This article provides instructions on how to attach drywall to wood battens and make installing drywall to wood framing quick and easy.

Is it possible to mount drywall on a wooden frame

Cladding of walls and ceilings of internal premises is a fast, inexpensive and fairly labor-intensive modern method of finishing the interiors of civil and public buildings.

There are several options for plasterboard sheathing (GKL):

• Direct installation, it can be done with a gypsum mortar or special adhesive mastics, if the walls and ceilings have an even prepared base
• A wooden or metal frame for drywall should be used if the work surface has distortions, severe waviness, tuberosity and other irregularities

As a frame structure, both profiles made of galvanized metal sheet and wooden elements - a rail, a bar, a board can serve. A possible frame for drywall made of wood may be preferable to a metal profile, since installing drywall with your own hands on a wooden frame is not particularly difficult and does not require special skills. Wood is easy to process - drilled, sawn.

Is it possible to mount drywall on a wooden frame? Yes, and besides, this allows you to save on finishing, refusing to purchase quite expensive metal profiles. However, a drywall frame made of wood is not recommended when the room has high humidity - in bathrooms, boiler rooms, showers and bathrooms.

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Do-it-yourself wooden frame for drywall

How to make a wooden frame for drywall? If a partition is sheathed, it is usually a three-layer structure made of edged boards with a thickness of 25-30 mm. The outer layers are formed from vertical boards, and the inner layer from horizontal ones. If the installation of the partition is done neatly and competently, without distortions, then such a partition actually forms a frame for plasterboard from boards, to which, without any preparation, using self-tapping screws, you can fasten panels from plasterboard.

The use of a board for the manufacture of frame structures in other cases is impractical, as this will lead to an overrun of the material and an increase in the cost and labor intensity of the work. For facing concrete, brick, logs, as well as old warped walls and ceilings, it is better to use a frame made of timber for drywall.

Many are interested in whether drywall can be mounted on wooden slats? Since the difference between wood products (such as a bar and a rail) in relation to the installation of drywall is insignificant, the installation of drywall on wooden slats and the installation of drywall on bars practically do not differ from each other.

Fastening drywall to the wall on a wooden frame

Can drywall be fixed to wooden blocks if they are simply fixed to the walls or ceiling? This option is possible, but it is better to make a frame for drywall from wooden blocks. In how to fix the beam to drywall, a small instruction for installing drywall on a wooden frame from a beam will help.

For drywall, panels with the following dimensions are most widely used: 1200 mm wide and 2500 mm long. At the same time, the installation of panels on a frame structure made of wood of different types and characteristics (moisture resistant, hardened, etc.) has the same scope of work.

Procurement of the necessary materials, fixtures and tools

To determine the required number of GKL slabs, it is necessary to draw a sketch plan for the development of walls and ceilings with all door and window openings, slopes and technological niches (for example, for heating radiators). After calculating the working area, its value should be divided by the area that one GKL has. The resulting value will need to be increased by 20% (for trimming and contingencies), which will be the number of panels required.

• for fastening adjacent plates - with dimensions of 80 x 25 mm (first type)
• for intermediate vertical and horizontal fasteners - with dimensions of 40 x 25 mm (second type)

It is necessary to put on the plan vertical and horizontal axes, along which frame elements will be installed on the wall, ensuring the fastening of drywall to wooden bars. Its design scheme will be:

• two vertical beams of the first type 2500 mm long along the edges of the slab with a distance between them along the line of axes 1200 mm
• two vertical beams of the second type, 2500 mm long, with a distance between themselves and the beams of the first type in the axes of 400 mm
• six horizontal bars of the second type, installed at the top and bottom of the slab
• three intermediate ones, which must be installed along axes located at a distance of 1250 mm from the upper and lower edges of the plate; the length of the extreme bars will be 400-80 / 2-40 / 2 \u003d 340 mm, the length of the middle ones - 400 - 40/2 - 40/2 \u003d 360 mm

Additionally, bars of the second type should be used to frame window and door openings and technological niches. If the height of the room exceeds 2500 mm, the upper horizontal beam is replaced with a beam with a section of 80 x 40 mm and is installed so that an additional 40 mm serves to fasten the top panel from a GKL sheet cut to the appropriate length, the length of the vertical beams of the first and second should also be increased type and the top beam of the second type is installed.

After calculating the total length of the required number of beams and also increasing it by 20%, they can be purchased at the construction market or made in a woodworking workshop. It is especially necessary to pay attention to the absence of oblique and increased branchiness in them.

Before using for at least one week, the entire set of wooden beams must be aged in the room in which it will be used. After that, a rejection should be carried out, and the rest should be treated with special compounds - antiseptics that prevent decay and damage by fungi and mold, flame retardants that give fire retardant properties. Currently, deep penetration impregnations are commercially available that provide protection for wood and prevent warping during fluctuations in humidity in a room within a fairly wide range.

In the manufacture and installation of the frame, it is necessary to follow the drawn plan.

Required Tools

Tools and equipment that will be required to complete the work:

• wood saw
• construction knife
• building corner
• steel rail-rule 1200-1500 mm long
• bubble level
• water level (when facing the ceiling)
• plumb line
• hammer
• electric screwdriver
• ladder, stepladder, it is allowed to build and use self-made building scaffolding goats
• protective equipment (hand gloves, goggles, respirators)

General provisions

The assembly of the frame and its installation from individual prepared elements with your own hands directly on the ceiling or on the wall presents some difficulties - constant alignment and adjustment in horizontal and vertical planes is required with the constant use of a plumb line, level, building square and rail-rule.

