These are tips, mainly on choosing a tool, for those who have decided to do carpentry "for themselves". That is, at least for now, not to order and sell, but to start making something out of furniture or other handicrafts for an apartment or a summer residence.
There are two categories of those who are engaged in wooden craft for the soul: there are those who prefer to work with hand tools, and those who work mainly with modern electric tools. The first ones like how the shavings flow from under a sharpened plane, adjust the planks with a nail file and a chisel. These include, for example, Jimmy Carter. We have great respect for these craftsmen, but we give advice for the second group - those who want to use, first of all, their technical thinking, acquired, perhaps in real industrial production, or has an engineering degree.
The first question is: where to locate the workshop? Reading English-language magazines, we realized that for their craftsmen the most standard version- use the garage. In warm climates, this, of course, does not cause any special problems, but how to work with us, in frosts under thirty, or even colder. There is an exit. And this advice is good, not only for “garazhists”, but also for those who are going to work on short visits in the country, which is usually not heated all week. Tip: use. The stove can be purchased at the store or made by hand. For example, we purchased the Siberia furnace of the Novosibirsk Metalworking Company with a capacity of 32 kW, for a garage it is too much, for a small room you can choose a smaller one. It cost us about 12 thousand rubles. plus a sandwich pipe we made ourselves. The stove "eats" all types of solid fuel, except coal... Sawdust burns beautifully, the main product of the carpenter's activity :). It is forbidden to use liquid fuel, but our friend in his garage drowns his buleryan exclusively by working off. We flavored with sawdust processing - there were no problems. You can heat with a cut, which is not just given away at sawmills, but sometimes they pay extra for removal. So the cost of fuel in this case is determined only by transport costs.
Now about the tools. Firstly, if you are going to work seriously, do not buy multifunctional devices such as circular, jointer, drill and the like “in one bottle”. In this case, 99% of your working time will be occupied by changeovers. In addition, the quality of such "kmobines" is significantly inferior to the quality of the cheapest models of specialized tools, because a specialized tool is made in the face of fierce competition from manufacturers and is constructively perfected by numerous design and research teams around the world.
Almost all woodworking tools are actually - milling machines... More or less specialized, but all of them, with a few exceptions (drills, wood lathes, band saws, jigsaws, and maybe some others), are milling cutters. Only different types of cutters. An electric planer, a circular saw, a thickness gauge, in fact, are milling workpieces.
The most versatile and most essential of them is the tool - Circular Saw-circular. She, to some extent, can replace other milling power tools: electric planer, jointer and thickness gauge. But it is impossible to replace the circular with a plane or a thickness gauge.
If you cut carefully, then the workpiece after the circular will only need to be looped and sanded. Here on our website for the manufacture of paneled doors using only one circular. In any case, the tables, workbenches, and shelves necessary in the workshop can be made using one circular, gain the necessary experience and then start buying other tools. First of all, it is worth doing, which will greatly expand the capabilities of this powerful tool. A cycle of notes on the use of the circular can be viewed with us.
We recommend taking a circular saw with a circular saw diameter that allows you to cut the workpiece at least 5-6 centimeters. The fact is that if you use a table, and even a slide, the thickness of the cutting for a single pass will actually decrease by one and a half centimeters. True, this thickness can be doubled by making a second pass, turning the blank over with a cut up. Well, even greater thickness can be cut if you finish the jumper with a hand hacksaw.
Last but not least, it is worth purchasing a miter saw - this is the same circular, but only specialized. The fact is that cheap trimming does not provide the necessary accuracy - the unit for turning the vertical angle of the cut is too flimsy, so the angle is poorly held in this place - no matter how set it up. At the same time, the usual circular, built into the table and equipped with the simplest slide, in the form of a sheet of plywood and a stop attached to it, allows us to achieve fantastic accuracy of the angles - we simply did not have a tool at our disposal that could detect the error: if to sheet blanks, a meter per meter, cut at right angles with shifted ends, apply a ruler, do not give even the slightest gap between the ruler and the workpieces.
Therefore, our trimming, which we bought at the very beginning of our carpentry classes due to the lack of experience and good advice, we use solely to quickly "open" the workpieces. In general, the tool is useful in some cases, but there is no great need for it.
I will immediately answer the question: why waste time on trifles - buy everything that may be useful. Well, if funds allow you and there is a place where all this can be placed, we are happy for you. But our advice, first of all, is for those, for example, on whom there is a mortgage for a new apartment, and you need to equip a piece of a standard Soviet garage with a tool, but who does not want to breathe in a new home the stench of any formaldehyde spilling from sawdust plates, of which practically all modern furniture. And we are still wondering where the epidemic of cancer and allergies came from, about which in the USSR we learned only from the magazine "Science and Life" and never encountered in everyday life ...
The next most necessary tool is, perhaps, a thickness gauge. This is a planer tool, but unlike a planer, it allows you to calibrate workpieces to the desired size.
So we made a big one ourselves. If we had a thickness gauge, but did not have a plane, it would not be much more difficult to make it. But without a planer, having a plane / jointer, it would have been much more difficult to make it, and with the skills that we had at that time, we generally undertook to make it.
By the way:- Beekeepers often start carpentry when they think about it. It is very expensive to buy such a hive; you can do a lot with the tool of the hives.
1. Mood matters
Do not step into the workshop if you are tired, in a bad mood, or if your thoughts are occupied with other things. At best, your carpentry success will not be impressive, and at worst, it can end in injury.
2. Eyes, ears and lungs need protection
Always wear eye and hearing protection with a noise reduction rating (NKK) of at least 22 dB when working on machine tools and power tools. A dust mask is better than nothing, but a "N95 rated" respirator is preferred. When working with painting equipment, the respirator must be rated N95 or N99.
3. Get help from others
Most carpenters are happy to share their experience and give advice. A few minutes spent talking with a colleague-carpenter or just a neighbor, and the complex process will be simple and enjoyable. You can also ask the online forum community for help.
4. Replenish stocks
Always keep sufficient supplies in your workshop, including masking and double-sided tape, hand-cleaning paste, tweezers with a magnifying glass, first aid kit, and fire extinguisher.
5. Organization is never overly organized.
Buy or DIY cabinets, shelves and trays according to your needs. When things are tidy, work will be challenging and enjoyable, and you will spend less time looking for tools and supplies.
6. Do with a margin
Sawing out flew for the next project, make a few extra ones and use them to check and configure the equipment. Leftover trimmings can be useful for testing wood stains and other finishes to get an accurate idea of how they will look on the finished product.
7. Don't save every penny
Thrift is a good habit, but don't go overboard. Wood is a renewable natural resource, and if you accidentally spoil your workpiece, you can buy new shine... Sandpaper becomes unusable in 5-10 minutes. The glue has a limited shelf life (usually one or two). Banks with paints and varnishes discarded on the surface of which a dense crust has formed.
Also on the subject of this article: 8. Life is too short to put up with a bad workbench
Do you buy finished workbench or do it yourself homemade, make sure that it is tough enough, has a flat work surface and at least one powerful vise.
9. Don't expect perfect results
The desire to create a project without a single flaw can "knock you out of the rut", because it is almost impossible to do so. Therefore, do not worry too much about the mistakes that you will inevitably make. Instead, learn to fix them and prevent them from appearing in the future.
10. Take the time to prepare
Sometimes it is worth spending an hour or two making a special tool to perform an operation that takes five seconds. The devices ensure the safety, accuracy and repeatability of the actions performed.
11. Appearance of the product is more important than material waste
Mark the position of the workpieces to be cut on boards and sheets with chalk in order to make rational use of the material. However, sometimes it is better to cut in such a way as to exclude defective areas and benefit from an effective texture pattern or color. When purchasing lumber, plan to lose 10-20% as waste.
12. Adhesive + smooth surface = strong bond
Forget the notion that roughness is essential for good adhesion. Smooth surfaces bond better than rough surfaces. Take the time to make the mating surfaces of the parts smooth and tight against each other. Remember that glue does not adhere to burned surfaces, so avoid them.
13. How to Avoid Chips - Two Simple Tools Can Help Deal With Chips
Chips can irreparably damage the workpiece. To prevent their occurrence, support the workpiece from the back using appropriate support. Purchase or make your own splinter inserts for circular saw, band saw and miter saw (miter saw test below), drilling machine... Attach a wooden chipping guard on the back edge of the workpiece to the corner stop. When milling, also support the cutter exit point from the workpiece using a suitable cut.
Make special anti-splinter pads for different angles saw blade tilt and machine settings, for example for cutting bevels and grooves.
14. How to handle rough boards - the correct procedure
Here's how to process non-planed material to get the right shape.
- Saw the workpieces with a minimum allowance of 6 mm, at the same time getting rid of the end cracks.
- Sharpen one face with a planer.
- On a thicknessing machine, make the other face parallel to the first and bevel the workpiece to the final thickness, removing the same amount of material from both sides.
- Use a planer to cut one edge perpendicular to the face.
- Saw the workpiece to its final width with a circular saw.
- Saw the workpiece to the final length.
15. Nothing replaces accurate markings
Neither glue nor putty will help rescue a weakened joint. Therefore, get yourself quality marking tools - a combination square, a steel ruler, a marking knife and a thickness gauge - and learn how to work with them.
16. Do not process artificial materials on planers.
Composite materials such as plywood, chipboard and MDF, due to their high glue content, blunt planer and thickness planer knives much faster than wood.
17. Templates guarantee fast and accurate results
When you need to make several identical parts with cutouts or curved contours, you can speed up the work and achieve accuracy by sawing them in a bag and processing them according to a template on a milling table.
Secure several blanks with double-sided tape. The stop rod will help hold the bag at the start of the pass.
18. First assembly, then glue
Always do dry assembly before applying adhesive. You may not want to find poorly fitted joints or non-rectangularity after the adhesive has been applied.
19. Pre-sanding pays off handsomely
Before assembly, grind as many parts as possible, especially their internal surfaces, which will be difficult to access after assembly.
20. Don't be picky about the clamps.
Most of us hardly need anything more sophisticated than inexpensive, time-tested pipe clamps. Stock up on sets of 30 clamps; 60; 90 and 120 cm, four pieces of each size. To get longer clamps, connect them to each other using couplings, or buy longer pipe lengths and simply move the clamps between them. Add to this some handy one-handed clamps (such as the Quick-Grip) in 15 and 30 cm lengths. Purchase other clamps only as needed.
21. Install the hardware, and then remove and reinstall
Assemble and install the product before applying stain or clearcoat. metal parts to make sure everything works as it should. Then remove all the hardware, apply the finish and reinstall the hardware. This ensures that the coating is applied to all surfaces of the product except metal parts.
22. "Almost right" angle means not rectangular
When assembling products with right angles, it is important to achieve perfect squareness, especially if the item has inset doors or drawers. Therefore, buy or make mounting brackets for a neat assembly. Without them, you are doomed to correct mistakes for the rest of the project time.
23. Have an understanding of wood and how to cut it
Meet the most common tree species(especially those that grow in your area). This will help tune your "internal radar" to look for great deals. You can save money by purchasing unedged boards from local sawmills and lumber bases. First, learn to distinguish between sawing methods. Radial cut boards are the most expensive but also warp resistant and produce the least waste. Tangential sawn boards, on the other hand, are cheaper, but tend to warp and generate more waste. Mixed sawn timber occupies an intermediate position between the two types described.
radial cut
tangential cut
mixed cut
24. Wood changes size - consider this!
Seasonal fluctuations in air humidity cause wood shrinkage and swelling. Changes in size mainly occur in the direction across the fibers, and only slightly along them. Take this into account when creating products, otherwise the parts will crack, the joints will fall apart, and the moving parts will jam. These problems can be minimized by allowing the materials to adapt to the humidity in your workshop by letting them sit for a few days before starting work.
