The question arises: how much timber should be purchased for a log house? How to choose? How to arrange delivery? How and where to store on the site?
How to choose?
If you are building on your own, then it is better to choose pine. It is much easier to process (and by weight) than larch. Modern impregnations will allow pine timber to almost equal larch timber in terms of moisture resistance. And for the price, pine is much more profitable than larch, and even more so cedar. But if there are funds to hire a team, then you can think about a more moisture-resistant larch. And it is physically difficult for one to build from larch.
We did not consider glued and profiled timber due to its high cost. We chose the usual pine timber. It is necessary, of course, to choose it yourself, directly on the basis of building materials.
- The blue and grayness of wood signal the presence of mold processes. Do not take such a bar. Although at the base you will be convinced of the opposite.
- It is better to buy winter harvesting timber, it “leads” less, and it is drier. Many bases also provide a service for storing timber until spring. Well, if it was not possible to buy a “winter” timber, then try to fold the log house as quickly as possible, since every day it will be “led” more and more, that is, acquire a stable bend along the longitudinal axis.
- A bar curved in one plane is called a "beam", and a bar curved in two planes at once is called a "propeller". If the “rocker” can still somehow be corrected during laying, then it’s bad with the “propellers”, such beams are very difficult to lay. When selecting a bar, in no case do not take the "propellers"! You can check the beam for bending by standing at its end and, squinting, look at its other end.
- Of course, it is better to buy timber at bases where there is a roof over the material stored there. It would be ideal if you also use the services of drying the forest in a special drying chamber.
- You should not buy a timber of the third grade, better than the first or second. Savings in price will then affect the quality of the log house, and the interior decoration will become more expensive.
- It is better to buy a bar loosened on a band sawmill than on a regular one, since I drank on a band saw. Then it will be easier to process such a bar with a planer.
- If it is possible to carefully choose the forest at the base (for example, if there is a good relationship with the owner of the base), then you can also be guided by the principle: take the bar with the “rings” located more densely, that is, the northern part of the tree. This side is then placed on the outside. This is how our great-grandfathers built it. And if they allow you to choose also with a minimum of knots and wane (bark remnants), then this is generally wonderful.
How much do you need to buy timber for a log house?
First, you need to understand what kind of beam you will use. Section 15x15 (or more) - for country houses and cottages. We built an ordinary country house, so our choice fell on the most common section 10x15 (15 in height). And, of course, you need to know all three measurements of the house - length, width, height, number and parameters of partitions, windows, doors. You need to know how many ceiling beams and floor logs will be - for this you can use the table for calculating the sections of wooden single-span beams and logs.
There are two ways to calculate the amount of timber. The first method allows you to quickly and easily orient how many cubes you need, but it is inaccurate. In this method, for ease of calculation, we do not take into account windows and doors. For example, for a 6x6 house 2.5m high (from the foundation to the top of the ceiling beams) with one partition along the entire length of the house, you will need: 6m * 2.5m height * 0.1m (beam width) * 5 walls \u003d 7.5 cubic meters. Plus on the ceiling beams and floor logs: according to the section calculation table, for example, 10 beams 10x15 6-meter per floor and the same amount per ceiling = 6m (length) * 0.1m (width) * 0.15m (height) * 10 pieces *2 = 1.8 cu. Only 9.3 cubes. We take with a small margin of 6-7% in terms of waste, a total of 10 cubic meters. Piece by piece, this will be: 10 cubes: (the volume of one bar is 6m * 0.1m * 0.15m) \u003d 10 cubes: 0.09 cubes \u003d approximately 111 bars.
The second method allows you to more accurately calculate, since both windows and doors are taken into account. We start in the same way, but it will be necessary to subtract the window and door openings. For example, in the above house there will be two doors - the entrance and in the partition, this is minus two doors in volume occupying 2m (door height) * 0.9m (door width) * 0.1m (opening thickness) \u003d 0.18 cubic meters each. We also minus the windows: 5 windows * 1.2m (window height) * 1.2m (window width) * 0.1m (opening thickness) \u003d 5 * 0.144 \u003d 0.72 cubic meters for all windows. Together with two doors, this is 0.72 cubic meters + 2 * 0.18 cubic meters \u003d 1.08 cubic meters. But here it must be taken into account that in order to tie the box of the log house, it is necessary to make jumpers on the windows - one piece each, and on the doors - two pieces on each. That is, it will be 5 windows * 1.2m * 0.1m * 0.15m + 2 doors * 2 lintels * 0.9m * 0.1m * 0.15m = 0.144 cubic meters. This amendment must be subtracted from 1.08 cubic meters, you get 0.936 cubic meters. We divide this by the volume of one bar (0.09 cubic meters), and we get that we would buy about 10 unnecessary bars. Thus, according to the second calculation method - more complex, we need to buy 101 bars.