If the length and width of the room allow, an enlarged assembly of large fragments of the frame can be done directly on the floor. At the same time, it will be much easier to mount the frame, both on the wall and on the ceiling, and align and attach, respectively, in the vertical and horizontal planes.

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The horizontal and vertical elements are well connected to each other using pieces of tin metal strip of the desired width (25 mm) bent at a right angle or through small blocks. Both those and others are fixed in the necessary places with the help of screws.

The installation of frame fragments on the walls and ceiling can be done using wood screws, if the walls and ceiling are wooden, using the so-called “plugs”, when a hole is drilled in a brick or stone in the right place, at a predetermined point in the wall, into which a wooden chopstick, into which, in turn, a nail is driven through the frame element or a screw is screwed in, while instead of a chopik, you can use a plastic dowel with a metal self-tapping screw.

After installing and leveling the frame, with significant tuberosity and distortions between it and the wall (or ceiling), gaps may form, which should be filled with gypsum mortar (if the tree was previously protected with moisture-proof impregnation), use mounting foam or wooden wedges and linings together with glue glue for wood, such as PVA. Otherwise, the wooden frame for plasterboard on the wall (or ceiling) will have increased fragility and may be deformed when the GKL panels are installed.

Installation of drywall on a wooden frame

After installation and alignment on the wall or on the ceiling of the frame structure, you can begin fixing the drywall on the wooden frame by directly mounting the GKL panels. In how to fix the bars to drywall, the following instructions will help.

To mount a plasterboard sheet, it must be pressed tightly against the mounted wooden frame structure, so that the long edges of the sheet lie exactly along the axes of the first type beam with a section of 80 x 25 mm at a distance of 40 mm, and so that it is possible to fix to the remaining 40 mm adjacent sheet.

Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws with a length of 20 mm. Using a screwdriver, you need to start fixing the GKL sheet on the frame, starting with the middle intermediate horizontal element of the second type. In order not to be mistaken with twisting, it is better to draw lines on the outer side of the drywall sheet with a pencil corresponding to the axes of the frame elements.

After that, you need to fix the sheet to the upper and lower horizontal frame elements. If the panel is to be mounted on a wall, its verticality and the absence of distortions must be checked using a plumb line, and on the ceiling - using a level.

Then the sheet can be fastened with vertical posts. When tightening the screws, it should be noted that the distance from them to the edge of the sheet must be at least 20 mm. The pitch between adjacent screws should be 100-120 mm.

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The instruction on how drywall should be mounted on the ceiling is not much different from how to mount the plasterboard on the wall. On the horizontal surface of the ceiling, a horizontal crate in the form of a frame is also arranged, which should be attached to the ceiling structures and aligned horizontally using a water level. For the convenience of its installation, it is also better to pre-mount the enlarged elements of the frame on the floor.

In order to mount a frame from a drywall beam on the ceiling and sheathe it with plasterboard, your hands may not be enough. An assistant may be required for installation. In exceptional cases, you can use supports and braces that can help you install drywall on bars alone, but this method should be used with caution, as unforeseen situations may arise associated with the fall and destruction of drywall sheets.

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Drywall on a wooden frame: arguments and counter-arguments, restrictions and installation tips

When does it make sense to mount a drywall sheet on a frame in general, and on a wooden frame in particular? In what cases is it not advisable to use a wooden crate? How and from what it is correct to assemble a wooden frame for drywall? How to perform frame sheathing and puttying GKL? In my article I will try to answer these questions.

GKL against plaster

First, let's decide whether it is worth messing with drywall at all, or is it better to use plaster in the old fashioned way.

Here are the arguments in favor of the GKL:

• High finishing speed due to a large sheet area (3 square meters with a size of 2500x1200 mm);
• The ability to eliminate significant irregularities of the base at minimal cost. Say, with a height difference between adjacent elements of a slab floor of 8-10 centimeters (yes, yes, this happens), it is very expensive and unsafe to level the ceiling with plaster: falling plaster of such thickness can cause a lot of trouble.

But for the GKL on the crate, the state of the surface under it does not matter - if only there was something to attach the frame to;

• The surface of kraft paper (gypsum core shell) has excellent adhesive properties. You can glue wallpaper of any density on it using any wallpaper glue; the tile is also perfectly glued to cement tile adhesive or home-made cement-based mortar.

Curious: I used spot-applied silicone sealant to tile the drywall over the bathtub. It was also used to seal the joints between the tiles and adjoin the apron to the bath. All seams retain absolute tightness for three years of active use of the bathroom; The tiles are more than secure.

How does drywall compare to plaster?

1. mechanical strength. I will clarify: in this parameter, gypsum sheet material is second only to cement plaster. Using plasterboard for wall decoration in a gym or workshop is a dubious idea;
2. Resistant to water with constant contact with it. Alas, even moisture-resistant drywall tolerates only high humidity. It is worth immersing the gypsum core in water - and it will get wet just like any other gypsum product. Accordingly, it would be a bad idea to use drywall without the protection of a waterproof finish for the construction of shower walls;
3. Occupied usable area of ​​the room. Walls with minor irregularities in a small room are best leveled with a thin layer of plaster: after all, even glued directly to the wall, without a crate, a GKL sheet, taking into account the thickness of the glue, will shift the surface of each wall by at least 20 mm. When mounted on a frame, each wall will move to the center of the room already by 60 - 80 mm.

