The technology for making a self-leveling floor on a wooden do-it-yourself is not at all so complicated, but it will require you to be careful and attentive.
Required materials and tools
Special dry mix for self-leveling self-leveling floor;
Laser building level;
Building aluminum rule (2 meters long);
Construction mixer;
Needle roller;
Putty knife;
Large bucket (20 liters);
Construction beacons (special rails with perforation) with a thickness of 6 to 10 mm;
Dowels, screwdriver, self-tapping screws;
Stationery ruler;
Alabaster;
Building mixture;
Wooden blocks;
Triangular scraper;
Cleaning powder and vacuum cleaner.
Technology of production of pouring self-leveling floor on a wooden
Remove all skirting boards and cover all openings on the floor with blocks. Clean the floor thoroughly with a scraper (pay special attention to the inter-board joints), uncover any cracks.
Then clean the base for the future self-leveling floor with a vacuum cleaner and degrease it using a cleaning powder. Now well "cleaned" cracks must be sealed with mortar, and then level the surface.
The next step is to draw lines along the entire length of the room at a distance slightly less than the size of the rule (about 2 m). Along these lines, you need to screw in self-tapping screws with a 30-centimeter pitch.
Now, using the laser level, find the highest point on the base for the future self-leveling floor. Do not forget to add 6mm (this is the thickness of the self-leveling floor layer) and start screwing in the screws at the same level (at the room ends, the screws are also screwed in perpendicular to the previously "drawn" lines). Alabaster should be laid out next to each screw (in small piles).
Now you can start laying the beacons intended for the self-leveling floor directly on the screws (you need to make sure that the beacons do not sag - you can even cement them additionally). Stir the dry mixture to create a self-leveling floor with a mixer with water (in the proportion indicated on the package), let the mixture stand for 5 minutes, then check it for homogeneity and liquid.
Start pouring the ready-made self-leveling floor mixture (at a time - on an area of about two square meters), then level the mixture using the lighthouse rule, roll it with a needle roller in order to ensure its uniformity. Constantly monitor the evenness of the level of the self-leveling floor in relation to the beacons. Let the made self-leveling floor dry thoroughly.
You can extend the life of a wooden floor in a country house using a concrete screed. This will make the surface smoother and more durable. In the future, it is allowed to finish the floor with any material, for example, laminate, tiles or parquet.
Feasibility of concrete flooring on a wooden floor
Disputes about the advisability of implementing a concrete screed on a wooden floor do not stop. Many people say that concrete will make the structure heavier, and accordingly, the pressure on the foundation will increase. On the other hand, the fragility of the wooden base will lead to cracking of the concrete surface, deformation of the floor covering. The floor is also very likely to be uneven. However, there are many facts that speak in favor of a concrete coating on a wood floor:
- A concrete screed is poured onto a wooden floor using a separate technology, taking into account the characteristics of the wood base. Laying is carried out according to the principle of an unbound screed, which neutralizes the possibility of deformations.
- It is recommended to pour cement when leveling and strengthening of the base for the arrangement of hard floor coverings is required.
- Concrete is ideal for underfloor heating.
To avoid possible negative consequences from the interaction of wood and concrete, the recommendations for the work should be followed exactly. An important stage in the preparatory stage is the priming of the wooden surface in order to ensure sufficient moisture resistance. It is recommended to use a durable plastic sheeting without defects as waterproofing. Its individual parts must be overlapped. To obtain a flat surface, beacons must be installed before pouring. The thickness of the concrete layer should not exceed 5 cm.
Since concrete itself is a massive and heavy material, which can lead to subsidence of the screed on a wooden base or fracture in weak areas of the floor, it is recommended to add plasticizers to the masonry mixture. These additives endow the solution with sufficient fluidity, plasticity, strength, water resistance, and the screed does not collapse for a long time even under high loads.
Execution technology
Scheme of a concrete screed for a wooden floor. A screed on a wooden base is created to increase the strength of the boundary between wood and concrete. So that cement and wood do not come into contact, do not affect the quality of each other, the concrete layer is cut off from the walls of the room with a damper tape, and from the wooden base - with polyethylene. This principle of arrangement allows you to save concrete from cracking and destruction due to changes in the base. The screed, laid on wooden floors, has some peculiarities:
- the mass of the pour should ensure a tight adhesion of the concrete to the floor;
- the cement should not come into contact with the wood (a layer of film is enough to prevent interaction);
- it is forbidden to pour the cement mixture directly onto the wooden floor;
- it is imperative to equip a high-quality waterproofing layer.