How to arrange delivery?
Firstly, you need to understand whether the country road can withstand the car with the entire volume of the forest at a time. Our road can withstand only about 6 tons, we remember this from the mixer-concrete mixer, so we divided the entire volume into two deliveries. The weight of one cube of standard moisture pine is from 460kg to 620kg, larch from 650kg to 800kg. On the first day we brought 5 tons, on the second day 4.5 tons. Of course, the days for delivery must be chosen dry, unless, of course, you have asphalt rolled up to your house.
It is better to order a self-loader, since it is still a pleasure to unload the same 100 beams weighing 72 kg each.
Fig. 1 It is better to ask the truck driver to use tarpaulin tapes when unloading, rather than chains - quite large chips are torn out of the timber with chains
Do not be afraid to order from the base located in the neighboring area of the city. At wholesale bases, the price of timber is always cheaper than in hardware stores located along the way to the dacha. Yes, delivery will cost a little more, but the choice of timber at wholesale depots is wider. Yes, and usually self-loaders are taken for at least three hours of work, so the game is not worth the candle here.
How and where to store on the site?
When the loader brings you timber, he will most likely dump everything just on the ground, in one heap. So you need to immediately lay out the timber, even if you are sure that the construction will be completed in a week.
It is better to store in the shade. The surface must be even. Try to avoid slopes and bumps, carefully check everything with a building level. Lay, for example, knocked-down shields left from the formwork to protect the bottom row of timber from dew. Under the shields - bricks to make it higher. Ideally, if the height from the ground is 30 centimeters. Or you can use not knocked down shields, but every meter and a half on the ground put old sleepers or logs, or other old, but strong and thick material. Also check the level.
Fig. 2 Our forest lay on shields
We put bars of the same thickness on the shields, then the first row of bars, 10 pieces in a row, keep the distance between adjacent bars about 1 cm. Do not make our mistake, do not put the bars from the old painted fence, although it is convenient - the entire bar is of the same thickness, but the paint will remain on the bar. Then stack each row through the bars. The distance between the bars is about 70cm. And one more thing - store it so that the beams lie with the narrower side horizontally, and the high side vertically. That is, a 10x15 beam should be laid vertically with a 15-centimeter edge, and horizontally with a 10-centimeter edge. It is necessary.
Fig. 3 Do not forget that the bar must be of the same thickness for each row, otherwise the bar will lead literally in a day!
At the end of laying, be sure to organize a canopy over the stack or cover it with slate sheets
Fig. 4 Press the slate sheets with bricks, since with a strong wind the slate can easily be blown away
And finally, remember that when buying a forest of natural moisture, you need to put it into action as soon as possible. It is better to start building from the very next day, since even with properly organized storage, when drying under natural conditions, cracks form in the beam, and the rejection of the material after a month or two can be up to 10%.
Wooden houses are the most environmentally friendly and favorable for human life. Not without reason, wood is perhaps the first material that began to be used to build a home. Modern technologies have given this material new possibilities and improved its properties. Using various processing methods, types of timber are made from wood for the construction of houses of various sizes and designs.
When choosing a timber for the construction of housing in a country house or a large residential building, you need to remember that the requirements for the material in each case will be different
Reasons to choose timber for building a house
A timber beam allows you to exclude some of the properties of wood that complicate the construction process, making it more laborious. The bar is made of a unified profile and length. Folding a house out of it will turn out quickly. If you carefully calculate the required volume, you can avoid unnecessary waste of material, which will significantly reduce the estimated cost of construction.
Glued laminated timber is not subject to shrinkage, does not crack under the influence of the surrounding climate. It does not lose properties during long-term operation. When laying a beam with flat edges, a flat wall is formed, it is easy to cover it with finishing material or insulation.
Types of timber for building houses and sizes, advantages and disadvantages
Let's figure out what kind of timber is for building a house. There are 4 types of material:
unprofiled from an array;
non-profiled glued;
profiled from the array;
profiled glued.
Ordinary building block
This option is a blank of logs with planed lateral semicircular edges. They are given a square section, with a side size of 100 to 250 mm. Before use, the material is dried in natural conditions.
Bars of different sizes are selected depending on the purpose of the future structure
Its use in construction cannot be called the best solution. Suitable for the construction of simple building structures. It has certain disadvantages, we list them:
naturally dried wood undergoes shrinkage, warping and cracking during operation;
loose adjoining of the bars to each other leads to the need to insulate and seal the gaps between them after a while;
the material is not subjected to finishing, so it is required to finish the surface in order to get a beautiful and neat wall;
requires additional strengthening of load-bearing walls and corners of the house;
impregnation with special compounds is necessary to give the structure fire and bacterial resistance.
