Beauty lovers appreciated the graceful grace of lilies even before the beginning of our era. Since then, she has become a permanent decoration of flower arrangements and an addition to festive outfits. Today, lily also continues to evoke admiration and the lack of a blue tint in her colors is by no means considered a disadvantage. Like the rest of the bulbous, it is also loved for its simple planting method and undemanding care, while often forgetting about the peculiarities of the agricultural technology of such flowers. Meanwhile, it is precisely the observance of the conditions for planting and caring for lilies that makes it possible to receive full-fledged healthy flowering from them.
The probability of lily survival on garden plot and its resistance to diseases directly depends on the geographical origin of the plant (European, Caucasian, Asian or North American). Obviously, non-resistant species from tropical regions (long-flowered, Japanese, Philippine) in a northern climate will find it difficult to survive frosts and even if they are sheltered for the winter, they will quickly die due to insufficient air humidity. In the southern conditions of the coastal hot climate, lilies of East Asian origin (Daurian, tiger and their hybrids) will develop poorly. The acidity of the soil for certain species is also associated with the origin of plants: slightly acidified soil is optimal for Asian species and hybrids, and slightly alkaline or neutral soil for European, Caucasian and North American ones. A lily, planted in unsuitable agro-climatic conditions, grows weakened, is more often affected by pathogenic fungi and insect pests, is sick longer and dies quickly.
On unsuitable strongly alkaline soils, lilies develop chlorosis: on the leaves between the veins appear yellow spots... This phenomenon can also be observed during the period of frequent rains, when the soil is washed out most of microelements. In case of chlorosis, it is recommended to apply under lilies inkstone before full recovery healthy color of plants or add peat and coniferous sawdust to the soil to acidify.
Defeat lilies spring frosts also looks like a manifestation of the disease: the outer layer of cells on young leaves peels off, they thicken, bend and become covered with bubbles. Frozen lilies do not die, but they also do not form buds this year. As a preventive measure against freezing, it is recommended to carry out high hilling of plants with soil in case of the danger of recurrent frosts.
Cases are not diseases " sleeping onion"And" flattened thickened stem ". In the first case, a practically healthy bulb may not show signs of development for a whole year, and in the second, in a lily with enough good care several shoots grow together and the plant looks unnatural. Such violations, however, can be observed in lilies for only one year, in the future they usually develop.
In thickened plantings and with prolonged (more than 3 - 5 years) growing lilies in one place, the likelihood of damage increases fungal diseases... The most famous of them are:
Botris (gray rot)... The disease affects the leaves, stems and buds of lilies in damp, cool weather and improper wateringwhen the moisture on them does not have time to dry before night. Appearing on the lower leaves brown spots grow rapidly and merge into large areas brown mucous tissue, covered with a gray bloom. The death of botris-diseased lily stems can occur in a matter of days, but timely protective measures allow you to preserve the bulbs and grow healthy plants from them next year. The fungus hibernates on affected plant debris and, in case of severe damage, in bulbs.
Ways to fight. For prevention purposes, it is recommended:
Bulbs before planting 30 - 60 min. pickle in a suspension of foundationol (0.5%) or TMTD (1%);
- change the place of planting lilies every 3 - 5 years;
- observe the sparseness of landings;
- watering at the root and only in the morning.
In case of forced planting, the top layer of the soil is partially replaced or treated with fungicides (Oxykhom, Khom). In early spring on the seedlings, prophylactic spraying of lilies with solutions of copper sulfate (0.5%), Bordeaux liquid (1%) or copper oxychloride (0.3%) is carried out. If a disease is detected, spraying is carried out every 10 days, alternating preparations, the affected parts of the plants are removed from the site and burned. In the rainy season, the mass death of flowers can be prevented by building a protective film canopy over the lilies.
Fusarium... The disease affects lily bulbs in places of mechanical damage and manifests itself most noticeably during their storage: yellow-brown spots form in the places of attachment of scales, soft areas of rot grow and the bulb disintegrates. Externally, the beginning of the defeat of the lily by Fusarium can be determined by the yellowing and drying of the lower leaves on the stems. The active spread of the disease is observed in damp hot weather. The spores of the fungus remain in the soil for about 3 years.
