The main purpose of my walk-behind tractor - inter-row processing - largely determined the features of its design. It should be maneuverable, compact, no more than 250 mm wide. And since the land plot is located quite far from the house, I wanted to make the walk-behind tractor light. However, realizing that a light machine would not have enough grip for deep cultivation, he provided for the possibility of quickly replacing one wheel with two.
I chose the kinematic scheme, perhaps the most common - a two-stage chain transmission: engine - intermediate shaft - drive wheel.
The frame, welded from steel corners 32x32 mm, is a rigid truss. To the transverse corners of the upper frame, the engine from the Druzhba chainsaw with a gearbox leans. In front of it, on a bracket from a 15x15 mm corner, there is a small fuel tank, and on the front vertical corner posts of the frame there are intermediate shaft supports. The bearing housings of the running shaft are mounted on bolts under the longitudinal corners of the lower frame. And its rear cross member made of a square steel rod is used for mounting working tools.
The one-wheel layout places high demands on the accuracy of placing nodes on the frame. So, the common center of gravity should be located exactly above the supporting surface of the wheel. Therefore, the engine slightly offset behind the wheel axle is balanced by an additional load - a metal bar suspended in front of the frame.
General view of a one-wheeled motor plow (click to enlarge): 1 - handles, 2 - engine. 3 - fuel tank, 4 - intermediate shaft, 5 - counterweight, 6 - frame, 7 - bearing housing, 8 - wheel, 9 - attachment bracket, 10 - cultivator arm
Frame (tank bracket not shown) (click to enlarge)
Intermediate shaft (click to enlarge): 1 - bearing housing, 2 - drive sprocket Z=10, 3 - locking bolt M6, 4 - intermediate shaft, 5 - fixing bolt M10, 6 - driven sprocket Z=41, 7 - bearing no. 60204
The control handles are made of steel pipes d 28 mm and are connected by a crossbar for rigidity.
In the first stage of a valuable transmission, sprockets from a moped are used. The small one with Z = 14 is replaced by the engine saw broach sprocket, and the large one Z = 41 is mounted on the intermediate shaft. Wheel chain drive with a chain with a pitch of 19.05 mm is also lowering: from the intermediate shaft drive sprocket Z = 10 to the wheel drive with Z = 36.
The intermediate shaft is a steel rod d 30 mm, supported by its shanks in bearings No. 60204. The hubs of both sprockets are rigidly fixed on it with locking bolts.
The drive wheel in the one-wheel version is a rubber-coated roller from a serial cultivator. 12 lugs from a 20X20 mm corner 90 mm long are fixed on it parallel to the axis.
Drive wheel (single-wheel version): 1 - wheel hub, 2 - drive shaft, 3 - fixing bolt nut (welded to the hub), 4 - M10 fixing bolt, 5 - housing cover, 6 - bearing housing, 7 - fastening elements of the wheel to hub, 8 - wheel sprocket Z=36, 9 - mounting bolt of the M6X70 grouser, 10 - rubberized wheel, 11 - grouser
Drive axle (two-wheel version) (click to enlarge): 1 - lugs, 2 - wheel, 3 - drive shaft, 4 - key, 5 - bearing housing cover with felt seal; other details from the one-wheeled version
Transmission kinematic diagram: 1 - engine, 2 - gearbox (i=3), 3 - drive sprocket Z=14 from moped, 4 - chain, 5 - intermediate shaft, 6 - intermediate shaft driven sprocket Z=41 from moped, 7 - intermediate shaft drive sprocket Z=10, pitch 19.05 mm, 8 - wheel. 9 - wheel sprocket Z=36, pitch 19.05 mm
The wheel hubs and sprockets are fixed on their axis with radial bolts, and therefore the assembly can be easily disassembled for replacement with a two-wheeled one. The wheels in this version are different: metal, stamped, from agricultural machinery. Grousers to them from steel corners 25x25 mm and 100 mm long can be welded in a herringbone pattern, 16 pieces each. The sprocket on the drive shaft is attached in the same way and in the same place as in the one-wheel version. And the wheels with the help of dowels and locking bolts are on its shanks. The drive shaft bearings, mounted in closed housings, are reliably protected from dirt by felt seals.