Of course, this is a fairly cheap and widely available material. If you agree to incur additional costs in order to refine it to the desired qualities, then this option will be quite acceptable.
Profiled timber
The same whole logs are used for it, as for the usual planed one. Processing is carried out on woodworking equipment with precise settings. It allows you to get a perfectly smooth surface and ideal dimensions.
The profiled beam allows the material to adhere tightly to each other and during the operation of the house to prevent drafts between the cracks
The process differs in that the sawn logs are first dried to 22% moisture content or less, and then further work is carried out with them. The connecting planes have a comb or tenon-groove. When the comb comes into contact with adjacent bars, a tight joint between the crowns is obtained. The thorn groove allows you to put insulation in it, which creates a tight connection of the crowns that does not allow air and moisture to pass through.
Among the shortcomings of such material, the preservation of wood defects that can exist inside the log, and the obligatory time for shrinkage, as it is inherent in all types of wooden structures, are noted.
On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of houses from double timber from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".
Glued laminated timber
This option has a calibrated section, the connecting surfaces are made in the form of a comb or a spike. Sometimes it is given the shape of a rounded log - a D-beam. Outwardly, the wall made of it looks like a natural log wall, which is now very popular.
A house made of glued laminated timber is much faster ready for use, but it is important that the lamellas are glued together with high-quality glue
Such material is made of separate wooden plates, they are glued together with a special glue under pressure. It has a number of positive aspects, namely:
A well-finished surface has a finished look, does not require additional finishing. The presence of locks creates a dense wall without gaps.
The design of the bar eliminates warping, it does not crack and is not subject to deformation during operation.
The constructed building does not experience shrinkage. This significantly reduces the construction time.
Disadvantages:
The high price of the material, in comparison with conventional timber.
The glue included in the timber makes it less environmentally friendly.
The microclimate in the house will be different from the conditions that arise in a real wooden structure. In houses made of glued wood, ventilation must be done
On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of building houses from double timber. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".
Beam LVL
The technology of its production is similar to the production of glued beams. Only the material used for it differs. For manufacturing, they take veneer from various trees, 3 mm thick. In adjacent layers of veneer, the direction of the fibers coincides.
Veneered timber is quite expensive at a cost, it is often used for individual components of the building
It is a strong and flexible material, but very expensive. It is used to perform individual constructions of the house. In most cases, building an entire house out of it is unprofitable.
Which timber is better for building a house should be determined taking into account the requirements for it and the availability of material resources from the developer. A well-dried and properly processed ordinary planed timber will serve no worse than expensive glued material.
Video description
About the features of the LVL beam and its use in construction, see the following video:
Types of timber connection
When erecting a log house, it is necessary to connect individual elements when crossing at an angle or when the elements are not long enough. Several types of connections are used.
The most popular and convenient compounds are with and without residue, in a cup or in a tooth.
Connecting with the remainder
One way connection. One side of the beam is cut across the element, the width of the cut is equal to the width of the attached element. This is the easiest and most commonly used method.
The connection of the bars with the remainder is used more often than others, and the fastening of such a bar is more reliable.
A double-sided lock requires making cuts at the top and bottom of the bar. Their depth is a quarter of the thickness of the element. The use of this technology creates a high-quality connection, but will require the work of experienced carpenters.
The four-way connection is the most complex and the most reliable and accurate. Cuts are made on all sides of the bar. The building is assembled like a constructor - quickly and efficiently. In this case, all dimensions must be exactly observed, the cuts are made strictly at right angles.
Connection without residue
This species has many variations. Here are the frequently used ones.
Butt connection. It is carried out using studded metal plates, they are fastened with nails or staples. For this purpose, connecting keys are also used, which fix the joint well, preventing the bars from moving and turning.
In this case, it is necessary to use additional fasteners, otherwise the house may lead to the side.
It is good to use the connection in the spike. The spike may be in the shape of a triangle or a trapezoid. The root spike is popular. A groove is cut out on one of the bars, a spike of the appropriate size is cut out in the other. With this connection, you can use a heater made of vegetable felt or jute fiber.
The choice of timber thickness for building a house
The range of unified timber sizes has the following values: 100, 150, 200, 250 mm. The main requirement when determining the thickness of the walls of the house is that it must give a certain strength to the structure, have sufficient heat capacity to create a favorable climate in the house.
To determine which timber is best for a 150 or 200 mm house, you should know which house you will be building. For a one-story building, a thickness of 150 mm is sufficient. If the exterior decoration or wall insulation is still being done, then this is undoubtedly.