Ways to fight. Slightly affected bulbs are freed from the affected scales, etched with foundation (0.2%) for 30 - 40 minutes. and planted in a new place, severely affected - removed from the site and destroyed. The soil before planting (for 2 - 3 weeks) is disinfected with formalin (for 10 liters of water, 250 ml of a 40% solution is used to treat 1 cubic meter of soil). Soil cultivation and early spring spraying with foundationol (0.1%), euparen (0.2%), bavistin (0.05%) is carried out with the observance of precautions, since the preparations are toxic.
Rust... The disease affects the leaves, stems and bulbs of lilies, in which the spores of the fungus can hibernate. Small colorless spots that appear on the leaves gradually grow and turn yellow - they form fungal spores. The leaves and stems dry up, but dark brown growths remain on them, from which spores are released in spring and infect new plants.
Ways to fight. For prophylaxis, frequent potassium-phosphorus feeding of lilies and pre-planting treatment of bulbs are recommended. On weakly infected plants, the affected parts should be removed and destroyed; in case of severe damage, the lilies are removed from the site along with the bulbs. In early spring, prophylactic spraying is carried out on the seedlings (with Bordeaux liquid, copper oxychloride), and if signs of the disease are detected, with ditan M-45 (1%), polycarbacin (0.3%), zineb (0.5%) with an adhesive.
Sclerocial rot... The first sign of the manifestation of the disease is uneven shoots of lilies in spring. When checking for lagging bulbs, you can find a thick white felt coating at the neck or on the bottom. In the future, the disease leads to damage and death of roots and forming leaves. Conditions of high humidity at temperatures up to 13 ° C are favorable for the fungus. With an increase in temperature, the active spread of the disease stops.
Ways to fight. They are similar to the methods of combating botris and fusarium: compliance with the recommended planting thickening, pre-planting dressing of the bulbs and disinfecting the soil before planting. Sick plants together with the soil should be removed, the foci of infection should be covered with ash or bleach. It is not recommended to plant lilies after bulbous, also prone to sclerocial rot (daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, gladioli).
Root rot... The disease affects the roots of the bulbs, they are covered with small brown spots. Plants are stunted and lose buds. The onset of the disease can be determined by the yellowing of the tops of the leaves, which gradually leads to the drying out of the entire stem.
Ways to fight:
Careful selection of planting material;
- mandatory disinfection of the soil with a solution of colloidal sulfur (0.4%) and pickling of the bulbs (Fundazol, TMTD) before planting;
- removal of affected plant parts from the site and their destruction.
Bacterial (soft) rot... Affects plants with early spring: oval brown spots appear on the leaves, which grow and cause decay and fall of leaves and peduncles. On the bulbs during storage, rotting depressed spots with an unpleasant odor are found.
Ways to fight:
Inspection and destruction of contaminated planting material during storage;
- pre-planting treatment of bulbs and soil;
- preventive spraying in early spring, and if a disease is detected, spraying with fungicides every 10 days.
Carrying out preventive measures (disinfection of the storage, selection and processing of planting material, reduction of soil moisture, change of site, thinning of plantings), you can successfully fight fungal diseases, which cannot be said about viral diseases. Unfortunately, viral diseases are difficult to diagnose and hardly amenable to treatment. They are spread by pests and sap through non-disinfected garden tools... Viral diseases manifest themselves in different ways: the color and shape of flowers change, leaves curl, stems bend, plants look oppressed and their decorative qualities deteriorate. Lilies infected with viruses are dug up with the bulbs as soon as possible and destroyed outside the site, otherwise the spread of the disease may lead to the loss of all copies. The most common viral diseases are:
Variegated virus... The disease can be spread from tulips. A sign of damage is the spotty color of flowers that is not characteristic of the variety. The disease is also transmitted by aphids with a garden tool.
Rosette disease... It is caused by a complex of viruses. In the affected lily, the growth of the flowering shoot is sharply delayed, the stem is flattened and deformed, the leaves are formed twisted and chlorotic, the plant gradually withers and stops growing. The carrier is aphid.
Mosaic... Symptoms of the disease are often confused with those of botris: pale gray oblong stripes and spots appear on the leaves. An infected lily can bloom for several years and produce healthy, virus-free seeds, but over time it will still die. Aphid disease is also transmitted with garden tools.
