Once you have a plot and plan your future garden, think about its purpose and your own inclinations. Do you like to dig in the garden, work on the ground, or do you prefer walking around the neighborhood, barbecue, active outdoor games. After all, it is on this that the principle of planning the site depends, dividing it into special zones and their ratio in size. The garden should be a comfortable and pleasant place for rest and work of the whole family. And here you have to follow certain rules.
Garden layout
After the site for the garden is selected, it is necessary to correctly orient it to the cardinal points and zone it. This is important to do to create optimal conditions for the growth and fruiting of trees and shrubs. With proper arrangement of plants on the site, you can provide them with sunlight or shade, protect them from wind, drying out of the soil. In addition, the well-thought-out arrangement of plants relative to the entrance to the garden, outbuildings adjacent to its territory, and the source of water supply facilitate the work of the gardener.
The layout of the garden can be regular (geometric) or landscape. The regular layout is distinguished by symmetry and the arrangement of plants along geometric lines. All trees and shrubs should be placed at a certain distance from each other according to the scheme in the form of a square, rectangle, rhombus. Paths are laid between them. A staggered landing pattern is often used.
Square, rectangular and checkerboard planting patterns are suitable for sites correct form. Aisles in such a garden can be compacted - planted with other plants that do not require much light. If the site is narrow and long, then it is better to arrange trees and shrubs in a rectangular pattern. It is optimal for a small area garden. With dense planting, trees are arranged in rows every 8 m. A distance of 5-6 m is left between trees. Trees with a smaller crown (plum, cherry) can be planted between trees with a large crown. Berry bushes (gooseberries, currants) are located in the aisles. The distance from one bush to another is 1.25-1.5 m. Compaction of plantations with a rectangular arrangement of fruit trees is justified. big trees(apple trees, pears) grow slowly in the first years and occupy the space allotted for them gradually. Less overall and durable will have time to give more than one crop during this time. Aging in plums and cherries is noted by the 20-25th year, and in berry bushes- from 14-16 years of age. When apple and pear trees grow, plum and cherry already cease to bear fruit in full force and they are uprooted. The placement of fruit trees in a square pattern is most often used on flat areas. The distance between the trees with this approach is the same on all sides. The chess layout of fruit trees is most often used in summer cottages. Trees are located at the corners of a triangle on equal distance from each other (Fig. 1). This approach allows you to plant 14% more fruit trees than with normal fit. The chess planting pattern is suitable for a garden on terraces.
Rice. 1. Chess tree planting scheme: 1 - tall trees: 2 - medium and low trees
It is important to correctly place fruit trees and shrubs in the garden in height (Fig. 2).
Rice. 2. Types of trees by height: 1 - dwarf; 2 - medium height; 3 - tall
Distance between seedlings
If it is planned to grow apple trees in the garden on tall rootstocks, then a distance of 6-8 m is left between the rows, and 4-6 m between the trees in them. Apple trees on semi-dwarf rootstocks occupy less space. Their rows are made with a distance of 5-7 m, and 3-4 m are left between plants. Rows for apple trees on dwarf rootstocks are placed at a distance of 4-5 m from each other. They stand 1.5-2 m between trees. Rows with pears on vigorous rootstocks are made with an interval of 6-8 m. The distance between trees in a row is 4-5 m.
Cherries and plums are planted in rows with an interval of 4 m, 3 m are left between the trees. The same trees of small-sized varieties are placed every 2 m in rows with an interval of 4-5 m. Chokeberries, currants, gooseberries are planted at a distance of 1-1.5 m from each other, the rows are made 2-2.5 m wide.
Gooseberry bushes can grow up to 2.5 m in diameter. When planted in rows, bushes usually do not exceed 2 m in diameter. Gooseberries can be planted between seed fruit trees, leaving a distance of 1.5-2 m from them. As soon as the crowns of the trees grow so much that they close, the gooseberries are uprooted.
Gooseberries are planted in large numbers in sparse rows. The bushes are placed at a distance of 1.4-1.5 m from each other, and 2-2.5 m are left between the rows. After 5-6 years, the gooseberry bushes grow and the rows become continuous.
To quickly get big harvest sometimes 2 bushes are planted in one planting hole with a distance of 20 cm. During the first 3 years, gooseberries really give a bountiful harvest. In the future, the bushes grow strongly, oppress each other and quickly age. It is already difficult to plant them, as the roots will have to be severely damaged. Therefore, planting two bushes is impractical. A more rational combined landing pattern. Plants are often planted - every 0.75 m in a row, and between the rows they keep a distance of only 1 m. After 3-4 years, the bushes are thinned through one and 1.5 m remains in the rows between them. The bushes uprooted in autumn are planted in a new place. After 1-2 years, gooseberries are thinned out in a similar way again. This approach to cultivation allows you to get a decent harvest every year, even from young plants in a small area. Blackberries and raspberries take up less space. Their rows are made 2 m wide, and the bushes are placed at intervals of 0.6-0.7 m.
Horticulturally effective life expectancy and planting pattern for fruit and berry crops middle lane Russia is presented in table 1.
Table 1. Terms of operation and planting scheme for fruit and berry crops
In the garden with landscape style plants are placed randomly, adhering to the basic principles, in order to provide them with optimal conditions for growth and fruiting. In such a garden, everything looks natural, there are more ornamental plants.
IN A LANDSCAPE GARDEN, FRUIT TREES ARE MOST OFTEN PLANT IN ROWS along parallel arcuate lines. Shrubs and flower beds are placed in such a way as to emphasize the beauty of the garden.
Windbreak plants can be planted on the north and east sides. They will protect more heat-loving fruit trees from strong winds. There you can place outbuildings or a residential building. However, they should not be tall and obscure the garden. One of the options for placing a garden, garden, house and outbuildings is shown in Figure 3.
