The garden and vegetable garden need timely watering, especially during the hot summer months. The drip irrigation system is a real salvation for summer residents who do not want to spend the lion's share of the weekend dragging a watering hose around their site. Drip irrigation is the most rational way to supply plants with moisture, it does not allow the root system to dry out and lack nutrients, and it also prevents the formation of a hard crust on the soil surface or erosion of the fertile layer.
Drip irrigation system device
The principle of operation of drip irrigation is to drip water directly to the root system of plants. Depending on the equipment used, moisture can be supplied both to the soil surface - using a drip tape or hose, and to the depth of the fertile layer - using droppers.
According to the type of water supply, the system can be gravity or forced. In the first case, water comes under the influence of gravity from a pre-filled tank of the required capacity, in the second - from a water supply system or from a pump connected to a well. Drip irrigation systems are designed for a pressure of no more than 2 atm., Therefore, a pressure regulator - a reducer - must be installed in the forced system. To create the necessary pressure in the gravity system, the tank is raised to a height of at least 1.5-2 meters.
Water from a tank or plumbing system is supplied to the irrigation site through main pipes with branches. As branches, standard fittings for drip irrigation are usually used, they are described below. The main pipes are laid along the fence, the walls of the greenhouse or just in the furrow, fixed with holders.
Drip lines are connected to the branches, passing along the rows of plants for the entire length of the beds. As drip lines, you can use a flexible drip tape with holes or a regular plastic pipe, to which droppers are connected through splitters. The ends of the drip lines are closed with plugs or flushing taps.
To avoid clogging of the system, a fine filter is installed at the outlet of the tank or at the place where it is connected to the water supply, as well as a valve valve or gearbox, with which the water supply is regulated.
Drip irrigation system design
For high-quality irrigation, droppers should be located at a distance of 30 cm from each other, while moistening the fertile layer occurs in 1-2 hours. Further watering is undesirable, as it leads to waterlogging and rotting of the root system, as well as to excessive water consumption. During this time, about 15-30 liters of water per square meter are consumed.
To achieve such an irrigation regime, it is necessary to correctly calculate the total length of the system or its individual sectors, as well as the capacity of the storage tank in the gravity system. In a forced system, manual or automatic irrigation control is indispensable. Manual control is suitable for gardeners living in the country: just open the tap and while you are resting or harvesting, the system will moisten the soil to the desired depth. If you are rarely in the country, you should purchase a controller that can be programmed for any period.
Tank Volume Calculation Example
The greenhouse has dimensions of 10x3.5 meters. The area of the greenhouse is: 10 3.2 \u003d 32 m 2. We multiply the resulting value by 30 liters required for irrigation: 32 30 = 960 liters. Thus, a tank with a volume of 1 cubic meter is required for a greenhouse.
The tank must be installed at such a height that stable pressure is ensured in the system. When the tank is raised to a height of 2 meters, the pressure in the system will be 0.2 atm., Which is enough to irrigate about 50 m 2. If the plot area is larger, with the gravitational method of water supply, it is advisable to divide the irrigation system into sections and supply water to them alternately, or install a separate tank for each section. A pump that increases pressure will also help solve the problem - in this case, it must be maintained on the order of 2 atmospheres.
To ensure a stable pressure in the system, factors such as the diameter of the main pipes and drip lines are also important. A pipe with a diameter of 16 mm passes 600 liters of water per hour, it is quite enough to irrigate 30 m2 of land. If the area of the site is larger, it is better to choose a pipe of a larger diameter: a 25 mm pipe will allow you to skip 1800 liters per hour and water a plot of about 100 square meters, a 32 mm pipe has a throughput of about 3 cubic meters, which is enough for a plot of 5 acres, and a 40 mm pipe - 4.2 cubic meters, or 7 acres.
The length of each drip line should not exceed 100 meters at any capacity of the main pipes. Typically, drip lines are connected in parallel at a distance equal to the distance between rows of plantings. In the case of watering fruit trees or bushes, drip lines are placed around them at a distance of 0.5-1 meter from the trunk.
Equipment and fittings
Before starting the installation of a drip irrigation system, it is necessary to draw a pipe layout plan and calculate the required amount of materials, connecting elements and equipment.
To install a water supply system, you need:
- A plastic or metal tank of the required volume or a pump that supplies water from a well;
- Valve valve;
- Controller - in case of installation of an automated system;
- ball valve;
- Pressure reducer;
- Fine filter;
Adapter for connection to the irrigation system.
The irrigation system includes the following elements:
- Plastic pipes with a cross section from 16 to 40 mm for main pipes;
- Drip tape or drip tubes complete with splitters and droppers;
- Fittings: faucets, tees, minifaucets, start connectors, adapters for connecting drip tape, plugs.
Mounting technology
- Install the tank at a height of 1.5-2 meters or connect to the water supply system. An adapter is cut into the tank, onto which a valve tap is screwed with the help of a FUM tape - it is necessary to regulate the water supply. If the water in the tank comes from the water supply network, it can be equipped with a float-type shut-off valve, as in a drain tank.
- After the tap, a programmable controller is installed that regulates the water supply depending on the given program. You can set it to turn on daily or water every few days, and set the watering time. After the controller, a ball valve is installed to shut off the water supply.
- To regulate the pressure, a reduction gear or a pump is installed in the supply system that increases the pressure. Working pressure - 1-2 atmospheres, with its increase, leaks may form at the junctions of tubes and droppers, with a decrease, water will flow unevenly. To purify water, the system is equipped with a fine filter - this will avoid blockages.
