Foreword
Hydrangea requires a minimum of attention, in return giving the maximum of its beauty. Planting hydrangeas in the spring is a surefire way to decorate your yard with this plant. We have tried to collect compact look all necessary knowledge, which in the first place will be useful to you for a successful disembarkation and further care.
Required Tools
Planting hydrangeas in spring - how to plant and plant?
Getting hydrangea seedlings is quite simple, because this plant reproduces both by dividing the bush, and by layering and cuttings. Cuttings can be prepared during autumn pruning and planted in spring open ground. Planting hydrangeas in the spring in the northern regions is the most right move, although in the south it is possible to plant seedlings in the fall. In the case of hydrangea, it is important to remember that most of its varieties do not tolerate heat and direct sun., so it is better to plant it in shaded places, which is only for the best, because there are not so many candidates among shrubs for growth in the shade. However, among the huge abundance of varieties you will find those plants that tolerate heat.
Hydrangea transplantation in the spring, as well as planting, is carried out according to general rules. First you need to prepare a landing pit or, in the case of planting a hedge, a meter-wide trench. The depth is small, up to 40 cm, since the root system lies superficially, which, by the way, must be taken into account when choosing neighbors for this shrub. For different varieties different distances also stand out, for example, paniculate hydrangea will feel comfortable only at a distance of at least two meters from other “competitors”, while macrophila gets along with closer neighbors.
However, if you want to get the result immediately, you can plant plants at a shorter distance, but over time it is important to thin them out, leaving stronger and more branched ones.
A two-year supply of fertilizers, such as urea, potassium sulfate, superphosphate, and, of course, organic matter, such as well-rotted manure, must be filled into the planting pits. After filling them at the bottom of the hole, you need to pour a small layer of earth on top to protect the roots from direct contact with fertilizers. After two years of “holidays”, it does not hurt to carry out regular top dressing at least 2 times a year: in spring and throughout the summer.
Pruning hydrangeas in spring is the highlight of care
Pruning panicled hydrangea in the spring, like other varieties, stimulates the growth and flowering of shrubs very well. Moreover, without pruning, this plant feels very bad, stops developing and may not bloom at all. Shortening should be carried out in the spring. To begin with, get rid of frozen shoots by cutting them to healthy wood, which, by the way, does not interfere with flowering at all. Completely weak and thickening branches are removed, annual strong shoots are shortened to 3-5 buds.
Autumn pruning - what you need to know about preparing for winter?
In autumn, the remaining inflorescences are cut off, because thanks to them, snow will accumulate in excess on the bushes, under the weight of which fragile branches can not only bend, but also break off. For old bushes, it is relevant, during which perennial wood is removed. Already in the second year, most shrubs are restored, continuing to delight everyone with abundant flowering, with which they will fit into any landscape design.
The structure and fertile properties of garden soil, which for the well-being of hydrangeas must always be moderately moist and without excess calcium, can be improved if necessary. For this purpose, red riding peat, or well decomposed, is added to it. And also when planting hydrangeas should always be made in heavy garden soil a small amount of coarse sand.
The development of the hydrangea bush is also very well affected (peat, needles, a layer of compost, etc.) around the plant.
Tips for lovers of panicled hydrangeas from Zinaida Luneva
Perhaps not a single agronomist or experienced amateur has paid as much attention in his writings to growing hydrangeas in the garden as Zinaida Sergeevna Luneva, a veteran of Russian dendrology, candidate of agricultural sciences (Moscow). She gave gardeners a lot of valuable advice on growing her favorite -.
Ha photo: inflorescence of white hydrangea paniculata
“This breed prefers clayey structural soil. Panicle hydrangea also grows on red earth soils, but does not like sandy soils. In open places, its growth slows down, and the inflorescences become smaller.
Garden soil when planting hydrangea seedlings must be filled with mineral and organic fertilizers(doses are about the same as for peonies).
If you want to immediately have a great decorative effect, then it is advisable to purchase a large 4-5-year-old hydrangea seedling. The pit for its landing is prepared in such dimensions: 50-70 cm wide, 35-40 cm deep.
The main reasons for failure when growing hydrangeas
Failures in growing hydrangeas in the garden are most often associated with an unfavorable soil reaction for this plant. After all, hydrangeas need acidic soil (with a pH of 5.1-5.5). If in your area this indicator reaches only 6.0-7.0, then it should be slightly lowered. You can use acidic high-moor peat, coniferous litter or bark for this, as well as some fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate, potassium chloride), which slightly acidify the soil.
With an alkaline reaction (pH 8.0-9.0), that is, an excessive content of lime in the soil, the hydrangea suffers from a lack of iron. It causes hydrangeas. In this case, experts advise shedding the substrate with a weak acidifying solution, feeding the hydrangea bushes iron vitriol(5-6 g per 10 l).
For successful cultivation hydrangeas in the garden are not suitable for manure-humus soil and hard irrigation water. There are five commandments to be observed:
1. Hydrangea, or hydrangea is very moisture-loving, which is easy to learn (literal translation from the Latin name “hydrangea” means “vessel with water”).
2. Hydrangea is a plant of acidic soils (pH about 5.0). The high content of lime in the soil is categorically contraindicated for this plant. Somewhat less than other species suffer in such cases, but its "peacefulness" should not be abused in the hope of getting good flowering.
3. Rich, fertile, fresh, suitable land and regular feeding of hydrangeas is the key to success.
4. In hydrangea species that bloom on the shoots of the current year, the bushes are pruned only when there is no vegetation.
5. In regions with hot summers, the location for moisture-loving hydrangea is preferably semi-shady. Only some types of hydrangeas bloom better in the sun, but under conditions of regular and enhanced watering in the heat and.