For two-story buildings, a stronger and more rigid structure is needed. In this case, a section of 200x200 mm will be justified.
To build a house for seasonal living in a country house or a bathhouse, if they are not insulated, a beam with a section of 150x150 mm is used.
For such a house, for temporary residence, a simple beam of medium thickness is enough
If you build a residential building for permanent residence of people, it will have to be heated. The walls of such a block house must be insulated, otherwise it will not meet modern energy saving requirements.
It is known that the thermal conductivity of wooden walls depends little on their thickness. The difference between the walls of 150 and 100 mm of timber will be 12% of the heat. From this we conclude that insulated walls can be made thinner.
Video description
How different types of timber can differ:
What to consider when choosing a bar: basic rules
Using the right material is the key to successful construction. This also applies to wooden structures. What we pay attention to when buying it:
Decide in advance which timber to build a house from. A one-story house has enough material, with a section of 150x150 mm. When erecting two-story structures, use a beam of 200x200 mm.
In the country version, use a simple planed timber, previously dried in a natural way. For a residential building, glued structures are needed. A beam with a profiled joint, dried in a chamber, is suitable.
Attention should be paid to the quality of the product, it must have the correct symmetrical sectional shape, there should be no irregularities and curvature. Select grade A or AB.
Use profile D timber instead of rounded logs.
Types of profiled timber for a country house
Conclusion
The choice of material must be determined at the design stage, taking into account all emerging situations. You should not save too much by purchasing cheap material for a residential building in which you will live permanently. A modern high-quality wooden beam will allow you to build the house of your dreams.
It is not difficult to choose a house from a profiled beam, the project of which was carried out by a competent specialist. The layouts of such houses are well thought out and comfortable. The well-planned building, erected by professional builders, pleases with comfort and quality. But the material of construction is also responsible for the quality.
Profiled timber can be of various types of profile, section, humidity, different types of wood. Additionally, glued laminated timber is isolated. Each of these types of bars is different in appearance. Allocate straight and D-shaped timber.
For the average person, this may seem complicated and confusing, but when ordering a house from a bar, he should understand a little about the types of timber.
The difference between a profiled beam and a conventional one
A simple beam has a rectangular or square shape. Conventionally, it can be called a square "log". The profiled beam has various recesses and spikes for a tighter fit of the beams. This feature is the beam profile.
A simple beam has one advantage. This is the price per cubic meter. The disadvantages include high ventilation of the interventional seams, increased cracking, unaesthetic appearance and the likelihood of damage to the beam by a fungus. Also a serious drawback is considered a slight difference in size. This can lead to the appearance of differences in the location of the crowns and the mixing of seams between them.
At the same time, the profiled beam has strictly specified dimensions and does not allow either the blowing of the seams or their mixing. Such a beam has high external characteristics and does not require additional finishing of the finished structure.
It should also be noted that a simple bar is most often of natural moisture, as well as profiled. But a bar with a profile can also be purchased dry. The wood moisture factor primarily affects the shrinkage of the house. And if a house shrinks more evenly from a profiled timber of natural moisture, then building from a simple one is more unpredictable. The development of the woodworking industry made it possible to expand the number of types of timber with a profile.
Types of timber profile
The production of profiled timber takes place on machines according to special templates. The accuracy of manufacturing ensures a snug fit of the bars to each other and excludes moisture from entering the wall. This is achieved due to the profile on the bar. There are five profile types:
- One bevel.
- Two bevels.
- Several chamfers ("comb").
- Beveled bevel.
- Finnish profile.
For internal walls, a beam with one chamfer is used. This profile is suitable for summer houses, baths and internal partitions. External walls require a beam with two chamfers, with a "comb" or a Finnish profile. Also, a different thickness of the beam section is applicable to external walls.
Section of profiled timber
The bar is made in several sizes: 100x100; 100x150; 150x150; 150x200 and 200x200. These are indicators of the height and thickness of the beam. The thickness of the beam is important for all-weather structures. Summer buildings or buildings in warm places do not require a large thickness of timber, 100 mm is enough for this. Also, such a beam is used for internal partitions.
The construction of buildings for use in winter requires a greater thickness of timber. In this case, a beam with a cross section of 150 mm or 200 mm is used.
A beam with a cross section of 150x200 and 200x200 is less commonly used in the construction of houses due to the increased cost of such material. This size of timber is required for construction in cold regions, with strong and prolonged sub-zero temperatures.
Aesthetic characteristics of the timber
Ordinary timber requires additional finishing or refining of its surface to acquire a beautiful appearance. Profiled timber already has high aesthetic data. Buildings made of profiled timber do not require further external finishing and look neat and beautiful.