Rice. 3. Layout of the site (N - north, south - south, unit of measurement - m): 1 - house, 2 - playground, 3 - toilet, 4 - shower, 5 - lawn, 6 - water tank, 7 - strawberries , 8 - vegetable crops, 9 - cherries, 10 - cherries, 11 - pears, 12 - medium-sized apple trees, 13 - grapes, 14 - gooseberries, 15 - currants, 16 - raspberries, 17 - apricots, 18 - sea buckthorn, 19 - plums, 20 - nuts, 21 - undersized apple trees, 22 - lilac
When planning a garden, the characteristics of fruit and berry plants are taken into account - the need for light or shade, thermophilicity, drought tolerance, etc. C north side usually plant the tallest trees (apple, pear). In a southerly direction, shorter ones (plum, cherry), and then berry bushes (raspberries, currants, gooseberries) are placed. Next, a garden and berry undersized plants are placed ( garden strawberries). With this approach, all plants receive enough sunlight (Fig. 4). Walnut located away from all fruit trees and shrubs. The best place for him is a place near the house.
Rice. 4. Illumination of trees and shrubs in the garden: 1 - at correct location plants in height; 2 - with incorrect arrangement of plants in height
It is rational to place grapes along the fence on the south or southeast side of the site. Berry bushes can be isolated in a separate zone or planted between rows of fruit trees. On the north side, the most hardy species of fruit trees are placed. The most heat-loving trees (apricots, cherries) are planted in the center of the garden, in a place well lit and protected from the wind. You can plant them along the fence, from the side of the forest, near the wall of the house.
Trees should not create extensive shade in neighboring areas. Therefore, tall varieties are planted at a distance of 3.4-4 m from the border with an adjacent plot, medium-sized ones - at a distance of 2-2.5 m. Shorter plants are planted near the house so that they do not obscure the windows. The free space between the fence and the trees can be taken by currants, raspberries, gooseberries. They can also grow well in the shade. However, 1 m should be left from them to the fence. It is not recommended to plant any trees and shrubs at a distance of 20 cm from the border with an adjacent plot.
When planting shrubs, it must be taken into account that they grow strongly and can interfere with the growth of other plants, so young shoots must be cut down. For the same reasons, it is better to plant raspberries, sea buckthorn, and currants away from other plants, in more remote corners of the garden. Lemongrass and actinidia are recommended to be planted near the house. With this arrangement, they will be protected from the wind. Creeping apple trees are planted only in areas covered with snow in winter. Without a snow shelter, they will freeze, so you can not place them in a windy place.
Plum, on the contrary, is planted where there is no large accumulation of snow. In high snowdrifts, her bark begins to rot in the area of \u200b\u200bthe root collar, which can lead to the death of the entire tree. Usually, an elevated place is allocated for cherries. In order for plum and cherry to be well pollinated and bear fruit, it is recommended to plant them in 2-3 copies of different varieties. Currants, sea buckthorn, and chokeberry are planted in the sunniest place.
Blackcurrant prefers moist soil (loam) and sunny, wind-sheltered places, but can also grow in light shade. With strong shading, this shrub begins to bear less fruit. The soil with pronounced acidity for growing black currant is limed.
Red and white currants grow on light soils, do not tolerate shading. They are planted only in an open area with moderate humidity. These types of currants do not tolerate lowland areas and dry soil. Loose soil of any type with moderate moisture is suitable for gooseberries. It bears fruit well even on moderately acidic soils. At a high position ground water and stagnant water, the plant is affected by lichens and powdery mildew. The place for this berry bush is chosen sunny.
Strawberries need not only a plot with the longest solar lighting but also sheltered from the wind in winter. Strawberries grow well in one place for 3-4 years, after which they become smaller, often get sick and are affected by pests. Therefore, it is recommended to transplant it to another place.
The more in the garden various kinds and varieties of fruit trees and shrubs, the more likely it is to get a good harvest every year. If weather conditions are less favorable for one crop, they may be more suitable for another crop or variety. However, it is not recommended to plant apple and pear trees of summer and winter varieties nearby. It is better to select them according to close ripening groups, for example, summer and ripening in early autumn, winter and ripening in late autumn. Plants should also not be placed too close to each other. In this case, in a few years they will begin to be mutually oppressed and this will not be reflected in the best way on fruiting. In order to plan standard plot for a garden and vegetable garden, we suggest using the data in Table 2.
Table 2. Norms landing area for fruit and berry crops for a family of four
A total of 400 m2 is allocated for the garden on the plot. This is quite enough for a family of 3-4 people. 4 apple trees are planted in the garden, 3-4 plums and cherries, 2-3 pears, apricots and cherries, 1-2 trees are enough. Of the shrubs, black currants are most planted - 5-7 bushes. You can plant 2 bushes of red currant, gooseberry, sea buckthorn. There is a place for 100-150 strawberry bushes. If desired, you can allocate a place for grapes, chokeberry, shadberry, dog rose. In order to fresh fruits and berries were available for as long as possible, trees and shrubs should be planted from different groups according to ripening dates.
IN DAMP AREAS WITH HIGH GROUND WATER, it is recommended to plant fruit trees and shrubs on bulk mounds. They are created by digging up the soil, which is thrown to the middle of the selected place and mixed with manure, peat, humus.
As trees and shrubs grow, the ratio of free space and plantings, as well as light and shade on the site, will change. Low-growing crops may be shaded if this is not taken into account in advance. On relief terrain, rows of fruit plants pass from one slope to another almost parallel to each other. On a hill, they converge slightly, and at the foot of the hills they widen slightly (Fig. 5).
Rice. 5. Arrangement of trees in a relief area
After determining the style of the garden and drawing up a plan, the marking of the site begins. To do this, use a tape measure, cord and eker (a stake with a wooden cross to align the corners of the rows and beds). First, zones are determined for the placement of trees and shrubs along the boundaries of the site. In the designated places, pegs are driven into the ground and, if necessary, pull the cord. Then they outline the line of the longest row, measure the distances between trees or shrubs on it, and pegs are also driven in in their place. The placement of plants along the edges of the row is determined using an eker (Fig. 6). With proper marking, all rows of trees and shrubs in the garden are rectangular, parallel and perpendicular to each other.