Tagir Kilmakaev (FSEI VPO Ural State Agricultural Academy, Yekaterinburg)
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Hydrangea, planting and care - are of no small importance when growing, since an unsuccessfully chosen place and soil composition of the soil can lead to illness and poor development, in some cases death. In addition, you need to properly care for the shrub after planting in order to achieve lush flowering and healthy growth ...
Site selection and soil preparation
When to plant hydrangea? The best time for planting is spring, the moment when the ground thaws, the buds have not yet blossomed, and autumn - in the month of September. When choosing a place for a decorative leafy plant, keep in mind that it is better to plant a hydrangea in the shade or partial shade, as the bright sun causes slow growth, as a result of which the inflorescences become smaller.
Some types of hydrangea can be grown in open sunny areas, but this requires abundant watering. It is desirable to protect young shrubs from the bright sun and high winds. It is not recommended to place under trees that absorb water heavily.
The soil for hydrangeas should be well-drained and moist, consist of a balanced mixture of humus, leafy soil, peat chips, river sand(2:2:1:1). Regardless of the type and variety of hydrangea, remember that lime in the soil adversely affects development. The soil should be with a Ph level of approximately 5.0.
Planting hydrangeas in open ground
In the northern regions of the country, it is preferable to plant hydrangeas in open ground in spring, in southern regions, including in the Kuban, the procedure is carried out in the fall. It is recommended to equip a landing pit for beautiful bush, whose dimensions are 0.4 m in diameter and 0.4-0.5 m deep. When planting, be guided by the size of the root system, if it is too large, increase the volume of the hole. It is worth noting that the roots of hydrangea are quite branched.
choosing a place and planting a hydrangea with a closed root system - in the photo
It is necessary to bring the prepared soil mixture into the pit and make a small mound, on which the seedling is then carefully placed and the roots are straightened, they fall asleep without deepening the root neck, which should be flush with the soil. A slight penetration is acceptable, but not more than 20-30 mm; a too deep landing can subsequently lead to neck decay.
The soil in the near-trunk zone must be well compacted. Watering the hydrangea after planting is mandatory, it is necessary that the water seeps well to a depth of 30-40 cm. Watering is best done in the hole next to the plant.
Top dressing and mulching as the basis of care
To retain moisture after planting in a permanent place, the hydrangea is mulched in the trunk circle. Mulch also keeps weeds from growing and protects the roots from overheating. As a mulching material, peat chips, wood chips or bark are used, having a uniform layer of 8-10 cm.
Mulch will decompose over time and become part of the soil, slightly acidifying it. Mulching is best done in late spring, when the ground is warm but still damp.
watering hydrangeas - pictured
In order for the shrub to grow well and please with abundant flowering, garden hydrangeas are fed when planting, then in the spring in the third decade of May or in early summer - the first days of June. Use a solution of mullein or chicken manure diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. Do not forget to fertilize with a complex of mineral fertilizers or add at least the most basic components - 20 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium nitrate and urea. Subsequent feeding of hydrangeas is carried out with an interval of 17-20 days and ends at the end of July, so that the young shoots have time to lignify by the winter.
For strong and flexible shoots, ornamental shrubs are watered with a weak potassium permanganate solution. color pink. In addition, garden stores sell special fertilizers for hydrangeas, which include magnesium and iron, which are necessary for the plant.
mulching hydrangeas with wood chips - pictured
Paniculata hydrangea, large-leaved and ground cover predominantly have pinkish, creamy colors that can be changed if desired. The color of the hydrangea is directly determined by the acidity of the soil. If the soil is slightly alkaline, then the flowering will be pink and raspberry in color; on acidic soils, the hydrangea blooms with blue flowers.
To obtain blue flowers in alkaline soil, the shrub is watered with solutions of iron salts. To get a more intense blue color under the hydrangea, rusty metal cans should be buried.
Hydrangea pruning - continue to care
Do I need to prune hydrangea and how to do it? In order for the care to be correct, it must be remembered that the pruning of large-leaved, serrate, prickly, Sargent, liana-shaped, oak-leaved hydrangeas is carried out taking into account the fact that flowers appear on the shoots of the second year, which means that you need to cut old branches and weak ones, to strong buds.
Pruning paniculate and tree hydrangeas involves removing old and faded shoots, which are also weak. Wherein, experienced gardeners it is not recommended to remove a large number of shoots at the same time, it is better to stretch the procedure for a year or two so that the plant does not lose strength and does not die from excessive cutting operations. The main branches, as a rule, do not touch, cut only those that are bad and grow inside the bush.
autumn pruning hydrangeas - pictured
You can cut the hydrangea in spring and autumn, but it is preferable in the autumn, as the sap flow slows down, and the haircut will help lush flowering in the spring. In the spring months, improper pruning can slow growth and delay flowering. In addition, in the spring, processes begin to actively start at the shrub, juice is released during pruning, so be careful not to harm the plant. In spring, pruning is best done as early as possible, before the buds swell and constant heat is established.
Hydrangea pruning for the winter is carried out as usual, with only one difference - it is better not to touch young shrubs and let them winter without surgical intervention, otherwise you risk ruining the plant. Hydrangea, planting and caring for which is not at all complicated, will surely delight you with its lush flowering if you suddenly decide to grow an unpretentious plant in your garden.
Gotensias: related photos
We describe the planting and care of hydrangeas in spring and autumn (tree-like, large-leaved (garden), paniculate and petiolate). Consider the place, soil, planting rules and step by step instructions, as well as watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter (Moscow region, North-West, Urals, Siberia and southern regions).
Planting hydrangeas in open ground: place, soil, distance and depth
The plant is heat-loving, fast-growing and needs fertile soil and sufficient moisture.
We describe planting in open ground for any type of hydrangea: oak-leaved, large-leaved (garden), paniculate, serrated, tree-like, petiolate, Sargent and others.
