Today, they no longer go for water for a bath with rockers and buckets. Modern buildings have automated delivery systems that allow you to consume the required amount of hot and cold all year round. How to organize such a system, we will tell in our article.
Content:
Proper water supply is a clean flow of water at a comfortable and constant pressure, designed to heat it. The presence of water is an urgent issue, without it, neither hygiene nor health procedures in the steam room are inconceivable. It is not difficult to make water supply in the bath with your own hands. It is much more difficult to organize a source of water for him when there is none near the building.
Types of bath water supply
There are two main seasonal types of water supply to bath buildings, let's look at them.
The first, simplest type is the summer supply of bath water. This system is designed to operate only during the warm season. Water is delivered, in addition to the bath, to other buildings located on the site. The system is built in series, when, if necessary, its branches are connected to the supply water pipe to distribute water to all its consumers. When cold weather sets in, water is removed from the summer system by gravity to its lowest point through the drain valve.
The second type is the winter version of water supply. Its difference from the summer water supply lies in the possibility of general and selective water supply to a particular building. In addition, the pipeline is equipped with a heating cable installed in its cavity, and a valve for supplying or shutting off water in the selected room. The cable prevents freezing of water in cold sections of the water main. To take a steam bath in the bath, it is enough to open the water supply for it by turning the shut-off valve. At the end of the procedures, the pipeline is blocked in the same way, and the water from the system is removed by gravity into the sewer network.
For the water supply of the bath in winter, there is also an electronic option for controlling the distribution of water flows through the piping system. Water supply to the buildings is carried out remotely using a distribution block, which is installed near the water source and is controlled by pressing the necessary keys from the buildings connected to the system.
Bath water sources
Depending on the source of water, the bath water supply may have the following options: from a well, from a well, from rainwater storage tanks, from the central water supply system of the house.
Bath water supply from a well
Quite often, this option for providing a bath with water seems to be the only possible one, but some of its disadvantages should be taken into account:
- Sudden changes in water levels, depending on the weather or season, so during the dry season, well resources may not be enough.
- Well water usually contains suspended particles, since its natural filtration during rains or floods may not be able to cope with its task.
- In winter, the head of the well requires insulation, otherwise there is a high probability of water freezing in it.
Advice! To reduce noise during operation of the pump, you can equip it with a receiver for 50 liters of water, this will help equalize and maintain pressure in the system, which is of no small importance for heating water in the bath.
Bath water supply from a well
When choosing a bath water supply from a well to a source, it is necessary to place a pump that will pump water into a storage tank as it is consumed.
Wells for water are of two types:
- sand wells. Their service life is from 5 to 15 years, it depends on the volume of the aquifer and the rate of water consumption. The average depth of the wells is 10-25 m. One well produces about 1 m 3 of water per hour. With temporary seasonal use, it gradually silts up.
- Artesian wells. Their water is of high quality, almost does not require filtration and is extracted from a depth of more than 30 m. The arrangement of an artesian well is very laborious and costly, but for 50 years one can not remember the problems of water supply.
Important! Drilling and equipping artesian wells is more expensive than sandy ones. They require permission from the environmental authorities.
Bath water supply with rainwater
The main vulnerability of this option is dependence on natural vagaries. The basis of the rainwater supply system consists of two elements:
- Storage tank made of environmentally friendly material;
- Wiring - ordinary water pipes designed to deliver water to the bath.
Bath water supply from the central water supply system of the house
This is the simplest version of the bath water supply system, which does not require the search and arrangement of water sources. When a bath is located on a territory with an operating water supply, you need to obtain permission from the owner, make a tie-in to the house, bring pipes to your building, make their internal wiring and connect plumbing fixtures.
Materials for bath water supply
To transport water to the bath from any source, pipes are required, which are made of various materials:
- Polypropylene pipes. They are indispensable when installing the external water supply of the bath. Such products are elastic, which allows them to bend during installation. Between themselves, the pipes are securely connected using special soldering.
- Metal-plastic pipes. They are most often used for internal plumbing in bath rooms.
- Steel pipes. For baths now they are rarely used due to their rapid corrosion.
- Copper pipes. They have excellent performance characteristics, but do not withstand competition in the market due to their high price.
Installation of the bath water supply system
After preparing the source of water supply for the bath, pipes are laid out and the corresponding equipment is connected to them indoors. Installation of the pipeline to the bath, used only in the summer, can be performed in simplified ways.
The water supply can be made on top of the ground and dealt with the onset of cold weather, as well as laid underground at a shallow depth to avoid mechanical damage by walking or garden carts. For winter water supply, pipes are laid below the freezing level of the soil and insulated.
External work must be done in the following order:
- A trench of the required depth is dug from the water source to the bath.
- At the bottom there is a sand cushion on which pipes must be laid.
- The products are connected to each other using special fittings.
- The pump is installed and connected.
- A water heater is installed.
- A pumping station is being set up in a convenient place specially designated for it.
- Water filters are installed.
- Installation and wiring of pipes in the bath is carried out according to the principle: first, vertical risers are installed, and then their horizontal branches.