Ways to fight. In order to prevent viral diseases, lilies should be regularly examined and specimens with suspicious changes in the color of flowers or leaves should be removed. For cutting, it is recommended to use a set of blades (one blade per one inflorescence), which is disinfected in boiling water or alcohol immediately after cutting. To control disease vectors (aphids), lilies should be periodically sprayed with karbofos (0.3%) or ragor (0.2%).
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Nadezhda Galynskaya 01/23/2014 | 5455
Exist great amount diseases affecting lilies. Let's consider the main ones.
Gray rot, or botrytis (Botrytis elliptica), appears in spring in cool weather with high humidity... Young leaves (affected starting from the bottom of the petiole) look as if scalded with boiling water. Diseased buds are bent, the stems break, fall. Gray mold also affects wet leaves in late summer. OT- and LA-hybrids are the most resistant to disease.
Susceptible - white-flowered hybrids. For protection, they are sprayed with Bordeaux liquid, copper-containing fungicides or other preparations. In a rainy summer, it is necessary to spray it after 7-10 days on dry leaves.
Fusarium rot (bottom rot, basal rot) affects the bulbs - starting from the bottom, depressed ulcers and yellow-brown spots appear. Then it breaks up into pieces, the roots rot. Plants are infected through the roots and in places of mechanical damage.
Signs of fusarium - yellowing of the lower leaves and gradual drying of the whole plant. During the winter or during storage, the infected bulb dies. Disease contributes heat, waterlogging of the soil and the introduction of unripe organic matter.
Severely affected plants are dug up and destroyed. Effectively etching the bulbs 1-2 days before planting with a 0.2% suspension of Topsin-M or Fundazol (Benlat), 0.1% Tecto emulsion for 30 minutes. In the spring, fluff lime is scattered over the soil surface.
Sclerocial rot (fungi of the genus Sclerotium) - the reason for the low growth of plants and small leaves with sufficient soil fertility and good nutrition. It can only be found when the bulbs are dug up. The bulbs of the affected plants rot. The disease, the development of which contributes high humidity and the acidity of the soil is manifested by foci. Weakly affected bulbs are kept in a solution of copper-containing preparations and transplanted to a new place. You can not thicken the planting.
Phithium, or root rot (fungi of the genus Phytium), - Plants are stunted, the leaves become smaller, buds fall off or do not form, the tops of the leaves turn yellow. The bulb is healthy, and the roots are covered with small brown spots. The development of the disease often occurs with waterlogging. Water the soil with a 0.2% solution of Fundazol, 8-10 liters per 1 sq. m. For prophylaxis, before planting, the bulbs are etched with fungicides.
Colorless small spots that appear on the leaves, which increase in size, turn yellow and dry out, are caused by rust (Uromyces lilii). Under the epidermis in these places, summer and autumn sporulation of yellow-orange or dark brown color, respectively, are formed. To combat rust, diseased leaves are collected and destroyed, the plants are sprayed 2-3 times with copper-containing preparations, more often they are fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
If the peduncles, flowers and bulbs rot and become covered with a green coating in warm and humid weather, the plants are affected by penicillosis (fungi of the genus Penicillium). For spraying, use any fungicides containing zinc, copper or a solution of raspberry-colored potassium permanganate.
Bacterial or wet rot (Pectobacterium carotovorum, Pectobacterium aroidea) affects bulbs, leaves and peduncles. In early spring, brown oval spots appear on the leaves, gradually turn yellow, then the leaves and peduncles rot. The disease develops due to waterlogged soil and excess nitrogen. During storage, unpleasant-smelling depressed spots appear on the scales of the bulbs, causing rotting. Such bulbs are immediately separated and destroyed. When a disease occurs during growth, lilies are sprayed with fungicides every ten days. Before planting, the bulbs are pickled with Fundazol or watered with it in the soil in the hole.
Viral diseases
Lily mosaic virus determined by pale green spots on young leaves and stripes along leaf veins. Plant growth stops. Leaves, buds and flowers are deformed. Mosaic virus is transmitted by aphids and mechanically with the sap of diseased plants.