Frame against glue

When is it worth mounting drywall on the frame, and when is it better to glue it directly to the wall?

Everything is simple here: if the drops, blockages and curvilinearity of the base exceeds 40 - 50 millimeters, the frame is necessary. In other cases, glue is preferable: again, it will save room space.

There are, however, two more scenarios that will make you lean towards fastening the GKL along the crate:

1. Installation of plasterboard partitions. Here, comments seem to be not required: without a frame, its skin simply has nothing to attach to;
2. Laying behind the lining of the wall of communications - water supply, sewerage, electrical wiring, ventilation ducts, etc. Hiding them behind a false wall is much easier than ditching a main wall.

In some cases (for example, when it comes to a panel partition inside an apartment), strobes of considerable width and depth are impossible in principle.

Tree versus profile

In what cases is it permissible to install drywall on a wooden frame, and when is a galvanized profile preferable?

The bar has the only advantage - cheapness. In order not to be unfounded, I will give the average prices for a bar and a profile for the Moscow region:

Next: wood, unlike galvanized steel, hygroscopic, and is also capable of change its linear dimensions and geometry depending on air humidity. On the practical side, this means that in a damp room, a wooden crate can warp and bend the wall cladding, or even lead to cracks along its seams.

Finally the tree subject to biological influences: it rots and becomes food for woodworms. Again, unlike galvanized.

1. Drywall wood frame can be used only in dry rooms. For a bathroom, kitchen or combined bathroom, you should prefer a galvanized profile;
2. The elements of the crate before assembling it must be to be treated with an antiseptic.

Loophole

There is, however, an easy way to bring wood closer to a galvanized profile in terms of performance. In order for it to completely lose its hygroscopicity and the ability to deform with fluctuations in humidity, the bar is enough impregnate with drying oil: the oils that make it up will fill the pores between the fibers in the outer layer of the tree, forming a water-impermeable shell during polymerization.

This operation has several subtleties:

• Drying oil is best applied heated in a water bath. Then it penetrates deeper into the fiber structure; accordingly, the waterproof coating will be more durable;

• It is easier not to cover the ends of a bar cut to size with drying oil with a brush, but to dip it into a jar with it. It is the ends, due to the orientation of the fibers perpendicular to the surface, that are most vulnerable to moisture;
• Drying oil dries for several days and has a strong characteristic odor. For drying the bar, it is better to allocate a separate room with good ventilation.

Material selection

What exactly is the frame for drywall made of wood made of?

It was not in vain that I cited as an example the prices for a crate a bar measuring 50x50 millimeters: it is he who is the most popular material for assembling the frames of partitions and crates (ceiling and wall).

With special requirements for the rigidity of the partition, it can also be assembled from a bar 50x100; in this case, the wide side is oriented perpendicular to the plane of the wall: this is how maximum resistance to side loads is achieved.

Finally, when mounting a wall batten, edged and unedged boards of arbitrary width can be used. It is attached to the main wall with long dowel screws or even nails in wooden choppers.

Are there any requirements for the quality of wood?

When assembling the frame or when installing the crate on suspensions - yes.

Wood should not have defects from the following list:

• Rot and damage by woodworms;
• Oblique layer (significant deviation of the direction of the wood fibers from the longitudinal axis of the bar);
• Falling knots with a diameter of more than a third of the side of the bar.

The instruction is connected with the fact that all these defects have a detrimental effect on the strength of the frame. In addition, the moisture content of the wood should not exceed 20%: when drying, the bar often warps.

Frame mounting rules

Partition

The assembly of the partition frame begins with marking the fastening lines of the upper and lower trim on the ceiling and on the floor, as well as the extreme racks on the adjacent walls. To keep the lines strictly in the same plane, use a plumb line.

Then, strapping bars and extreme racks are attached to the floor, ceiling and adjacent walls. A damper tape is laid under them, which excludes the transmission of acoustic vibrations to the capital structures of the building and thereby contributes to sound insulation. Anchor bolts or conventional dowel screws can be used to fasten the harness and racks to the walls.

The next step is the installation of racks. The step between them is determined by the requirements for the rigidity of the partition and is 40 or 60 centimeters. The width of the sheet (120 cm) must be a multiple of this step so that the seam between adjacent sheets falls exactly in the middle of the rack.

The edges of adjacent sheets, if possible, should be attached to a common element of the frame or crate for them. In this case, the likelihood of cracks at the seams is minimal.

The connections of the racks with the strapping do not experience significant operational loads - they are taken over by the sheathing of the partition, drywall, therefore, any methods of attaching the racks are acceptable:

• Hammered or angled nails or self-tapping screws;
• An insert from a trimming bar, which is attached to the harness, after which the rack is attracted to it;

• Galvanized perforated lining;
• Furniture corners;
• Insert racks half a tree with landing on glue. However, it is not suitable for frame elements impregnated with drying oil: impregnation reduces the adhesive qualities of the adhesive.

For gluing dry wood, you can use both specialized wood glues and ordinary PVA construction glue. For our purposes, the strength of its seam is quite sufficient; drying glue takes no more than 12 hours.

How to install a door in a wooden frame partition?

