Another very entertaining idea from Sergei Novikov. By the result, it strongly resembles the two previous lessons, in which he makes a rectangular cut in the detail and cuts it with a 2 mm edge. But in this lesson there is a fundamental difference: we do not make a solid corner piece, but we butt two pieces together.
This method can be useful when joining pieces of countertop "", or even in the manufacture of facades from chipboard economy class.
So let's get started. Preparing the parts for gluing: glue the edge and file them at an angle of 45 degrees (this must be done very carefully,.
For work, we need a router with disc cutter... Considering that it is planned to use a piece of HDF or fiberboard as a key, the thickness of the cutter should be 3.5 mm 
We make a cut in the center of the end face of the part to be connected (the edges of the cut should not be visible from the sides, that is, the tool sinks into the material, stepping back from the edge of 10-15 mm. 
A similar groin is selected and on the second part it is advisable to put a router on the same side on both parts, in this case, even if you deviate from the center, no negative consequences it won't cause. 
we prepare a key from trimming fiberboard or HDF (it should be as wide as two overhangs of the cutter, and 1-2 cm shorter than the groove in length. 
Any PVA-based glue is suitable for gluing, for example Homakol or Moment STOLYAR. We coat the dowel and the glued end with glue, insert the dowel into the groove and assemble the connection. 
We connect both halves of the part to be glued. For reliability, you can clamp them in a clamping device (there are a lot of them invented), or you can do without them. For countertops, special screeds are relevant. Then we remove the excess glue protruding from the joint. 
After the glue dries, such a neat connection is obtained without a difference in height. The tensile strength of such a connection (without additional amplifiers), I think, is not too high, but it is quite sufficient for shear. 
To efficiently assemble and install interior elements, it is used furniture fasteners... Depending on the place of fixation and the method of connection, there are several varieties. These elements allow not only to facilitate the assembly and installation procedure, but will also be invisible after the completion of the process.
The design and type of fasteners will depend on the purpose of the furniture on which it is fixed. Elements can hold the product together inside, creating its frame, as well as fix the base of the furniture to the wall or floor. Today, the following types of fasteners are used:
- Furniture corner;
- Confirmate;
- Shkant;
- Screeds;
- Shelf supports;
Each of these types has its own characteristics and features that distinguish them from each other. To find out which element is necessary for assembling furniture, it is recommended to consider in detail the advantages and disadvantages of each category.
Furniture corner
Such an element is a simple and outdated type of furniture fastener. It would seem that if a part is outdated, then why talk about it? It's simple - such a corner is useful for novice collectors. He will also become an assistant in self-design furniture products and subsequent assembly. In addition, no special equipment or skills are required for its installation. According to the production material, 2 types of furniture corners are distinguished:
- Plastic - fastened with self-tapping screws, has a more miniature appearance and is relatively light in weight. Such a corner is convenient to use for screed lightweight furniture boards or to support furniture parts;
- Metal - has stiffening ribs and is produced at an angle of 90 degrees. To fix the part, use plastic or metal screws and couplings. On one side of the corner there are holes, on the opposite side there are grooves.
Such fasteners are used to tie the roof or bottom of the sliding wardrobe with its walls or when assembling the cabinet kitchen furniture. The plastic versions are equipped with a special plug that gives the product a finished look. Metal are considered affordable and very durable. Of the disadvantages of fastening, one can single out the gradual loosening of surfaces fixed with corners, as well as an unattractive appearance.
Plastic
Confirmation
This is the name used to refer to ordinary screws for furniture. In another way, they are called Euroscrews, as well as Euroscrews. The fastener is easy to install and does not require precision; a screwdriver or drill is required to fix it. In the screw head there is a hole for a hex wrench, which is also necessary for work.
To install this part, you need to drill two holes: one in the end face of the part, and the other in the element that will be attached. The ease of assembling furniture with the help of a confirmation allows the furniture maker to drill holes on the spot. It takes a minimum of time to complete the work. You can simplify the process as much as possible if you use a special drill for confirmation for installation. However, many furniture makers claim that over time, this device looses, and the cutters become clogged with wood shavings. Therefore, for frequent use, standard drills are used.