It is possible to pour a concrete screed onto a wooden surface only after carrying out calculations and preparatory work.
Calculations
Before proceeding with the arrangement of the floors, a calculation should be made. When using a ready-made sand-cement mixture, the amount of material is determined on the basis that 1 cm of a layer is obtained from 15 kg / m2 of the mixture, but a stock of 10% is needed.
To prepare concrete mortars with your own hands, you should buy material, taking into account a ratio of 1: 2: 3 (cement, sand, crushed stone or gravel) or 1: 6 (cement, a mixture of crushed stone and sand). The required amount of material is calculated from the formula for multiplying the surface area of the room and the required thickness of the screed.
Preparation of the base
Preparing the wooden floor for the screed. First of all, the plank covering is carefully examined. If there are damaged ones, they should be replaced, and partially destroyed ones can be turned over. The back boards are fastened with nails. When installing a lag with a step of more than 40 cm, it is recommended to additionally use support bars. To prevent the nails from tearing the plastic wrap in the future, their caps are drowned in boards by 2-3 mm.
Old skirting boards must be dismantled. It is recommended to seal the cracks that appear at the junction of the floor and wall with thin wooden boards. After filling, they will need to be removed. This will allow natural ventilation of the wood base and prevent rotting.
If the wooden base has small gaps, a sealant or wood dust parquet putty is used for sealing. For self-preparation of putty, you should take 4 volumes of sawdust and 1 part of oil paint.
If the cracks are deeper, it is better to resort to polyurethane foam.
Primer and markings
After the preparatory treatment of the base, it is removed from dust and debris. Sanding of the boards is carried out if necessary. A primer is applied to the cleaned surface. Such processing will create a protective layer that prevents the appearance of bubbles, the absorption of moisture from the cement mixture, the appearance of mold and mildew.
Marking is carried out with an ordinary or laser level. The zero mark can be at any height. It is recommended to put several marks on each of the walls at a distance of 35 to 70 cm from the floor, taking into account the thickness of the future screed. Then the marking is carried out in the reverse order - from points on the wall to the floor. In both cases, a line is drawn using a level. The future alignment line is determined by subtracting the screed thickness from the minimum measurement.
It is important to take into account that the standard thickness of the screed should be ± 5 cm. Moreover, every 1 cm of concrete exerts a pressure of 100-110 kg / m2. Therefore, the logs must be reinforced with beams or metal channels.
Reinforcement
The most popular are two methods of reinforcement - metal mesh and fiberglass:
- The arrangement technology is carried out using an unconventional method. A layer of concrete is poured immediately without beacons. A break of 1 month is taken to harden. Then the mesh is laid, beacons are installed and the second layer is poured. This technology avoids unwanted punctures in the waterproofing film.
- Fiber reinforcement is different from the above method. The reinforcing material is added directly to the concrete solution at the stage of its preparation. The peculiarity of fiber: its molecules are arranged in a chaotic order, therefore, when interacting with the molecules of the cement mixture, the material is strengthened in all directions. The use of fiberglass significantly reduces the total weight of the concrete pavement, therefore, reduces the pressure on the wood flooring.
The main advantages of self-leveling floors are their wear resistance, durability and strength of the coating. In addition, they have such qualities as: environmental friendliness and safety.
Since their inception, serious changes have also taken place, today polyurethane coatings have a rich number of color options, in particular this type of self-leveling 3d floor. With their help, it is possible to create real masterpieces of design with a stunning three-dimensional effect.
When laying the bulk mix, one of the time-consuming processes is the preparation of the base. Many homeowners are intimidated by the dismantling of old wood flooring. At the same time, not all of them know that along with a concrete one, a wooden base can also be used. The installation of a self-leveling coating on wood should be carried out if the wood is solid. A thin-filled mixture should be chosen so as not to increase the height.
Preparatory work
Carefully prepare the base before pouring. This procedure must be done with any kind of base, and especially if the surface will be mounted on an existing wooden floor.
The first step is to remove all the skirting boards from the floor, and also remove their fasteners from the walls. After that, the surface is scraped. To do this, you should use. However, if the room is small, then manual cycles can also be handled.