1. In the lower trim, a pass is made for the width of the door with the box;
2. The door leaf is wedged in the box with wooden wedges. The goal is to leave gaps after installation that do not allow the door to overwrite jambs;
3. From one of the edges of the doorway, a rack adjacent to the box is mounted;
4. A strip of mounting foam is applied to the outer surface of the box, after which it is attracted to the rack with self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from the side of the rack, their length is selected so that they go deep into the box, but do not go through it;
5. On the second side of the opening, the second rack is mounted in the same way;
6. From above, the racks are connected by a jumper;
7. All connections of racks with strapping are reinforced with galvanized lining on self-tapping screws.

A light window (for example, in the wall of a bathroom) is installed in a similar way - adjusted for the fact that its frame rests on a horizontal jumper between the uprights.

Lathing on hangers

How to assemble a wooden crate for wall cladding with significant irregularities with drywall with your own hands?

1. The assembly of the frame in this case also begins with the attachment to the floor and ceiling of the lower and upper trims. A damper tape is also placed under them. The method of attaching the harnesses is the same as in the scenario discussed above;
2. Then, extreme racks are attached to the adjacent walls through the damper flight;
3. On the main wall, strictly vertically, along the plumb line, the positions of the intermediate racks are marked (I remind you, in increments of 40 or 60 cm from center to center of the bar);
4. Along each rack with a step of 80 cm, direct suspensions are fastened with dowel-screws;
5. The racks are set according to the markings, after which the ears of the suspensions are screwed to them with wood screws 25 mm long. The free part of the ears is bent to the wall. The frame is ready for sheathing.

Lathing on gaskets

With a relatively small curvilinearity of the wall, the crate can be attached to it without hangers, using spacers from scraps of wood or plywood. In this case, as I mentioned above, you can use not only a bar, but also an unedged board.

If necessary, lumber of any width can be cut into narrow boards or a bar with a conventional hand-held circular saw with a guide frame. Sawing one board takes no more than two to three minutes.

The crate is attached to the main wall with long dowel screws or nails into pre-drilled holes with wooden chopsticks. The lower harness as such is missing; instead of it, short bars are drawn into the gap between the racks of the crate to the floor and ceiling, which will later serve to fasten the plinth and baguette.

Ceiling

The frame of a simple single-level flow is mounted in the same way as a crate on direct suspensions - adjusted for location in a horizontal plane. Thick (at least 15 mm) plywood is used to create a frame for the curved elements of a multilevel flow; when sheathing, the GKL is attracted by self-tapping screws to its end.

sheathing

How to mount drywall on a wooden frame?

For wall cladding, wall plasterboard with a thickness of 12.5 mm is used. The ceiling is usually sheathed with ceiling plasterboard 9.5 mm thick. In dry rooms, ordinary GKL (white) is used, in wet rooms - moisture resistant (blue).

Let me remind you once again: in rooms with high humidity, the wooden frame must be consistently impregnated with an antiseptic and drying oil.

To fasten the sheet, wood screws 32 mm long are used. The length of the self-tapping screws exceeds that used when mounting on a profile. The step between adjacent attachment points is 15-20 centimeters; the average consumption of fasteners is 100 self-tapping screws per sheet 2500x1200 in size.

When installing additional sheets (if the height of the wall exceeds the length of the sheet), an additional bar is laid under the seam perpendicular to the uprights. Instead, you can use a piece of board or thick (from 12 mm) plywood. The main thing is that the edges of adjacent sheets are attached to a common frame element.

Where a wall or partition does not experience deforming loads (for example, under the ceiling), you can do without laying a bar under the transverse seam. In his absence, it is especially important to correctly perform the reinforcement, which I will talk about a little later.

In rooms with high traffic or with expected significant loads on the walls (kitchen, hallway, etc.), it is better to sheathe the frame in two layers. GKL of the first layer is fastened with self-tapping screws 32 mm long; fastener consumption - 20-30 self-tapping screws per full-size sheet. The second layer of GKL is mounted with dressing of horizontal and vertical seams; for fastening, wood screws 45 mm long are used at the rate of 100 pieces per sheet.

How to cut drywall to the desired size?

• Curvilinear parts are cut with an electric jigsaw with a wood file. GKL is cut by him very quickly and without any effort, but when cutting, a huge amount of gypsum dust rises into the air. It settles on all surfaces in the room. Gypsum is especially destructive for the bearings of cooling systems for computers and laptops, so for the duration of the repair they must be kept turned off and covered with polyethylene;

• Along straight lines, the GKL is cut with a sharp knife along the ruler to a quarter of the thickness, after which it is broken at the edge of the table or any other suitable elevation.

After installation, the seams between the sheets cut to size are embroidered: a chamfer is sharply removed from the edges at an angle of 45 degrees to half the thickness of the sheet.

Reinforcement and puttying

A wall or partition sheathed with drywall is not yet ready for a fine finish: the caps of the screws and the seams between the sheets must be hidden with putty. In addition, the seams and outer corners of the walls need reinforcement and reinforcement.

Traditionally used for reinforcing seams sickle- self-adhesive fiberglass mesh with a cell size of about 2 millimeters. It is glued along the seam, after which it is filled with putty directly through the mesh cells. It is necessary to putty at least twice: gypsum putty gives a small, but quite noticeable shrinkage during drying.

External corners are reinforced:

• Galvanized perforated corner profile;
• Plastic profile with mesh.

The corner is recessed in the putty applied to the corner, after which it is covered with another layer of it.

However: I prefer to use a decorative plastic corner pasted after puttying and painting on silicone sealant to protect the corners.