The most popular and used confirmation is the size 7x50 mm. Below are the pros and cons of using this fastener.
Based on the specified information, it should be noted that these furniture mounts are comfortable and reliable. But if you can use them, then it is better to give preference to the eccentric coupler.
Dowel
Hidden fastening types are a feature of furniture assembled with dowels. It is a small wooden cylinder, its dimensions are often 35x8 mm. The first number indicates the height of the element, and the second indicates the diameter of the fastener. The essence of fastening with dowels is as follows:
- Holes are drilled in each of the two parts;
- The holes must be coaxial - that is, coincide at the axis location;
- A dowel is inserted into one hole, which only half penetrates into the depth;
- On the dowel protruding from the furniture part, the second furniture part is put on - this is how their screed takes place.
In order for the connection to have increased strength, the hole is treated with PVA glue, which additionally fixes the dowels and makes them motionless. A big plus of this type of furniture fastener is that it remains invisible: it cannot be seen from the outside or from the inside. The dowel joint has some disadvantages: it is done once, so it is extremely difficult to disassemble such furniture without damage. The second disadvantage is that precise drilling of holes is required for a perfect fit of the two components. This nuance gives rise to the need for the use of special devices.
The fixtures for installing dowels are called jigs. They can be factory-made or home-made. The former are considered the best in quality, but the latter can be made independently.
Screeds
Today there are two main types of furniture screed - eccentric and intersectional. It is necessary to consider in more detail each of these types separately:
- Eccentric coupler - this element is used only in the conditions of factory assembly of furniture. To put him on furniture board it is necessary to use a device to drill the exact hole. The main advantage of such fasteners is the ability to remain invisible, then the furniture acquires a neat and attractive appearance. Another advantage, compared to confirms, is that such furniture fasteners allow you to assemble and disassemble furniture several times without losing its rigidity. In addition, with the help of an eccentric tie, it is possible to fasten parts at an angle;
- Intersectional coupler - represented by a screw and a nut, with the help of which two perpendicular furniture elements are pulled together. It is convenient to fix the headboard and the bottom of the bed, as well as tabletops, with an intersectional coupler. It is necessary to choose fasteners based on the dimensions of the chipboard thickness.
The most popular size of screeds is 32 mm, but this figure can be up to 50 mm.
Eccentric
Intersectional
Shelf supports
A large number of shelf supports allows them to be divided into 2 subgroups: for chipboard and glass parts. V furniture showrooms you can find many models where glass is harmoniously combined with wooden base... In order to qualitatively pull together two materials of different composition, shelf supports are used.
Each of the types can be separately divided into two more categories: with and without fixation. Let's take a closer look at how to fix glass in furniture, as well as how to use a chipboard shelf holder.
When installing shelves in a cabinet or cabinet, shelf holders are indispensable. They should ideally match the style of furniture, be combined with general principles interior.
Previously, the bolt-nut system was widely used to fix furniture parts. With this connection, a hole was drilled in both surfaces where the bolt was threaded. On the other side of the cabinet wall, this bolt was fixed with a nut. Today, a screw with a nut is also used - it is the most simple type connections of furniture parts. The screw is equipped with a semicircular head, which, after being connected to the nut, does not rotate, but remains stationary. This fastener is easy to use, but with the advent of new materials, it faded into the background. Bolts with nuts are suitable for use by craftsmen on entry level assembly.
The advantages of such fasteners are:
- The possibility of self-assembly;
- Parts availability;
- The possibility of reusable assembly and disassembly of furniture.
Among the minuses, the visibility of the mounts can be distinguished, which is why they have ceased to be relevant. Another significant drawback is the ability to connect only parallel surfaces.
