its surface, which completely disrupts air exchange in the soil. As a result, all trees, flowers and other plants, without getting enough oxygen, stop growing and begin to die.

How to find out the type of soil yourself

As a rule, not all land owners are soil scientists. Yes, and starting building a house with your own hands, it is hardly possible to quickly find the right specialist, especially in a remote area. Also, the cost of such a service is not always adequate. You can check the type of soil yourself, especially since this procedure does not require special knowledge and complex devices. You just need to dig a hole with your own hands half a meter deep and pour water into it. If the soil absorbs moisture well, then the water should leave in a day. And if the pit does not empty even in two days, then this means that the soil here is clayey. Therefore, drainage of this area is mandatory.

Do-it-yourself site drainage

In order to properly drain the site on clay soils, you must first determine the future type of drainage system. The design of such a system will depend on the following factors:

  • the size of the area of ​​the drained area;
  • relief features: the presence of lowlands and hills;
  • average monthly rainfall in the area;
  • proximity to a natural reservoir;
  • the amount of ground and melt water;
  • financial opportunities.

Depending on which factor will prevail and the optimal drainage system is selected. It can be done in two ways: deep and superficial.

Which drainage method is best for clay soils

If the site is sloping, and there is practically no groundwater on it, then you can create surface drainage. It comes in two types: linear and point. In the first case, shallow trenches are created, through which water will subsequently drain into collection trays. They, in turn, are inclined to the main water intake or to the storm sewer well. All this design for safety and aesthetics is covered with special gratings. The point drainage function is performed by a system consisting of downpipes, from where water flows into water collectors and storm water inlets connected to a common drainage system.

The second method is more complicated and costly, but you can also do it yourself. On the site, trenches are dug up to a depth of 1 meter and a width of up to 0.5 meters. This system works much more efficiently than a drainage system created by surface drainage. Dug trenches encircle the entire site and the house along the entire perimeter. Geotextiles are laid out at the bottom of such ditches, and perforated drainage pipes are installed on top of it, which are then covered with rubble.

The created structure is overlapped with protruding geotextiles, the ends of which are firmly and securely fixed. All this at the end is covered with earth and leveled.

Combined drainage on clay soil

Given the complex structure of clay soils, experts recommend using two drainage methods simultaneously: deep and surface. Such a system will work much better, since surface drainage will quickly remove meltwater and precipitation from the site, thereby preventing them from penetrating into the ground. Well, the deep system will deal with groundwater, directing it through pipes to a designated place.

Deep drainage of a site on clay soils cannot be created in a place where a car will drive and park. The soil covering the trench will quickly compact. This fact will lead to the deformation of the drainage pipes, making them completely useless.

Design stage of the drainage system

Do-it-yourself site drainage on clay soils should begin with design. But if the area of ​​the territory is not very large, then it is quite possible to do without complex technical calculations. The process of creating a drainage scheme consists of several stages:

  • first, it is necessary to make a plan of the site on an acceptable scale, where all household buildings, roads and trees should be marked;
  • on the plan it is necessary to mark all the highest and lowest points of the relief;
  • now it is possible to draw lines on the diagram along which future drainage trenches will go;
  • it is imperative to highlight the main drainage system, which originates at the highest point and ends at the lowest;
  • it is also necessary to design all additional branches coming from the main conduit;

When drawing up a project, it is imperative to take into account important technical points. So, for example, on clay soil, the distance between the drainage trenches should not be less or more than 10 meters. When drawing up a plan, one must also take into account that the diameter of the main conduit will be the largest, and the diameter of additional main pipes will be almost half as large.

When drawing up a project, it is very important to determine immediately where excess water will be discharged? There are several ways to solve this problem. It can be an ordinary ditch by the road, going to the nearest body of water. You can also make a decorative lake or swamp on the site in the style of landscape design. It can also be an ordinary underground water intake, but here you can no longer do without an electric pump.

A well-designed and high-quality do-it-yourself drainage system will last a long time without additional repairs and modifications. But most importantly, it will provide optimal drainage of clay soil and save the owner of the house from unnecessary troubles, expenses and worries.

If you are faced with the problem of high levels of humidity on the land, then it is possible that you need to drain it, which you can handle on your own.

This should not be neglected, because such a phenomenon can lead to unpleasant consequences.

Such circumstances develop if the site is located in a lowland or at a high level of groundwater adjacency.

What is drainage and what are its functions

There is a certain system that combines trenches and pipes, which are located around the perimeter of a certain area of ​​the land. It's called drainage. Draining the soil by installing system elements will solve many problems associated with water drainage. For example:

  • your plants will not sink in the mud, and the harvest will be much better;
  • paths and paths will finally cease to be associated with swamps.

In a word, you will have the opportunity to enjoy your stay outside the city.

Remember, the correct drainage device is the key to the safety of the foundation of summer cottages, which is ensured by the safety of building materials. In what cases is such a system really needed? When the soil is washed out, it swells or swamps, and cellars and cellars are flooded from time to time.

Types of drainage systems and their features

In order to properly organize the removal of excess moisture from the land, you need to clearly understand what is the difference between its types, and what features each of them has.

So, drainage can be surface type or deep. You can deal with the first option on your own, because the work is relatively not difficult. As for the deep type of construction, you need to think about it at the stage of building a house.

Site surface drainage can be one of two types:

  • linear - special trays are laid directly on the surface, which are slightly inclined to the water intake or the main storm sewer well. For security purposes, they are closed with decorative gratings. Sand traps are often installed in garden plots, which makes them even more efficient. Thus, stones, debris and sand do not enter the wastewater, respectively, the system is not so heavily clogged. The main condition for the full removal of excess water from the soil is the deep occurrence of groundwater;

  • point - the function of drainage in this case is performed by a system of water collectors or storm water inlets. Pipes are laid underground, through which water flows into the general drainage, and then into the water intake. Such devices are installed under drainpipes on the street or, if it is a land plot, then at its lowest level.

