How to drill a large hole straight. How to drill a hole evenly with a drill Drilling horizontal holes with an electric drill in a tree

How to drill a perpendicular hole with a drill

How to drill with a drill correctly and evenly

In areas such as repair, the ability to drill correctly is one of the basic ones. In addition to the general rules, it is important to take into account that the client has nuances when working with a specific material: concrete, tiles, metal, etc. What is left for our client to do Drilling related issues will be covered here.

Electric drill selection:
How to remove a drill from a puncher

As already mentioned, drilling is the most common activity for a repairman if it is important to immediately learn a few basic rules associated with this activity.

Using the right toolkit. There are many drills, each where it is designed for a certain kind of material. Therefore, you should not try to drill on wood, not vice versa. It is also important to consider the conditions in which the tool will be used. For example, when repairing interior spaces do not use industrial drills (it is simply unsafe). It is important to consider not resistance to moisture: for outdoor work, you need an IP34 class tool, if the climate in the area is humid, not IP32, if you have to work in good weather. Indoor use IPX2/
Qualified label. While starting any work, it is important to accurately mark the drilling sites with a marker. There is still an option to stick paper tape under the marker so that the drill does not slide over the material.
Select the required drilling speed. Here everything depends equally on the material, but not on the diameter of the blade. If we are talking about very thin drills (with a diameter of less than three mm), then we need to work at low speeds, less than four hundred per minute. For other drills there is next rule: how thinner drill, the higher the drilling speed required.

Already today, it is important that the handle is securely attached to the shaft of a hand drill. Also, the drill should not be twisted.

Drilling subtleties for various materials

How to drill metal (Video)

The first thing to start with is the selection of drills. They are distinguished by a sharp edge designed for easy entry of the drill into the metal. Ordinary metal drills are good for weakly hard metals like copper, or aluminum, but for something harder (for example, for stainless steel), you need to take titanium carbide products, otherwise chrome-vanadium alloy.

Separately, we should talk about optimal speeds. Common mistake novice masters is to use too many revolutions. In reality, for hard metals, average speeds are used: for example, brass a centimeter thick will optimally be drilled at a speed of 2000-2500 revolutions.

Of course, there are a few things to highlight. What do you need:

If you want to drill a thin iron plate, it must be fixed between two pieces of wood. This is done so that it does not break.
It is sometimes necessary to use a lubricating oil to cool the drill and make drilling easier.
If you want to make a hole in the pipe, then it must be securely fixed. In order to prevent the pipe from flattening under the influence of a drill, a piece of hard wood should be placed inside.

If you follow these simple rules, then even a beginner will understand how to perform drilling with high quality.

How to drill concrete walls (Video)

It is necessary to drill the walls in most often, because without this it is impossible to hang a shelf, a cabinet, it is impossible to install a cornice. It is better to use a puncher for this, as it is also called. These tools are powerful enough to handle hard material like concrete. in other words brick. However, if the wall thickness does not exceed 10-12 cm, then many do not. However, there is no need to take risks if only a low-power tool is available - upon contact with concrete, it can simply break. When the drill is chosen correctly, the following tips will be useful:

#image.jpgBefore starting work, you should make sure that there are no other pipes in the drilling site that allow you to keep accounting (soft) communications.
Drills that are taken for such work are made of hard metals or alloys. The best option would be drills with.
If, during drilling, too dense sections of concrete come across, they must be punched using a small hammer, not a pin (punch).

Although it is possible to drill with a drill in the end, it is worth doing it with caution. Otherwise, breakdowns are usually quite serious. It is better to use specialized tools for this purpose.

How to work with tiles using drills (Video)

Often, people who do not have rich experience in areas such as repairs are afraid to drill such fragile material as tile. However, this can be an urgent need, because you need to attach a variety of cabinets and shelves to something in the kitchen, bathroom or toilet. Alas, to a large extent, the state of the tile after drilling is determined not by the master who takes up the drill, but by the one who laid this tile. A competent tiler lays the tiles so that no voids form between the tiles and the wall. And then careful drilling by no means will harm the tile. When “air pockets” meet between the wall and the tiles, then most likely the tile will crack.

To be able to drill the tiles correctly, you need to take a drill, masking tape, a puncher (or a powerful drill with concrete drills). Next, you will need to do the following:

The drilling site is marked with a piece of masking tape, not a marker. Scotch tape is here to prevent the nail from sliding on the surface of the tile.
Drilling is carried out strictly perpendicular to the material. The number of revolutions should increase gradually: from the minimum to 150-200 revolutions per minute. So you avoid damage to both the material and the tool.
It is important to ensure that the drill does not overheat. If smoke began to go, then the drill must be urgently cooled.

Read also

When the holes are made, of course, insert dowels from them. This is done using a hammer.

Drilling cast iron - how to do it correctly (Video)

Cast iron is a fairly hard material, so drilling it is very difficult. Already today, cast iron products are fragile, so it is important not to crush them. Like other materials, cast iron has its own subtleties regarding drilling.

No rush. This is perhaps the most important rule when working with cast iron. Ours must be done slowly, with extreme care and attention.
The drill must be made of a very hard, not durable alloy; today, it is perfectly sharpened. If you set a goal, the cast iron did not crumble, you need to take drills with an angle of 114-119 degrees.
The drill must not overheat. Sometimes they don't pay attention to the fact that the tool is overheated. This makes it leads to poor quality, as it is also called, even a breakdown.

How to drill a perpendicular hole with a drill | How to drill straight holes

Cashback up to 18% with Aliexpress Video how to get cashback B.

How to carefully drill through wood (Video)

Wood is one of the most "simple" materials to use with a drill. However, in this matter, of course, there are subtleties.

Drilling speed depends on the type of wood. Loose, slightly hard woods will be possible even with a low-power apparatus. Necessarily, the intended diameter of the hole does not play a role - the more difficult it is, the more powerful the drill is needed.
If you set a goal to make large holes, you need to use special crown drills. Their diameter may exceed one hundred twenty mm. As for the depth, the crowns are tentatively suitable for materials up to 20-22 mm thick, but there are special models that can cope with a thickness of more than sixty mm.
If you need to make a blind rather than a through hole, then Forstner drills are perfect for you, which are available in diameters from one to five cm.

Separately, it is worth talking about drilling a bar. Although it is convenient to fix it for further drilling, the large thickness of the material creates certain difficulties. Drilling a beam for further fixing in the holes of the dowels. For standard timber eighteen cm thick, it would be much better to take a drill with a diameter of twenty-five mm not a length of thirty-six cm. You will need to drill slowly, at low speeds. In terms of power, a 1300-1500 watt drill is perfect. If the beam is not too long, then two holes on each side will suffice. When the length of the beam under the dowels is large enough, you will need to make an additional hole in the center. When the holes are made, there is an option to hammer dowels here with a small hammer or sledgehammer.

At what RPM should drilling be done?

One of the important parameters when drilling is per minute. The speed, s busy) you need to drill, depends on the kind of material not the type of drill. Meet general rule: the harder the material, the thicker it is, the smaller the number of revolutions per minute should be made. As for specific figures, they can be seen in the table below.

This table is for conventional twist drills. For specific applications (Frostner drill, etc.), the drilling speeds of various materials differ slightly from those given above.

How drill a hole exactly (Video)

A fairly common problem is that the drill slips off the mark without hole is not done where it is convenient. Paper tape glued on top of the tree helps to deal with this. Also, sometimes such difficulties arise if you have to work with an overly thick drill. Then you should first make a recess in the material with a thinner drill, and then drill, resting against the mark made.

It is important to control the quality of sharpening. If the edges are not sharp enough or sharpened unevenly, then there are variations and problems with the accuracy of drilling.

How to drill perpendicular and vertical hole

Although it is sometimes necessary to drill at an angle, most often vertical holes are made (that is, of course, perpendicular to the surface). If you set the goal of drilling strictly at an angle of ninety degrees, you must use special guides. They will allow you to drill perpendicularly, without deviating in any direction.

The simplest guides allow you to make only vertical holes, but now there are no more complex structures allowing drilling at certain angles.