Landing place
Hydrangea (all types) is a light-loving plant, it grows well in sunny and open space but bright sun and strong wind must be avoided. Therefore, at the peak of the heat, light shading is necessary, she loves diffused light very much.
At the same time, the shrub is able to grow well in light penumbra, in this case it blooms later with fewer flowers. The presence of sunlight in the morning, in the first half of the day is very important. Therefore, the east side is better suited than the west.
Soil and acidity
Hydrangea grows well on fertile, humus-rich clay soils. It develops worse on red soils, and sandy soils are contraindicated.
The optimum level of acidity is pH 5.2-6.0 (slightly acidic soil). The maximum brightness of the inflorescences is observed precisely on acidic soil, and on neutral soil, slow development and pale color.
Alkaline soil leads to chlorosis (yellowing of leaves). With the growth of a bush on alkaline soil, there is often a lack of iron and magnesium, which is manifested by a light and pale color of the leaves.
Therefore, acidify the soil or treat the bush with an iron chelate. In past centuries, gardeners buried iron objects (nails, a can, a horseshoe).
When planting, a special balanced soil mixture with fertilizers is prepared.
soil mixture
Compound: humus, turf land, leaf land and peat - equal parts or humus, garden soil (chernozem), peat and sand - 2: 2: 1: 1. As well as nutrients: 20-25 grams (table + teaspoon) of carbamide (urea), 24-29 grams of potassium sulfate (two tablespoons) and 60-70 grams of superphosphate (150-250 grams of bone meal).
If spruces and pines grow nearby, then under them you can dig up light, loose and slightly acidic soil. Some gardeners successfully grow flowers in such soil, even without fertilizing when planting.
A complete ban - lime, chalk and wood ash.
landing distance
Large-leaved - 120-160 cm, and paniculate 140-240 cm between bushes, and from the nearest large shrubs and trees - 230-300 cm. If you want to plant hydrangea in a row (hedge, "mixborder"), then you can dig a trench wide 90-110 cm.
If you want to get more early flowering, then when landing, dig holes closer friend to a friend (70-80 cm), and after 2-3 years thin out the bushes if necessary.
landing pit
Depth - 36-45, width - 51-65 cm. The roots grow mainly in breadth, extending much further than the crown.
planting depth
The root neck should be at the level of the soil, a maximum of 2-3 cm below, otherwise the flower will develop poorly.
Step-by-step instructions for planting hydrangeas
- Dig a hole of the desired size 15-30 days before planting.
- Prepare the potting mix and backfill the planting hole.
- Dig a hole and place the seedling on the cone of the soil mixture at the desired depth and straighten the roots. Gradually backfill the hole and compact the soil.
- Water the bush with 8-12 liters of water and sprinkle with bark, sawdust or peat - 6-8 cm thick and 16-20 cm in diameter.
- Cover the flower from direct sunlight during the day and strong winds.
When is the best time to plant hydrangea? Spring or autumn?
Best planting time: spring - early May and autumn - September. At the same time, the most favorable period to plant hydrangea in a cold climate is only spring, and in more southern regions it can be planted in spring and autumn.
Hydrangea care after planting
Preparing for flowering
For the first two years, cut off the inflorescences at the bud stage (“pea”). And then the plant will direct all its efforts to the development of the root system and the aerial part, which will ensure better flowering in subsequent years.
- Watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter - see the relevant sections.
Caring for garden hydrangea: the secrets of growing
Flower care consists of watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter. Spring is the best time to mulch trunk circle for more moisture retention. Scatter sawdust, peat, needles or wood chips in a 7-8 cm layer, with a diameter of 24-30 cm.
top dressing
When planting hydrangeas in a soil mixture with fertilizers, you can not feed them for the first two years. General rule fertilizing until July acidic fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate), and from July to October potassium-phosphorus (bone meal, superphosphate).
The plant's need for nutrients ah high as it grows quickly and blooms powerfully.
- Comprehensive nutrition for growth. In early - mid-May, feed with complex mineral fertilizer - 25-35 grams per 10 liters of water. Or separately a tablespoon (15 g) of urea + 25-30 g of superphosphate (2 tablespoons) and a tablespoon (15 g) of potassium sulfate.
Mineral fertilizers can be supplemented with organic: infusion of mullein or bird droppings - 1:10. Repeat top dressing after 13-16 days. - Potassium-phosphorus top dressing for flowering. 12-16 days before flowering (beginning - mid-June), liquid top dressing is carried out: dissolve 65-75 g of superphosphate and 41-49 g of potassium sulfate in water and water the bush.
- During flowering. Repeat the previous top dressing at the time of mass flowering to prolong it and ensure the laying of new flower buds.
- For top dressing, it is not recommended to use wood ash. Fertilizers are well suited for heather species and rhododendron.
- Do not allow an excess of nitrogen, which leads to a decrease in winter hardiness, deterioration of flowering and promotes the development of rot. Apply only in April-May.
- Important! An overabundance of fertilizers, especially organic ones (mullein, droppings) will do more harm than a lack.
Watering hydrangeas
The flower is moisture-loving and needs regular watering. Drought is contraindicated, the lack of sufficient moisture leads to impaired development.
In dry and hot weather, water every 7-8 days with 15-20 liters of water. The usual schedule is every 13-16 days 15-25 liters of water, and if it is rainy in summer, then 4-5 times per season.
The lack of moisture in autumn reduces the winter hardiness of the plant, so if there is little rain in autumn, then additional watering is required.
Periodically add 2-3 grams of potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation to prevent the development of rot. Soft water is best for irrigation.
It is better to water in the morning or in the evening in the near-stem circle, when there is no scorching sun. After each watering, it is desirable to loosen the soil 5-6 cm deep around the plant.