Deep drainage regulates the water balance through perforated pipes. They are laid directly under the ground and absorb excess moisture.

Do-it-yourself site drainage on clay soils

I would like to repeat that the surface water drainage system allows you to get rid of its excess, which flows down from the roofs, accumulates near the paths and terraces. Before you do the drainage of the site with your own hands on clay soils , you need to decide on its type (point or linear). The difference is that in the first case, water is diverted from specific areas of a small area, and the second is appropriate if it is necessary to prevent the fertile soil layer from being washed away.

So, the arrangement of surface-type drainage begins with drawing up a diagram of what happens, taking into account the places where water stagnates. The system consists of a main trench and auxiliary ditches where liquid from puddles will be discharged. Drains from downpipes are directed to the main trenches. By the way, the pit must be dug under a certain slope, which will ensure the gravity direction of the water towards the water intake. Do-it-yourself drainage of a site on clay soils implies providing a slope of 0.002.

After trenches 0.5 m wide and approximately 0.7 m deep have been dug, the walls should be formed at an angle of 30 degrees. The water inlet must be located below the level of the entire system. Thus, it will be possible to ensure the interception and removal of excess moisture, and this will also reduce the level of groundwater. Considering that do-it-yourself drainage on the site in this way is not entirely aesthetically pleasing, special trays are now provided that are laid in trenches, after which they are covered with a lattice-type lid.

What should happen

Installation of a deep site drainage system

Depth of pipes in the ground

For the arrangement, it is necessary to use perforated pipes and roll materials. According to the standard scheme, water must first enter the collecting drains, and then into the main drains. And then into the well, and only after that it is dumped into the water intake. Their role can be played by ditches along roads, rivers, streams, ravines or storm sewer systems. Be sure to equip inspection holes.

So that the installation of the water drainage system is not done in vain, it is necessary to correctly calculate the depth of the pipes, which is very difficult to do without the help of surveyors or hydrogeologists. These specialists will make all the necessary measurements to determine where the groundwater is located.

Drainage scheme for a site with a deep system

In order for the drainage of the site with your own hands to perform all its functions, it is important to use pipes specially designed for this. Their peculiarity lies in the fact that on the surface there is a network of holes 1.5-5 mm in diameter. If earlier pipes made of ceramics or a mixture of asbestos and cement were used for these purposes, now there are polymer pipes designed specifically for hydromelioration, their diameter ranges from 50-200 mm. Some models are even equipped with a filter shell.

Interested in how to properly drain the site? It all starts with digging trenches 40 cm wide, the depth depends on where the groundwater flows.

Then a layer of sand and crushed stone is poured into the finished channels, which acts as a pillow, on top of which the necessary pipes are laid, they must also be covered with a mixture of crushed stone and sand.

The trench should be filled with half of its height, the free space is filled with loam, the final stage of installation is the embankment of the upper, fertile layer of the earth.

In the deep system, as well as in the surface, wells must be constructed. They are designed to control the drainage process and clean clogged hollow objects of round cross section. For this, reinforced concrete rings or piece waterproof products can be used, to some extent it depends on the installation depth of the system.

Mistakes that should not be made when installing a cleaning system at their summer cottage

The most common mistake that is made when trying to design the drainage of a site with your own hands is neglecting the design stage. The fact is that, first of all, it is necessary to understand the current situation in detail, namely: to analyze the land plot and determine the nature of groundwater. Without taking into account some details, you can come to the conclusion that they will enter the basement of your house, negatively affecting the foundation.

Not always nature arranges everything the way we would like. Sometimes these can be significant problems, one of which is the flooding of the land on the plot after snow melts, heavy rain, or it may be a geological feature of the area. There can be only one solution here - do-it-yourself drainage of the site, taking into account clay soils.

This is a time-consuming matter, but skillfully made calculations of such a system, taking into account all the features, will make it as efficient as possible and at minimal cost.

First you need to determine the type of soil on the site: if its penetration is high, then drainage may not be required. Everything is different with clay soil. It almost does not let moisture through, and therefore dries for a very long time. The discomfort is obvious - the site is like a swamp: it is impossible to walk, there is dirt everywhere, and there is nothing to think about gardening.

There are two types of drainage according to the device method: superficial and in-depth.

How to drain in a clay area

1. Surface drainage

In this case, it will be necessary to make shallow trenches, after which it will be necessary to install special trays in them and cover them with a net. At first glance, everything is simple. But here you need to know some design nuances. For a small area, you can do without serious calculations: it is enough to imagine the system in general terms. However, for large areas, you will need a site plan on a scale, with the designation of all buildings and details.

We use a natural slope (possibly using a level) and begin to put on paper a plan for the future system:

The main drainage system is the main canal. Its direction is through the entire area from the highest mark down to the water collection point. On a flat area, this direction is chosen arbitrarily.

Then we design additional gutters and bring them all down to the main canal (the pattern resembles a Christmas tree). We make the distance between each drain about 10 m.

It is possible to make a combined system with the arrangement of fast intermediate catchment points at the ends of each "branch" and at the beginning of the main canal.

It will be more difficult to decide where the water will eventually go. As an example, this could be:

  • a ditch on the side of the adjacent road;
  • water intake underground well with a pump;
  • artificial decorative swamp on the site;
  • water tank for household needs.

The drainage device on the site will also come in handy in the future management of the dacha economy: it is very good to use settled water for watering plants during dry periods.

2. Deep drainage

Here you need to dig trenches with a depth of 1-1.3 m and a width of up to 0.4 m. For the arrangement, you will need the following materials:

  • special pipes (drains) and trays;
  • geotextile;
  • crushed stone;
  • connecting elements.

And the tool:

  • shovels (bayonet, shovel);
  • wheelbarrows for the removal of soil and crushed stone;
  • level for determining the level;
  • saw for cutting pipes.

