It happens that one of us is at a dead end when it is necessary not to show maximum imagination, but to make simple calculations to make a simple box. And there are a lot of master classes on the Internet, and schematics are freely available ... But there is no necessary box among them, just the one you need. Panic aside! There is no reason to be upset. We will help ourselves.
I warn you right away that this master class is very boring. It is useful only for those who periodically need a certain box of a certain size. It is clear that there are a great many variations in the forms and designs of boxes-packaging, it is impossible to cover everything in one master class. Let's deal with the classic version: a box with a removable lid. And we will have cardboard not fat!
So what can affect the process of making a box? It is clear that a lot depends on the cardboard: both the thickness and the dimensions of the sheet are important. I will say right away that even if the cardboard does not seem too thick to you, you cannot ignore its thickness: millimeter to millimeter - and an obvious skew may result.
So how do you calculate sizes? (The brave ones draw right away, but I like to do the calculations on a rough draft - so as not to forget anything!) For convenience, I personally use a notebook sheet in a cage. It is not necessary to draw in full size: it is enough to approximately adhere to the ratio of sizes. We draw the bottom of the box: which one do you need - square or rectangular? Now we estimate the optimal height of the walls - the one that is necessary for you. Drawn. Do not forget about the method of attaching the walls: we will use the simplest one - in a circle. This means that you need to make small cuts - one on each side of the workpiece (in the second diagram, these notch lines are indicated in red). Bend the workpiece, "ears" - allowances for gluing - grease with glue, bend and assemble the box. That's all. Just remember that this method is suitable if the height is not more than the length-width of the box!
Now, to consolidate in consciousness, we will vary the sizes. For example, the length of the box is 20 cm, the width, for example, you need 10, and the height is 15 cm.Counting: 15 + 20 + 15 = 50 cm (this is the length of the sweep), and 15 + 10 + 15 = 40 cm (this is the width of the sweep ).
If you need a box with a square bottom, then the sweep will turn out to be square. For example: the size of the bottom of the box should be 20 x 20 cm, and the height - 15 cm. It is easy to calculate: 15 + 20 + 15 = 50 - this means that a square of 50 x 50 cm is needed to build a sweep
You can make a slightly different version of the sweep: from two opposite sides, two pairs of "ears" for fastening. (You can leave the "ears" -squares, or you can round them off)
Have you noticed that the larger the box you need, the less chances you have to "fit" the scan into a solid standard sheet? What to do? Compose from individual parts!
For example, in one direction the scan "fits", and in the other it does not fit. So, we glue two sides. Just do not forget about the "increase" for the connection of parts! It is enough to make 1.5-2 cm for an increase - everything will stick perfectly.
And if the box is so large that it is impossible even to inscribe the sides in one direction, then you can glue all the sides + the bottom. In addition, this method is suitable not only for large boxes: you can also glue a small one, if, for example, it is conceived that all sides will be multi-colored.
The calculations in this case are also extremely simple. The bottom (in the photo - a green detail): let there be a square of 20 x 20 cm and another increase on each side of 1.5 cm.It turns out 1.5 + 20 + 1.5 = 23 cm (Small squares, obtained in the corners, must just cut out - so that they do not interfere with bending the increments upward for assembly.
Let's assume that the height of the box should be 40 cm! This means that two opposite walls of the box will have a size of 1.5 + 20 + 1.5 cm - this is a width and a height of 40 cm (in the photo - blue details). And the other two opposite sides do not need an increase: we draw two parts 20 x 40 cm (in the photo - red parts)
There are cases when only this method is suitable - gluing in parts. For example, if you use very thick and dense cardboard. In this case, even an increase is not needed: the glue is applied to the thickness of the workpieces. There, when carrying out calculations, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the cardboard very carefully!
It is not at all difficult to calculate the lid for our box: again we draw a square or rectangle with dimensions like the bottom of the box, but be sure to add double the thickness of the cardboard. Be careful here: a lot depends on the way the lid is glued. If you plan to bend the "ears" inward, then the increase will be bigger. In my classes, I recommend that students glue the "ears" on the outside. We just give them a neat shape (ovals, for example) and glue on the outside. It looks quite decorative.
The master class has come to an end! To some, the material presented here may seem primitive, however, do not rush to criticize - I quite often in practice come across situations when it is difficult for people to imagine how to fold a volumetric structure from a flat sheet, having previously calculated its dimensions. Therefore, I propose to consider this information auxiliary. If anyone has a problem making a box of a certain size, I hope the tricks shown here will help solve it!