- Plumbing fixtures are connected to the outlets of the pipes.
Upon completion of the installation, the water supply system is launched, tested and the identified deficiencies are eliminated.
Hot water bath
Any bath, even when it is operated in the summer, requires hot water. Before you make hot water in the bath, you need to choose one of its methods:
- Hot water in the bath is supplied from the house through the water pipe in any quantity and at any time. If the house has a well-organized hot water supply all year round, it will be rational to connect the bath to the general system.
- Offline way. It requires the installation of a water heater. Its type, type and brand must be chosen, taking into account the optimal energy sources for use. Storage heaters from Gorenje and Electrolux are practical and convenient. They require only one reliable outlet. Such heaters compete with similar flow devices, but for full-fledged operation, especially in winter, flow heaters must have the appropriate power and use a three-phase connection.
- Hot water supply can be carried out using electric, gas boilers, which are flow and accumulative.
- Hot water can be obtained by heating it in a tank from a stove-heater.
That's all science! If desired, and if there is time, the water supply of the bath can be done independently. Surely, clean water of any temperature will delight your household.
The main problem of water supply in the bath is its supply to the room. Heating is carried out using a boiler, cleaning - filters. The flow of liquid must be properly arranged so that there is a normal pressure, there is no freezing in winter. It is worth familiarizing yourself with to equip everything with your own hands if necessary. Plumbing in the bath will have to be installed in any case. It is important to choose a type that is suitable for the given operating conditions and convenient for users.
Bath water sources
When designing a bath, it is important to figure out which water supply, type of system to use best. There are the following ways to supply liquid:
- From the well.
- Conducting plumbing.
- Well drilling.
The simplest option is to conduct a centralized water supply, such as is installed in a dwelling. Here you will need to obtain permission from the service that supplies liquid to the house, and then perform the following steps:
- Do-it-yourself installation of pipes in the bath, install the necessary equipment.
- Deal with the water supply system in the area where it is planned to carry out water.
- Run a pipe from the central water channel to the bathhouse, connect the equipment.
- Turn on the system.
Well water
The well was used to supply water to the bath in winter and summer most often. If possible, you can dig a separate recess specifically for the structure, or use an existing one. It will cost a little, but this method is distinguished by reliability and simplicity. This type of liquid supply scheme also has negative sides:
- During rains or floods, if the liquid is shallow, it may be dirty.
- The liquid level is not constant, fluctuations are possible.
The walls of the well are best constructed from concrete rings. Fastenings - in grooves, so that when groundwater and the earth itself move, they do not bend. It is imperative to make additional sealing of the joints so that the water is not contaminated due to the sprinkling of earth outside the rings. The bottom should be covered with rubble, laid with geotextiles. Thus, a good filter will come out so that the liquid is at least partially purified.
Well for water supply
Wells can be conditionally divided into the following types:
- Sandy. They are made at a depth of up to 30 meters. Water can be clogged with sand, so mandatory installation of filters is necessary. You can do it quickly and not very expensive. The disadvantage is that over time, the liquid will flow with more and more silt, the water may run out, since it is impossible to predict how much of it is on a given layer.
- Artesian. They are dug deep, reaching clear waters at a depth of 30-300 m. It will be very expensive to set up a water supply system with such a source of liquid, and special drilling equipment will be required. Injection equipment is not required, as the water will flow under pressure. The liquid is very clean, which is its advantage, there is no silt, impurities. You can take as much water as you like, it is unlikely to run out.
Rules for the installation of water supply
Bath water supply consists of several stages. First you need to choose the right pump for pumping fluid. In any case, even if water is supplied from a well, whether the well is broken, equipment is needed for normal and constant pressure. You can use installations that are immersed in water, or installed separately. The type of device used depends on the depth of the liquid. Winter water supply to any bath is carried out in such a way that it does not freeze during severe frosts.
Water will be supplied from any source through the outlet pipe. It is a mandatory requirement that the pipe enter wells or other sources below the freezing depth of the soil so that the liquid can circulate all year round. The entry point must be securely sealed. So that the pump does not turn on every time the tap is opened in the bath, it is recommended to install a small tank where water will accumulate. Thus, it is possible to stabilize the pressure in the system, to facilitate the operation of the mechanism.
How to choose pipes
If necessary, plastic pipes can be installed simultaneously with metal pipes. Pipes are one of the main parts for fluid supply, so you need to choose them correctly. If the hot room functions all year round, it will be more difficult to organize the system than if it were used only in warm weather. The layout of the water supply in the bath should be carried out taking into account the consumption of all consumers in the room.
To connect the pump, use a pipe with a diameter of about 30 mm. The rest of the system can be used with water channels up to 25 mm. You can use plastic products. Rubber seals must be used to connect them. In cold conditions, they will need to be replaced frequently, therefore, it is recommended to use polymeric materials outdoors. They are easily bent, suitable for work both in the ground and on the bath itself. Sewerage should be done in such a way that it does not freeze in winter. That is, the channel should run as low as possible below ground level.