The scheme of buried drainage is the same as that of the surface. The only difference is that the drainage channels are buried and the site is made even.

After the ditches are covered with rubble, the geofabric, trays and pipes are laid, there is no need to rush to cover the entire structure with earth. Drainage needs to be tested. You need to wait for a shower or do it artificially with a pump, hose and sufficient water pressure. If the flows go through the entire system from start to finish properly, then the test can be considered passed. If water stagnates in any places, then the system needs to be finalized with additional channels.

Additional ditches adjacent to the main canal should be made in parallel at a distance of 4-6 m from each other. The denser the soil, the shorter the interval. From the lower end of the main canal, a trench is dug perpendicularly to drain water to other additional points.

The slope in the in-depth system is made at least 1 cm deep per 1 m of length. Perhaps more, it will depend on the totality of additional stacks: the more there are, the greater the angle of inclination is needed for the lower channel in order for the drainage to be more intense. More precisely, the slope can be controlled using the building level.

Features of the clay area

Clay soils are heavy, dry out slowly, and are quite difficult to process. They don't have enough air. They are colder than other soils, plant growth is difficult on them. After precipitation, a crust forms. In soils that are too heavy, plant roots cannot penetrate deeply. But not everything is so sad, there is a positive side: such soils are much richer than sandy ones.

All features of drainage on such soils are interpreted, first of all, by the rational use of water. In order to successfully engage in crop production on a site located on loamy soils, some additions are needed.

Before arranging the drainage, the soil must be loosened and crushed stone, crushed brick, sand or fine gravel should be added to it. Lay the top layer with black soil. After sanding, the soil becomes suitable for processing. Now there will be no excess moisture at the level of plant roots. And the water that has reached deep into the impenetrable clay will go into the drainage channels.

Excess water in the clay area happens not only in spring floods, but also becomes relevant in summer thunderstorms. Even with a little rain, puddles form on clay soil. Therefore, when making drainage in a summer cottage, it is necessary to prepare a storm sewer with volumetric wells and collectors in advance so that water does not accumulate, but passes freely even with a strong flow.

What type of drainage is best

Given the complexity of arranging in-depth drainage, it is cheaper to make surface drainage. However, hidden drains make the landscape of the site not only more plausible, but also more practical.

  • If you have to travel around the site with any kind of transport, then collisions with open channels will lead to the fact that over time they will need to be reworked.
  • Flat areas facilitate vegetable growing and gardening.
  • Hidden drains will make it possible to build additional buildings in the future.

If such intentions are not expected in the future, then open drainage will not become a hindrance, and it can be arranged in the original style of landscape design. The practical side is also obvious: such a system is easier to clean.

As you can see, both types of drainage are good in their own way. Preferences will depend on individual needs, aesthetic considerations and available funds.

The drainage system, if it is designed correctly and built with high quality, will regularly serve for many decades without any adjustments and repairs, and will ensure complete comfort of life in a country house. For more information on how to make the drainage of the site with your own hands, we recommend watching the video.


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Features of clay soils

After buying a piece of land, it is recommended to determine the type of its soil. If there are black earth or sandy soils in this territory, then this greatly facilitates the task of avid gardeners and builders involved in the construction of a new house. Well, if the soil in the area is clayey? In this case, the owner will face a lot of problems. And they will begin with the discomfort that sticky dirt delivers, and end with serious economic damage. So, first of all, the lawn located near the house will suffer. Clay, when dried, will turn into a hard crust and will be difficult to loosen. This will lead to the fact that the grass planted on the lawn will begin to wither and will certainly dry out. Well, if there comes a period of prolonged downpours, then the lawn will turn into a kind of swamp. This will lead to rotting of the root system of the plants on it.

“> A similar problem is even more aggravated if groundwater passes near the surface of such soil. In this case, the clay retains its moisture almost constantly, drying out only on the hottest days of summer. Wet soil carries a danger in the winter. After all, it leads to freezing of the soil to a great depth, which contributes to the destruction of wet foundations and the destruction of berries and orchards. Anyone who wants to protect their site from such problems should do the drainage of the site with their own hands on clay soils.

Preparatory work

How should I start drainage of the site with my own hands on clay soils? First of all, you need to carefully examine the area. It is important to pay special attention to some important points:

  • the quality and structure of the soil, that is, the presence and depth of clay layers;
  • the presence of a source that increases the degree of moisture, which can be either groundwater or frequent precipitation;
  • selection of a suitable type of drainage system for the existing conditions or the adoption of comprehensive measures;
  • preparation of a drainage scheme or plan, which reflects the order of the necessary trenches and wells (the scheme should indicate such parameters as the dimensions of all elements of the system, the depth of soil drainage, as well as the relative slope of this structure).

How to determine the quality and structure of the soil? To do this, it is enough to use a permeability test. It is very simple, and its implementation will not cause any special difficulties. It will only be necessary to dig a hole, small in diameter, approximately 60 cm deep, and then fill it with water. The result of this test can be obtained only after a day. If during this time the water is completely absorbed into the soil, then there are no problems with its discharge on the site. On it, you can safely engage in economic activities and build a house without arranging a drainage system. But if the water in the pit lingered at least partially, then in this case a system for removing moisture must be built without fail.


After the stage of preliminary work is completed, it is necessary to proceed with the specific actions that are necessary in order to do the drainage of the site with your own hands on clay soils. However, before implementing the plan, one should carefully study the existing types of such systems. This will allow you to complete the project with maximum efficiency.

Types of water drainage systems

How to properly drain on a site with clay soil? To do this, you need to decide on its type. Such drainage systems are classified into surface, deep and reservoir. Sometimes an integrated method is used to improve the efficiency of water drainage from clay areas. It involves the simultaneous use of several drainage schemes at once. Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Surface drainage

Such a water drainage scheme involves the implementation of only small penetrations into the ground. Surface drainage of the site, as a rule, is used in areas with a slight natural slope. From an extensive network of such shallow channels, water is removed almost by gravity.


