Before talking about furniture connections, let's clarify what is meant by a furniture product. The following types of products are distinguished: parts, assembly units, complexes and kits.

A part is a product made of a material of the same name without the use of prefabricated operations (for example, a table leg made of wood, etc.). Parts are also considered to be products made using gluing, stitching or welding (for example, a bent-glued part from several layers of veneer, etc.).

An assembly unit is a product consisting of at least two parts. Assembly units in their composition are of varying degrees of complexity. These include products for a specific functional purpose (table, chair, cabinet) and component parts of products for a specific functional purpose (desk drawer, sidewall of an armchair).

A complex is understood as two or more products, interconnected not by assembly operations, but by common operational functions. Complexes are sets and sets of furniture.

A set is two or more products, not connected by assembly operations, intended to perform auxiliary functions.

Connect the elements into a piece of furniture different ways... Choosing this or that connection, one must remember that it must ensure the reliability and durability of the product, its aesthetics.

All connections used in furniture production can be divided into two main types: detachable and one-piece.

Detachable connections allow you to assemble and disassemble the structure, and one-piece connections do not allow the structure to be disassembled. One-piece connections are carried out using glue, nails, staples and screwless fittings.

Detachable connections are subdivided into fixed and movable. Stationary ones provide a constant relative position of the parts to be joined. These include connections on screeds, screws and dowels without glue. Detachable movable joints provide movement of the elements of the product relative to each other in a given direction. Movable joints are joints on hinges, rollers, and also on guides.

One-piece connections

The most common group among permanent joints are glue joints. Adhesive joints have a number of positive qualities: they are technologically advanced, have high strength, increase the dimensional stability of the product, and reduce the likelihood of cracking of parts.

Consider spike connections. The main elements of spike joints: spike, socket, eyelet, tongue, comb. A spike is a protrusion at the end of a part that has a specific shape and size. The tenon fits into a socket, eyelet or tongue. A socket is a hole or depression in a part. Eyelet - a hole at the end of a part that is open on two or three sides. The shape and dimensions of the spike must match the shape and dimensions of the socket or eyelet.

The tongue (groove) is a recess in the part. A ridge is a protruding part of a part that coincides in shape and size with a tongue. Elements of finger joints are shown in the figure.

Rice. 53... Spike elements: 1 - groove, 2 - comb, 3 - round tenon, 4 - flat tenons, 5 - eyelet, 6 - flat tenon socket, 7 - round tenon socket

The spines are flat, round, trapezoidal (dovetail) and serrated in shape. Spikes can be solid (made at the end of the part) and plug-in (which are independent parts). The planes of the lateral edges of the spines are called cheeks.

Insertable round tenons are called dowels.

The ledges that form the transition from the bar to the body of the thorn are called shoulders. The length of the tenon is the distance from the end face of the tenon to the shoulders. The thickness of the thorn is the distance between the cheeks of the thorn, the width is the transverse dimension of the cheek.

Usually, with the help of thorns, they form connections: corner end, corner middle, corner box, along the length and along the edges.

Thorn connections are: through (the end of the thorn comes out with its end face to the visible surface); open (after connection, the surface of the upper edge of the thorn becomes visible); in darkness (after connecting, all side faces thorns become invisible); with a semi-darkness (after connection, part of the upper edge of the thorn is visible); on a straight thorn (the edges of the thorn joint elements are mutually perpendicular); on a mustache (the end faces of the joined bars are cut off under acute angle, most often 45 °).

The strength of the spike joints depends on the bonding area and the density of contact between the elements.

Corner end, middle and box connections are used to create volumetric structures (frames, boxes, boxes). Straight open single, double or triple stud joints differ from each other in strength, therefore, the choice of joint is determined, as a rule, by the magnitude of the operating loads.

Rice. 54... Types of spike connections: 1-5 - joints along the length; 6-11 - edge connections; 12-22 - corner end connections, 27-31 - box corner connections

Thorn joints with dark and semi-dark (through or blind) are inferior in strength to open stud joints, but they protect the bars from everting out during assembly.

It should be borne in mind that in all blind joints between the end of the bus and the wall of the socket, a gap is provided (at least 2 mm). This is done in order to avoid the destruction of the structure with the inevitable deformation caused by the hygroscopicity of the wood.

In furniture products, dowel joints are most common. These compounds have the following positive qualities: in comparison with other spike joints, the laboriousness of manufacturing joint elements (holes and dowels) is minimal; the use of dowel joints allows you to save up to 10% of the material of the parts to be joined; The main structural material for furniture products is particle boards, and the production of spikes and lugs on them is impossible due to the structure of the board. At the same time, dowel joints of chipboard parts provide the necessary strength.

Mustache connections are used in cases where it is necessary to hide the ends of the parts to be joined. Muffle joints are inferior to straight corner joints in strength and manufacturability.

The most technologically advanced mustache joints with plug-in tenons (flat or dowels).

Of all the box spike joints, the dovetail spine is the most firmly connected. In the furniture industry, due to its low manufacturability, it is rarely used; in the manufacture of furniture at home, this minus does not really matter.

The most technologically advanced is the dowel joint, which also provides sufficient strength. The number of dowels depends on the size of the box and the expected loads. The increase in the number of dowels complicates the assembly, therefore it is not recommended to use more than six dowels in one connection.

It is clear what the length connections are for. They allow making full-value parts from small-sized waste. The most common for this purpose is a serrated glued joint. It provides high tensile and flexural strengths.

Serrated adhesive joints, depending on the exit of the spike elements to the face and edge, can be vertical (exit of the surface of the spike elements to the face of the part), horizontal (exit of the surface of the spike elements to the edge of the part) and diagonal (exit of the surface of the spike elements to the face and edge).

