One of the most respected ingredients in vegetable salads, greenhouse lover and daily care, "Senor Tomato" grows well on open beds... You just need to find the right approach to growing it. How to get the healthy seedlings tomatoes, how to plan its planting and, with the help of top dressing, ensure the availability of everything you need in the soil - this article will tell you everything, accompanied by a photo.
The origin of the plant is the key to its cultivation
It is curious that in the vast family of nightshades, so generous in poisonous forms like henbane or dope, there are only five truly edible plants... These are potatoes, eggplant, Bell pepper, physalis and tomato. In addition to eggplant, they all come from the South American continent, which fully explains their claims to growing conditions.
In particular, the tomato was exported by the Spaniards from Peru. Forming in this region, plants have evolutionarily adapted to such climatic conditions, how:
- well-warmed, dry mountain air of the subtropical zone;
- lack of tall plants - competitors for light;
- high soil moisture in mountain valleys.
Adequate moisture is needed to grow tomatoes.
Similar conditions in the middle lane are easiest to create in a greenhouse with drip irrigation, but if you try, then in open ground tomatoes are large and juicy.
What varieties to choose
In the five hundred years that have passed since the appearance of tomatoes in Europe, many varieties have been bred for both greenhouses and open plantations. The latter are more tolerant to decrease average daily temperatures, can grow without additional illumination and finish their life cycle... Among the best varieties, the following can be mentioned:
- Mystery. Low-growing super-early hybrid with strong shoots and abundant leaf mass. Branches violently, so do not forget to pinch, and you will get the harvest 2.5 months after sowing the seeds.
- Anastasia. Another ultra-early hybrid with powerful brushes. The fruit has a characteristic tapering tip.
- Raspberry giant. Has the largest fruits among medium early varieties- each can reach 500-700 g. Resistant to fungal infections.
Choose from all varieties the one that suits your region
- Roma. Dutch canning variety with small but even fruits, up to 20 per cluster.
- Mushroom basket. A mid-season variety that requires pinching and garters. It is interesting in the shape of the fruit: each tomato seems to consist of two dozen narrow slices. Looks unusual in winter pickles.
Attention! Do not try to propagate hybrids by seed. Descendants are susceptible to the splitting phenomenon of the variety and will certainly disappoint you by not meeting the expected result.
Healthy seedlings are the key to a luxurious harvest
Bearing in mind the Peruvian origin of the plant, we grow seedlings at a temperature of +25 degrees. If you want to reject unusable seeds, we soak them in salted water: the ones that have emerged have lost their germination, we throw them away. We sow the seeds disinfected in potassium permanganate (20 minutes) in even rows in boxes under the film.
Since our tomatoes will live outdoors, the seeds can be hardened before sowing. To do this, the soaked seeds are kept alternately for half a day in a room, half a day in the refrigerator.
The main concern when getting tomato seedlings is not to let them stretch out. The tomato is very photophilous and in a cloudy spring will grow with a long thin stem. We prevent this trouble in two ways:
- we illuminate with fluorescent lamps, in the first days of development around the clock;
- we calculate the sowing time in such a way as to plant seedlings no older than 50-60 days.
Seedlings of tomatoes
At the stage of the first true leaves, we dive the seedlings. In order not to injure the root system again later, we plant the seedlings in individual cups, from which it is easy to shake them out, or even in those that decompose in the soil. They can be made from:
- old newspapers;
- laminate substrates;
- pieces of greenhouse film;
- rolls from toilet paper.
Advice. Try growing your seedlings on coconut. The root system is formed on it strong and healthy.
We deepen the plant along the cotyledons and mulch with humus with the addition of ash in order to prevent the "black leg". When the daytime temperature outside exceeds 10 degrees, we proceed to hardening young tomatoes. To do this, we expose them to the open air every day, first only in the shade, and later on the sunny side.
How the conditions of the site and the distance between plants affect the yield
Tomatoes in the open field should be grown so that they feel as if they are surrounded by the sunny Andes valleys. We plant seedlings for permanent residence when the last frosts have passed. At the latitude of Moscow, this is the end of May, to the north - the beginning of June, to the south - mid-May.