Proper hydrangea pruning: spring and autumn
All species tolerate pruning well and need it, but each has its own characteristics. Pruning in the spring can be carried out only from 3-4 years of age. The most common types of hydrangeas in Russian gardens divided according to the type of trimming into two groups.
Group No. 1 (large-leaved hydrangea (garden), prickly, serrate, oak-leaved, Sargent and petiolate)
These species bloom on last year's shoots and need sanitary and cosmetic pruning. The optimal pruning time is that as soon as the buds swell a little, there is no active movement of juices, plus such cut shoots can be rooted. Let's talk about the example of garden hydrangea.
Large-leaved hydrangea (macrophila) cannot be cut, but can only be rejuvenated. Every spring, cut every fourth branch older than 3 years, especially growing inward, so that the bush does not thicken, as well as dead, weak (thin) or broken stems under the root. Such pruning, in addition to giving a more decorative shape, improves flowering.
Spring pruning of garden hydrangea (large-leaved)
Exception: modern varieties from the series "Forever and ever", "You & Me", as well as varieties "MiniPenny", which bloom on the shoot of the first and previous years. They are pruned depending on the condition of the plant and the past wintering.
- Petiole hydrangea is lightly pruned: long stems are shortened for better branching.
Group No. 2 (tree-like and paniculate)
These species that bloom on young shoots (current season) are pruned every year before bud break. Best moment: mid-end of March (as soon as the snow melts). Annual formative pruning is required, as if the flower thickens, the inflorescences will become smaller.
- Hydrangea arborescens wakes up first. Shoots are cut to 2-3 buds from the ground. On a powerful and mature bush, sometimes only one pair of buds is left. To form a decorative shape of the bush, weak and inward-growing shoots are pruned.
- Hydrangea paniculata needs more gentle pruning. Last year's shoots are shortened by a third.
Adviсe
- To thin out the bush, completely remove old, weak and inward-growing shoots annually.
- Cut frozen stems to the first living bud.
Bush rejuvenation
It is easy to rejuvenate an old bush with the help of special pruning: cut all shoots at a height of 5-7 cm from the ground level (“under the stump”) or to the level of perennial wood. Next spring, young shoots will begin to grow, and the decorative effect of the bush will be restored.
Should I prune hydrangeas for the winter?
In autumn, faded inflorescences are cut off from the hydrangea without fail so that the branches do not break under the weight of snow.
stamp form
Panicle hydrangea has the ability to grow in the form of a tree - a low stem. Choose one of the most developed shoots on a two-year-old plant grown from the apical cutting, and cut the rest. Then prune this shoot to the strongest bud each year in the spring until it reaches 100 cm in height.
To form a crown in the following years, pinch the top of the shoot, and remove new shoots completely. In the future, weak shoots are pruned annually and only 4-5 strongest branches are left for bushiness.
An example of a standard form of paniculate hydrangea
Hydrangea care in autumn and preparation for winter
After flowering, autumn care for hydrangeas consists in removing faded inflorescences and preparing for winter.
- Tree-like hydrangea for the winter can not be covered, mulching is enough - it has high winter hardiness.
- In the conditions of the Middle Strip, the Moscow Region, the North-West, the Urals and Siberia, be sure to cover the hydrangea for the winter, and it is better to dig out the large-leaved hydrangea, transplant it into pots and bring it into the house.
Insofar as this species can be grown in areas where the temperature in winter is not lower than -23.5 ° C. The exception is some modern winter-hardy varieties, mentioned in the section - "cropping". - In more southern and warmer regions, hilling and mulching can be dispensed with.
Preparing for winter and sheltering hydrangeas
Inflorescences appear on last year's shoots (large-leaved hydrangea), and the goal is to completely preserve them from frost and decay.
Because leaves and flowers large-leaved hydrangea perish from small frosts at night, preparation for winter begins in the middle - end of October (after the first frosts).
- Hydrangea garden paniculata and large-leaved must be covered for the winter.
- To do this, a bush is spudded with earth, and the trunk circle is mulched with rotted manure, needles or peat.
- Then the stems are bent to the soil and covered with sawdust, spruce branches or dry leaves. And on top of the bush put a box (box).
- After the end of spring frosts (April), the winter shelter is dismantled and pruned.
- It is better to carefully tie a large bush and make a frame shelter (“hut”) above it by 8-12 cm and pour dry foliage inside it.
Preparing hydrangeas for winter 
Hydrangea shelter for the winter 
The top layer of winter shelter for hydrangeas
In case of short-term frosts, it is convenient to cover with lutrasil, white burlap or a double layer of film.
Shelter of a large-leaved hydrangea for the winter from a gardener from the Moscow region
- In autumn, before the arrival of night frosts, cut off all the leaves from the bush. If you leave them, then the flower will begin to rot. Leave only the flower buds at the tips of the branches, with a maximum of two leaves protecting them.
- Tie all the branches on the bush, 3-4 pieces of approximately the same size, into separate bundles with elastic material (elastic band, tights, strips of fabric).
- Bend the bundles as low as possible to the soil and secure metal staples(electrodes, thick wire). Bend the hydrangea to the ground carefully so as not to damage the shoots. In some varieties, they are very lignified and it is better to bend them down gradually, starting with a slight slope.
- Before the onset of cold weather (mid-November), cover the hydrangea with any non-woven material (burlap, agrofibre).
- Before the onset of severe frosts, remove the shelter and cover the flower with dry peat, compost or leafy soil. The base of the bush is less afraid of frost than the fragile tips of the shoots, so it is sprinkled quite a bit.
- Put arcs over the plant and stretch the covering material again, and put a piece of film on top so that the ends remain open and there is no high humidity inside the winter shelter.
Shelter for the winter of a young hydrangea
Young seedlings are not pruned, but simply brought into the house in pots for the winter or spudded with earth and additionally covered for the winter with a layer of peat, dry foliage, needles or sawdust.