The strength of the toothed tenon connection depends on the length of the tenon and the slope of the faces. The slope should be at least 1: 8 ratio, only then the optimal conditions assembly.

The lengthwise mustache and wedge-shaped joints are highly durable, but laborious.

The joints along the length of the tenons in the end groove and in the half-wood provide for the contact of the end surfaces, which weakens the strength. Such connections can be recommended in structures where they work in compression.

Edge joints are used to increase the width of the part. These joints, as well as joints along the length, help to reduce the material consumption of structures. On the other hand, they help out if there is no board of the required width. Of this group of compounds, the most technologically advanced is the connection for a smooth joint, since it is not laborious. Since the mating profile is a smooth surface, the connection can provide high density contact of the parts to be glued, which creates a condition for high strength of the joint.

The connection along the edges on the dowels is advisable for mating narrow parts (an increase in the number of dowels increases the complexity of the connection assembly). Robust and technologically advanced edge connection with plug-in rail. The lath can be made of plywood or wood with a cross-grain arrangement.

Folding connections (from the English folding - folding). It is used to create cabinet and box structures. The essence of the method consists in obtaining a box from a flat panel, in which wedge-shaped grooves are cut in the transverse direction. WITH outside of the shield under the grooves, the film is glued. Glue is applied to the grooves, then the box is folded. The film provides sufficient ductility and strength of the fold surface at the time of folding.

Rice. 55... Folding connection

There is another version of this connection. The groove completely separates one part of the shield from the other. In this case, the adhesive composition previously applied to the groove recess area acts as a hinge element, which is subsequently removed. This method is used when veneering with natural veneer or laminated plastic. Fold assembly is more accurate than the traditional way, the elements are glued together more firmly due to the high precision of the operation and uniform compression of the elements. This method can be used on flat pieces that have gone through the finishing stage.

Veneering is also a way of joining parts. Veneering is the bonding of the surfaces of the workpiece. thin material... Facing allows you to reduce the consumption of valuable materials, to create surfaces with high aesthetic, functional, hygienic and strength indicators. When veneering, the cladding is glued to the base.

The cladding is made of natural or synthetic veneer, polymer or thermosetting films, decorative laminated paper, edging material, artificial leather, porous monolithic films, fabrics.

As a rule, the basis is wood of low-value species, fiberboard, chipboard and joinery boards, plywood.

One- and two-sided veneering is used. If the part has the shape of a shield or its width is 2 times the thickness, the facing must be two-sided, otherwise unbalanced internal stresses will appear, which will cause the part to buckle.

In case of double-sided veneering, in order to avoid warping, it is advisable to vene both sides of the shield with a material of the same breed, thickness and direction of fibers. Usually, to save sliced ​​veneer, the inner surfaces of the elements (for example, the side wall of the cabinet) are faced with a cheaper material. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the correspondence of the thickness of the linings and their moduli of elasticity. It is necessary that the product of the modulus of elasticity and the thickness of one liner be equal to the product of the size of the thickness and the modulus of elasticity of the other liner.

Veneering is applied in one and two layers. Two-layer veneering gives a surface High Quality, but it is rarely used, since it increases the material consumption of the product.

When veneering, the direction of the fibers of the veneer and the base must be taken into account (must not be the same). Usually they are positioned at an angle of 45-90 ° to each other. Overlapping with parallel grain of the veneer and backing is only permissible if the width to thickness ratio of the backing is not more than 3: 1.

We will also consider connections using nails and fastening brackets. It should be noted that the use of one or another type of compound, in addition to general, objective reasons, is associated with traditional methods manufacturing of furniture products. In the manufacture of furniture, nail joints have always been used extremely rarely. Now they are used to fasten parts made of thin sheet materials, solid wood, certain types of accessories, as well as in the manufacture of small pieces of furniture.

Nails come in a variety of lengths and thicknesses. The cross-sectional shape of nails is round, rectangular, serrated, with a screw or ring thread. Nails are also distinguished depending on the material (steel, copper, aluminum, etc.). To prolong the life of the nails, the nails are coated with nylon, zinc and also cemented.

It is accepted that the strength of the nail joint is characterized by such an indicator as pull-out resistance. This indicator depends on the size of the nail and the section, the material of the parts to be joined. The larger the nail and the more complex the cross-section, the higher its pull-out resistance. The material of the parts to be joined affects the strength of the connection as follows: the greater the density of the material of the parts to be joined, the stronger the connection.

The strength of the connection also depends on the relative position of the axis of the nail and the fibers of the part into which it is driven. The lowest strength is found in a nail driven into the end of the wood.

The resistance to pulling out of the chipboard layer is slightly higher than the resistance to pulling out of pine wood. But in layered and glued materials, nails are hammered badly.

The connection of the nail to the edge of the chipboard is very fragile.

The strength of the connection is greatly influenced by the moisture content of the wood. So, with increasing humidity, the strength decreases. This must be taken into account when designing furniture for a country house.

To prevent cracking of the material, it is important to correctly position the nail relative to the end surface and the edge of the slab. The nail should be positioned no closer than 15 diameters from the end and 10 diameters from the edge of the part. The nail must enter the part to be attached at least 2/3 of its length.

When fastening parts made of thin sheet materials, fabrics, some polymer parts, springs, a connection with staples is used. Staples are made from flat or round wire. The connection with staples is not very strong. The size of the staple is selected depending on the connection. For fixing sheet materials, the height of the bracket must be at least 3 times higher than the thickness of the part.

Detachable connections

In furniture joints, screw joints are very common, although they are considered laborious. Connections with screws are used to fasten fittings and other elements.

Screws are distinguished according to the length of the thread and the shape of the head. The shape of the head is semicircular, flat (hidden), semi-hidden and hexagonal. On the surface of the head there is a slot in the form of a groove or two intersecting grooves for screwing in the screw.

