One of the favorite activities of any child is to make various crafts with their own hands or together with their parents.
Today we will look at crafts made from dried autumn leaves.
In order to have something to make a craft from, you first need to collect and dry a collection of autumn leaves.
A few recommendations:
1. It is better to choose leaves that are freshly fallen and, if possible, dry and clean.
2. Leaves come in handy from different trees... The most commonly used leaves are maple, oak, birch and mountain ash.
3. Assembled bouquet must be divided into separate pieces of paper. Lay the sheets between each other with sheets of paper (or put them in an old and not very the right book or magazine). Sometimes, through a sheet of paper or newspaper, the autumn leaves are ironed with an iron for faster drying.
4. Carefully stacked between sheets of paper autumn leaves must be placed under a heavy and flat press (such as a stack of books). Sometimes the leaves are placed in a box and sprinkled with layers of dry sand for better preservation. color shades, but this method will bring a lot of hassle to cleaning the room.
5. For the period of drying (usually from 1 week to 1 month), put everything to be dried together with the press away from the child's eyes (for example, in a closet) so that the child is not tempted to take out the leaves ahead of time.
From the leaves dried in this way, you can make a variety of crafts in the form of panels, applications and gift souvenirs (see drawings by Grushina L.V.). Their plot is limited only by your imagination.
For leaf applique you need:
1.cardboard or thick paper- (selected by color and texture, depending on the plot and mood),
2.PVA glue and glue stick,
3. tracing paper or thin paper - it is better to stick fragile and brittle leaves on them first and only then on cardboard!
4. scissors - they can cut leaves as needed,
5. pencil - for drawing a contour (it is easier to assemble an applique on it),
6.brush and paints - they will allow you to finish the missing elements (nose, tail, eyes, ears, mustache, etc.),
7. tweezers - it is convenient for them to select the exact position of the leaves and turn them over.
When modeling and making various crafts, it is often necessary to quickly and reliably glue cardboard parts or glue cardboard to other materials - fabric, wood, foam, cork, metal, etc.
Unlike thin paper, cardboard is a tougher and denser material, so ordinary office (silicate) glue cannot do this task, especially if it comes about gluing dimensional parts.
- PVA is a classic adhesive based on an aqueous dispersion of polyvinyl acetate. This composition is successfully used for gluing various porous materials - paper, cardboard, wood, fiberboard, MDF, fabric, etc. Today PVA remains the most popular glue in cardboard modeling.
Suitable for bonding almost all natural materials.
On sale you can find several varieties of this glue: stationery, household, universal and construction.
By choosing PVA glue for cardboard, we recommend paying attention to the universal PVA glue, the so-called PVA-MB. It is not as liquid as stationery, and not as rough as construction, which is used for gluing linoleum and carpet.
It is most profitable to buy universal PVA glue in building stores, where it is sold, as a rule, in large packages (500 gr, 1 kg, etc.). As for the shortcomings, there is only one PVA glue - after drying, the parts to be glued jar a little.
- Moment Joiner Express- modern adhesive from Henkel. Designed specifically for working with wood, plywood, veneer, fiberboard, MDF, cardboard and other natural materials.
Its composition resembles PVA glue, however, it is improved with special additives that improve the adhesion of the composition, make it more elastic when it dries. Glue corrugated cardboard this glue is very convenient, since the glue seam quickly sets, eliminating the slipping of the parts to be glued.
Moment Joiner Express after drying becomes colorless, which is important when modeling - the glue will not be noticeable in the seams between the parts to be glued.
- UHU Holzleim Express Modeling Adhesive- quick-setting glue for wood, has a surprisingly high adhesive power.
Specially designed by UHU specialists for modeling, housework, renovation wooden furniture etc. Designed for gluing any wood and wood-like materials in any combination.
Ideal for gluing cardboard and paper, also for gluing cardboard to cardboard.
Indispensable when fast setting of glued surfaces is required. After drying, it becomes transparent, resistant to moisture.
- Moment Universal Gel- modern waterproof and frost-resistant express glue in the form of a gel, thanks to which it does not spread or drip.