Even when the moisture content of the wood reaches a stable level, the same as in the environment, the tree still changes its size due to seasonal fluctuations in moisture.
25. Find out the real meaning of the concept of "cubic capacity"
Outside of hypermarkets, wood flakes are set per cubic meter (a unit of volume equivalent to a dense stack of 1 × 1 x1m). Measurements are made as follows: the thickness of the board is multiplied by the width and length, expressed in meters. For example, the volume of one board 50x 150 × 6000 mm is 0.05 × 0.15 × 6 = 0.045 m 3. There will be 22 such boards in one cubic meter (1: 0.045 = 22.2).
26. Sharp means safe
Dull knives and chisels require a lot of effort when cutting wood. Increasing force increases the likelihood that the instrument will slip or lose control of it, which often leads to injury. Therefore, regularly sharpen your hand tools.
27. Know when to spend and when to save
Buy high quality machines and tools if you intend to use them for decades (milling cutter, circular saw and thicknessing machine). Equipment that is used only occasionally (oscillating and belt sanders, pneumatic staplers) does not have to be expensive.
Steel tools rust. Learn to remove and prevent rust, especially if you live in a high humidity environment. Leave homemade recipes aside and try one of the proven anti-corrosion products like Empire Top Saver Rust Remover and Rust Remover, Boeshield Rust-Free Rust Remover. protective agent Boeshield T-9.
29. Thicknessing will not flatten the boards
The thicknessing machine makes two sides of the board parallel, but it is not able to eliminate buckling or helical twisting (wing-like). First, you need to process one face of the board on a planer and jointer, so you should have both of these machines. The costs will pay off in the savings thanks to the ability to work with cheap, unplaned boards.
30. Sometimes you can work faster with hand tools than with electric
Here are just two examples. Chamfering with a little bit usually takes less time than setting up a cutter and setting up a router. A good hacksaw will cut a half-dark ledge on a spike faster than a saw.
31. An improved filter for the dust removal system requires additional costs
When purchasing a chip sucker, remember that filtration is just as important (if not more important) as airflow (l / min) or engine power. Most chip suckers come with a standard 30 micron filter and when used, much of the dust gets back into the air you breathe. Purchase a filter with a purification degree of no more than 5 microns, and if possible, then 1 or 2 microns.
32. Buying a router in a set is beneficial
If you can only afford one router, choose the mid-power model (1300 to 1700 W) as part of the plunge base and fixed base kit. Place the fixed base on the milling table, and for manual milling move the motor to the plunge base.
33. Both inexpensive and high quality cutters have their uses
Large sets of cutters, in which the cost of one cutter is $ 1-2, it makes sense to buy if you use them infrequently. Those cutters that you use constantly (mainly rounding cutters, copying, straight, spiral, chamfering and rebate cutters), it is better to buy separately, not stingy. They cut cleaner, stay sharp longer and are more durable.
34. Machine tools need care too
Almost any new machine needs tweaking to achieve high accuracy. Check (and adjust if necessary) the settings from time to time during routine maintenance. Thus, the notches for the miter fence and the rip fence of the saw machine must be aligned parallel to the saw blade. This will ensure accurate and safe sawing.
Use a dial gauge or combination square to set the saw table parallel to the blade. The table is correctly positioned if the measurements are the same at the leading and trailing edge of the disc.
35. Oiled materials can cause fire
Rags and brushes that have been soaked in stain or oil-based varnish may catch fire if left lying in the gum or thrown away while wet. Hang them individually and let dry before disposing of them.
36. Trim the panels before assembly to avoid drying problems.
Doors or side panels made of solid wood should be painted and finished before assembly. In this case, with the inevitable drying of the panel, its unfinished edges will not be exposed.
37. When working with a spray, remove the back wall
When applying a coating from a spray gun to a body with a rear wall installed, excess composition (dust) will fly off from it directly into your face - an unpleasant prospect. Instead, remove the back wall and paint it separately.
38. Hand sanding will provide a better look
Despite the large, final stage should be hand sanded along the grain to eliminate transverse scratch marks.
39. Find the best way to finish
It is not at all necessary to master the technologies of applying all existing types of coatings. Find one or two coatings that work for you (say, oil-based coatings for items that are rarely handled, and polyurethane for items that need reliable protection) and learn how to use them.
40. Additional sanding will help to avoid darkening of the ends.
Sand visible end cuts sandpaper one number higher than the faces and edges. In this case, the ends will absorb less stain and will better match the color of the entire product.
41 Products to be treated with stain need additional sanding
Start sanding the cut parts with 120 grit sandpaper, then go to 150 and 180 grit abrasives. If you intend to apply oil or clear varnish, stop after sanding with 180. However, if you are going to tint the item, sand it with up to 220 grit sandpaper to remove minor scratches that will appear after the application of the dye.
42. Spot your footprints in time cutting tool
Traces left by cutting tools that are poorly visible in natural light (seizures, ripples and steps after processing in a thicknessing machine) can lurk on the front sides of your product, waiting for the finish to be applied. To identify them, inspect the parts under oblique lighting, and if defects are found, remove them with sandpaper, a planer or a cycle.
Based on materials from the magazine for artisans "Wood Master" (excellent edition)
Practice: Test miter saw BOSCH GCM 12 GDL (not advertising)
The miter saw, which we mentioned above, mentioning the fight against chips when processing a part, is convenient and effective when performing both small and large volumes of work due to the prompt preparation and quick changeover of the saw blade tilt angles. Cutting accuracy and cutting quality ensure that the task is completed the first time without rework, that is, without wasting time and material.
The package includes itself Miter saw GCM 12 GDL Professional with mounted saw blade, handle for fixing the swing angle of the bed, clamp for clamping the workpiece, dust bag and two hex keys. If you need to cut aluminum parts, you should additionally purchase special saw blades with a trapezoidal tooth sharpening.
PREPARATION
The stage did not take long. A durable workbench was used kitchen table... We securely attached the saw to its cover with four M8 bolts. The next step is to install a handle that fixes the angle of rotation of the bed. A special bag for collecting dust was put on the suction pipe. A screw clamp is used to fix the workpiece. It is good that the designers have provided frame extensions. It was thanks to their extreme position that it was possible to securely fix the workpiece, although it was long.
We calculated the connection angles of the rafter elements in advance, and now it only remained to set them exactly on the graduation dial. By turning the work bed, we set the first corner and fixed it.
On the workpiece rafter element cut start marks have already been applied. The workpiece was placed on the bed and previously secured. After that, the mechanism of the spatial movement of the working body was unblocked. By moving the locking lever, they lowered the saw blade onto the workpiece and, loosening the fastening of the latter and moving it, aligned the saw teeth with the mark. It remains to connect the saw to the network and turn on the start button
The very first sawing was pleasantly surprised by the ease of the process and the high quality of the cut. Advancing the saw blade is virtually effortless. The lever mechanism for moving the working tool is compact and really easy to use. Changing the cutting angle was quick and easy. No change in the angle of cut as sawing was detected - the subsequent assembly of the rafters showed high precision execution of the cutting angle of each element, which significantly reduced the time for their final assembly.
Saw control is literally at your fingertips: the lock for the selected tilt angle of the saw blade is on the protrusion of the bed on the left, the lock for the angle of rotation is on the right, and the accidental movement lock button is in the center.
A double laser marker is convenient - the lines show the actual width of the cut, and not its middle. This allows for a more accurate cut, which is also very important. In general, working with this tool is a pleasure. The movement is light, smooth, without jamming, the fixed parts are rigid, the graduation scales are easy to read, the standard disc saws very accurately. However, the absence of a button to block the accidental start of the engine requires special attention, especially in the process of mastering the novelty. It should also be borne in mind that at the maximum cutting angles at the end of the process, the movable part of the saw can touch the arm of the bracket locking mechanism or the clamp post.
How to check the quality of lumber and choose a quality one? A few tips.
Harvesters cut each log in such a way as to get the maximum number of boards or beams out of it, which are quite different in quality.
Good lumber has fewer knots and is less likely to warp.
IN good boards for the manufacture of flooring, wood fibers are usually located parallel to the surface of the board or at an angle to the surface up to 45 ° (Fig, 2). Lumber with a transverse arrangement of wood fibers to the surface of the board is a low grade of construction wood.
When making flooring, try to lay the boards up with the side closer to the tree bark.
Otherwise, the edges of the board will rise when warping, and it will accumulate more more water, which will lead to decay of wood.
Construction timber is either fresh or dried. Lumber dried in special ovens is much more expensive than fresh timber, and the wooden structure you have made will dry out on its own over time.
When choosing blanks, make sure that there are no longitudinal and transverse cracks, delamination and wood splits in them.
These defects not only weaken the load-bearing capacity of the boards, but also make them unsightly, and can also cause dangerous splinters.
Also try to avoid buying lumber that is warped, twisted, or twisted.
Rice. 2. Billets and defects of lumber: 1 - wood fibers are located parallel to the board; 2-wood fibers are located at an angle to the face of the board; 3-wood fibers are located across the surface of the board; 4 - cracks; 5 - stratification of wood; 6 - splits in the workpiece; 7 - warping of the board; 8 - twisting the board; 9.10 - curvature of the board relative to different axes. CONVENIENT DEVICE FOR FOLDING CLOTHES To ... How and how to protect the overhangs ...
Workshop device
As a rule, a carpenter's home workshop is organized in rooms of a small area, therefore, it is necessary to install equipment in it rationally, using the space to the maximum.
Consider one of the ways to place machines, tools and furniture up to the ceiling of a carpentry workshop. Here most often come from the frequency of use of tools and materials.
For example, painting equipment is installed on top, and boxes with nails, screws and other small things are placed on the lower shelves. When setting up your workshop, do not forget to make room for the various slats and bars. But most importantly, it is necessary to correctly position the tools that are most often used. It is advisable to make a small compartment for them and fix them there, they should also hang so that they can be easily removed.
The workshop can look like a large wardrobe, it is desirable that it be locked with a padlock. The dimensions are determined by the capabilities of the room and the conditions of the workpiece being manufactured.
Joinery connections every carpenter should know
The boards are connected in different ways, as a result of which various objects are obtained of the correct shape. You can connect with screws and self-tapping screws, but holes appear from them, and they must be camouflaged. Therefore, if the product will not be painted in the future, or if the material is glued, then it is better to make joints that do not cause damage to the surfaces.
For this, connections on dowels are suitable, when holes for the dowel are made in two parts to be connected. The distance between the holes is calculated in advance. A dowel is installed in the supporting part or in the joint and fixed with glue. Then, the prepared parts are treated with glue and pressed together. If the dowel enters with difficulty, it is carefully knocked out with a hammer, and in order not to damage the surface, a board is placed.
Need to know! If the dowels are initially made to a certain length, then the holes must be drilled clearly to this depth, down to a millimeter.
Another variant of the connection on open tenons is to enter the tenons of one part into the eyes of the other. This connection is made at the rear corners of the drawers, in the shelves, where the spikes do not get in the way. The spikes in the front are invisible, since they enter the end of the board so that a layer of wood covers them from above. The spikes are made so that the connection is in the form of a strong wedge. This type of grip is easier to make than dovetail cleats, where the profile looks like a trapezoid.
To gouge the dovetail with a chisel, the boards are fastened with a clamp to the table. In order for the edges to be of better quality, the bar is hollowed out to half, and then turned over and finished off from the back side. Naturally, for a clear connection, places are carefully marked in advance.