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How to make drainage on the site, if it is enough to perform a surface scheme? In such cases, trenches are laid along walking paths, around lawns, along the perimeter of the foundations of buildings, near recreational areas, and in other similar places.

The surface drainage scheme of a site on clay soils is, in some cases, an extensive network of drainage trays. At the same time, moisture is removed through plastic or concrete gutters and collected in special wells designed for this purpose. Further, water can either be used for economic purposes, or diverted to a disposal site.

Surface or open site drainage is the cheapest in the device.

deep systems

How to drain a site on clay soil if a large amount of water needs to be drained? In such cases, the construction of a deep system is necessary. This is a network of trenches located at a considerable distance from the soil surface, in which there are outlet pipes that direct moisture to sewage wells.

The deep drainage of the site consists of several main channels. They are dug to a depth of 1.2 m. The width of such channels is 0.5 m. They are directed towards the water collector. However, this is far from a complete description of the scheme of deep drainage of a clayey area. To the main canals, a whole network of drainage trays that are auxiliary in their purpose is needed. They can be replaced with small trenches. Such a scheme will allow collecting sludge water from the entire territory.


“> When arranging deep drainage, it is necessary to adhere to one important parameter. This is the allowable distance that is important to maintain between elements called drains. Under normal conditions, such a parameter should not exceed eleven meters. But the exact value of the allowable distance is chosen depending on the depth of the trenches and the quality of the soil.

Compared to surface drainage, deep drainage is a more expensive structure. Indeed, to create it, you will need to use special pipes and geotextile fabrics.

Reservoir systems

This type of drainage is a kind of deep drainage. All elements of the reservoir system are located at a considerable distance from the soil surface.

Such drainage is used if it is necessary to drain water that constantly accumulates around the foundation of the house or other structures located on the site.

How is reservoir drainage performed? For its construction, work is underway to equip an extensive network of ditches located below the level of the heel of the foundation along its base. A layer of rubble is laid out at the bottom of the ditches. It is through them that water is diverted into special perforated pipe channels located along the perimeter of the building. As you can see, such a scheme is quite complex. That is why its dimensions exceed the dimensions of the foundation itself.

Instruments

What is needed in order to proceed with the direct implementation of the plan to remove moisture from the site?

To do this, you will need the following working tools:

  • shovels for digging trenches;
  • building level, which will be needed when forming the required angle of inclination;
  • a manual device (wheelbarrow) on which materials will be delivered to the place of work and the earth will be taken out;
  • drilling and cutting tools necessary for processing and cutting plastic pipes;
  • twine for marking the system.

Construction material

To equip a drainage system in a clay area, you will need:

  • textile fabric, which will be used to filter the water entering the drainage system;
  • a certain amount of sand and gravel intended for the pillow device;
  • concrete or plastic channels that will ensure the arrangement of surface drainage;
  • a set of plastic perforated pipes, the diameter of which is in the range from 100 to 110 mm, necessary for deep drainage;
  • elements of finished catchment wells or their components;
  • a set that includes connecting elements for pipes.

Organization of the surface system

Open drainage is tray or backfill. But in both cases, such installation is carried out after marking the site for drainage and installation in its lowest part of the water intake well. Further along the perimeter of the working platform, trenches should be dug. Their slope should be approximately thirty degrees and be directed towards the water intake. The drainage depth on the site is 50 cm. The trenches are dug out with a width of 0.5 to 0.6 m and lead to a common ditch, which goes directly to the catchment area.

Backfill drainage

With this type of drainage, fine sand is used after pre-done work. It is laid out on the bottom of the trenches with a layer of 10 cm and carefully rammed. After that, the ditches are laid with geotextiles and filled with 2/3 large gravel and 1/3 fine. From above, the system is closed with sod.

Tray drainage

When it is arranged, fine gravel is laid out at the bottom of the dug trenches with a ten-centimeter layer. Further, this material is poured with cement and pre-prepared plastic or concrete trays are immediately installed, at the end of which sand traps are fixed.

Such a system is closed with decorative high-strength gratings.

Deep drainage system

If it is necessary to perform drainage of a site with a high level of groundwater, then the algorithm for its organization will consist of the following actions:

  1. First of all, it is necessary to mark the site and choose the most suitable place for the water intake. And only after that, ditches are dug on the working site, the depth of which is from 100 to 120 cm, and the width is 0.5 m. Drainage is performed on a site with a slope of 30 degrees.
  2. Fall asleep in trenches, and then compact a layer of sand, the thickness of which is 10 cm.
  3. Lay pre-prepared geotextiles in ditches so that the material closes their walls and goes out onto the sides.
  4. Pour a 15-cm layer of fine gravel on the geofabric.
  5. Lay plastic pipes on top of the rubble. They should be perforated down. Further, the pipes are connected by fittings and couplings. Revision wells should be located at the turns of the received drainage mains. They are installed above the ground.
  6. After that, the pipes are covered with crushed stone of a fine fraction and closed with the free edges of the geotextile.
  7. Further, the trenches are closed with sand and soil.
  8. Drainage pipes should be directed to the water intake. Its function can be performed by any plastic container or a do-it-yourself well dug, fixed with reinforced concrete rings.

Optional equipment

For more efficient operation of the drainage system, special pumps, manholes and heating cables can be installed. What is their purpose?

So, the drainage of a site with a high level of groundwater will greatly facilitate a pump specially installed for this purpose. After all, if the water collection point is below the place of moisture accumulation, its removal will be complicated. Forced water movement will solve the problem.

The need for manholes arises when the drainage system is silted up or clogged with foreign objects.

The use of heating cables will prevent freezing of the drainage system in winter.