Retains elasticity after drying, does not warp or deform the parts to be glued.
Moment Universal Gel is widely used in modeling and creative work when it is necessary to quickly and reliably glue wood, ceramics, PVC, rubber, cork, fabrics and other materials.
Ideal for gluing paper, cardboard and corrugated board, incl. inclined surfaces and surfaces of a large area.
- "505" Universal second glue- a liquid transparent adhesive, similar in consistency to water. Designed for bonding metal, rubber, leather, ceramics, paper, cardboard, wood, plastic, etc.
Indispensable when instant fixation is required small parts from paper and cardboard when modeling.
Paper (cardboard) modeling is one of the most available species technical creativity, however, when working with cardboard and glue, certain nuances should be taken into account.
In particular, it is necessary to work extremely carefully with adhesives on water based, because when it dries, the water "pulls" the material, and the product begins to deform.
To prevent the paper from warping during drying, the glue should be applied in a thin, even layer to one of the surfaces to be glued. After that, the parts are connected and ironed so that no air bubbles form under them.
There is no need to try to assemble the model quickly, this should be done in stages, only after the frame has completely dried.
When working with Moment glue, precautions should be taken, since it is made on the basis of solvents. It is not recommended to inhale its vapors, as they are toxic; after bonding, the product should be left to dry in a ventilated room.
Carpentry is based on precise fitting and gluing of parts, and it is the last part that is responsible for the strength and durability of the product. There are quite a few varieties of joinery glues, and today we will talk about the difference between them and the rules for their use.
General classification of joinery adhesives
The modern assortment of adhesives for joinery includes more than a hundred items. Therefore, to begin with, let's briefly go over the types of glue, their properties and the most popular brands.
By origin, all types of glue can be divided into compositions natural origin and synthetic. In turn, natural adhesives can include binders of animal and plant origin, while synthetic ones are divided according to the method of production into condensation (formaldehyde) and polymerization (PVA, polyamide). The list of natural adhesives includes formulations based on casein, collagen and albumin, which chemical compositions include PVA, formaldehyde, PVC, epoxy, as well as most universal varieties glue. As you might guess, the most widespread are adhesives of natural origin, primarily due to their low cost and well-oiled production technology.
Wood is a material with high porosity, which means that almost any material can be used for gluing. adhesive composition... However, since most of joinery is used for domestic purposes; it is not customary to use adhesives based on volatile solvents for gluing them. This is the second advantage of natural glue - it provides sufficient strength despite the fact that it does not emit in environment no toxic substances.
However, for a number of products, it is required to provide resistance to different kinds external influences. Mostly the struggle is being carried out to increase moisture resistance, because most varieties of natural glue lose strength when wet. An increase in adhesion may also be required, mainly such a need arises when gluing parts made of hard and dense species of small-vascular wood. Here best performance demonstrate connections on synthetic adhesives.
How to choose the right adhesive
If you are not a professional carpenter, you should not be intimidated by such a variety of compounds for gluing wood. You can go an easier way - use time-tested types of wood glue, environmentally friendly and with a certain set of special properties.
Natural glue is supplied mainly in dry form and needs to be prepared before use. The main disadvantages of natural adhesives are a short pot life (up to 2-3 days) and low bond strength due to a low degree of chemical purity and mistakes made during preparation. Moreover, natural glue - optimal choice for fastening irrelevant parts with a significant area of adjoining surfaces.
As a universal glue, most carpenters use factory-made PVA-based compounds. Well-established manufacturers - Titebond, Kleiberit, Moment, they are listed in order of decreasing product cost and, accordingly, quality. These types of glue are classified according to the reliability and quality of the connection by the D index with four serial numbers. The higher the number, the more pronounced the moisture resistance and strength of the seam, and additional properties may appear. So, Titebond III glue, aka D4 in general classification, allows contact with food after drying, this glue is mainly used to assemble end cutting boards.
If the contact area of the parts to be glued is small, it is required high accuracy adhesion or resistance to stress, it is better to use compounds based on synthetic resins. Even ordinary epoxy resin EDP in such cases will give odds to any water-soluble glue. It is especially advantageous to use it for gluing hard wood species, including thermally modified ones, as well as when joining wood with foreign materials.