Types, depending on the material to which it is attached
Modern manufacturers today use not only chipboard for the manufacture of furniture. Glass is widely used, metal parts, as well as plastic elements. Fasteners for furniture made of chipboard were considered throughout the entire material, and options for screed objects from other raw materials are discussed below:
- Glass - self-tapping-type holders are used, which are screwed into a wall made of concrete or drywall. With their help, shelves and mirror surfaces are fixed without damaging the coating of the part. For glass doors the use of furniture hinges is suitable for the curbstone;
- Metal - for connecting shelves metal shelving screw fasteners are used. They are screwed into the posts using a drill or screwdriver. WITH front side an attractive plug is installed;
- Plastic - plastic parts can be fixed with any chipboard fastener.
We should also highlight the mount dovetail- it is used to connect boxes. The essence of the connection consists in cutting out a comb surface on each part, which is inserted into another part, as a result, butt fixation is obtained. Choose only the type of attachment that best suits your needs. Before buying, be sure to calculate the thickness of the material so that during the assembly process the screws and self-tapping screws do not protrude on the surface.
Modern furniture fittings offers a large assortment of furniture fasteners, each of which has its own field of application, depending on the type of connection and the materials used. In this article, we will take a closer look at the main furniture fasteners that are used to make furniture in professional workshops and do-it-yourselfers.
Furniture dowel
This type of fastening is rarely used independently in the modern furniture industry. It is mainly used only for stiffening in conjunction with eccentric couplers.
Its main function in most cases of building furniture is to prevent the panels from displacing relative to each other and to add additional rigidity to the fastening.
It is usually used in conjunction with an eccentric coupler. It is made from hard rocks natural wood, has a cylindrical shape. This is a very simple and cheap part that is used in wooden joints from time immemorial.
Craftsmen and carpentry workshops who work with wood use the furniture dowel as the main fastening element. In this case, the furniture parts are connected to dowels, which are glued to the parts with PVA glue. In this case, together with PVA, the use of any other screeds no longer makes sense.
Screw tie
The turnbuckle consists of a screw and a barrel. Such a kit is used to fix the end of one panel to the face of another. For example, for attaching a shelf to a side panel or a headboard to a side panel.
This is a very strong fastening due to the long pulling stroke. The only drawback of this fastener is the visibility of the screw head from the face of the panel.
You can, of course, close them with special plugs, but this is not a panacea either. The plugs on the outer panel of the cabinet do not look aesthetically pleasing.
Skills are required to install this type of fastener. Beginners may face such a problem as the inaccurate alignment of the holes of the keg with the hole in the end of the shelf, and it is not so easy to pull the unnecessary keg out of its nest.
But the inconvenience in assembly and the aesthetic error are more than offset by the reliability and durability of the connection.
Conical coupler
Conical tie is often used for fastening thick chipboard panels (25 mm, 38 mm) and assembly frame facades on screeds.
One of its advantages is the absence of visible hats on the front side of the panels. Unlike the screw in the turnbuckle, the stem used in the turnbuckle is screwed into the panel. The screed itself has 2 holes. One - for the rod, which is screwed into the panel layer. The second is for the screw of the tapered tie. The disadvantage of this type of fastener is the small tightening stroke. Under heavy loads, the stem screw holes can loosen over time. Then the screed will simply stop working!
Furniture corner
Quite a simple kind of fastener. Easy to install. It does not require any additional holes in the panels for its installation. There are both metal and plastic options.
Quite durable type of fastening. Of the shortcomings - it is visible and does not look aesthetically pleasing. But this is the main type of fastening in built-in furniture.
Euro screw
This fastener is more often used for assembling kitchen furniture modules and in economy class furniture. As with the screw tie, the Euro screw caps or plugs are visible on the front side of the side panel of the cabinet.
It is screwed into the end of the shelf with a preliminary drilled hole... This screed also belongs to the economy class. To install it, 2 holes are drilled - into the end of the shelf and into the face of the part. They are attached perpendicular to each other. Most often, Euro screws are used with a diameter of 7 mm and a length of 50 or 70 mm.