Advice. Plan to plant seedlings in cloudy weather or in the evening.
We choose the distance between the bushes taking into account the fact that each leaf should:
- get maximum light for the formation of sugars;
- blow freely with air to avoid fungal infections;
- be available for inspection for mineral starvation or pest infestation.
We plant early-ripening tomatoes at a distance of 40 cm between neighboring bushes, late-ripening ones - 50 cm.
We care with love and competence
This is what we want from the tomato fruit more and earlier, but he is in no hurry and seeks to give a maximum of green mass. The problem is solved by pinching - removing unnecessary shoots. In the open field, we form tomatoes in 1, less often in 2 stems. In the second case, we leave the stepson, who had the good fortune to appear under the very first flower brush.
In August, we pinch the top of the stem in order to finally stop its growth for the benefit of ripening the fruits, and also gradually cut off the lower leaves.
Tomato is picky about the presence of moisture around the roots, and in summer it rapidly evaporates through the soil capillaries. To avoid this, we loosen the soil in the beds, breaking the crust into lumps. Mulching also helps: we spread peat, sawdust or straw around the bushes.
Carry out pinching tomatoes
The ripening crop rapidly draws minerals from the soil, so do not forget about the removal of weeds - competitors for food - and about top dressing. To process 1 square meter of the plantation, we dilute 10 g of superphosphate and ammonium nitrate in a bucket of water and feed:
- two weeks after disembarking seedlings;
- after the appearance of the ovaries.
Tomatoes are capable of self-pollination, but for a guaranteed result it is better to help them: gently shake the bushes or knock on their stems. You can plant melliferous plants, such as mustard, along the edges of the plot. The bees attracted to them may also visit the tomatoes.
We organize watering competently
The frequency and amount of watering depends on the weather. On average, we water the tomatoes once a week, thoroughly soaking the soil between rows or at the root. Whenever possible, we avoid getting water on the leaves to prevent burns. During the ripening period, we increase the frequency of watering.
The main thing when organizing watering tomatoes is regularity. If you take a long break, and then water "twice", the plants will greedily begin to absorb water, and this is almost guaranteed to lead to cracking of the fruit. It is better to do the first watering in a cut portion, and the next day to water properly.
Drip irrigation of tomatoes
The first ripe, scented tomatoes will be ready in mid-August. We remove them as they ripen, so that they do not interfere with the pouring of their brethren. If August is cool, you will have to remove the fruits in brown or even blanche ripeness. Keeping them longer means endangering them with late blight. But even if no signs of the disease are found, we do not compost the tops, but burn them.
Tomatoes are wonderfully acclimatized in the forest zone. Create conditions close to their relatives, and they will thank them with juicy sweet fruits that will be suitable for salad, vegetable stew, and winter pickled platter.
Taking over, experiencing different methods growing tomatoes in the open field, we will focus on the next one, which allows you to get a good harvest.
One of the methods planting tomatoes (tomatoes) in the open field... Soil preparation, seedlings, diving, watering and feeding, as well as useful tips for growing.
Soil preparation and sowing tomatoes
Prepare the soil for seedlings in the fall, store on the balcony in boxes 50 × 20 cm. composition depending on the degree of decomposition of humus.
Well-decomposed humus is mixed with garden soil in a ratio of 2: 1, less decomposed humus is 1: 1, avian-1: 2.
300 g of ash is added to a bucket of mixture, half of the ash can be replaced with 25 g of superphosphate, 50 g of superphosphate is added without ash.
The earth needs to be warmed up in the spring, 4 - 5 days before sowing, shed with a hot solution of potassium permanganate (2 g per 10 l of water).
Sort seeds into saline solution (2 tablespoons per 1 liter of water), keep for 3-5 minutes , stirring vigorously, select the settled, rinse and for 20-25 min. dip in a solution of potassium permanganate (1 g per 100 g of water), rinse again. Place in one-day settled ash solution (2 tablespoons per 1 liter of water) for 6 hours Cover the seeds in the middle of the snowball and place in the freezer for 2-3 days.