Perpendicular holes with a hand drill

One not the biggest problem in drilling holes by hand drill- get perpendicular holes equal to the angle of 90° not oval. Here is a suggestion on how to make a simple device that helps to make perfectly perpendicular holes with a drill, to the same depth, not without ovals. It is necessary to consider excellent advice, already today, it helps to decide which of the two ideas is better.

Ways to drill perpendicular holes.

First: You, you saw This trick, when while drilling a hole take any square wooden block without pressing the drill set into the hole against it, you have the illusion that you got it perfectly smooth hole. Right?

Second: Place a drill with a drill in the corner of the "T" shaped fixture. Align the drill bit with the hole mark, do not drill a hole. Let's take a closer look, determine the depth of your future hole, taking into account the depth of the hole not the length of the drill, cut the same rectangular wooden bars from lumber waste. I took two small rectangular pieces of wood. I connected them together with screws, formed a shape similar to the letter "T", and formed a 90 ° angle inside. Now, when the fixture is in the place of the future hole, install the drill-drill without pressing it into the corner of the fixture, drill a hole. Now, as you can see, the drill is kept from tilting, not you just drilling a hole.

If you need to drill a hole of a certain depth? As you can see from the photos, of course, drill a hole to any depth, changing the length of the drill, in other words, the height of the fixture blanks. As you can see from the video below, it was necessary drill holes to a depth of three quarters of an inch, that's exactly what I did.

How drill a hole in a wall without a drill angle? Homo habilis. Magazine for skillful people

Only initially it seems that drilling is not difficult. If it is necessary to obtain not a hole, specifically a hole, then the task is not so simple. A few tricks will help solve the problem.

First of all, how is a hole different from a hole? The hole is drilled in a strictly defined place, and in addition, it has a certain size and direction. In other words, if what happened after drilling exactly matches the idea of the master, then this hole. Otherwise there is a hole.

It is especially difficult to make a good hole in the wall. You have to work with a drill on weight, often in uncomfortable place, I almost didn’t see it - the drill didn’t go at an angle. How to drill a hole in the wall strictly perpendicular? It should be noted that the human eye accurately determines the right angle. When, the accuracy of the eye is completely enough for most of the drilling work needed in everyday life.

The whole trouble is in such a section that the perpendicularity of the hole in the wall is determined by two right angles - vertically not horizontally. And the human eye no longer has the ability to track this. The way out is to provide one of the right angles automatically, without human intervention. Then you will have to follow only one of the corners, not doing the job is much easier.

Most often, the horizontal of the drill is fixed. It is advantageous to substitute some kind of stand to the drilling site, nettle table, in order to move the drill along a solid supporting surface. Often, this can be done quite rarely, since the holes are made on different height don't pick up a stand not often you. A drill with a level greatly facilitates the work. After a little training, the holes are strictly horizontal.

Read also

If there is no level on the drill, then do not run to the store for a new one. It is quite enough to temporarily attach a small building level to the body of the drill with tape.

An additional original method is based on the fact that the human eye can perfectly assess the straightness of various objects. So, nettles, carpenters evaluate the evenness of the rails, “shooting” with their eyes along the part.

For this purpose, a thin mirror is fixed above the drilling site. After a while, it is enough to position the drill so that the reflection of the drill seems to be its exact continuation, without bends or fractures.

Subject to this condition, the drill will be strictly perpendicular to the mirror, and, therefore, not to the wall.

How to drill with a drill smooth hole

Probably do-it-yourselfers use only one drill when working in other words even with a screwdriver.

Therefore, the question of how to make an accurate uneven hole with this tool is not at all idle and does not often arise.

Most often, we need a perfectly even hole, a nettle in the wall, such that the drilling goes exactly at ninety degrees. What if you only have a hand drill not a drill?

Here's a simple tip.

You will need a cut of a bar or board, you will probably find one at home. Its length is not at all so important from ten cm to half a meter, the main thing is that several holes should fit on its surface. The thickness of the bar should start from three cm, it is not necessary to be thinner, because there will be no accuracy, at the same time it makes no sense to choose especially thicker.

1. What you need is a bar, then we take a ruler, as it is also called a square, not a pencil, we don’t mark in the center four equally spaced crosshairs - these are places for holes (usually four are enough). We repeat the same somewhat on the other side of the bar, keeping the dimensions. Upon completion, you must) get points exactly located one below the other.

2.7. Now we lay the bar, conveniently try on, do not drill, trying to accurately observe the angle.

When that four holes are ready, and this will take a couple of minutes, the template is an option to check.

3. We turn it over, do not look at which of the holes turned out to be the most even, that is, it exactly hit the center of the markup on the back of the bar. It will be easy to determine the most ideal attempt thanks to the crosshairs (in the photo it turned out to be the first one).

In this case, in fact, everyone else, now we use the selected hole as a template for walls, as it is also called other surfaces.

I will add that this method is not used at other angles, it is, under such circumstances, it will have to change the markup.

Here is such a simple advice, told much longer than it is done. He took a bar, struck it with a pencil, drilled it, chose it - it takes a couple of minutes. But now you don’t know how to drill an even hole with a drill using a “quick” home-made template.

Read also Like a conventional drill and puncher? How is the wall? - such a question was probably asked by the masters when they had to hang shelves, cornices and nothing else. Concrete is a durable material, so it is extremely difficult to drill. Even how to drill a wall in a panel house, the task can be thought unsolvable. Although, if you know certain secrets, this process...

Drilling a hole with a drill bit

At first glance, when there is a question about how to drill a hole in wood, there is no doubt in most people: just think, wood is not metal and it is easy to drill. Yes, this is partly true if you want to make not a hole in the wood, but a banal hole. And in order to drill a hole in wood correctly and efficiently, you need to listen to the advice of processing masters. wooden structures, who are also called wood modelers.

Rules for drilling holes in wood

The rules are definitely simple, but following them will save you time, hassle, and consumables in the form of wooden blanks and finished parts. So, what you need to pay attention to:

Before drilling, you need to accurately mark the place for the hole.

Choose the right cutting tool. This refers to drills for working with wood, countersinks, spade drills with a drilling depth limiter and annular cutters of the desired diameter.

When drilling, the tool (mostly a drill) must be held strictly vertically.

Use drills designed for specific material only.

Wooden parts must be firmly fixed in a vise.

The cutting tool should be pressed tightly, but with a uniform force.

Drilling holes in wood

Countersinking the screw head hole

Let's start drilling simple holes for a screw or. Usually these holes are small in diameter and it is not difficult to drill them. The only thing that needs to be done is to countersink the hole before drilling, that is, turn the surface of the wood under the screw head. To do this, fix the wood tightly and make a recess in it with a countersink a little more than the height of the screw head or self-tapping screw. After that, firmly pressing the drill of the desired diameter to the surface, drill the hole you need.

There are situations when you need to drill a "blind" hole for a tenon joint. To do this, you need to use a drill with a limiter, which is put on the drill according to the size of the drilling depth.

It is more difficult to make holes in large diameter wood, as the use of conventional cylindrical drills chip the surface of the material, spoiling it. appearance. To successfully cope with this task, blade drills and annular cutters are used.

Drilling with flute drills

Fountain drill

For successful work when drilling with a drill bit, secure the wood firmly in a vise and press the tip of the drill against the surface of the material. Then drill (at low speed) a hole until the tip of the drill appears at the bottom of the wood. Stop drilling and remove the drill bit from the hole, then turn the wood over, clamp it in a vise and drill the hole on the other side. This will prevent the bar from splitting when drilling.

Hole cutter drilling

Hole cutter for wood

An annular cutter is used for drilling holes in wood with a diameter of more than 38 mm. Drilling begins with a pilot drill of small diameter, structurally connected with the cutter in one piece. This ledge serves as a guide for the annular cutter.

Here are some tips from the pros that will surely help you when drilling holes in wood:

a) for vertical drilling, you can set the square parallel to the drill;
b) if you often have to do carpentry work, get a special stand for a drill, which allows you to hold the tool strictly vertically, controls the depth of the holes;
c) be sure to use a vise when drilling to avoid splitting the wood;
d) so that the outlet does not have chips, place it under wooden detail waste bar and drill them together. Especially, this is applicable when making holes in a thin board;
e) if you do not have a drilling depth limiter, wrap the drill in the place of restriction with bright electrical tape or molar tape.