This screed has 2 significant disadvantages:
Firstly, the outer side of the cabinet, if there are many shelves behind it, as a rule, it is all "disfigured" with hats or Euro screw caps. Therefore, these fasteners are used in economy furniture. In kitchens, this drawback is hidden thanks to the side tables standing in a row.
Secondly, furniture assembled with Euro screws cannot be disassembled and reassembled more than 3 times, since screwing the tie into the end of the shelf destroys its internal structure.
Eccentric coupler
One of the most popular types of fasteners today. All quality furniture it is assembled on an eccentric coupler (minifix). The principle of its operation is as follows: the eccentric rod is screwed into the face of the part, to which the end will be attached to another panel, into which, in turn, the eccentric itself is screwed through the end of the other shelf, and then the eccentric tightens the rod into itself by turning.
An eccentric tie is always used in conjunction with the wooden dowel described earlier. The dowel provides additional rigidity to the assembly, prevents the fixed panels from displacing relative to each other.
Furniture assembled on this screed can be disassembled and reassembled an unlimited number of times! There are different diameters of the eccentric itself 25, 15, 12 mm. The more common eccentric is 15 mm in diameter.
Since the eccentric itself is visible on the side panel, there are plugs for it to match the panel color. Among the disadvantages is the weakening of the tie in the case of spontaneous rotation of the eccentric.
To avoid this, some hardware manufacturers have provided notches directed in the opposite direction from its rotation during installation, which enhances adhesion.
Varieties of eccentric couplers
As practice shows, furniture is assembled and disassembled with great difficulty, if all the fasteners in it - metal tie described above. For example, to remove one shelf, it is necessary, practically, to disassemble a half-cabinet. For horizontal parts (shelves), it is more convenient to use eccentrics, which allow you to place horizontal parts in an already assembled furniture box... Their principle of operation is the same as that of the previously described eccentric coupler. The only difference is that the eccentric, which is in the shelf, is pushed onto the stem screwed into the sidewall plate from above and there is no need to disassemble the half of the cabinet for this. In some factories, this type of fastener is called a shelf support, since it is intended only for horizontal parts. Horizontal shelves assembled using these ties additionally tighten the connection, which increases the rigidity of the entire furniture frame.
There is a wide variety of eccentric-type furniture fasteners on the furniture market, but the principle of operation is the same for all. Knowing the principle of operation of one type of esccentric screed, you can easily figure out the rest.
Recently, they are increasingly popular in the manufacture of furniture corner joints board materials with a bevel "on the mustache". In this article, our colleague friend Sergei Novikov will share the secrets of making such a non-standard grind joint. Unlike a joint with an acute angle, which, firstly, is quite traumatic, and secondly, it is itself prone to chips and deformation with minimal impact, this option is devoid of the above disadvantages.
So, first, using the tire, we saw the mating edges at an angle of 45 degrees. In principle, this can be done on sawing machine but the plunge-cut saw with a bar (2 passes) gives the best results with respect to chipboard.
So, we get two parts with sharp corners, let's go directly to their connection.
To enhance the strength of the joint, we need a lamellar cutter (I think that we can do with the usual one, but with special devices (so far there are only vague outlines in the head). furniture dowels(lamellas).
They do not allow the parts to move during displacement, and also add strength to the final connection, significantly increasing the bonding surface.
We coat the mating surfaces with glue (any PVA-containing adhesives are suitable).
We connect the parts and clamp with clamps until the glue is completely dry. After removing the clamps, glue drips remain at the corner - they can not be removed, because in the future they will fall off by themselves.
The next step is ‘this is corner smoothing. It is carried out either with a corner mill (45 degrees), or cylindrical cutter, but for this the router must have an angular base.
After cutting off the corner, you get such a trapezoidal profile. now our task is to ennoble given angle... You can, of course, just paint it or stick on an edge, but the edge will not hold, and when painting it will not be possible to get a neat flat surface.
The cut must be putty. In this case, a fiberglass car putty is used (which was at hand) but it is better to use more homogeneous mixtures.
Degrease, putty surface. The solution for this must not contain water. Apply the composition with a spatula, rubbing it into the pores and leveling it.