It should be sown with a row spacing of 3 cm, in rows - 15-2 cm, the planting depth is 0.5 cm. Sow in well-shed grooves, cover with moist soil (if you cover it with earth without moistening, the seedlings will be with seeds). Then cover the box with foil and put in warm place.
Tomato seedling care
After the emergence of seedlings, transfer the boxes to the windowsill, the temperature must be reduced for 5-6 days, in the daytime up to 15-18 ° С ,
at night up to 8-10 ° C (at a lower temperature, the seedlings turn blue, which is allowed in early development it is forbidden).
Then the temperature must be increased to 22-25 ° C during the day, 10-12 ° C at night.
Dive seedlings in the phase of formation of the third leaf. The required feeding area is 10 × 10 cm. Remove the first true leaf, bend the stem clockwise.
It's better to dive in the evening; in a day, the stem dehydrates and becomes more flexible. Can't be planted in wet ground... After diving, pour a pink solution of potassium permanganate. Mulch on top with dry earth. The box is installed in a place protected from sunlight.
Sprinkle with snow water, daily infusion of ash, superphosphate solution (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), pink solution of potassium permanganate.
Do not use nitrogen fertilizers. Watering tomato seedlings should be in the morning.
Sowing dates depend on the variety. Early ripening varieties are sown on April 10, mid-ripening on April 1, late-ripening on March 20. Part of the seedlings can then be planted under a temporary shelter on May 20-25, for this sowing must be done 15-20 days earlier than when grown in open ground, but not earlier than March 14.
As soon as the air temperature is set to + 10 ° C, the boxes should be taken out into the street or onto the balcony, shaded and protected from winds for 5-10 days. If there is no frost, you can leave it overnight. The stem grows stronger, turns blue, growth slows down.
7-8 days before planting in open ground, the seedlings in boxes are divided into cubes, watered with a superphosphate solution.
Planting tomato seedlings in open ground
It is better not to raise the beds (80-85 cm wide) above general level, the tracks can simply be trodden down. For 1 m 2 of the garden, add a bucket of compost, humus (bird less), 20 g of superphosphate and 10-15 g of kalimaga (if not brought in in the fall). The ridges are framed by a roller.
A week before planting, dig a wide groove in the middle, fertilize it at the rate of 2-3 kg of humus or compost, one tablespoon (without a slide) of superphosphate, a little more ash, a pinch of used dry tea and crushed eggshell per plant.
Place the roots in such a way that the tops of the adjacent stems look in opposite directions of the ridge. Place the plants on the ground lying down, dig in the stems, the leaves on the buried stem can be removed during planting, leaving a free top of 20 cm.
After planting, you need to water it well, sprinkle the soil with humus or dry soil. The distance between plants is 60-70 cm. Between early ripening plants is 45-50 cm. With this planting, no hilling is required. In the future, you need to loosen the ground finely, since roots are formed on the stem along the entire length of the powder.
It should not be allowed that when watering, water gets on the plants - the pollen is washed off, and the plants begin to hurt. To prevent late blight from developing, it is recommended to water with a manganese solution (2 g per 10 l of water) before planting, after the appearance of the first ovary and before ripening on the first brush, 0.5 l of solution for each plant.
Tomato picking
Pay special attention to pinching. To get the fruits of an earlier ripening, you need to form the plant into one stem. When 3-4 brushes are formed, pinch the top, leaving 2-3 leaves above the last brush. Remove all formed stepchildren regularly. Of course, this leads to a loss of yield, so this technique can be allowed for several roots.
In Siberian conditions for obtaining good harvest in the open field mid and late ripening varieties should be formed into two stems, leaving the main stem and stepson under the first brush. On this stepchild, flower brushes are laid on the 1st-3rd or 4th leaf, depending on the variety, in the same way as on the main stem after laying the first brush.
Everything stepsons in bosoms leaves should be removed at a length of 3-5 cm, leaving flower clusters on the main stem and on the stem of the left stepson. When removing the stepson, a stump should be left. This is not a difficult trick if you pay close attention to it.
In early ripening varieties, for earlier ripening of fruits with the formation of a certain number of flower brushes, cut off all appearing stepsons... If you are satisfied with the taste of early ripening, you can combine the two methods - form into one or two stems and leave no more than four brushes on each of them.