The strength of the screw connection is higher than the nail connection. The pull-out resistance of a screw depends on its size, thread length and the material of the parts to be connected. The higher the density of the material, the stronger the bond. The strength of the connection by screws screwed in along the fibers is almost 2 times lower than the strength of the connection by screws whose axis is perpendicular to the direction of the fibers. They hold the screw differently on the face and the edge of the chipboard (resistance to pulling out of the edge of the board is very low).

The size of the screw is selected depending on the expected loads and the thickness of the attached part. The screw must go into the part to which the fastening is made by? -2/3 of the entire length. With each increase in the screw diameter by 0.5 mm, the pull-out resistance increases to 0.5 MPa, and with an increase in the screw-in depth for every 5 mm, the pull-out resistance increases to 3 MPa. The length of the thread should be equal to the screw-in depth, therefore, for fastening thin parts, it is necessary to take screws that have a thread along the entire length.

When connecting parts with screws, holes must be selected in the parts. The diameter of the hole in the attached part is equal to the diameter of the screw in the unthreaded part. The diameter of the hole in the part relative to which the fastening is made is equal to the inner diameter of the screw thread.

Screws are used to install many types of hinges, latches, latches, guides, etc., to fasten structural elements of small thickness (walls and bottom of the box).

Although the screws are collapsible connections, it is not recommended to repeatedly assemble and disassemble them, since the strength of the connection decreases by 10% each time.

Zip connections. Ties are a special fastening device that provides the necessary density and strength of the connection of elements located relative to each other in a certain position. Most often, screeds connect the elements at an angle of 90 °.

Rice. 56... Tie connections: a – d - screw (1 - screw; 2 - nut; 3 - angle; 4 - washer; 5 - plug); d - eccentric (1 - nut, 2,3 - screw or rod; 4 - eccentric, 5 - plug)

Ties should ensure quick and reliable assembly of the product, not interfere with its operation and not worsen appearance... The design of the ties should exclude the possibility of spontaneous separation of elements during normal operation. There are the following main types of ties: screw, eccentric and hook.

There are several types of screw ties. They differ in the elaboration of individual elements, but the main details of all screw ties are the screw and nut. The fastening strength of the screed elements is ensured by the threaded connection.

On the image ( a – c) shows a turnbuckle, which consists of a screw, nut, washer and plug. This type of screed can be used for corner end and center joints of cabinet walls. These connections are strong enough. The fastening elements of the screed are located in the holes closed with a plug, therefore, it is possible to install the screed in the open areas of the product. The screed does not impair the aesthetic and functional qualities of the products. The disadvantages of this type of screed include the high labor intensity of the installation. When making furniture at home, labor productivity is of no fundamental importance, so this design is quite applicable.

The brace under the letter "b" also contains a screw, a nut and a plug. It provides greater strength than the tie "a", but its disadvantage is the exit of the screw head to the front surface of the product, which worsens the appearance of the furniture and excludes the possibility of blocking the products in the "wall".

Both types of screw ties require additional fixing of the walls with dowels when assembling the housings.

The brace, shown in the figure under the index "g", consists of nuts, angle, screw. It firmly connects the walls of the product body; additional fixing of the walls with dowels is not required. But the release of fasteners to the outside of the product degrades the appearance and reduces the functional and aesthetic qualities. These disadvantages are unacceptable in high-quality furniture products.

Eccentric screeds are of several types. The main elements of this type of tie are a nut, a screw or a rod, an eccentric and a plug. The eccentric axis is offset relative to the axis of its rotation. By turning the eccentric, it is jammed, which ensures the connection. This connection is inferior in strength to the connection on screw ties, but less laborious. Both types of screeds provide similar aesthetic and functional qualities to the product.

Hook ties are structurally very simple. These are metal plates with cutouts and hooks through which they are connected to each other. The plates are fastened with screws. Hook ties can be used in cases where the joints are loaded in one direction.

Hinged joints are perhaps the most common. The following types of loops are used in furniture products: card loops, center loops, pivot loops, lombard loops, four-hinged and double-hinged. Hinges are used for hinging doors, fastening folding table covers.

Card hinges consist of two hinged plates. Hinges can be detachable and non-detachable, right and left execution. Detachable hinges are more technologically advanced, since their installation requires less labor. Fasten card hinges with screws to the edge or face of the door and to the vertical wall of the case. Due to the insufficient strength of fastening with screws in the edge of the chipboard, card hinges are made curved or strengthen the edges of the boards.

Rice. 57... Hinges for panel doors: a - single-hinged card; b - single-hinged fins; c - single-hinged pivot, d - double-hinged ombre hinge; d - four-hinge combined; e - double-hinged combined; 1, 3 - cards; 2 - axis; 4, 5 - plates; 6 - rod, 7 - earring; 8 - bowl; 9 - case; 10 - screw, 11 - strap

A variety of card loops is a piano loop. It is attached to the entire length of the door. The large number of screws used to install it, makes this type of hinge low-tech, which limits its use.

Center hinges consist of plates that rotate in a horizontal plane. The plates are attached to the edges of the doors, in which grooves are selected for the thickness of the plate, and to the horizontal walls of the body. The exit of the elements of this loop to the front surfaces degrades the appearance of the product. In addition, the edges of chipboard doors must be strengthened when installing these hinges, which reduces the manufacturability of the structure. These disadvantages limit the use of the center hinge.

For hanging glass swing doors use center loops in the form metal brace with an axis. Gaskets are installed in the bracket, and between them - the glass door leaf, which is fixed with screws. The axis is inserted into the hole of a metal plate attached to the horizontal walls of the case with screws. The loop provides a strong and secure connection.