Recommendations for the novice carpenter: natural "chemistry" for carpentry work
There are recipes that have been tested by carpentry masters since ancient times. These recipes have not lost their significance today, they are still used in the creation of various quality things from wood. All of the following recommendations are aimed at ensuring that you can effectively carpentry yourself, relying on the experience of carpenters proven over the centuries.
Tip 1. Paraffin wax for the carpenter
Nowadays, wooden rings for curtain rods are in vogue. In order for the rings to move along the bar without difficulty, it is rubbed with paraffin. The same tool is used if the drawers do not slide in well, open poorly. Naturally, paraffin wax can be used in certain areas, and in some places, in case of poor sliding, you need to gently walk or sandpaper.
Tip 2. A solution of vinegar. Vegetable oil.
The surface of the furniture should be wiped with a vinegar solution more often, this gives freshness, and if you rub the wooden parts with a solution of vegetable oil and vinegar in equal proportions, small scratches will disappear.
If you treat any point, for example, an ax, with paraffin, then it is easier to work with such tools (the edge enters wood softer). But working with a saw will become noticeably easier if you rub its canvas with lard or vegetable oil.
Templates, mandrel, stop, guide fence, jig - these and other terms refer to a fixture used to hold or guide a workpiece or to hold or guide a tool when it is frequently used in repetitive operations. Woodworking becomes art when you start making your own templates. 
By acquiring basic carpentry skills in measuring, marking, sawing, chiseling and chiseling, planing and so on, and learning how to join the joinery the first time, you will quickly notice that a significant part of joinery work is either based on repetitive operations (for example, making the same parts) , or is associated with "one-off" problems that are difficult to solve using standard methods and tools.
Behind the art of pattern making is the ability to improvise, and for many experienced woodworkers, this often means moving away from the beaten track of conventional doctrines and towards a “parallel” mindset of all available options.
Templates can be as simple devices as very complex devices. They are usually the product of the individual's mental work and represent a very simple solutions specific problems.
This can include the use of nails and pins, adhesive tape and hot glue (as an additional working hand), plywood scraps, chipboard and fiberboard, as well as fast-curing materials such as automotive putty. Certain hand and power tools require templates to complete certain tasks or to speed them up.
Basics of joinery
The profession of a carpenter, it should be noted, appeared long ago, very long before our birth. It developed without hindrance in a favorable climate, among the settlements spread out in forest areas. And together with the separately taken representatives of the profession, carpentry as a whole was formed.
By the way, we competently declare to you: all art has a habit of starting somewhere. Usually with little things. For example, peel a fallen log from the bark so that it is more comfortable to sit on it. We assume that this is exactly how the carpentry business arose - with the ennobling of an ordinary log in front of a fire burning in a clearing. We still, without knowing it, do the same on picnics and out-of-town walks, in order to have our fill and comfortably sit and eat barbecue.
Over time, apparently, they began to equip the general situation in the dwelling. Stylish clubs, tables there all sorts of ancient time fashion, some kind of lockers and so on.
Although, nowadays, some archaeologists believe that for some reason they have become a truly constructive work of the carpentry skill of our distant ancestors from those immemorial times. Most likely, this object itself had some very symbolic meaning... The staircase was not used trivially - to move from one room to another, to move from level to level. It was a unique and divine (it is not for nothing that stairs are so loved to be used in temple compositions) the way up, into the sky, to the gods! And the more steps, the closer, therefore, the owner of the premises was located to the throne of the Creator. 
However, there is another, simplified version of the explanation of the special love of the ancients for the stairs. Probably, after the appearance of benches, people needed to climb up on them - maybe the ancient masters did not always correctly calculate the height of a seated human body, or there are giant snowmen - children came to visit them. However, the fact remains - in ancient excavations, along with elementary furnishings, these very first works of carpentry art are often found.
It was only later, apparently, that the benches began to turn into tables, from which, naturally, the very name of the profession - the carpenter - originated in the Russian language.
Then, of course, there were stools designed for one sitting instead of multi-seater benches, full-sized beds with carved legs and a headboard, storage chests acquired by back-breaking labor, where merchants could sit and lie down while eating, while guarding their treasures. And only a select few citizens, so to speak, marked by God's finger, enjoyed the benefits of individualism, sitting on a chair-throne.
By the way, the ancient Romans of higher births enjoyed the privilege of sitting - a special slave carried a special comfortable bench behind them, on which a citizen sat down as soon as he felt the slightest fatigue. Such privileges were granted to persons of royal and royal blood. So, behind the Russian tsar, the courtyard wore a red chair, which was used as a traveling throne: a dignitary person has no moral right not to stand out from the crowd!
The geographical location of Russia predetermined the people's love for wood. The Rusichi initially built settlements in wooded areas, and even in the lowlands of the rivers, forest vegetation was certainly present. Probably, this is why it happened that almost all the household utensils of the villagers were made of wood: furniture, bowls, spoons, tues, boxes and even shoes - bast shoes - were woven from linden bast. There was plenty of material around, and they made from it willingly and with love.
In ancient times, men were ashamed of not being able to make wooden crafts for household use. This was both materially beneficial and happened faster than going to buy the necessary thing in a neighboring settlement. Therefore, almost all adult male (and growing up, in the guise of boys, too) the population of the Russians strove to master carpentry skills as best as possible. For the art of woodworking was considered honorable.
And it turned out in such a way that, in general, it does not even matter how much a person mastered the profession: very bad, mediocre or masterly good, which not many succeeded. The main thing is participation. And then, everyone who started working with wood tried to do what he had conceived in the best possible way, in order to look the most advantageous in the eyes of neighbors and friends, so that they would say about him: a craftsman! And, the more a person had to create wooden products, the more elegant, from time to time they became.
We will try on the pages of our site to help you master carpentry skills in the shortest period of time. You can easily restore and even create furniture with my own hands, armed with those tools and materials that are necessary in the work of a real carpenter. However, we categorically warn you: in order to start any business, you must have determination and desire. And then a positive result is guaranteed!
Of course, it is rather difficult to achieve top-class professionalism in a short time. For example, having studied our website, you will hardly be able to gracefully carve a life-size portrait of a loved one from a tree the first time, as some especially skillful carpenters can do. (They can even make something else! A gifted carpenter can easily cut out not only household items, but even a tie or some details of women's underwear: they themselves have seen wooden women's panties neatly hung on a wooden nail. could not be put on).
However, regular classes in the carpentry workshop will allow you to acquire the necessary skill, with which will come experience. And then, we are sure, you will be able to amaze the imagination of friends and loved ones with works of carpentry art, created by your own hands!
Good luck with your carpentry skills!
Carpenter's carpentry tool
Now it's time to get yourself a tool. Estimate your material capabilities, examine the existing tool through the eyes of a novice carpenter. In every house there is a hammer, screwdriver, awl, scissors. See if they are working properly. The hammer, of course, does not hold well on a too short handle, it dangles on it, and the blows often fall not on the head of the nail, but on the fingers.
There are several ways to attach the handle with wooden and metal wedges, wire, tin (Fig. 1).
The oval hole in the hammer is usually made conical, it widens towards the outside and tapers towards the handle. The birch handle is either turned or cut into a cone. The difference in the cross section of the handle is 10-15 mm with a length of 300 mm. The hammer is pushed onto the thinner end so that it fits snugly into the oval hole. In this case, gaps are formed between the metal and the wood. The easiest way is to fix the hammer with wedges made of solid beech and birch wood: one wedge is driven into the end of the handle along the longitudinal axis, two narrow ones - along the transverse one.
A more reliable fastening is provided by a metal wedge made of steel 3-4 mm thick with three feathers, the ends of which are sharpened, as shown in the figure. When driving such a wedge, the feathers diverge in different directions and firmly wedge the handle. Previously, in its end, they make notches with a depth of 3-4 mm with a chisel or a screwdriver, then the wedge will not go to the side.
Hammer mounting methods: 1 - wooden wedge; 2 - metal wedge; 3 - fastening with wooden wedges; 4- fastening with a metal wedge
In a similar way, an ax is strengthened on a wooden ax.
There is also a screwdriver in the house. For the work of one screwdriver is not enough, you will need at least two or three. But take a look first at the slot in the screw head, it is not rectangular, but trapezoidal. The tip of a screwdriver should be of this shape, its planes and edges must be sharpened with a file so that they tightly fill the entire slot of the screw. Wherein side faces screwdrivers should be slightly chamfered to ensure the greatest effort when driving screws (you have to screw them less often).
A straight, not a boot, awl, sharpened in the form of a polyhedron, will come in handy. It is not difficult to make it from a piece of thick steel wire... Before sharpening, one end of the wire can be loosened by heating and slow cooling. Steel should be hardened in this way: heat the end of the awl on a gas burner until the metal is lightened, then quickly dip it into the liquid. Since different cooling compounds are used for steel of different grades, then at home it may be necessary to repeat the hardening process by dipping the red-hot tip of the awl alternately into clean water acidified with vinegar, sunflower oil, drying oil, in a soapy solution. The degree of heating should also be varied. The quality of hardening is easy to check with a file or a hacksaw blade for metal. If the metal is difficult to tool, then the steel is hardened.
Scissors, pencils and crayons, a ruler can also be found in any home.
Now about the tool that you need to buy in the store or make yourself.
A set of tools for carpentry and related work can be divided into two groups in the order of completing: a) the most necessary for the primary work of a novice carpenter; b) necessary for more complex cabinetry and special works... Half of what will be listed can be done by yourself, but not right away, since this requires some skills in precise sawing, correct planing, the ability to connect wooden parts in different ways, use a drill or a brace.
So, at first, the following tool is needed.
Saws. A hacksaw with a short but wide blade for cross and rip sawing is preferable. In such a blade, relatively small teeth 4-6 mm high have the shape of an isosceles or equilateral triangle. Rip saw blades have forward tilted teeth, they cut wood fibers when moving forward, away from themselves, and only throw out sawdust on the reverse. A traditional bow carpentry saw is too bulky and inconvenient for working in a confined space. Bow saw with a narrow blade (width no more than 10 mm) and fine teeth up to 4 mm high can be useful for curved sawing. But if it is necessary to make such cuts on plywood or planks up to 10 mm thick, an ordinary jigsaw will completely replace the circular bow saw. It will also serve instead of a fine-toothed saw for fine work, as well as hacksaws for metal. To do this, you need to have files for wood and metal.
Plane. There are many types of this tool under the general name "plows": a scherhebel with an oval blade of iron for rough planing of lumber; single planer for rough planing; a plane with a double piece of iron, or "twin", as cabinetmakers affectionately call it, for fine planing, removing even and thin shavings; a jointer for leveling large surfaces (it differs from a double plane only in the length and massiveness of a wooden block); folds, fillets, grooves, grooves and other plows for profile planing. One double planer is enough for a novice carpenter, since most often they will have to deal with blanks already roughly planed.
Chisels. They differ in the width of the gland and the shape of the cutting part. They are used for cutting wood, cutting decorative plywood, making stud joints. Chisels with a semicircular cutter are used for cutting grooves, as well as for. For the first time, two chisels with straight blades 4-6 and 15-20 mm wide are quite enough.
Layout tool. This is, first of all, a carpenter's square, a ruler, a thickness gauge for drawing straight parallel lines on the workpiece, a pair of compasses, a shank for marking workpieces at an angle of 45 ° and a bevel for marking at other angles. At first, they can be replaced by a student's square, ruler and compasses. In the future, all these tools are easy to make yourself.