The track of a walk-behind tractor with two wheels is determined by the size of the drive shaft and can be easily changed. In the single-wheel version, the frame turned out to be the widest part of the car - only 225 mm. This made it possible to manufacture and effectively use a whole set of auxiliary attachments for processing beds.
The walk-behind tractor can harrow after plowing, lay furrows of various depths, hill up beds, loosen with a narrow rake, dig, carry out various types of cultivation, and even sow and fertilize at a certain depth.
Motoblock today is an indispensable thing not only for farmers, but also for any summer resident. Thanks to its use, it is possible to greatly facilitate the work that is associated with agriculture and the cultivation of a summer cottage. Currently, a huge number of various useful additions are being produced for the walk-behind tractor, which turn this device into a motor unit designed for ordinary plowing of land or mechanization of harvesting grown vegetables. If there is a small amount of money and a desire to create, as well as basic skills in working with equipment, you can convert a walk-behind tractor with your own hands into various kinds of useful homemade products.
What homemade products can be assembled by redoing a regular walk-behind tractor
Variants of interesting homemade products from a walk-behind tractor are different. It all depends on the needs and imagination of its owner. Some homemade products are used to improve soil cultivation, others for hunting and fishing, and still others are just for fun. There are several typical designs that are most often found:
- Practical and convenient minitractor.
- Snowmobile for fans of winter fishing and hunting.
- Not afraid of off-road all-terrain vehicle.
- A swamp vehicle for trips for cranberries.
- Motodog for transporting sleds.
- Karakat for cross-country movement.
- Like a quad bike.
For the construction of any of these units, elementary knowledge of mechanics will be required.
We build a mini tractor and an all-terrain vehicle from a walk-behind tractor
Almost all homemade products made from a walk-behind tractor are designed to facilitate human work. Anyone who has not plowed the ground, dragging this machine by the horns, does not know how hard and tiring it is. Much easier to sit on it and go. However, the design of the product does not allow this to be done without some alterations. By making certain changes to the design of the walk-behind tractor, you can get a convenient and maneuverable mini tractor.
However, there is one significant problem. You can not sit directly on the walk-behind tractor without raising the center of gravity of the device. This is unacceptable, as the machine may tip over when cornering. Therefore, a second axle with a width of at least 1.2 m is required. The wheelbase of the walk-behind tractor itself must also be expanded to these limits. A turner is not needed for this, since the necessary nozzles for the drive shaft are commercially available. They increase the distance between the wheels to the required.
Usually, light or medium walk-behind tractors do not have a differential, which has a very negative effect on their maneuverability. Therefore, swivel extensions should be installed to limit excessive turning angle.
Today, even someone who does not know how to process metal can make a mini tractor, because there are ready-made kits for rework on sale, which consist of:
- Frame equipped with engine mounts.
- Footrests with pedals mounted on it.
- Driver's seat.
- Lever for disabling the axle locking system.
- Steering systems with installed rods.
- Front beam equipped with brake discs and wheel hubs.
- Back hinge plate with the manual convenient lifting mechanism.
- Wings.
There are no big problems when converting a walk-behind tractor into a minitractor using the listed parts. But you get a tractor, on which it is much easier and more convenient to cultivate the land than on a walk-behind tractor. The design and every detail is precisely measured and fitted. It has been tested under various conditions. So you don't have to customize anything.
To assemble an all-terrain vehicle from a walk-behind tractor, someone who has already made a tractor only needs to install wide all-terrain tires on the wheels. For the above homemade products, it is more convenient to use a water-cooled engine, as it is less prone to overheating and more resistant to prolonged loads.