After final drying, we finally smooth the surface with a sanding block with fine sandpaper. Now we paint over it. Cheap spray paint is good for this.
We glue to protect the surface of the cut edge masking tape and paint it 2-3 times. For extra durability and shine, we open it with a layer of acrylic varnish.
1. Main material: Laminated chipboard
Surprisingly, pure wood is the lot of expensive "elite" furniture. In cabinet furniture, wood is almost never found.
The main material from which cabinet furniture is made is laminated chipboard (Laminated chipboard). Usually these are slabs with a thickness of 16 mm. Sheets are also on sale Chipboard thickness 10 mm vs 22 mm. 10 mm laminated chipboard are used as filling blind doors for sliding wardrobes, and 22 mm for shelves in bookcases where high load resistance is required, and ordinary 16 mm chipboard can seriously sag under the weight of books.
Also, sometimes 22 mm parts are used as design elements of furniture products, bringing originality to the design (for example, on top of a regular 16 mm cabinet cover, you can put a protruding cover 22 mm thick more dark color). Such delights are economically feasible only if mass production, since you always have to buy a whole sheet of chipboard for cutting. Usually, all parts of cabinet furniture (except for doors and facades) are made of laminated chipboard 16 mm.
Chipboard is sawn on special machines along guides. Of course, at home, you can saw off something with a jigsaw - but the edges of the seam will be "torn", and the seam itself will probably wiggle from side to side. Achieving a straight saw with a jigsaw is almost impossible.
2. Edges
Saw cut laminated chipboard - represents the most ugly and vulnerability- moisture easily penetrates through it and the material swells and deforms. Therefore, it is recommended to cover all the ends of the chipboard with special edges. Several types of edges are known:
. ABS edge- analogue of PVC edge from other, more environmentally friendly plastic. In addition to environmental friendliness during disposal, the rest of the differences are rather invented by marketers. Not even for sale in our city.
 |
. Wooden and veneer facades- will delight lovers of natural food. True, in the modern plastic world, such facades are quite expensive. Yes, and evil tongues claim that there are so many varnishes and impregnations in this wood that there is only one name from the wood. At least, manufacturing firms strongly recommend regular maintenance of such facades with special chemical means.
. Facades under enamel- painted facades. Their main disadvantage: the coating is very easily scratched, deformed, and does not have resistance to chemicals... Previously, they were only used because of the saturated bright colors... With the advent of acrylic plastics on the market, the demand for painted facades has dropped significantly.
. Aluminum fronts with glass- made in high-tech style. They are beautiful and modern, but difficult to manufacture and require non-standard fittings, often installed simultaneously with the production of the facade.
4. Back walls and bottom of boxes.
Usually, the back walls of furniture, like the bottom of the drawers, are made of LDVP... At the same time, its front laminated side looks into the inside of the drawer or cabinet. The color of the MDF is matched to the color of the used MDF. The sheet thickness is usually 3-5 mm.
At one time there was a fashion to plant such a wall on staples using furniture stapler... This is wrong - the braces last for a limited time, and no matter how strong the structure may seem to you immediately after assembly, after a few years under pressure or deformation it may well disperse. It is especially wrong to put on the staples the bottom of the boxes, which are constantly experiencing pull-off loads. So what about furniture stapler forget - it is applicable only to upholstered furniture.
Sometimes fiberboard is inserted into the groove- but this technology requires milling this groove, and at the same time keeping all the dimensions of the product exactly to the millimeter.
Sometimes the back walls and the bottom of the boxes are made of chipboard. This is practiced to create " ribs"in tall cabinets, and in those drawers where there will be a very large load (20 kg and more). The back wall of the cabinet can be equipped with one or more stiffening ribs made of laminated chipboard, and the rest of the space can be filled with laminated chipboard.
5. Countertops
Table top- a horizontal work surface on which people constantly work (prepare food, eat, write).
Most office desks and cheap options dining rooms are limited to a worktop of the same material as the table itself. It can be laminated chipboard 16 mm or better 22 mm, chrome plated necessarily 2 mm PVC edge.