Vise. Any medium-sized locksmith's vise is suitable, but a special vise is more convenient. They are on sale, called carpentry. Such a vice is universal, it is convenient to fix workpieces in them for longitudinal and transverse sawing, planing, drilling, chiselling and other types of work both with wood and with other material (metal, hardboard, plastic, etc.).
Oilcloth. For the preparation of the now widespread casein glue, special utensils are not required. But for the preparation of traditional carpentry glue, meat or bone, you need a glue-steam bath. It will take two tin can(! larger and smaller sizes. There are no ready-made oilcloths on sale.
Squeezes. This is the name of the device for tightening and pressing of parts connected on thorns, glue, - clamps, clamps, presses. Commercially available metal clamps are not suitable for all applications. Wooden ones with a metal bolt can be made by yourself. At first, as a clamp, you can use, for example, a meat grinder screw, locksmith or. There are more simple ways pulling parts together with a piece of rubber, twine and wooden wedges.
Bar and touchstone. You cannot work with a blunt instrument. For sharpening planers and chisels, a bar made of carborundum or emery is suitable. But for dressing you need a touchstone - a bar with very small, dusty grains. The most convenient is a hand-operated mechanical sharpener with a round stone. There are household electric grinders on sale, which can simultaneously serve as a drilling and grinding machine.
Files. A triangular personal file is required for sharpening and dressing saws. Before sharpening, the saw teeth are spread using a special device called a set. It can be replaced by a wide screwdriver, pliers, pliers. In the future, you will need to acquire a set of files: a velvet file for deburring, flat, square, round, as well as a rasp - a file with a large notch - for processing curved wooden parts, grinding ends.
Drilling tool. Purely carpentry is a brace with a set of so-called feather and other drills for drilling round holes in wood and making oval holes. But it is advisable to purchase a small to medium sized drill. It is useful not only for woodworking, but also for metal, plastic and other hard materials.
At first, you can do without a drill and a brace. In a piece of wood, a hole of any shape can be made using an awl, chisel, screwdriver, round file.
Assembly tool. Large and small screwdrivers, straight awl, wire cutters, pliers, pliers. The last three tools can be replaced with one - pliers.
Cycle. Steel plate, fixed in a wooden block, it is used for smoothing, cleaning wooden surfaces.
Hammers. It is advisable to have two: one weighing up to 300 g and the second very light, the so-called watch hammer.
Glass cutter. The simplest and inexpensive roller glass cutter is quite suitable; it can cut glass of any thickness. Glaziers-installers of display (mirror) glasses up to 10 mm thick prefer a steel glass cutter to an expensive diamond one.
In the future, it will be necessary to purchase metal for puttying surfaces before painting, in the meantime it can be replaced with a thin table knife. An electric soldering iron, a core rod for marking metal before drilling will come in handy (you can mark holes in a tree for drilling with an awl or a nail). For work in rural areas, a small hatchet, for example, a tourist hatchet, is very useful. I myself have to make a device for cross-cutting workpieces at an angle of 45 ° - a miter box, as well as a donut - for processing the ends of bars and boards. From plows for this purpose, a semi-planer will be more convenient. Two chisels will not be enough; semicircular, oval ones will be required. Very narrow chisels up to 4 mm wide may be required, which are not available commercially, but can be made from steel bar of the appropriate diameter.
For the most precise work, a butt saw is useful - this is a hacksaw, the top of the blade of which is edged for rigidity with a steel profile butt of a U-shaped section.
An electrified tool (circular saw, plane, drill) can be considered superfluous in a tiny home workshop; their use will cause concern to neighbors. You can do without large chisels, they will be completely replaced by chisels. Do not need a mallet - large wooden hammer, it is recommended in manuals on carpentry on the grounds that the wooden handles of chisels and chisels are quickly destroyed by blows with a metal hammer. However, experience shows that a birch chisel handle serves for several years, and a new one can be made in just half an hour.
A wooden carpenter's meter is convenient for working with large workpieces, and for most carpentry work, a metal or wooden ruler 500 mm long is sufficient.
In modern furniture, curly, profiled wooden parts are rarely used; they are replaced with molded plastic ones. Consequently, the corresponding plows - kaleivka, selection, etc. - are not at all necessary.
In stores, carpentry tools are sold unprepared. To sharpen the saw correctly with a file, and a plane piece or chisel on a bar and a touchstone is not at all simple. An incorrectly set and sharpened hacksaw when sawing will definitely go to the right or left from the risks of the intended cut, even cross cut a small block will not be perpendicular to the longitudinal axis. It is difficult to make even cuts of wood with an incorrectly sharpened chisel. It is absolutely impossible to cut out decorative plywood, cut ordinary plywood, process the ends of a tree with a blunt tool.
Before sharpening the saw, it is necessary to separate the teeth of the blade so that during the sawing process it does not get stuck in the cut, which must be wider than the thickness of the blade. For blades with large teeth (two-handed saws that cut firewood), for working with raw wood, the divorce is twice the thickness of the blade, for other saws it is approximately one and a half thick.
To spread the saw means to deflect the tops of the teeth to the sides of the plane of the blade: even teeth in one direction, odd teeth in the other. For this, a wiring is used - a steel plate with shallow, slightly more than the height of the teeth, slots, the width of which is by several tenths of a millimeter greater than the thickness of the blade. The technique of setting with pliers is simple: clamping the teeth about two-thirds of the height from the base, with a smooth movement of the tool, they are bent one after the other in different directions. Thus, half of the teeth will be bent to the right, half to the left.
The correct setting can be checked by looking along the blade: not a single tooth should protrude from the general row. If protruding tooth tips are visible, they should be aligned. To do this, the saw blade is pulled between two metal plates, slightly clamped in a vice. The saw is bred every two to three years, that is, after four to six sharpenings.
After setting, the saw must be sharpened with a triangular file. The tooth of a blade for mixed sawing has two cutting edges - front and rear, forming a sharp top, which in shape is a triangular cutter. Sharpening of saws for cross-cutting is done obliquely, at an angle of 45-60 °, in relation to the side surface of the blade (Fig. 2). The teeth of such a saw work when moving in both directions. To get an even row of teeth, the file should be pressed only when moving away from you; when moving in the opposite direction, it must be lifted.
Saw teeth: 1 - top; 2 - base; 3 - cutting edges 
The number of movements and the pressure for each tooth should be the same, usually two or three movements are sufficient.
Burrs formed when working with a file with a large notch are removed with a velvet triangular file. Sharpening must be repeated periodically using fine-cut files. From repeated sharpening, the shape and height of the teeth change, then the blade is leveled by grinding the tops of the protruding teeth with a file fixed in a wooden block. This is followed by routing and sharpening again.
Sawing. Whoever has not seen a man with a saw in his right hand, a carpenter or a joiner is all the same. Which, it seems, is simpler: he pressed the block to the stop, threw a hacksaw over it, washed it down with two or three short light movements, and then, sweepingly, in a few seconds, cut the block in half. Try to do this, and then look at the end of the cut bar, check if all its planes make a right angle with the end. Most likely, it will turn out that the saw blade led to the side, there are no four right angles, and at the place of the saw (start of sawing) and on the opposite edge, the wood fibers are damaged, there were no smooth surfaces.
You have theoretically learned the rules of sawing well, the blade is sharpened, the teeth make up two ideal lines. Now the task: to cut a plank 500 mm long and 12-15 mm thick into two equal strips lengthwise. The cutting line is drawn on both sides with a sharpened pencil or thickness gauge, the board is firmly clamped in an upright position in a vice. Sawed? Turn both halves over and check the width of each with a ruler on the back side of you. How accurate was the cut? If the maximum difference in the width of the planks is 1.5-2 mm, then consider yourself already able to use a saw, although for precise redwood work, the maximum deviation from the marks should not exceed when sawing along 0.5 mm, and across - only 0.2- 0.3 mm.
It's all about the skills of working with a saw, as well as any other cutting tool acquired only by practice. Therefore, before sawing the only available workpiece into pieces according to the dimensions specified in the drawing, be sure to practice on an unnecessary piece of wood, check yourself and the tool.
However, experienced carpenters can give a few general advice... It is not recommended to cut without first marking with a square and a planer. Before cross-cutting, cabinetmakers mark not with a sharp pencil, not with an awl, as carpenters and white woodworkers do, but with a sharp chisel blade. In this case, a smooth, shallow triangular slot is formed. On the surface of the wood, the chisel, cutting the fibers across, leaves the risk half a millimeter wide. This risk is transferred with the help of a square and a pencil to the other three sides of the board or block. Now the task is to ensure that after cutting, half of the risks (the base of the inverted triangle) are not touched by the saw teeth. This will ensure the high accuracy of cutting, which is necessary in the manufacture of dowels and lugs for a clean, without gaps and cracks connection of individual parts of the product.
The saw teeth form burrs, sometimes wood chips, at the cut on the reverse side of the workpiece. This is inevitable when working with any saw, even a jigsaw. Marking with a chisel prevents the formation of burrs and chips, at least on one (front) side of the workpiece. At the end of the cut, hold the sagging end of the workpiece with your left hand to prevent chipping of the wood.
It is very important to start sawing correctly: with short strokes towards yourself, you should make a shallow cut on the edge of the workpiece - a groove with a depth of 6-8 mm, - holding the blade with your left thumb above the teeth so that the saw slides over the nail or the second joint of the finger. It is completely unnecessary to press with the teeth on the wood, one hacksaw weight is enough. Otherwise, the blade can jump out of the cut and injure your hand, at best, the teeth will tear the wood fibers. The inclination of the blade to the horizontal plane should be approximately 20 °, which also prevents chipping.
Miter box
Do not forget about the heterogeneous structure of wood, when approaching a knot, the blade will tend to bypass a harder place, in this case the cutting speed will slow down, which is quite natural even for wood processing on machines.
When ripping, a wooden wedge can be inserted into the kerf to reduce friction. If the saw vibrates and squeaks, which happens when working with hard or very resinous wood, rub the blade with soap or paraffin.
The use of the so-called miter box makes it easier to cut at an angle - a tray of three boards (Fig. 3), which you have to make yourself, they do not exist on sale. The side boards should be strictly parallel, cuts are made in them at an angle of 45 °, the ends are sawn off at a right angle. The workpiece to be processed is inserted into the chute, pressed against the back wall with the left hand, the saw blade is inserted into the slot. In this case, sawing can be done without marking the workpiece along the entire perimeter, there are enough risks on one upper edge. You just need to make sure that the mark coincides with the slot in the miter box.
Occasionally there is a need to cut at an angle of 30 °, 60 °, for this you can make the corresponding slots in the same device.
During the sawing process, sawdust is formed, usually of a fine fraction. Do not throw away this "junk": sawdust will come in handy for finishing cabinet work as a filler for putty. It is better to collect them in two or three small boxes, but separately light, red, brown flowers... You will not regret when you do inlay or when cracks appear in the parquet floor.
Jigsaw sawing techniques look somewhat different. When cutting a pattern on plywood, hold the jigsaw right hand under a sheet of plywood so that the handle is in an upright position, and the bow of the machine rests on the hand between the hand and the elbow. For cross cut thin strips, longitudinal sawing of planks with a thickness of 5-8 mm, as well as cutting plywood, you can work with a jigsaw in the same way as a hacksaw. In this case, the jigsaw blade must be installed in the machine with the teeth tilted away from you. The saw will work when moving forward, as opposed to moving from top to bottom when cutting patterns. In thin planks and plywood with a jigsaw, it is convenient to cut out spikes and holes (eyes) for them.