Also, profiled timber can be made in two versions of appearance. The classic look of a beam with a profile allows you to get smooth, even walls both outside the building and inside. The type of timber with a D-shape creates an imitation of a log house, while maintaining even walls in the rooms.
The project of a house made of profiled timber
The Terem Stroy company builds houses from various types of timber. There are many ready-made house designs available. The construction of profiled timber is spreading more and more. The main thing is that such buildings were erected by competent specialists.
Construction timber of natural moisture
Country houses, baths and not expensive houses for permanent residence are advantageous to build from freshly sawn timber of natural moisture.
Such lumber is much cheaper than profiled or glued beams. Assembling the walls of a house from a building beam is quite simple and, if certain rules are followed, allows you to build a reliable and durable house.
The figure below shows a variant of an unburied strip foundation, combined with a basement, for a one-story house with an attic and with walls made of timber.
Two options for arranging a strip foundation for a one-story house made of timber: a - a shallow foundation for a load-bearing wall; b - not buried foundation for the bearing wall; c - a shallow foundation for a self-supporting wall. 1 - foundation tape; 2 - air hole; 3 - sand cushion; 4 - top and bottom layer of crushed stone 5-10 cm; 5 - backfill; 6 - vertical backfilling of the construction site; 7 - vertical backfilling of slopes around an unburied foundation; 8 - bottom and top waterproofing of the basement. The tape monolithic foundation - the basement shown in the figure is designed for building a house on weak peaty soils of the "former swamp", with a high level of groundwater.
The foundation strip of concrete grade B25 is reinforced at the lower and upper levels with three longitudinal bars of the main reinforcement of class A-III, with a diameter of 12 mm. The value of the protective layer of concrete for reinforcement in foundations - 50 mm.
To increase the bearing capacity of the soil, reduce the degree of its heaving, as well as to drain surface water from the house, soil is dumped within the boundaries of the foundation, plus at least 1.5 meters outside, pos. 6 on the image. Backfilling is carried out with non-heaving sandy soil.
For soils with a higher bearing capacity, the width of the base of the foundation can be reduced to 500 - 350 mm.
sand pillow, pos.3, laid in layers of 100 mm. on a layer of washed crushed stone rammed into natural soil pos.4. Each layer of sand under the sole of the foundation is carefully rammed.
On a sand cushion under the base of the foundation, a layer of rubble is again laid and rammed, pos.4. Compacted crushed stone is shed with heated bitumen, which, after solidification, creates a waterproofing film under the base of the foundation. The bitumen film prevents cement laitance from leaving the sand when pouring the foundation, and subsequently does not let water through the capillaries of the concrete foundation tape.
The side surfaces of the foundation in contact with the ground are smeared twice with heated bituminous mastic. The concrete surface is primed before applying the mastic.
For more information about the construction of various designs of shallow foundations, see the links above.
A house with a grillage on piles with a basement floor is more expensive, more difficult to build and operate than a house on a shallow or not buried foundation with.
Traditionally, a wooden house is made with a basement and a cold underground - leaving a space between the ground and the floor of the lower floor.
The advent of new thermal insulation materials makes it possible to build a wooden house without a basement with cheaper, warmer and more durable floors on the ground:
To learn how to make such a floor in a house from a bar, click on the picture The lower strapping of the walls of the timber
The bars of the lower strapping along the contour of the walls are laid on the basement tape through the waterproofing layer. The surface of the plinth is coated with bituminous mastic, on which a layer of waterproofing is laid.
Outside, the dimensions of the lower trim are recommended to be 50-70 less than the dimensions of the foundation mm. from each side. Sheathing bars are supported on the outer ledge of the foundation, and the joint between and the strapping is covered with a metal sheet - a low tide. In addition, if the walls hang heavily from the foundation, then it looks ugly.
The joint of the lower trim and the base is covered with a metal sheen. The ebb sheets are fixed on the strapping beam with self-tapping screws. Wall cladding is performed over the ebb. The bars of the lower trim and the wooden parts of the basement are recommended to be planed and treated with a protective antiseptic. The bioprotective composition must be intended for the treatment of raw wood. Planed and impregnated wood does not rot longer.
Do not coat raw wood with oil- or bitumen-based compounds. The depth of impregnation with such compositions will be small, and the waterproof film on the surface of the timber will conserve moisture inside the wood.
Bioprotection is effective only during the first few years after application, protecting the wood during its drying period.
To protect the strapping beams from moisture for a long time, it is recommended under the beams, on the basement waterproofing, to lay a gasket along the entire length dry antiseptic board wrapped with roofing felt.