- Plastic main pipes, cut into segments corresponding to the distance between the drip tubes, are connected to the supply system through splitters and adapters. Pipes are connected using tees. The last main pipe at the remote end is equipped with a flush valve - it will come in handy in case of clogging of the system.
- Drip tapes or tubes are connected to the tees through adapters. The drip tape is a flexible hose with perforation, drip irrigation is carried out through the holes. The tape is easily cut with a knife, its ends are bent and special clips are put on them, which play the role of a plug.
- A drip tube is a plastic pipe, usually its diameter does not exceed 16 mm. Holes for a splitter with a diameter of 3 mm are made in the tube from above at a distance of 30-60 cm. Rubber seals and splitters are inserted into them, which can have from 2 to 4 branches. Dropper hoses are inserted into the branches - plastic tubes with holes. Droppers are stuck into the ground next to the plants.
- The system is tested and the required pressure is determined, which is regulated by a reducer or valve valve on the tank.
Do-it-yourself installation of a drip irrigation system is not difficult; with the right calculation, drip irrigation can reduce the labor intensity of gardening and increase the yield by 1.5-2 times. For the winter, the system is easily disassembled: tubes and droppers are removed, water is drained from the tank, and control equipment is removed. If necessary, the system can be expanded or rescheduled. Its use is not limited to the garden plot, it can be successfully used in flower beds, balconies, lawns and in the greenhouse.
Video: connecting a drip irrigation system
Evgeny Sedov
When hands grow from the right place, life is more fun :)
Content
Since ancient times, man has tried to use water as carefully as possible for irrigating cultivated crops. Improving irrigation methods, people gradually moved from the use of pots with holes buried in the ground to a drainage irrigation system, from clay conduits to perforated metal pipes. A real breakthrough in the issue of economical use of water for irrigation was the invention of plastic. Thanks to plastic pipes, a drip irrigation system has become a reality, which today any adult can assemble.
What is drip irrigation
The method of irrigation with the supply of water in small portions to the root zone of cultivated plants is called drip irrigation. For the first time, this unique method was proposed by the Israeli Simcha Blass. Since 1960, the micro-irrigation method has been rapidly spreading around the world. In addition to minimizing water consumption, drip irrigation has a positive effect on the development of crops, which increases crop yields. This method has gained particular popularity in arid climates.
Advantages over manual watering
Sprinkling of water with the help of various devices is considered the usual way of irrigating the land in personal plots. The automatic drip irrigation system has clear advantages over traditional methods of soil moistening:
- It can be used in open ground gardens, greenhouses, indoor plants, fully automating the process of watering.
- Water enters the root zone of the plant, providing uniform moistening of the required soil area. At the same time, the top layer of the earth is not washed away.
- The pressure of the jet and the time of water inflow are adjustable. The root system of a plant organism does not get wet from excess moisture.
- Through the micro-irrigation design, mineral fertilizers can be applied directly to the roots, which contributes to the natural feeding of crops and increases the yield.
- The probability of disease of grown plants associated with putrefactive infections that affect them in conditions of constant waterlogging of the soil is minimized.
- There are fewer weeds, as water does not enter the aisle.
- The soil does not require constant loosening for air to enter, because a dense crust does not form on the surface of the earth.
- Water consumption is significantly reduced.
- The yield is increasing.
The principle of operation and the device of drip irrigation
The system works on the basis of drip water supply to the root system of plants in two ways: on the soil surface (with a perforated hose) or with a recess in the soil (using special droppers). The water flow is supplied from a storage tank or plumbing system. The drip irrigation system is mounted from the following parts and assemblies:
- A plastic or metal container to collect water. Plastic - more practical, because it does not rust. It is better to choose an opaque tank so that the liquid in it does not “bloom”.
- Pump for pumping water from a well.
- A water tap for regulating the water flow.
- Mechanical or electronic controller (timer) to automate the irrigation process.
- Ball valve for emergency shut-off of water movement.
- Water pressure reducer.
- Water filter to prevent clogging of pipes.
- Adapter for fastening the water conduit system.
- Main plastic pipes with a cross section of up to 40 mm.
- Thinner conduits: drip tapes and tubes, droppers.
- Fittings (tees, adapters, plugs, etc.) for mounting and distributing system parts.
Water from the tank moves through the main pipes. Their location depends on the area of the irrigated area and branches with drip lines to each plant. If the system provides for deep irrigation, the conduits are equipped with outlets with droppers at the end, which are inserted into the ground to each root. The water filter protects the pipes from clogging, and the reducer regulates the pressure of the jet to the required level, which is safe for the operation of the irrigation system. The ends of the conduits are closed with plugs.
Kinds
The drip irrigation system is based on gravity or forced water supply. The first type of irrigation is based on the gravity of the water flow. In order for the pressure to be sufficient, and the liquid to flow to the root system of the plants, the storage tank is raised above the ground to a height of at least two meters. The forced irrigation system is provided with water due to its movement from the central water supply system or is pumped from a well by a pump.
The optimal pressure for drip irrigation is no more than 2 atmospheres, so it is desirable to provide a forced mechanism with a gearbox to adjust the water pressure. In extreme cases, this function is performed by a faucet. With its help, manually adjust the water jet, approximately determining the desired pressure. The owner of the cultivated area independently chooses which of the irrigation systems to use. His choice depends on many factors. Material costs, as a rule, play a decisive role.