Special countertops are used for kitchens. Usually they are a sheet of laminated chipboard with a thickness of 28-38 mm, covered with plastic using postforming technology. Such plastic is quite durable. If the cut of the countertop is gray, this is an ordinary chipboard, if it is blue-green, then moisture resistant... Correct kitchen countertops equipped with a silicone strip - the so-called " drip tray", which prevents spilled liquids from flowing down to the kitchen furniture.
The weak point of such tabletops is the edges of the cuts. They are usually edged with melamine to match the color of the tabletop when it is cut. But melamine is afraid of moisture, and often the edges become unusable after a year of operation. Therefore, for the ends of the tabletop, it is recommended to use a special aluminum profile after having thoroughly missed the surface of the saw cut silicone sealant... There is also a profile for joining countertops at a right angle - without sawing them and adjusting them to each other - such a profile is very convenient to use in corner kitchens.
It is not customary to make holes in the tabletop (they spoil the flat surface of the table and dirt is then clogged in them), therefore such a tabletop is usually screwed from the inside self-tapping screws to horizontal struts... In this case, the self-tapping screws should not be too long, so as not to pierce the cover through.
Better quality countertops are considered natural or artificial stone ... Products from natural stone very heavy and require additional maintenance due to the porosity of the material. Artificial stone is devoid of these disadvantages. In addition, the artificial stone countertop can be given almost any size and profile. The only drawback of such countertops today is their price.
6. Location of parts
We have come to those sections that will form your final understanding of how to make cabinet furniture. So, first let's talk about the relative position of the parts.
Detail- any element of cabinet furniture: bottom, lid, sidewall, back wall, facade, shelf. So, every detail can be nested, maybe overhead.
Let's consider this thesis using the example of two kitchen cabinets. One will stand on the floor (on legs), and the other will hang on the wall.
Base cabinet:
As you can see from the figure, it is best when the operating voltage (and for a floor-standing cabinet it is directed from the cover down) naturally transmitted through wooden parts to the point of contact of the product with the support - on the cabinet legs (see the "correct" diagram).
In the second, "wrong" option, the voltage is transmitted to confirmation(this is such a special furniture screw, we will talk about them a little later) - and the effort will constantly try to pull it out of the wood.
Second example: wall cabinet .
Here, the opposite is true: the force is applied to the bottom shelf, the things on it, and the fixing point of the cabinet is higher than the point of application of the force. Natural way (joint wood-based panels) we will not transfer the effort upward in any way. Therefore, the voltage will necessarily be transmitted through the fittings.
If we make the same construction here as in the base cabinet (see diagram "wrong") - all four confirmations will experience constant stress to pull out made of wood. Therefore, out of two evils, we choose the worst: let it be better for the confirmations to experience an effort. at the break(see the diagram "correct").
At first glance, this seems difficult, but believe my experience: after the third designed and assembled product, you will begin to intuitively, without hesitation, determine where this or that part should be located.
7. Furniture fasteners
Furniture fasteners are hardware, which are used to connect furniture parts. Most often, such a connection is made at a right angle of 90 °. all modern types of furniture fasteners are very well described, with detailed description their advantages and disadvantages. Let's go over briefly those with which we will not work.
. Euro screw (confirmation)- special furniture screw. The most common fixing for cabinet furniture. The confirmation is especially well suited for beginners - since it does not require precise addition of parts - you can drill a hole for it already "in place", during the assembly of the product.
Have you noticed that self-tapping screws are almost never used to connect parts? That's right, in the furniture business they are replaced by confirms. Due to the ideal shape for 16mm chipboard, they have a significant large area threads and hold much stronger than self-tapping screws.
 |
 |
To drill holes for confirms, you need special drill- it was not easy to find such a thing in our provincial town. In principle, if there is no such drill, it is not scary: you can get by with three drills of different diameters: for a thread, a neck and a confirmation head.