Top dressing and watering tomatoes
Well-filled soils do not require nitrogen fertilization. As soon as the first brush is poured, it is necessary to give top dressing 2-3 times from ash (1 glass per 10 liters of water, spending on 8-10 bushes) or a weak solution of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (no more than 2 tablespoons per bucket of water).
Nitrogen fertilizers develop a powerful aerial part, delaying the ripening of fruits. When the fruits are full and begin to ripen, abundant watering is not needed, especially if there was a dry period before, since excess moisture causes the fruits to crack.
In July, in hot, calm weather, shake at noon flowering plants for better pollination.
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We continue the tomato theme. After reading, I hope you learned something new about tomatoes, about the variety of varieties of this wonderful plant, about how to prepare tomato seeds and the timing of their planting, about caring for seedlings.
In this article, we will discuss how to grow excellent harvest tomato on our summer cottages, subject to planting plants in open ground.
So, the topic of our today's article is -
Soil preparation for tomato princes
For a rich harvest, we need, first of all, to find a good place for our pets. Tomato plants love indirect sun and will thrive in sunny but sheltered areas.
- The best predecessors of tomatoes are carrots, cucumbers and onions. And if you plant your favorites next to strawberries, both cultures will benefit from this. The yield of tomatoes and fragrant berries will increase several times, and the fruits will become larger.
But the places where potatoes, eggplants and peppers grew should be avoided by tomatoes. Pathogens of various diseases can accumulate in these areas.
Our country is huge. And the quality of the soil is different in all regions (even in different fields). And tomato princes are very demanding and whimsical to the land. Therefore, we need to find out the quality of the soil in our garden.
◊ Check the acidity. A pH test can be purchased from any garden department. The lower the indicator, the higher the acidity. Neutral ground has a score of 7.0.
- Tomatoes need soil with acidity values between 6.0 and 7.0.
In the case of a lower indicator, we add lime to the soil (0.5-0.8 kg per square meter), if the level is higher, sulfur in the same amount.
◊ We estimate the quantity nutrients. Analysis for the presence of trace elements can be ordered and carried out in special laboratories. This is very useful information for gardeners.
It is necessary in order for the cultivation of tomatoes in the open field to take place without losses and to please with a rich harvest.
| Nitrogen | Potassium | Phosphorus |
| Has an effect on the health of tomato leaves. With a lack of it, the tomato will have yellowed, sluggish leaves. | This substance gives tomatoes strength and health. It increases the immunity and resistance of plants to diseases. With a lack of potassium, tomatoes do not grow well and look stunted. | Helps strengthen the root system and regulates seed formation. With its lack, tomatoes give sick, unripe fruits. |
| If there is a nitrogen deficiency, add fishmeal, compost or inorganic substances such as calcium nitrate, ammonium sulfate or sodium nitrate to the soil. | To compensate for the lack of potassium, fill the soil with sand, granite dust or wood ash (bucket per square meter). | Add superphosphates, compost, and bone meal to the soil to raise phosphorus levels. |
♦ Compost- ideal for soil preparation. It also attracts many earthworms, which do an excellent job of loosening the soil and, in turn, attract and create favorable conditions for the parthenogenesis of beneficial bacteria.
It is necessary to start preparing the land for use in the autumn period after thorough cleaning of all previous plant residues. We dig the area selected for plants to a depth of 30 cm.
- Autumn top dressing. To a depth of 20-25 cm, we apply organic (bird droppings, humus, peat or compost 5 kg per sq. M) or mineral fertilizers(potassium salt 20-25 g, superphosphate 40-50 g per sq. m.).
- Spring top dressing. To a depth of 15-20 cm, we add a mixture of poultry droppings 1 kg, wood ash 1.5 kg and ammonium sulfate 20-25 g per sq. m. Or mineral dressing (superphosphate 55 g, ammonium nitrate 20 g and potassium chloride 15 g per sq. m).
For a successful growing tomatoes the earth must be thoroughly dug up 2-3 times (preferably with a pitchfork) and harrowed. Tomato plants and humus will like it.