The optimal material for laying water is polypropylene. To assemble a system with such components, a special heating element is required, which will serve to hermetically collect the components. You can use other pipes, reinforced, with a sheath in the form of a foil, but it is not advisable to use them at a cost.
Heating element selection
If the bath is close to the house, you can consider the option of supplying hot water from the boiler from the dwelling. The pipe must be reliably insulated so that the liquid does not have time to freeze. But basically, the water supply is made separate from the house. For this, an oven is installed. There are many types of stoves, but more often wood-burning stoves are used in baths, as they are the most productive in this place.
A tank must be installed inside the furnace, which should be lined with bricks. The liquid will remain warm for a long time. You can use more modern methods of heating water: storage heaters, boilers. Water pipes in the bath in winter, even without heating, should not freeze. This is important to consider when building channels. 
If there is only one water supply system in the house and bath, there are no difficulties with the supply of liquid. But when using individual devices, there are a few things to be aware of. Pipes for water supply must be buried at least 1.5-2 meters so that the channel does not freeze, moving away from the source of liquid. It is necessary to overlay them with moisture-resistant materials so that there is insulation. So that the cold does not freeze the pipe, you can lay them on a thermal insulating pillow around. Then everything is buried in the ground.
If the bath is not heated after washing, it is necessary to ensure that the liquid is drained from the system in winter. The temperature will drop, the water, if it remains in the pipes, will definitely freeze. This can lead to cracks, inoperability of the system. In the sink, equipment is installed that is suitable for this type of water supply and will be convenient for the owners.
It is difficult to imagine a country house without a bath or sauna. Relax, take a steam bath from the heart, relieve fatigue or use the bathhouse as a temporary home during the construction of the main house - there are many options for use. It is not surprising that interest in the topic is growing among FORUMHOUSE users from year to year.
Our portal has already told in detail where to place it on the site, how to finish the steam room. We continue the topic. From our material you will learn:
- What engineering communications are needed.
- How to install a simple and budget plumbing.
- What are the nuances to consider when installing electricians.
The nuances of installation and selection of utilities in the bath
Without properly constructed communications - water supply (option - we carry water from a well, we do not consider it), electricity, ventilation, sewage and sanitation, normal use of the bath is impossible. At the same time, due to the peculiarities of the operating mode of a bath or sauna, and this is high humidity and temperature, special requirements are imposed on engineering networks for safety of use and durability.
In addition, even at the design stage, it is necessary to decide whether the bath will be a separate structure, or we will limit ourselves to building a simple sauna inside the house.
Practice shows that most often a bath is built in the form of a separate washing and bathing complex. There are both options for relatively simple baths / saunas, as well as complex and expensive facilities (with a SPA area and a swimming pool) used for recreation and entertainment.
Regardless of the option for using the bath, we remember the main rule: first a project is made (based on the preferences of the owner and the expected mode of operation of the “wet” room).
Now we calculate the required volume of water consumption, and also determine the required number of water points. This is a shower or shower stall, a sink with a mixer, a washing machine connection point, a toilet bowl supply, a storage tank, etc.
If an electric heater is supposed to be the heat source, we calculate whether the electrical network will withstand the additional load. Do not forget about the water heater for preparing hot water, and this is also an additional load on the power grid.
We think in advance how to supply electricity (underground or air) and water to the bathhouse. Is the flow rate of the well sufficient, how to dispose of wastewater, will the septic tank cope with the mass discharge of water, or is it necessary to design the separation of wastewater, etc.
Only after collecting all the necessary data and estimating the approximate number of people who will use the bath, you can proceed to the design of engineering networks and the direct construction of the bath.
Such an approach - careful planning, will avoid costly rework in the future, when the bath / sauna has already been built. For example, it turns out that the electrical wiring and machines do not pull the connected electrical equipment, there are not enough points for, and the pump power is not enough to quickly fill the font or pool with water.
There are many features, for each of them you can write a separate article. For those wishing to find answers to the above questions, we recommend reading the articles: and observe all boundaries from the treatment plant to other objects on the site, and.
Move on. Take, for example, the usual "budget" bath - a wooden structure made of timber or logs. It is necessary to mount a water supply system and conduct an electrician in it. It is required to understand: what basic moments pay attention to equip high-quality engineering communications.
Installation of plumbing in the bath
The first thing to think about when designing a water pipe in a bath is its mode of operation - year-round or seasonal. If the bath is not planned to be used in winter, or it is supposed to be launched only on weekends, it is necessary to ensure that water is drained from pipes and plumbing (for example, a toilet bowl). If this is not done, then at negative temperatures the water will freeze and can break the pipes.
Our users solve this problem in different ways.
Kolek2575 Member of FORUMHOUSE
I plan to put a stove with a water heat exchanger on the pipe in the bathhouse. Frosts at us reach - 30 °C. Haven't decided what to do with the water yet. Leave it, break it. Drain every time?
According to experienced participants, there can be two options: either drain the water, or prevent the bath from freezing. For example, on the advice dokainfo, We use a self-regulating heating cable.