Rice. 58... Hinge hinges glass doors

The rod hinges are installed in the door edge. These hinges consist of two rods (plain or threaded) and a fixing screw. The strength of the bar hinge connection depends on the elastic properties of the material into which the bars are inserted.

Lombard hinges provide 180 ° rotation around the axis. They consist of two plates attached with screws, an axle and an earring. Lombard hinges are used to install folding table half-covers.

Four-pivot hinges are the more common type of detachable connection. They consist of a body, a strip and a set screw. The body and the strip are attached respectively to the door and the wall with screws, and connected with a set screw, with which you can adjust the door hinge - the gap between the door and the size of the side wall protrusion.

Four-hinge hinges are available without fixing and fixing, ensuring a tight adjoining of the door to the product body. Fixation is carried out by means of special springs in the hinge body.

These hinges provide a secure and high-performance connection.

For the installation of folding doors, double-hinged (secretary) hinges are used. They consist of plates and a body, which are pivotally connected to each other. The plate is attached to the horizontal wall of the product, and the body is attached to the door.

For the installation of drawers, shelves, sliding doors, guides are used. They are roller and telescopic, in the form of slats and skids. The guides to the walls of the products are fixed with screws, nails, staples or inserted into the grooves of the walls. Planks and runners are made of wood, metal, plywood, polymer materials. Structurally, the guides are divided into single and double, cut-in and overhead.

Rice. 59... Guides: a - telescopic; b - roller

Telescopic guides ensure smooth pull-out of the drawer with a load of up to 250 N across its entire depth. The telescopic mechanism consists of upper and lower guides and a carriage. The top and bottom rails each have four screw holes. The carriage is equipped with four rotating rollers, with the help of which it moves in the guides. A fixed stop is installed on the upper guide - the carriage travel stop. A freely rotating roller is installed on the lower guide, which limits the guide travel and facilitates easy movement of the carriage.

Guides and carriages are made of sheet metal(steel or aluminum alloy) and the rollers are made of low pressure polyethylene or polyamide. Rubber stops.

Structurally simpler non-telescopic roller guides. They consist of lower and upper planks and rollers.

Screwless fittings. The main element for fastening screwless fittings is the dowel element, cast in one piece with its body. The dowel has a shape with pointed annular or semi-annular protrusions. The height of the bushings, depending on the type of fittings, is 10, 12 mm, diameter - 8.7; 11.5; 35.8 mm. Screwless fittings are installed on special equipment by pressing dowels into pre-drilled holes.

Rice. 60... Screwless fittings: a - tie, b - hinge bar, c - magnetic latch, d - installation diagram

It is not always possible to cast fastening dowels at the same time as the fittings product, so sometimes they are fastened using threaded connections.

1. Main material: chipboard

Surprisingly, pure wood is the lot of expensive "elite" furniture. In cabinet furniture, wood is almost never found.

The main material from which cabinet furniture is made is laminated chipboard(Laminated chipboard). Usually these are slabs with a thickness of 16 mm. Sheets are also on sale Chipboard thickness 10 mm vs 22 mm. 10 mm laminated chipboard are used as filling the blind doors of wardrobes, and 22 mm - for shelves in bookcases, where high resistance to loads is required, and ordinary 16 mm chipboard can seriously sag under the weight of books.

Also, sometimes 22 mm parts are used as design elements of furniture products, bringing originality to the design (for example, on top of a regular 16 mm cabinet cover, you can put a protruding cover 22 mm thick more dark color). Such delights are economically feasible only for mass production, since you always have to buy a whole sheet of chipboard for cutting. Usually, all parts of cabinet furniture (except for doors and facades) are made of laminated chipboard 16 mm.

Chipboard is sawn on special machines along guides. Of course, at home, you can saw off something with a jigsaw - but the edges of the seam will be "torn", and the seam itself will probably wiggle from side to side. Achieving a straight saw with a jigsaw is almost impossible.

2. Edges

Saw cut laminated chipboard - represents the most ugly and vulnerability- moisture easily penetrates through it and the material swells and deforms. Therefore, it is recommended to cover all the ends of the chipboard with special edges. Several types of edges are known:

. ABS edge- analogue of PVC edge from other, more environmentally friendly plastic. In addition to environmental friendliness during disposal, the rest of the differences are rather invented by marketers. Not even for sale in our city.

. Wooden and veneer facades- will delight lovers of natural food. True, in the modern plastic world, such facades are quite expensive. Yes, and evil tongues claim that there are so many varnishes and impregnations in this wood that there is only one name from the wood. At the very least, manufacturing firms strongly recommend regular maintenance of such facades with special chemicals.

. Facades under enamel- painted facades. Their main disadvantage: the coating is very easily scratched, deformed, and does not have resistance to chemicals... Previously, they were only used because of the saturated bright colors... With the advent of acrylic plastics on the market, the demand for painted facades has dropped significantly.

. Aluminum fronts with glass- made in high-tech style. They are beautiful and modern, but difficult to manufacture and require non-standard fittings, often installed simultaneously with the production of the facade.

4. Back walls and bottom of boxes.

Usually, the back walls of furniture, like the bottom of the drawers, are made of LDVP... At the same time, its front laminated side looks into the inside of the drawer or cabinet. The color of the MDF is matched to the color of the used MDF. The sheet thickness is usually 3-5 mm.

At one time there was a fashion to plant such a wall on staples using furniture stapler... This is wrong - the braces last for a limited time, and no matter how strong the structure may seem to you immediately after assembly, after a few years under pressure or deformation it may well disperse. It is especially wrong to put on the staples the bottom of the boxes, which are constantly experiencing pull-off loads. So forget about the furniture stapler - it is applicable only to upholstered furniture.