When cutting, plywood must be strengthened in a vice with the front side facing you, so that burrs and chips do not form on it.
A jigsaw is often used to cut thermoplastic plastics that can heat up easily from friction, making cutting difficult or impossible. Seize can be prevented by lubricating the saw line with machine oil. For work with a jigsaw, saws are suitable for both wood and metal.
Sharpening glands. Planing takes an equally important place in woodworking after sawing. Sharpening a piece of iron of a plane or chisel is easier than diluting and sharpening a saw. To do this, you need to have two bars: one is emery or coarse-grained sand for coarse sharpening, the second is a fine-grained whetstone for dressing, that is, for removing burrs from the blade. The width of the bar should slightly exceed the width of the piece of iron to be sharpened, but the touchstone may be narrow.
The chisel has a bevel towards the cutting part, called a chamfer, its angle in relation to the plane of the chisel can vary from 20 to 40 °. A piece of iron with a smaller sharpening angle cuts wood easier and cleaner, especially hard rocks, but quickly becomes blunt. In order to avoid chipping of the blade when cross-cutting wood fibers (for example, using a chisel instead of a chisel), it is advisable to sharpen the piece of iron at an angle of more than 25-30 °.
When sharpening, the chisel is held with the right hand by the handle, and with the left fingers press the piece of iron against the bar 
Sharpening a piece of iron on a flat bar: 1; 2 - correct; 3 - wrong; on a round stone: 4 - after sharpening; 5 - after dressing on a donkey
the entire plane of the chamfer and rhythmic longitudinal movements are driven along the plane of the bar moistened with water. Sharpening is carried out until burrs form on the back smooth side of the piece of iron, they are easy to feel if you slide your finger across the blade. Periodically, you should moisten the bar and the piece of iron with water, washing off the particles of abrasive and metal. During sharpening, the piece of iron must be held at the same angle to the surface of the bar. Usually, if the tool is not running, this operation takes only 4-5 minutes (Fig. 4).
The sharpening geometry is checked with a wooden square. The blade of a planer or chisel should be straight. A slight (up to 0.2-0.5 mm) rounding of the blade at the ends is allowed, but in no case a depression in the middle. The angle between the line of the blade and the edges of the piece of iron is straight. It should be borne in mind that some glands are made somewhat narrowed in width to the tail, then the square is alternately applied on both sides.
After sharpening on the chamfer with a simple eye, shallow scratches formed on the metal by the grains of the bar are noticeable. Now the piece of iron must be directed, sharpened, deburred. This is done on a touchstone. The straightening is done not by longitudinal, but alternately by circular and longitudinal movements of the piece of iron along the surface of the donkey moistened with water as follows.
First, three or four sliding circular movements with the back of the piece of iron along the touchstone, their surfaces should fit snugly against each other, the editing angle will be zero. Light scratches from burrs will remain on the donkey. In this case, the burrs themselves are not grinded, but only bent towards the chamfer.
Then the piece of iron is again moistened with water, turned over with the chamfer down and make five to six transverse sliding movements, as when sharpening. The pressure in both cases should be weak. Alternate editing is repeated several times.
Now look at the chamfer under oblique rays of light, its surface becomes smooth, shiny, scratches disappear. Slide your finger across the blade on both sides: you will notice that the burrs are grinded. Editing can be considered complete when the blade along its entire length becomes smooth, with a mirror shine, and burrs with a light touch with a finger will not be felt at all. This operation usually takes 2-3 minutes.
Sharpening and straightening of planer and jointer glands is performed in the same way.
The position of the hands and fingers is of great importance, it is different in the process of sharpening and dressing. In the first case, the piece of iron is held by the tail with the right palm, and with two fingers of the left hand press the chamfer against the bar. In the second case, when the burrs are removed (folded back) from the back, the piece of iron is lightly pressed against the touchstone with four fingers of the left hand, and with the right only the tail of the piece of the plane or the handle of the chisel is held.
The bar and the touchstone are poorly adhered to the surface of the workbench during work, they slide, fidget. This inconvenience can be easily eliminated by placing a thick sheet of wet paper or pieces of thin rubber around the edges under the block. You can hold a block in a vise, but you can easily split it. It is better to fix the block in a wooden block.
To do this, take a piece of wood 40-60 mm longer than a bar in length, and 20 mm in height and width. Put a block or a touchstone on it, draw a pencil outline along which, using a sharp chisel, make indentations. Make deep cuts along the longitudinal lines. It is difficult to cut wood across the grain, it is necessary to chisel: place the chisel blade along the transverse risks and lightly hit the handle with a hammer. It is more convenient to work with a wide chisel. Install it strictly vertically. Then turn the chisel with the chamfer away from you, set it under slight angle and chop wood with light hammer blows (fig. 5). And so along the entire perimeter.
The sequence of operations (indicated by numbers) for hollowing out recesses (nests) 
The depth of the groove with a bar thickness of 20-25 mm should be 7-8 mm. The bottom must be cleaned, leveled with a sharp chisel so that the resulting sides are of the same height. Now put the block in the block, slightly moisten it. After the first use, the slurry formed during sharpening of the tool will fill the gap, the bar will be firmly held in the block. It is convenient to clamp it in a vice, it is convenient for them to sharpen an ax, to correct a scythe.
To sharpen a planer on a block, you need to make at least 100 movements. It is difficult all this time to keep it at one angle to the plane of the bar.
The most convenient for sharpening of cutting tools is a mechanical sharpener with a round stone with a diameter of 100-120 mm and preferably the greatest thickness... A manual sharpener greatly facilitates work, saves time spent on sharpening the tool. Sharpening techniques are different here, the cutting angle is also formed differently.
Usually, a mechanical sharpener has a device for setting the piece of iron at the required angle and holding it in this position. If it is not there, then the piece of iron is held with the left hand in such a position that the planes of the chamfer and the stone coincide, and the back end rested against the table. On the workbench to which the sharpener is screwed, you can mark the position of the sharpened piece of metal with a pencil line or make an emphasis using a clamp.
The tool is sharpened on the sharpener without wetting the stone with water, so you need to make sure that the blade does not heat up too much, until the metal darkens, otherwise the steel can be released and re-hardening will be required. Sparks that scatter during strong rotation of the stone testify to the high quality of the tool steel and its good hardening.
The end of sharpening will again be indicated by the appearance of burrs on the cutting edge. Editing is done on a conventional whetstone in the way already described. But it should be borne in mind that the chamfer now does not represent a flat plane, it is concave according to the diameter of the circle. During dressing, only the upper and lower edges will be grinded down to a mirror shine on the touchstone. This reduces the friction of the chamfer when cutting wood. In addition, it is easy to increase the sharpening angle by changing its inclination during the dressing process on the donkey. Editing the piece of iron sharpened in this way can be repeated several times without preprocessing on the grindstone.
Cabinetmakers, before starting to work with decorative plywood or hardwood, when a special cleanliness of cutting is required, resort to this technique. The piece of iron directed at the donkey is placed with its tip on a knot in the board, hit on the handle with a hammer, and then again the blade on the donkey is adjusted even more accurately.
In this way, the finest burrs are detected and grinded, which can only be seen under a strong magnifying glass.
In Moscow and in many other cities there are workshops that accept orders from the population for sharpening various tools, including carpentry:
Planing. The main tool for planing is a double-iron planer, it can remain for a long time the only plow in the workshop of a home carpenter, so perfect is its design, tested by many generations of carpenters. A plane with a wooden block is preferable to a metal one, which requires special skills.
The plane consists of a rectangular block, it is better if it is glued together from two or three plates of wood of different species to prevent deformation of the block, especially its sole. The most suitable wood is hornbeam, ash, maple, birch, beech. In the center of the block, a through hole (tap hole) is made for a piece of iron, consisting of three parts: an incisor (lower piece of iron), a hump (upper piece) and a short screw, with which both pieces of iron are fastened in a certain position.
Planer: 1 - three-layer block; 2 - notch; 3 - lower gland; 4 - humpback; 5 - screw; 6 - blade; 7 - mouth; 8 - horn; 9 - boss; 10 - inserts 
For cleaner planing, the humpback is installed so that its lower edge does not reach the cutter blade by 1.5-2 mm, but fits snugly in this place to the lower piece of iron.
If a gap is noticeable between the glands when looking at the light, then it must be eliminated by sharpening the edge of the humpback with a file or on a flat bar. The only purpose of the humpback is to break the shavings as close as possible to the sole of the planer and guide them up the tap hole.
With an increase in the distance between the edges of the pieces of iron, it becomes easier to plan, the work goes faster, the cutter removes thicker chips, thus turning into a single plane. However, it is difficult to obtain a smooth surface, especially on material with knots and other defects.
The double piece of iron is held in the taphole by a wooden blade made of wood that is sufficiently resistant to hammer blows. The letch narrows downwards and forms a hole (mouth) in the sole 6-10 mm wide. The narrower the mouth, the cleaner the planing. An increase in its width leads to the fact that it becomes easier to plan, the chips do not get stuck in the taphole, but it is more difficult to get a clean surface on the workpiece.
A horn serves to hold the planer with the left hand, while planing the right palm rests on the back of the block and the boss.
The sole of the planer is made from the most solid wood, good resistance to slip wear. When planing uneven surfaces with knots and hints, the most wear of the sole occurs in two places: in the front part and in front of the edge of the cutter. Even chips of the wood of the sole are possible here. When the wear is just outlined, thin plates of hardwood are cut into these places and attached to the glue. Inserts of such plates are also used in those cases when it is necessary to narrow the width of the mouth.
With significant wear of the sole, it is leveled on a large piece of sandpaper or by planing with another plane (preferably a jointer). If at the same time it is necessary to remove a layer that is too thick (say, 5 mm), then the sole can be increased by firmly gluing a plate of hardwood, then the width of the mouth can also be restored.
In all planers and jointers, the blade of the glands protrudes 0.1-1 mm above the plane of the sole. The size of the protrusion again determines the thickness of the chips, and hence the cleanliness of the planing. To raise the cutter and reduce the protrusion, lightly hit the back of the block with a hammer (not on the boss!), Which weakens the clamping force of the blade, it can be removed completely. Having installed the piece of iron in the desired position, it is again clamped in the taphole with a wooden wedge. To lower the incisor, the hammer is struck very weakly once or twice, first on the upper part of the piece of iron, and then on the blade. The size of the cutter protrusion is established empirically, according to the thickness of the chips. With some skills, the carpenter sets and fixes the piece of iron in the desired position the first time. To do this, you need to turn the plane over and look along the sole: the size of the protrusion will be noticeable by the cutting edge of the piece of iron shining in the gap.
The disassembled block of a planer, without glands and a blade, is usually impregnated with heated linseed oil or other vegetable oil, rubbed with wax, covered with transparent varnish, which improves the slip of the sole during planing. Planers are never painted with oil paint, because it is unevenly erased and the appearance of the tool deteriorates.
All workpieces usually have to be planed, regardless of whether they were planed before or not. If you take a plank that was planed at the factory on a machine, then it is easy to notice on its surface the traces of knives planted on the round shaft of an electrofuganka with the naked eye. If the board was previously processed with a hand plow, then from time to time it could warp or become uneven from the uneven drying of the wood fibers.
The home carpenter often uses pre-owned wood. In all cases, before planing, you should inspect the surface of the workpiece to make sure there are no protruding nails, screws, metal clips on it. The surface must be cleaned of traces of lime, sand, paint. Nails may be under the layer of dust and dirt.
The surface after planing must be not only clean but also flat. Cleanliness is achieved correct sharpening and the installation of a piece of iron, as well as planing in the direction of the fibers, not "against the grain." But you can get a flat surface only if you have some experience with a plane.