How to build a swamp and snowmobile from a walk-behind tractor
There is no significant difference between these two homemade products, since both must have minimal ground pressure. To do this, it is necessary to make special wide snow-swamp wheels. To do this, you can use low pressure wheels or make fixtures from old tracks from the Buran snowmobile, as shown in the photo. This will allow you to place standard wheels from a walk-behind tractor directly into them. In order to put on such lugs, the wheels are lowered and inserted inside home-made "bast shoes". Then they simply pump up the tires, and they stick into the lugs tightly.
After these simple manipulations, you can safely go on a trip through a swampy plain or through deep loosened snow. In practice, it has already been proven that even a low-power 6-horsepower engine from a walk-behind tractor is quite capable of providing sufficient traction in difficult conditions, even on small slopes.
Such a swamp is able to bring out a single bucket of cranberries from a distant and hard-to-reach swamp.
What is a motorized dog and a karakat
Anyone who has ever ridden a motorized towing vehicle made specifically for this purpose, drew attention to its striking resemblance to a motorized block. Then why not make it yourself. After all, the engine, controls, the method of generating torque and transferring it to the wheels are similar. The only difference is that the motorized dog has a pair of caterpillars, which allows you to move through the snow and drag the sled along the endless snow-covered field. To turn a dream into a finished product, which is so necessary for winter fishing and hunting, you can simply buy a ready-made set of tracks on a chassis. If for someone the cost of this design seems high, you can make it yourself. To this end, it is necessary to thoroughly study the construction features of the caterpillar structure, which consists of a driven and driving sprocket for each caterpillar and several rubber rollers. All this is mounted on a frame welded from a channel. The engine and steering wheel with controls are attached to it. It is no longer difficult to build a sled on skis, for someone who can cope with the previous task.
You should not bypass such an interesting homemade product as a karakat. Its advantages are in huge wheels, which are chambers tied with belts. Sometimes, instead of belts, truck tires are used. They are facilitated by cutting out excess elements. Only the tread and part of the bead are left. For manufacturing, it is most convenient to use an electric jigsaw.
Disks for karakat use ordinary automobiles, to which an expanding structure is attached. Sometimes they act in a very original way, welding together two round metal basins and cutting holes in their bottoms for the hub, as in the photo below.
Although such a karakat from a walk-behind tractor looks rather clumsy, it is able to quite quickly overcome swampy areas, as well as carry up to 100 kg of cargo.
ATV from a walk-behind tractor
It is quite possible to build an ATV from a walk-behind tractor, only it will not have the power and speed of a real one, since the engines on a walk-behind tractor have completely different parameters. But its patency and maneuverability will be no worse.
It will be necessary to get into such an ATV not like in a motorcycle, but on a regular seat. You don't need to make special wheels for it. It is enough to choose suitable ones from a passenger car, capable of being equipped with wide-profile passable rubber.
Thus, the walk-behind tractor can be converted into anything, there would be a desire and a need. Finding suitable materials today is not difficult.
The first thoughts to make home-made devices for a walk-behind tractor appear after the need to transport goods, so my epic began with useful devices for a walk-behind tractor and was the first to make a home-made trailer cart.
We make homemade products for a walk-behind tractor with our own hands
For quick and high-quality soil cultivation, you need to make home-made houndstooth cutters for a walk-behind tractor, which will mix the soil to a sufficient depth and break up hard clods.
A homemade rake for a walk-behind tractor is also a useful attachment. It is best to have several of these different types of rake.
A homemade hiller for a walk-behind tractor will also be needed by every gardener. Okuchnik will allow you to form even and high ridges on all beds with root crops.
A home-made blade for a walk-behind tractor will facilitate the removal of snow and sand from the land, create good conditions for further tillage.
Homemade rake for walk-behind tractor
If you wish, you can easily make homemade rakes for a walk-behind tractor. For a hay rake with a wide hay rake, you can use ordinary water pipes that differ in their diameters. You will need to put a special sleeve on the round rod, and then tap its surface, turning it slightly.
When making, a round rod is best suited. Most parts of the rake are fastened by electric welding, since this method is simple, and at the same time a reliable design is obtained.