Bonding wood to plastic with epoxy glue
Preparation of parts for gluing
When gluing wood, the general rules for making glued joints apply. The fixation will be the stronger, the smaller the thickness of the glue line, the deeper the impregnation and the lower the content of impurities. For these purposes, the surfaces to be glued must be carefully prepared.
Gluing wooden parts spend up to finishing sanding... Pre-contact surfaces must be carefully sanded with abrasive paper of at least 300 grit to remove fine lint that interferes with the absorption of the glue. It is important to remember that the cleaned surface is suitable for gluing only for a certain time: over time, the top layer of wood oxidizes, the vessels become clogged with dust and new portions of pile rise.
Degreasing is not necessary when using water-soluble adhesives. However, when gluing on epoxy resin or polyurethane hot melt adhesive, it is desirable to remove residues of wood resins and natural emissions from the surface using concentrated technical acetone. It is worth mentioning the moisture content of the parts to be glued separately: a moderately high moisture content (20-22%) when working with water-soluble adhesives slightly slows down the hardening process, but at the same time contributes to deeper absorption and ultimately has a positive effect on the strength of the connection. But when using adhesives on liquid resins the increased (more than 12-14%) moisture content is categorically unacceptable, therefore, the adjacent surfaces are pre-dried with hot air for 2-3 minutes.
Adhesive application and curing
The glue is applied to the surfaces to be joined as evenly as possible. The thickness of the layer should be as small as possible, but still sufficient to compensate for the curvature. The presence of air pockets in the glue seam affects the reliability of the connection extremely negatively. Special attention give seams with uneven thickness, reaching at the peak of several millimeters: in such joints, it is recommended to mix the glue with wood flour or cellulose fiber.
In certain cases, the glue does not have the main bonding function, but is used as a plastic filler. Such situations include the strengthening of joints on spikes and lamellas with glue; splicing of wood using the groove and micro-spike method also belongs to this category. In such cases, the glue is applied with a clear excess, after which a rather painstaking work is carried out to remove the protruding residues.
It is convenient to apply the glue on even and smooth surfaces with a small flexible spatula, which can be used as a regular plastic card... In the grooves and small holes, as well as on the spikes and folds, the glue is applied with a brush with synthetic bristles. When gluing parts with a large contact area, it is required to apply a large number of glue as quickly as possible so that it is absorbed evenly. For example, you can take all the same end boards and furniture boards: to glue several dozen bars, the glue is quickly rolled over them with a roller. The same applies to gluing veneers and gluing flat pieces of plywood.
Almost all types of adhesives require curing after application in the open air. Upon contact with oxygen, the glue undergoes primary curing, which speeds up the drying process of the assembled parts. For PVA-based adhesives, the exposure time can be up to 20-30 minutes, for natural adhesives - up to several hours. Manufacturers may give special recommendations, for example, the polyurethane glue is kept until it loses its viscosity, after which it is activated by the temperature method.
Positioning, compression of parts
Holding the parts helps to increase the viscosity of the adhesive, which is good for holding the parts in the glued position. However, this approach is used mainly in modeling and making irresponsible glue seams. In most joinery glued joints, rigid fixation of parts is required using clamps and stops.
Fastening the parts with an additional clamp not only allows them to maintain their position during the drying of the glue, which is almost always accompanied by shrinkage and warping of the wood from local moisture. As the glue becomes more viscous, the pressure helps to crush the composition that has not yet set deep into the pores, which increases the strength of the glue line.
V carpentry used by great amount clamps of different types and sizes. For gluing flat parts, you can also use ordinary oppression, pressing the product to the table with a weight of 7-10 kg. But to connect the linear elements, it is necessary not only to maintain the corners, but also to squeeze the parts, which can be very dimensional. Conventional linear clamps do an excellent job with this task; if there is a lack of length, a stop can be attached to the parts, but only if the place of its fixation is blocked by another part of the product. It is also widely practiced to temporarily fasten the stops to the clamps.