Modern advanced builders make such gasket between trim and plinth made of extruded polystyrene foam(penoplex, etc.) 40 thick mm.
The gasket protects the beams from moisture, which can accumulate on the surface of the plinth waterproofing as a result of vapor condensation or soaking. By changing the thickness of the gasket, you can align the strapping bars to the horizon.
The bars of the lower harness are interconnected with construction brackets or galvanized steel linings.
After assembling and checking the diagonals (rectangularity) of the strapping frame, its position on the foundation tape is marked with paint - marks are applied to the timber and waterproofing. This is necessary to control the position of the frame during the installation of walls.
It is not recommended to fasten the strapping bars to the foundation. It should be remembered that during the drying process, the dimensions of the beam decrease, and the dimensions of the foundation remain constant. Temporary fasteners can be installed that fix the position of the piping frame on the foundation only for the period of installation of walls.
Socle ceiling of a wooden house from a bar
For the construction of a traditional basement floor, the structural scheme "beams - logs" is most often used.
Beams from a bar or boards on an edge it is better to lay on the ledge of the base. Such a ceiling design, when the beams are loosely connected to the strapping beams, provides better safety and ease of replacement of wooden parts in the basement of the house. Moisture from the beams is not transferred to the strapping beam, and vice versa. If needed the floor beam or strapping beam can be replaced relatively easily.
From above, across the beams, bars are fixed - logs. Insulation is laid between the beams and between the lags. Slabs or black floor boards are laid on the logs.
This cover design allows:
- Arrange the logs with a step convenient for laying subfloor slabs.
- Get a rigid structure and a total floor height of at least 200 mm. using cheaper lumber of a smaller section. Such a ceiling height is necessary for laying insulation plates of the required thickness between the beams and lags.
The construction of the basement only on beams, without a log, is used when using thick boards as a subfloor - 40 mm. and more, and beams with a height of 200 mm.
Beams should be laid so that there was a ventilation gap between their ends and the strapping (2 cm) . This is done with the help of gaskets, which are removed after fastening the beams with brackets or steel plates (see Fig., Node B). The end of the beam must rest on the plinth for a length of at least 120 mm.
The technology for installing beams is simple. First, mount the extreme beams and align them in a horizontal plane. After that, a board is placed on the edge between them and intermediate beams are installed on it. The work is usually controlled visually, and if necessary, a level is applied. Temporary technological flooring from boards is laid on the beams.
On the base, the ends of the beams are laid in the same way as the strapping beam, through a layer of waterproofing and leveling pads.
Before installing the basement, the space under the floor is thoroughly cleaned of wood residues and other debris that can rot. The surface of the earth under the floor is covered with sandy soil with a layer thickness of 10 cm . and ram it.
Over sand preparation the soil in the subfield over the entire surface is covered with rolled waterproofing based on bituminous materials with careful gluing of the joints of the panels. Waterproofing is wrapped on the walls of the basement and glued to them.
A modern solution that provides comfort and saves on heating costs is a device.
To learn how to make such a warm floor without a concrete screed, click on the picture. Double strapping of walls from a bar
There is another version of the device for the lower strapping of a log house - double strapping. The double strap design is well shown in the video clip.
The purpose of the double strapping device is to the floor beams rested on the protrusion of the lower beam, without cutting into the upper beam of the strapping.
The time will come, and, as mentioned above, such an independent laying of beams will make it quite easy to replace defective beams and strapping bars. In addition, the durability of wooden strapping parts is increased.
According to building codes the ends of the beams must rest on the lower beam for a length of at least 100 mm. Therefore, the lower beam is recommended to choose a width of at least 200 mm.
Double strapping is beneficial to use in structures, when the width of the basement (grillage) does not allow floor beams to rest on it.
In country log houses on piles or columnar foundations, a separate grillage is often not made. The lower beam of the strapping is laid directly on the pile heads or foundation columns. In this design, the lower beam of the double strapping actually serves as a grillage. Floor beams in this case are often cut into the upper strapping beam. This is a cheaper and less durable option.
Three ways to connect timber in the corners of the walls
When building houses or baths, the following three methods of connecting beams at the corners of walls are most popular:
- Connection "to the floor of the tree." At the ends of the bars, horizontal cuts are made in half the thickness and the ends are laid on top of each other. The parts in the connection must be fastened with building brackets, galvanized steel linings or dowels. The connection is easy to do, but requires additional fastening of parts and is “cold”, due to easily blown gaps.
- Connection in a one-sided key groove is an analogue of the connection, which is traditionally used in log cabins from round logs. The connection is “warm”, strong, but difficult to implement in a construction site. Most often, in log cabins, it is used in the manufacture of parts in the factory.