Greater simplicity of design can be achieved if the rotary parts on the axles are fixed without rolling bearings.
It is better to make a hay rake to a walk-behind tractor folding, as this will simplify their transportation.
How to make a homemade blade for a walk-behind tractor
The walk-behind tractor can serve as a bulldozer for leveling the ground, cleaning sidewalks or roads from dirt and snow. To do this, you need to make a home-made blade for a walk-behind tractor, as a rule, sheet metal 1-2 mm thick is used. Inside the blade, four steel ribs (stiffness) are welded from a sheet 3-4 mm thick.
In them, holes are drilled in place for fastening the blade with the rods in a strictly vertical position with respect to the front of the walk-behind tractor. It is also better to sheathe the bottom of the blade with tin so that it does not burrow into the ground.
- 1 - blade sheet (tin);
- 2 - rack 4pcs (stiffening ribs);
- 3 - bottom sheet of the blade (tin);
- 4 - knife; 5 - eye for fastening the thrust.
Convenient home-made seeder to the walk-behind tractor
Conventionally, seeders for walk-behind tractors are subdivided according to the number of simultaneously sown rows - from 1 to 5, vegetable seeders and precision seeders are also distinguished.
Vegetable seeders are used for dotted sowing of vegetables: carrots, onions, beets. The device for feeding seeds is driven from the support-drive wheels of the sections. In addition, the rotational speed of the device is regulated by interchangeable sprockets.
Planters vegetable exact seeding have a brush sowing device. In such a device, a rotating brush stirs up a layer of seeds in the hopper so that they spill out into a hole located in its rear wall. The hole is closed with a rotary disk having holes of different diameters. By turning the disc, you can change the size of the holes and thus change the seeding rate.
A home-made seeder to a walk-behind tractor is usually connected to a walk-behind tractor using a universal hitch, thanks to which it is possible to complete a walk-behind tractor with two-row and four-row seeders.
Homemade shovel for walk-behind tractor
The walk-behind tractor often acts as a bulldozer, leveling the ground, as well as clearing sidewalks or roads from snow dirt. For it is equipped with a shovel blade.
A home-made shovel for a walk-behind tractor is made without any difficulties if you have a “grinder”, a drill and a welding machine on your farm.
You won’t have to look for a suitable metal for a long time, since an ordinary two hundred liter steel barrel is suitable for making a blade-shovel. Carefully cutting it into three parts, you will get three curved segments for a shovel. Having welded two of them along the contour, you will get a shovel-dump with a metal thickness of 3 mm, which is quite enough for the required rigidity of the shovel-dump.
We make a homemade disk hiller for a walk-behind tractor
We begin to make a home-made disk hiller for a walk-behind tractor by searching for covers from steel pans that are unnecessary in the household (preferably not enameled, but simply metal). The required diameter is approximately 40-50 cm, taking into account the fact that the depth of germination of potato roots into the ground is no more than 15-20 cm. Next, we sharpen the blades of the covers, and in our case they are already hiller disks, on a grinding machine. If the covers are flat, then they are slightly bent to one side with a hammer.
Further, in order to make a convenient hiller, you need to make a trolley, to which disks that shift the soil will be attached. This can be a construction of pipes and bushings, we attach small support wheels to its lower frame.
After that, you can proceed to testing such a hiller right on the potato plot of the garden.
How to make a homemade plow for a walk-behind tractor
Is it necessary to make a plow for a walk-behind tractor if there are no special metalworking skills? Yes, it's worth it. The design of this agricultural implement is quite simple and therefore it is right for everyone to make a home-made plow for a walk-behind tractor.
Before proceeding with the implementation of your plan, you need to look at the previous posts on our site, where we described the manufacturing process in detail with drawings.
Professional tools are best suited for work, they will allow you to perform all the technological operations with your own hands at the required level and at the same time retain their quality. An amateur tool for such work is unsuitable because its level of strength is insufficient to perform some of the operations.