In the photo - the corner of the partition, protected by a decorative plastic corner.

What putty to use to level the surface?

The most common in Russia are gypsum putties produced by the German company Knauf - HP Finish and Fugen. However, I liked the cheaper and less common ABS Saten: the mixture lives noticeably longer (at least 45 minutes versus 25-30 for Knauf products), if necessary, can be diluted with water (which increases its life time to an hour or more) and does not give lumps when mixed.

How to prepare putty?

1. Water at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6 kg of dry gypsum mixture is poured into a wide dish (I use a plastic paint bucket);
2. The mixture is poured into water, distributing as evenly as possible over its surface;
3. After 3-5 minutes, the swollen putty is mixed - manually (with a spatula) or with a mixer nozzle for a drill.

How and how to properly putty the seams, corners and caps of self-tapping screws?

• Hats are covered with two movements of a spatula 10-12 cm wide crosswise. The first sliding movement fills the recess with putty, the second ("to strip") removes its excess;
• The seams are also filled with cruciform movements of the same spatula. In this case, the seam is filled with putty as tightly as possible. Cavities in it increase the likelihood of cracks. With the second pass, the seam, together with the sickle reinforcing it, is covered with longitudinal movements of the spatula 30–35 cm wide;

• To align the outer and inner corners, it is better to use special corner spatulas.

After filling the seams and masking the caps of the GKL fasteners, they often putty over the entire area. A layer of putty about a millimeter thick completely masks the seams and does not allow the base to shine through the painting.

Next stage - grinding. GCR is ground with grids No. 80 in the first pass and No. 120 - 160 in the second pass. It is better to grind in bright oblique lighting, which will emphasize the slightest irregularities due to the shadows they cast. I use an inexpensive vibratory sander for grinding.

By the way: if necessary, intermediate grinding can be performed after filling the seams and sealing the screws. Its necessity is determined only by the state of the surface.

The smooth surface of the GKL is dedusted (I clean it of dust with an ordinary whisk) and primed with a penetrating acrylic primer. The primer will stick the remaining dust and improve the adhesion between the surface of the drywall and the finishing coat - paint or wallpaper.

Wallpaper can be glued immediately after the soil has dried, but painting will have to wait at least two weeks after puttying. If you hurry, the seams will show through any number of layers of paint due to moisture that has not completely evaporated.

Conclusion

I sincerely hope that I was able to answer all the questions that the dear reader has accumulated. As usual, the video in this article will offer additional information to your attention. Feel free to share your own experience in the comments. Good luck, comrades!

September 28, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Despite the fact that such a building material as drywall has been used everywhere quite recently, it was patented back in the 19th century in America. Its first sheets were most similar to the Napoleon cake - 10 sheets of paper glued with a thin layer of plaster. It was invented by the owner of a paper mill.

Such "paper" has gained wide popularity in the present day.

A little about drywall

Modern drywall is a complex composite material consisting of cardboard, gypsum and various additives that give it additional qualities, such as:

• Increased sound insulation.
• Fire safety.

Drywall was once called "dry plaster", but the name did not stick.

It is used for "dry" finishing of the room. That is, when using drywall, there is several times less dirt than with traditional repair work.

Drywall is available in 3 versions:

• Standard, made without additional additives.

Note!
Panels of standard drywall, depending on the thickness, are divided into ceiling and wall.

• moisture resistant;
• Fire resistant.

In recent years, Knauf, one of the main manufacturers of drywall, has released Superpol sheets, which are designed to level floor coverings. They have increased strength.

Important!
Drywall is ideal for finishing residential premises, as it is environmentally friendly and does not emit toxic substances when heated.
It has an acidity close to the acidity of human skin and naturally regulates the microclimate in the room.

Modern repair technology cannot do without it. It is thanks to drywall that it is possible to build multi-level structures, creating a modern interior design.

How to install drywall

Drywall installation is carried out using frame and frameless methods.

• frameless- sheets of drywall using special glue are attached directly to the walls.

• frame- a frame for drywall is mounted from galvanized metal profiles of a certain shape or wooden slats, and sheets are already fixed to it with self-tapping screws.

Each method of fixing drywall has its own strengths and weaknesses.

• Frameless allows you to save room space, but its installation requires even wall coverings and installation work is delayed for a long time due to the fact that before further work you need to wait until the glue hardens.
• Frame fastening makes it easy to install thermal insulation and communications, but you have to install sound insulation, and the size of the room is concealed, albeit slightly.

Important!
With the frame method of installation, wall scraping for electrical wiring can be avoided. That is, there will be practically no dust during work.

Drywall not only level the walls. When redevelopment of the premises, partitions from GKL are the best option. They are lightweight, easy to use and can be lined with anything.

Related articles:

Wooden base of plasterboard partitions

Those who, after installing partitions, want to live in comfort, with good sound insulation, and those for whom one of the main parameters is the environmental safety of the room, decide to make a frame for drywall from wood.

In order to extend the life of the structure, the choice of wooden frame parts should be approached with all seriousness.

• The cross-sectional dimensions of the cut of the selected parts for vertical racks should not be less than 40x70 mm in cross section, and 30x50 mm for horizontal ones.
• All wooden slats are necessarily impregnated with an antiseptic - in order to protect against insects, and a mixture that gives the structure fire safety.

Important!
This procedure is a necessity that will help you save money on repairs in the future.

• The frame is made from coniferous trees. The moisture content of wooden parts should not exceed 15%.