Sometimes fiberboard is inserted into the groove- but this technology requires milling this groove, and at the same time keeping all the dimensions of the product exactly to the millimeter.

Sometimes the back walls and the bottom of the boxes are made of chipboard. This is practiced to create " ribs"in tall cabinets, and in those drawers where there will be a very large load (20 kg and more). The back wall of the cabinet can be equipped with one or more stiffening ribs made of laminated chipboard, and the rest of the space can be filled with laminated chipboard.

5. Countertops

Table top- a horizontal work surface on which people constantly work (prepare food, eat, write).

Most office desks and cheap options dining rooms are limited to a worktop of the same material as the table itself. It can be laminated chipboard 16 mm or better 22 mm, chrome plated necessarily 2 mm PVC edge.

Special countertops are used for kitchens. Usually they are a sheet of laminated chipboard with a thickness of 28-38 mm, covered with plastic using postforming technology. Such plastic is quite durable. If the cut of the countertop is gray, this is an ordinary chipboard, if it is blue-green, then moisture resistant... Correct kitchen worktops are equipped with a silicone strip - the so-called " drip tray", which prevents spilled liquids from flowing down to the kitchen furniture.

The weak point of such tabletops is the edges of the cuts. They are usually edged with melamine to match the color of the tabletop when it is cut. But melamine is afraid of moisture, and often the edges become unusable after a year of operation. Therefore, for the ends of the tabletop, it is recommended to use a special aluminum profile after having thoroughly missed the surface of the saw cut silicone sealant... There is also a profile for joining countertops at a right angle - without sawing them and adjusting them to each other - such a profile is very convenient to use in corner kitchens.

It is not customary to make holes in the countertop (they spoil flat surface table and dirt is then clogged in them), therefore such a tabletop is usually screwed on from the inside self-tapping screws to horizontal struts... In this case, the self-tapping screws should not be too long, so as not to pierce the cover through.

Better quality countertops are considered natural or artificial stone ... Products from natural stone very heavy and require additional maintenance due to the porosity of the material. Artificial stone is devoid of these disadvantages. In addition, the artificial stone countertop can be given almost any size and profile. The only drawback of such countertops today is their price.

6. Location of parts

We have come to those sections that will form your final understanding of how to make cabinet furniture. So, first let's talk about the relative position of the parts.

Detail- any element of cabinet furniture: bottom, lid, sidewall, back wall, facade, shelf. So, every detail can be nested, maybe overhead.

Let's consider this thesis using the example of two kitchen cabinets. One will stand on the floor (on legs), and the other will hang on the wall.

Base cabinet:

As you can see from the figure, it is best when the operating voltage (and for a floor-standing cabinet it is directed from the cover down) naturally transmitted through wooden parts to the point of contact of the product with the support - on the cabinet legs (see the "correct" diagram).

In the second, "wrong" option, the voltage is transmitted to confirmation(this is such a special furniture screw, we will talk about them a little later) - and the effort will constantly try to pull it out of the wood.

Second example: wall cabinet.

Here, the opposite is true: the force is applied to the bottom shelf, the things on it, and the fixing point of the cabinet is higher than the point of application of the force. In a natural way (by the joint of wood-based panels), we will not transfer the effort upward in any way. Therefore, the voltage will necessarily be transmitted through the fittings.

If we make the same construction here as in the base cabinet (see diagram "wrong") - all four confirmations will experience constant stress to pull out made of wood. Therefore, out of two evils, we choose the worst: let it be better for the confirmations to experience an effort. at the break(see the diagram "correct").

At first glance, this seems difficult, but believe my experience: after the third designed and assembled product, you will begin to intuitively, without hesitation, determine where this or that part should be located.

7. Furniture fasteners

Furniture fasteners are hardware, which are used to connect furniture parts. Most often, such a connection is made at a right angle of 90 °. all modern types of furniture fasteners are very well described, with detailed description their advantages and disadvantages. Let's go over briefly those with which we will not work.

. Euro screw (confirmation)- special furniture screw. The most common fixing for cabinet furniture. The confirmation is especially well suited for beginners - since it does not require precise addition of parts - you can drill a hole for it already "in place", during the assembly of the product.

Have you noticed that self-tapping screws are almost never used to connect parts? That's right, in the furniture business they are replaced by confirms. Due to the ideal shape for 16mm chipboard, they have a significant large area threads and hold much stronger than self-tapping screws.

To drill holes for confirms, you need special drill- it was not easy to find such a thing in our provincial town. In principle, if there is no such drill, it is not scary: you can get by with three drills of different diameters: for a thread, a neck and a confirmation head.

Confirmations come in several sizes. Usually 7x50 are used. When drilling for confirmation Special attention pay attention to the perpendicularity of the drilling - so that the drill does not "run away" and pierce the wall of the part being drilled.

Confirmates are twisted screwdriver with a hexagonal bit or manually with a special hex key... Confirmates made with a Phillips screwdriver are not correct confirmations! You can never fully tighten these screws.

The main aesthetic drawback of confirmations is, although they remain flush, but still noticeable, hats. In order to hide them they use plastic plugs, inserted into the hats. The color of the plugs is matched to the color of the chipboard.

. Eccentric couplers- the most correct and modern look furniture fasteners. Does not leave marks on the front side of the product, only on the inside. The main disadvantage- requires very accurate drilling, including aligning holes on both sides and limiting the drilling depth (so as not to drill through).

For drilling additives for eccentrics, a special Forstner drill... It is possible to do it manually - but it is very difficult, it is better to have a drilling machine.

If you are assembling furniture, the ends of which will not be displayed for everyone to see, but will be hidden (for example, kitchen cabinet or a wardrobe in a niche) - then there is no point in bothering with eccentrics. Use confirmations.