When can I open hydrangea after winter?
In the spring, you need to remove the winter shelter from the hydrangea at the right time to prevent the shoots from drying out.
- In mid-March, remove the film and covering material, rake the peat or earth and cover again with burlap.
- In early April, when the night frosts end and stable heat sets in, remove the cover from the large-leaved hydrangea completely.
Approximate terms for the Moscow region are indicated.
Winter hardiness of hydrangea
Now large-leaved hydrangea is increasingly grown in the conditions of central Russia and in the Moscow region, in the Urals and Siberia. However, not all winter-hardy varieties are able to bloom in any area due to different microclimates.
The plant withstands up to -23 ° C, and the most winter-hardy are tree-like, paniculate and ground cover hydrangeas.
The winter hardiness of the plant increases if it received enough water in the fall, as well as potassium-phosphorus top dressing.
Diseases and pests
Hydrangea is very resistant to diseases and pests, but sometimes everything affects it. powdery mildew, spider mites and aphids (often indoors).
- HOW TO FIGHT POWDER DEW? INSTRUCTIONS, PRODUCTS AND FUNGICIDES.
- HOW TO FIGHT APHIDS? FIGHT RULES AND THE BEST DRUGS!
Why is the hydrangea not blooming in the garden? What to do?
We list the most common reasons for the lack of flowering.
- Deficiency or excess of nutrients, especially nitrogen. With excessive feeding, especially with organic fertilizers, flowering is very difficult to achieve. Apply nitrogen only during the active growing season (April - May).
- Improper pruning or winterization. The plant blooms on last year's shoots (upper buds). They often suffer from winter cold and are sometimes removed when over-pruned. If you have a large-leaved hydrangea, then read how to cut it correctly - the “Pruning” section.
- Too much direct sunlight. Ambient light is ideal for hydrangea, but if it grows in a sunny place without shading in the midday heat, then flowering worsens and shortens.
How to speed up the flowering of hydrangeas?
To make the bush bloom faster, spray it as soon as the inflorescences are 2-4 cm in diameter twice with an interval of 5-7 days with gibberellins - 50 mg / liter of water. This treatment allows you to bloom 2-4 weeks earlier and get more massive and decorative flowering.
How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?
The flowers of the plant can change their color depending on the acidity of the soil, and the ability to accumulate aluminum.
Water the bush with a solution of potassium alum (100 g / 10 liters of water). To change the color, you need to carry out 3-4 waterings every 12-15 days. Therefore, they begin to water 50-70 days before flowering.
After that, white or pink flowers (slightly alkaline soil) will turn blue or blue, depending on the concentration. At the same time, alum reduces acidity, so you need to carefully use them. The price of 100 grams of alum is about 30-50 rubles.
- If you want to dry the hydrangea inflorescences for the winter, then cut them off immediately after the blooming of all the flowers. Tie in small bundles and hang down with flowers in a dark place to dry.
- Hydrangea can be grown at home as a pot culture. In autumn, she sheds her leaves, for the winter she is cut off and transferred to a cool place (+ 4-6), and in late February - early March they put her in a bright and warm place without direct sunlight. In summer, the flower can be taken out into the open air and left until September.
- Experts advise planting ground cover species in the trunk circle: stonecrop, saxifrage moss and others.
ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:
1. REPRODUCTION OF GARDEN HYDROANGIA: ALL WAYS!
2. TYPES AND BEST VARIETIES OF HYDENSIA WITH PHOTO AND NAMES!
We wish flowers to cheer you up and make you a little happier!
The garden blooms with unusual colors in spring, and this continues until autumn. This hydrangea blooms endless summer and gives pleasure with its appearance and aroma. Planting a garden hydrangea and caring for it in the open field will not require special knowledge and costs, because it grows and reproduces beautifully. And if you select varieties by color, size, combined with other plants, you will get a lot of pleasure for the whole summer. Hydrangea is recognized as the queen of the garden!
When to plant hydrangea: mastering the rules of planting
When choosing this flower as a backyard decoration, you will not need complex and time-consuming pruning procedures, greenhouse wisdom. The most important thing is to choose the right place for planting, water abundantly and fertilize on time. Hydrangea should be planted in open ground in a sunny and calm place. This flower does not like shaded places. Landing in open ground should take place in the month of May or September.
How to plant a hydrangea to get a lush bush
At the site of planting, hydrangeas dig a recess in the ground half a meter deep and about 60-70 cm in diameter. When planting and growing several bushes in the garden, a distance of about one and a half meters should be laid between them. The plant, if properly cared for, grows and occupies a decent area. The recesses are covered with a special compound consisting of 1 part sand, 1 part peat, 2 parts soil, 2 parts humus. Add fertilizer containing urea, potassium sulfide, superphosphate and humus.
It is important! Do not add lime to the mixture for feeding the roots of a flower - this will destroy a fragile plant.
When planting a bush, it is not necessary to deeply deepen the root neck - it should be slightly below the surface level. The plant requires abundant watering.
Beginners are often interested in what year the bush blooms after planting. We answer: with proper planting and care of the hydrangea, it will bloom the very next year. But in the first season, it is recommended to cut off the flowers so that the plant gains strength, grows and gets stronger for the next flowering.
How to care for hydrangeas in the garden
This is an easy care plant. The main activities are reduced to abundant watering, periodic loosening of the soil around the bush, weeding and fertilizing on schedule. If you mulch the bushes with sawdust or peat mixture when planting, then you will not have to water often. Peat and sawdust retain moisture for a long time, which is sufficient for the development of a closed root system.
Perennial shrub requires competent pruning. Prune it before the start of the growing season. Pruning hydrangeas in the garden is necessary to get rid of old shoots, leaving young and vigorous ones. Fresh shoots need only be shortened to 4-5 buds. Withered inflorescences periodically remove. Bushes planted on the site 5-7 years ago should be cut to stumps, which will then give strength to new shoots.