The next step is to open the cracks with a grinder, which, one way or another, are formed on the wooden floor. Then all the irregularities and cracks are covered with putty. After it dries, the surface is sanded with coarse-grained emery. This procedure is necessary to ensure the best adhesion.
Then, dust-free with an industrial vacuum cleaner, the coating should be degreased before priming. The base primer is necessary to increase the adhesion of the wood to the polyurethane material.
The base should be primed in two layers. Sifted quartz sand can be added to the composition, thus ensuring the most reliable adhesion between the base and the polymer coating.
Necessary tool for work
To perform work on the preparation of the base, you will need:
- Nailer, wooden wedges and a chisel for skirting boards.
- Scraping machine or hand scraper.
- Grinder.
- Coarse emery.
- Industrial vacuum cleaner.
- Roller or brush for applying the primer.
- Flat brush or short-haired roller to spread the polymer coating.
- Squeegee and spatula.
- A construction mixer or a drill for mixing a self-leveling floor solution.
This should also include work clothing, goggles, gloves and respirators. Soles with spikes are also needed to be able to walk on the freshly applied layer.
Self-leveling floor technology
The technology of pouring a polymer floor onto an ordinary wooden floor is no different from a similar procedure, where concrete acts as a base. The difference lies only in the preparatory stage, which we examined in detail above.
Before pouring the self-leveling floor onto a wooden surface, it is necessary to prepare the mortar in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
In a nutshell, the dry mixture is mixed with a construction mixer with water until a homogeneous mass is formed. Then, the resulting solution is laid out on a wooden base, starting from the far corner of the room.
The mass must be leveled with a spatula until the required thickness is achieved. In the case of a wooden floor, this is a maximum of 5 mm. The best tool for leveling and eliminating air bubbles is the needle roller.
The intervals between pouring batches of solution should not exceed 10 minutes, while the joints must be carefully rolled with a roller.
At the end of the pouring, after 15 minutes, it is necessary to cover the solidified surface with a film, preventing dust from settling. After applying the main layer of the self-leveling floor and its hardening, the top coat is applied. It can be a polymer or varnish.
Installation cost
In general, the procedure is quite simple, and you can do it yourself, but if the financial capabilities allow, nevertheless, you should hire a team of specialists who practically know how to make self-leveling floors.
Hiring professionals will provide:
- High quality workmanship
- Guarantee for all work done
- Installation according to technology
- The use of expensive but necessary construction tools in the work.
The cost of installing a self-leveling floor consists of several stages, these are:
- Preparatory work (average price 400 rubles per 1 sq. M);
- Base primer (average price 200 rubles per 1 sq. M);
- Pouring the surface (average price 400 rubles per 1 sq. M).
The cost of installing decorative floors is calculated individually. It is imperative that you use the services of specialists if you plan to install a self-leveling floor in 3d format.
In the case of independent work, you should not neglect the advice of professionals. Their experience will help to do without costly rework later.
For residential premises, you should choose a mixture of self-leveling floors based on polymer resins. At the same time, in places of high humidity, an epoxy type of flooring is used, while polyurethane flooring is used in the rest of the house.
It is better to pour it on a concrete base, but nevertheless, installation on a wooden plank surface is also allowed.
Moreover, its preparation is no less laborious, and the service life and the appearance of the floor depend on the quality of its work. It is imperative to prime the base in two layers - this will facilitate the main pouring work and increase the strength of the coating.
To create a high-quality self-leveling coating on a wooden base, in each specific case, you should produce your own necessary complex. Much is directly dependent on the conditions of further operation, the area and type of premises, as well as the type of foundation. If you doubt your ability to carry out high-quality installation, contact the specialists who will not only perform the work, but also help with the selection of the optimal materials.
At first glance, the situation is not simple enough when a relatively fragile leveling layer needs to be poured onto such an unstable base. Nevertheless, there are many proven technologies that will allow you to perform installation even with your own hands.
Are you about to renovate wooden floors in your apartment and want to use a self-leveling floor? The option is not the easiest, but there are proven technologies that are simple to perform even with your own hands.
Attention! !
What is the complexity of installation
If a concrete screed is used as a rough base, we can do the job without any problems, this base is very strong, stable. For a successful result, you need to prime, set up beacons. More difficult case when there is a wooden floor in the apartment. 