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Features of the territory with a predominance of clay soil

Do-it-yourself drainage of a site on clay soils is usually necessary for the reason that such areas are characterized by excessive stagnant water. At the same time, the roots of plants are constantly under the influence of moisture, and the air does not enter there in the required volume. Sooner or later, this becomes the cause of oxygen starvation, while cultivated plants can no longer develop normally and, in the end, die. In particular, this phenomenon applies to lawns, which suffer not only from excess moisture, but also because of a fairly dense turf, because it is not loosened even from time to time and is not subjected to plowing. This leads to the fact that a dense layer located on top prevents the plants from fully saturating with air.

Do-it-yourself site drainage on clay soils should be equipped before you plant a lawn or all kinds of crops. After that, it will be possible to use the site immediately after the winter season comes to an end, which is accompanied by the disappearance of the snow cover.

What parameters of the site must be taken into account when designing

Before the drainage system is equipped, as a rule, a calculation is made and a project of the future system is drawn up. However, if you have to work with a territory whose area is not too large, then it is not at all necessary to make a calculation when designing. At the same time, the main condition is the need to take into account the main parameters of the system for draining water from the territory. Among them, it is necessary to highlight all the data related to drainage, namely: slope, location depth, location according to the plan, step between rows, installation of manholes, as well as the wellhead. The territory of a suburban area is not in all cases flat, for this reason, if there is even a slight slope of the soil surface, then it should certainly be used.

Application of terrain features

Do-it-yourself drainage of the site on clay soils must be equipped taking into account the slope of the soil surface. If we compare an inclined and a flat area, then it should be noted that it will be somewhat easier to work with the first one. Moreover, in this case, when arranging the drainage system, labor costs will be many times reduced. At the same time, it is necessary to carry out work in such a way that indoor and outdoor drainage are successfully combined.

In the latter case, in the process of work, ditches are used that have an open top. Such a system is also called surface. It will be most effective for the outflow of excess water during the warm season, it is at this time that a large amount of precipitation falls, which causes a rise in the level of groundwater. This type of drainage is indispensable in the winter. In a number of latitudes in winter, thaws are quite frequent, which are accompanied by frozen soil, which is not able to absorb water, and it becomes necessary to drain the liquid from the soil surface. In the cases described, it is absolutely necessary to equip the drainage of the site with your own hands, how to do this - you should certainly be interested.

Description of open and closed types of drainage

If you decide to mount an open type system, then you need to use a special tile, it has a slight slope, which will effectively remove excess moisture. Through such a system, liquid from the roofs of houses and paved areas will flow into a closed drainage system, which acts as a leader. Closed drainage will work as follows: the liquid that comes from the surface of the soil will flow through underground utilities, which have a shape and look like pipes. Before starting work, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of clay soil, which has a significant weight and high density. This indicates the need for its loosening before starting work. During the installation of drains, you will need to bypass areas that are intended for vehicles.

Installation of a closed drainage system

If you decide to equip the drainage of the site with your own hands, you should definitely know how to do this. Before starting work, it is imperative to determine which type of water intake will be used in this system. In its role, for example, a natural reservoir can act, quite often an alternative solution is used, which involves the withdrawal of water into an artificially equipped ditch. It must be located close to the road. But it may also happen that there are none, while the task can be solved in several ways, each of them can be implemented independently. There are several options for arranging the outflow of fluid. You can equip the reservoir on your own, making it in the form of a pond. At the same time, you should not be afraid that it will eventually begin to resemble a small wetland. In addition, you can dig a ditch yourself. It must be made deep, and located outside the boundaries of its own site. If you decide to use the latter option, then you must first agree with your neighbors.

Alternative stock option

If you intend to do the drainage of the site with your own hands, you should definitely know how to make the system, otherwise it will not cope with its functions, the plants on the territory will die, and the work will have to be done again. The third option for organizing water flow involves digging oversized wells. Their walls must be made vertical, and after filling, the water must be pumped out using a pump. Such manipulations will have to be done from time to time. For units, the pumping mode can be made automatic.

earthworks

Before you make the drainage of the garden plot with your own hands, you first have to dig trenches. It is necessary to arrange them along the perimeter of the suburban area. At the same time, the trenches will have to be given such a depth and width that they should not be more than 1.2 and 0.4 m. After the ditches are prepared, it is necessary to lay pipes in them that are intended to collect water. These ditches, by the way, have the name of the main ditches. Pre-laid pipes must reach the water intake. In order to fill the main channels, it is preferable to use pipes with a diameter of 110 mm for this. The depth of the main pipelines, when compared with the collecting branches of the system, should be somewhat greater. Must be carried out according to the rules of work, when the drainage of the site is arranged with your own hands, advice and guidance must be read before starting work. This is the only way to achieve the desired result.

Laying pipelines

In the work, it is imperative to follow the rules that are prescribed in the regulatory and technical literature. They regulate the need to remove drainage pipelines from the fence. So, the step between the pipeline and the fence should be 0.5 m or more. It should be noted that the pipeline should also be removed from the blind area of ​​​​the main building, stepping back from it during installation of 1 m. The liquid will initially collect in drainage trenches, only then it will flow into the main channels. A whole network of trenches must be created on the territory, the depth and width of which, respectively, must be equal to 1.2 and 0.35 m.

The drainage of the site must necessarily have a certain slope, the master can easily produce a diagram and a device with his own hands. Thus, the trench network must be equipped with a slope that is 5 cm per meter. The channels should not have a large length. If you apply this rule, then the drainage system will work properly. A less impressive slope is not recommended, this is due to the fact that the fluid flow rate will not be as intense as necessary, this will ultimately cause stagnation in a certain area. If you have to work on the territory of a clay area, then the drains should be located at a distance of 10 m from each other.

Checking the system for operability

The installation of a drainage system on clay soil after trenches have been dug and pipes have been laid in them does not imply instant closure of the elements. Before you have to check the drainage for performance and efficiency.