Video: site planning
With the acquisition of a land plot, the owner has to deal with the zoning of the territory. Now there are many specialists in this field who, with the help of professional techniques, can create beauty. The layout of the garden can be done independently, if you familiarize yourself with the features of this work. After all, on the site you can plant not only trees, but also shrubs, vegetables. More information about the design of the territory is described in the article.
Training
The garden should be located in the open sun on a site with a high presence of groundwater. It should not be laid in a lowland, where cold air and water will flow during the spring flood.
After an external inspection of the territory, the following work should be planned:
- Cleaning the territory from old stumps, wild shrubs, stones, other debris.
- The area needs to be dug deep.
- Needs to be watered for weeds to emerge. After germination, you need to perform deep cultivation and level the site.
- In parallel, you need to give the soil to the laboratory to determine the physical condition and type of soil, chemical composition. This is required for further care: use of fertilizers, irrigation, other agrotechnical procedures.
- Based on the results of the analysis, it is necessary to enter under autumn processing necessary doses of fertilizers and other ameliorative components. Without these data, fertilizer is undesirable.
What is important to consider before planning?
Before planning a garden, you need to take into account some of the nuances:
- What area can be allocated for an orchard. Trees with spreading crowns need a distance of 4 square meters. m.
- Terrain relief. For orchard a flat area or a gentle slope is suitable, there is cold air in the pits, a lot of moisture, these territories are unfavorable for fruit trees.
- Analysis of soils of the territory. Fruit crops have a strong root system, fertile soils are needed to ensure good nutrition. For garden area rocky, clayey, sandy soil is not suitable. The proximity of groundwater has a negative effect on the growth of trees.
- The presence of light and heat. Fruit trees need the necessary amount of light and heat, as their growth slows down in the shade. Terrain with strong winds will not be entirely suitable, as it interferes with proper pollination, dries out the ground, damages crops and breaks branches. Partial protection against it is a high fence or green spaces.
Layout features
Garden planning begins with paper schemes. If there is a house on the territory, planning should be carried out from it. A diagram of the site, the contours of the object and other buildings, as well as places where there are trees are applied to the paper. This area is protected by trees planted around.
If the land is not built up, a site for building a house is applied to the scheme. The layout of the garden suggests the presence of a front garden. Housing should face the street, in front of it is located part of the land for the front garden. Its size is determined by the area of the territory.
On a small front garden, you need to plant flowers, berry bushes, on a large one - decorative and fruit trees, flowers. Large fruit plants- apple trees, pears - it is desirable to plant in the north-eastern part. Between them should be cherries and plums.
Plan
In order to have the correct layout of the garden and vegetable garden, you need to create sketches of the site. In the plan, you need to indicate the buildings, the approximate location of the remaining objects. It is necessary to mark the holes for planting bushes and trees. They should be planted at a distance so that they do not shade as they grow.
Closely spaced bushes and trees do not grow well, moreover, this leads to diseases of horticultural crops. Fruit trees have a powerful root system, it should develop freely. If there are wild shrubs, stumps that should be uprooted on the territory, all work must be done and the wood residues must be burned. The ash must be left in a dry place, it will be required to obtain fertile beds.
The layout of the garden on the site should be such that the trees do not obscure neighboring plots. To date, beds of the original form are fashionable, for example, a pizza garden. In this case, the rest are located in the center from the round beds in the center. Raspberries, blackberries, berry bushes that bear fruit and shade are planted near the boundaries of the site.
What crops to choose?
When planning an orchard, you need to decide on the types of plants. It is necessary to choose trees and shrubs that grow well and bear fruit in the area. For the middle lane, pears, apple trees, plums, cherry plums, and cherries are selected. Cherries and apricots grow better in warm regions.
From berry bushes, you can choose currants, gooseberries, blackberries, raspberries. Planning a garden on 10 acres is much easier than with a large area. At small plot shrubs are preferably located around the perimeter. On the vegetable beds it is necessary to plant crops that grow close to each other: cabbage, cucumbers, peas.
Popular types of layout
The garden planning project will create original plot. There are currently 4 designs available:
- Rectilinear. This option is not only beautiful, but also simple. This arrangement allows you to restore order on the site. This type of design allows you to get the effect of reducing space.
- Circular arrangement. To get it, you need skills in landscape design. This design will allow you to create an orchard and flower beds, and it is more difficult to use it for a vegetable garden.
- Diagonal. In this way, you can arrange a garden plot of 15 acres and above. With the help of a diagonal orientation, a visual volume is obtained. It allows you to arrange the location of different areas.
- Creative option. There are no specific rules here. Usually it contains elements of other types. It is used for areas with a special configuration.
Each layout option is original in its own way. Before implementing the project, it is necessary to draw it on paper. If land is purchased with some buildings and plantings that you do not want to remove, then they must be marked first.
Communications
The layout of a personal plot, garden, orchard is not complete without communications equipment. Systems facilitate the operation and maintenance of the territory, improve functionality. They will create additional conditions.
To organize a garden plot, drainage systems, sewerage, organization of passage are required. gas pipeline and water supply. A well, septic tank or well is also required. These engineering objects must be located at a sufficient distance from each other. There must be a system street lighting. Electrical wiring must be carried out at a depth of 70 cm. Laying should be done before planting plants and arranging garden paths.
Recreation area
If the territory has been divided into an orchard, it is necessary to determine a place to rest. Even in a small area, you can place a modest, but harmoniously inscribed gazebo. It should be beautiful and comfortable. In large areas, it will be possible to create a summer kitchen, a swimming pool, an observation deck and so on.
The list of ideas is limited only by the possibilities of the area and the desire of the owner. But in any case, the recreation area should be in a comfortable place, not interfere with other areas. It is preferable to remove it from economic blocks and communications.
Planting hole preparation
layout small garden And large area involves proper planting. And this must be done according to certain rules. The garden should be planted in the fall. It is necessary to dig a planting hole according to the scheme, prepare fertilizers for the soil.
The pit will be approximate dimensions, because final version is set on the size of the root system, which depends on the age of the seedling. The approximate size of the pit is 60x60 if the seedlings are 2-year-old, and for 3-year-olds it can be increased to 70x80 cm.