Homemade cutter crow's feet, for walk-behind tractor
This is an all-welded non-separable steel cutter, which gives it much greater strength than conventional cultivator cutters. A homemade crow's foot cutter for a walk-behind tractor shows great efficiency and is successfully used when plowing hard soil. It can be aggregated with almost any walk-behind tractor or motor-cultivator with a suitable axle diameter.
It is very good to use the “crow's feet” cutter when plowing the land for planting potatoes, especially if the soil is hard with large clods of earth, or when, for the prevention of the Colorado potato beetle, wireworm and other garden pests, you need to quickly plow the garden “in winter”.
Crow's feet are usually sold unsharpened, and many gardeners who have already tried these cutters are advised to sharpen them for easier and faster plowing.
Below are drawings of a homemade crow's feet2 cutter with a diameter of 520 mm, a grip of 1250 mm, a total of 30 beams. 3 pcs. per section. The beam is bolted to the coils.
When plowing the soil with such a cutter, it loosens and rises to a depth of 40 to 100 mm on average, depending on humidity.
Related Posts:
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Do-it-yourself seeder for a walk-behind tractor
Motoblock Agros and homemade products for it
Attachment to the snowmobile walk-behind tractor description and reviews
Potato digger for motoblock, homemade - photo, video
Homemade mower for walk-behind tractor (rotary, segment)It is desirable to make a home-made walk-behind tractor universal so that it can perform a variety of agricultural operations. However, it is not at all easy to create a design that is optimal for any work in the subsidiary farm. So, a powerful, heavy motor plow, as a rule, is too wide and clumsy in the aisles, and a nimble motor cultivator cannot overcome plowing of dense land. One of the solutions to this problem is proposed by our reader from the Krasnodar Territory, V. Yakovlev. Its compact one-wheeled machine will help in the processing of beds, will not damage closely planted plants, and if necessary, it will turn into a two-wheeled motor plow in just 10 minutes.
The main purpose of my walk-behind tractor - inter-row processing - largely determined its features: maneuverability, compactness, width no more than 250 mm. And since the land plot is located quite far from the house, I also wanted to make the design light. However, realizing that a light machine would not have enough grip for deep cultivation, he provided for the possibility of quickly replacing one wheel with two.
I chose the kinematic scheme, perhaps the most common - a two-stage chain transmission: engine - intermediate shaft - drive wheel.
The frame, welded from steel corners with dimensions of 32 × 32 mm, is a rigid truss. An engine from the Druzhba chainsaw with a gearbox is attached to the transverse corners of the upper frame. In front of it, a small fuel tank is installed on a bracket from a corner measuring 15 × 15 mm, and intermediate shaft supports are mounted on the front vertical corner posts of the frame. The bearing housings of the running shaft are bolted under the longitudinal corners of the lower frame. And the rear cross member of a square steel rod is used to mount working tools.
1 - handles; 2 - engine; 3 - fuel tank; 4 - intermediate shaft; 5 - counterweight; 6 - frame; 7 - bearing housing; 8 - wheel; 9 - bracket for mounted implements; 10 - cultivator paw
Frame(tank bracket not shown)
1 - wheel hub; 2 - drive shaft; 3 - nut of the fixing bolt (welded to the hub); 4 - fixing bolt M10; 5 - housing cover; 6 - bearing housing; 7 - elements of fastening the wheel to the hub; 8 - wheel sprocket Z4 = 36; 9 – a bolt of fastening of a grouser М6х70; 10 - rubberized wheel; 11 - grouser
The single-wheel arrangement imposes increased requirements on the accuracy of placing nodes on the frame. So, the common center of gravity should be located exactly above the bearing surface of the wheel. Therefore, the engine slightly displaced behind the wheel axle is balanced by an additional load - a metal bar suspended in front of the frame.
The control knobs are made of steel pipes with a diameter of 28 mm and are connected by a crossbar for rigidity.
In the first stage of the chain drive, sprockets from a moped are used. Small cZ = 14 replaces the sprocket of the engine saw broach, and large Z = 41 is mounted on the intermediate shaft. The wheel chain drive with a pitch of 19.05 mm is also lowering: from the intermediate drive sprocket Z = 10 to the wheel sprocket with Z = 36.