8. Furniture fittings

The loops can also be adjusted in height and seating depth. This allows you to more accurately align your cabinet door. There are also inset hinges - when, when the door is closed, the facade is recessed into the cabinet (rarely used). Exists whole line hinges for glass doors, in which the glass can be firmly clamped without drilling.

Buy only quality products well-known manufacturers (from inexpensive, we can recommend Chinese Boyard) - so as not to have problems with them in the future. Serious world manufacturers - Austrian Blum, but it's expensive and you still have to try to find it.

9. Boxes and their guides

There are many ways to make furniture boxes... The easiest is to make the perimeter of the box (sides, front and back wall) from laminated chipboard. This method is described in detail and with illustrations. The only thing I do not agree with the author is that instead of nails for fixing the bottom, I would use self-tapping screws.

If a beautiful facade is required, then it is screwed with self-tapping screws to one of the sides of the drawer into the overlay, as shown in the diagram in section 5 (the role of the countertop in this case will be played by the drawer facade).

But collecting the box is half the battle. The main thing is to make it open and close. That is, put it on the guides.

Drawer guides are of two types: roller and ball.

. Roller the guides are usually white and are attached to the bottom of the drawer. The box on such guides rides on two rubberized rollers, rumbles due to its unstable position, and at the point of maximum exit strives to fall out of the guides from any sharp jolt. Such guides are bad in that a heavily loaded box will try to tip over from any position when it is pulled out by more than half. The only advantage of such guides is the price: about 30 rbl for a couple.

. Ballpoint guides - or as they are commonly called "guides full extension". These guides are a telescopic structure capable of doubling their length exactly. Inside they contain several tens of balls (as in bearings), which ensures the drawer runs smoothly. The guides are rigidly fixed with self-tapping screws to both the cabinet and the drawer, which excludes the possibility of overturning, and does not allow the box to "go off the rails" regardless of the load and the speed of the jerks.

The installation process of the drawer on the full extension ball guides is well described. The price of such guides is about RUB 100 per set. It is very disappointing to see, when in a kitchen with a total cost of more than 40 sput, the manufacturer squeezes and installs roller guides, while saving 70 rubles. I would like, you know, to take and strangle for such a swinish attitude towards the buyer. So if you order a kitchen, immediately stipulate what type of guides the drawers will have.

. Metaboxes- a solution first proposed by an Austrian company Blum... The idea is to save the craftsman from the need to attach the rails to the drawer, and to sell ready-made side walls, with built-in rails, holes for the facade and grooves for the back wall. Having bought a metabox, you just have to hang a facade on it, attach the back wall and the bottom (by the way, many metaboxes are designed for the bottom made of chipboard and not fiberboard).

The guides in the metaboxes are roller guides. Accordingly, the metabox is not fully extended. Blum Metabox cost: from 300 before RUB 500... Now many firms, including Chinese ones, produce products with the name "Metabox", which has already become a household name. Here is a good article on calculating and assembling a metabox.

. Tandemboxes- a more technological solution of the same company. If the metabox rides on roller guides, then the tandembox rides on full extension ball guides. The number of balls in them is several hundred. Tandembox is usually equipped with an automatic door closer and shock damper (BluMotion system) - which provides surprisingly pleasant and soft closing of the drawer (always full closing) with one push.

For tall drawers, tandemboxes can be equipped with one or two additional restraints. Tandem boxes are made white and from stainless steel. The latter, of course, are twice as expensive.

If you happen to be on furniture exhibition, stop at the Blum booth. You can't even imagine how pleasant and high-quality the usual furniture fittings can be. But tandembox is also worth it: 1000-2000 rub per set.

10. Doors for wardrobes

The last thing worth telling about in our furniture educational program is wardrobes... In general, a kitchen and a wardrobe are the most accessible and interesting areas of activity for a novice furniture craftsman. Well, not counting, of course, bedside tables and shelves. Living room and bedroom furniture usually requires serious design approach, the use of non-standard or difficult-to-machine materials: natural wood, tempered glass... With kitchens and wardrobes - everything is simple and clear.

The sliding wardrobe comes in two versions: with walls (side and back) and without them. the last option is simply a part of the room (usually a niche) fenced off by sliding doors, inside which you can do whatever you like: shelves, drawers, hangers, and a bunch of other interesting things. Here are listed and given photos of the most common elements of filling wardrobes.

The most interesting and attractive mechanism in the wardrobe is its sliding doors... You can't skimp here, and you only need to acquire high-quality fittings- otherwise, then you will suffer with falling and jamming doors so that you yourself will not be happy. In our city, only sliding systems of a domestic company are sold from a decent one Aristo, however, according to reviews, they are quite decent.

A sliding wardrobe usually contains two or three doors. Each door is a canvas enclosed in a special frame made of decorated aluminum profile... At the same time, the door does not have to be uniform - it can create from two or more different canvases connected at any angle using a special profile.

Traditionally, the frame profile for sliding wardrobe doors is designed for a 10-mm door leaf thickness. For the manufacture of blind doors, 10 mm laminated chipboard sheets are usually used. Special sheets can serve as a design alternative. rattan(decorative braiding), bamboo, and even artificial leather (based on chipboard or MDF).

Through dedicated silicone seals 4 mm can be easily inserted into the profile mirror... The main thing is that those who will cut your mirrors for the cabinet do not forget to apply a special elastic film on its back side, which will hold the fragments in case of impact. Even if the child breaks the mirror surface, this will significantly reduce the likelihood of injury.

In order for the doors to drive, guides are attached from below and from above. The lower guides of the sliding wardrobe ensure the opening / closing of the door, the upper ones ensure the fixation of the door relative to the depth of the cabinet. The lower rollers are usually made of plastic, equipped with a shock absorbing spring and a screw for height adjustment. The upper rollers have a rubberized surface.