Soil preparation
Near each pit, mix the top layer of earth with humus and peat. In the spring, before planting, 1 cup is added to the mixture. wood ash and slaked lime and 200 g of nitrophoska. Everything should be thoroughly mixed. Seedlings must be purchased from trusted manufacturers.
Acquisition and preparation of seedlings
Landing must be done in the spring. During the growing season, seedlings grow stronger. Young trees get used to a new location during the warm period. You should not buy seedlings from unfamiliar sellers. It is advisable to do this in farms that are engaged in their cultivation. Then it is more likely that a zoned variety will be purchased. It is necessary to inspect the acquired seedling. You should not take it if it has dry roots, a crooked trunk, cracks in the bark.
Landing
There are rules for planting seedlings. 1-2 days before that, they must be soaked in horse wine or another growth stimulant. Then you need to prepare a container of clay talker with root, planriz or phytosporin. Other biofungicides used for tank mixes are also suitable.
2-3 weeks before planting, you need to fill up part of the soil mixture with a cone in a hole. During this time, the cone will settle and the seedling will be correctly placed in the hole. It must be dipped into a mash, inserted into a hole, straightened the root so that there are no creases. 2/3 of the hole is filled with soil mixture.
It is necessary to fill a bucket of water. After soaking, you need to fill in the rest of the soil mixture or soil. You should drive a stake and fix the seedling with a figure eight to the support. A loose seedling will break off small roots.
The subtleties of landing
During planting, you need to check the correct depth of the root collar. With deepening, the tree dries out after 5-10 years. With light sandy soils, it is advisable to deepen the root collar a little into the soil - by 10 cm. For seedlings that form roots or shoots, deepening will not interfere with the proper development of the plant. Such cultures quickly rebuild the root system.
In self-rooted seedlings, the root collar should be in the area of the planting hole or 2-3 cm higher. And in the vaccinated, the grafting site is 4-8 cm above the root collar. Beginning gardeners often confuse these places. It is necessary to pay attention to planting, because with errors the tree quickly dies.
If the root neck is correctly determined and the seedling is planted so that it is 4-5 cm above the soil, then the tree is planted correctly. It is necessary to compact the kidney near the landing. At a distance from the trunk with a radius of 30-50 cm, you need to make a roller 5-7 cm high and pour 2-3 buckets of water.
The root neck should be 2-3 cm higher than the soil. If necessary, you can add soil after watering and mulch with a layer of fine mulch. If live seedlings are purchased and the planting is carried out correctly, then after 2-3 weeks the first leaves will appear.
Definition of the root collar
- In a young seedling with a damp cloth, you need to wipe the lower region of the trunk and root. The root neck can be established by the transition from greenish to light brown.
- In adult seedlings (3-4 years old), you need to wipe the lower area of \u200b\u200bthe trunk with a wet cloth and, after drying, scrape off the bark with a knife. If in the expansion area the shade of the subcortical layer is green, then this is the stem, and if it is yellowish, then the root part. The place of color transition is considered to be the root collar.
- In some seedlings, the place of departure from the trunk of the upper lateral roots is clearly visible. This will be the root collar.
What is forbidden to do when landing?
- Apply semi-rotted manure, only humus with soil.
- Water frequently with a small amount of water. This dries out the soil.
- Use cold water for irrigation.
- Fertilize the plants the first year.
- After planting, mulch the near-stem area.
What do you need to do when landing?
- Seedlings should be whitewashed with a solution of chalk with clay, biological products from diseases and pests.
- Insulate the target with burlap, paper, lutrasil.
- The netting will protect the trunk from rodents.
- After a snowfall, trample down the snow near the trunk.
Thus, the layout of the garden involves competent zoning of the territory. It should have trees, shrubs, an area for recreation. It is also necessary to properly plant plants in compliance with all norms. Then it will turn out beautiful garden created according to the rules of landscape design.
The harvest has long been harvested, and it is snowing outside the window. It would seem that it's time to take a break from summer troubles, but the thoughts of many gardeners are already devoted to the future. summer season: what and where to plant, what fertilizers and seeds to buy, how much and what kind of film is needed for greenhouses and greenhouses ... And it seems that there is nothing complicated here - just place potatoes, cabbage, carrots, beets, onions and garlic on your hundred square meters , green crops, because everything else: trees, shrubs, raspberries and strawberries have long had their legal seats.
But in practice, everything turns out to be more complicated - you have to compare a lot of different factors in order to accept, sometimes, only one correct solution. Moreover, for this it is not enough to know which crops are light-loving and which are shade-tolerant - you also need to take into account the fertility of a particular site, which crops grew here in the past, and preferably, and not only in the past, year, and which crops will grow nearby peacefully and without conflicts.
Therefore, really enthusiastic gardeners and gardeners have to plan and account for their garden no less painstakingly than accountants do their reporting. For example, my grandfather had a huge ledger with detailed garden plans for several decades, starting in the 50s. In fact, for so many years, information is not needed - in most cases, it is enough to have data for 3-4 years, but here the grandfather’s truly accounting nature has already affected. Everything is simpler for me, since a computer is at hand, and it’s enough for me to simply fix the year on the plan once drawn in the corresponding program and note where and what crops I grew. But most probably still have to draw such a plan by hand - in this case, it is more reasonable to draw a plan once indicating trees, shrubs, greenhouses, hotbeds and permanent ridges, then take a dozen photocopies, and mark the crops planted in each one year or another - it will be much faster.
How to agree on all the pros and cons
Even if you have all the necessary information, finding the right solution can be difficult. You start posting, and it seems that almost everything was planned out, but on last step it turns out that, for example, cabbage is left with a bed on which this very cabbage grew the year before last and at the same time was sick with clubroot. So, you can’t land her here, and everything starts all over again. Again, we have to redo the plan, look for a new solution and draw it again.
If you are familiar similar situation and you give yourself a headache every year by planning and moving crops around the garden again, then try an interesting solution that I read about recently (I don’t need it, since I do everything on a computer, but most gardeners will probably come in very handy ). True, to use this approach, you must have rectangular beds that are close in size, and each vegetable must be planted on its own bed (that is, not in the company of others).