In the process of drilling recesses, a situation often arises in which it is not easy to obtain perfectly even corners. How to drill a perpendicular hole of a certain depth? To do this, you should take the advice of experienced craftsmen. They offer several options for getting out of this situation.

There is practically no such carpentry work, in which a drill and fasteners would not be used. In the drilling process, it is worth knowing about important principles this activity:

you need to drill a hole only at a given point;
the hole has a fixed size;
when drilling, the tool must be at a right angle.

If all of the above requirements are clearly met, we can talk about success in the work:

use of special drills;
clear fixing of the material will help to secure the work and make it noticeably easier;
uniform pressure on the drill.

So, for these purposes, you can use a wooden bar square shape, strongly press a drill with a drill to its base and perform the desired action.

Another method is also associated with the use of a homemade device, only it looks like the letter "T" with inside corner at 90 degrees.

Drilling methods: incomplete holes in products in pairs (a); using an attachment plate (b); c - holes in the corner; g - in planes located at an angle; e - on a cylindrical surface; e - in hollow details.

The drill is placed at one of these points and placed on the mark, after which drilling is performed. Taking into account the length of the drilling device, the depth of the groove is determined.

To get a precise right angle hole, you can use a guide. Its strictly fixed position will avoid mistakes, deviations from given angle. Separate varieties of such a tool help to make grooves not only vertically, but also subject to other angles.

The nozzle has a depth-limiting device, adjustable with a stopper and a spring. The acquisition of such a tool will protect against damage to blanks, furniture.

Conductor use

drill deep hole perpendicular sample is possible with the help of a special device - a conductor. Moreover, such events are carried out not only on a flat base, but also on the rounded parts of the blanks, at the corner points.

Components of the conductor:

A core that allows you to make markings for a drill.
Plastic stencil.
Guide bushings in the amount of 6 pieces, the diameter of which corresponds to 4 mm, 5 mm, 6 mm, 8 mm, 10 mm, 12 mm.

Back to index

Features of the position of the conductor for drilling in different parts of the workpieces

For rounded parts, a recess without corners is used, located on the sole of the device.
At the corner points and on the cylinders, it is worth using the V-shaped element that comes with the kit.
To fix the middle end line of the part, you need to install 2 nails in the corresponding grooves at the corner points of this device. The conductor is rotated so that the fasteners are connected to the edge of the element. The central part of the sleeve, intended for drilling a hole, is placed in the middle of the end part of the part.

A core is taken to mark the center point of the groove.

Install the named element in the middle of the hole and fix the stencil on it.
Put a sleeve on this post with the expanding part upwards, its diameter corresponds to 4 mm, insert it into the template. Such a part must be centered and pressed with a clamp to the material.
Remove the core with the sleeve from the template, which should not move.
The guide sleeve is placed in a stencil of a certain section.
Using a drill, a hole of a certain depth is made.

Back to index

Making a homemade device

Devices for drilling wood: a - the use of an emphasis for drilling holes in round blanks; b - the use of an emphasis for drilling holes in a vertical plane; c - template for drilling the end and plane of the workpiece: 1 - workpiece; 2 - template; 3 - holes in the template; 4 - clamp, with which the template is attached.

In practice, drilling a groove at a right angle can be very difficult. Often for this, many masters use special devices. However, these options are often designed for specific types of drilling equipment. Some are suitable for hand drills with seats for additional handles, and others - for battery.

meet and universal options however they are expensive. For people involved in the manufacture of furniture, this device is indispensable. For a person who makes something in rare cases, the cost will be quite high.

Such an assistant can be made independently, from the remnants of chipboard. The initial blank of such a device looks like bars stuffed on the basis of this material.

Here later you need to help the drill find the correct point and angle of inclination. A small part of the material is installed end-to-end on the main panel.

Before assembling the device, it is worth making a mark for 3 holes with different sections.

3 screws are taken, the diameter of which corresponds to 5 mm, 6.3 mm and 7 mm. According to these dimensions, grooves of 3.5 mm, 4 mm and 4.5 mm are drilled.

Next, the device is assembled. Holes are drilled for the first holding component, which is immediately fixed. After that, a groove is made for another holder. At the time of drilling, a chipboard block is placed between these two parts to create more accurate results for the second element. A self-made device must be strong and must not go in all directions.

Such a device will allow you to make grooves only as a drilling device to create a right angle at the end of the panel. To center the drill and drill a hole on a flat base, an additional fixture is made from this material. To do this, holes are drilled in a chipboard bar in the amount of 3 pieces with a diameter of 3.5 mm, 4 mm and 4.5 mm. Next, marks are fixed on the prepared panels, the drill must pass through the object, a groove is outlined.

As soon as the markings are made correctly, you need to lower the device onto the panel, put the drill, observing a right angle. Now you can drill.

Similarly, grooves are made in the end part. The drill passes through the assistant, the hole is marked, the structure is firmly connected to the side of the manufactured object, after which the drill can be used.

Smart accessory will prevent crooked drilling

Drilling a hole straight at a 90 degree angle is no easy task. It can take a lot of effort to keep the drill straight and vertical. BullseyeBore suggests doing this with multiple laser concentric rings.

The BullseyeBore drill uses a simple red laser to project three rings onto the surface where you are about to drill. In order to keep the drill as level as possible during the process, watch the three rings. The two inner ones will stay in the same position no matter how the drill is tilted, while the outer one can move. Aligning the position of the largest ring with the two smaller ones, you will ensure that the drill is in a strictly vertical position, and the hole will turn out just perfect.

In addition, concentric rings can provide information about the depth of the hole. The distance between the large and medium circles will just indicate the depth of drilling. If the beginning looks like this:

In the middle of the process, the circles will get closer:

And in the end they just merge:

The attachment looks like a small transparent disk with a connector for easy installation on any drill. Lasers, optics and batteries are already installed inside. The disc is smooth, light and impact resistant.

Manufacturers are now developing a model where all the filling will be implanted in a drill chuck.

You can find out more about the project here.

news.e-generator.ru

How to drill correctly: drilling with a drill from "a" to "z"

How to choose a drill
Drill
What and how to drill

Drilling is one of the most frequently performed operations by a home master. And any master faced problems when drilling, especially if the work is thin. And fine work is most often found: a drill half a millimeter has gone - the furniture door is skewed or a simple towel hook in the bathroom has stood obliquely, and it is impossible to re-drill: the tile has just been laid. Elegance and "oakness" are incompatible, so you need to know how to drill with a drill correctly.

Safety

In terms of electrical safety, a commercially available power tool belongs to class II: double working insulation, it is permissible to use it without additional grounding, i.e. such a drill can be plugged into a regular, non-euro socket through an adapter. At the "iron bazaars" you can find a class I tool ("industrial"), with a ground terminal on a metal case. It is dangerous to use it in everyday life, and its cartridge is most often used for a drill with a tapered shank (Morse taper), unsuitable for rotary percussion drilling. Therefore, do not take such a drill, even if it is powerful and inexpensive.

Class I is indicated on the nameplate of the drill, and if there is no designation, the case is partially or completely plastic, and the cord with the euro plug is a class II tool. Class III - a power tool for an operating voltage of up to 42 V (low voltage) can be recognized by the class designation on the nameplate and by a special plug with flat cross-shaped contacts. For the home, it is suitable, but inconvenient: you need a powerful step-down transformer.

For protection against ingress of foreign objects and moisture, power tools and equipment are marked with the letters IP (Ingress Protection) with two numbers after them: the first - from foreign objects, the second - from moisture. If the protection for any position is zero, the letter X is put instead of the corresponding number. So, IP32 drill - can be used outdoors in good weather; IPX2 - only inside, IP34 - outside in fog and drizzle, and IP68 can work during Samoom in the Sahara and under water.

Important: the first digit 2 means that the device is finger-proof; for example, a household socket has a degree of protection IP22. But this in no way means that if a drill chuck with the same degree of protection is grabbed by hand during operation, then it will stop by itself. The IP standard does not guarantee foolproofing.