Boards do not constitute a single plane, they dangle with poor-quality installation. With fluctuations in humidity and temperature, the geometric dimensions change, and individual boards with different sizes, especially with a warm floor. When dry, cracks appear, they will have to be repaired, then the leveling solution will not flow into them. In the process of operation, creaks will appear, without dismantling with repeated work, it will not get rid of it.
Wood floors tend to rot. When assembling a self-leveling floor, it will be necessary to provide conditions in order to exclude debate, destruction of wooden elements. It is also impossible to overdry it - the tree loses its strength, cracks.
We will do it with our own hands, we will try to get by with the most accessible tools.
Tool list:
- Shoovert;
- Drill with mixer attachment;
- Level;
- Electric planer;
- Roulette;
- Scissors.
- Spatulas wide
- Spatula narrow
- Tanks for clean water
- Solution container
- Needle roller
Preparatory work
We strengthen and level the old wooden floor.
What defects have wooden floors in the apartment?
- Boards of different thickness
- Boards made by "screw"
- Wooden structural elements that have dried out or laid with a large gap;
- The presence of a squeak
- Rotten floorboards, beams
- Old flaking paint
- Deviation from the level
We examine the wooden floor. At least one defect present? Let's start fixing it. Defects occur in most cases, the only exception is new, laid in accordance with all the rules, wooden floors.
Checking the level of the wood flooring. If the plane does not match the level, you will have to completely open the floors and level or even change the logs. It would be nice to open a small part, even if the level is within the normal range, to check the integrity of the lag, but this applies more to old designs. 
Suppose we found a bias. Then it is easier to disassemble completely wooden floors and reassemble. We start the installation from the extreme logs located at opposite ends of the room. We install them evenly, according to the level, and then pull the cord between them. We install intermediate logs along the cord. We process those that are above the cord with a plane, and under those that are below, we put pieces of plywood or other suitable material. Is there high humidity in the apartment? It is necessary to process the material with antiseptic agents.
When the logs are laid in one plane and fixed, we begin to check the thickness of the boards. It happens that the prepads between the floorboards are 5 mm or more, then it is necessary to correct the situation, despite the fact that we fill in the leveling mixture on top. Here is the same thing, we remove the required thickness from thick floorboards with an electric plane, and use linings for thin ones.
A more complex defect in the form of planks that are twisted with a "screw". Wedges with a plane won't help. The floorboard "screw" rests on the beams with only one edge, if you cut off the protruding edge, the second edge dangles in the air, and this is not reliable. There are two options here - to change the whole floorboard or try to straighten it by pulling it in. It is not possible to pull in with ordinary screws, the slots break off or the bit is damaged, but the effort is not enough.
In this case, a long screw (at least 100mm) with a hex head can help. To attract with such a screw, make a hole in the board, in the place where it protrudes upward, do not drill closer than 2 centimeters from the edge. The hole needs to be slightly larger than the thickness of the screw. We turn the screw until the edge of the floorboard is level with the plane of the adjacent boards. Then we fix the pulled-in place with at least four wood screws, turn out a large screw.
Another common defect is large gaps. If we were preparing the floor for laying laminate, the gaps would not be so critical, a couple of layers of plywood would save the day. But we need to fill in the liquid solution of the self-leveling floor on the wooden floor in the apartment, and it will surely leak into the cracks. You can remove large gaps with store putties on wood, only if you go to the store, then choose acrylic for seams and seal cracks, there are also finishing ones, they will not suit us. You can make such a putty yourself by mixing PVA glue with small sawdust.
If the wooden floor in the apartment is painted with paint and it begins to flake off, you will have to rip it off. During operation, it, together with the self-leveling floor layer, may come off. I will not paint about rotten floorboards and creaking. We change the necessary elements and strengthen them.
Preparing for pouring
We got a relatively flat and solid surface. We treat it with an antiseptic for interior work. We cover with a primer in two or more layers, as the wood absorbs strongly. Before priming, we clean everything from dust and sawdust. Deep penetration primer. 
A deformation damper is required between the screed and the wall. O is needed to protect against temperature deformations, especially if a warm floor is planned. It won't break the walls, but the cracks on the surface will go. As such a layer, either a special self-adhesive tape is used, and strips cut from isolon. We attach them vertically along the entire perimeter of the room.