How to make drip irrigation of an open area or greenhouse
The distance between the droppers should be at least 30 cm so that the soil is evenly moistened. In this case, a maximum of 20 liters per plant. For small cultivation plots, a gravity drip irrigation system is more often used. In the case of equipping large areas with irrigation devices, the best option would be automated irrigation using an electronic controller. It will provide regular, high-quality watering.
Materials and equipment
A simple micro-irrigation system for beds in the garden can be built from improvised materials on your own. A plastic two-hundred-liter barrel raised to a height of 2 meters, a watering main hose and thinner conduits are the main details of a home-made irrigation structure. The most primitive method of drip irrigation is plastic bottles suspended on poles with medical droppers inserted into their lids. Their free ends with a needleless tip are inserted into the ground near each plant being grown.
Tubes of medical droppers are used as taps and in more complex home-made micro-irrigation designs. To do this, attach the rubber tips of the droppers to the holes made in the main hose. There should be as many holes as there are plants to be watered. Automation of drip irrigation is possible through the use of the following mechanisms in the design:
- a float-type shut-off valve to control the filling of the tank with water;
- reducer for regulating the water pressure in the system;
- micro-irrigation controller to eliminate water waste and excess soil moisture.
Schema Design
In order to regularly provide cultivated plants with water, it is very important to correctly develop an irrigation scheme and calculate the parameters of the parts to be purchased. The size of the water intake capacity is calculated by multiplying the irrigated surface area by 30 liters required for deep soil moisture. If a storage tank with a capacity of 1 cubic meter is raised to a height of 2 m, it is possible to water a plot with seedlings of 50 square meters with high quality.
It is not advisable to make drip lines more than 100 m. Violation of this rule will lead to problems in the operation of the irrigation structure for any capacity of the main pipes. Modified types of conduits are more expensive, but are more resistant to changes in water and air temperature, and the harmful effects of ultraviolet rays. The following parameters depend on the diameter of the pipes used:
Mounting
If you correctly calculate the parameters and develop a drip irrigation scheme, you can significantly reduce the labor intensity of gardening and greenhouse work and almost double the yield of cultivated crops. When all the necessary parts are purchased, you should proceed with the installation of the irrigation structure:
- Make a support platform at a height of 2 meters and install a tank on it.
- If the container is filled with water from the water supply network, it is advisable to equip it with a float-type shut-off valve. This will prevent liquid from overflowing.
- Insert an adapter into the bottom of the water collection tank. Screw a water tap onto it using the FUM sealing tape for manual regulation of the water pressure.
- Next, according to the scheme, install the controller (timer). By programming it in a certain way, it is possible to achieve irrigation of the site without the presence of an observer. Irrigation of the land plot will begin at the specified time and end strictly at the appointed hour.
- Insert a ball valve to shut off the flow of water into the system as needed.
- To avoid water pressure surges, a reduction gear is installed. If the pressure in the water supply network is less than 2 atm, a pump is installed that increases the water pressure.
- The fine filter will prevent clogging of pipes. It is attached after the water pressure regulator.
- With the help of fittings, the developed design of main pipes and branches with drip lines is mounted. It is connected to the main conduit through an adapter.
- A thinner hose is connected to the main pipe through tees and adapters. The end of the bends is bent and special clamps are put on them, which play the role of plugs.
- Holes of 3 mm are made on top of a thin hose at a distance of 30 cm from each other. Splitters are inserted into them. To prevent water seepage, rubber seals are used.
- Splitters come in different designs, have 2-4 outlets, on which “antennae” (thin tubes) with droppers are attached.
- Test the operation of the installation by adjusting the water pressure.
Drip irrigation system operation
Proper operation of an automated system is the key to its smooth operation. To prevent failure of the micro-irrigation structure, it is necessary:
- Clean the filter weekly.
- In autumn, dismantle the drip irrigation system, drain all the water and store it until the next season.
- After feeding the plants with a solution of mineral fertilizers through the micro-irrigation system, fill the tank with clean water, rinse pipes and hoses with it for 10-15 minutes. This must be done to avoid the negative impact of chemicals on plastic conduits.
- To increase the life of the drip irrigation system, it is desirable to lay its elements underground. Subsoil irrigation requires a lot of effort during the installation of the structure, but has a number of advantages. First, water is saved, because it does not evaporate from the surface of the earth. Secondly, the harmful effects of ultraviolet rays, weather conditions on pipes and hoses are reduced.
Drip irrigation system for indoor plants
If there is no one to entrust the watering of indoor plants during the holidays, you can build a gravity drip irrigation of green pets from improvised means. To do this, you will need a water tank, the volume of which depends on the number of flower pots, and medical droppers. This method of micro-irrigation is good because it can be used to adjust the rate of moisture supply to the plant root.
If we take, for example, a ten-liter plastic canister and several droppers as the basis for the design, then proceed as follows:
- 1 cm above the bottom of the container, drill as many holes as there are flower pots that require watering during the absence of the owners. Their diameter should be slightly less than the lumen of the dropper tube.
- Alternately heat the tubes in boiling water until they soften and insert into the holes of the canister. To avoid leaks, treat the joints with any sealant available in the house (silicone, waterproof glue).
- Fill the container with water, place it 1 m above the level of the flower pots. Adjust the flow of fluid using the clamp-regulator (wheel) of the dropper.