The intermediate shaft is a steel rod with a diameter of 30 mm, installed with its shanks in bearings 60204. The hubs of both sprockets are rigidly fixed on it with locking bolts.
1 - engine; 2 – reducer (i = 3); 3 - drive sprocket Z1 = 14 from the moped; 4 - chain; 5 - intermediate shaft; 6 - driven sprocket of the intermediate shaft Z3 = 41 from the moped; 7 - intermediate shaft drive sprocket Z3 = 10, pitch 19.05 mm; 8 - wheel; 9 - wheel sprocket - 36, pitch 19.05 mm
1 - lugs; 2 - wheel; 3 - drive shaft; 4 - key; 5 - cover of the bearing housing with a felt seal; other details - from the one-wheeled version
1 - bearing housing; 2 – drive sprocket Z3 = 10; 3 - locking bolt M6; 4 - intermediate shaft; 5 - fixing bolt M10; 6 - driven sprocket Z3 = 41; 7 - bearing 60204
The drive wheel in the one-wheel version is a rubber-coated roller from a serial cultivator. On it, parallel to the axis, 12 lugs from a corner 20 × 20 mm 90 mm long are fixed.
The wheel hubs and sprockets are fixed on their axis with radial bolts, and therefore the unit can be easily disassembled for replacement with a two-wheeled one. The wheels in this version are different: metal, stamped, from agricultural machinery. Grousers to them - from steel corners with dimensions of 25 × 25 mm and a length of 100 mm - can be welded with a “herringbone” of 16 pieces each. The sprocket on the drive shaft is attached in the same way and in the same place as in the one-wheel version, and the wheels are attached to its shank with the help of keys and locking bolts. The drive shaft bearings, mounted in closed housings, are reliably protected from dirt by felt seals.
Proper cultivation of a personal plot significantly increases the yield of planted crops. In modern conditions of lack of time, summer residents often resort to small-scale mechanization of garden work. The walk-behind tractor has not been in short supply for a long time, and it can be found in almost every household.
Having spent a certain amount on the purchase of this useful device, I want to save as much as possible during operation. One way to save money is to make attachments with your own hands.
Of course, no one suggests forging a plow in a forge, as was done many decades ago. However, you can not do without elementary plumbing equipment.
To make homemade fixtures for a walk-behind tractor, you will need:
- Welding machine, preferably for arc welding;
- Gas-burner. Not to replace electric welding, but to warm up the product during hardening;
- Angle grinder (grinder) of medium power, with a set of cutting and roughing discs;
- Drilling machine or powerful drill. Of course - high-quality drills;
- Electric emery (grindstone);
- High-quality locksmith's workbench, vise, files and fastening tools.
The most popular in use are mechanized hillers for walk-behind tractors. We will talk about the culture for which summer residents are ready to stand in the field for hours, bent over in three deaths. And an indispensable assistant in the struggle for the harvest is attachments.
How to make a potato hiller yourself
First of all, let's decide which tool is right for you. Hilling devices are of several types:
Lister fixed and adjustable angle
Fixed - This is the easiest device to use and manufacture. It is easy to make using the attached drawings:
The base is welded from a steel sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm. This node is the first to meet the resistance of the soil.
We use a 4 mm steel strip for the bracket, it is advisable to harden the part after molding. The field board can be bent from 5 mm steel, for example from a leaf spring. Only the metal must first be “released”, and then hardened again.
Advice! A crucible is not required for tempering and quenching. With such dimensions of workpieces, a gas burner is quite enough.
Rack - a structural element that carries the entire load. Therefore, for it, select a strip of at least 8 mm thick.
General view of the base in the illustration:
Welding must be performed in two passes, on each side of the joint.
Wings can be made from thinner sheet. 2 mm is enough. It is important to observe the dimensions, otherwise it will not be possible to properly dock the wings with the base.