For your information!
Design requirements - the first group of fire resistance.

Tools for the job

In order to carry out the work on the manufacture of the frame, you must have the following tools at hand:

• Drill.
• Saw or hacksaw.

• Screwdriver.
• Screwdriver.
• Level.
• Mounting dowels.
• Wood screws.
• Metal corners.

Making a partition in an apartment

To make a wooden frame for drywall, you must first prepare an accurate drawing, which will indicate the locations of all doorways.

• When calculating the rigidity of the structure, it is required to take into account the number of horizontal elements.
• The required number of drywall sheets is calculated.
• The partition body is assembled. Installation begins with the strapping support bars. Fastening to the floor and ceiling is carried out with self-tapping screws and dowels.

• Vertical struts are installed.
• Horizontal support rails are fixed between the vertical posts.

The cross section of the beam of these rails is allowed to be smaller in size than that of the racks, but, nevertheless, not less than 30x50 mm.

Important!
Sheets of drywall during sewing must be shifted relative to each other on its opposite walls.

• A heater is installed on the partition mounted on one side, and possibly insulated electrical wiring.
• Sheathing begins on the side from which the insulation is fixed.

Installation of insulation is necessary to reduce the sound permeability of the structure.

As a heater, mineral fiber mats, polystyrene foam of various densities or polystyrene foam are used. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, and the decision which insulation to use depends on the purpose of the room.

Note!
Mineral wool insulation materials, such as basalt or dolomite fiber, provide additional moisture protection to the structure and reduce the fire hazard of the room.

The length of metal dowels for drywall, with which the insulation is fixed, should be at least 25-30 mm. Otherwise, the design will be unreliable and short-lived.

Wooden frame for wall cladding

It is advisable to install drywall on a wooden frame when cladding walls if their height is more than three meters or the walls have significant roughness and poor-quality plaster coating.

• The wall is marked under the frame.
• Dangerous places with weak plaster and irregularities are identified.
• The crate is installed in accordance with the measurements taken, starting with a horizontal beam, which is fixed to the floor.

• Vertical slats are mounted to the horizontal beam with an indent of 10 mm from the edge of the crate. The step between them is taken 600 mm.
• After the verticality of the structure is checked by a plumb line (level), a second horizontal beam is fixed on the ceiling, to which vertical slats are attached.
• Alignment of the structure on an uneven floor under a horizontal beam is carried out by lining chipboard scraps or wood left over from the slats.

Advice:

• In order not to make cuts in drywall, when making a crate near door or window openings, the vertical slats are shifted.
• During the subsequent sheathing with sheets, there should be no joints above window or door openings.

Installing drywall on a wooden frame with your own hands is not at all difficult, even in the absence of a partner. Even easier, if the floors are even, the process of such installation is not difficult.

There are several ways to create even walls and ceilings in the interior of the house. With one of them, drywall is attached to a wooden frame. It is made from pine or spruce bars, the cross section of which must correspond to future loads. To create a partition with a height of 2.5 - 4.0 meters, a beam of 50 × 60 or 50 × 70 mm is suitable.

Bars for a frame for drywall are made from spruce or pine trees and are carefully dried and processed.

Requirements for lumber used to create the crate

The beam must be carefully checked. It may be faint yellow or light brown in color without black or blue spots. Each part must have the correct geometric dimensions without chips, large cracks and deviations in straightness.

During construction and finishing works, it is recommended to use wood with a moisture content of about 15%. It is impossible to check this on your own, therefore, when selecting the material, you just need to make sure by touching your hand that it is not wet. Before installation, it is advisable to hold the bars in the room where they will be installed for several days.

To protect against biological decay, mold, wood bug and rodents, wood is treated with antiseptic compounds. You can use ready-made mixtures for interior work or prepare a 4% solution of sodium fluoride yourself by stirring it in hot water. The antiseptic is applied to the bars with a brush in several passes and the material is allowed to dry well.

Tools and materials for mounting a wooden frame

A master who begins to mount a wooden frame for drywall should have at hand:

• hacksaw;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• hammer;
• building level or plumb;
• coated thread;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• self-tapping screws;
• dowels, anchors, brackets or anchor plates;
• steel corners or mounting plates.

In the process of creating a partition, in addition to the bars, you will need plasterboard sheets, mineral wool, a primer, putty and finishing materials.

Marking

Before you start making a wooden frame for drywall, you need to determine the plane in which it will be installed and mark the lines of its intersection with the floor, ceiling and walls. At the same time, you need to remember about the thickness of the GKL and take it into account when marking.

The starting point is chosen at the junction line of the ceiling with one of the walls. Having attached a plumb line to it, they find a mark corresponding to it near the floor. Both points are connected by a vertical line. Drywall sheets are made with sufficient precision to be used to determine the right angle. To do this, we apply the GKL at an angle to the mark on the floor with the narrow side close to the wall. Continuing the perpendicular to the opposite wall, we find the next mark. With the help of a plumb line or level, we rise to the ceiling. We connect all four points with straight lines using a coated thread or a pencil with a ruler.

Installation of a wooden frame

The basis of the wooden frame is made up of bars located along its perimeter. They are attached in accordance with the applied markup. The manufacture of the frame begins with a support beam, which is attached to the floor with self-tapping screws, dowels or anchors, depending on the base material. If there is a doorway in the partition, two beams are taken, diverging from the passage to the walls.