The trench network must remain open for some time. For testing, heavy rainfall is the most successful option. If such an opportunity does not appear for a long time, then it is simply necessary to let water from the irrigation hose into the trenches. In this case, you should observe how quickly the flow of water will pass through the system. The absence of stagnation in all areas indicates the correct functioning, this is the only way to check the drainage of the site with your own hands, the technology and rules must be known to the master, only then everything will work without stagnation. If there is a need, then even at this stage it is necessary to adjust certain parameters that will increase the flow rate.

Solving system functionality problems

If, when checking the system, it was found that it does not work efficiently enough, then pipes of a larger diameter can be installed, in addition, the slope can be increased. In some cases, masters make a system that is equipped with a denser network. You can close the system if the drainage of the site is working properly, especially how to drain the soil - all this is important to know even before the start of work.

The final stage

You can close the system with geotextiles that can pass water. Instead, it is permissible to use volumetric filters that perform well in the drainage of clay soils. The most practical for drainage work are plastic pipes with a diameter of 63 mm, the surface of which must be corrugated. The connection of pipes must be carried out by means of tees.

The cost of arranging drainage

If you decide to do the drainage of the site with your own hands on clay soils, the price of a professional installation should certainly interest you. This may help you decide whether to carry out the work yourself or entrust the matter to professionals. So, if you decide to turn to specialists, then the cost of a running meter of surface drainage will cost 1,300 rubles. Whereas the same amount of work, but over deep drainage, will cost 2400 rubles.

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Clay is a serious problem for the gardener

Excess moisture in the soil leads to oxygen starvation of plants. The roots do not receive the required amount of oxygen, which inevitably leads to the death of greenery. This problem affects trees, shrubs and lawn grass. Without effective drainage, not a single plant will survive in a clay area, water will destroy everything.

Land with excess moisture is an ideal incubator for all kinds of slugs and snails. And which gardener needs these pests that feed on garden plantings? Plus, waterlogged soil is a direct threat to the foundation of the house. No waterproofing layer will save the base of the building with constant exposure to water.

Clay itself does not allow moisture to pass through, and if the site is also in a lowland, then the drainage system will have to be done without fail. Otherwise, not only the future harvest, but also the owner of the house runs the risk of drowning in the mud.

How to determine clay soil or not

It is possible to accurately assess the characteristics of the soil only after appropriate surveys, which should be carried out by a professional hydrogeologist. A variant is possible when the clay does not protrude to the surface, but lies in a continuous layer at a shallow depth. The soil seems to be good from above, but literally after half a meter a clay layer begins, which does not want to drain moisture further inland.

Approximately it is possible to determine only the degree of permeability of the earth. To do this, it is enough to dig a hole half a meter deep and pour water into it. If after a couple of days the recess turns out to be dry, then the site can do without additional drainage. Otherwise, it will definitely have to do drainage.

Do-it-yourself drainage of a clay area

There are two main ways to make drainage in a clay area:

  1. With the help of a surface drainage system from trays.
  2. Through deep drainage with the installation of perforated drain pipes.

The first option will allow you to divert only melt and rainwater. Only a deep system can handle the moisture that is already in the soil.

Wells, trays and pipes can be made of concrete, asbestos cement or iron. But the most practical material is plastic. From cross-linked polyethylene, it is now possible to purchase the entire set of various elements of the storm sewer system, all that remains is to assemble them together.

Advice! Pipes, storm water inlets, wells and storm gutters are best bought from cross-linked polyethylene. It calmly tolerates frosts and does not crack during frosts.

The choice of type of drainage depends on:

  • the owner's financial capabilities;
  • area and topography of the land plot;
  • estimated precipitation volumes;
  • soil structures at different depths.

In any case, you first need to prepare a project plan for the drainage system with reference to the area and purchase all the necessary building materials.

What will be needed to build a drainage system

To make the drainage of a site with clay soil from the tools you will need:

  1. Shovels for digging pits for wells and trenches for drains.
  2. Garden cart.
  3. Hacksaw or jigsaw for cutting pipes.
  4. Twine-cord for marking.
  5. Construction bubble level

And also stock up in advance:

  • fine gravel with sand;
  • pipes with a diameter of 110 mm with perforation (you can take ordinary sewer pipes and drill holes in them);
  • geotextile material for wrapping perforated pipelines;
  • pipe fittings;
  • gutters, sand traps and storm water inlets (plastic or concrete);
  • well structures of factory assembly.

Surface drainage installation

Open drainage on clay soil is easiest to do. If the groundwater is deep enough, then it will be enough to drain the local area. In terms of labor costs and finances, this option is optimal.

The system of trays collecting and draining water for surface drainage is laid with a slope from the house to the lowest point of the site where the septic tank or infiltrator is equipped. From the septic tank, the clarified liquid is discharged into a roadside ditch, a nearby reservoir or a street storm sewer.

The main thing when planning a drainage system is to use the relief of the site with maximum benefit. If it has a slope, then this is just an ideal case. It will be enough to dig ditches along this slope and lay the trays in them at an angle to the lowest point.

Installation of surface drainage on a clay site is carried out in five stages:

  1. Digging trenches according to the designed scheme up to half a meter deep.
  2. Backfilling at the bottom of the ditches of a sand and gravel cushion with a thickness of 15–20 cm.
  3. Laying trays at a slope of 2-5 degrees to the water intake.
  4. Covering rain gutters from leaves and debris with metal bars.
  5. Installation of an infiltrator with drainage into the soil below a layer of clay or a storage tank with a pump.

After completing all the work, it remains only to check the operability of the storm drain by letting water from the hose into it.

Deep drainage device

The buried drainage system is formed from the main pipeline and perforated pipes connected to it. The main can be made one - in the middle of the site, then the drains are connected to it with a herringbone. Or it is laid along the fence along the border of the estate, and all drainage pipes are connected to this perimeter.