This time, dear friends, we will be engaged in the manufacture of cardboard packaging for cut soap. This topic, I think, will be of interest not only to soap-makers working with a soap base, but also to those enthusiasts who make soap from scratch. Although, by and large, even if you have only a consumer attitude towards soap making, do not rush to close the page - New Year's holidays are approaching, and gift wrapping made of cardboard, whatever one may say, will only “grow in price”. But since I took measurements for the boxes from soap, we will proceed from this.
It is no secret that most often, bar soap is a rectangular (or close to it) shape. So the rectangular box will come in handy now. There can be a lot of options for its execution. Some of them will be considered in a series of publications devoted to the packaging of bar soap. Let's start with the so-called matchbox. Structurally, such a box is very simple, but not devoid of its "zest". To be honest, it impresses me most of all as a packaging for bar soap.
Now about the size. The basic samples for me were the pieces of soap made from a silicone mold like this:
From the soap cast in it, four pieces are obtained with a width of 64 mm, a length of 90 mm and a thickness of about 23 mm (if filled completely). Soap of this size fits well into a box with parameters 67 × 93 × 25 mm. The template for this matchbox can be downloaded here:
The pdf file contains 2 sets of templates - with dashed lines (for printing on the wrong side of the cardboard with a ready-made design) and without them (for imposing your own original design in a graphic editor and subsequent printing on the front side of the cardboard).
How to make a matchbox, consider the example of the set №1. I believe that for those of you, friends, who have already got the hang of making square boxes, the technology is obvious. But just in case, below is a small photo instruction. As usual, for work we need:
- a printer;
- 1 sheet of A4 cardboard (I used ordinary white for children's creativity);
- ruler;
- stationery knife;
- a tool for creasing (scribbled ballpoint pen, knitting needle, nail file, “goat's leg” compasses, etc.);
- scissors;
- double sided tape;
- the substrate on which we will cut the cardboard (I now use a self-healing rug, which I advise you too).
Matchbox in person:
I tied it with a ribbon to match the color of the soap - it turned out almost festive:
As you may have noticed, in the main photo there is another box (the one with the green bow), which has slightly different sizes. This is also a package from my arsenal. Perhaps its size is not the most popular, but if it suits someone, then download:
Well, and finally - a box specially "tuned" for soap "from scratch". I myself only dream of such soap, but the sizes used are the most real ones. They were prompted to me by one wonderful craftswoman-zero-maker.
Again, I repeat, the scope of application of the proposed templates is by no means limited production of cardboard packaging for handmade soap. This type of box can be an excellent gift wrapping, or they themselves can become an original gift, for example, a box for storing small things. Here, the main thing is to show imagination and decorate it in an appropriate way. But we'll talk about this and how to use the templates from the set # 2 (there are some small secrets).
Thank you for attention!
Until next time in KARTONKINO!
5.1. View arrangement rules... To fully reveal the shape of objects in drawing, various images are used: types, sections, cuts. First, you will explore the species.
View- This is an image of the visible part of the object's surface facing the observer. To reduce the number of images, it is allowed to show the necessary invisible parts of the object's surface in views using dashed lines. And the difference from projections in views, some conventions and simplifications are applied. You will study them later.
The image obtained on the frontal projection plane is called front view... This image is taken in the drawing as main... Therefore, this type is also called the main one. When making a drawing, the object must be positioned relative to the frontal plane of the projections so that the main view gives the most complete picture of the shape and size of the object.
The image on the horizontal projection plane is called top view.
The image on the profile plane of the projections is called left side view.
Along with the front, top and left views, right, bottom, and back views can be used to depict an object (all of them are called basic). However, the number of views in the drawing should be the smallest, but sufficient to fully reveal the shape and size of the object. To reduce the number of views on them, it is allowed to show, if necessary, the invisible parts of the object's surface with dashed lines. For the same purpose, various conventions, signs and inscriptions established by the standard are used.
Rice. 52. Three types of parts
Figure 52 shows three views of the part, a visual representation of which is shown in Figure 53. The main view is the front view. Below it is the top view, to the right of the main view, and at the same height - the left view. The cut in the rectangular part is invisible in the top view, so it is shown with a dashed line.
Rice. 53. Visual representation of a part
5.2. Local species... In some cases, in a drawing, instead of a full view, you can apply a part of it. This simplifies the construction of the image of the subject.
The image of a separate, limited place on the surface of an object is called local view... It is used in that case. when it is required to show the shape and dimensions of individual elements of the part (flange, keyway, etc.).
The local view can be limited by a clipping line, an axis of symmetry, etc. It can be marked on the drawing and a caption. Place the local view on a free field of the drawing or in a projection connection with other images. At school, you will consider local views located only in a projection connection (Fig. 54).