When rosette lilies (Lily rosette virus)the peduncle is deformed and takes the form of a rosette, since its growth is greatly delayed. Chlorotic leaves are deformed. Cucumber and tobacco mosaic viruses cause ring spots and streaks on the leaves. It is advisable not to plant lilies next to tulips and hosts in order to avoid infection with the variegation virus, the control measures for which have not yet been developed. All diseased plants are burned. A preventive measure is the destruction of aphids as a carrier of the disease. Orleans hybrids are more resistant to viral diseases.
Non-communicable diseases
Chlorosis - yellowing of the leaves between the veins is observed if the acidity of the soil is above normal - the soil is too alkaline.
Magenta foliage associated with a lack of nutrition (due to rotting roots). Occurs on poorly drained soil in conditions of excessive moisture.
Deformation of leaves and curvature of stems (formation of thickening and blistering) occurs when lilies are damaged by spring frosts. Tubular hybrids are most susceptible to damage from low temperatures.
Fasciation - accretion of several stems into one in case of accidental damage to the growth point. This phenomenon is observed only with good care, when lilies are able to release several shoots from one bulb. The next year, a normal stem grows.
It happens that a bulb planted according to all the rules in the first year does not germinate (sleep) and does not die, but the next spring it sprouts.
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Caring for lilies after flowering consists in cutting and covering them for the winter or digging out the bulbs and their proper storage... In early autumn, an examination of the stems, leaves and bulbs is carried out.
If diseases are detected, flowers are treated. In order to prevent the appearance of diseases, the soil is enriched with fertilizers and regular feeding of lilies is carried out throughout the year.
At the end of summer, lilies, with a natural way of life, fade. The stem and leaves turn yellow and fall off, and some of the roots die off. Garden lilies need to be prepared for winter.
Frost-resistant lilies are cut 15 cm from the root, sprinkled with a small layer of peat (up to 10 cm), covered with fallen leaves in the fall. Oriental lily hybrids do not tolerate excess moisture. To avoid getting the bulbs and roots wet during the spring thawing of snow, the plantings are covered with plastic wrap.
Tubular and Orleans hybrids, some other lilies do not tolerate cold winter in middle lane... Their bulbs must be dug up. All lilies require replanting every 3-5 years. Their tubers also need to be dug up and sent for storage.
When the lilies have been dug up, they should not be left in the sun. The bulbs are immediately removed to a cool place. If the roots of the bulb are dry, then the flower will not sprout during planting. If the roots lie in the sun a short time, you need to cover them with wet rags and wait a while until they absorb the water.
Bulbs with roots extracted from the ground must be thoroughly rinsed and treated in a 0.2% solution of foundationol. To store the bulbs, you need to choose a container, often this plastic bag with the perforation done. The bulbs are wrapped in it without tying and are stored all winter at a temperature of 5 ° C.
Treatment and prevention of lilies from diseases and pests after flowering
Lilies, like other flowers, are prone to various diseases... Caring for lilies after flowering includes their cure for dangerous diseases that a flower could get sick in summer or early autumn. While the lily is growing in the garden, only external manifestations diseases.
If you notice a strange pigmentation, any damage to the stem, leaves or flowers, by autumn, the bulbs of any kind of lily do not leave the ground. Depending on the symptoms of the disease after flowering, and sometimes without waiting for its end, treatment measures are taken.
Lily diseases to be treated after flowering:
Botrytis is a gray rot.
Fusarium is a bacterial soft rot.
Mosaic is a viral disease.
Botrytis - gray rot
The appearance of slightly noticeable spots of a yellow tint, spreading along the lower part of the sheets, is replaced by distinctly bright gray spots, fluffy in texture. They gradually grow and cover the leaves completely, soon moving on to the stems and heads of flowers.
Wet weather allows fungal spores to completely line all parts of the lilies. As a result, the entire aerial part of the plant is affected. The leaves and stem are covered with brown spots and then fall off.
Prevention of gray mold carried out immediately after the flowering of lilies.
The fungus is especially active in humid environments.
The most favorable environment is wet plants that do not have time to dry out until night and moist, cool air after rain. The wind easily spreads spores of fungi that cause gray rot.
From strong wind or hypothermia, lilies get stress, their immunity decreases, due to the leaves are easily affected by botrytis.
Heavy showers begin in the fall, at a time when the lilies are already fading. Many lilies are not dug out of the ground every year. Even when digging, you need to let the lilies stand a little without flowers so that the bulb grows stronger before the next planting. You can protect lilies from the fungus after flowering by adhering to traditional preventive methods.