How to plant a hydrangea: mastering top dressing and fertilizers
Planting hydrangeas in fertilizer-rich soil will allow the first 2 years not to worry about fertilizing and top dressing.
Then the rules for planting and caring for hydrangeas in the open field suggest the following:
- in the middle of spring, phosphorus-potassium and nitrogen-containing fertilizers are required at the base of each bush;
- it is necessary to feed with potassium sulfate and superphosphate for the second time in the season during the swelling of the buds;
- over the summer, this honey plant is fed several more times with a solution of cow chicken manure.
It is important! An excess of nitrogen in root feeding can affect the color of the inflorescences to a pale green tint.
About methods of reproduction
Along with other shrubby perennials, this miracle shrub propagates vegetatively using cuttings, rhizome division, rooting of cuttings and sowing seeds.
When propagated by cuttings in the middle of summer, young shoots not yet covered with bark are cut off and rooted in a special turf. The composition of the soil includes coarse sand and peat. It is advisable to add crumbled mossy sphagnum to the soil for greater looseness and moisture retention. Planted cuttings with a slight slope every 5-6 cm and strictly monitor the temperature (+ 17 + 20C) and humidity. After a month and a half, shoots with roots are planted in the chosen place for planting and provide all of the above care activities.
When dividing a bush, it is important that young shoots have 3-4 buds. The rhizome is carefully divided, and the shoots are planted in a place prepared in the garden.
Hydrangea propagates in the garden with the help of layering: young shoots from a common bush are pressed to the ground in a place where a hole was dug in advance (up to 20 cm), and added dropwise. For a tighter connection, the elastic shoot is sometimes fixed with staples. To speed up the process of root formation, it is recommended to cut the shoot slightly in the area where it will be buried. The new formation needs abundant watering. As the roots develop, the connecting link is cut, and the young bush is planted in the place allotted to it.
About possible diseases and pests
The plant is resistant to diseases and pests. But it is also susceptible to infection. Downy mildew, chlorosis, appearance spider mite and leaf aphid- these are the most common ailments of garden hydrangea.
Have the leaves lost their natural color, become lighter? This is chlorosis, which develops due to an excess of lime or humus in the ground. Add potassium nitrate, copper sulfate to the watering, and alternate these two solutions after two days on the third.
Downy mildew appears if the air humidity is high. Processing the leaves of the plant with copper sulphate with the addition of laundry soap will help get rid of the disease.
Garlic tincture is not capable of overcoming the army of aphids. It is prepared as follows: garlic (200 gr.) Is crushed and infused in a bucket of water for 2 days, then added laundry soap(40 gr.). This solution is sprayed onto the bushes once a week until the pests are completely destroyed.
Varietal and species classification
The plant is rightfully considered the favorite of all other summer cottages. garden flowers. A long flowering period of 4 months until October, various shades and shapes of inflorescences create an excellent image for this plant and make it desirable for owners of country houses, summer cottages, designers who successfully use the advantages of shrubs in creating landscapes.
The flowers are shaped like balls or tassels, the petals are white, lilac, red, pale pink and even two-tone. The most popular in the Moscow region, and throughout the country, is a tree-like form. This bush is unpretentious, easy to care for and propagate, it is recommended for breeding even for beginners. Up to 30 varieties of this flower are known. But the most popular among land owners are varieties:
- "Anabel" is a bush with a lush color, reaching a height of up to 1.5 m. Its snow-white spherical inflorescences bloom from the beginning of summer and bloom until September. Stays green until winter. Adapted to the conditions of our winters, does not require insulation.
- "Grandiflora" has large snow-white flowers, flowering period from June to October.
- Sterilis, with its hemispheres of pale green and white from mid-summer to October, cannot fail to please homeowners with lush color and aroma.
- "BellaAnna" is a novelty among other varieties. The flowers are in the form of balls, hydrangea bushes in the garden grow up to 3 m in diameter. It happens with pale pink and purple flowers, the flowering period is until October.
- "Invincibel Spirit" is attractive with a delicate pinkish tint of petals.
Paniculate and tree-like hydrangeas are very popular. They have flowers original form, bloom for a long period, can change color. The plant is frost-resistant and endures even the most severe winters in the north of the country. These include varieties:
- "Vanilla Fraise", which has delicate white-pinkish petals;
- "Limelight" blooms only in autumn, the flowers are large, delicate lemon shade;
- 'PinkyWinky' is attractive with pale red petals.
Hydrangea in landscape design projects
Excellent compositions are built modern designers using various forms and colours. Considering the climatic conditions of the territory of Russia, professionals advise choosing varieties of tree-like, paniculate and petiolate hydrangeas for planting.
Experts do not advise using flowers in compositions with yellowish, red, orange hues. Plants blooming in pale blue, conifers, leaves, cereal family, juniper, clematis will successfully highlight the advantages of bushes.
This plant is deservedly recognized as the basis beautiful garden. With good care and cultivation, the hydrangea will be a treat for the eyes for many years.
Garden hydrangea planting and care have their own characteristics. To admire the beautiful and lush flowering, we will learn how to properly care for this plant.
Garden hydrangea - types and varieties
There are many types and varieties of this ornamental shrub. Most of them prefer to grow in partial shade, but there are those that do well in sunny areas. The height of the bushes and the flowering period are very different and depend on the variety.
The most common types:
- large-leaved. It blooms in the second half of summer with lush inflorescences in the form of balls. Flowers may have different shade. Height - 2 m. Requires shelter in winter, tolerates temperatures up to -10°C
- Chereshkovaya. Liana variety. It blooms with white-pink inflorescences. Requires support, otherwise it will spread along the ground. A good option for arbors and arches.