After the completion of the bath procedures, the water is drained from the heating tank and the shower cabin. In order for the water to drain freely into the well, we put a check valve on the submersible pump.
When installing such a system, we provide for the necessary slopes of the pipes so that the water flows freely by gravity.
But the heating cable is an additional complexity during installation. Power outages are also possible. If a pumping station is used to create pressure in the water supply system, then the accumulator becomes a bottleneck. From it, with infrequent visits to the bathhouse in winter, you will also have to drain the water or completely dismantle the station and store it in a warm room.
The methods of bath water supply, which are used by users of our portal in the winter, are interesting.
Sanap FORUMHOUSE User
In summer, I use a pumping station to provide the bathhouse with water + an electric water heater is installed. As soon as the temperature drops below zero, I drain all the water from the water supply, and in winter I use imported water to operate the bath. For 2-3 people, 50-70 liters is enough to wash. For contrasting procedures, we wipe ourselves with snow.
Also interesting is the user experience with the nickname 8k84r. The water supply of the bath is done like this - water from the well is pumped by a submersible pump. Above the steam room, in a heated room, a hydraulic accumulator is mounted, as well as an electric storage boiler for heating water in summer. Plus an open system with a tank, fed from a hydraulic accumulator.
When leaving, all taps open and the water drains into the sewer. Turn off the pump, air the pump line. It all takes about 5 minutes. Arriving, we flood the bathhouse, close the taps and turn on the power to the pump.
For clarity, we offer a diagram of the water supply system of the bath from Putnik2008.
Note: for heating water, a copper pipe is used, bent into a spiral, which was laid on the stones of an electric heater.
A 30 l canister is used as a storage tank.
Putnik2008 FORUMHOUSE User
Also, for a simple bath plumbing scheme, you can mount a capacity of 200 liters in the “attic”, which will provide sufficient water pressure when the tap is opened, or to wash in the shower. After completing the bath procedures, we leave the tap open for 15 minutes, while the water drains back into the well by gravity, but such a Spartan system, of course, is not suitable for everyone.
The bottleneck of the gravity system, with irregular use of the bath in winter, may be the depth of freezing, which depends on the region. To prevent freezing of the pipeline, it is laid below the freezing depth, a heating cable is used or insulated.
How to make a simple and effective winter plumbing that will not freeze at sub-zero temperatures and that does not require a heating cable is described in the article.
Features of the installation of electrical wiring in the bath
A complete bath water supply system is impossible without a reliable power supply to the pump, which provides the necessary water pressure in the water supply. In addition: lighting, electrical appliances used in the bath, water heaters, etc., must also be connected to the mains.
Moreover, unlike an ordinary house, a bath / sauna is a place with high humidity and temperatures, which means that special requirements are imposed on the electrical network to guarantee its safe operation.
T0lyanych FORUMHOUSE User
A bathhouse is a humid room, so the wiring in the bathhouse is carried out in accordance with the requirements of the Electrical Installation Code for saunas, bathrooms and showers.
Hence: in the steam room and in the washing room there should not be any electrical appliances such as a washing machine, sockets, junction boxes and switches. This equipment is located in the rest room, and a separate wire goes to each light bulb (in a splash-proof housing) in the steam room and washing room. If an electric heater is used for heating, then for its connection we use a solid cable coming from the switchboard located in the rest room or dressing room.
According to the EIC, paragraph 7.1.40. In saunas for zones 3 and 4 in accordance with GOST R 50571.12-96 "Electrical installations of buildings - Part 7. Requirements for special electrical installations - Section 703. In rooms containing sauna heaters", electrical wiring with a permissible insulation temperature of 170 ° C must be used.
We choose special ceiling lamps / lamps - sealed, designed for operation in a humid room. The seal between the base and the cover must be made of heat-resistant silicone, and not rubber, which can crumble under the influence of high temperature.
Degree of protection of the lamp IP54. A switchboard, all switches, sockets and pumping stations are installed in the rest room. In addition to preventing electric shock, this will help prevent premature equipment failure due to corrosion caused by moisture in the washroom.
T0lyanych
Do not forget about the device of a separate grounding near the bath, even if the main grounding is installed in the house.
This is the basics of installing electricians in the bath. Let's move on to practice. As experience shows, the greatest number of questions is the choice of an electric cable for a bath, the method of its wiring, as well as safe options for electric lighting of a washing room and a steam room.
Constantly the bathhouse is heated in rare cases. Therefore, an important issue that has to be decided is how to conduct plumbing in a bathhouse in winter so as not to freeze.
Plumbing in the country bath.
Simple winter water supply to the bath
Sometimes a water pipe is laid from the source to the bathhouse through the air. To use it in winter, the pipes are well insulated, but this does not guarantee that they will not freeze. A method is used when the highway is laid with a large slope in any direction. Hoses are not used for this - they sag, there is always a place where a little liquid remains. Pipes are used, which at one end are connected to the pump, the other is lowered into the storage tank.
The included pump pumps water into the tank. When it is turned off, the liquid flows by gravity into the well or tank, nothing remains in the pipes. No shut-off valves are installed on the pipeline. Pumping equipment must provide water drainage if the slope is in its direction. Vibration models have such properties. For others, a drain valve is mounted on the supply pipe. If water is taken from the well, it is insulated, a caisson is installed on the well.