But it is better to refuse manure (tomatoes, having tasted manure fertilizers, begin to actively grow their tops, while the growth of fruits fades away).
- If the soil does not warm up enough, you can cover the area with black film or plastic. The black color perfectly attracts the light of the sun and absorbs it, warming up the soil underneath.
On the prepared site, 5-6 days before planting, we form ridges (width 100-120 cm, height 15-20 cm) in the north-south direction. This will help to achieve uniform illumination of the seedlings.
Maintain a distance between the ridges of about 70 cm (for all varieties).
Growing tomatoes in the open field
As soon as the spring frost comes to an end (usually it is the end of May - the beginning of June), we will plant young tomatoes in open ground.
It is ideal to carry out this procedure on a cloudy, gloomy day. If it's sunny outside, wait for the evening.
Plant young shoots in two rows with a distance between them for classic planting:
- For undersized boles and determinant species (row spacing 40-50 cm, between plants 30-35 cm).
- For medium-sized ones (row spacing 50-60 cm, between tomatoes 40-45 cm).
Square-nesting fit
This method will greatly facilitate the care of our tomatoes (it will become easier to loosen them), and the plants themselves will create the most favorable living conditions: it will improve the absorption of nutrients and increase the illumination. As a result, we will achieve a good harvest. We plant it according to the following scheme:
- Standard and determinant varieties: 70x70 cm, 2-3 plants for one nest.
- Early maturing species with a spreading bush: 70x70 cm, a couple of plants in one hole.
- Mid and late ripening: 70x70 cm, 1 bush in one nest. Or 90x90 cm (100x100 cm) - 2 plants each.
Ribbon-nest landing
This method of growing tomatoes in the open field makes it possible to place more bushes in one area. It becomes easier for them, crowded in one hole, to withstand bad weather conditions.
As it grows, weaker shoots thin out.
- With this method, irrigation furrows are cut every 140 cm. Plants are planted on both sides of the furrows (from a row of 60 cm, in the row itself after 70 cm, a couple of bushes in one nest).
Focus on the final growth of the bush. Ideally, for good development it is necessary to provide one tomato about 0.3 sq. m.
On average, for a plot of 100 sq. m. will need approximately 340-420 early tomatoes, and late and medium varieties 240-290 pieces.
Getting started disembarking
First of all, you need to moisten the soil well in pots or boxes with seedlings. This will help to easily remove them from the container and prevent accidental damage to the root system.
Prepared holes for growing tomatoes in the open field should have a depth of 10-15 cm.
We water them (a bucket of water for 8-10 holes) and apply mineral fertilizers mixed with humus (proportion 1x3).
- Turn over the container with seedlings, wrap a medium and forefinger stem of the tomato and remove it from the container.
- Tear off the leaves of the seedlings, leaving only 2-3 leaves on top (this will stimulate root growth).
- Place the plant with the root clod vertically in the hole and cover with compost. In this case, the stem of the tomato should remain open. Only the roots or a pot of soil are placed in the ground.
- Press down firmly around the plant and cover the compost with dry soil.
- After planting, we mulch the soil (for this, mowed, slightly withered grass, sawdust, straw or newspaper leaves are suitable). The mulch layer should be about 10 cm high.
When the planting of tomatoes in the ground is over, we will leave them alone for 8-10 days. During this period, the plants take root and master in a new place.
Do not water them yet. But you need to be prepared for freezing. To do this, immediately after planting, we will cover our young tomatoes with transparent film.
It will remain until the threat of freezing disappears (for middle lane this usually happens by June 5-10). Holes with a diameter of 10 cm can be made in the film. This will reduce the risk of late blight infection.
After 10 days, we water the seedlings and at the same time plant a new one in the place of the deceased. The first hilling when growing tomatoes in the open field can be done two weeks after planting the seedlings.
In the future, we will huddle the plants as they grow.
How to tie tomatoes
Place pegs 50-80 cm high above the rows with planted tomatoes (depending on the growth of the bush).
The pegs are placed on north side, retreating from the stem about 10 cm. We will tie each bush to them with a washcloth or twine.
Plants begin to tie up when they have 4-5 true leaves. In total, 3-4 garters are produced during the growth period of a tomato.