To obtain Additional information on self-production of cabinet furniture, I highly recommend reading the following resources:

. http://mebelsoft.net/forum/- Forum of professional furniture makers. Perhaps the largest and most popular resource on this topic.

. http://www.mastercity.ru/forumdisplay.php?f=19- City of craftsmen, section "furniture and interior design". Those who try to do everything with their own hands gather here.

. http://mebelsam.com- DIY furniture. There are many articles and examples of a wide variety of technologies, not only cabinet furniture.

. http://www.makuha.ru- Furniture reference book. A beginner portal, but already contains interesting articles.

Well, that ended our small furniture educational program. I hope you are now full of strength and determination to make cabinet furniture with your own hands. Add a little imagination here in the choice of colors, edges, accessories and curly cuts- and you will be able to make the furniture that you need it.

And it's not even about what happens cheaper and often better than in the store. And it’s not that you don’t limit yourself to factory models anymore. The fact is that things made by you, things in which you put your soul, your enthusiasm and skill - keep the warmth of your hands... I think this is important.

Furniture fasteners are used to efficiently assemble and install interior elements. Depending on the place of fixation and the method of connection, there are several varieties. These elements allow not only to facilitate the assembly and installation procedure, but will also be invisible after the completion of the process.

The design and type of fasteners will depend on the purpose of the furniture on which it is fixed. Elements can hold the product together inside, creating its frame, as well as fix the base of the furniture to the wall or floor. Today, the following types of fasteners are used:

• Furniture corner;
• Confirmate;
• Shkant;
• Screeds;
• Shelf supports;

Each of these types has its own characteristics and features that distinguish them from each other. To find out which element is necessary for assembling furniture, it is recommended to consider in detail the advantages and disadvantages of each category.

Furniture corner

Such an element is a simple and outdated type of furniture fastener. It would seem that if a part is outdated, then why talk about it? It's simple - such a corner is useful for novice collectors. He will also become an assistant in self-design furniture products and subsequent assembly. In addition, no special equipment or skills are required for its installation. According to the production material, 2 types of furniture corners are distinguished:

1. Plastic - fastened with self-tapping screws, has a more miniature appearance and is relatively light in weight. Such a corner is convenient to use for screed lightweight furniture boards or to support furniture parts;
2. Metal - has stiffening ribs and is produced at an angle of 90 degrees. To fix the part, use plastic or metal screws and couplings. On one side of the corner there are holes, on the opposite side there are grooves.

Such fasteners are used to tie the roof or bottom of the wardrobe compartment with its walls or when assembling cabinet kitchen furniture. The plastic versions are equipped with a special plug that gives the product a finished look. Metal are considered affordable and very durable. From the disadvantages of fastening, one can distinguish the gradual loosening of surfaces fixed with corners, as well as an unattractive appearance.

Plastic

Confirmation

This is the name used to refer to ordinary screws for furniture. In another way, they are called Euroscrews, as well as Euroscrews. The fastener is easy to install and does not require precision; a screwdriver or drill is required to fix it. In the screw head there is a hole for a hex wrench, which is also necessary for work.

To install this part, you need to drill two holes: one in the end face of the part, and the other in the element that will be attached. The ease of assembling furniture with the help of a confirmation allows the furniture maker to drill holes on the spot. It takes a minimum of time to complete the work. You can simplify the process as much as possible if you use a special drill for confirmation for installation. However, many furniture makers claim that over time, this device looses, and the cutters become clogged with wood shavings. Therefore, for frequent use, standard drills are used.

The most popular and used confirmation is the size 7x50 mm. Below are the pros and cons of using this fastener.

Based on the specified information, it should be noted that these furniture mounts are comfortable and reliable. But if you can use them, then it is better to give preference to the eccentric coupler.

Dowel

Hidden fastening types are a feature of furniture assembled with dowels. It is a small wooden cylinder, its dimensions are often 35x8 mm. The first number indicates the height of the element, and the second indicates the diameter of the fastener. The essence of fastening with dowels is as follows:

• Holes are drilled in each of the two parts;
• The holes must be coaxial - that is, coincide at the axis location;
• A dowel is inserted into one hole, which only half penetrates into the depth;
• On the dowel protruding from the furniture part, the second furniture part is put on - this is how their screed takes place.

In order for the connection to have increased strength, the hole is treated with PVA glue, which additionally fixes the dowels and makes them motionless. A big plus of this type of furniture fastener is that it remains invisible: it cannot be seen from the outside or from the inside. The dowel joint has some disadvantages: it is done once, so it is extremely difficult to disassemble such furniture without damage. The second disadvantage is that precise drilling of holes is required for a perfect fit of the two components. This nuance gives rise to the need for the use of special devices.

The fixtures for installing dowels are called jigs. They can be factory-made or home-made. The former are considered the best in quality, but the latter can be made independently.

Screeds

Today, there are two main varieties furniture screed- eccentric and intersectional. It is necessary to consider in more detail each of these types separately:

1. Eccentric coupler - this element is used only in the conditions of factory assembly of furniture. To put it on a furniture board, you must use a device for drilling an exact hole. The main advantage of such fasteners is the ability to remain invisible, then the furniture acquires a neat and attractive appearance. Another advantage, compared to confirms, is that such furniture fasteners allow you to assemble and disassemble furniture several times without losing its rigidity. In addition, with the help of an eccentric tie, it is possible to fasten parts at an angle;
2. Intersectional coupler - represented by a screw and a nut, with the help of which two perpendicular furniture elements are pulled together. It is convenient to fix the headboard and the bottom of the bed, as well as tabletops, with an intersectional coupler. It is necessary to choose fasteners based on the dimensions of the chipboard thickness.

The most popular size of screeds is 32 mm, but this figure can be up to 50 mm.