For gluing parts at an angle, clamps of a special shape are used, which have two pairs of clamps and fixed jaws, rigidly fixed to the frame in a given position. This tool can be replaced with a number of fixtures, which is often practiced when gluing at angles other than straight. For example, wedges cut in a common pattern can act as a temporary stop. With this positioning method, it is important that the clamping force is directed as close as possible to the perpendicular to the glue line. For these purposes, the occipital parts of the clamps and stops can take on a wide variety of shapes.
In conclusion, let's give a couple good advice on how to ensure the invisibility of the glue seams. Most carpentry adhesives have a translucent White color: after drying, slight streaks can be easily hidden under a layer of protective and decorative coating. But there are also a number of exceptional situations.
For example, initially invisible traces of glue falling on wood are clearly visible when impregnated with oil. If such a covering of the product is planned, you need to work with glue as carefully as possible. Excess glue protruding from the seam should not be wiped off immediately, it is better to wait for their preliminary setting, and then cut off with a model knife. The story is the same with drips: attempts to wipe it will only lead to deeper absorption, so it is better to just blot the drop with a foam rubber sponge, and after drying, clean the defective spot with a cycle.
Solvents can be used to remove small residual glue that has come out. Depending on the type of glue, these can be acetone (for most adhesives based on synthetic resins), isopropyl alcohol (for PVA-based adhesives), toluene (for universal rubber adhesives and epoxy resins) and regular soapy water (for natural reversible adhesives). Dry excess should be wiped off with an absolutely clean rag or cotton napkin strictly in the direction of the glue seam.
Wood in our life.
Nature has endowed wood with such a unique set of qualities that no other material on earth possesses: environmental friendliness, durability, richness of textures, etc. It is impossible to list all areas of its application. Here's just a short list:
building;
furniture;
paper production;
musical instruments;
toys;
home stuff.
Despite the fact that this material is quite strong, it also tends to break, crack and split into pieces. In order to bring the damaged thing back to life, it is necessary to glue the wood together.
Factors influencing the choice of wood glue.
A considerable number of adhesives for woodworking have been invented by mankind. To know how to glue wood with the best result, you need to know about the range and characteristics of adhesives.
When deciding which glue to use, you need to take into account a wide variety of factors that may affect your choice. For instance:
type of operation (glue a broken stool or connect thin carved fragments);
a set of connected textures (glue wood to wood or fix it to metal, fabric, leather, etc.);
the conditions in which the glued items will be used;
expected connection reliability;
time required for gluing;
price.
Expert advice: no matter what composition you use, to achieve a strong adhesion, you need to follow the general rules: thoroughly clean in advance, degrease well and dry the areas to be joined. And one more thing: the thinner the adhesive seam is, the stronger the joint will be.
An overview of the varieties of glue.
BF:
Several formulations are produced under this brand, which differ in digital marking. How more figure in marking, the higher the ductility and the lower the strength. BF-2 is suitable for fastening rigid structures that are not subject to bending and vibrations. BF-4 is more elastic, but the strength of the glue seam is slightly lower than that of BF-2. Which type is better to use depends on your tasks.
Technology: the first layer takes 1 hour to dry. Then a second layer is applied, allowed to dry for 10 - 20 minutes and both parts are tightly pressed against each other. Note that BF glue is functional and resistant to high humidity and to most chemical influences. Disadvantage: contains aldehydes and phenol, therefore it is not approved for use in the manufacture of dishes and children's toys.
Polyvinyl acetate (PVA):
This species has been widely known for a long time; has various modifications. To work with wood products, you can use PVA-MB (universal) or PVA-M (super glue). The latter is considered to be of the highest quality due to its higher viscosity. Suitable for expensive and demanding operations.
The main advantage is fire safety. It takes a day to dry. The surfaces to be glued should be thoroughly degreased.
"Moment":
Moment is known as a versatile strong glue. Among its varieties there is a specialized one - "Moment Joiner". Distinctive features of this brand are:
fast setting - 10-15 minutes in room conditions;
heat resistance (you can, for example, fix the veneer to the base with a heated iron);
special strength;
immutability of color.
The disadvantages include insufficient water and frost resistance.