When installing the frame, it must be taken into account that the drywall sheets are fixed so that the joints of the two sheets are in the middle on the bar.

In the same way, the bars are fixed to the ceiling and walls. Then vertical racks are installed in the central part of the frame. Start with the bars framing the doorway. The distance between them should be 3 - 5 cm larger than the outer size of the door frame.

Racks are installed strictly vertically with their ends close to the horizontal support and ceiling bars of the frame. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws using steel corners or mounting plates intended for assembling rafters. They are designed for heavy loads, so they will ensure communication reliability. At the height of the door frame plus 2 cm, the racks are connected with a horizontal jumper.

Between the opening and the walls evenly with a step of 40 - 60 cm put the required number of racks. For large partitions, it will have to be covered with several sheets of plasterboard. Drywall is fixed on wooden slats so that the junction of two sheets falls exactly on the central axis of the bar. Therefore, the installation of racks is carried out taking into account future cutting and installation of plasterboards.

For the same reason, if the ceiling height is greater than the length of the drywall sheet, horizontal bars are fixed at the junction of the first and second rows.

Sheathing the frame with plasterboard sheets and finishing work

Installation of GKL on a wooden frame starts from the bottom corner of the partition or from the doorway. To do this, use wood screws 35 mm. They are installed in increments of up to 250 mm, retreating from the edges by 10 - 15 mm. At the same time, the heads of the self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the sheet material, which is important for high-quality wall decoration.

If necessary, cutting drywall is cut with a construction knife, followed by a break at the place of the cut. The sheets are joined together with factory edges to each other, and the cut edges turn to the walls and ceiling.

After installing the GKL on one side of the partition, its internal space for sound insulation is filled with briquettes of mineral wool, polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene. Electrical and information cables are laid, protected from damage by corrugated tubes. Then the back side of the wall is sheathed.

After sheathing the frame with drywall, it must be primed, and then the joints and caps of the self-tapping screws should be well puttied.

The drywall sheets installed in place are treated with a primer. After it dries, all joints and caps of self-tapping screws are covered with a double layer of putty so that an absolutely flat surface is obtained. After two days, it is primed again and wallpaper, ceramic tiles or any other type of fine finish is applied.

Plasterboarding uneven walls and ceilings

If the dimensions of the room allow part of the space to be occupied by drywall, you can quickly and accurately close uneven walls and ceilings with it. For this, a wooden frame is also made, which is attached to building structures.

When sheathing the wall, repeat all the operations described for mounting the jumper, placing the frame close to it. To do this, it is allowed to take bars and slats of a smaller section, since they can additionally be attached with brackets or anchor plates to the wall to be closed.

Some masters assemble the frame on a flat floor, and only then put it in the right place and fix it. All cavities between the bars are filled with heat-insulating materials. Install drywall on the rails, trying to prevent the presence of joints above the door and window openings, since there will be no support vertical racks.

When installing the GKL on the ceiling, the frame bars are attached to the walls strictly horizontally and at the same level. After that, an internal crate is made with fixing it to the extreme bars and to the ceiling slabs. Ceiling plasterboard has a slightly smaller thickness and weight, which makes it easier to install.

A wooden ceiling can be perfectly sheathed with drywall. This finish is not only very beautiful. The technology by which drywall is fastened to a wooden ceiling or to a ceiling on metal profiles allows you to create multi-level ceilings that will be decorated with various borders or other relief elements.

In addition, such a ceiling is easily putty, you can embed lighting in it, and glue stylish stucco molding on its surface. It is also important that such a ceiling will breathe perfectly, and the natural microclimate will not be disturbed. Drywall is a modern environmentally friendly material that allows you to create miracles with the interior of the house.

Methods for attaching drywall to a wooden ceiling

Installation of drywall is most relevant when there is a need for facing a very uneven ceiling, especially in those rooms in which the height is three or more meters.

To date, there are several ways to attach drywall to a wooden ceiling.

Namely:

1. On adhesive materials (special adhesives for drywall);
2. On wooden slats-profiles;
3. On metal.

Drywall in very rare cases is attached to the adhesive material, directly to the ceiling itself. This is only possible if the ceiling is perfectly flat. In addition, this method is not practical, since it is likely that the GKL (gypsum boards) will sag or fall off altogether.

Therefore, we will not pay special attention to this method in this article.

Most often, options are used using a specially prepared frame. And then we will consider in detail how to hem drywall to the ceiling and the technology for manufacturing these frames.

Wooden slat frame

Such a frame allows you to hide all sorts of flaws in the ceiling, while not sacrificing much of the height of the room. Plasterboard on wooden slats is more preferable if you need to mount a simple single-level ceiling. This method is cheaper than using a metal frame.

However, only high-quality bars and slats, perfectly dried in the chamber, are suitable for the frame, which subsequently will not be deformed and will be able to withstand a decent load for many years.

• Before proceeding with the installation work, you need to visually determine the lowest point of the ceiling. It is from her that we mark the design position of the frame: we retreat 5 cm, and with the help of a level we draw a flat horizontal line around the entire perimeter of the room. If you do this work correctly, then your end point will coincide with the start.
• Further along this horizontal along the entire perimeter, with the help of self-tapping screws, we fix the rail.

Please note: how correctly you calculate and design the frame will depend on the success of all subsequent work!