Pipe laying in dry ground
If pipes are laid underground, take into account the level of soil water. If they are far away, the installation of an underground water supply to the bath does not cause difficulties. Pipes take polyethylene, other plastic or steel are not suitable. They dig a trench with a depth of at least 0.5 m. Even if the polyethylene pipe freezes, it is so elastic that it remains intact. To reliably protect against frost, they dig in 20-30 cm below the freezing level of the soil, insulate.
Laying pipes in a trench under the bath.
The vulnerable point of the water supply is metal taps and shackles used to connect individual branches of the system. Polyethylene pipes can be joined with couplings if water drains from the pipes. In an unheated room, steel couplings and spurs are refused. Butt-joined with a soldering iron, creating a continuous line. Cranes are taken classic from cast iron or other metal - they are not as sensitive to frost as ball valves.
Winter water pipe with valve
In regions with frosts greater than -20 ° C, a valve drain is arranged on the water supply in a bath without heating. This is done like this:
- A well is dug under the main pipe with a garden drill. Its depth is 0.5 m more than the level of freezing.
- An elbow made of the same plastic in the form of the letter U is soldered into the pipe above the well. A hole is drilled at its lowest point, a fitting is inserted.
- At the bottom of the well, a sand cushion is arranged. A hose is put on the fitting, its other end is covered with a geotextile cover. They should rest against the sand at the bottom of the well.
When they wash in the bath, part of the pressurized water goes through this valve into the soil. There is not much of it: if you use the bath all day - 1-2 buckets. When the inlet valve is closed, water flows through the drain elbow into the ground. Even if a mini-well is built on the street and the water starts to freeze, the pipes will not break. Expanding, the liquid pushes excess moisture into the soil.
Valve drain of water from the bath.
The only thing that should definitely be foreseen is the depth of the water reservoir. If it is close to the surface, this option is not used - underground aquifers will become contaminated.
Material for different parts of the plumbing in the bath
Long service life is the main requirement for pipes. They are laid underground - the replacement is difficult and unprofitable. The second requirement for the material is resistance to temperature changes. Plastic has these qualities. Polyethylene is more suitable for the underground part of the water supply. It retains its plasticity down to -50 ° C - such frosts do not occur at depth.
Polypropylene withstands up to 25 freezing and thawing without damage. It is possible that in a few years the external water supply from it will collapse. Polypropylene pipes are most suitable for indoor system. They are easy to solder, the connections are strong and durable. They are convenient to lay in hard-to-reach places.
Piping inside the bath
In the bath, which is heated occasionally, drain taps are provided in the internal wiring. Pipes from them lead to the sewer system.
It is important to provide drainage:
- from the storage tank;
- cold water from the boiler;
- from a heat exchanger connected to the hot water heater circuit.
The drain system uses the properties of the steam in the heat exchanger. When the firebox is turned off, increased pressure is created. The steam forces the liquid out of the water heater tank. Taps open, moisture flows into the sewer.
A drain valve is also installed at the input of the line. It can be located near the sewer or on the street. After it, internal wiring is performed. Any scheme is used - serial, parallel or mixed. The choice depends on which method of water supply will provide more opportunities to connect consumers with maximum compactness, use fewer pipes.
Points of consumption are placed, taking into account the interconnection of individual premises. The shower is arranged in a place where it is most convenient to bring cold and hot water, organize a drain into the sewer. Its remote location is an extra footage of pipes, problems with maintenance. In practice, the most convenient place for a shower is a room located close to the steam room.
The most common pipe connection schemes in the bath
To supply water to the bath, use the sources:
- centralized water supply line;
- a well in a summer cottage;
- well;
- internal domestic plumbing.
Scheme of piping inside the bath.
The intermittent heating of the bath room affects the features of connecting water supply to it and internal wiring. The most difficult thing is to connect to a centralized backbone. It is required to obtain permission, make a sidebar, involving specialists.
But later it turns into ease of maintenance of the system. Do-it-yourself connection to your own well, well or home water supply.
Summer plumbing by air can be used as a temporary option. To prevent communications from freezing, several methods of arranging water supply to the bath are used:
- Pipes are laid lower than the ground freezes.
- Provides a constant flow of water in the pipes.
- Drain the water from the system after visiting the bath.
- The pipes are heated with a special electric cable.
- The water pipe laid above the freezing point is reliably insulated.
Permanent heating is expensive. The heating cable during power outages will be ineffective. Constantly pumping water through the system is unprofitable in terms of electricity costs or payment to the water utility.
For a bath without constant heating, an acceptable option is to ensure a drain so that not a drop of moisture remains in the pipes, containers, fittings. External water supply is additionally insulated or laid below the ground freezing.
How to bring water to the bath from home or a centralized network
Plumbing from the house to the bath.
The central highway does not freeze. It has a constant flow of water, sometimes high-quality insulation. The water supply from it to the bathhouse is in different conditions. The same applies to the pipeline laid from the house. The advantage of water supply from a centralized main is that a constant pressure is maintained.