Fill
You may have already chosen, for example, gypsum, polyurethane or cement. But I would recommend using the special Vetonit 4310 from Weber. It is designed specifically for complex substrates, including deformable ones, like a wooden floor, although it has a cement base. You can use it as an independent base layer, a thickness of up to 60mm is allowed, as well as an intermediate layer between wood and another type of self-leveling mortar. 
It's time to pour the self-leveling floor onto the wooden floor, this process is done together. One person kneads the composition, and the other pours it out, leveling with a wide spatula. For large areas, you must first make beacons from screwed-in self-tapping screws or spider beacons. After leveling, it is necessary to remove air from the layer; for this purpose, a needle roller is used. You need to have time to do everything in no longer than 20 minutes, then it will begin to grasp.
The topcoat is laid in 1-3 weeks. To speed up drying, drafts in the apartment should not be arranged, this will lead to uneven drying, the appearance of shrinkage cracks. A meter-by-meter vapor barrier is required to check final dryness. Lay the film on the screed, the formation of condensation under the film means that the drying process is not finished.
If you need heated
Underfloor heating has become popular now and in private houses and apartments. Heating systems are divided into water and electric. In the case of a tree, it is better to choose an electric one, you can also make a water one, but you need to be sure that the floors will withstand a high load. For the water version, a screed with a thickness of at least 50 mm is usually needed, and this is already a lot of weight. The pipe has a height of 16mm, a solution of 30mm is poured above the pipe, for even heat distribution. 
In this case, a prefabricated lightweight system with aluminum plates or a multilayer underfloor heating system made of gvl sheets (drywall) is more suitable, you can read more about this technology here. But this is a slightly different topic.
It means that it is still better to use the electric option. The technology is not much different from laying on a concrete screed. You already know how to make a base layer on a wooden floor, then a roll of foil insulation with reflective properties is laid on it. After it, we mount the reinforcing mesh, and already roll out the heating elements on top and fill them with a self-leveling leveler, the DSP is also suitable, it is cheaper.
Nobody canceled the intervals for curing, when installing a heated floor - we wait 3 weeks. It is necessary to turn on the heating no earlier than a week after installation. Tiles are suitable as a topcoat. Laminate can be installed with a backing.
Video
Advantages of self-leveling coating
Self-leveling floor is a technologically advanced way of repairing old apartments. Allows you to get a flat surface in a short time. Eco-friendly, wear-resistant. Easy to make with your own hands. Ductile, crack-resistant on difficult wooden substrates.
Quite often, during repairs, self-leveling floor systems have been used recently, which are distinguished by their durability, wear resistance and strength. Among their positive qualities are safety and environmental friendliness. Since the creation of such coatings, there have been major technical changes. For example, they are presented in a wide range of colors, which in particular concerns. With their help, you can create real masterpieces of design.
Can wood be used as a base?
Quite often, craftsmen ask the question of whether it is possible to equip a self-leveling floor on a wooden floor. The answer is yes, however, before laying such a coating, it is necessary to analyze the rough base, and also determine whether it requires preparation. It is necessary to carry out installation work on wood only if it is well preserved, and it is recommended to use a thin-pouring mixture for arranging the finishing surface, which will be unable to increase the height significantly.
Preparatory work
Bulk can be equipped not only on the above-described type of rough base, but also on concrete. Before pouring, any surface must be prepared, the first step is to remove the baseboards and remove the fasteners from the walls. Then the master carries out the scraping of the surface, for this you should use the appropriate equipment. If the room has an insignificant area, then it will be possible to cope with the help of a manual cycle. The next step is to hide the cracks using a cipher machine. Such errors in the process of operation in any case appear on the wooden floor. The resulting irregularities and cracks are treated with a putty, which, after application, is left to dry completely. The surface should then be sanded with coarse sandpaper to improve adhesion.
A self-leveling floor on a wooden floor will last for a long time if the base is cleaned of dust after grinding. It is most effective to use for this. Before priming, the base is degreased. A primer is necessary to increase the adhesion of the material to the wood. The composition is applied in two layers; sifted quartz sand can be added to it before work is carried out. This will ensure the most reliable adhesion between the polymer coating and the base.