Before the onset of the rainy season, you need to install a wooden or metal carcass - it is enough to drive in four pegs along the edges of the flower beds with lilies. Pull some plastic wrap over the pegs with a slight slope to one side. Falling precipitation will not accumulate on flowers and will not be able to provoke the appearance of a fungus. Do not use agrofibre as a shelter, it is water permeable. Themselves, if necessary, water the lilies only at the root in the morning.
If the plants are already sick, you need to immediately cut off the affected parts of the plant or all of its aboveground part. Affected vegetation must be burned or otherwise disposed of. The main thing is that the fungus, the spores of which are always present on the affected plants, do not get into the ground. In the ground, it will wait out the winter, move to newly planted plants and destroy new sprouts of lilies or other plantings.
In case of disease, a white saliva-like mass will form on the tubers and roots. If untreated, the aboveground and underground parts of the plant become covered with sclerotia. Such plants can be saved from disease. It is necessary to thoroughly rinse the tubers with roots in running water and soak them in a suspension of foundationol (0.5%) or TMTD pesticides (1%) for 20-30 minutes.
Fusarium blight - bacterial soft rot
If the bulbs are slightly damaged or the infection is not yet visible, but there are suspicions of its presence, sprinkle the bulbs with sulfur and coal in a 1: 1 ratio.
Soft rot occurs when the bulb is damaged. Most often it comes from improper storage. Better prevention - gentle handling when digging and packing the bulbs, storage in optimal temperature... Lily falls ill with fusarium if, after digging, it has not been thoroughly dried.
Bulbs and roots rot from heavy rainfall. Methods for protecting bulbs from high humidity outside - construction of a frame covered plastic wrap... Some hybrids of lilies, for example, Asian and LA hybrids, are dug up in the second decade of August, since it is very difficult to keep them from moisture.
Mosaic
On the edges of the lily leaves, oval, elongated, white, sometimes black spots with white streaks appear. Leaves and flowers grow skewed, crooked, flowers and buds have irregular shape, sometimes white streaks form on them. Soon the entire aerial part of the flower decays and dies off. The disease is caused by aphids, ticks and viruses entering the lily sap into the stem through secateurs.
There is no cure for this disease, but preventive precautions must be taken. The lily stem is always cut before wintering, regardless of whether the bulb or roots are removed. To cut the stem, you need to use pruning shears with replaceable metal blades, which must be changed after cutting each flower and disinfected in alcohol or boiling water.
Slightly but noticeably drooping, sluggish plants, even without characteristic spots on the leaves, may already be infected with a viral disease. At the slightest suspicion, you need to examine the plant very carefully, if not one of the symptoms is detected, it is advisable to dig up the bulb and soak it in phytosporin (4 drops per 200 ml).
Careful plant prophylaxis is necessary, as mites and aphids reproduce very quickly. In the spring, they quickly fly from one flower to another. Over the summer, more than half of all plants can get sick with a viral disease.
Top dressing and fertilizers for domestic lilies
The introduction of mineral fertilizers is useful for lilies. In the spring, fertilizing with the addition of nitrogen is used:
ammonium nitrate 1 tsp for 1 m²;
nitroammofoska 1 matchbox on a bucket of water.
Liquid complex fertilizers - suspensions or solutions containing 1-3 active ingredients... For example, superphosphate - 20 g per 10 liters of water; liquid potassium dressing - 15-20 g of potassium chloride or potassium salt per 10 liters of water, dry 15-25 g per 1 m².
In summer it is recommended:
wood ash 5-6 times per season;
infusion of mullein.
In the fall, nitrogen-free mineral fertilizers
from a solution of 30-40 g of superphosphate, mix with 15-20 g of potassium salt.
Organic fertilizers for lilies are contraindicated. They do not bring benefits, but they cause the development of fungal diseases.
As a prophylaxis against diseases, domestic lilies should be sprayed with Bordeaux liquid (1%) every 3 years.
Lilies are prepared for winter in two ways. Frost-resistant hybrids are cut, left in the ground and carefully covered with peat, leaves, and sometimes a film. Frost-resistant, transplanting or diseased lilies are also pruned and dug up. Each dug out onion is carefully examined, if symptoms of the disease are detected, treatment is carried out, if necessary, burned. Bulbs must be handled with care to preserve planting material in a good condition.