Joiner:
There are two types - bone and skin. The first is made from the horns of animals, the second is made from the seamy side of unmade animal skin. Of the two varieties, bone is considered the best. It goes on sale in the form of granules, grains or flakes.
When preparing, the dry fraction is soaked in cold water, then boiled in a water bath at a temperature of about 70 degrees, stirring thoroughly until complete dissolution occurs. It is used as a warm liquid mass. Best used immediately after dilution.
Epoxy:
It is made on the basis of epoxy resins, and consists of two components - resin and hardener. Suitable for any material, fills cavities well and smooths out irregularities. Therefore, it is especially convenient for restoration work. It is a dielectric. It is immune to water, grease, oil, and surfactants found in any cleaning agent. It hardens very quickly, and it will be impossible to fix something after hardening.
Casein:
Differs in resistance to moisture and high temperatures. It is of natural origin (it is based on milk protein), does not contain any harmful impurities. Fully sets in 20 hours.
The disadvantages include the ability to change the color of glued wood. Sometimes spots appear that darken over time. The ready-made solution can be stored no longer than 2 - 4 hours, and it cannot be reanimated.
Expert Advice: The degree of water resistance of the glue is easily determined by the packaging markings. It is indicated by the letter "D" and a number: 2 - low, 3 - good, 4 - very high. However, the D4 class is not cheap and must be justified.
Polyurethane:
A very good but most expensive choice. Indispensable in cases where you need to provide a responsible connection or create multilayer construction... The adhesion will be extremely strong, resistant to seawater and chlorinated water.
Polyurethane glue for gluing wooden objects does not react to aggressive chemical environments and ultraviolet light. In short, if you need to operate in extreme conditions, including significant mechanical stress, this is the best option.
Heat resistant:
Needed in cases where wood product will be fired; For example, gas burner... The use of an adhesive with improved thermal properties is a guarantee that the surfaces connected with it do not disintegrate even under the influence of very high temperatures.
As you can see, even so detailed review All kinds of adhesives are unlikely to give an unambiguous answer to the question: "Which glue is better for wood?" Probably, the one that will cope with a specific task in a particular case better than others, and at the same time will be available to you at a price. If possible, purchase glue for two different types and try each one in turn. So you can choose the most suitable option for your carpentry work.
Often in everyday life or in the manufacture of furniture, we have to glue various materials. In the carpentry and furniture business, the skills of the master in this type of work play an important role.
The quality of the bonding depends primarily on the pre-treatment of the bonded surfaces. The surfaces to be glued are thoroughly cleaned of dirt, grease, remnants of old glue or paint; the surface must be absolutely dry and clean. Materials with a mirror-smooth surface do not adhere well to each other, so clean them with a knife, sandpaper or with a file.
When gluing metal, porcelain, glass stone and some other parts, it is necessary to first degrease by washing them with warm soapy water and then rinsing. You can also degrease the surface by wiping them with a swab dipped in a solution ammonia gasoline, acetone, baking soda solution.
When gluing various materials there are several rules to follow: apply glue to the surface only thin layer, but so that there are no missed places. The glue should be free of any impurities (sawdust, dust, etc.) and a uniform consistency, that is, it should not contain lumps. A thick layer of thick glue does not in the least contribute to a stronger adhesion. Some types of adhesives, according to the instructions, should be warmed up before use. We would advise you not only to heat up the glue itself, but also to heat up the materials to be glued. Then the adhesion strength will increase.
As a rule, the parts to be glued are dried in a heat of at least 18 ° C. The parts should be pressed tightly against each other using a press, oppression or vice.
When gluing wood, it is recommended to preheat the surfaces to be glued. It is desirable that the moisture content of the parts to be glued is the same, but, in any case, does not exceed 10-12%. We would recommend you to glue dry wood with animals and synthetic adhesives. Animal glues include bone and casein glues. We note right away that preparing bone glue for work takes quite a lot of time, but this disadvantage is more than offset by its advantages. It is beneficial to use when a large amount of work is being done. The joints glued with this glue are very strong, which favorably distinguishes it from others, even expensive ones, such as BF-2. The glued parts can withstand a load of up to 60 kg per 1 sq. cm, which is several times higher than that of other adhesives. And finally, the tiles of dry wood glue can be stored indefinitely, they practically do not deteriorate.