- Treelike. Flowers are snow white. Height - up to 3 m. It looks very impressive, but it freezes in winter. The advantage is that the plant recovers quickly. Requires heavy spring pruning.
- Paniculata. It blooms from July to late autumn with dense panicles 30 cm long. The shade of the inflorescences varies from white to greenish. Bush height - 3-4 m. Unpretentious and frost-resistant variety.
Based on these species, many different varieties have been created, each of which is beautiful in its own way. Depending on the type of hydrangea, they can be deciduous or evergreen, but in our area they are most often grown in the first version.
Growing features
Interestingly, the shade of the inflorescences can be adjusted independently by adding certain fertilizers to the soil. On neutral soil, the flowers will have a beige or cream hue. Soil with a high alkali content gives the flowers a pink or lilac color, acids - blue.
Bright lighting is very important for a shrub, but the scorching sun's rays are detrimental to it, as well as a deep shadow. Therefore, it is best to plant a flower where there is shade at lunchtime, and the rest of the time - the sun.
It is important not to overfeed seedlings with organic matter. They will grow green mass, but are unlikely to bloom.
Landing in open ground
Hydrangea is a demanding flower. Therefore, before landing, you need to think carefully about all the nuances.
Site and soil preparation
The landing site must be prepared in advance - about 2 weeks in advance. The soil should be acidic and well-drained. Acidity can be adjusted independently with the help of special preparations. Depending on the variety, flowers can grow in partial shade or full sun. The best place for planting - light penumbra, plants will not bloom in strong shade.
The hole should be small: 40 cm deep and 40 cm wide. If a group planting is planned, then the distance between the bushes should be at least 90-100 cm. Sand and fertilizers are added to the pit, mixing well with the ground. The next layer is poured a little peat.
How and when to plant?
Landing is carried out in early spring or in autumn. It depends on the climate of each region. In cold areas, it is better to plant bushes in the spring so that they can give new roots, get stronger and be able to survive the harsh winter. In warmer regions, planting can be done in the fall. If planting is done in the spring, then annual shoots must be shortened by at least 3 kidneys.
In a seedling, it is desirable to slightly shorten the roots. When planting, you need to make sure that the root neck is not covered with earth. The planted bush is abundantly watered and mulched with peat. When watering, make sure that a strong stream of water does not wash away the soil near the roots.
As soon as new leaves appear on the plant, this indicates that the process of forming new roots is in full swing.
phantom hydrangea care
Hydrangea Phantom is one of the most beautiful of the paniculate family. It blooms profusely throughout the season with long panicles and exudes a pleasant aroma. The variety is resistant to root diseases and frost, quickly recovers after freezing. The bush can grow in one place for many years without requiring a transplant.
Watering and feeding
"Hydrangea" in Latin means "yearning for water." The flower is very moisture-loving, so in no case should the soil dry out. Watering should be regular and plentiful. As soon as the topsoil dries out a little, the plant needs to be watered again. If the ground around the bush is mulched with peat, you can water less often, as the soil does not dry out so quickly. In the first years, 7-8 liters of water are poured under each seedling, in subsequent years - at least 18 liters.
Watering is the best time to feed. In early spring, the plant needs nitrogen fertilizer, during the budding period - potassium and phosphorus.
It is useful to water the bushes with acidified water once every 2 weeks. For 10 liters of water you need to take 1 tbsp. l. citric acid. The solution is poured directly under the roots. In addition, in the spring and summer, once every 3-4 weeks, you need to loosen the ground to improve aeration.
How to transplant and prune?
The plant tolerates pruning well. If it is not cut, the bush will lose its decorative effect, and flowering will be weak. It is best to do this procedure in the spring, when the buds swell. If the bushes are too old, they can be easily updated by cutting them almost to the root.
All types of hydrangeas can be divided into two groups:
- To the first category includes those species and varieties whose flowers are formed on the shoots of the previous year (petiolate, prickly, large-leaved, serrated). They do not need special pruning, it is enough to remove old, dried and improperly growing branches.
- To the second category includes species that form flowers on the shoots of the current year (paniculate and tree-like). These bushes require heavy pruning, all shoots should be shortened in early spring to 2-3 pairs of buds.
When the hydrangea is about to bloom for the first time, you need to immediately cut off all the buds so that the plant gains strength and can bloom profusely next year. Formative pruning of the bush for 5 years will help to get a beautiful little tree.
Phantom hydrangea should be transplanted only in extreme cases. It grows well in the same place for years. Therefore, a transplant is justified if an adult bush needs to be divided into parts and planted in other places.
Flower care in autumn
Hydrangea Care garden autumn consists in pruning inflorescences, while removing at least 3 buds from the top of the shoot. This must be done so that suddenly falling wet snow does not freeze on them and break fragile branches. The base of the bushes should be high up, and the ground around them should be well mulched. This will protect the surface root system from frost.
How does hydrangea winter?
In the conditions of the middle zone, the shrub tolerates winter well. But for safety, it is still better to cover it with spruce branches. In the northern regions, the flower is removed for the winter in a room with a positive temperature, since very coldy can destroy him.
Sometimes the bushes are neatly tied, wrapped with spunbond and a mesh frame is built near them. The space between the covering material and the mesh is filled with dry foliage. With the first breath of heat, the leaves are removed, but the spunbond is removed only after a constant positive temperature is established.
How does garden hydrangea reproduce?
The easiest way to propagate hydrangea cuttings. They are cut in spring from annual green shoots. Cut at a right angle. The length of the cuttings is no more than 12 cm. Leaves are removed from the lower part, treated with preparations to stimulate growth and planted in a greenhouse or boxes.
A good option is to propagate the flower by division. This can be done both in spring and autumn. The bush is carefully dug up and divided into 3-4 parts, so that each has several renewal buds. Blanks are planted in pre-marked places.