For domestic lilies, you need to regularly introduce complementary foods, add fertilizers to the soil.
Taking proper care of lilies will help keep beautiful flowers in your garden and home for a long time.
Nutritious lily bulbs are very fond of not only rodents, but also smaller pests. In addition, the succulent stems and fleshy leaves of plants infect viral and fungal diseasesthat spoil appearance flowers and can even completely destroy them.
To cure a lily, first of all, it is necessary to correctly determine the cause of its damage. Read this article to learn how to determine which pest has settled on your beauties, as well as distinguish between fungal and viral diseases.
Fungal diseases of lilies
Lily is attacked by fungal infections that occur in many flower crops... High humidity contributes to the spread of rot, improper care, lack of preventive measures.
Of all fungal diseases, gray rot is the most dangerous. Initially, the disease affects the lower leaves of plants, but very quickly spreads to all parts of the flower.
Signs
The first signs of gray rot are brown round spots, which in the process of development are transformed into brown mucous tissue with a gray coating. Gray rot spreads in rainy and damp weather, as well as when sharp drops temperature. Affected lilies do not die, but only slow down in growth and lose their decorative effect.
Control measures
It is difficult to stop the disease, since the pathogen hibernates in bulbs and plant debris. Therefore, before planting, the bulbs must be soaked in a 0.5-1% solution of a TMTD dressing agent or in a 0.25-0.5% Fundazole suspension. When the first signs of the disease appear, the flowers are treated every 1-1.5 weeks with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid or another fungicide (Fundazol, Hom, Oxyhom).
Fusarium
Fusarium is a rot that affects the bottom of a lily bulb. A plant that normally develops during the growing season dies during wintering. The cause of the disease is dampness, introduction organic fertilizerscontaining spores of the fungus.
Signs
The defeat of the fungus begins at the bottom of the bulb. In the place where the scales attach to it, the lily bulb turns brown and falls apart. It is almost impossible to recognize this disease on a growing flower, since it can develop normally due to the supra-root roots that are not damaged by the fungus. Nevertheless, in winter the plant is doomed to inevitable death.
Control measures
Disinfect the soil copper sulfate and formalin 2-3 weeks before planting the bulbs. Soak the bulbs themselves for half an hour in 0.2% Fundazole solution. Spray plantings every 1-1.5 weeks with a 0.1% solution of Fundazol or Bavistin. You can also carry out the treatment with a 0.2% solution of Topsin-M or Euparen.
Phithium is a disease of lilies, which causes decay of the roots, as a result of which the development of culture is disrupted: the plant receives less nutrients and moisture. Affected lily loses its decorative effect, blooms poorly.
Signs
The tops of the leaves turn yellow, the lily dries. The roots of the bulb are covered with brown spots.
Control measures
Remove affected plant parts. Before planting, infect the soil with a 0.4% solution of colloidal sulfur, soak the bulbs for half an hour in a 0.2% Fundazole solution.
Blue mold attacks the bulbs during storage.
Signs
White spots of fungal hyphae with a greenish bloom on the bulbs. When you dig up the bulbs, you will notice that they have turned yellow and their roots are dead.
Control measures
Discarding diseased bulbs. Compliance with storage rules. Ventilation and disinfection of the store.
Penicillosis
Penicillosis affects all parts of the lilies and provokes their decay.
Signs
Bulbs, flowers, stems are covered with a green bloom. Diseased plants are stunted and form weak peduncles.
Control measures
Observe storage rules. When the first signs appear, pickle the affected bulbs in a 0.2% solution of potassium permanganate.
Rust
This disease is transmitted through plant debris contaminated with fungal spores.
Signs
The first signs of the disease are small colorless spots that turn yellow over time. Pads of red spores appear on the surface of the spots. As a result, the stems and leaves of the lilies dry out.
Control measures
Remove and burn affected leaves. Spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of Tsineb and regularly feed them with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. Re-plant lilies in the area where rusty bulbs grew, no earlier than after 3 years.
Lily viral diseases
Bulbous viral diseases are spread by insect pests (aphids and thrips) or the growers themselves through an infected garden tools.
Cucumber and tobacco mosaic viruses
A fairly common disease of lilies, which is carried by aphids.