The wood glue should be prepared in a special glue machine. The glue machine consists of two tin containers, one of which (wider) is filled with water, and in the second (smaller) glue is poured and placed in the first. The glue cooker can be successfully replaced with ordinary ones. cans, one of which is larger than the other. Such a device (water bath) prevents the glue from burning and can keep it warm for a long time. To weld bone glue, first break the dry glue into small pieces and fill with water. Let the glue swell for 10-12 hours, and then cook. For cooking liquid glue For 4 parts by weight of dry glue, take 3-4 parts of water. The glue should be warmed up, stirring, so that the whole mass is obtained without clots and grains. Do not bring the adhesive to a boil, as this may reduce its stickiness and durability. Determine the readiness of the glue by dipping a stick into it.
The glue is ready if it flows from the stick slowly, in a thick, even stream. If the glue is too thick during cooking, you can dilute it hot water... When working, use hot glue, if it has cooled down a little, it can be heated in a water bath. Do not brew a large amount of glue right away. Brew as much as you need to carry out the work; reheating the already cured glue deteriorates its properties. When preparing bone glue, you can also make it fireproof. To do this, dissolve 100 g of glue in 200 g of water and cook it in a glue boiler until a thick composition is obtained, and then add 40 g of drying oil to it and boil it again. An increase in the stickiness of the composition can be achieved by adding zinc or lead white to the glue at the rate of 25: 2.
When preparing casein glue, take 300-400 g of room temperature water and pour 100 g of glue powder into it. The glue powder should be poured into water gradually, stirring constantly until a homogeneous creamy mass is formed. The finished mixture will be thick at first, and it is set aside for a while to liquefy. There is no need to add water to the mixture. The finished glue should drain from the stick in a continuous stream, leaving a thin, shiny film on it. Remember that casein glue is not heated, since at temperatures above 40 ° C casein curls up and loses its adhesive properties. You can prepare glue powder at home, provided the necessary components. The glue contains 7 parts by weight of dry casein in powder and 1 part by weight of borax (sodium boric acid).
To prepare glue from this powder, you need 8 parts by weight of water. Pour in casein cold water in a 1: 1 ratio and soak for 3 hours. Dissolve borax in hot water and fill the swollen casein with the resulting solution. Stir continuously until you get a fairly thick, homogeneous mass. Parts glued with casein glue are kept under the press for 4 hours, but the glue finally dries up only after 12 hours. Great advantage casein glue the fact that they can glue wood with high moisture content. Wood can also be glued with other adhesives, such as synthetic wood glue, various resin adhesives and some other uses, carefully read the proposed instructions.
Sometimes it is necessary to stick plastic, leather, leatherette, decorative plywood, fabric or synthetic film on a wooden surface. Plywood can be firmly glued to wood with casein or synthetic wood glue. Plywood and tile glue can also be glued, but this will create a noticeable dark seam. Do not apply a layer of glue directly to thin plywood as it may shrink. It is better to cover the surface of the wood with a layer of glue, and then apply plywood sheet and press down firmly on top. The pressure should be about 8 kg, it should lie under pressure for about 7-8 hours.
To glue the plastic, use rubber-based adhesives. These can be adhesives such as 88N, Zh-3, KR-1, "Elastosila-2". Before gluing, it is necessary to carefully treat the surface of the wood or plastic.
Clean the wood from dust, and sand the back of the plastic with sandpaper until the plastic becomes a little rough. Work the corners and edges especially carefully. Then wipe the treated plastic surface with a swab dipped in gasoline to degrease it. Apply a thin layer of glue to both surfaces to be glued and connect them. Firmly pressing the plastic to the wood, run your hands from the middle to the edges to squeeze out all the air from under the plastic, and then put something heavy on the plastic so that the oppression is evenly distributed over the entire surface to be glued to be at least 4-5 kg per 1 sq. ... see Oppression leave for half an hour. Such glues are finally hardened within 24 hours.