In this case, you can plan like this: take last year's site plan (and better plans for 3-4 years) and Blank sheet paper. Draw this sheet into identical rectangles and write on them: potatoes, cabbage, carrots, onions, garlic, etc., listing everything that you plan to plant. Moreover, if you always occupy two ridges with garlic, then, accordingly, there should be two rectangles with the name "garlic", etc. Cut the paper into separate rectangles and start on your plan to assemble a puzzle called "an entertaining garden", placing the ridges-rectangles in the right way on the chosen places of your plan. It’s not scary to make a mistake here, because. it's easy to fix everything by moving the "wrong" rectangle to a new location. Try it, and this method will be much easier than playing all the situations in your head and repeatedly and painstakingly redrawing your plan.
What factors should be considered when planning a garden?
First- everyone loves vegetables sunny place. Only green crops, which include onion on a feather, and perennial bows like chives and slime, partially put up with partial shade. This means that in a small shade of a house, a fence, trees and shrubs, you can sow and plant onions and some herbs. Although you won’t get a big harvest in this case, you still can’t grow anything else in these places.
Second- compatibility of vegetables: who is good with whom or, conversely, bad. Cabbage does not live with tomatoes and beans. Cucumber - with potatoes. Tomatoes - with fennel. Potatoes - with tomatoes and pumpkin. Peas and beans are very unpleasant onions and garlic, radish - hyssop. Only now carrots get along with everyone, although from the point of view of protection against carrot flies, it is preferable to sow it in company with onions. It was about bad neighbors.
What about good ones? Here are other examples. All vegetables of the celery family (carrots, parsnips, parsley, celery) go well with the onion family: onions, garlic, leeks, shallots. White and black radish work well with other vegetables. Radish grows very well between rows of bush beans - it becomes very large, tasty and not wormy. Potatoes do not interfere with beans, corn, cabbage, horseradish and onions. But each individually, because in this group there are several irreconcilable couples.
Onions, celery, potatoes, dill and lettuce are compatible with cabbage. Tomatoes can be planted next to green and cabbage crops, asparagus and beans. Peas can coexist with carrots, cucumbers, potatoes, radishes, corn. Etc.
Third rule no less important - it must be borne in mind that the phytoncides secreted by some plants repel pests of other crops or prevent some diseases from developing. For example, onion phytoncides repel carrot flies, and carrot phytoncides repel onion flies. Dill protects cucumbers from diseases, and onions and garlic protect tomatoes. If you plant strong-smelling plants near cabbages, such as celery, thyme, or sage, they will drown out the smell of cabbage and make it less attractive to pests. And it’s a good idea to plant basil near beans to protect against bean weevil, garlic near roses to protect against aphids, parsley near asparagus.
When planning must also take into account the predecessors, that is, whether a suitable vegetable grew last season in the place where you will plant another in the spring. And here again there are numerous schemes! And the most important thing to learn is that you cannot plant the same culture in the same place. And besides, you can not place cabbage after any cabbage and beets. Beets - after beets, cabbage and tomatoes. Tomatoes - after all nightshades and peas.
Fifth that has to be taken into account, long term crop rotation, a 3-4 year perspective. Here it is even more difficult. Agronomy teaches you to rotate vegetables according to their nutritional needs, in particular, in organic matter. Conventionally, in the first year (i.e., on fresh organic matter), they grow cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, cabbage of medium and late ripening, leek, etc., that is, those crops for which organic matter needs to be applied a lot. In the second year they are replaced by onions, peppers, tomatoes, potatoes. The third is the turn of root crops (carrots, beets, radishes, etc.), which have to add a fair portion of mineral fertilizers.
Features of garden planning
With a garden, it gets even more difficult, because we plant vegetables every year, and if one year your planning was unsuccessful, then perhaps the next year everything will turn out to be much better.
We place trees and shrubs in permanent places for a long time, and once planted apple trees will supply you with fruits for the rest of your life. Therefore, when drawing up a garden plan, it is necessary to allocate separate permanent places for each species of trees, for vegetables, for flowers, and everything must be correctly calculated in advance where and what will grow in 10-20 years. And there are a lot of rules too.
Rule One consists in the presence of a permanent place for each group of crops (fruit trees, berry bushes, vegetable and ornamental crops). A common mistake is the combined arrangement of crops, when vegetables, strawberries, berry bushes are placed among young apple and pear trees. At first everything turns out well: the trees do not take up much space, there is enough light and nutrition for other plants. But over time, the trees grow, and then the intermediate crops fall into the shade, their productivity becomes low. Therefore, the first rule of site planning is to allocate a separate permanent place for each crop. Of course, you can temporarily grow berry bushes, strawberries and vegetables among the vigorous tree species, but then, when a strong blackout sets in, they will have to be removed and moved somewhere else, which you need to think about in advance.
Second rule is to provide for the possibility of renewing strawberries, plantations of berry bushes, cherry and plum trees. Let's say strawberries bear fruit well in one place for 2-3 years. In the fourth or, in extreme cases, the fifth year of fruiting, it must be completely eliminated. Therefore, one bed is vacated every year in order to grow vegetables here next year, and a bed of vegetables is planted with strawberries. Therefore, it is more convenient to attribute strawberries not to a garden, but to a vegetable garden and change strawberry ridges with vegetable ones. Currant, gooseberry and raspberry bushes can theoretically bear fruit in one place for a very long time, and it all depends on proper care. It is more profitable (from the point of view of saving your own time) to take care of these crops well and regularly cut and spray, then in one place, subject to rejuvenating pruning, they can bear fruit for 10, 15 years or more. And everything will be fine. And if you take care of them poorly, then they will not last long, the bushes will weaken from diseases, pests, malnutrition and thickening, and you will have to look for them somewhere else and start growing and shaping again.