The bath room is built in such a place that the length of the water supply system is as short as possible. At the same time, sanitary and hygienic requirements and building codes are taken into account.
For tapping into the main highway, you need to obtain permission from the water utility, sanitation station, and order a project. After analyzing the technical capabilities, documents are issued, the water utility specialists perform a tie-in into the main pipe. Further work can be done independently. A counter must be installed.
The technical data provides information about the pressure in the line. Taking them into account, they buy equipment that is insensitive to pressure changes. The pressure may need to be increased. To do this, get a pump. The pressure of the water that comes from a residential building depends on the equipment available in it.
Scheme of connecting pipes to the bath and to the line
It is desirable to use flexible polyethylene pipes, which have increased resistance to freezing. If you take a bay of the required length, the number of connections is reduced to a minimum. Fittings and taps are the most vulnerable points of the pipeline. First of all, they freeze, lose their tightness. To protect them from the cold, they arrange an insulated well at the point of connection to the highway.
Constructed of brick, concrete rings. Provide reliable waterproofing and wall insulation. To do this, they are wrapped outside with roofing felt and moisture-resistant heat-insulating material. The trench is covered with earth. Before the construction of the well, a concrete cushion is arranged. These simple measures prevent the penetration of melt and groundwater into the well. From above close a cover with the hatch.
At the beginning of the domestic water supply, a tap is installed in the well to, if necessary, shut off the water supply. At the entrance to the bath, a drain valve is mounted at the lowest point. A well is also being built in this place, insulated. The bottom is not concreted, but a layer of rubble is poured so that the liquid goes into the soil. They are built 5 m from the foundation so that it does not erode and does not settle.
You can arrange a manhole next to the foundation, bury a sealed plastic container from below to collect liquid. To drain water from the system, act in the following order:
- block the pipeline at the inlet;
- open the drain valve in the room;
- descend into the drainage well, open the valve.
After that, the pressure in the system equalizes, the remaining moisture drains through the tap in the drainage well. There are few of them - about 10 liters.
Connecting the water supply from the house to the bath
If the sauna is no further than 7 m from the heated building, the plumbing is laid without much difficulty. Use polypropylene pipes for hot water. They are reinforced with foil, which retains heat well. They are connected in the house to a boiler, gas column or other hot water supply device. Water at this distance cools slightly.
Connection to the centralized water supply.
Can be connected to domestic cold water system. In this case, a special electric cable for heating is mounted on the couplings. The pipeline is laid on a sand cushion in a trench. The main line is additionally protected from frost with polypropylene thermal insulation, covered with expanded clay, covered with earth.
At a distance to the steam room of more than 7 m, heating is arranged. A self-regulating electrical cable is used, which is wound over the foil. They put on a heat-insulating stocking, put it in a trench. For safe operation of the heating cable, a circuit breaker is included in the circuit.
Water supply is organized using a pump lowered into the mine. At a distance from the surface, which exceeds the depth of freezing of the soil by 0.5 m, a hole is punched in the wall in order to lead a pipe through it into the trench. In parallel, a power cable for the pump is laid in a corrugated sleeve.
It is important to ensure that the water in the well does not freeze. If the water mirror is at a great depth, they build a house above the head - this is enough to maintain a positive temperature in the source. The insulated cover will protect from freezing if there are difficulties with the construction of the house.
For shallow wells, additional measures are needed. They freeze through the walls, so they arrange external thermal insulation. Moisture-resistant materials are used - polystyrene foam, polystyrene, foamed polyurethane. It is enough to insulate the head, sew up with boards. If the water is at a depth of 2-3 m, the first well ring in the ground is insulated. They dig a trench around, wrap it with sheets of heat-insulating material, or fill up with expanded clay. From above they cover with clay soil.
Connecting the water supply from the well to the bath.
Arrangement of water supply from a well to a bath
For winter water supply, the baths are insulated. Build a caisson of brick or other materials. He needs a solid concrete base with waterproofing. The walls are also coated with bitumen or coated on the outside with roofing material. Such measures will protect the building from flooding. In depth, the caisson is located below the freezing soil, and the width should provide space so that a person can freely fit there to service the well.
The building is being insulated. Since it is in the ground, frost protection is only needed from above. Install a double hatch with insulation. If the local climatic conditions are harsh, thermal insulation of the walls from the outside will not interfere.
A drain cock is installed on the supply pipe. From it goes a short knee into the mine. To drain the moisture from the bath, the valve is opened for 10 minutes, then closed.
There are several ways to organize the water supply of a bath from a well. They have different levels of complexity, cost and provide different degrees of comfort. But all of them have one thing in common: since baths are usually used not constantly, but periodically, the entire water supply system must be protected from freezing in winter. There are only two solutions: either ensure a constant positive temperature (heat the bath all the time) or make sure that there is nothing to freeze in pipes and other devices, i.e. ensure that water is drained from the system and devices.