Plants are tied up only under a brush with fruits. This allows them to be well lit and receive more heat and sunshine, which speeds up and increases yields.
The fruits, not in contact with the ground, are less susceptible to pest attacks and are better protected from diseases.
Tapestry method
For medium-sized plants, large-fruited and richly fruiting, it is best to use trellises, not garters.
This method of growing tomatoes in the open field makes it easier to care for the plant, harvest, and also lengthen the fruiting period of tomatoes. Plants are less likely to develop fungal infections. This method allows you to more effectively use a plot of the garden (especially when it is small in size).
To do this, install pillars about 1.2-1.5 m high in the rows (the more often the posts are driven in, the stronger the structure will be).
Drive carnations onto the posts every 20-25 cm. Attach horizontal slats to them with twine or wire.
When the tomato seedlings start to grow (this will happen two weeks after planting), gently tie the brush of the plant to the slats with a soft twine or cord. Continue tying them as they grow, every 15-20 cm.
- This method is ideal for growing tall tomatoes in greenhouses (we will tell you more about caring for greenhouse giants in another article).
With the trellis method, further care for the plants will be very simple: timely tying of fruiting shoots and their stepchildren to the slats.
Care when growing tomatoes in the open field
|
Operation |
How often to do |
Advice |
| Grassing tomatoes (or shaping) | Delete side shoots it is necessary constantly, starting with early age plants. By the time the fruit ripens, there should be no stepsons. | They must be removed before the shoots reach 3-5 cm in length. It is best to do this in the morning. In the southern, sunny regions, you can not completely remove the stepsons, just do not tie them up. But in the north, this operation is required (leave only 2-3 stems for each bush). In extreme heat, this procedure cannot be carried out. |
| Top dressing tomato | Once every 10 days. The first time we feed tomatoes two weeks after planting. | The first feeding with a solution of mullein (1x10) or chicken manure (1x20). We make repeated dressings with mineral fertilizers (nitrofoska 60g + water 10l). Quantity: before flowering, 1 liter for each bush, after flowering for 2-5 liters. |
| Watering tomatoes | Abundant, but rare watering. | Water the tomatoes once a week in spring and early summer. Into the warm summer time limit yourself to one watering every 2-3 days. Water the root bushes in the evening. |
| Spraying | We spray every week, alternating the compositions of the liquid. First spraying immediately after planting in open ground (Bordeaux liquid). | Alternate between Bordeaux liquid and homemade onion tincture. |
How to pinch tomatoes. When removing the stepsons, do not pull them out, but gently break them out, clasping the index and thumb... Pull gently to the side and break off.
If they have grown too large - cut sharp knife or a razor. First of all, get rid of the stepchildren growing under the brushes (otherwise the tomato can shed the ovary).
For better harvest when growing tomatoes in the open field, at the end of summer, pinch the tops of all shoots with fruits.
Also remove excess flower brushes where the fruit has failed to form.
Preparation of Bordeaux liquid. In the water we extinguish quicklime(100 g) and add water (about 5 l). In another container, dissolve in a small amount of hot water copper sulfate(100 g) and add 5 liters of water.
Then pour the vitriol solution into the slaked lime. The correct liquid will have a sky blue tint.
Just in case, measure the alkaline reaction with an indicator (Bordeaux liquid should be neutral or slightly alkaline).
- Any iron objects can be used to check. If the metal is covered with a layer of copper, you made a solution that is too acidic. More lime needs to be added. But do not overdo it, otherwise the liquid will lose its beneficial qualities.
Preparation of onion tincture. Grind onion-turnip and garlic (100 g each) with a meat grinder. Transfer the mixture to a 3-liter glass container and fill it ¾ with water. We close and insist for 3 days.
Shake it periodically. At the same time, pour bird droppings (200 g) in a plastic bucket with water and set to infuse. Both mixtures are mixed and filtered before use.
For top dressing when growing tomatoes in the open field, it is useful to use fermented nettle and ash.
Also, feed the plants with microelements a couple of times in the fruiting season (crush 5 tablets and stir them in ½ l of water, then add another 10 l of water). Consumption of 1 liter for each bush.