The third planning rule- Respect for neighbor's rights. Your trees should not greatly obscure the neighboring area. The distance from the tree trunk to the boundary should be at least half the generally accepted row spacing: for vigorous trees 3.5-4 m, for medium trees - 2.0-2.5 m. Currants, gooseberries, raspberries can be planted in the strip between the trees and the boundary . And in no case should you plant tall trees and shrubs 20 cm from the border, which, alas, is not uncommon.
The fourth planning rule- decrease in plant height as you approach the house. In order for the housing to be dry and bright, it is necessary to place the lowest plants near the house - flowers, lawn grasses, part of strawberries, vegetables, shrubs, and tall trees should be taken away, deep into the site.
Fifth Rule- taking into account the characteristics of certain plants. From berry bushes in drier, but well-lit places, it is better to plant red currants, gooseberries, and black currants in lower, more humid (but not swampy) places. Raspberries and sea buckthorn are planted separately in specially designated areas of the site, since the first gives a lot of root offspring, and the second develops long roots that interfere with the growth and development of other plants; Strawberries are planted in places where snow is well retained in winter. Growing strawberries between fruit trees is undesirable.
Chokeberry and sea buckthorn look good when planted in groups closer to home. Lemongrass and actinidia are planted near the wall of the house so that there is protection from the wind and it is possible to create reliable vertical supports. Barberry and lilac are planted away from all other crops (somewhere apart), because. their root secretions do not give life to other plants.
Svetlana Shlyakhtina, Yekaterinburg
By purchasing land plot and when drawing up a plan for the future home, you definitely need to think about the placement of trees and shrubs, which are always planted first. This is due not only to the dimensions of the plants, but also to a relatively long period of growth until full flowering or fruiting. Of course, plant all ornamental and fruit trees on suburban area impossible due to the limited territory, so you have to choose.
And when deciding which trees to plant on the site, you need to focus on two principles:
- growing conditions: demanding or unpretentious species;
- main purpose or place in garden landscape(garden, hedge, single landing).
If we talk about fruit trees, then the simplest care is required for apple trees (especially if you purchase a seedling of local selection that is resistant to common diseases and pests). Certainly, unpretentious varieties are not high palatability, but it won't cause any trouble. But if you want to surprise your neighbors with something exotic, then you should think about landing yellow plum, actinidia, walnut or peach.
The same principle applies to ornamental trees and shrubs. For example, for a hedge, you can use wild grapes, honeysuckle or drooping lilac, with minimum requirements to soil and climatic conditions, or you can decorate the site with juniper, barberry or hawthorn, for which you need a little more attention.
If you decide to plant a tree in the country, be sure to check the depth of groundwater. Very many trees, both fruit and ornamental, die as soon as their roots reach the water. These trees include pear, which has a deeply penetrating root system. At first, the young seedling grows actively and pleases the owner, it may even be possible to try the first fruits, but then the tree begins to wither and dry out. Inexperienced gardeners complain about disease or poor quality planting material and buy and plant pear seedlings again.
In order for tree plantings to really become durable, it is necessary to take into account the requirements of each species for growing conditions.
Overview of fruit trees and their features
Many, having a summer cottage, want to plant fruit trees in the garden. For good fruiting they require a high level of illumination, top dressing, watering, pruning and preventive treatments for diseases and pests.
Planting several varieties with the same ripening period favorably affects the yield. To save space on the site, it is better to choose varieties with a compact crown shape on dwarf rootstocks. Below is a brief description of the main fruit crops according to the most important parameters.
| culture | Average life expectancy, years | Average tree height, m | Required feeding area, m | Preferred Soils | Permissible depth of groundwater, m |
| Apple tree | from 20 to 50 | 3 to 7 | 3x2 or 6x4 | subacid | 1 to 3 |
| Pear | 25 | 5 | 5x4 | any | 2 |
| Cherry | 25 | 2 to 5 | 4x3 | neutral | 2 |
| Cherries | 60 | 3 to 8 | 4x4 or 8x4 | neutral | 1,5 |
| Plum | 20 | 5 | 4x3 | neutral | 1,5 |
| cherry plum | 20 | 2,5 | 3x3 | neutral | 1 |
| Apricot | 40-60 | 5 to 10 | 5x6 | slightly alkaline | 2-2,5 |
| viburnum | 40 | 2,5 | 2x2 | subacid | 1 |
| Irga | 50 | 2,5 | 3x2 | neutral | 1,5 |
| Honeysuckle | 20 | 1,5 | 2x1 | any | 1,5 |
| Sea buckthorn | 15 | 3 to 5 | 2x2 | neutral | 1 |
| Rowan | 25 | 7 | 5x3 | subacid | 2 |
| Hazel | 60 | 5 | 4x4 | slightly alkaline | 3 |
When choosing a fruit tree for a summer cottage, not only taste preferences, but also the climatic zone play an important role. For example, chokeberry is recommended for the northern regions, as is honeysuckle with sea buckthorn, brought to central Russia from Siberia.
Heat-loving cherry plums, plums, sweet cherries and cherries are excellent in southern regions. However, selection does not stand still, and many cultures adapt perfectly to atypical regions thanks to a stable rootstock. An excellent example of this is the Manchurian apricot and the Siberian apricot, which are suitable for cultivation in Siberia and the Far East. And although such an apricot has a specific non-winning taste, it is quite successful in processing.
Manchurian apricot - mature tree
For the rational use of the site, you can use a graft that allows you to have several interesting varieties on one adult tree.
Overview of ornamental trees and shrubs
Ornamental trees have not only an aesthetic function, but are often planted for shade at the gazebo, to protect from dust from the road, to create a living border along the fence. Features of care depend on the type of plant and growing area.
There are trees that it is undesirable to plant on a private plot due to aggressive growth or because of folk signs. Consider the most popular in private landscape design ornamental trees and shrubs in terms of care features and possible uses.