- In dressing with a root spike - the most common corner connection of the bars. The profile of such a connection is quite easy to mark and cut out. The gaps in the tongue-and-groove lock are sealed by pushing the interventional insulation from above.
The "wood floor" connection is usually used in the corners to fasten the beams of the lower trim of the building.
Connections of partitions from a bar with an external wall
The connection of the beam of the inner wall - the partition with the crown of the outer wall of the groove - thorn type turns out to be “warm”, since it does not have through joints to the outside. This connection is easy to make.
"Warm" connection of the beams of the partition and the outer wall. 1- main beam; 2 - dobor bar; 3 - partition beam In every fourth crown of the log house, the partition beam is fastened to the wall beam with building brackets, or galvanized steel overlays.
The figure below shows the connection node in the crown of three bars at once - the outer wall, the bay window and the inner wall - the partition.
The connection of the beam in the crowns of the outer wall, the bay window and the inner wall - partitions The connection of the bars in this unit is made using rectangular keys that are inserted into the grooves in the parts to be joined.
In one crown, the end of the beam of the outer wall is adjacent to the end of the beam of the bay window, and the end of the beam of the partition is adjacent to the beam of the wall. In the next crown, the ends of the beam of the outer wall and the bay window are adjacent from different sides to the beam of the partition.
Timber for houses, baths in your city
Steel perforated fasteners for timber
The wooden parts of a house made of timber are traditionally connected and fastened together with the help of tie-ins, cuts, spikes, grooves of various configurations, as well as steel building brackets and nails.
In recent years, perforated steel fasteners have appeared on the construction market, specifically designed for connecting wooden parts in construction.
When developing the designs and sizes of connectors, the standard dimensions of wooden parts, which are widely used in construction, as well as the loads that wooden parts usually withstand, were taken into account.
Steel perforated fasteners - support for a wooden beam. For example, the article above repeatedly emphasized the need to fasten floor beams to strapping beams without cutting, in order to ensure easy replacement of floor beams and not weaken the strapping.
The use of metal supports for attaching the beams to the strapping beams makes it easy to solve this problem and, in some cases, simplify the design of the basement of the house.
The beam support is made of galvanized steel with a thickness of 2.5 mm. with high strength values.
The metal part of the support must cover at least 2/3 of the height of the beam. The dimensions of the "mouth" of the steel support must correspond to the width of the beam, and the height of the support is chosen at least 2/3 of the height of the beam.
The steel support is screwed to the wooden parts with self-tapping screws. The load-bearing capacity of a beam connector is equal to the sum of the load-bearing capacities of the screws that fasten the support to the beam.
In order to use the connector's load-bearing capacity to the full, self-tapping screws are screwed into each hole of the steel support. If this is not necessary, then the self-tapping screws must be screwed into the beam into the upper and lower, and then into every second hole. In the strapping beam, self-tapping screws are screwed into each hole of the row located closer to the beam.
The length of the screws is chosen equal to half the width of the beam. The diameter of the screws should be slightly smaller than the size of the holes in the steel support.
Instead of self-tapping screws, you can use "ruffed" nails. Ordinary nails with a smooth surface cannot be used.
The gap between the end of the beam and the strapping beam is allowed no more than 3 mm.
You can use perforated steel fasteners in other structures of a log house. For example, It is convenient to replace building brackets with mounting plates or corners.
A wide variety of perforated steel fasteners are available for a wide variety of timber structures.
Of course, you can admire the art of our ancestors, who built without a single nail. But taking an example from them and trying to repeat it now hardly makes sense.
Modern technologies allow a lot of things to be done faster, stronger, and cheaper. For example, it is convenient to connect a beam, a beam along the length using such a gerbera connector.
A typical application of a gerbera beam connector is connection and splicing of beams, purlins, rafters not on a support, but in a span, in the absence of bending and torque moments in the articulation unit.
Connectors should be located from the support at a distance of 1/7 of the span length L. Calculations show that at this distance from the support to the beam, girder or rafter, the minimum bending and torsional moments will act.
Always use a pair of connectors for each connection. The height of the connector must be equal to the height of the beam. Gerber connectors are made of galvanized steel with a thickness of 2 mm.
More articles on this topic:
Before construction, read which timber is best for building a house - we choose the type of timber, size and thickness, depending on the purpose of the future construction. Consider and compare the types of wooden building materials.
And we will also determine what thickness of the timber is suitable for the construction of a bathhouse, a summer residence and a house for permanent residence.
Types of wooden building materials on the modern market
Currently, there are several types of materials used in wooden construction:
- glued timber,
- profiled beam,
- unprofiled beam,
- calibrated log,
- rounded log,
- hewn log.