A conventional three-jaw chuck is accurate and good at rotary drilling. With a rotary percussion drill, it quickly loosens up in it, and the cartridge itself loses accuracy and can completely fail: the threaded clip of the cam mechanism bursts. For work on hard brittle materials, a three-jaw chuck is suitable for occasional use or with a diamond working body in rotation only mode.

In a keyless chuck (it can be recognized by a corrugated plastic holder), the drill is clamped by a collet. Such a cartridge holds the drill better during rotary impact drilling, but is less accurate and is not suitable for fine work. Powerful drills are supplied with a two-sleeve collet chuck - clamping and loosening are made by different rings.

The SDS cartridge (Steck-Dreh-Sitzt, German “inserted-turned-sits” or Special Direct System, a special direct system, English) was invented by Bosh. SDS is ideal for construction work: the system of curly grooves, see Fig., absolutely securely fixes the working body according to the principle of a Chinese puzzle; changing the drill is done with just two easy movements.

Unfortunately, SDS is not suitable for metalwork and carpentry: the accuracy of centering the drill is insufficient. The adapter from a three-jaw chuck to SDS does not make sense: it will become loose from vibration, like a conventional drill. Therefore, the SDS drill is incompatible with the usual fit of the working body.

Note: There are three types of SDS fit: SDS+, SDS Top and SDS Max. SDS Top is rarely used, as an intermediate and generally unsuccessful option; SDS+ is designed for one-handed tools up to 5 kg; SDS Max - for heavy two-handed.

Power and RPM

Buying a rotary impact drill for general works, no need to save on power. The power reserve is needed to create the necessary torque at low speeds. External characteristic collector electric motor with series excitation, used in drills, is close to ideal, but a low-power motor overheats at low speeds from high current. It is also advisable to purchase, if not included, a front captive handle.

The maximum speed of the drill is also important. The diamond tool is literally "eaten up" before our eyes at a rotational speed of less than 1600-1700 rpm; its normal operating speed is from 2500 rpm. Carbide tools need at least 1500 rpm. If you meet a drill at 600-1200 rpm, this is a special tool that is unsuitable for general-purpose work.

For precision work on metal, a simple, only with rotation, low power drill - 120-200 watts is best suited. It will be very useful to have a bed that turns the drill into a desktop drilling machine. And if you also fork out for a turntable to the bed, then a dental bur can mill small parts.

Network or battery?

cordless drill home master needed in two cases:

If you work on the side - your more or less regular earnings.
If you have a non-electrified cottage or garage.

In any case, an expensive professional drill with a lithium battery and a charge time of 10-20 minutes is unlikely to pay for itself. This is an option for professionals working full-time day-to-day. And you can use a regular alkaline battery, charged in 4-8 hours. In extreme cases, it can be “pumped up” on a hole or two in half an hour.

Section Summary

All of the above can be summarized in the following recommendations:

Regular construction work, including metal structures - need a hammer drill and impact drill 350 W or higher.
Periodic homework - rotary impact drill from 250 watts.
For precise drilling - an additional precision drill for rotary drilling at 120-150 W; preferably - with a bed.

Drill

Drills for drills are most commonly used of the following types:

Spiral - come in tool steel, coated with hard alloy, with a hard alloy insert and solid carbide. Used for all types of work on any materials.
Fountain drills can drill wood, MDF and plastic. Allows you to drill large holes. They are made either in one piece or as a set of a shank with a groove and several inserts of different diameters. Such a set is cheaper than a set of solid nibs, but less accurate.
Crown (crowns) are used for excavating holes in hard brittle materials - stone, concrete and drilling wide holes in chipboard and fiberboard. Available with and without centering twist drill. The latter are cheaper, but only suitable for stone and require strong working skills.
A circular drill (central drill, ballerina) drills holes of large diameter in thin, strong, but brittle materials with a decorative front surface, such as tiles or polished decorative stone. The drilling diameter of the circular drill can be continuously changed. Rotary impact drilling with a circular drill is unacceptable.
Diamond drills are thin-walled tubes made of a special alloy with diamond coating. They can drill glass, polished decorative stone, glazed ceramic tiles. Roads require careful handling and precise adherence to drilling technology.

Drill sharpening

Self-sharpening of drills is acceptable for twist drills and feather drills. The first ones are sharpened with a diamond file - they are made of tool steel. Cheap kits can be made from regular carbon steel; their feathers can be edited with an ordinary needle file.

Twist drills are sharpened with an emery wheel (carbide - diamond) using a wedge tool with an angle equal to 180 degrees minus half the sharpening angle. So, with a sharpening angle of 120 degrees, the wedge angle is needed at 30 degrees. In the hypotenuse (oblique side) of the wedge, a longitudinal hollow or a blind hole is made, in which the drill is smoothly rotated during sharpening. The best sharpening is obtained with a fine ("velvet") hand emery wheel, see fig. below.

For different materials needed different angles drill sharpening. Metal is most often drilled with drills with a sharpening angle of 116 degrees, concrete and stone - 90 degrees, wood - 60-90 degrees. Accurate angles and methods of sharpening drills different type for different materials can be found in the material processing reference manuals.

About Carbide

Hard alloys for drills are made on the basis of compounds of boron, tungsten or zirconium. The cheapest ones are based on boron, but such a drill will take concrete with great difficulty and will quickly wear out. Such drills are marked "by stone". Drill them decorative materials it is impossible - the edges of the hole will be chipped. Tungsten and zirconium compounds differ primarily in durability: zirconium compounds last longer. They are correspondingly more expensive.

What and how to drill

For any drilling, the locations of the holes must be marked. For metal, this is done with a punch, and for glass, ceramics and stone, either with a special diamond punch, or with a half of a victorious roller from an old glass cutter, clamped into a makeshift clip. Punching (more precisely, scratching with rotation) hole marks in brittle hard materials must be done manually. Now let's move on to drilling technology.

Steel, brass, bronze, solid alloy

Drilling of metal of ordinary viscosity is carried out at medium drill speeds, 400-1000 rpm, depending on the hole diameter: 400 revolutions - at maximum for conventional drill drill diameter 13 mm; 1000 - with a diameter of 3 mm. For smaller diameters, the speed is again reduced to the same 400 rpm for 1 mm.

Turnovers mean the maximum, at idle. In the process of drilling, the regulator itself will reduce them according to the tool feed, i.e. according to how hard you lean on it. The selection of feed for manual drilling on weight requires a certain skill: if the feed is too low, the crumb will go, the hole will turn out with uneven walls. And from the same crumbs, the drill will overheat and quickly become dull.

With excessive feed, the so-called drain chips will go - thick, curling in a spiral. The result is the same. In order for the feeding skill to be developed faster, even small holes need to be drilled with two hands, with a cap handle. The chips should be thin and brittle. For steels 42 and 44 (ordinary structural steels), chips with a bluish tint are acceptable.

Bronze and some grades of duralumin require special attention: they do not give drain chips at all, and duralumin sharply loses strength when heated above 160 degrees. It is permissible to follow bronze by tint: its appearance is undesirable. Dural, on the other hand, must be cooled with liquid engine oil: if it boils, you need to press lighter.

You can set the idle speed by clicking the knob. If the drill is at 2800 rpm and the adjuster is 14 clicks edge to edge, then 1 click is 200 rpm. The adjusting characteristic of the regulator is not always linear, so you need to carefully monitor the drilling process and then give the necessary correction: know at what clicks of this particular tool you need to drill this material.

Note: when drilling steel and brass, lubrication is not needed, it will only prevent proper chips from forming.

Sheet metal

For the same materials, but sheet, so that drilling does not lead to sheet deflection, two methods can be recommended:

When drilling from the bed, give more speed, up to 1500-2000, and quickly “pierce” the sheet, which should lie on a wooden pillow. To prevent the sheet from turning and injuring you, it must be fixed with nails driven into the pillow at its edges, or pressed to the table with a clamp; better - two.
When drilling on the fly, as soon as an increased resistance to the feed is felt (this means that the drill is about to come out), you need to drill the hole on the other side, flushing the “pimples” inside with a center punch.

But radical way to get a wide hole in a thin sheet of metal with a conventional drill - first drill a hole with a diameter equal to the thickness of the sheet, then expand it in one or three steps to the diameter of the required hole minus double the thickness of the metal, and drill it clean. Each subsequent hole should be wider than the previous one by twice the thickness of the metal. The maximum allowable diameter is 5-6 metal thicknesses. That is, in a 2 mm sheet, you can drill a hole with a diameter of 13 mm, and it will be round, and not like a triangle with very smooth corners.