Norway maple Globozum
| culture | Short description | Usage | Note |
| Linden small-leaved | A tree up to 30 m high with a neat oval crown, high frost resistance, does not tolerate drought, the crown lends itself well to formation | A shady tree with a pleasant fragrance during flowering, is a honey plant, can be used for hedges or planting along a fence, well retains dust from the road | Linden near the house, according to old legends, protects against all diseases and ailments. young tree does not bloom, the first flowering is observed only at the age of 20-30, linden blossom is used in traditional medicine |
| Norway maple | A tree up to 6 m high with a compact spherical crown, does not need frequent pruning, grows on any soil | Good for providing shade near a house or over an artificial pond, often planted along a fence or road | Used in folk medicine and cooking |
| Common bird cherry | A tree with a height of 4 to 10 m, known for its snow-white racemose inflorescences with a bright aroma, undemanding to growing conditions | Due to the spreading wide crown, it is often planted singly on the edge of the site or in the alleys in a large garden. | You can not plant close to the house, as its roots destroy the foundation; produces edible fruits with medicinal properties |
| Poplar white (silver) | A fast-growing tree up to 30 m high with a spreading crown, has a light bark and silvery leaves, light-loving, salt-tolerant, tolerates drought and waterlogging, frost-resistant | Used in single or group plantings. For urban landscaping, pyramidal poplar is more often used, which does not form fluff, but has a greater height. | It is undesirable to plant close to the house due to the aggressive root system, it cleans the air well from dust and harmful substances |
| Catalpa | Heat-loving tree 10-15 m high with a high spherical crown and an elegant even trunk, inflorescences are large, white, long pods are formed after flowering, giving additional decorativeness, does not tolerate pruning | Single plantings near the gazebo or near the house, during the flowering period it exudes a very pleasant aroma, grows relatively slowly, in the Moscow region it can freeze slightly | People call it "macaroni tree" |
| Lilac | Abundantly flowering, unpretentious shrub with a height of 3 to 6 m, the color of fragrant inflorescences is white or lilac in different shades, requires moderate pruning | Some varieties do not tolerate urban gas pollution, so it is undesirable to plant them near the road. Lilac is ideal for hedges | Considered by the people as a protector family well-being and source of inspiration for creative people |
| Barberry | Prickly shrub from 1 to 4 m high, with a variety of leaf colors (burgundy, yellow, green, purple), unpretentious care | Used to create an impenetrable wall of dense prickly branches. | Used in folk medicine, recommended for planting at home |
| Willow | Tree with drooping shoots, fast growing, easy to prune, tolerates significant waterlogging. | Planting near water bodies or on waterlogged soils, hedges | A symbol of sadness and sadness, in the old days it was considered a bad omen to plant a willow under the window |
The list can be continued for a long time, especially if you cover all varieties and varieties. Breeders successfully cope with the task of "satisfying the needs of every gardener."
Trees unwanted in the garden plot according to ancient legends
Before planting a tree in front of the house, we can refer to the experience of our ancestors. At first glance, all signs are based on superstition, but they often have a logical grain.
It is not recommended to plant an oak tree in the summer cottage, which has strong energy and influences the head of the family. Birch as a protective shield should grow only behind the fence. Walnut should not be planted near the house, as its roots can destroy the foundation over time. Willow, willow and aspen, messengers of sorrow and death, are undesirable on the site.
If there are brides in the family, then it is also better to wait with the planting of the thuja. Poplar is recommended to be planted outside the site, away from home.
Overview of coniferous ornamental trees
Evergreen and rather unpretentious conifers serve as an indispensable element of a garden of any design.
For small areas of summer cottages, Arizona fir with gray-blue needles (up to 2 m high) and balsam fir (dwarf variety) are suitable. For those who want to grow a big tree, Korean fir (up to 15 m) is suitable.
Korean fir Silverlock
Dwarf varieties, reaching a height of up to 3 m, have Atlas cedar and Himalayan cedar. From krupnomer the Siberian cedar (cedar pine) enjoys deserved popularity. It grows slowly, but reaches a very impressive size.
Siberian cedar (cedar pine)
Larch and spruce often decorate country houses with a large area. personal plot. There are varieties of standard larch with a height of no more than 2.5 m with a spherical or weeping crown. Varieties of weeping larch look very impressive: European dwarf variety Repens up to 1.5 m high with branches almost creeping along the ground and Japanese variety Pendula up to 7 m high with delicate green-blue needles.
Japanese Larch Pendula
Dwarf forms of spruce can reach a height of 2 - 2.5 m, which, with slow growth, become acceptable in areas of any size. Varieties dwarf spruce with a variety of colors of needles and differing in the shape of the crown, there are a lot. The most beautiful and original look blue firs effectively standing out from the rest of the vegetation.
Spruce blue Hupsi
From coniferous shrubs with different shape crowns, yew and juniper can be noted. In the landscape design of private plots, dwarf juniper species with different needle colors (from dark green to silver-blue) up to 8 m high are used.
Terms of planting trees and buying seedlings
It is difficult to unequivocally answer the question of when it is better to plant trees. It depends on the weather conditions and the particular culture. The optimal time for planting fruit trees from the pome group is late autumn, and for heat-loving stone fruit crops, it is better to plant in early spring. The preferred age of seedlings is 2 years, but for vigorous crops (pear, cherry) it is better to use annual seedlings. The negative side of annual seedlings is an unformed crown, but they get sick less during transplantation and take root faster.
Most ornamental crops are planted in the spring. Moreover, the strict framework “before bud break” applies only to seedlings with an open root system. Planting material with a closed root system (in pots or bags) is suitable for planting throughout the spring and even summer, but it is more expensive.
When purchasing seedlings at specialized exhibitions and fairs, you need to pay attention to the following points:
- in what form they are sold: seedlings with open and dried roots have little chance of taking root on the site; good material is packed in bags with a small clod of moist earth;
- the state of the root system: the roots should be even (without thickening), elastic and without signs of peeling;
- crown condition: buds should be swollen, but not blooming;
- bole height: for fruit 2-year-old seedlings about 50 cm;
It is recommended to buy planting material in nurseries that are in each region. Only there you can be sure of the quality of seedlings and choose plants adapted to a particular area. Varieties of fruit trees for the Moscow region and the entire central strip of Russia are grown in the Michurinsky fruit nursery.
How to plant a garden? This question is asked by everyone who has just become the owner small area earth.