Banana fertilizer. We are preparing a natural, very healthy top dressing, enriched with calcium and phosphorus. This remedy is made from banana peels.
- Cover the oven tray with food foil. Put banana peels on top outside down (so it doesn't stick). Place the tray in the oven.
- After roasting and cooling it, grind the peel into flour and place it in an airtight bag.
Sprinkle banana flour on the soil near the plant roots once every two weeks.
To get an excellent harvest of tomatoes, you need to do more than just water and feed them correctly. They need pollination.
Pollination of tomatoes
Tomato is a self-pollinating plant. When growing tomatoes outdoors, these plants create a lot of high-quality pollen, which is also enough for neighboring flowers.
To help with pollination, attract insect helpers (bees, bumblebees).
To do this, plant bright annual melliferous plants between the tomatoes: rapeseed, coriander, basil and mustard. By the way, these crops also improve the taste of the fruits themselves.
But it is not always possible for a tomato to self-pollinate. There can be many reasons:
- Lowering the temperature at night (below + 13 ° C). Under such conditions, the deformation of the anther occurs.
- The daytime temperature is too high (above + 30-35 ° С). In the heat, the flowers fall off, and the pollen grains die.
- Features of the structure of the pistil of some large-fruited varieties(it protrudes outward and the pollen does not fall on the stamens). Or the pistil is too wide.
In such cases, we need to help our tomatoes to pollinate. You can tilt down the buds with a protruding pistil and shake the flower slightly. Or it is easy to knock on a trellis or a flowering brush.
- The best time for artificial pollination is 10-14 hours, at a temperature of + 22-27 ° C. The ideal air humidity is not more than 70%. Repeat the pollination procedure after 4 days.
Immediately after pollination, water the tomatoes or spray over the flower (so that the pollen sticks to the pistil). The last flowers to appear are usually empty and underdeveloped. It is better to remove them immediately.
Secrets of growing tomatoes. An amazing tomato has one peculiarity - it is completely unpretentious.
And it can bear fruit even if your care is limited only to watering and weeding.
But the tomato is very responsive. And the more carefully you take care of the plants, the more harvest they will give you.
But don't overdo it in your quest to please him. Golden Rule for growing tomatoes - everything is good in moderation!
Caring for tomatoes should be within reasonable, competent limits!
Now, my dear friends, you know how to grow our precious tomatoes outdoors. Next, we have to learn about growing tomatoes and about possible difficulties() when growing them.
And I also suggest watching a short video with several useful tips for growing tomatoes.
See you soon, dear friends!
Tomato is one of the most popular vegetables on dining table... And being in the garden, he loves the sun's rays, is not friendly with the wind and excessive rains. To grow it, you need to fulfill certain conditions and then red and juicy homemade tomatoes will replenish stocks again. Also red-cheeked whimsical to the choice of a neighbor. They are great friends with carrots, onions and cucumbers, but they absolutely do not want to keep in touch with eggplants, potatoes and peppers.
How to grow tomatoes outdoors - soil preparation
Ground with an acidity of 6.0 to 7.0 is important for tomatoes. The level is measured with a special pH test. If the value is low, then 0.5-0.8 kg of lime per 1 sq.m. is added to the soil. With an increase - sulfur in the same quantities.
How to grow tomatoes outdoors - timely watering
Tomatoes are watered abundantly and rarely. In spring and summer, while the weather conditions are not so hot, they irrigate once a week. When a solid warmth comes, the breaks are reduced to 2-3 times. Pour water correctly at the root. Better in the evenings after sunset. 
How to grow tomatoes outdoors - planting seedlings
A hole 10-15 cm deep is dug, watered with water and fertilized with minerals mixed with humus (1: 3). The plant is taken out of the box, the leaves are cut off, leaving 3 pcs. on top to stimulate growth. Moisturizing will help to remove the seedlings from the box. The root is planted in a hole along with an earthen clod, sprinkled with compost, dry soil and trampled tightly. The ground is mulched with a layer of straw 10 cm. The time for the development of tomatoes is about 10 days without watering. In case of temperature changes, use a film with 5 cm holes, which is covered with a bush. After 10 preparatory days, the seedlings are watered or a new one is planted in the place of the deceased. 