Aluminum

Aluminum is a soft metal, very ductile and fusible: its melting point is only 660 degrees. Because of this, when drilling, it may melt on cutting edge, blurring of the hole, swelling of its edges and biting of the drill. Therefore, when drilling aluminum, it is necessary to give one and a half times less revolutions than for other metals, cool the drill with liquid engine oil, emulsion or water, and feed the tool a little, without leaning.

The drill for aluminum must be sharp, factory-ground or sharpened on a special machine. Drills resharpened by hand are not suitable for aluminum.

Stainless steel

Stainless steel is drilled in the same way as structural steel, but with a solid carbide drill ground to metal. Such drills are very fragile, so you need to feed the tool easily and without the slightest distortion. It is best to drill with a low-power precision drill in the frame.

Wood, MDF and plastic

Commercial wood is drilled with a twist drill sharpened under a tree or a feather drill. Dense breeds (oak, beech, walnut) can be drilled with a hole saw with a center drill. Drill revolutions - 400-600 for a twist drill and 200-500 for nibs and crowns.

Drilling plastic windows, MDF, plastic tiles and polished wood is produced either with a special drill for wood (with shaped sharpening and a centering threaded cone), or with solid blade drills. In the latter case, a centering hole of 3-5 mm is pre-drilled; it can be drilled with a conventional drill. Turnovers are the same as for commercial wood; feed - easy, without pressure.

Concrete and reinforced concrete

Drilling of concrete is carried out with special drills for concrete with a superhard solder or insert, in a percussion-rotary way at medium or 2/3 of the maximum speed of the drill. Best Option- SDS drill. If reinforced concrete is drilled, then the drill hitting the reinforcement most often leads to its damage: the hard tip is chipped off. Therefore, before drilling reinforced concrete, it is highly desirable to determine the location of the reinforcement with a reinforcement detector; This device works on the principle of a metal detector.

Drilling holes in the walls for socket boxes is carried out with a stone crown (for brick walls) or concrete, with the same precautions for reinforced concrete. If the hole is drilled with a crown without a centering drill, then it is tightly, without skew, applied to the wall, pressed, and the drill is turned on sharply, with quick pressure.

There is a special tool and technology for through wall drilling, but this is the subject of a special description.

Ceramics and stone

How to drill tiles is, without exaggeration, a whole science. The material is decorative, chipping of the edges of the hole is unacceptable. Drill already laid tiles, so that cracking is also unacceptable. On a smooth surface, the drill can easily slip off, which again is unacceptable. Drilling - only rotation.

Drilling ceramic tiles is done as follows:

A hole with a diameter greater than the thickness of the centering drill web is punched manually with a diamond or carbide center punch; its diameter is 2.5-3 mm. When drilling a large diameter hole, the diameter of the centering drill should be equal to the diameter of the centering rod of the circular drill.
A centering hole is drilled with a concrete drill. When drilling holes for dowels up to 6 mm, you can immediately drill clean.
With a finishing drill for concrete, the hole is drilled completely.

Porcelain stoneware is drilled in the same way as ceramic tile. Drill speed - maximum, except for drilling with a circular drill; feed is light, minimal. It is desirable to provide continuous cooling of the working area with water. It is impossible to cool the tile with oil - when heated, it can spoil the decorative surface.

Drilling ceramics with a circular drill requires special care and firm hands: misalignment is not allowed, and the drill is not balanced. Even experienced workers need to drill with a drill with two hands, throwing the front handle on the drill. Turnovers - higher, but not more than 900, because. at large, an unbalanced drill will break the hole and cut off its edges.

Video: how to drill tiles

Solid stone and glass

Glass, granite and other brecciated (granular) hard stone with quartz inclusions should be drilled with a diamond drill. This is a job for an ace and a drilling virtuoso. A low-power precision drill is set to maximum speed, they are tried on, having aligned horizontally and vertically by eye, they are turned on immediately “to full” and slowly, smoothly the drill is inserted into the material. Pressing and tilting are not allowed.

If the piece to be processed can be laid on the table, then glass and stone can be drilled from the bed in the ancient Egyptian way: with a copper tube with quartz (not sea shell) sand:

A roller 1-1.5 cm high is made around the drilling site from plasticine or putty.
In the formed hole pour fine quartz sand and moisten it to a liquid slurry.
A flat thin-walled copper tube is loaded into the drill chuck.
The drill is set to the MINIMUM speed.
They drill with a series of short light pecks at the weakest pressure. Sand eats into copper, and the points of its grains, which have the greatest strength, gnaw at the material.

Note: the exact diameter will not work, but you will get a matte spot around the hole.

Video: examples of glass drilling at home

Holes in pipes

If a piece of pipe can be laid in the center or clamped in a vise, then it is better to drill with an accurate drill from the bed. If you have to drill on weight, then after punching, the mark must be expanded to a diameter exceeding the thickness of the drill jumper. For metal, this can be done with a carbide drill, rotating it with your fingers with light pressure; on PVC - with the tip of a penknife.

Then the tip of the main drill is inserted into the hole with the drill turned off, the tool is leveled and tried on, as when drilling tiles, lightly pressed and the drill is turned on, gradually increasing the speed. If the hole diameter is more than 1/5 of the pipe diameter, then a centering hole of 2-4 mm in diameter is first drilled. In general, with some skill, drilling holes in pipes is not a difficult job. You just need to be careful: when drilling on weight, the drill, splashing, can damage the wall or furniture.

square holes

Can you drill square holes? Yes, you can, if you use a drill in the form of the so-called Renault triangle - the simplest figure, as mathematicians say, of constant width. Renault drills come with a fixing frame; it is attached to the drill with a barbell and a clamp. The corners of the hole will be rounded, but the imperceptible area of the hole will be only 2%.

However, a drill can drill square holes only in wood, plywood and not very durable plastic: such drilling requires a lot of power, and there are huge lateral forces on the tool. Square holes in metal are drilled on special machines, but ceramics and stone cannot be drilled like this at all: lateral forces will blow the part into pieces.

Somehow piercing a clumsy hole with a drill is a simple matter. But drilling an even, round and neat hole is a job for a real master, who is knowledgeable, intelligent and with skillful hands.

remstroy.net

How to use a drill: how to pull out and insert a drill, what to do if the drill brushes spark, video instructions

Main functions of the tool

The main purpose of an electric drill is to drill holes in materials. It was for this that Wilhelm Fein invented it in 1895.

Inside the plastic case are the components:

electric motor;
starting switch;
reducer;
reverse;
retainer;
capacitor;
impact mechanism.

A cartridge for nozzles is attached to the shaft (spindle) of the drill using a thread and a fixing screw.

Drill set

The fixed drill rotates both to the right and to the left. For this, a reverse switch is placed on the body. In this mode, it is only allowed to withdraw the drill from the hole or unscrew the screws and screws. Include on short term at low speeds.

Drill operating modes

Many had to hammer the wall with a bolt in order to hang a cornice or a picture. Now this is done with a drill, setting the correct mode of operation.

Unstressed. In this mode, joinery and locksmith work is carried out.
Shock. For work with concrete, brick or stone base. The rotating drill moves in the longitudinal direction and makes translational (impact) movements.

The speed of the drill for different tasks is different and is regulated in two ways.

Mechanical. The desired position is set on the scale. As the speed decreases, the torque increases. The output power does not change, even under load. You can set the speed while the drill is running.
Electronic. The built-in rheostat regulates the speed. When you lightly press the switch key, the drill rotates at low speed. As the pressure increases, the speed increases until it reaches the set limit. The extreme value can be limited by a special wheel on the button. The output power is reduced with this method.

Drill locking mechanism

A drill that is inserted incorrectly is difficult to work with. It breaks or flies out, resulting in an uneven hole.

The drill has a chuck. An adjusting ring moves along the surface of the hollow cylinder. The chuck is mounted on the drill shaft with a base with a threaded or conical hole.

How to insert a drill into a chuck

Step 1. The jaws of the chuck are closed.