• Next, we fix the base bars to the ceiling surface with such a step that will ensure the reliability of fastening the hemmed system. The recommended distance between the base bars, located in parallel, should not be more than 0.8 m.
• In a perpendicular direction, we attach load-bearing strips to them, which will be the basis on which drywall can later be hemmed. In the event that you have a small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling, a single-base frame will suffice, in which the adjusted wooden bars to the ceiling will simultaneously serve as carriers for fixing the plasterboard. Of course, the step of fastening the bars in such a frame will decrease and will be about 0.5 m.

Installation of a wooden frame and drywall

• We fasten the bars to the ceiling with self-tapping screws on dowels with a fastening step of 0.8 m. In the case of a two-layer sheathing, the step is reduced, because double the weight of the binder. The attachment points of the bars located in the neighborhood should not be on the same straight line. They need to be alternated in a checkerboard pattern.
  Installation of drywall on a wooden ceiling is carried out with a step of attaching the sheet to the frame of 0.15 m in the case of a single-layer filing. The fastening step for the first layer can be made 0.5 m when filing in two layers. When fixing the second hemmed layer, the pitch of the screws will be 0.15 m.

Note!
The length of the screws is 25 - 35 mm. This screw size is perfect for 12.5mm drywall thickness.
If the thickness of the sheets is different, it is necessary to select fasteners based on the depth of entry into the material.

Fastening beams to the ceiling

The base bars to the wooden ceiling can be carried out on straight metal hangers (brackets) or adjustable metal hangers with a wire hanger. Through the use of direct suspensions, it is possible to increase the distance between the plasterboard and the ceiling surface.

We fasten the brackets to the beam on both sides with self-tapping screws. We shoot the brackets themselves to the supporting ceiling and bend them along the width of the bar at a right angle. If you need to increase the distance between the ceiling and the plasterboard, there is a D111 system (suspended ceiling on a wooden frame).

Drywall on a wooden ceiling on a wooden frame allows the use of wire hangers. The frame elements on the hangers are held by special clamps, which allow for quick installation and the necessary height adjustment.

Metal carcass

How to fix drywall to using a metal frame (see also)? In fact, it is not so difficult if there is a detailed instruction. The metal profile is a more reliable and durable material for creating a frame under the gypsum board than wood.

Before installing the frame, you need to decide to what height the plasterboard ceiling will be lowered. Between the plasterboard and the ceiling, you can install not only lamps, but also various communications (ventilation, water supply and electrical wiring).

You will need 2 people to install the frame and support the sheets. One sheet of drywall weighs about 15 kg.

What is the frame made of

The metal frame consists of guide profiles. They hold the main frame of the entire structure and rack profiles are fixed to them, on which drywall is mounted. The cross section of the profiles has a U-shape. And rack profiles are similar to the letter “C”.

The length of the profiles is always three meters. If it is necessary to increase the length of the profiles, use the butt joints, which are inserted inside and fastened with self-tapping screws. With the help of suspensions, it is possible to correct and level the plane of even the most crooked ceiling and give the frame structure relative rigidity.

In any hardware store you can find very convenient direct hangers, which you will use in your work. Other types of suspensions are quite difficult to adjust, and they are also quite unreliable due to the manufacturing defects.

Rack profiles can be perpendicularly fastened using cruciform joints, which are also called crabs. If you are going to install the ceiling in a small room, then this will not take you much time and effort, but it is still better to find yourself an assistant.

Frame installation

To install the frame and GCR, you will need the following tools:

• gun for driving dowels;
• knife for cutting drywall sheets;
• felt-tip pen;
• level (2-3 meters);
• drill;
• hammer;
• screwdriver;
• self-tapping screws for drywall, metal and dowels;
• metal profiles;
• drywall panels.

First you need to determine where in your room is the lowest corner, and then measure the distance from it that you need to lower the frame. After that, draw a horizontal line around the entire perimeter with a level and a pencil and be guided clearly along it when fixing the guide profiles.

These profiles, depending on the type of surface, are fixed either with dowels or self-tapping screws in increments of 20-30 cm - the main thing is that it is firmly and securely attached to the wall.

After that, we proceed to the installation of rack profiles. In the event that the width of your room is approximately 2.5 meters, then a metal frame with sufficient rigidity will be quite enough. The assembly of such a frame is very simple.

You just need to attach the rack profiles to the wall and fasten them. It is necessary to fix them at a distance of 0.4 meters, using the drawn lines located on the side walls.

Next, cut the rack profiles along the length of the room with metal scissors and insert them into the guides, and then fasten the resulting structure with self-tapping screws. To give it rigidity, you need to use special suspensions.

They need to be fixed to the ceiling with dowels-nails in increments of 60-80 centimeters, and then further improve strength with self-tapping screws. If you do not use suspensions, then the frame will not be securely fixed in the end, and after puttying and painting all joints will crack.

In the event that you will install a chandelier or ceiling lamp, then it is necessary to mount mortgages, since plasterboard sheets will not be able to support the weight of your lamp. Attach several rack profiles to the frame for the future location of the lighting fixture.

After you have mounted the frame, you can start installing the GKL. For this you will need: a clerical knife and a felt-tip pen. We make markings on a sheet of drywall according to the size of the room and cut it off.

Then we fasten the plasterboard to the ceiling using self-tapping screws with a pitch of 25 cm. It is easier to screw them in with a special screwdriver.

Slightly sink the heads of the fixing screws into the drywall panel. The next step is gluing the sickle mesh to the joints (to avoid cracks), then primer and putty.