Place a metal ruler on the just planed plane of the block (wooden ones often need to be checked themselves) and see if there are any gaps at the ends of the block. If they are, then this is only the result of the fact that you were holding the plane incorrectly.
At the beginning of planing, from the moment when the cutter has not yet touched the wood, and until the plow sole is three-quarters of the length on the surface of the bar being processed, the plane is pressed with the left hand, holding the horn, and with the right hand only pushed forward. Then they press the block with both hands, and at the end of planing, when the horn seems to hang in the air, the effort of the left hand is removed and the pressure is carried out only with the right hand, while with the left, using the horn, they only stretch the plane forward.
The correct planing of long blocks is checked by eye. The correct planing of a wider plank can also be checked by eye, as well as using two slats 150-200 mm long. The board is placed "with the planed side up on the table, and the slats are installed at the ends. If the plane is not skewed when machining with a plane, the slats will be parallel to each other. Otherwise, the raised edges of the plank must be trimmed (fig. 7).
The bar is planed starting from the surface that will be the front. But before that, you need to take a closer look at the knots, gaps always form around them, especially if thick chips are removed. To get a clean surface on knotty wood, you need to reduce the overhang cutting edge glands to a minimum, in this case the shavings will become almost transparent to the light.
Techniques for checking the correctness of planing: 1 - face with the help of two rails; 2 - edges with a ruler 
K.E. Tsiolkovsky's plane: 1 - guides; 2 - cut out workpiece
If you need to shave off a thick layer of wood, more than a millimeter, then it is advisable to cut a knot to this depth with a sharp chisel, and you can soften it with hammer blows. Then the piece of iron will not dull so quickly.
On the plane, which in the future should become the basis for sticking decorative plywood or inlay, knots should be cut down without fail, and wooden inserts should be glued in their place. This is done as follows. Square plates of such a size are cut out of wood of the same species so that they completely cover the knot, the thickness can be 5-10 mm. Then this blank is laid on a knot and outlined around the perimeter with a sharpened pencil or awl. The recess is cut with a chisel and a plate is inserted into it with glue.
K.E. Tsiolkovsky came up with the idea to equip the plane with guides in order to straighten the planks according to a given thickness without preliminary marking, dispensing with a special thicknessing machine(fig. 8).
Square. After checking the correctness of the plane, they begin to process the edge, which in the finished product can also be front. The correctness of its planing is checked with a square.
Square (1), shank (2), malka (3) 
The square consists of a rectangular block and a thin ruler embedded in it (Fig. 9). Shoe length 100-120 mm, width 40-45 mm and thickness 20-25 mm. The ruler can be 180-240 mm long, 25-30 mm wide and 3-5 mm thick. To check the right angles of large-format products (for example, frames, doors), markings of plywood sheets, large squares are used.
You need to make the square yourself. At one end of the block, a cutout is made with a saw with a depth of 8-10 mm less than the width of the ruler. The width of the cutout (eyelet) is made equal to the thickness of the ruler. If, as the last, we take the usual student's (divisions are optional), then the eyelet can be made by sawing a well-spread saw or two folded together hacksaw blades for metal. The ruler should fit snugly into the cut at one end. Any glue can be used to connect the parts. It is recommended to apply it on both inner sides eyelets.
After the square is assembled with glue, the lug must be clamped in a clamp, having previously adjusted the inner corner. When gluing, only the inner corner is checked, the outer one can be corrected later by removing thin chips from one of the ends of the ruler.
The clamp can be replaced by any other clamp, for example, a meat grinder screw, a vice. It is enough even to press the square to the floor with a table leg or other heavy object and leave it in this position for 3-4 hours.
When the glue dries, remove the remnants with a chisel, and sand the block and ruler with a sandpaper. Usually this tool, like a plane, is impregnated with linseed oil, coated with wax, varnish.
Thicknesser: 1 - block; 2 - rulers; 3 - crackers; 4 - blade 
It is easy to check the outer corner of the tool by attaching it to the flat edge of the drawing board, plywood sheet, table, first with one side, then with the other. Pencil lines drawn along the ruler should be parallel.
Thicknesser. The planing of the other two surfaces of the bar according to a given thickness and width is performed after marking with a thickness gauge, which, like a square, can be done by yourself. Now that you have acquired the skills to work with a saw, a plane and a chisel, it is not so difficult.
Surface gage simplest design consists of a wooden block into which a small nail with a sharpened end is driven. On the surface of the tree, it leaves a shallow thin trace - at risk. When marking, the block is applied to the front side of the bar.
When stripping the bar along the surface gauge, it is necessary to periodically check that the shavings are removed evenly over the entire plane. You must be especially careful when the cutter of the plane is about to touch the risks. Just try to graze it without cutting off the entire pencil line.
Now the block is planed on three sides, it remains to mark the fourth side with a thickness gauge, plan it, and the workpiece is ready.
It is more convenient to work with a thickness gauge of a more complex design, which allows marking simultaneously in two sizes without changing the tool (Fig. 14). You should also try to make such a thickness gauge yourself.
It consists of six parts: pads measuring 60 × 40 × 20 mm, two square rulers 7X7 mm and up to 150 mm long, two crackers measuring 7X8 × 9 mm and a blade 60 mm long and 7 mm thick. Crackers are made from harder wood. For all parts, only dry wood of any species that has been aged at room temperature is suitable.
A thickness gauge is made in the following sequence. Two rulers are drawn out, on a block with a thickness of 14 mm (the lid is glued later, during final assembly) with a fine-toothed saw ( better with a jigsaw) make cuts with a depth of 7 mm, the grooves are selected with a narrow chisel. Then they make a cone cut for the blade, cut the crackers with a jigsaw, and slightly round off one side of them, facing the blade. The grooves for crackers are cut out with a narrow chisel.
Parts must be checked in a trial assembly and sanded. The blade and crackers should be half a millimeter thinner than the rulers so that they fit freely in their nests. When all the moving parts are well fitted, glue a plate covering them with a thickness of 6 mm. It can be cut from plywood. So that the plate does not move during gluing and pressing, it can be pre-fixed with two studs 12-15 mm long.
It is better to use thick glue so that when the drops are pressed in, it does not block the moving parts. For the same purpose, when the block is clamped in a vice or clamp, the blade and rulers can be removed.
Thin carnations are hammered at the ends of the rulers, their ends protruding outward are bitten off with nippers and filed so that triangular incisors are formed. On wood, they will leave a thin trace up to a millimeter deep.
The principle of action of the planer is that the movable rulers, set to a given size, are fixed with a light blow with the edge of the chisel on the blade. In this case, the crackers move apart and tightly press the square rulers to the body of the shoe. To free the rulers for resizing, just press the narrow part of the blade with your finger. The rulers can be marked with millimeter marks starting from the point of the cutter.
The design of this planer can be simplified if you make a wedge-shaped clamp not along the rulers, but perpendicular to them. Then crackers will become superfluous. But the disadvantage of such a constructive solution is the fact that the blade unevenly fixes the position of the rulers, their edges are skewed.
For marking, other tools are sometimes required: a jigger for making marks at an angle of 45 ° and a bevel with a movable ruler for marking at any angles. The device and the principle of their application are clear from the figures. A joiner can easily do without nonsense, for it is enough to build a square on the workpiece with a ruler and a square, and its diagonals form the desired angle. It is rarely necessary to saw and cut wood at other angles.
DIY carpentry
Carpentry usually involves making window doors and window blocks. It is very difficult and problematic to do it. For such carpentry work, the appropriate skills and certain experience are simply required. But if you still decide to do it yourself, then the following procedure should be followed.
Prepare mounting and Construction Materials for the entire volume of the same type of work;
When harvesting bars from boards, saw them lengthwise into long bars and cut shorter wooden bars from them to the required size; 
When processing, it is necessary to firmly fix it in the workbench;
Perform fine trimming and rounding only using templates;
Hammer the eyes and spikes along the clear markings with an awl in a square. All cuts and cuts should be made only by marking with a bracket or thickness gauge. Long lines on planks and planks should be marked with blackened thread. The spikes should fit into the lugs and grooves tightly, for which, when filing them, it is necessary to leave marking lines;
Before hammering and gluing, assemble and mark (number) the parts of the product. It is necessary to glue it in a warm room (at temperatures above +15 ° C), and press the parts with wedges or clamps in the cutouts of the boards. Window sashes glue with casein glue. When gluing the joints, they are pushed halfway apart, with the exception of the deaf ones, which have to be disassembled. After compression, the correctness of the assembly is determined by checking with a square and diagonals;
Make identical products in batches. For example, when making bindings, all the vertical racks are first made, then the horizontal ones, and then the middle for all the bindings at once. This work allows you to achieve higher quality products.
Organization of a carpenter's workplace. In rural areas, the workplace of a home carpenter can be located in a barn, entryway, on a veranda or in a special working room.
In a cramped city apartment the best places for the carpenter are the front, balcony or loggia. A corner in the kitchen or even in the common living room can be temporarily turned into a workshop for carpentry work. Do not be afraid of shavings and sawdust. A broom, brush, rag and vacuum cleaner will remove them in no time.
If it is possible to allocate a separate room for a home workshop, it is carefully examined, if necessary, it is repaired, the ceiling, walls, floor, doors, windows are painted, general lighting is arranged from a lamp located in the center of the room under the ceiling. For the possibility of using an electrified tool, sockets are installed. Considerable attention is paid to the ventilation of the room; a fan is used for the hood, which can be purchased at electrical stores. The fan is installed in a window or in a chimney leading to the roof.
The workshop room must be heated. Heating can be central, solid fuel stove and electric. In the latter case, it is best to use a portable oil cooler. When installing heating and lighting in a workshop, the requirements must be strictly observed fire safety.
The work table, workbench, workbench, etc. are placed as close to the window as possible; daylight should fall from the left or from the front. Wall cabinets for tools are hung on the walls closer to the workplace. If the area of the room allows, a rack for tools and materials is located at the workplace. 
On the wall behind the table, you can fix a board or chipboard with holes in which various hooks and rings are installed for hanging tools, small shelves, boxes with small details, nails, screws, etc.
In the process of working with tools, injuries are possible. For first aid in a workshop or work corner There must be a first aid kit with iodine, bandage, cotton wool, tourniquet, hydrogen peroxide, etc. A cabinet or box with a first aid kit is placed in a conspicuous place. The workshop must also have potable water.
The workplace must have a good local artificial lighting... To do this, use a drawing lamp, which is mounted above the table or on a shelf using a special bracket. To illuminate the workplace, you can also use a reflector, which is usually used to illuminate the subject of photography. To illuminate the workplace, you need a 60W lamp.
Corner home master in the working room, the front room or the young man's room, it can be equipped with a universal cabinet, which is designed to store tools and materials. The pull-out board serves as a work table.
Storage of tools and materials. Storage conditions for tools and materials have a significant impact on working conditions, and to a certain extent on the quality of products.
For storing tools in the workshop, a shallow wooden box with a lid, the dimensions of which are taken depending on the number of tools: For a set of essential tools, a box with a length of 600 ... 700, a width of 400 ... 450 and a height of 120 ... 150 mm is recommended. In the box for each tool, a specific place is allocated with fasteners in the form of loops, wooden bars or partitions.
In the home master carpenter's corner, which is located in the front room, kitchen, on the veranda, in the pupil's or student's room, tools can be stored in a wall cabinet.
If for a special tool cabinet or there is no room in the apartment, tools can be stored in combination cabinet or in a writing desk, having allocated one or three drawers for this. It is advisable to arrange cells in the boxes. This will improve the conditions for storing and using the tool.