Rice. 54. Local views located in the projection link
The use of a local view allows you to reduce the amount of graphic work, save space in the drawing field.
- Give a definition of the species.
- How are views arranged in a drawing?
- Which species is called the main one and why?
- What kind is called local? For what purpose is it used? What does the topical form give?
Rice. 56. Exercise assignment
Sketch the data in Figure 56 into the workbook, and the drawings and supplement them with the image of the second box.
Directions for work... If you find it difficult to solve the problem, make up the models from the boxes, as shown in Figure 56, and compare the drawings of the models you made with their visual images. Make yourself one or two more models of two or three matchboxes and complete their drawings.
Practical work number 3
Modeling from a drawing
Rice. 58. Tasks for practical work No. 3
Directions for work... Modeling is the process of making a model of an object from a drawing. You have already done this in labor lessons. Before you start modeling, you need to prepare the necessary material: cardboard, wire.
To make a cardboard model, first cut out its blank. Determine the dimensions of the workpiece according to the image of the part (see Fig. 58). Mark (outline) the cutouts. Cut them along the outlined outline. Remove the cut out parts and bend the model according to the drawing. To prevent the cardboard from straightening after bending, draw a line from the outside with some sharp object in the place of bending.
A soft wire of arbitrary length must be used for modeling.
A match is called a thin wooden handle, equipped with an ignition head on top. The main purpose of this stick is to produce open fire. Not a single person can do without matches today. With their use, they light gas in the kitchen, make a fire in the forest, light it up, etc. The sizes of the matches are small, and therefore they are usually used in large quantities. It would be extremely inconvenient to store them in bulk. Therefore, they are put in small boxes. The latter can contain them in several tens, hundreds or even thousands of them. The size of the matchbox, respectively, may be different. However, certain standards for height, width and length are still available.
A bit of history
The matches themselves were invented in 1805 by the physicist J. Chancel. For a long time they were sold without a box. The sizes of matches at that time were larger than they are now, and they lit on any hard surface. The first boxes for storing them supposedly appeared in 1833. Initially, the grater was placed inside. It was not very convenient, of course, and the fact that matches in such boxes sometimes ignited spontaneously simply due to friction against each other.
Safety matches began to be produced only in the middle of the 19th century. in Sweden. They appeared in Russia in the 1880s. Supplied from the original cost in our country very expensive, they could only be used by wealthy people.
Standard matchbox size
Such products are made today most often from ordinary thick cardboard. On sale there are pocket versions of matchboxes, household, fireplace, etc. But most often, of course, the first type of such cardboard products is used.
The size of a standard matchbox is determined by GOST 1820-2001. What exactly should be the dimensions of this product, see the table below.
As you can see, the length of a standard box is not five centimeters, as everyone used to think. This figure is slightly higher. The size of the matchbox in centimeters is 5.05x3.75x1.45. The matches themselves are made 42.5 mm long and 2.05 mm thick. There should be 45 of them in a box, but in some cases, their number can be reduced to 38. It is interesting that in Soviet times, according to the standards, at least 60 pieces of matches should have been packed in boxes of this size.
Label design and usability
A matchbox is a regular cardboard parallelepiped, both sides of which are covered with labels. The design of the latter can be anything, but it is not the same. The labels are positioned so that the consumer can immediately understand exactly how the inside of the box is turned. If they had the same design, it would be very easy to scatter matches when opening. Most often, the front labels of modern boxes depict the logos of different companies, and on the back - their contact information.
What other standards exist
GOST standards, in addition to the different design of labels, in the manufacture of matchboxes, the following are observed:
Instead of two, it is allowed to use one label (on the top side).
The inside of the box should hold tightly to the outside and not fall out when its position changes.
The flow of a phosphoric float on the wide side of the box should not exceed 4 mm.
The label should not overlap the narrow part by more than 1 mm.
The total area of the phosphoric mass of the grater should ensure free ignition of twice the number of matches in the box.
As for the matches themselves, sparks and burning slag are not allowed to fly off when they are ignited. The head must be at least 2.5 mm long. Sulfur drips are not allowed. Below we present to your attention a drawing of a matchbox with dimensions (standard).
How is it stored and transported
Filled match boxes are packed in accordance with GOST 13511-91. First, they are wrapped in paper packs of 10. Then they are folded into cardboard boxes. The latter are transported in a covered transport in a packaged state. Such products cannot be transported on open platforms. After all, when the matches get wet, they will become unusable. Store matches at a temperature of no more than 40 degrees and a humidity of 85%.