Confirmations come in several sizes. Usually 7x50 are used. When drilling for confirmation Special attention pay attention to the perpendicularity of the drilling - so that the drill does not "run away" and pierce the wall of the part being drilled.
Confirmates are twisted screwdriver with a hexagonal bit or manually with a special hex key... Confirmates made with a Phillips screwdriver are not correct confirmations! You can never fully tighten these screws.
 |
The main aesthetic drawback of confirmations is, although they remain flush, but still noticeable, hats. In order to hide them they use plastic plugs, inserted into the hats. The color of the plugs is matched to the color of the chipboard.
. Eccentric couplers- the most correct and modern look furniture fasteners. Does not leave marks on the front side of the product, only on the inside. The main disadvantage- requires very accurate drilling, including aligning holes on both sides and limiting the drilling depth (so as not to drill through).
For drilling additives for eccentrics, a special Forstner drill... It is possible to do it manually - but it is very difficult, it is better to have a drilling machine.
If you are assembling furniture, the ends of which will not be displayed for everyone to see, but will be hidden (for example, kitchen cabinet or a wardrobe in a niche) - then there is no point in bothering with eccentrics. Use confirmations.
8. Furniture fittings
The loops can also be adjusted in height and seating depth. This allows you to more accurately align your cabinet door. There are also inset hinges - when, when the door is closed, the facade is recessed into the cabinet (rarely used). Exists whole line hinges for glass doors, in which the glass can be firmly clamped without drilling.
Buy only quality products renowned manufacturers(from inexpensive, you can recommend Chinese Boyard) - so as not to have problems with them in the future. Serious world manufacturers - Austrian Blum, but it's expensive and you still have to try to find it.
9. Boxes and their guides
There are many ways to make furniture boxes... The easiest is to make the perimeter of the box (sides, front and back wall) from laminated chipboard. This method is described in detail and with illustrations. The only thing I do not agree with the author is that instead of nails for fixing the bottom, I would use self-tapping screws.
If a beautiful facade is required, then it is screwed with self-tapping screws to one of the sides of the drawer in the overlay, as shown in the diagram in section 5 (the role of the table top in this case will be played by the drawer facade).
But collecting the box is half the battle. The main thing is to make it open and close. That is, put it on the guides.
Drawer guides are of two types: roller and ball.
. Roller the guides are usually white and are attached to the bottom of the drawer. The box on such guides rides on two rubberized rollers, rumbles due to its unstable position, and at the point of maximum exit strives to fall out of the guides from any sharp jolt. Such guides are bad in that a heavily loaded box will try to tip over from any position when it is pulled out by more than half. The only advantage of such guides is the price: about 30 rbl for a couple.
. Ballpoint guides - or as they are commonly called "guides full extension". These guides are a telescopic structure capable of doubling their length exactly. Inside they contain several tens of balls (as in bearings), which ensures the drawer runs smoothly. The guides are rigidly fixed with self-tapping screws to the cabinet and to the drawer, which excludes the possibility of overturning, and does not allow the box to "go off the rails" regardless of the load and the speed of the jerks.
The installation process of the drawer on the full extension ball guides is well described. The price of such guides is about RUB 100 per set. It is very disappointing to see, when in a kitchen with a total cost of more than 40 sput, the manufacturer crouches and installs roller guides, while saving 70 rubles. I would like, you know, to take and strangle for such a swinish attitude towards the buyer. So if you order a kitchen, immediately stipulate what type of guides the drawers will have.
. Metaboxes- a solution first proposed by an Austrian company Blum... The idea is to save the craftsman from the need to attach the rails to the drawer, and sell ready-made side walls, with built-in rails, holes for the facade and grooves for the back wall. Having bought a metabox, you just have to hang a facade on it, attach the back wall and the bottom (by the way, many metaboxes are designed for the bottom made of chipboard and not fiberboard).
The guides in the metaboxes are roller guides. Accordingly, the metabox is not fully extended. Blum Metabox cost: from 300 before RUB 500... Now many firms, including Chinese ones, produce products with the name "Metabox", which has already become a household name. Here is a good article on calculating and assembling a metabox.