A home master carpenter should always have at hand such materials as trimming boards, wooden bars and slats, steel, iron, copper and aluminum wires of different diameters, tin, trimming sheets of aluminum and brass, nails, screws and bolts of different diameters, pieces of plexiglass and multi-colored plastics, pieces of leatherette, oil and nitro paints, carpentry, rubber, polyvinyl acetate and other adhesives, electrical cords, sockets, plugs, switches, etc.
Materials, like tools, should be stored in perfect order, avoiding clutter in the drawer, rack or cabinet designated for them. They are sorted and stacked each in its place. Screws, bolts, nails and other small items are placed in separate boxes or in a box divided by partitions into several compartments. The wire is rolled into rings. Boards, bars, plywood are sorted and stacked on racks. Only short and thick blocks and boards can be stored in an upright position. Neatly arranged materials take up less space, are better preserved, easier to use.
JOINT WORKS.
Such works include the marking of wooden parts, their machining, gluing and assembling, revetting and finishing, as well as hanging hinges and handles, inserting locks, installing platbands and handrails, etc. Many of these works can be done by yourself at home, knowing the basic techniques of handling wood and having the necessary tools for this.
For the manufacture of wooden products, boards, solid or glued bars and boards, plywood, chipboard (chipboard) and fibreboard (fiberboard) and other modern materials are usually used.
Boards, bars and slabs made of them are made of natural wood and have all its inherent properties: wood has a fibrous structure, resists shock and vibration loads well (especially when loads are applied along the fibers), is easily processed, reliably joins in products and structures using glue , has high decorative properties.
Plywood consists of 3 or more sheets of wood (veneer) glued together with a thickness of 0.5-1 mm, and these sheets are folded for gluing so that the wood fibers of adjacent sheets are mutually perpendicular. Plywood is available in thickness from 3 to 25 mm.
Particleboard is obtained by hot pressing wood chips with a binder (resin). Plates are produced calibrated in thickness: 10, 18, 20 and 30 mm. They are mainly used for the manufacture of furniture. Chipboard products are well processed, strong enough, do not warp, but they are afraid of dampness - they quickly swell and lose their shape. To protect the chipboard from dampness, they are veneered (covered with veneer), pasted over with a wood-like film, varnished or painted with oil.
Fiberboard is made by pressing crushed and split wood with various additives (paraffin, resin, rosin, etc.); used for insulation of premises (upholstery of walls, ceilings, followed by wallpapering or painting), as finishing material, for the manufacture of containers. Fiberboard products are easy to handle, but not strong enough.
Most of the carpentry work performed by hand is carried out using carpentry tools. If there is no workbench, you can work on regular table, covering it with a sheet of plywood so as not to damage the surface of the countertop, or on the floor.
Carpentry tools are divided into three main types: measuring and marking (rulers, folding rules, compasses, squares, templates, etc.), cutting (saws, axes, planes, chisels, chisels, drills, etc.) and auxiliary (hammers, mallets, rasps, screwdrivers, bracers, brushes, pliers, wiring, etc.). For gluing and assembly, clamping devices (clamps, clamps) are used.
The marking of wooden parts before machining is carried out using a folding wooden or metal meter. On the marks made with a pencil, lines are drawn indicating the boundaries of processing (cutting lines).
Mechanical processing of wood with hand tools includes: sawing and planing of workpieces (and finished products when fitting them to size), cutting of spikes and lugs, chiselling and drilling of sockets and holes, insertion of fasteners and accessories, scraping, grinding. A single-handed hacksaw is usually used to cut small pieces of wood and cut plywood or chipboard (see Sharpening the Cutting Tool). A hacksaw will cut cleanly and quickly if its teeth are well sharpened and correctly set - bent one through one to the left and to the right. At the same time, the kerf is slightly larger than the thickness of the saw blade, thanks to which it does not get stuck in the kerf. To spread the saw, you need to use a special tool - wiring, with the help of which the saw teeth are bent to the sides by 0.5-0.7 mm. Not the entire tooth is bent, but only its upper part, about 2/3 of the height from the base of the tooth. The set of teeth on each side must be the same. After setting the saw, the teeth must be sharpened; this is best done with a triangular file.
The quality of the sawn surface depends on the choice of the saw and its preparation, for example, a rough, uneven, ragged surface is obtained when sawing with a saw with too large and poorly sharpened or overly set teeth. Saw should be done from the outside of the marking lines in the same plane, do not press on the saw. Before the end of the sawing, it is necessary to support the sawn-off part of the board or plywood sheet, otherwise chipping may occur and the part will be damaged.
Planing wood is one of the main types of joinery work. This is done using a scherhebel (rough processing), planers of various types (primary and clean planing), a jointer (final processing of long parts) and sanding (final cleaning). For planing curly surfaces, a tongue-and-groove (selection of tongue-and-groove piles), a zenzubel (selection and cleaning of quarters), a fillet (cutting grooves), humpbacks (processing of convex and concave surfaces), etc. are used. Usually at home it is enough to have a sherhebel and a small plane; you can limit yourself to one plane for primary processing.
Chiseling is used to select grooves and other recesses, performed using chisels and chisels. Chisels are produced in various widths, the width of the blade must correspond to the hole. You should know that chisels and chisels are sold, as a rule, sharpened.
If you want to make a through hole, then chisel from both sides of the part in opposite directions, with one-sided chiselling, you can severely damage the edges of the outlet hole, they will be "torn". It is recommended to put a piece of board or a piece of plywood under the workpiece so as not to damage the surface of the table on which you are working.
If the width of the board is much larger than required, it can be trimmed with a hatchet. The marking line must be drawn so as to have a certain margin (2-3 mm) in the width of the board for subsequent planing. Cutting should be started with a notch with an ax in several places of the edge to be removed, then unfold the board and cut the edge to the marking line. Using a planer, remove the existing irregularities and bring the board to the desired size.
Scraping and sanding are the final operations of mechanical processing of wood products, carried out in order to prepare the surface for veneering during finishing. These operations are carried out using rasps, loops, files and sandpaper (skins); the roughest processing is carried out with a rasp, finishing grinding - with fine abrasive sandpaper.
Bonding and assembly of wooden parts and products. The main types of joinery connections: gluing, joinery knitting and connections with metal fasteners. In carpentry work, any adhesives are used that are suitable for gluing wood, including carpentry, (flesh or bone), casein, epoxy, PVA, "Moment-1", etc.
Joinery knitting is a connection of elements in which one of the parts has a protruding element - a spike that fits into a socket or eyelet of another part corresponding to its size and shape. Spikes can be single and double, through and blind. Often joinery knitting is carried out by means of round or flat plug-in tenons. Usually joinery knits are made with glue, for collapsible joints - without glue, by means of metal fasteners: screws, bolts, nails, plates, rivets, etc.
For carpentry work, etc., it is useful to have a set of different screws. Screws are released different sizes with two types of slots on the head - slotted and cruciform. Accordingly, you need to select a screwdriver. To prevent the screw head from protruding above the surface of the part, the hole must be countersunk - with a drill, the thickness of which is equal to or slightly greater than the diameter of the screw head.
Fastening wooden parts with nails has some peculiarities. Before driving a nail into a hardwood part, it is recommended that you drill a hole slightly smaller than the thickness of the nail. The same should be done when it is necessary to nail a thin bar or hammer in a nail 120-200 mm long. When driving nails into parts of small thickness, the point of the nail must first be slightly dulled, for example with a hammer blow. A small nail will fit more easily into the board if it is soaked in water.
Veneering (veneering) is usually performed in decorative purposes and therefore most often they use veneer of valuable wood species for this, as well as decorative film "under the tree" on a self-adhesive base or without it. For cladding, the surface of the product should be prepared - carefully leveled and sanded with sandpaper or cycles. Then select the piece of veneer you need in size and pattern. On the surface of the part and veneer, apply a thin layer of glue (carpentry, casein, PVA, "Moment", etc.), then press it tightly against the part over the entire surface to be glued and leave it in this form until the glue is completely dry. Excess veneer, protruding beyond the edges of the surface to be faced, must be cut off with a sharp knife, and the cut points must be cleaned with fine sandpaper. To bring out the wood pattern more clearly, the veneered surface should also be cleaned with fine abrasive paper and varnished or wiped with a solution of natural wax in turpentine. After the coating has dried well, it should be sanded again and reapplied. So repeat 3-4 times.
When using wood-like film, the surface of the product should be prepared especially carefully, since the slightest roughness becomes especially noticeable on the smooth surface of the film. Often, the film is used for lining chipboard products - the surface of the product should be sanded, the ends of the plate should be putty and also cleaned with sandpaper, and then carefully remove dust, dirt, grease stains from the surface of the product. Coat a well-cleaned surface with varnish 1-2 times. When using a film with a self-adhesive base, it is recommended to cover the already cleaned surface of the product with 1-2 layers of varnish before pasting, let it dry thoroughly and only after that stick the film. On the surface prepared in this way, the film holds more firmly and does not lag around the edges. Any wood glue can be used to glue faux paper veneers with a non-self-adhesive backing. The surface of the product under paper plywood does not require such a thorough preparation as under the film; enough to keep it flat and clean.
Finishing includes sealing holes, cracks and cracks on the surface of wooden parts and products, varnishing and painting them. Various types of putty based on drying oil, varnish, synthetic resins, and wood glue are used to seal wood surface defects. For example, holes and deep recesses in chipboard can be conveniently sealed with sawdust mixed with epoxy resin or wood glue. A universal epoxy putty is also available, suitable for almost all wood products.
Natural wood products are best finished in the following way: wipe the surface with a dry cloth and then use a tampon to cover several times with liquid stain until the wood acquires the desired shade... Often, after staining, wooden products are coated with furniture varnish, which gives decorative view and protects against the harmful effects of moisture. Various oil, nitrocellulose, shellac (alcohol), perchlorovinyl and polyester varnishes are widely used. Most varnishes are colorless. Varnishes, especially liquid varnishes, are well absorbed by wood, and in order to obtain a smooth shiny surface, several layers of varnish must be applied to the product, and each subsequent layer should be applied only after the previous one dries.
When painting wooden products, their surface should first be prepared: level, putty and clean. In order for the paint to hold better, the surface of the product must be coated with a primer (for example, drying oil, red lead). The paint is best applied thin layer, evenly over the entire surface, several times.
Carpenter's working instructions
1. General Provisions
1.1. This instruction was developed based on the requirements:
1.1.1. Article 17 of the Law of Ukraine "On labor protection"
1.1.2. Directory of qualification characteristics of workers' professions, approved by order of the Ministry of Labor and social policy Ukraine dated 16.02.98 No. 24
1.2. The carpenter is hired by the head physician of the sanatorium on the recommendation of the deputy. ch. doctor (chief engineer) and only Ch. the doctor of the sanatorium.
Reception, transfer and dismissal are formalized by an order for the enterprise (sanatorium)
1.3. The carpenter in his work is subordinate to the deputy. ch. PM doctor (chief engineer), maintenance engineer.
2. Tasks and responsibilities.
2.1. The tasks of the joiner are:
2.1.1. Carry out carpentry and repair work in accordance with the requirements of the drawing and technical documentation. 
2.1.2. Careful maintenance of equipment, power tools in accordance with the requirements of the manufacturer's instructions.
2.2. The duties of a carpenter are:
2.2.1. Follow the instructions and orders of the administration.
2.2.2. To put things in order in the carpentry workshop, monitor the state of lighting, alarms, observe the sanitary regime.