The organization of water supply for baths and cottages can be done in different ways. There are very simple options that require a minimum of funds and time to organize, there are more complex ones, but providing a greater level of comfort.
The easiest and most economical way
The simplest option is to lower the submersible pump into the well (without a check valve), run the pipes through the air, but so that they are not horizontal, but have a slope either towards the well or towards the bath. Important: throughout this pipeline there should be no taps or other locking devices.
When turned on, the pump pumps water. While the water rises through the pipes and reaches the building, some time passes (depending on the depth of the water mirror and the distance to it, the pump power). When the container (bucket or tank) is almost full, the pump is turned off. The water remaining in the pipes partially flows into the tank, partially back into the well.
This system provides minimal convenience, but it is very simple and functions without failure even in winter. All that is needed for its performance in the winter is, which you can do yourself, spending a little time, money and effort.
With cantilever pump
There is a more complex scheme, but also not particularly expensive, but providing a higher level of comfort. It uses a cantilever pump.
In the diagram, it is installed in a bathhouse (or in a cottage in the country), and wiring is already coming from it. Such a water supply scheme from a well will be good, provided that the water level in the well is not lower than 5 meters and the water arrives well enough. With a greater depth, you will have to be smart - fill the suction water supply with water to the level of the cantilever pump, which will create better conditions for its operation and water will be able to flow from a depth of up to 7 meters.
To ensure the operability of such a water supply system in winter, it is necessary to insulate the canopy for the well. The exit of the pipe from the well (sealed) must be done below the level to which the soil freezes in winter in your area. At the same level, lead the pipeline to the place of entry into the room and there already raise it to the pump.
To prevent freezing of pipes in case of abnormal cold and freezing of the soil below the average, it is better to wrap them with heat-insulating materials or lay them deeper than the freezing point. Both options have their drawbacks: you either need to dig deeper than 1.5 meters (the usual freezing depth for the middle lane), which you don’t really want, or spend money on heat-insulating and waterproofing materials.
One of the options for maintaining the temperature of the pipeline in winter is to use a heating electric cable, but in this case you must have a guaranteed power source, which, alas, is not always realistic for rural areas. Costs are costs, but changing the entire pipeline after the winter is much worse. So one of the measures it is desirable to take after all.
With a storage tank in the attic
One of the varieties of such a scheme provides for the installation of a storage tank for water in the attic, in the attic, etc. This option is good because by pumping water into the tank, you can turn off the pump, and the water will flow into the comb by gravity. But in order to prevent water from freezing in pipes or in a tank in winter in an unheated room, you need to make a pipe to drain the water. It is desirable to bring it back into the well, well, or into the sewer system - as you decide for yourself. In this option, it will be necessary to think over everything well so that the amount of water in the valve pipes is minimal.
With water-air tank, hydraulic accumulator and control system
For those who do not want to endure absolutely no restrictions in terms of comfort, there are more complex schemes using modern equipment. This . They maintain constant pressure in the system, they can lift water from any depth, the main thing is to choose the right pump. Moreover, these systems can also pump water from a centralized water supply system, which is necessary if the system is worn out and the pressure in the network is low.
Scheme of water supply from a well with a hydraulic accumulator 
What pipes to use for water supply from a well
When organizing water supply for summer cottages and baths, it is important to choose the right pipes. They should be:
- Safe, especially if you use the water for drinking.
- They are durable, since most of the pipeline is laid below the freezing level of the soil, the replacement entails a large amount of work.
- They tolerated temperature fluctuations well.
- Easy to install and repair.
Previously, only metal pipes were used. There were no other options. But they, firstly, quickly rust, and secondly, installation and replacement are possible only with a welding machine. Today there are other options.
Polypropylene pipes for water supply
In order for the water supply system to serve for a long time and properly, the best option for summer cottages and baths is polypropylene pipes. They feel great at low temperatures, when they are connected, rubber or other gaskets are not used, which eventually lose elasticity and require replacement. They do not emit any harmful substances, do not rot and do not oxidize, are not damaged by fungi and microorganisms, the manufacturers claim a service life of about 50 years.
But. Polypropylene pipes require special welding equipment. A special soldering iron is used to heat the pipe. When heated, it is quickly connected to an angle, a tee, a tap, etc. Important: when welding, do not make any rotational movements. This is especially true for reinforced pipes. After connecting, give a couple of minutes to cool and you can continue to assemble the water pipe further. The device is not very expensive, and it is not necessary to buy it. In almost any company selling polypropylene pipes, you can rent a soldering iron for polypropylene.
Another good thing about polypropylene pipes is that they are available for both cold and hot water. That is, the internal wiring of the water comb in the room can also be made from the same material. Another plus: a flat and smooth outer surface, which is easy to care for and does not need to be painted.
Polyethylene
To supply cold water (it cannot be used for hot water), HDPE pipes are often used - low-pressure polyethylene. They have practically the same characteristics as polypropylene (they are not afraid of frost, do not rot and are not affected by fungi, but at the same time they are environmentally friendly), but they have one big plus: they can not only be welded, but also use detachable fittings. It is much more convenient, does not require special equipment, and repair / replacement becomes easier. How to connect HDPE pipes, see the video.