Closed chuck jaws

Step 2. Rotate the adjusting ring counterclockwise by hand. The cams inside the chuck diverge to a distance slightly larger than the size of the drill.

Turn the ring counterclockwise by hand

Step 3. We insert the drill into the chuck to the fullest possible depth. The diameter of the clamped tool is allowed 2 - 13 mm.

Insert a drill between the jaws

Step 4. By rotating the adjusting ring clockwise, we clamp the drill.

Turn the adjusting ring clockwise

Step 5. We insert the key for the drill into the hole on the chuck body so that the teeth on the key and the chuck are closed.

Insert the key into the holes of the chuck

Step 6 With a little pressure, turn the key clockwise until it stops to securely fix the drill. There are 2 - 3 turnkey holes, we insert into each in turn for uniform clamping.

Turn the key clockwise until it stops

Step 7. The drill is ready to go.

View of a drill with a fixed drill

Before carrying out any maintenance work, remove the plug from the socket.

In order not to lose the key, the masters fix it with electrical tape on the drill wire.

Less commonly used keyless chuck, which is twisted without a key. Available with one or two anti-slip adjusting sleeves. If there is only one sleeve, the body of the drill is held motionless. If there are two sleeves, the part fixed on the spindle remains stationary. The movable part is turned by hand: when fixing the drill clockwise, when removing it against.

How to remove a drill from a chuck

The drill can only be removed from the switched off tool.

Rotating, the drill and the chuck are very hot. Do not touch them with bare hands immediately after turning off.

If there are no troubles with the drill, such as jamming or breakage, it is easy to get it out of the chuck. Operate in reverse order.

The key is inserted in turn into the holes of the cartridge, slightly turned counterclockwise. The compression of the cams weakens.
The adjusting ring is manually turned counterclockwise. The fists inside diverge.
Take out the drill.

If the drill has a locking mechanism, first press the lock button.

How to use a drill: basic rules

Beginning of work

Before switching on, check the plug and cord. If damaged, the drill must not be used. The plug must fit snugly into the socket.
The side handle (if present) is put on the spindle and fixed in any direction. It gives you more control over the instrument.
The drill is tightly fixed in the drill.
Set the switch to drill/drill mode.
To limit the depth, set and fix the position of the limiter.
The regulator sets the speed limit.
There are drills with the function of recognizing the diameter of the drill in the range of 3 - 13 mm. In this case, automation takes into account the size of the drill and the material being processed. The optimum speed is determined by the autopilot. Automation cannot be used if the drill is larger in diameter than the shank. Then the desired speed is set manually.
Press the switch key. If the speed control is electronic, it is changed by smoothly pressing the trigger.

How to make a vertical, horizontal, angled hole in wood

During drilling, the workpiece or part is tightly clamped in a vice on a workbench or with clamps to the desktop.

In no case should you hold the part with your hands, both hands should be free.

Holes with an electric drill in any material are drilled only at an angle of 900.

How to drill a vertical hole

Put the drill in drilling mode.
Select speed: the thinner the drill, the higher. The diameters of the drill and the screw shaft must be equal. Otherwise, the screw is difficult to insert, the wood cracks.
If the hole is through, it is good to place a wooden block under the workpiece. So the edges of the hole do not split when the drill exits.
If the hole is blind, its diameter and depth should be the same as for a screw. Even if you screw in self-tapping screws, pre-drilling lightly will facilitate the work.
The drill enters the surface only at a right angle. Having fixed the tip of the drill in the wood, to obtain a smooth edge of the hole, turn on top speed. The higher the speed, the more precisely the drill moves and cuts the wood fibers.

Video: how to drill a perpendicular hole using homemade products

For a horizontal hole, only the workpiece is moved. If an angled hole is required, the desired position of the part is set in a vise. It is firmly clamped with a bias so that the drill enters perpendicular to the surface.

Locksmith vise with gaskets

If a hole is needed in the part non-standard shape(for example, cylindrical), prepare one or more gaskets. They fix the desired position of the workpiece in a vise and guide the drill (preferably with a centering point) to the drilling point.

The drill is only included in flat surface. Professionals use a jig for drilling at an angle, which is attached to the part.

Angle drilling jig

The simplest conductor can be made independently.

In a bar with a thickness of 50 - 60 mm, drill a hole at an angle of 900 with a depth of not more than 5 mm.
Without removing the drill from the hole, change its direction to the desired angle. Pre-drilling will prevent it from slipping out. Drill the bar to the full depth.
The primitive conductor is ready. The drilled hole will serve as a guide for the drill.

If the masters do not want to use conductors, they come up with convenient devices for themselves.

Video: angle drilling fixture

How to drill holes in concrete and masonry

If perpendicular holes are drilled during construction work, the support post will ensure the exact direction of the drill. The drilling depth gauge will tell you when to stop. If it is not included in the drill package, do it yourself. A wooden cube is “cut” onto the drill with which they will work. free plot drill equals the desired depth. Or they wind tape on a drill in front of such a section.

Only the perforator can withstand a long load in shock mode. But for short-term work, a drill is suitable. To do this, set the shock mode and work at high speeds. It is important to make sure that there are no hidden wiring or fittings in the wall or ceiling.

When drilling such surfaces, a lot of dust and debris gets on the drill, you need to clean it in a timely manner.

At the end of the work, the cartridge is blown with a jet compressed air.

Quickly drill through walls or ceilings with drills marked "for concrete" with a carbide cutting tip. Ideally, if they have a hex shank. The maximum drilling diameter in concrete is 16 mm. If the holes are up to 8 mm, it is easy to work with diamond drills.

Video: a hole in a concrete wall for a plinth

For drilling large diameter holes (for electrical outlet) use an annular nozzle.

When drilling bricks, carbide drills with victorious soldering. Drilling at high speeds in shock mode. It is important that no electrical wiring passes inside the masonry. The drilling site is marked with a center punch, the tip of the drill is placed in the hole. Drill perpendicularly so as not to break the drill. The process requires gentle pressure on the drill and regular cooling of the drill in cold water.

When using a drill in impact mode, safety goggles are a must. They will protect your eyes from dust, pieces of concrete and bricks.

How to drill metals

The maximum allowable drill diameter when working with steel is 13 mm.

For steel, drills marked "for metal" are chosen. If the part is small, fix it in a vise. Determine the place of drilling with a center punch, lightly hit. A small depression is formed, the end of the drill is placed into it at a right angle. Drill metal with constant pressure. If the metal is hard, drilling is slow. Soft metal is processed at medium speeds.

The drill is removed from the drilled metal without turning off the drill. Turn off when it is completely out of the hole.

They work with metal in goggles, in tight-fitting clothes with long sleeves, so as not to suffer from sparks and prickly metal chips.

For of stainless steel use drills marked "for stainless steel". A simple drill immediately overheats during operation, and the viscous metal melts. For cooling, special compositions based on sulfur and machine oil are used. The drill is set to the minimum speed (100–600). If there is no smooth adjustment, they drill gradually: they start the tool for 1–2 seconds and immediately turn it off.

Video: how to drill metal

After long work at low speed, the drill is switched to maximum speed. Let it idle for 2-3 minutes to cool down.

For cast iron, drills "for cast iron" with a special sharpening are used. But it is difficult to find them, so they choose carbide drills for metal. Cast iron is a hard material, but it breaks easily if handled carelessly. The chosen place is cleaned. Drilling starts with a small diameter at low speed, constantly cooling the drill with a kerosene or water-based solution. Haste and increased pressure will only hurt.

Excessive pressure damages the tool. It is better to start drilling with small drill diameters or with less pressure on the drill.

For a channel, metal drills are needed from 3.5 mm to the desired one in increments of 2–3 mm. Drill holes are stuffed with a center punch. Drill with low pressure, starting with a smaller diameter, gradually reaming the hole. Drills are constantly lubricated with machine oil. It is easier to use diamond drills.

How to make a groove in a tree

The workpiece is securely fixed in a vise or clamp to avoid scrolling and prevent accidents. It is strictly forbidden to hold it in your hands.

To make a clean, smooth, even groove can only be done with a cutter. In the absence of a milling machine, the craftsmen fix a cutter from a milling cutter with a shank with a diameter of 8 mm into a drill. The spindle speed of the drill is not enough for serious processing. The option is only suitable for rough work.