Instrument preparation
If you are wondering whether self-leveling floors can be applied to a wooden floor, then the answer will be unequivocal. Such works are carried out quite often today. It is important to properly prepare the surface and take care of the availability of the appropriate tools. To dismantle the skirting boards, you will need wooden wedges, a nail puller and a chisel, but for processing wood, you need to prepare a scraper and a sander. You can finally prepare the surface using coarse-grained sandpaper; an industrial vacuum cleaner will allow you to clean the base. To apply the primer to the surface, you will need a brush or roller. Quite often, these tools are used in tandem, since not all hard-to-reach places can be processed with a roller. Use a short-haired roller and flat brush to spread most effectively. The master will need a spatula and squeegee. It will be possible to knead the solution for arranging the self-leveling floor with a construction mixer or drill. It is best to pour a self-leveling floor on a wooden base in special clothing, wearing protective goggles, a respirator and gloves. For movement on the surface, you will need special soles with spikes. This will allow the craftsman to move around the freshly applied layer.
Work technology
Laying a polymer floor on a wooden floor is no different from a procedure that involves using concrete as a base. Only the preparatory stage differs, which was discussed in more detail above. Before pouring the self-leveling floor, prepare the solution using the instructions. The dry mixture should be mixed with water until a homogeneous mass is formed. The resulting solution is laid out on the base, while it is necessary to move from the far corner of the room.
The self-leveling floor is poured onto the wooden floor, then leveled with a spatula until the required layer thickness is reached. If we are talking about a wooden covering, then the thickness should be five millimeters or more. The most optimal and convenient tool for leveling and combating bubbles is a needle roller. The intervals between filling batches should not be more than 10 minutes, otherwise the joints will be clearly visible. But even at the same time, the connection of the mortar strips must be carefully rolled with a roller. As soon as the pouring is completed, cover the solidifying surface with a film, this must be done 15 minutes after the completion of the work. This will prevent dust from settling. After applying the base layer and hardening it, you can start applying the topcoat, varnish or polymer can play its role.
The cost of work from specialists
A self-leveling floor on a wooden floor will hold firmly enough if you follow the instructions provided. This process can be called quite simple, and you can do it yourself. But if financial possibilities permit, it is recommended to hire a team of specialists who guarantee high quality of performance, carry out installation according to technologies, and also give a guarantee for the work done. As a rule, specialists use expensive construction tools. All this adds up to the cost of preparatory, priming work and manipulations for pouring the mixture. For one square meter of preparation of a wooden base, you will have to pay 400 rubles, while applying a primer costs 200 rubles. for one square meter. Experts fill the surface with quick-drying bulk compositions for 400 rubles. for one square meter.
If you want to make repairs in a residential area, then it is recommended to choose mixtures based on polymer resins. If there are places with high humidity, then an epoxy filler should be used in them, while a polyurethane floor is suitable for the rest of the house. If you are thinking about the question of whether it is possible to pour a self-leveling floor, a wooden floor can be an excellent base. If there is a plank covering, it should be repaired, the peeled floorboards should be replaced. The fasteners are tightened, the gaps are filled with sealant or the latter is mixed with an equal volume of sawdust. Waterproofing should be laid on the wooden base. Do not neglect the need to apply a primer, two layers of which will facilitate the main work and increase the strength of the coating.
Secrets of using finishing mixtures
A self-leveling floor on a wooden floor will look very good if the rough base does not have rough relief imperfections. It is desirable to exclude them, since the thickness of the layer to be laid does not exceed 5 millimeters. Even though bumps and depressions can be smoothed out by a leveling mass, there is a strong case for eliminating defects. Self-leveling floors will harden unevenly, while the strength indicator will differ.
It is also important to choose the right dry composition, the ingredients of which will determine the purpose of the future floor. For example, if the mixture contains cement as a binder, then this composition is suitable for pouring floors in bathrooms, kitchens, showers and bathrooms. If we are talking about mixtures with gypsum in the composition, then such a floor is best used for rooms with dry and low humidity levels, where the self-leveling floor will demonstrate all its positive qualities. A wooden surface can also be used for a base in which a heating system will be present. In this case, you should choose a leveling compound that has increased elasticity. During operation, it will expand and contract without cracking.
Conclusion
Sometimes the self-leveling floor is separated from the wooden surface with oiled paper, which is covered with an overlap. In this case, the layer should be filled with a thickness of one or two centimeters. The boundary between the screed and the self-leveling floor should be formed by the method of surface treatment with waterproofing impregnation.