Advantages of timber buildings
Why timber for building a house is better than logs:
- smooth and even surface of the walls,
- "easy" construction due to the lower weight of the timber,
- geometric accuracy of the entire structure,
- strong fastening of the bars to each other, which, as a result, prevents the penetration of cold and the formation of cracks,
- pleasant atmosphere and aesthetically pleasing view, both outside and inside the house.
The most popular competing wooden building materials are glued timber and profiled timber. Both have their supporters and opponents.
Before starting construction, the customer must clearly understand which timber is better for building a house, and which timber is better to use for a summer residence or a bath.
What type of timber to use for building a house
Profiled timber
The most popular material for low-rise wooden construction. The bar is made of wood, more often coniferous. It is a solid mass of wood, processed to obtain a groove on a planer and milling machine. In its manufacture, it is important to observe the exact dimensions and the correct geometric shape, otherwise the bars will not fit together and a gap will form. Therefore, the main requirement for obtaining high-quality profiled timber is high-precision equipment.
Glued laminated timber
Glued laminated timber is also often used for low-rise construction of private houses, summer cottages and baths. The bar is made of wood, more often coniferous species - spruce, cedar, larch, pine. Logs are sawn into boards (lamellas) and planed until they achieve perfect smoothness.
Which timber is better for building a house - glued or profiled
Let's compare the main characteristics of these types of timber.
Environmental friendliness
Here, profiled timber has no equal. This is a natural material, absolutely harmless to people living in a house built from it. The environmental friendliness of glued beams depends on the glue that was used for its production. The more harmless the glue (and over time it will gradually evaporate anyway), the more expensive the glued laminated timber. When using low-quality glue, the boards can even stick out over time.
Dimensions
The length of the profiled beam depends on the length of the source material (most often the length of the beam is 6 m.) The length of the glued beam can reach 18 m.
Quality
The question is difficult. At first, glued laminated timber is stronger than profiled timber due to gluing and pressing, and besides, it is drier (glulamic timber contains 11-14% moisture), profiled timber - up to 20%. Due to dryness, glued beams shrink very little (about 1%). But over time, glued laminated timber is saturated with moisture from the environment, which brings it closer in properties to dry profiled timber.
Well-dried and shrunk, profiled timber does not rot, crack, and can serve for more than a hundred years.
Price
The cost of glued laminated timber is much more expensive than profiled timber - 2-3 times, which is due to the peculiarities of the manufacture of materials. It happens that the price of glued laminated timber on the market is significantly underestimated, by 1.5-2 times, but then you need to pay attention to the quality of the material (what glue was used, what kind of wood, how dry the material was, etc.).
Summary
Which beam is better for building a house - glued or profiled - everyone decides for himself, there is no universal answer. Briefly summarizing the features of each type:
- profiled timber- favorable price, environmental friendliness, less cracking or damage;
- glued laminated timber- high durability, reduction of time for shrinkage, it is possible to do without external finishing.
The main thing to remember: do not save on materials, because in the future this will affect the quality of the house.
What size and thickness of timber is best for building a house
The answer to the question of what size of timber is best suited for construction depends on the purpose of the building being erected. The thickness of the profiled beam can be different: in the final size, taking into account the profile of 90 mm, 190 mm.
The thinner the beam, the more it is in cubes, for example,
- timber 100 x 150 mm - 11 pieces in a cube;
- timber 150 x 150 mm - 7.5 pcs. cubed;
- timber 200 x 150 - 5.5 pieces per cube, so the final price of the house is less for a thinner timber).
But the thicker the timber, the better the heat will be kept in the room.
For a bath, a bar with a section of 100 mm is enough.
Country seasonal house
A beam with a cross section of 100 mm is quite a suitable option for an economical country house, in which the owners do not plan to live in the winter.
Winter house for permanent residence
- A 150 mm beam is ideal for a seasonal home, where they live in spring / summer / autumn. Such a house can also be suitable for the winter version, it all depends on the quantity and quality of the insulation and on how and with what the house will be heated.
- A beam with a cross section of 200 mm is made only for a specific order for premium class houses. It keeps heat better, but many will consider its cost unreasonably high. This thickness allows you to easily withstand temperatures up to -25 ºС.
So for building a house for permanent residence, choose a timber with a thickness of 150-200 mm. 150 mm is a more economical winter house and is suitable for the middle lane, 200 mm is more expensive and suitable for northern regions.
The DomBanya company builds houses from profiled timber up to 200 mm thick. Contact the company's specialists, and they will advise what thickness of timber is best for building a house or a bath.