- Insert the injection knot without a needle into the soil of the flower pot close to the stem of the plant.
How to choose automatic drip irrigation
To buy a drip irrigation system, you need to know what is the fundamental difference between the models offered on the market. By comparing the capacity of the design, its price with its own goals and capabilities, you can make a purchase. Criterias of choice:
- view:
- Tubular. They are based on rigid hoses with built-in nozzles for attaching bends.
- Tape. The ramifications of the system consist of elastic bands with capillary holes.
- equipment:
- The larger the irrigation area, the more components of drip irrigation and the higher the cost of goods.
- The presence of a storage tank. Such models are more expensive.
- With automatic regulators of water pressure and watering time or providing manual adjustment.
- Existence of external nozzles-droppers. Their design can be monoblock or collapsible. Monoblock in case of breakage cannot be repaired. In collapsible models, you can adjust the rate of drops, regardless of the water pressure in the pipe.
- The price depends on the complexity of the design and the quality of the components.
Good day to all!
Gardening is already in full swing. Vegetable crops grown during the winter have been planted or are being planted.
Planted plants need watering. There are several types of irrigation, which differ not only in the method of irrigation, but also in the device.
There are three main ways:
Intrasoil is the watering of garden plants with the help of special pipes and hoses.
Rain - watering plants from above. That is, watering occurs by spraying water that falls on the plants from above.
Micro-irrigation and drip - used for watering individual plants.
Drip irrigation has a number of advantages. Firstly, if you do not have the opportunity to often come to the site to irrigate plants, then by installing such a system, it will do everything by itself. Water, in addition, comes directly to the roots of plants, i.e., under-root irrigation is carried out. And this is much better for plants than irrigation from above. Secondly, you can also water with a drip method in the heat, without fear that water will get on the leaves and the plant will get burned.
Now in stores you can find a lot of different systems for drip irrigation. But within the framework of this article, we will talk about how to make such irrigation yourself. Moreover, not everyone can afford the purchase of this device. A set of drip irrigation at a cost ranges from 1.5 thousand to 5 thousand rubles.
In hot weather, and this is especially true in the southern regions of our country, the soil must not only be moistened, but shed under the roots of plants, practically, to a depth of 30 cm. It is estimated that, under such conditions, per 1 sq. m. it is necessary to pour out up to 3 buckets of water. Agree that the volume for manual watering is too big. And if the hot days are long enough….
When root watering, much less water is consumed, and the moisture itself goes directly to the roots. Therefore, most plants love under-root irrigation.
In addition, watering depends on the nature of the soil. On light sandy soils, water drains quickly, so watering is needed much more often here than on loamy ones.
Each plant has its own methods and norms of irrigation. The most demanding in this regard is cabbage. When tying heads of cabbage, you have to water the cabbage daily, as a result, per 1 sq. m. consumes up to 30 liters of water.
In extreme heat, it is best to water the cabbage with a rain method, and in a cooler one - with a drip.
As for tomatoes, they need to be watered only under the root. And it is best to do this in the morning. With the advent of flowers watered once a week, then after 10 days.
Cucumbers, like cabbage, also love water. However, the intensity of watering depends on the growing season of this plant. Before flowering, for example, this plant is watered once a week. With the advent of flowers - every 3-4 days, and in the heat it is possible every day. Cucumbers are best watered from above (rain method), irrigation. Watering from a hose with a direct stream of water is not recommended. If spots appear on the leaves (the plant is sick), then drip irrigation is used.
Peppers and eggplants are irrigated every 7-10 days. If they are watered less often, then they may not grow from thirst. Watered by drip method under the root. However, irrigation can be done early in the morning and in the evening.
Carrots are sown in the soil by seeds, and therefore the earth must be almost constantly wet. You can water carrots in any way. But most gardeners use irrigation. Onions and garlic are watered abundantly only if yellow tips appear on the feathers.
Pumpkin and zucchini are often not watered, but very plentifully. But this is if manually. And it is best to do this only at the root. Therefore, in the presence of drip irrigation, it will be much easier to soak the soil under these crops.
The benefits of drip irrigation are obvious. The earth with such irrigation is always loose, oxygen is well supplied to the roots, there is no strong waterlogging. In addition, water does not fall on the leaves, which is fatal for most plants.
This method is especially effective in greenhouses. No need to waste energy and, especially, a large amount of water.
How is drip irrigation done? As mentioned above, a large number of a wide variety of irrigation systems are now sold in stores. But due to the high cost, not everyone purchases this system.
In principle, such a system can be made independently. It is enough to purchase a water tank and polypropylene pipes or hoses.
You can do without laying a system of hoses and pipes around the garden. It is enough to organize individual drip irrigation for each plant. This is done using simple plastic bottles. Surely everyone has enough of them to use for such a case. By the way, you can also decorate the site beautifully with bottles! .
We do our own drip watering from bottles
In general, it is not difficult to come up with individual drip irrigation. You can use the experience of leaving indoor plants while you are away on vacation. The diagram below shows several options made using bottles, and more.
The easiest option is to cut off the bottom of the bottle, punch a few holes in the cork. The bottle is dug in with the cut bottom up next to the plant, at a distance of 15 centimeters from it. Now it remains only to pour water into the bottle and it will gradually soak the soil.
Instead of a cork, you can also use special nozzles with which the bottles are installed in the ground and through which water enters the soil.
Another option for using bottles. We make holes along the body of the bottle and dig it into the ground right up to the neck.