To make gutters, channels will help a nozzle for drilling wood. The six-flute serrated drill drills at high speed. The wood does not split, the surface remains smooth. Drilling takes place in three directions and succeeds where ordinary drills fail.

For small rough grooves, a special drill bit with longitudinal cutting edges and transverse cuts is used.

Video: drill cutter in action

Method of home masters

They are used when there are no cutters and such a drill.

Markings are made on the workpiece and a groove is simply drilled, controlling the depth. If the drill is electronically adjustable, start at low speed. When there is no such function, special wood drills are used. They are helical, made of high strength steel and have a centering point. The tip of the drill is fixed in the tree, turn on the maximum speed.

Jumpers remain between the holes, which are then removed with a chisel and cleaned with sandpaper.

For holes with a diameter of 10–32 mm, ring drills are used.

How to drill a tile

Sometimes you need a hole in the wall lined with tiles. Tiles, tiles and other materials that crack should not be hammer drilled. If the hole is small, drill ceramic tiles with a drill for glass and tiles until it stops. Then insert a drill for concrete and continue to work in punch mode. For a large hole, drill a tile with a diamond-coated core drill, then continue to work on concrete.

Why are sparks in a drill dangerous?

An electric drill, like any other power tool, requires systematic maintenance. Spare parts wear out during operation, the lubricant dries up.

Drill brushes require regular replacement. One of the manifestations of the problem is that with normal voltage in the network, the electric motor does not work. A bright signal is the formation of an all-round fire on the collector. The sight is beautiful, but dangerous. In order not to ruin the anchor of the drill, they are changed. It is advisable to buy original, not Chinese ones. With them, the tool will last much longer.

Please note: brushes are not universal. If you do not know what size you need, take the old one with you for a sample.

Graphite brushes for drill

The design of the drill allows you to replace the brushes yourself. There are models in which there are installation windows for brushes on the body. The replacement is simple:

Plugs are unscrewed from the installation windows.
Take out worn brushes.
Install new brushes.
Screw caps.

Other models require minimal drill disassembly:

Unscrew all screws on the case. Remove cover. It is more convenient to leave the screws in it in their “native” places.
Take out the brush holders, remove the worn brushes from them.
Insert new brushes, firmly drowning the spring.
Insert the brush holders into place, tighten the electrical contact of the supply wire well.
Close the housing cover, tighten the screws.

Video: how to replace brushes

Nozzles: saving effort and money

If you make a rating of power tools for which manufacturers produce additional nozzles and accessories, the electric drill is the leader in it. The drilling tool turns into a multifunctional machine for repair work. She saws, cuts, mills, grinds and much more. In terms of performance, it will not fully replace every tool, but it solves short-term tasks for a home master.

To work, the nozzle shank is clamped in the drill chuck, like a simple drill, and the drilling mode is set.

Grinding and polishing

For grinding, a nozzle for circles with Velcro is used, where abrasive circles of different grain sizes are attached. Cup or disc grind metal, wood. In hard-to-reach places use a fan nozzle.

A file attachment is a pin that is attached to the chuck at one end. On the other, it has soldering in the form of a cone, bullet or ball. They are called skewers. The nozzle bores and grinds the holes. Rasps are used for rough grinding, deburring.

The drill becomes an electric grinder with special nozzles. The sharpening angle is adjustable, you can sharpen anything: drills, chisels, disk blades.

Properly sharpened drills give the quality of drilling, jam less often, save the tool.

Polishing nozzles: soft felt, special for the car, polishing the ends of the skin and others. To work with rotation in any direction, choose a speed of 1000 revolutions.

Nozzle scissors on the drill "Cricket"

With such a nozzle, the drill becomes a nibbling scissors for sheet metal, corrugated board and plastic. The shank is attached to the drill chuck. It has two cutting heads that are set to the desired degree. At a speed of 3000 revolutions, it gives a burr-free cut. You can abruptly change the direction of the cut for the manufacture of figured parts.

Video: nozzle "Cricket" in action

Nozzles that make it easier

Corner. Works in hard-to-reach places like a drill and a screwdriver.

Cutters for drywall. Used in the installation of sockets, junction boxes.

Flexible shaft. One side is attached to the drill chuck, the drill chuck is on the other end. Drills where a drill without such a nozzle can not cope.

How else to use a drill

Like a drilling machine

A well-equipped home workshop necessarily includes a stand for an electric drill. Only using this guide attachment, they do complex work. For example, with special accuracy, up to tenths of a millimeter, a hole is drilled. A drill stand with a fixed drill turns into a drill press.

It is necessary when working with hard materials that are difficult to process. Without a strict direction, the drill does not plunge into the depth, but only scratches such a surface.

A stand with 900 or 3600 rotation of the working head or clamping device is preferred.

If the movable tripods are firmly fixed on the desktop, they drill both perpendicularly and at the right angle to the surface of the workpiece. In addition, tripods keep the drill from shifting to the side. Set screws will help to accurately maintain the specified drilling depth.

The drill is clamped in the stand - the compact home drilling machine with smooth feed is ready to work. Manufacturers allow only tools marked “professional” to be used in it.

Video: homemade electric drill stand

If you fix a milling machine with an upper spindle on the rack, you get a home milling machine.

Like a screwdriver

The drill easily replaces the screwdriver. To work with screws, screws, remove jammed nozzles, turn on the reverse. Screws and bolts are turned at low speed.

Be careful, when tightening long screws, the drill may slip.

The directions of rotation are switched by the reverse lever after the drill stops.

Drill like a mixer

Manufacturers produce drill mixer attachments that mix liquid and powder materials from the bottom up. The drill will master the volume of no more than 10 liters. It is better not to practice this mode for a long time. Not suitable for heavy concrete mixes.

It is better to use special drill-mixers. In their design there are additional handles. The intended purpose is the mixing of mixtures. Comes complete with nozzles, works for a long time without overheating. As a drill, it only supports drilling mode. The price of such units is much higher.

Drill mixer has additional handles

Drill: unexpected use

An electric drill is bought for drilling. Then they discover new great ideas applications.

Cut steel rope, copper and aluminum cable sector nozzle.
Remove dust by connecting the dust extractor to the vacuum cleaner.
Cut threads in blind holes without fear of breaking the tap, at minimum torque.
Calibrate PP-R pipes with a calibrator attachment.
Pumping and pumping liquids with a nozzle-pump.
Pinch the bird. Soft beater fingers of the nozzle do not damage the skin.
Cream honey with a stainless steel nozzle similar to a mixer.

Video: amusing homemade products for an electric drill

Proper handling prolongs life

In order for a home electric station wagon to help for many years, a number of rules are followed.

Do not allow mechanical damage (bumps, falls).
Constant overload mode is dangerous. When the indicator is on, the power tool is working at its limit.
Avoid prolonged continuous operation. A non-professional tool needs frequent rest. Periodically check the temperature of the case: if you can’t hold your palm on it, the drill is turned off. They recommend 15 minutes of work, then a break until the temperature of the drill compares with the ambient temperature. The total operating time per day is 4 - 5 hours, the intervals for turning on and resting are approximately the same.
Do not use during rain or snow, in a very dusty room.
Rooms with aggressive or explosive environments can have a threatening effect on the parts of the drill. Power tool generates sparks, dust or fumes may ignite.
Work with caution in the area of \u200b\u200belectric wiring.
Turning the drill on and off is carried out at idle.
The drill is not released from the hands until the rotation of the cartridge stops completely, so as not to lose control over it.
After work, clean the dirt and dust in the ventilation holes on the motor housing.
During long breaks in work, the cartridge and spindle are covered with a layer of conservation lubricant (technical petroleum jelly).

How do drills usually differ from each other? Power, modes, speed and a set of additional functions. They are different: miniature and large, rechargeable and mains powered, made of cheap plastic and with heaped anti-slip inserts. But each of them is the queen in the realm of home power tools.

Safety

Important: the first number 2 means that the device is finger-proof; for example, a household socket has a degree of protection IP22. But this in no way means that if a drill chuck with the same degree of protection is grabbed by hand during operation, then it will stop by itself. The IP standard does not guarantee foolproofing.