Other sizes
Standard matches are sold at every grocery store and tobacco stand. But sometimes in the shopping center you can see boxes of other sizes. For example, on sale sometimes there is a similar in shape and design to the standard version "700" or "500". The size of a matchbox of this variety can be 92x80x46 mm (for 700 pieces) or 52x70x132 (for 500 pieces). Of course, you can't put such a product in your pocket, but for the kitchen it can be quite convenient.
You can also buy “Household” matches in very large boxes - 75x225x155 mm or 47x196x130 mm. This option has a slightly different design than the usual one. There is no pull-out part in it. It is installed vertically and opens from the top. These sizes of matchboxes allow you to stack them in 2000 pieces. matches (both in that and in the other).
Matches can be sold not only in boxes, but also in beautiful jars. This option is also well suited for thrifty housewives. 1100-1500 pieces of matches can be poured in such jars. Among other things, this option will look very good in the kitchen too.
How to make a beautiful matchbox with your own hands
Such a souvenir is perfect as a gift for guests if the celebration is organized, for example, in nature. The invitees will be able to use it for its intended purpose or take it home with them as a souvenir. It is best if the size of the matchbox used in this case as a frame is standard. But you can use any other option. You should also prepare beautiful paper, ribbons and invisible hairpins (hairpins).
The upper part is removed from the box and unfolded. Beautiful inscriptions are applied to the paper. You can make them by hand. But it is better to find a template on the Internet and print it on a printer. Next, the paper is cut to fit the size of the box (2 large walls and 1 small). It should be glued in such a way that 1 grater remains visible. Jagged edges can be trimmed using scissors and a ruler. Next, the box must be carefully glued again. In order to prevent the paper from moving away, you can use invisibility. After the glue has dried, you can insert the matchbox itself into the beautiful shell.
To make the souvenir look even more attractive, it should be tied with a beautiful ribbon, making a bow or a rose. Sometimes, instead of matches, a piece of bright toilet soap is placed in such gift boxes instead of matches. In this case, a very interesting souvenir is also obtained. What size of the matchbox to choose in this case is not a very important question. Both a small souvenir with soap and a large one will look beautiful.
Fancy boxes
Of course, if you wish, you can buy a ready-made model of such an original souvenir. For example, boxes-calendars, products divided into two parts (for whole matches and burnt ones) or with holes for candles look very nice. An interesting gift can also be, for example, a wooden box intended for only one match, a cowboy, etc.
The horizontal and vertical projections of a point, as we have just established, completely set us its position in space. In practice, when depicting spatial forms, it is often necessary to use the third, or profile, projection plane. It is chosen perpendicular to the first two. Therefore, everything that has been said about the system of two planes will also be true in relation to the system of three planes.
However, before we start building and reading production drawings, let's return to the task that we posed at the beginning of this chapter. Let us find out how the individual views were obtained, which are shown in the drawing of the matchbox (see Fig. 10). We already know now that they are its rectangular projections onto three mutually perpendicular planes. In contrast to the designations of horizontal and vertical projections of points, the projection of a point, for example A, onto the profile plane is designated as follows: A "" (pronounced "a three dashes"). It remains to consider now how the transition from a spatial system of three planes to a solid is carried out.
Let us agree, as before, to assume that the vertical plane of the projections coincides with the plane of the drawing. Let's combine the other two with the same plane: horizontal and profile. To do this, we rotate each of them around the line of its intersection with the vertical plane, like about the axis of rotation. The direction in which each plane is rotated until it aligns with the plane of the drawing is shown in FIG. 19 circular arrows. The combined positions of the horizontal and profile planes are indicated in this figure by the numbers I and III, underlined by two lines. In the same way, the designations of the combined positions of the horizontal and vertical projections of the box are underlined.
The result of the alignment of planes is a diagram. In this case, it corresponds to a system of not two, but three projection planes. Since on the diagram we have a set of separate types of the same object, such an image has recently been called a complex drawing in rectangular projections.
If now the plot marked in Fig. 19 digits
I, II and III, to show in a simplified way, i.e., without frames and without
The designations of the projections of the object themselves, then we come to the drawing placed in Fig. 10. Note only that FIG. 19 and 10 are made on different scales.
We are familiar with the path in which the transition from an object to its drawing is carried out. And what about the reverse problem
The influences of the arrows on the directly opposite, we will be able to imagine the object depicted on it according to the drawing.
Our short excursion into the * * production drawing area is over. She introduced us to many interesting and important things. We have seen how the graphic language has improved over time. From ...
We have already found out the name and material of the part shown in Fig. 35. We also found out that the mandrel was drawn in full size. Now let's move on to projections and try to represent its shape using them. ...
The name of the part, the designation of the scale in which it is drawn, the conditional code of the material used for its manufacture, and some other information is reported by the main inscription. This inscription is a kind of "passport" that is supplied ...