This question is also asked by the one whose mice (like mine) gnawed trees in winter. Exist different systems gardening: here are the advantages and disadvantages of each and will be discussed.
Ancestral experience
Our ancestors always had grass in their gardens. It was mowed down for hay, geese and cattle grazed on it. Fruit trees grew tall, but did not give birth every year and did not give large harvests.What gives such use of land under gardens?
Maybe they got some additional hay, and a lot of cakes were left by living creatures, but the soil after the herd grazing was so trampled down, so compacted that even good rains could not give the garden trees enough moisture.
The garden is not a place for grazing livestock and poultry. Photo from ogorodnik.com
The earth did not receive the right amount oxygen, carbon dioxide did not linger in it. The soil was depleted, because the cut and eaten grass did not return to it. The conditions under which soil animals (earthworms, wood lice, bacteria, and others) are able to restore fertility disappeared. Not the soil in the garden turned out, but the road. And how many things can grow on the road? That's right, nothing.
Tillage in the garden
The twentieth century brought new technologies. It is too hard and long to dig all the soil under garden trees with a shovel or pitchfork and between rows. But a plow appeared, and gardeners realized that the land in the gardens could be plowed and fertilized every year.
So they left the bare earth in the open air, without protecting it in any way. That is, there was steam in the garden. Yes, it was so easy to add humus, manure, compost. But the disadvantages of using this technology turned out to be more:
- first and foremost - the soil every year became less and less. Not protected by anything, it was simply washed away by rains, especially if the garden was located on a slope (tillage in such gardens gives rise to ravines). Even on the plain, the redistribution of the soil still took place, because there are very few absolutely flat fields in the world, and they, as a rule, are not given over to gardens;
- the second minus is that the roots of the trees are located so that they use the fertile soil layer very little, because they lie deeper;
- the third - the roots of the trees were injured during plowing between the rows (near the apple tree, they extend 15 m from the trunk). root system is difficult to recover, which means that the yield of the garden is falling.
Given the significant disadvantages, it is clear that this technology planting a garden will not work.
Parosideral technology
Seeing the problems described above, horticultural scientists recommended reducing the plowing depth to 10 cm, and the roots of the trees immediately occupied the available space. Then they decided that the plow should not be used, they switched to milling.
This helped the soil partially recover itself. At the same time, siderats began to be sown in the aisles, in order to plow them later. This method of planting and gardening was called parosideral.
But we already know that green manure does not have to be plowed. This work can be successfully performed by earthworms and other soil animals.
Sod-humus system
After the war in the USA, Canada, Australia, Japan, a new system of planting and growing gardens appeared. In our country, it has also been tested, and people are convinced of its effectiveness. It turns out that grasses just need to be allowed to grow under the trees and in the aisles. Cover garden areas with bluegrass and fescue, prevent them from forming impenetrable thickets, mowing, chopping and leaving where they grew. Mow 6-7 times per season. If there is a lot of rain, then more often (this is already from personal experience). But mineral fertilizers still apply. Do not use manure at all, because chopped grass plays the role of compost (and mulch).
What is the effectiveness of the sod-humus system
Such a garden is easy to maintain, cheap. And its productivity is great. Tree roots grow freely in the same 10-15 cm soil layer, which was previously inaccessible due to plowing. So it turned out expanse for soil animals. In such a garden, all the earth remains in place, the rains cannot wash it away. Yield increase (compared to other planting systems) up to 20%! There are fewer trees with scab. Carrion is unbreakable and can be used for recycling.
The winter hardiness of apple trees does not decrease, their own biological rhythm of growth and development of trees does not change. Almost natural farming.
An important condition for laying a garden
But there is one caveat. It turns out that planting on plowed land is considered correct: let the garden live in the steam system for the first two years of its life. At this time, the soil must be actively cultivated and fertilized. Then - sow honey plants, which at the same time will be green manure. It is recommended to pull up the aisles only in gardens that have already begun to produce crops.
Sometimes it is advised not to sow all the aisles with herbs, leaving some fallow.
How to plant a garden in the country
This planting system is also recommended for private gardens in tiny areas. Just make it a little easier:- do not do any preparation and tillage in the garden at all;
- grow a lawn under the trees. Mow it on time, leaving mowed chopped greens where they grew. But the height of the grass should be left a little more than on a decorative lawn.
In a properly planted orchard, the turf not only plays the role of a protector, it helps the soil to work in a natural rhythm and according to natural technologies, save water, and not suffer from drought. The trees in such a garden do not suffer from the wrong actions of a person, because he does not interfere, but helps them: somewhere with a pruner, somewhere with a garter, somewhere by adding humus (it must be compensated for by the soil, because the trees give the harvest). A properly planted garden should grow trees of modern varieties (although it is not forbidden to grow old favorites). If you got a plot with ready-made turf (someone grown a lawn or natural forbs), then mow the grass, leave the mulch on the site. In place of future near-stem circles, remove the sod, dig holes.
Plant the seedlings correctly, cover the trunk circles with sod, water well. And let nature itself protect your garden, and it will require minimal labor costs from you. Now it’s clear how to plant a garden correctly?
Personal experience of planting and growing a garden
At the time of laying the garden, our site was plowed. I was even glad that it was easy to plant trees, because the soil was prepared. And then I used a chopper to destroy the quinoa all summer. And it was very difficult to deal with her in order to maintain steam. Then came the seeds of all kinds of weeds. Soon it became impossible to carry out such a huge amount of work, and the garden was abandoned. The grass in it grew above the waist, but the lawn did not form. Only when we bought a lawn mower, we managed to cope with annual weeds in two seasons.
Then we grew seedlings of lawn grasses and transferred them to the garden, under the trees. Once free, they quickly mastered the entire space. We don’t walk aimlessly in the garden, we don’t trample the earth in vain, we treat it with respect. Only for necessary work we have certain paths. A properly planted garden gives us not a huge amount of hard work, but joy and rich harvests.
The basis of a healthy productive garden is soil fertility. And it depends on our actions, our choice (whether we help the soil or hinder it) which garden we can grow.