Cartridge

Note: There are three types of SDS fit: SDS+, SDS Top and SDS Max. SDS Top is rarely used, as an intermediate and generally unsuccessful option; SDS+ is designed for one-handed tools up to 5 kg; SDS Max - for heavy two-handed.

Power and RPM

When buying a rotary impact drill for general work, you do not need to save on power. The power reserve is needed to create the necessary torque at low speeds. The external characteristic of the collector electric motor with sequential excitation used in drills is close to ideal, but the low-power motor overheats at low speeds from high current. It is also advisable to purchase, if not included, a front captive handle.

Network or battery?

A cordless drill is needed for a home master in two cases:

If you work on the side - your more or less regular earnings.
If you have a non-electrified cottage or garage.

Section Summary

All of the above can be summarized in the following recommendations:

Regular construction work, including metal structures - need a hammer drill and impact drill 350 W or higher.
Periodic homework - rotary impact drill from 250 watts.
For precise drilling - an additional precision drill for rotary drilling at 120-150 W; preferably - with a bed.

Drill

Drills for drills are most commonly used of the following types:

Spiral - come in tool steel, coated with hard alloy, with a hard alloy insert and solid carbide. Used for all types of work on any materials.
Fountain drills can drill wood, MDF and plastic. Allows you to drill large holes. They are made either in one piece or as a set of a shank with a groove and several inserts of different diameters. Such a set is cheaper than a set of solid nibs, but less accurate.
Crown (crowns) are used for excavating holes in hard brittle materials - stone, concrete and drilling wide holes in chipboard and fiberboard. Available with and without centering twist drill. The latter are cheaper, but only suitable for stone and require strong working skills.
A circular drill (central drill, ballerina) drills holes of large diameter in thin, strong, but brittle materials with a decorative front surface, such as tiles or polished decorative stone. The drilling diameter of the circular drill can be continuously changed. Rotary impact drilling with a circular drill is unacceptable.
Diamond drills are thin-walled tubes made of a special alloy with diamond coating. They can drill glass, polished decorative stone, glazed ceramic tiles. Roads require careful handling and precise adherence to drilling technology.

Drill sharpening

Different materials require different sharpening angles of the drill. Metal is most often drilled with drills with a sharpening angle of 116 degrees, concrete and stone - 90 degrees, wood - 60-90 degrees. The exact angles and sharpening methods for different types of drill bits for different materials can be found in material handling reference guides.

About Carbide

Hard alloys for drills are made on the basis of compounds of boron, tungsten or zirconium. The cheapest ones are based on boron, but such a drill will take concrete with great difficulty and will quickly wear out. Such drills are marked "by stone". It is impossible to drill decorative materials with them - the edges of the hole will chip off. Tungsten and zirconium compounds differ primarily in durability: zirconium compounds last longer. They are correspondingly more expensive.

What and how to drill

Steel, brass, bronze, solid alloy

Drilling of metal of normal viscosity is carried out at medium drill speeds, 400-1000 rpm, depending on the hole diameter: 400 revolutions - with a maximum drill diameter of 13 mm for a conventional drill; 1000 - with a diameter of 3 mm. For smaller diameters, the speed is again reduced to the same 400 rpm for 1 mm.

Note: when drilling steel and brass, lubrication is not needed, it will only prevent the correct chips from forming.

Sheet metal

For the same materials, but sheet, so that drilling does not lead to sheet deflection, two methods can be recommended:

When drilling from the bed, give more speed, up to 1500-2000, and quickly “pierce” the sheet, which should lie on a wooden pillow. To prevent the sheet from turning and injuring you, it must be fixed with nails driven into the pillow at its edges, or pressed to the table with a clamp; better - two.
When drilling on the fly, as soon as an increased resistance to the feed is felt (this means that the drill is about to come out), you need to drill the hole on the other side, flushing the “pimples” inside with a center punch.

But the radical way to get a wide hole in a thin sheet of metal with an ordinary drill is to first drill a hole with a diameter equal to the thickness of the sheet, then expand it in one or three steps to the diameter of the required hole minus twice the thickness of the metal, and drill it clean. Each subsequent hole should be wider than the previous one by twice the thickness of the metal. The maximum allowable diameter is 5-6 metal thicknesses. That is, in a 2 mm sheet, you can drill a hole with a diameter of 13 mm, and it will be round, and not like a triangle with very smooth corners.

Aluminum is a soft metal, very ductile and fusible: its melting point is only 660 degrees. Because of this, when drilling, it can melt on the cutting edge, blur the hole, swell its edges and bite the drill. Therefore, when drilling aluminum, it is necessary to give one and a half times less revolutions than for other metals, cool the drill with liquid engine oil, emulsion or water, and feed the tool a little, without leaning.

The drill for aluminum must be sharp, factory-ground or sharpened on a special machine. Drills resharpened by hand are not suitable for aluminum.

Stainless steel

Wood, MDF and plastic

Drilling of plastic windows, MDF, plastic tiles and polished wood is carried out either with a special drill bit for wood (with shaped sharpening and a centering threaded cone), or with solid drill bits. In the latter case, a centering hole of 3-5 mm is pre-drilled; it can be drilled with a conventional drill. Turnovers are the same as for commercial wood; feed - easy, without pressure.

Concrete and reinforced concrete

Drilling of concrete is carried out with special drills for concrete with a superhard solder or insert, in a percussion-rotary way at medium or 2/3 of the maximum speed of the drill. The best option is the SDS drill. If reinforced concrete is drilled, then the drill hitting the reinforcement most often leads to its damage: the hard tip is chipped off. Therefore, before drilling reinforced concrete, it is highly desirable to determine the location of the reinforcement with a reinforcement detector; This device works on the principle of a metal detector.

Drilling holes in the walls for socket boxes is carried out with a crown on stone (for brick walls) or concrete, with the same precautions in the case of reinforced concrete. If the hole is drilled with a crown without a centering drill, then it is tightly, without skew, applied to the wall, pressed, and the drill is turned on sharply, with quick pressure.

There is a special tool and technology for through wall drilling, but this is the subject of a special description.

Ceramics and stone

Drilling ceramic tiles is done as follows:

A hole with a diameter greater than the thickness of the centering drill web is punched manually with a diamond or carbide center punch; its diameter is 2.5-3 mm. When drilling a large diameter hole, the diameter of the centering drill should be equal to the diameter of the centering rod of the circular drill.
A centering hole is drilled with a concrete drill. When drilling holes for dowels up to 6 mm, you can immediately drill clean.
With a finishing drill for concrete, the hole is drilled completely.

Porcelain stoneware is drilled in the same way as ceramic tiles. Drill speed - maximum, except for drilling with a circular drill; feed is light, minimal. It is desirable to provide continuous cooling of the working area with water. It is impossible to cool the tile with oil - when heated, it can spoil the decorative surface.

Video: how to drill tiles

Solid stone and glass

If the piece to be processed can be laid on the table, then glass and stone can be drilled from the bed in the ancient Egyptian way: with a copper tube with quartz (not sea shell) sand:

A roller 1-1.5 cm high is made around the drilling site from plasticine or putty.
Fine quartz sand is poured into the formed hole and moistened to a liquid slurry.
A flat thin-walled copper tube is loaded into the drill chuck.
The drill is set to the MINIMUM speed.
They drill with a series of short light pecks at the weakest pressure. Sand eats into copper, and the points of its grains, which have the greatest strength, gnaw at the material.

Note: the exact diameter will not work, but you will get a dull spot around the hole.

Video: examples of glass drilling at home

Holes in pipes

square holes

Outcome

Somehow piercing a clumsy hole with a drill is a simple matter. But drilling an even, round and neat hole is a job for a real master, who is knowledgeable, intelligent and with skillful hands.

Also on topic

Scenario of the meeting of Komsomol veterans with students of the school

Competition and entertainment program "Miss Spring", dedicated to International Women's Day (March 8)

Encyclopedia of fairy tale characters: Puss in Boots Puss in Boots what you liked

Ebook Red and Black

The meaning of the film. "Fountain" (2006). Psychological analysis. The meaning of the film “The Fountain of Bakhchisaray”: analysis of the characters’ images