How to grow tomatoes outdoors - bush garter
Tomatoes are tied for good development against rotting on contact with moist soil. Pegs are placed next to the bush, the height depends on full growth stem (about 50-80 cm). The pegs are driven in from the north at a distance of 10 cm from the plant. Tied up with a rope 3-4 times for the entire period. The whip is tightened under heavy branches. 
How to grow tomatoes outdoors - bush formation
It is also called pinching - from a very early age, lateral shoots are constantly removed. There should be no stepchildren by the time the tomatoes appear. They are removed in the morning when they reach a length of 3-5 cm. It is correct not to pull out, but to break out, cut off. Flower brushes in which the fruits have not formed are removed. 
How to grow tomatoes outdoors - top dressing
From the moment of landing, after 2 weeks, one call is made, and so 1 time in 10 days. The first feeding is mullein with water 1:10, or chicken droppings 1:20. The following dressings are made with mineral fertilizers, for example, 60 g of nitrophoska (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) with 10 liters of water. Before flowering, 1 liter is poured on each bush, after - 3-5 liters. 
How to Grow Tomatoes Outdoors - Fight Disease
The tomato is sprayed weekly and the solutions are changed each time. One week Bordeaux liquid, another - onion tincture.
For planting, it is good to choose proven varieties that are ideal for the area where they will be grown. Seedlings are suitable only with strong stems, without lethargy, signs of disease, and with a whole root system. The leaves are not yellow, but dark green, without traces of flowering, so as not to injure the tomato during transplantation. Most failures begin with the wrong choice of seedlings, you should be more careful with this process.
Senor Tomato is a positive hero of culinary creations, in contrast to the character of the famous cartoon. To enjoy the taste of a homemade vegetable, it is enough to know the peculiarities of the crop variety and a few rules for growing tomatoes.
Tomato, or tomato - annual or perennial of the Solanovy family. Until the 18th century, they did not eat it, considering the fruits of tomato poisonous. Tomatoes are rich in fiber, glucose, fructose and other elements. Tomatoes improve mood due to the presence of tyramine, which is converted into serotonin in the body. Eating tomatoes increases immunity, improves digestion, and lowers blood cholesterol levels. Types and varieties of tomatoes: characteristics and classificationDepending on the height of the plant, the ripening period of the fruit, there are three main varieties of tomatoes:
Determinant varieties
Semi-determinant varieties
Indeterminate
Due to the fact that indeterminate varieties yield crops only in warm climates and ripen later than determinant ones, it is impractical to plant them in open ground. The determinants are divided into:
Tomato varieties for open groundThe early varieties of tomatoes for open ground are all representatives of the determinant group. The advantage of this group of tomatoes is the full yield of the crop and ease of maintenance. The most famous undersized tomatoes for open ground are:
Standard grades are the most unpretentious look determinant undersized varieties for open ground. Many varieties have proven to be cold-hardy. Allocate the best varieties standard tomatoes for growing outdoors:
Stages of growing tomatoes in the open fieldExists whole line simple rules that will help to avoid loss of productivity and plant diseases. It is necessary to adhere to these rules even at the stage of autumn soil preparation for planting. Autumn soil preparationFeatures of compiling a good soil for growing tomatoes:
Choosing tomato seeds for open fieldImportant factors are determined for choosing a tomato variety:
Growing seedlings for planting tomatoes in open ground
Selection of purchased tomato seedlings for growing in the open fieldBasic rules for choosing seedlings for growing outdoors:
Spring soil preparation
Planting tomato seedlings in open ground
Tomato care
Watering tomatoes outdoors
Formation of tomatoes
FertilizationIn order not to harm the plants and own harvest tomatoes follow simple rules. Organic fertilizers
Mineral fertilizers
Fertilizer overdose
Harvesting and storage of crops
Photo of tomatoes in the open field
The main diseases of the tomato in the open field
Growing tomatoes in the open field is painstaking, but not difficult. The main thing is to follow simple rules and know the laws of nature. And then she will give you a generous harvest of this delicious fruit. |