If in the previous versions the bottles were dug into the ground, then the next option differs in that the bottles are suspended above the plants, but in such a way that the drip part is close to the root above the ground.
You can hang such a bottle both upside down and upside down. To whom it is more convenient then water will be poured into it. But with this version of the hole, it is necessary to make it so that the water flows out of them and not too quickly, and not too slowly.
An interesting option is the use of a medical dropper. With its help, you can adjust the intensity of moisture supply, as if you put a dropper on a sick person.
Drip irrigation from bottles is not expensive, but it has its drawbacks. It is necessary to monitor the filling of water in the bottle. In addition, the holes through which water enters the soil become clogged. Experienced gardeners recommend using nylon tights as drainage to avoid this. However, saving water is a plus. Also, the water warms up while it is in the bottle. Therefore, the plant receives warm water. Weeds already, practically do not grow on a site with drip irrigation. And that's good too.
And, of course, the simplicity in creating such an irrigation system, as well as very low costs for the purchase of components.
The video below clearly shows how to organize drip irrigation on the site using plastic bottles.
How to make a drip irrigation system from polypropylene pipes
Drip irrigation from bottles is good, but if you have a lot of plants, then this method will become ineffective. Therefore, one way or another, it is necessary to carry out a drip irrigation system using containers and polypropylene pipes.
Before making a system, it is necessary to plan its location. In general terms, the irrigation scheme is as follows:
Plastic pipes are the most convenient material for watering. They are also durable, they are not threatened with rupture when water freezes. And installation is much easier than with metal pipes.
The irrigation system is mounted both with manual water supply - that is, with a simple opening of the tap of the water supply tank, and automatic. This must be taken into account when installing the system, so as not to redo everything later.
The irrigation system consists of the main line, through which water flows from the tank and outlet lines. Through them, water goes directly to the plants. Accordingly, the diameter of the pipes for the main line must be larger than for the branch lines. On average, pipes with a diameter of 20 to 40 mm are used.
So, having drawn the layout of the irrigation system and purchased the necessary materials according to it, you can proceed with the installation. There is another trick here. It is possible to lay the highway both on the surface of the earth, and buried in the ground.
The advantage of being on the surface is that you can assemble them much faster and it will also be more convenient to change broken parts. However, it will be much faster to damage such a system than the one you bury.
The general installation scheme is the same in both cases, only in the second option you will need to dig trenches to a depth of 70 cm.
Naturally, the system starts from the tank, which is used as an ordinary barrel. The entire installation starts from her. Therefore, the entire circuit of the highway will depend on where and how you install the barrel.
The barrel must be installed at a height of at least 1.5 meters. This is provided that the water supply is not provided by a pump. If it is possible to install a barrel near the place of water intake, then it is better to install it there. Then filling it will be much easier.
The diagram shows the approximate location of the tank and irrigation system.
The hole to which the water outlet hose is attached should be placed at least 5 cm from the bottom of the barrel. Then the water outlet will not be clogged.
A fitting cuts into the hole in the barrel, a tap is attached to it, and an adapter to the pipes is attached to the tap. A ball valve is well suited as a valve. It can have both external and internal threads. The choice depends on the connection of the pipes.
If you separate several pipes from the barrel, then a tee is used. Usually one pipe goes from the barrel - the central line. Irrigation pipes are already leaving from it to the beds. They come to the right place, and a plug is placed at the end.
All parts are interconnected by twins and tees with collet clamps or clamps.
A branch is made from the central line, which is fixed to the tee using a collet clamp. Holes for droppers are made on the outlets. Make the required number of holes.
After the system has been mounted, it is necessary to make a preliminary inclusion in order to check its performance.
Thus, creating drip irrigation with your own hands is not a difficult process and even a novice gardener can create it.
Summer residents who have the opportunity to come to their site only on weekends are well aware of the situation when, after a working week, the plants have to be literally “soldered” to bring them back to normal. For such cases, experts recommend the use of drip irrigation systems. This can be purchased in a kit, or you can do it yourself. But in any case, you will need to install drip irrigation, the correct implementation of which depends on the volume of the future crop.
Briefly about the composition and operation of the system
Drip irrigation is a set of pipelines stretched across the site. Water is supplied through them to the irrigation zone. However, it does not pour out in large quantities on the beds, but comes in drops with a flow rate of 1-2 liters per hour. This is achieved due to low pressure and small diameters of outlets.
Such a system must include:
- water source;
- main pipeline;
- drip lines;
- optional equipment.
General view of the drip irrigation system
The functions of a water feeder, as a rule, are performed by a storage tank. Plumbing can also be used as a source. But most often, irrigation requires water that has a temperature higher than that which is in the central network. For this reason, a storage tank is the more common option.
How to do the installation yourself
Having chosen drip irrigation as an option to provide plants in a summer cottage with a sufficient amount of moisture, it is necessary not only to perform the installation of a drip irrigation system with high quality, but also to responsibly approach the design and planning of the purchase of necessary materials.
Scheme of assembly of an automatic system
Planning a drip irrigation system
It is advisable to plan the system before the plants are planted. In such a situation, it is easier to lay communications.
First you need to decide on the water source. If a storage capacity is used as such, then its volume is calculated based on the number of consumption points and the intensity of use of the system. Water consumption depends on which plants are planned to be watered, and what climate is typical for the region. Usually, as already mentioned, a flow rate of 1-2 liters per hour is sufficient. Moreover, the water supply is not carried out constantly, but as the earth dries up.