For laying pipelines, trenches 35–40 cm wide and up to one and a half meters deep are needed (depending on the level of groundwater and the freezing point of the soil). At their bottom, a 15-centimeter pillow of sand with crushed stone is made and geotextiles are spread to protect the perforation from clogging.

Then another 10–20 cm of gravel is poured onto the geotextile substrate and drains are laid on it, which are then sprinkled with gravel and covered with geofabric on top. As a result, the perforated drainage pipe should be on all sides in gravel and wrapped around with geotextile.

Important! Perforated pipes without geotextile wrapping on clay lands will quickly clog. Needle-punching geofabric is an obligatory element of deep drainage in a clay area.

When arranging drainage in areas with clay buds, for wrapping pipes, in addition to the usual interlining, you can use bulk shells made of coconut fiber. Drains with them are sold already ready for installation.

Revision and storage wells can be made from:

  • bricks;
  • reinforced concrete;
  • plastic.

If the pipes for the drainage system are plastic, then it is also better to use all wells and a septic tank from a similar material. It is easier to take care of them later and make repairs if necessary.

Video: drainage work in a difficult area

The combination of a deep and surface drainage system is guaranteed to drain even a wetland. Such drainage of clay soils has been proven over the years of practice. Its installation is simple, and as part of the maintenance, seasonal inspections and flushes are sufficient. But the design of the drainage system is best left to an experienced specialist. There are many nuances and without specialized knowledge it is difficult to correctly calculate the depth, slope, diameter of pipes.

If the soils around the house consist of loams and clays, then in spring and after rains the territory of the estate turns into a small swamp. It is necessary to drain it somehow and quickly, otherwise the plants will rot, and the foundation will begin to fall apart. We will figure out how to drain a site on clay soil in order to quickly remove excess water from it.

Excess moisture in the soil leads to oxygen starvation of plants. The roots do not receive the required amount of oxygen, which inevitably leads to the death of greenery. This problem affects trees, shrubs and lawn grass. Without effective drainage, not a single plant will survive in a clay area, water will destroy everything.

Herringbone drainage system - the best option for a small area

Land with excess moisture is an ideal incubator for all kinds of slugs and snails. And which gardener needs these pests that feed on garden plantings? Plus, waterlogged soil is a direct threat to the foundation of the house. No waterproofing layer will save the base of the building with constant exposure to water.

Clay itself does not allow moisture to pass through, and if the site is also in a lowland, then the drainage system will have to be done without fail. Otherwise, not only the future harvest, but also the owner of the house runs the risk of drowning in the mud.

How to determine clay soil or not

It is possible to accurately assess the characteristics of the soil only after appropriate surveys, which should be carried out by a professional hydrogeologist. A variant is possible when the clay does not protrude to the surface, but lies in a continuous layer at a shallow depth. The soil seems to be good from above, but literally after half a meter a clay layer begins, which does not want to drain moisture further inland.

Approximately it is possible to determine only the degree of permeability of the earth. To do this, it is enough to dig a hole half a meter deep and pour water into it. If after a couple of days the recess turns out to be dry, then the site can do without additional drainage. Otherwise, it will definitely have to do drainage.

Do-it-yourself drainage of a clay area

There are two main ways to make drainage in a clay area:

  1. With the help of a surface drainage system from trays.
  2. Through deep drainage with the installation of perforated drain pipes.

The first option will allow you to divert only melt and rainwater. Only a deep system can handle the moisture that is already in the soil.

Drainage scheme for a site with clay soil

Wells, trays and pipes can be made of concrete, asbestos cement or iron. But the most practical material is plastic. From cross-linked polyethylene, it is now possible to purchase the entire set of various elements of the storm sewer system, all that remains is to assemble them together.

Advice! Pipes, storm water inlets, wells and storm gutters are best bought from cross-linked polyethylene. It calmly tolerates frosts and does not crack during frosts.

The choice of type of drainage depends on:

  • the owner's financial capabilities;
  • area and topography of the land plot;
  • estimated precipitation volumes;
  • soil structures at different depths.

In any case, you first need to prepare a project plan for the drainage system with reference to the area and purchase all the necessary building materials.

What will be needed to build a drainage system

To make the drainage of a site with clay soil from the tools you will need:

  1. Shovels for digging pits for wells and trenches for drains.
  2. Garden cart.
  3. Hacksaw or jigsaw for cutting pipes.
  4. Twine-cord for marking.
  5. Construction bubble level

And also stock up in advance:

  • fine gravel with sand;
  • pipes with a diameter of 110 mm with perforation (you can take ordinary sewer pipes and drill holes in them);
  • geotextile material for wrapping perforated pipelines;
  • pipe fittings;
  • gutters, sand traps and storm water inlets (plastic or concrete);
  • well structures of factory assembly.

Surface drainage installation

Open drainage on clay soil is easiest to do. If the groundwater is deep enough, then it will be enough to drain the local area. In terms of labor costs and finances, this option is optimal.

Scheme of surface stormwater drainage from individual elements

The system of trays collecting and draining water for surface drainage is laid with a slope from the house to the lowest point of the site where the septic tank or infiltrator is equipped. From the septic tank, the clarified liquid is discharged into a roadside ditch, a nearby reservoir or a street storm sewer.

The main thing when planning a drainage system is to use the relief of the site with maximum benefit. If it has a slope, then this is just an ideal case. It will be enough to dig ditches along this slope and lay the trays in them at an angle to the lowest point.

Open drainage can be made in the form of landscaped gutters made of stone

Installation of surface drainage on a clay site is carried out in five stages:

  1. Digging trenches according to the designed scheme up to half a meter deep.
  2. Backfilling at the bottom of the ditches of a sand and gravel cushion with a thickness of 15–20 cm.
  3. Laying trays at a slope of 2-5 degrees to the water intake.
  4. Covering rain gutters from leaves and debris with metal bars.
  5. Installation of an infiltrator with drainage into the soil below a layer of clay or a storage tank with a pump.