. Tandemboxes- a more technological solution of the same company. If the metabox rides on roller guides, then the tandembox rides on full extension ball guides. The number of balls in them is several hundred. Tandembox is usually equipped with an automatic door closer and shock damper (BluMotion system) - which provides surprisingly pleasant and soft closing of the drawer (always full closing) with one push.
For tall drawers, tandemboxes can be equipped with one or two additional restraints. Tandem boxes are made white and from stainless steel. The latter, of course, are twice as expensive.
If you happen to be on furniture exhibition, stop at the Blum booth. You can't even imagine how pleasant and high-quality the usual furniture fittings can be. But tandembox is also worth it: 1000-2000 rub per set.
10. Doors for wardrobes
The last thing worth telling about in our furniture educational program is wardrobes... In general, a kitchen and a wardrobe are the most accessible and interesting areas of activity for a novice furniture craftsman. Well, not counting, of course, bedside tables and shelves. Living room and bedroom furniture usually requires serious design approach, the use of non-standard or difficult-to-machine materials: natural wood, tempered glass... With kitchens and wardrobes - everything is simple and clear.
The sliding wardrobe comes in two versions: with walls (side and back) and without them. the last option is simply a part of the room (usually a niche) fenced off by sliding doors, inside which you can do whatever you like: shelves, drawers, hangers, and a bunch of other interesting things. Here are listed and given photos of the most common elements of filling wardrobes.
The most interesting and attractive mechanism in the wardrobe is its sliding doors... You can't skimp here, and you only need to acquire high-quality fittings- otherwise, then you will suffer with falling and jamming doors so that you yourself will not be happy. In our city, they only sell decent sliding systems domestic firm Aristo, however, according to reviews, they are quite decent.
A sliding wardrobe usually contains two or three doors. Each door is a canvas enclosed in a special frame made of decorated aluminum profile... At the same time, the door does not have to be uniform - it can create from two or more different canvases connected at any angle using a special profile.
Traditionally, the frame profile for sliding wardrobe doors is designed for a 10-mm door leaf thickness. For the manufacture of blind doors, 10 mm laminated chipboard sheets are usually used. Special sheets can serve as a design alternative. rattan(decorative braiding), bamboo, and even artificial leather (based on chipboard or MDF).
Through dedicated silicone seals 4 mm can be easily inserted into the profile mirror... The main thing is that those who will cut your mirrors for the cabinet do not forget to apply a special elastic film on its back side, which will hold the fragments in case of impact. Even if the child breaks mirror surface, this will significantly reduce the likelihood of injury.
In order for the doors to drive, guides are attached from below and from above. The lower guides of the sliding wardrobe ensure the opening / closing of the door, the upper ones ensure the fixation of the door relative to the depth of the cabinet. The lower rollers are usually made of plastic, equipped with a shock absorbing spring and a screw for height adjustment. The upper rollers have a rubberized surface.
To obtain Additional information on self-production cabinet furniture, I highly recommend reading the following resources:
. http://mebelsoft.net/forum/- Forum of professional furniture makers. Perhaps the largest and most popular resource on this topic.
. http://www.mastercity.ru/forumdisplay.php?f=19- City of craftsmen, section "furniture and interior design". Those who try to do everything with their own hands gather here.
. http://mebelsam.com- DIY furniture. There are many articles and examples of a wide variety of technologies, not only cabinet furniture.
. http://www.makuha.ru- Furniture reference book. A beginner portal, but already contains interesting articles.
Well, that ended our small furniture educational program. I hope you are now full of strength and determination to make cabinet furniture with your own hands. Add a little imagination here in the choice of colors, edges, accessories and curly cuts- and you will be able to make the furniture that you need it.
And it's not even about what happens cheaper and often better than in the store. And it’s not that you don’t limit yourself to factory models anymore. The fact is that things made by you, things in which you put your soul, your enthusiasm and skill - keep the warmth of your hands... I think this is important.