When planning the installation of a storage tank, it is better to choose its location based on the distance to the irrigation sites. It is desirable to make these distances as close as possible in magnitude. In this case, the container is installed at a height of at least 1 meter above the ground.
Plastic pipes are used for the main pipeline. The diameter is better to take 50 mm. This size will make it possible to install fittings for side branches (drip lines) without any problems. Although it is permissible to use smaller diameters.
Option for the location of the storage tank
For drip lines, you can use ½ or ¾ inch plastic pipes or use drip tape. Water supply to the outside can be done through small diameter holes in pipes or in a tape, or special drippers can be used. This option makes it possible to supply water exactly to the roots of the plant.
The use of droppers is more preferable also because they are all guaranteed to have the same diameter. Accordingly, the flow through them will depend only on the pressure, and since the pressures in such networks are small, the costs will be commensurate.
In order to install drip irrigation with your own hands, you will need:
- storage tank (pumping station);
- main pipeline;
- drip pipelines or tapes;
- droppers;
- fittings (start connectors, tees, plugs);
- cranes.
Scheme of installation with storage tank
Drip irrigation installation technology
You need to start with the installation of a water feeder. Then the main pipeline is connected to it. It is better to put a stopcock at the entrance to it. If necessary, it will be possible to block it and stop watering. It will also be useful to install a filter at the inlet to the pipeline. It will reduce the chance of clogging drippers or water outlets.
Next is going to the main pipeline. It is usually laid along the paths and the edge of the beds. At the points of connection of drip branches in the line, holes are drilled for connectors (diameter 14 mm). A union nut can be additionally used to seal the connection. Drip pipelines or tapes are connected through connectors. At the entrance to each branch, it is desirable to put a tap in order to be able to block a specific direction if necessary.
After drip pipelines are laid, holes for irrigation are drilled or droppers are installed, their far end is covered with a plug.
Upon completion of the assembly of the system, it is necessary to carry out hydraulic tests, check it for unauthorized leaks, adjust the amount of water flowing through the sections with stopcocks.
Connecting drip pipelines
Some nuances of installation
At the installation stage, it is advisable to pay attention to the presence of a slope towards the farthest droppers. Otherwise, there will be no movement of water in the system, operating due to the forces of the earth's gravity.
When connecting the main pipeline to a water source, it is better to put an additional tee in case it becomes necessary to add new irrigation directions. And if the functions of a water source are performed by a well and a pumping station, then this tee will allow the use of water for other purposes.
It is desirable to make all connections in the network detachable. This will allow at the end of the gardening season to dismantle the system and remove the equipment into the room. It will also make it possible, if necessary, to change the configuration of the irrigation network when changing the plan of planted beds.
Water consumption in individual sections can be controlled using water meters. Their readings will help you set up the system with the required accuracy - after all, different plants require different watering intensity.
To automate the entire system, a timer can be set at the outlet of the water source, which will organize the supply of water according to the desired schedule during the absence of the owners.
This is how you can install drip irrigation from a pumping station or a storage tank, making life easier for yourself in the country during the gardening season. More detailed information is recommended to be gleaned from the video:
Tired of running around the yard with a watering can, dragging gallons of water every day? Organize drip irrigation in the greenhouse with your own hands. Such a system will not only help you save a lot of time and effort. A gradual drip of water will also be beneficial for plants.
System Benefits
The drip irrigation method was first used in Israel in the 1950s, in a similar way scientists tried to cope with water scarcity. Later it was found that when it is supplied in small portions, not only water and labor resources are saved. Drip irrigation allows you to get earlier harvests.
During normal irrigation, water passes into the ground to a depth of 10 cm. Gradual dripping of it allows the root system to be more saturated with moisture. Roots grow much faster, which means they extract more nutrients from the ground.
Scheme of installation of a drip irrigation system
Since the rest of the soil remains dry, the likelihood of waterlogging the soil is reduced. This has a positive effect on plant health - after all, most of such formidable diseases as powdery mildew, white, gray rot, black leg, bacterial spot develop precisely in conditions of waterlogging.
Since water is supplied under the root, the likelihood of plant burns, which usually occur when moisture gets on the leaves, is significantly reduced. This is due to the effect of the lens, which serve as small drops.
Plus, since only the root zone is irrigated, weeds that don't get enough moisture spread at a slower rate. Prevents a similar system and soil erosion.
Drip irrigation system for greenhouseis simple, but with its help it is possible to achieve an increase in plant yield by 30-40%. This method of irrigation allows you to accurately calculate the time and intensity of watering for each type of plant.
Initially, it was used only in greenhouse conditions. In the future, this method began to be used when growing plants in open ground.
Disadvantages of drip irrigation
The main disadvantage of do-it-yourself drip irrigation systems for greenhouses is mandatory control. After all, with an incorrect calculation and an excess of moisture in the area, in addition to overspending water, you will simply destroy the plants. You will need to regularly check the filling of the barrel - it will need to be constantly topped up.
The disadvantages of drip irrigation include the need for periodic cleaning of holes - due to their small diameter, they often become clogged. However, this is not difficult to do - just flush or purge the system.
To protect the system from contamination, a filter is installed at the inlet (that is, at the beginning of the hose in the barrel). You can even use an ordinary piece of foam rubber as it.