After completing all the work, it remains only to check the operability of the storm drain by letting water from the hose into it.

Deep drainage device

The buried drainage system is formed from the main pipeline and perforated pipes connected to it. The main can be made one - in the middle of the site, then the drains are connected to it with a herringbone. Or it is laid along the fence along the border of the estate, and all drainage pipes are connected to this perimeter.

For laying pipelines, trenches 35–40 cm wide and up to one and a half meters deep are needed (depending on the level of groundwater and the freezing point of the soil). At their bottom, a 15-centimeter pillow of sand with crushed stone is made and geotextiles are spread to protect the perforation from clogging.

Then another 10–20 cm of gravel is poured onto the geotextile substrate and drains are laid on it, which are then sprinkled with gravel and covered with geofabric on top. As a result, the perforated drainage pipe should be on all sides in gravel and wrapped around with geotextile.

Distance and depth of drains in various soils

Important! Perforated pipes without geotextile wrapping on clay lands will quickly clog. Needle-punching geofabric is an obligatory element of deep drainage in a clay area.

When arranging drainage in areas with clay buds, for wrapping pipes, in addition to the usual interlining, you can use bulk shells made of coconut fiber. Drains with them are sold already ready for installation.

Scheme of laying drainage perforated pipes

Revision and storage wells can be made from:

  • bricks;
  • reinforced concrete;
  • plastic.

If the pipes for the drainage system are plastic, then it is also better to use all wells and a septic tank from a similar material. It is easier to take care of them later and make repairs if necessary.

Video: drainage work in a difficult area

The combination of a deep and surface drainage system is guaranteed to drain even a wetland. Such drainage of clay soils has been proven over the years of practice. Its installation is simple, and as part of the maintenance, seasonal inspections and flushes are sufficient. But the design of the drainage system is best left to an experienced specialist. There are many nuances and without specialized knowledge it is difficult to correctly calculate the depth, slope, diameter of pipes.

Drainage of the site is carried out in order to drain the soil surface from excessive moisture due to the passage of groundwater underground. An excess of moisture in the soil threatens the destruction of residential buildings, an obstacle to the growth of vegetation, and also affects the full operation of the sewer. Therefore, making a drainage system for your estate, located on clay soil, is task number 1 for each owner. And how to do it yourself, we will tell in the article.

Type of drainage system

When deciding to create a site drainage, you should plan the layout of the drainage system itself. The decision is based on the type of soil and its topography. A drainage system is needed where:

    clayey areas of the site: if you do not install the system on the surface of such soil, water will stagnate;

    flat terrain of the site with the presence of ground movements;

    the private area is located on the slope: during the rainy season, water flows down the slope, falling onto the living area, which threatens to destroy buildings.

The drainage structure can be used on any homestead with individual conditions. In modern construction, systems such as surface and closed drainage are used.

Surface type of drainage

An open drain design is a simple way to remove water from the site after rains or snow melt. It is not difficult to make this drainage with your own hands and with minimal costs. To do this, over the entire living area of ​​​​the site, you need to dig a trench 50 cm wide and deep. The edge of the trench, from where the drains come from, must be made in the form of a cut at an angle of 30 degrees. This action makes it easier to drain the water into the pit. Further, all excavated pits must be connected with one ditch, which leads to a drainage well.

The system for the house after installation should be tested for strength. To do this, it is filled with water and it is checked in which direction the flows will go. If water does not pass during the test, then the installation angle is incorrect, and the line must be redone.

Such a surface method well removes excess moisture from the surface of the earth. To give an aesthetic appearance to the drainage line, it is covered with rubble, stone.

Closed type of drainage

Closed drainage for the house is necessary if the groundwater level is low. A deep sewage system will be needed to avoid flooding basements, cellars and failure of the centralized sewage system for the house.

For such purposes, pipeline drainage is carried out. Before starting work, the place and depth of the future pit is determined. For clay terrain on which residential buildings are located, you need to make a ditch 60-80 cm deep, for combined ones - 85-90 cm, and for sandy ones - 1 meter. After that, the best way to lay the pipeline is selected.

The choice of pipes for the drainage system

For the drainage structure of a private building, corrugated plastic pipes are used. To carry out drainage with your own hands, it is worth remembering that the chosen installation method depends on the type of terrain:

    Crushed stone soil - corrugated pipeline is carried out without filtration material.

    Clay soil - without lack of filtration, but using a layer of gravel and sand with a height of at least 20 cm.

    Loamy soil - the pipe is treated with geotextile to protect the hole from clogging.

    Sandy soil - geotextiles are used as a filter with a layer of crushed stone around the pipe line.

Even in the absence of skills in construction work, drainage for a private house and its implementation will take no more than two weeks.

Stages of system construction

After choosing a place on the site and the material of the product, you can proceed to the installation part of the construction. First of all, a ditch of the required depth is dug near the house. The bottom of the trench is lined with geotextile. The material is spread over the entire surface with room for overlap. It is better to choose geotextiles on a soft base so that the water permeability is better.

If it is decided not to use geomaterial, the bottom of the trench can be made of a crushed stone-sand layer 15 cm high. After that, the pipeline is laid using a triple connection device. The pipe is compacted from above with sand and gravel, and the surface is covered with earth.

There are different ways to remove unwanted water from the site. It is possible to install a sewage well for such purposes, which is built by oneself using concrete rings or a finished plastic product. A drainage pipeline is lowered into the well, and a pipe or pump is installed on the surface of the site to collect excess moisture.

A do-it-yourself sewage disposal system is not a laborious process, it does not require specialized equipment or the involvement of professionals. Drainage of an open and closed type for a site with a clay type of soil will allow you to completely remove excess moisture from the soil surface, thus saving buildings from premature destruction.