Signs
Cucumber and tobacco mosaic viruses appear as light streaks and ring spots on leaves and flowers. As a result of damage, the lily stem is deformed and stops growing.
Control measures
Regularly inspect lilies and remove suspicious leaves, destroy specimens affected by mosaics. Disinfect garden tools. In order to control the vector of the disease (aphids), spray the plantings with a 0.3% solution of Karbofos.
Tulip variegation virus
This virus takes up residence inside the cells of lilies. Aphids from tulips are most often transferred.
Signs
The variegation virus disrupts the pigmentation of the petals, as a result of which flowers appear with strokes, strokes, spots of a different color. Diseased bulbs of the next generation decrease in size, the plants weaken, the variety gradually degenerates.
Control measures
Spray plantings with a 0.3% solution of Karbofos to protect them from aphids. Regularly inspect lilies and remove suspicious leaves, destroy specimens affected by mosaics. Disinfect garden tools.
Rosette disease
The onset of this disease in lilies is provoked by a whole complex of viruses.
Signs
Lilies infected with this virus are characterized by thickening and yellowing of the stem and the absence of flowers.
Control measures
Spray plantings with a 0.3% solution of Karbofos to protect them from aphids. Regularly inspect lilies and remove suspicious leaves, destroy specimens affected by mosaics. Disinfect garden tools before any manipulation of the bulbs and aboveground part plants.
Lily pests
There are about 15 types of pests that affect lilies. These small insects weaken plants and carry viruses. Let's list the most dangerous of them.
Spider mite
This pest feeds on the juice of young shoots, which inhibits the growth of lilies. Eggs red spider mite can live in soil for up to 5 years.
Signs
The lily leaves curl, the plant itself gradually dries up. On closer inspection, the leaves show white eggs and adults of the red spider mite.
Control measures
If a pest is detected, spray the plants soapy water, 0.2% solution of Karbofos or acaricide (Apollo, Aktofit, etc.).
Squeak beetle (lily beetle, bulbous rattle)
Bright red squeak beetle lays larvae on lily leaves color pinkcovered with green-brown mucus, which can strip plants of almost all leaves.
Signs
Larvae and adults of the pest visible to the naked eye.
Control measures
Spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of Karbofos or another insecticide (Inta-Vir, Decis).
The lily fly starts inside an unpainted lily bud. The damage will become noticeable when the fly larva has already done "its job" and pupated in the ground.
Signs
Eaten pistils and anthers of stamens on flowers.
Control measures
Destroy damaged buds. Spray the plants with 0.2% solution of Karbofos or another insecticide (Ditox, EC, etc.).
Medvedka
The bear eats the roots, bulbs and stems of the lily.
Signs
The presence of a bear on the site can be seen from the holes in the soil. If you notice that the lily is dying, and numerous passages emerge on the surface of the earth around the plant, most likely the reason is precisely in the defeat of the bear.
Control measures
Arrange traps for the bear in the ground. For example, dung pits or slate shelters where the insect will crawl to warm up and lay eggs. The bear collected in one place will be easy to destroy. In late autumn, you need to dig deep into the ground in order to destroy the wintering stages of the pest.
Khrushch (beetle larva)
Like the bear, the grub larva eats the underground parts of the flower, which leads to its death.
Signs
White fleshy larvae are visible in the ground. When damaged, the death of the plant occurs.
Control measures
Dig deep into the soil before planting, manually pick the larvae of the beetle out of it.
This pest lays eggs on the soil surface in May-June. Young individuals hatch from the eggs, which take root into the bulb, causing it to rot.
Signs
In late spring - early summer, small black flies begin to circle around the lilies, hovering in flight and making a characteristic babbling sound. If you spot these pests, most likely they have already deposited their larvae in the soil.
Control measures
Spray plants with a 0.2% solution of Karbofos or another insecticide (Inta-Vir, etc.). In autumn, dig up the ground, cover with peat. Powder the bulbs with Bazudin before planting.
To reduce the number of pests, planting lilies should be kept clean, maintain normal soil moisture, remove plant debris, destroy pests, spray plants with insecticides.
We hope that now, if suddenly your lilies begin to "mope", you can easily establish the cause of their ill health, clearly identify the pest or disease and "declare war on them" in time. Take good care of your plants and don't get sick.