It will become much easier to clean the system - it will be enough to pull out and rinse the foam rubber. It is also necessary to protect the barrel itself from the ingress of debris and insects, as well as the receiver-distributor - they will need to be covered with lids.
Operating principle
We will describe in detail the device for drip irrigation in a home greenhouse. Water supply with this method is carried out using dropper dispensers (nozzles). Its simplest version is a hose with 3-8 mm holes made in it and a main spout plugged with a cork.
To ensure pressure, a tank filled with water with a hose lowered into it is raised to a certain height. Depending on the required pressure, it can be from 1 to 10 m. More complex systems are automated, but we will talk about this below.
Drip irrigation should be done only under the roots of plants. When water is supplied to the aisle, moisture for the roots will not be enough, and crops will develop worse. At the same time, the earth around will be compacted, loosening will be needed. Plus, the damp earth under the rays of the sun will overheat, which will adversely affect growth.
The source of water does not have to be a tap or a barrel. They can serve as a well, a well or a pond. To do this, you will need to connect a pump to the system.
But in any of the cases, the mandatory installation of a filter is required - otherwise the pipeline will quickly become clogged. When taking water from an open source (reservoir), it is first necessary to install a coarse filter, and only then a fine one. In other cases, a single fine filter is sufficient.
But still, for watering a greenhouse or garden, it is better to heat the water in the sun before watering. For this, containers (barrels) of a suitable size are used. When it is raised to a certain height, water will flow into the system by gravity.
Water consumption during drip irrigation for such moisture-loving plants as cucumbers is 2 liters per bush, that is, several times less than the usual norm. Drip irrigation of tomatoes in a greenhouse with already formed fruits is carried out 1 time in 4 days.
Each plant will need 1.5 liters of water. Cabbage and potatoes will need 2.5 liters per day.
Thus, when water is supplied from a 3 l / hour dropper, it will take a little less than an hour to water cucumbers, about 30 minutes for tomatoes, about an hour for cabbage and early potatoes.
Required Materials
To equip a permanent irrigation system that will be operated from year to year, it is better to purchase not hoses, but more durable PVC pipes. Since moisture should enter the system slowly, the diameter of the tubes is selected to be minimal - up to 10-16 mm.
It is better not to use transparent pipes or tapes - algae will grow inside them. Metal pipes will not last long - rust will quickly clog the dropper nozzles.
Manufacturers also offer ready-made irrigation systems in the form of polyethylene drip tapes with built-in drippers. With the help of them it is easier to dose watering - micropores inside resemble a labyrinth in which the direction of water flow is controlled.
The wall thickness of the tapes can vary from 0.127 to 0.381 mm. However, such systems serve no more than one season. In the spring, you will need to purchase new tapes.
In addition to distribution and irrigation pipes, you will need:
- a pump that comes with a filter (such systems are called masterblocks) for supplying water at a certain pressure (up to 1.5 bar)
- droppers (we described their device and types above)
- racks for strengthening droppers-dispensers at the roots of plants
- cocks (switches) for adjusting the flow force and shutting off the system in separate modules
- fum-tape or tow for sealing joints
- plastic connectors
- adapters
- tees
- plugs: they are located at the ends of pipelines
When taking water from a well, you will also need a filter. You can buy a regular mesh or disk. To install automated stations, you will also need a control unit (timer) and a battery.
As nozzles (droppers), you can use parts from medical droppers with a diameter of 1-2 mm.
System assembly. Main stages of work
Doing drip irrigation in a greenhouse with your own hands is not difficult:
1 To install the system, you will need a 100-200-liter barrel, which is raised to a height of about 1-2 meters. If there is a cover, holes are prepared in it for air to enter. If there is no lid, it is better to cover the container with gauze.
2 To insert the hose at the very bottom of the barrel, a hole is prepared with a tap-tip installed in it.
3 Each of the tubes or hoses is laid with a slight slope of 5 cm for each meter of length. They are fixed on small pegs stuck in the ground.
4 Too long pipelines should not be pulled - they will need very large containers. It is much more profitable and more convenient to use several independent systems.
5 PVC pipes are cut with a hacksaw, pipe cutter or miter saw. To obtain tight joints, the cut angle must be accurate and equal to 90 degrees. Therefore, it is better to clamp the pipes in a vise.
6 Small 2 mm holes must be made in hoses or plastic main pipes. In a simple do-it-yourself drip irrigation system in a greenhouse, droppers can be replaced with pieces of ordinary wire, along which drops of water will descend and be supplied to the plant.
7 You can make holes in the hose with an awl or a nail held by pliers. In PVC pipes, it is more convenient to make them with a small-diameter wood drill.
8 When using the pipeline in the form of finished tapes, they are carefully laid out over the site. Pulling and dragging them to avoid damage is strictly prohibited.
9 Pay attention to the markings on the tape in the form of colored lines. Sprinklers are located on this side. It is necessary to lay the system with colored lines up.
11 When connecting taps, fittings (tees and adapters), fum-tape or tow is required for perfect sealing of joints.
12 Before inserting the plug, the system must be flushed out of plastic chips that enter the pipes when drilling.
13 The last step is to check the system. After starting the water, it is necessary to ensure that water reaches each, including the last dropper in the garden. The soil near them should be evenly moistened.
.1 As in the previous case, for the installation of the system you will need a storage tank (barrel) with a tap to shut off the water. To create pressure, it is installed at a height of 1-2 m.