For gluing to wooden base fabrics, leather, leatherette, use adhesives: "Dubok", "Unicum", BF-6, "Polyvinyl acetate".
Also at home, if you have the necessary components, you can prepare a high-quality adhesive composition. To do this, you need 400 g of wheat flour, 30 g of rosin, 15 g of aluminum alum and 100 g of water. Mix dry ingredients, fill with water and put on low heat, or even better, use a glue boiler. In the process of preparing the glue, do not forget to stir it periodically so that no lumps form. As soon as the glue starts to thicken, it is ready. Make sure that the adhesive is homogeneous. This glue is used only hot. For leathers and leatherette (without fabric base), degrease synthetic films with gasoline with acetone. Fabrics in preprocessing do not need before gluing. Cover both surfaces with glue with yourself and iron with a warm iron through a wet cloth until it dries.
It is better not to glue fabrics and synthetic films with BF-6 and "Polyvinyl acetate" adhesives, since BF-6 glue can shine through the front surface and stain fabrics in a yellowish color. The glue "Polyvinyl acetate" is destroyed by the action of water.
It is best to glue metal parts to wood using rubber adhesives, such as Zh-3, KR-1, 88-N, 88-NP, Patex, Elastosila-2. If you need to glue to wooden surface small metal objects (hooks, shelves), we would not recommend using the first three brands of adhesives mentioned. These adhesives form the so-called "creeping seams", that is, under the action of loads metal object will slide off the wooden surface. Before gluing, file the metal surface to make it rough, and then degrease with gasoline or acetone. Apply a thin layer of adhesive to both surfaces to be glued, clamp the parts in a vise and leave it there for a few minutes. Finally, the glue will dry in 10-12 hours.
For gluing smooth surfaces, use the same glue "Elastosila-2".
Apply a thin layer of glue to surfaces previously degreased with acetone and leave for one hour. After that, wipe the surfaces with a swab dipped in acetone and connect them. Clamp the glued parts in a vice for 4-5 hours. Finally, the glue will harden in 10-12 hours.
Glass is most often glued with such adhesives as "Polyvinyl acetate", "Mars", "Supercement", BF-2, "Patex", "Unicum". These adhesives form practically colorless seams and are not destroyed by moisture. Before gluing, degrease the glass with acetone, apply a thin layer of glue to the surfaces to be glued and let it dry slightly for 10 minutes. Apply a second coat and after 2-3 minutes join the parts to be bonded. The parts must be tightly pressed against each other for 20-30 minutes. The glue completely hardens only after a day.
To glue glass and metal together, take "Glue-sealant", "Elastosila-2", "Unicum". Degrease both surfaces, grease with glue and clamp the parts in a clamp for 30 minutes. The glue will finally harden and become water-resistant after three days.
You can glue glass to wood, as well as stick fabric or cardboard on it with PVA, PVA-A, "Polyvinyl acetate" adhesives. Degrease the glass with acetone, grease the surfaces with glue and put the parts under the press for an hour. The glue will dry in a day.
At home, BF-2 or "Epoxy" glue is used for gluing metals. Clean surfaces from dust, dirt, rust, sandpaper. Rinse treated surfaces clean water and dry well. Degrease surfaces with petrol or acetone. Apply a thin layer of glue to the surface and let sit for an hour. Then place the workpieces greased with glue in the oven, heated to 50-60 ° C, and dry for 10-15 minutes. Apply a second layer of glue to the metal and, as soon as it starts to dry out (stops sticking to your fingers), connect the parts to each other. It is better if you clamp the parts in a vice and dry them in the oven at 130-150 ° C for 1-2 hours. With cold drying
fully hardens only after 2-3 days.
Epoxy glue is indispensable in some cases. It consists of two components resin and hardener.
When using it, work with gloves, as the hardener is poisonous; if the hardener gets on your hands, remove it with a swab soaked in acetone, and then rinse your hands with running water. Before mixing the resin and hardener, it is advisable to warm the resin in a bowl with hot water, but not higher than 30 ° C. Mix warm resin with a hardener in the ratio indicated in the instructions, and use the prepared glue as well as others.
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