Also without special efforts Hydrangeas can be propagated by layering. Young shoots are carefully bent to the ground, fixed and dug in with earth, leaving the top (about 20 cm). Already next spring or autumn, layering with roots can be separated from the mother plant and transplanted.
Sometimes the shrub is propagated by seeds or grafting, but these are too time-consuming methods. Knowing how garden hydrangea breeds, you can choose the appropriate method in advance and do it in a timely manner.
Protection against diseases and pests
Hydrangeas rarely get sick, while the lion's share of the disease is transferred with seedlings. For this reason, you need to buy new plants only in proven nurseries. Other causes of disease are overcrowded plantings, lack of nutrients and high humidity air.
Many fungal diseases can be combated with copper oxychloride.
One of the most common diseases is chlorosis. Due to the lack of iron, the leaves turn yellow, while the veins remain green. For treatment, drugs Agricol, Brexil are used. As a preventive measure, plants need to be fed with iron-containing fertilizers in a timely manner.
Use in landscape design
Hydrangea looks great both in single plantings and in group. You just need to design in advance its location at a decent distance from other plants. Over time, the bushes grow strongly, and they need a lot of space.
A flower can be planted as a soloist in the front garden if it is located with north side Houses. When choosing companion hydrangeas in a mixborder, you need to take into account their features. Similar requirements for moisture, lighting and soil acidity in astilba, hosta, cuff. If the plot is large, you can plant a composition of several bushes. Their sprawling shape will create an expressive accent in the garden. Often these shrubs are used to limit garden areas.
Hydrangeas go well with different styles garden design, so everyone can grow them.
Garden is called large-leaved hydrangea. This is the most common species, although many flower growers do not dare to grow it in the gardens of the middle lane. The reasons for this attitude to garden hydrangea are:
In addition, autumn and spring frosts sometimes damage flower buds, and then hydrangeas do not bloom.
Although it should be noted that most indoor hydrangeas do well in cold winters.
AT last years frost-resistant varieties appeared that can withstand temperatures down to -35 degrees.
Large-leaved hydrangea loves acidic soils. Take a closer look at which plants grow on your site with pleasure, and you will determine the degree of acidity of the fertile layer: pine, spruce, horsetail, strawberries, caustic buttercup, sorrel and sorrel will indicate acidic soil.
This plant with luxurious pyramidal inflorescences is the most unpretentious plant among its sisters.
She feels great in open sunny places, but agrees to grow with little shading, as long as there is no wind.
It is not particularly demanding on soils either: it grows on sandy, well-moistened soils and on clay soils (but subject to the organization of high-quality drainage).
Hydrangea paniculata is not very demanding on soil acidity. Only excessively alkaline oppress her.
Planting hydrangeas
If you got a seedling in late autumn, then it will have to winter at home:
- small - on a window with good natural light;
- large - in a non-freezing cellar.
Best time to plant hydrangeas early spring. The planting hole is prepared 2-3 weeks before planting.
Before you start landing, you need to do the following steps:
- Slightly shorten the roots.
- Trim annual shoots, leaving 3-4 pairs of buds.
- If possible, add one part of peat mixed with rotted softwood litter and one part of rotted compost to the planting hole. The first mixture will give the soil airiness and acidify it, and thanks to the compost, the plant will receive nutrients.
- Water the planted plant thoroughly.
- Mulch the soil around the plant with compost. It is advisable to add to it coniferous litter, pieces of pine bark, rotted cones.
Experienced flower growers assure that with good organization of watering, hydrangeas grow anywhere. But they bloom longer in partial shade: these wonderful flowers do not like either the bright sun or thick shade. In addition, the location of the plants must be protected from the wind: the shoots of hydrangeas are fragile, and the inflorescences are heavy.
Preparing plants for winter
There are many agricultural practices that help increase the frost resistance of hydrangeas:
- the soil under the plant should be loose: this contributes to its faster thawing in the spring;
- before wintering, it is necessary to nourish the hydrangea well with water;
- in autumn, it is necessary to apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
Hydrangea paniculata does not require winter shelter. A large-leaved must be securely covered for the winter. How it's done?
But the most important thing is right choice varieties for the area.
Proper care of hydrangeas
Monthly watering with a weak solution of potassium permanganate brings great benefit to the plant: this procedure has a strengthening effect on the hydrangea.
Watering slurry will also benefit your pet.
In spring and early summer, acidic fertilizers (potassium sulfate, ammonium sulfate) should be applied under the bush. But at the end of summer and autumn, hydrangeas will need phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (superphosphate). Under one adult bush, 2-3 buckets of nutrient solution should be applied.
Many flower growers believe that large-leaved (garden) hydrangeas do not need to be cut at all. They remove only old, weakened and damaged branches. And they do it at any time. But to form a crown of this type, you must do the following:
- in the first year after planting in autumn, shorten the main growths, leaving one or two strong buds;
- carefully mulch with humus;
- in October-November, cut only the weakest or breaking symmetry, because during the growing season several powerful growths and many side branches on the main shoots are formed;
- in the second year, after flowering, cut off all generative shoots;
- in the third year (as well as all subsequent ones), immediately after the hydrangea has faded, remove all faded shoots to healthy growths located below and cut out all weak branches. If the bush is very thick, cut a quarter of all old shoots to the base.
Hydrangea paniculata can be cut in autumn, winter and spring. But you don't have to do it every year. During pruning, small, weak branches, as well as intersecting or rubbing ones, are removed. Strong branches are shortened to 25 cm.
The following year, shorten this shoot to the strongest bud.
Of the shoots that have grown in a year, leave only 2-3. The next year, cut off the shoots that have developed on them by 2-3 eyes. The formation of a tree will take you eight to ten years.
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