But, on the other hand, detachable fittings are a high probability of leakage. Therefore, they try to plan the pipeline in such a way that all collapsible fittings are in accessible places, and not underground.
Insulation and pressure compensation
When laying pipes (polyethylene or polypropylene - it does not matter), it is advisable to take measures to compensate for ground pressure. If your soils are heaving, this is a must. It is necessary to lay the pipe (preferably with insulation, but you can also without it) in a corrugated hose of a larger diameter. It will, firstly, serve as thermal insulation, and secondly, protect against excessive pressure.
There is also a tubular insulation "Energoflex", using which you can solve the issue of thermal insulation in one fell swoop and protect pipes from excessive loads.
Insulation for water pipes "Energoflex" Recommendation based on personal experience: buy pipes and all corners-tees-faucets in one place, preferably located near the house / bathhouse. Why? Because it is rarely possible even for professionals to ideally calculate the entire scheme at once, so during the installation process you will have to buy, change, return something more than once, and sometimes not twice. Therefore, immediately upon purchase, find out how and what you can / need to do to exchange and return parts of the plumbing system.
Well thermal insulation
It is not very difficult to prevent the freezing of the water mirror - the water in the depth always has positive temperatures and all that is required is to prevent the cold from coming in from the outside. The thermal insulation of the well includes two components - the insulation of the mine and the installation of a protective house on the surface.
Do-it-yourself insulation of a concrete well
To insulate the well from the outside, you need to choose a material that does not absorb water. Usually polystyrene or polystyrene is used. These materials are inexpensive, durable and chemically neutral. Although there is one “but” - they are afraid of ultraviolet radiation - they are destroyed under its influence. This problem is easily solved: a house for a well is built around the insulation, or the material is lined with a finishing material outside.
A simpler and faster option is to apply paint to polystyrene or polystyrene in two layers. In this case, acetone paints should not be used: they corrode these materials. If the well is round, you can use polystyrene "shell" - products of a semicircular shape. It remains only to choose the appropriate diameter, connect the parts of the shell, and glue the joint with reinforced tape. If there is no such “shell” of a suitable size, polystyrene / polystyrene sheets can be cut into strips, and they are already attached to the well rings.
Thermal insulation of the walls of the well with polystyrene foam: at the top is the finished "shell", at the bottom - slab material cut into pieces Thermal insulation material should be laid slightly below the freezing level of the soil in your area. To do this, they dig a well to a predetermined depth, install protection, fix it with tape or any other fasteners that you come up with. It is possible to protect against the effects of water, a couple of times wrap the entire structure over the insulation with plastic wrap (you can also fix it with tape). Next, you need to either build a wooden house for the well, or lay finishing materials - your choice.
There is another option for insulating the well - foamed polyurethane foam. This mixture is applied at a positive temperature (from +20 o C to +30 o C) using a special device. This mixture is inexpensive, as are the services for its application, but it has the advantage that the material fills all the cracks and defects in concrete rings, extending their service life. The disadvantage of such a material is the unpresentable appearance of the treated surface, but this is eliminated by exterior decoration or building a house for a well.
Cover / house for a well
Regardless of the complexity of the water supply system that you will install in your bath, the well must be equipped with a warm house, or at least an insulated cover. This is necessary, firstly, to prevent dust / dirt / leaves, etc. from entering the well, and secondly, so that the water does not freeze in severe frosts. Wooden wells do not need insulation - wood itself serves as an excellent heat insulator, but wells made of concrete rings need to be insulated.
In order to maintain a positive temperature in the well, some craftsmen lower a boiler equipped with a thermostat, which is set to operate at + 1 ° C, into the water. At this temperature, the boiler turns on, heats the upper layers of water and turns off. But such a scheme is real with a guaranteed power supply. Interruptions in electricity for 5-8 hours in cold weather, and that's it, the water will freeze.
It is more troublesome, but also more reliable - during construction, insulate the rings of the well from the outside, to the depth of freezing of the soil or slightly lower (just in case) and build a well-insulated house for the well on top.
There are two types of houses:
Cover for a well made of wood It is also made of wood - while the board is taken quite thick (about 50 mm). It is even easier to build a cover for a well with your own hands than a house. The outer part can be square or round. Choose the dimensions to your taste, but they must exceed the diameter of the well.
The cover usually consists of two perpendicular (at 90 °) stacked layers of boards. The inner part must exactly match the shape and size of the well ring and fit tightly into it, blocking access to cold air.
Often, in order not to raise and lower it every time you need a bucket of water, a hinged door is made in the lid (the door should recline completely - it’s more convenient).
A canopy, a cover for a well and external insulation with a finish - a good protection against frost It is possible, in addition to the cover, to make a canopy for the well. So the building becomes even more attractive, and the roof, albeit a small one, protects both the well and the one who collects water from precipitation or sunlight in the heat.
conclusions
Building a well near the bath is half the battle. It is also necessary to competently bring water from it to the bathhouse and insulate the well to prevent the formation of an ice plug in the winter.