2 You will also need 20-40 mm PVC pipes and fittings (tees and adapters).
3 In the pipeline, every 20-40 cm, round holes of 2-3 mm or slot-like holes of a slightly smaller width (1-2 mm) are made every 20-40 cm, 5-10 mm long.
4 Water consumption should be small - 0.1-0.3 liters per day. This requires minimal pressure.
5 To protect against small particles of debris that can clog the system, filters are installed at the beginning of the pipeline (inside the barrel). You can use both mesh, sand or gravel.
6 The depth of laying the pipeline into the ground is 20-30 cm. The minimum distance between them is 40-90 cm. It is not worth laying pipes higher, otherwise the water will seep out and the soil will quickly become crusted.
7 Since on heavy loamy soils water flows both in depth and on the sides, the distance between adjacent pipelines can be made a little larger. On loose sandy soils, when moisture passes mainly inland, the distance between adjacent pipelines should be minimal.
9 You can determine the distance for specific crops empirically. Bury one or two pipelines next to the garden bed and after a couple of days dig with a shovel in 2-3 places. The soil in this place should be slightly damp.
10 On dry sandy soils, so that precious moisture does not go to great depths, a film 10-20 cm wide is laid under the pipes.
11 It is necessary to supply water to the humidifier pipes under a small pressure at a water flow rate of 0.1-0.3 l / s.
12 To prevent the openings of humidifiers from becoming clogged with debris, soil particles or silt, water should be supplied to them through mesh, gravel or sand filters.
13 Just like in a conventional drip system, an underground (subsurface) irrigation system can be equipped with a pump and a timer to ensure automatic water supply at a given time.
When using underground irrigation systems, it is desirable to use special hoses impregnated with herbicides. It does not allow the roots of plants to break into the inlets.
Use of plastic bottles
For watering small areas, you can make a simple device consisting of a plastic bottle with a small piece of tube inserted into it, hanging upside down. As it is more convenient to use an empty rod from a ballpoint pen.
In addition to the main hole for the tube, you will need a second one through which air will escape. If the tube is too wide, another, thinner tube or piece of insulation from the wire, called a jet, is inserted into the main tube to reduce the rate of water supply.
You can do it even easier. In a plastic bottle, pierce 8-12 holes in the bottom. Their number depends on the type of soil. On light sandy holes, a minimum number is made.
Moisture seeps into the clay soil more slowly, so the number of holes is increased. However, their size must be minimal, otherwise the water will pour out of the bottles very quickly. It is better to do this with a regular needle.
The simplest bottle watering system
The bottle is filled with water, closed with a lid and buried in the ground, leaving the neck unfilled. As the container empties, you will add water through it. Since it can shrink as the water flows out of the bottle, it is better to make a small hole in the cap as well.
With a bottle buried in the ground, the plants will be supplied with water using underground irrigation. The top layer of soil will not be wetted, so the usual crust on it, which needs to be constantly loosened, will not form.
When dripping tomatoes in a greenhouse using this method, one liter bottle is enough for 5 days. A similar volume will be enough to water one bush. A 5 liter container will provide them with water for 10 days.
Clay soil can quickly clog small holes. To prevent this, use regular nylon stockings. They are pulled over corks or parts of bottles with holes made in them.
Another method of protection against clogging of holes is often used - drainage. Before burying the bottle in the ground, to do this, throw some hay or a piece of burlap on the bottom of the pit.
Of course, it will be difficult to use such systems for irrigating a large number of plants. But in some cases, for summer residents who rarely appear on the site, this can be a lifesaver.
It is better to bury the bottle in the ground at an angle of 30-45 degrees so that the water pressure is minimal. In this case, the flow rate of water will decrease.
Drip irrigation of indoor plants
Such a device will come in handy during your vacation. There are many ready-made drip irrigation systems on sale in the form of flasks that look like enemas, capillary trays, wicks, smart pots, etc.
Manufacturers also offer to use hydrogel for long trips from home - a polymer that can retain moisture, and then give it to plants for a certain time.
If you decide to make drip irrigation for indoor plants, before you go on vacation, be sure to check the performance of the system. If water is poured out of it too quickly, during the first couple of days, in the remaining time the plants will become without water and simply die.
To assemble a drip irrigation system, you will need a large plastic bottle and an old medical dropper or one or more thin food grade silicone tubes. They can be found in medical supply stores.
In hardware stores selling moonshine stills, you can buy tubes of a slightly larger diameter. The outlet end of such tubes can be closed with a plug, and several holes for irrigation can be made in the tube itself.
Assembling a wick irrigation system is even easier. To do this, a large container of water is placed next to the flower pot. One end of the wick is lowered into the container, the other is buried in the ground.
Drip irrigation of tomatoes
Despite the simplicity of design, the drip irrigation system requires constant maintenance.
To extend its life, observe the following rules:
1 Metal under the influence of water will quickly become covered with rust, the smallest particles of which will constantly clog the pipeline. Therefore, it is better to mount the system from plastic. It is undesirable to use a metal barrel and pipes.
3 Remember to protect the pipeline with filters. They can be purchased at any hardware store or you can make your own from a piece of foam rubber inserted into the supply pipe located at the entrance to the barrel.
4 Clean the filter more often, at least once a week.
5 Water in the barrel should only be filled with clean or settled water.
Simple watering in a greenhouse for 525 rubles with your own hands
Do-it-yourself drip irrigation device in a greenhouse: from a barrel, a plastic bottle, and even an automatic system. For tomatoes and other crops (Photo & Video) + Reviews