Eccentric

Intersectional

Shelf supports

A large number of shelf supports allows them to be divided into 2 subgroups: for chipboard and glass parts. V furniture showrooms you can find many models where glass is harmoniously combined with wooden base... In order to qualitatively pull together two materials of different composition, shelf supports are used.

Each of the types can be separately divided into two more categories: with and without fixation. Let's take a closer look at how to fix glass in furniture, as well as how to use a chipboard shelf holder.

When installing shelves in a cabinet or cabinet, shelf holders are indispensable. They should ideally match the style of furniture, be combined with general principles interior.

Previously, the bolt-nut system was widely used to fix furniture parts. With this connection, a hole was drilled in both surfaces where the bolt was threaded. On the other side of the cabinet wall, this bolt was fixed with a nut. Today, a screw with a nut is also used - it is the most simple type connections of furniture parts. The screw is equipped with a semicircular head, which, after being connected to the nut, does not rotate, but remains stationary. This fastener is easy to use, but with the advent of new materials, it faded into the background. Bolts with nuts are suitable for use by craftsmen on entry level assembly.

The advantages of such fasteners are:

• The possibility of self-assembly;
• Parts availability;
• The possibility of reusable assembly and disassembly of furniture.

Among the minuses, the visibility of the mounts can be distinguished, which is why they have ceased to be relevant. Another significant drawback is the ability to connect only parallel surfaces.

Types, depending on the material to which it is attached

Modern manufacturers today use not only chipboard for the manufacture of furniture. Glass is widely used, metal parts, as well as plastic elements. Fasteners for furniture made of chipboard were considered throughout the entire material, and options for screed objects from other raw materials are discussed below:

1. Glass - self-tapping-type holders are used, which are screwed into a wall made of concrete or drywall. With their help, the shelves are fixed and mirror surfaces without damaging the coating of the part. For glass doors on a curbstone, the use of furniture hinges is suitable;
2. Metal - for connecting shelves metal shelving screw fasteners are used. They are screwed into the posts using a drill or screwdriver. An attractive plug is installed on the front side;
3. Plastic - plastic parts can be fixed with any chipboard fastener.

Separately, it is worth highlighting the dovetail mount - it is used to connect boxes. The essence of the connection consists in cutting out a comb surface on each part, which is inserted into another part, as a result, butt fixation is obtained. Choose only the type of attachment that best suits your needs. Before buying, be sure to calculate the thickness of the material so that during the assembly process the screws and self-tapping screws do not protrude on the surface.

Box corner joints boards or boards (Fig. 8, 9) are widely used in joinery and furniture production.

Rice. 8. Corner joints for boxes and boxes: a - with a straight open thorn; b - oblique open thorn; c - an open dovetail thorn; d - into a groove on a plug-in rail with an open end; d - in the groove and comb; e - on plug-in thorns; g - a half-hidden thorn in the "dovetail".

Rice. 9. Corner mustache joints for boxes and boxes: a - flush in; b - into the groove on the plug-in rail; c - on the comb: d - with gluing on the grandmother.

They are carried out using straight or oblique dovetail pins. The number of studs depends on the width and thickness of the parts to be joined. Spikes are made at the ends of both parts to be joined, and the shield with an eyelet on the edge of the edge is one spike more than the adjacent shield corresponding to it.

Box connections can be through, deaf, half-blind and deaf with a clean mustache. Through connections are used for boxes inside the product (boxes, half boxes, etc.), as well as on obverse if they are covered with plywood or opaque paint. Details that are open only on one side are connected in half, and those open on all sides are connected in half.

Box corner joints are also made on plug-in tenons, but such joints are less strong. Box joints-abutments - median (Fig. 10) are made with straight through thorns and grooves with a ridge: triangular, rectangular, trapezoidal. Groove joints are used if it is undesirable to have protruding ends.

Rice. 10. Middle connections of boxes and boxes: a - in single or double nagrat; b - on a straight groove in the ridge; in - a triangular thorn; d - straight deaf thorn; d - straight through thorn; e - on round plug-in thorns; g - in "dovetail"; h - straight cut with nails.

Another very entertaining idea from Sergei Novikov. By the result, it strongly resembles the two previous lessons, in which he makes a rectangular cut in the detail and cuts it with a 2 mm edge. But in this lesson there is a fundamental difference: we do not make a solid corner piece, but we butt two pieces together.

This method can be useful when joining pieces of countertop "", or even in the manufacture of facades from chipboard economy class.

So let's get started. Preparing the parts for gluing: glue the edge and file them at an angle of 45 degrees (this must be done very carefully,.
For work, we need a router with disc cutter... Considering that it is planned to use a piece of HDF or fiberboard as a key, the thickness of the cutter should be 3.5 mm

We make a cut in the center of the end face of the part to be connected (the edges of the cut should not be visible from the sides, that is, the tool sinks into the material, stepping back from the edge of 10-15 mm.

A similar groin is selected and on the second part it is advisable to put a router on the same side on both parts, in this case, even if you deviate from the center, no negative consequences it won't cause.

we prepare a key from trimming fiberboard or HDF (it should be as wide as two overhangs of the cutter, and 1-2 cm shorter than the groove in length.

Any PVA-based glue is suitable for gluing, for example Homakol or Moment STOLYAR. We coat the dowel and the glued end with glue, insert the dowel into the groove and assemble the connection.

We connect both halves of the part to be glued. For reliability, you can clamp them in a clamping device (there are a lot of them invented), or you can do without them. For countertops, special screeds are relevant. Then we remove the excess glue protruding from the joint.

After the glue dries, such a neat connection is obtained without a difference in height. The tensile strength of such a connection (without additional amplifiers), I think, is not too high, but it is quite sufficient for shear.