2.2.3. Perform quality carpentry work in accordance with the current documentation and the requirements of the E TKS, depending on the qualifications (category)
2.2.4. Repair joinery (windows, etc.), furniture (bedside tables, beds, etc.)
2.2.5. Replace locks in doors, cabinets, latches, latches, etc., guided by the passports of manufacturers.
2.2.6. Follow the instructions on labor protection, fire safety and this instruction.
2.2.7. Follow the internal regulations, instructions on the rules of conduct.
2.2.8. Use materials efficiently and economically.
2.2.9. Constantly improve your qualifications.
2.2.10. Remove inventory, tools, protective equipment to the designated places.
2.2.11. Put things in order at the workplace after completing work in buildings and structures, store materials, carpentry, etc.
2.2.12. Maintain established documentation.
2.2.13. Undergo preliminary and periodic medical examinations in accordance with the established procedure.
2.2.14. Comply with labor protection obligations stipulated by the collective agreement.
2.2.15. Cooperate with the administration in the organization of safe and harmless working conditions.
2.2.16. Give a written explanation at the request of the administration in case of accidents, breakdowns of equipment, tools, violations of instructions, etc.
2.2.17. Take good care of the tool, inventory, etc.
2.2.18. Participate in the repair of the tool on the instructions and orders of the administration, guided by a special technological process and relevant instructions.
2.2.19. To fulfill the duties of a woodworking machine operator, a carpenter in the presence of appropriate qualification certificates, documents and orders for the enterprise.
3.1 The joiner has the right:
3.1.1 Require the organization of the workplace and the conduct of work in accordance with regulatory enactments. , provision of materials, tools, carpentry, inventory, etc. necessary for the performance of carpentry work.
3.1.2 Require the timely repair of power tools, means of paving equipment.
3.1.3 Refuse to carry out work if the working conditions and workplace do not comply with regulations on labor protection and fire safety
3.1.4 Require the provision of sanitary facilities and their equipment in accordance with the requirements of regulatory enactments, PPE (overalls, safety footwear, safety devices).
3.1.5 Require the issuance of a shift task and briefing on labor protection.
3.1.6 Require the provision of benefits and compensations for difficult and harmful working conditions (based on the results of certification of workplaces).
3.1.7 Submit proposals for improving the organization of carpentry work.
4 Responsibility
4.1. The joiner is responsible for:
4.1.1. Failure to fulfill a shift task, poor quality of work, defective work.
4.1.2. Failure to comply with the instructions of the administration.
4.1.3. Failure to comply with orders for the enterprise, the provisions of the collective agreement.
4.1.4. Violation of this instruction, internal labor regulations, instructions on the rules of conduct, instructions on labor protection and fire safety, instructions for the operation of equipment, equipment, tools, technological documentation of drawings, etc.
4.1.5. Disabling (breaking) means of paving, inventory, tools, etc.
4.1.6. The use of materials and tools, equipment, joinery for personal needs, etc.
4.1.7. Loss of tools and PPE through their own fault.
4.1.8. Clutter and dirt in the carpentry shop.
4.1.9. Uneconomic waste of materials (in violation of approved standards).
4.2. The carpenter is liable in accordance with the internal labor regulations and current legislation.
5 Must know (be able to).
5.1. Must know:
5.1.1. Properties of wood of different species and its defects, types of joinery and their
Constructions, hardware and their applications, constructions and devices of locks.
5.1.2. Glues, mastics, putties, antiseptic pastes, etc.
5.1.3. Technological processes of joinery, joinery and furniture repair.
5.1.4. Appointment and device of hand and power tools, malfunctions and malfunctions in the operation of the tool, the procedure for their elimination.
5.1.5. Rules for the use of materials, tools, equipment, joinery and up.
5.1.6. Rigging, fixtures and fittings for work.
5.1.7. Legislation on labor protection, fire safety, Labor Code.
5.1.8. Internal labor regulations and instructions on the rules of conduct.
5.1.9. Standard sets of tools, devices, containers, paving equipment, protective equipment, etc., necessary for work.
5.1.10. Labor protection, fire safety instructions and this manual
5.1.11. Instructions for the operation of equipment.
5.1.12. Accident elimination plan (instructions).
5.1.13. Rules for handling primary funds fire extinguishing.
5.2. The carpenter must be able to.
5.2.1. Carry out carpentry work qualitatively (depending on the category
Qualifications in accordance with ETKS)
5.2.2. Handle hand and power tools, equipment,
Rigging, etc.
5.2.3. Wear overalls, safety footwear and protective equipment.
5.2.4. Handle primary extinguishing media.
5.2.5. Render first aid to the victim.
6 Qualification requirements.
The carpenter must have 8-11 grades of general education and training in a special program in the vocational education system. (SPTU, GPTU, UKK, etc.)
7 Relationships (connections by profession)
7.1 Joiner:
7.1.1 Receives a work (shift) task from the operation engineer, deputy. ch. PM doctor (chief engineer.)
7.1.2. Submits the completed work to the maintenance engineer, deputy. ch. PM doctor
(to chief engineer)
7.1.3. Informs about all the shortcomings, remarks to the operation engineer, deputy.
Ch. PM doctor (chief engineer)
7.1.4. Interacts with other workers of the brigade, technical service in accordance with the requirements established by orders, orders and instructions.
7.1.5. Receives tools, overalls, hardware, materials, funds individual protection and others from the storekeeper.
7.1.6. He works in contact with the hostess sisters and other heads of departments, fulfilling their requests as deputy. ch. PM doctor (chief engineer).
7.2. All disagreements between the carpenter and other workers, the operation engineer are resolved by the deputy. ch. PM doctor (chief engineer)
Carpentry and carpentry tools
The hand tool is designed to perform work using own strength... Most of the described tools can be easily replaced with mechanical or electrical counterparts. But for many types of joinery and carpentry work, hand tools remain indispensable.
Conditionally carpentry and carpentry tools can be divided by purpose: for sawing, planing, chiselling and trimming, drilling and auxiliary work.
General purpose tools
The hammer is perhaps the most important tool for carpentry and joinery work. The stores sell ready-made hammers, as well as individual parts. For the hammer handle, they use dogwood, pear, acacia wood, which are particularly hard and cheap. Only high quality steel is used for the hammer. But even this simple tool has several varieties.
A common hammer can be found in any store. The impact surface of such a hammer has a rectangular or square plane. The other end of the striker is sharpened and is often used to straighten nails when driving.
A wooden mallet, or mallet, is used for lapping wood massifs when gluing. It is also quite often needed when working with a chisel with a handle made of wood. Hits with a conventional hammer can simply shatter the handle and render the chisel unusable.
Mallet.
A carpenter's hammer differs from the usual one in that the tail of the striker is divided into two parts, like a dovetail. This end is used most often for pulling out nails.
Pliers are essential for working with wood. Their main purpose is pulling out nails, biting off the heads of nails, bending wires and nails when fastening.
Depending on what needs to be done with the nail, a distinction is made between needle-nose pliers, pliers and round-nose pliers.
For example, pliers and pliers are used for pulling, bending, biting nails, unscrewing nuts, removing screws with torn grooves from wood, and for other auxiliary work.
A doboinik in joinery and carpentry works is used to deepen the nail head into solid wood.
A screwdriver is used to fasten wooden parts with screws. Depending on the groove on the screw head, you must have two types of screwdrivers: wedge-shaped and cross-shaped.
as my teacher said in childhood, you need to start with
tools, or better from a toolbox and workbench.
Woodworking: The process of making something using wood.
Most beekeepers become carpenters or use their services.
The craftsmanship of woodworking belongs to one of the most ancient and widespread types of human activity. Since ancient times, when a person was just beginning to learn all the possibilities of using wood, he was already associated with this material in all its types and forms. The growth and development of mankind was closely intertwined with the possibility of the development of the art of woodworking and the growth of the possibilities of using wood.
Already at the beginning of time, wood was used mainly as a material for building houses, making tools, weapons, dishes and other items necessary for life. With the development of mankind, wood began to be used to create luxury goods and decoration. Rafts and all kinds of ships began to be built. This greatly accelerated the development of new lands.
With the growth of skill and knowledge about the properties of wood, this material has become almost everywhere one of the main materials used in all areas of human activity. Those who showed talent in woodworking became respected artisans and artisans. To unite and protect their interests, workshops and guilds of carpenters and carpenters were created. To preserve the acquired skills and knowledge, they began to recruit apprentices and apprentices for training. Experience and skill began to be passed on from generation to generation.
Among the woodworkers, their own specialists began to stand out, each with its own tool, projects and secrets of woodworking. Here are just a few of them:
Wheel-maker is a carpenter for making wooden wheels and spokes.
Cooper is a master of making barrels, tubs and other prefabricated utensils.
A wood carver is almost an artist who can create a masterpiece with a chisel from a piece of wood.
Wood turner - lathe and chisels, that's all a craftsman needs in order to make round and symmetrical products, such as legs for chairs and tables, candlesticks, balusters, chiseled wooden dishes.
Carpenter - master of wood construction... He should know everything about a tree and be able to make everything from it that a person needs to live.
Cabinetmaker - expensive furniture was made mainly of mahogany, so they began to call furniture craftsmen cabinetmakers.
Shipman - before all ships were built of wood, but now this profession is needed - boats, boats and yachts are sometimes built from wood.
Parquet - creates wooden floors from inlaid parquet, combining colors and structures of different types of wood.
For work, the carpenter needs a board; you can buy it or saw it yourself.
you can saw with homemade sawmills like this
or more professionally with modern sawmills
Nowadays, some of these professions have become rare, but they can never completely disappear. Although steel, plastic, concrete and other materials have largely supplanted wood, a person will never part with wood completely. Wood products always look livelier, warmer and more attractive to us. No one will put plastic sculptures in a museum, and wooden sculpture exists on its own as an art form.
Wood is used in many areas of our life, including residential and industrial construction, furniture manufacturing. In many ways, the use of wooden products is caused not only by practical considerations, but mainly by pleasure, appearance, the traditions of our society and pride in the beauty of our home.
For many, in our time, working with wood provides a livelihood. But more and more people are engaged in different kinds working with wood during rest, it brings them joy and pleasure, it becomes a rest for the soul, their useful hobby.
Something like this !!!
this is also made of wood
In addition to this, in our time, tools, technologies and devices have reached a new level of development, have become more sophisticated. A novice joiner or carpenter will be amazed at the huge selection of tools and accessories for their business.
An experienced carpenter recognizes that his craftsmanship is the result of many years of experience and long training. Knowledge and experience are needed in order to create a beautiful casket, a table decorated with carvings, to build a beautiful house.
However, ignorance of where to start a project, where to focus your attention, discourages many novice carpenters
and carpenters, they quickly lose interest and give up this business, believing that it is not for them. On the other hand, starting an overly complex project with an inappropriate tool, the novice master comes to the same conclusion - this is not his business and goes into another type of activity.
Luckily tips and tricks experienced master on wood will help the novice carpenter in his endeavors. To provide ourselves with comprehensive knowledge of wood processing, we must work hard, consult with specialists, learn from them the intricacies of woodworking, take everything useful from their many years of experience.
you can watch a movie how to make a door
There will be a board, you can do carpentry, but you need to saw it somehow
You need to start with the main types of woodworking, using the main types of tools. Don't start too complex projects... From simple to complex - this should be your rule. Strong knowledge of different types of wood, the ability to work with the main types of tools, compliance with all safety rules - all this will lead you to success in this business.
Most of my friends in the past were carpenters, then they began to make beehives
and beekeeping.