A land inherited, donated or bought in a hurry may not always represent paradise from smooth lawns and exotic, well-groomed plants.
Weeds on the site can even be cultivated plantsovergrown due to excessive self-seeding.
As a rule, a site that has stood for a long time without maintenance is overgrown with trees, bushes and weeds.
The fence can be dismantled for firewood, and a heap of garbage can be piled on the site itself. It is not uncommon for streams of rainwater to cut through whole trenches in the ground. Such a site will definitely have to be developed and improved.
Work planning
The first impression of acquaintance with a new suburban acquisition can be very negative and even depressing, but there is no need to despair. There are no impossible tasks. You need to start with planning first the scheme of the site itself, and then proceed to the work plan and the calculation of the need for materials and equipment. You can do the work yourself, for this you need to have a lot of free time, a reliable tool and good health, which will be further strengthened from working on fresh air... It should be borne in mind that it may take months, if not years, to improve an overgrown area alone. Engaging a team with heavy equipment will save a lot of time, but it will be very costly and will not give the proper quality of work. In this case, the site will be badly broken, and the soil will be contaminated with the remains of trees and bushes. The third is the most the best option - independently develop a site with the periodic involvement of relatives and acquaintances or hired workers, who are easy to find through advertisements.
After drawing up master plan to bring the site into a decent form, it is necessary to clarify the exact boundaries of its territory. This is necessary not only in order not to waste time and effort by mistake on the processing of someone else's territory, which will then have to be given, but also to return their own, if for some reason the neighbors have taken it into use. Operation on precise definition the boundaries of the site for a small fee will be carried out by surveyors. Along the way, you can investigate the composition of the soil at the site in order to know what additives and in what quantity will be required for it in the future. it's better not to put it right away. Firstly, it will interfere with soil processing. Secondly, it will impede the movement of transport, which will constantly deliver any materials or take away construction waste.
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Clearing the site from trees
After establishing the exact boundaries of your possessions, you need to decide on the trees. It is not at all necessary to cut down all the vegetation and turn the site into bare prairie. Some trees can serve good decoration terrain and ennoble appearance plot. If the construction of a gazebo or the installation of a barbecue is planned on the site, then the shadow from a tree growing next to them will be good additional protection from the sun. When the fate of the trees is decided, you can start felling. If the trees are thin, you can simply cut them down with an ax.
If thick, tall trees are sentenced to liquidation, then you need to seek help from professionals. Felling such trees is not only difficult, but also dangerous. Stumps need to be left high, up to 1 meter, this will subsequently facilitate their uprooting. It is better not to throw away the wood remaining after felling, but to cut it into convenient parts and fold it neatly. Over time, firewood can be useful for a fire or barbecue. Branches, cleared of leaves, can be used for artistic weaving, strengthening work, or, after drying, simply burn them, while destroying some of the weeds and fertilizing the soil with ash.
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Getting rid of stumps
The stumps left after the felling of trees can hardly be called a decoration of a summer cottage or house. At first, they constantly put out young branches that need to be cut down. When the stump stops giving new shoots, a lot of harmful organisms settle in it: mold, fungi, insects - all this will be distributed over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe site. Therefore, it is better to get rid of stumps immediately, at the same time freeing useful area for future plantings. If this work is left for later, then when uprooting, you can cause serious damage to the already created landscape: damage paths, flower beds, crush flowers and grass. There are several ways to get rid of stumps.
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Grubbing stumps with a tractor
This is the quickest and easiest way to get rid of tree stumps. It is enough to clear the passage to the stumps, dig in them slightly and then the technique will do everything. The remaining hole after removing the stump can be used for planting a new tree, shrub, or as a mini-pit for any building element. If there is no use for the pit, then you can simply fill it up. The disadvantages of this method include its high cost and danger. The use of a tractor is economically justified if it is necessary to get rid of a large number stump.
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Stump removal with a crusher
A method that practically does not damage the surrounding landscape. It is good if a valuable shrub grows next to the stump that needs to be preserved, or there is some kind of structure and, when removed from the ground, the stump can damage it with its roots. For such work, you do not need to clear the entrance to the object and use heavy equipment. The only drawback of using a crusher is the shallow processing depth, only up to 30 cm. In the place that remains after removing the stump, it is no longer possible to plant a tree or without unnecessary problems lay down strip foundation, since some of the roots will remain in the ground.
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Using chemicals to remove stumps
Very simple and cheap way, which does not require either heavy equipment or specialist assistance. An electric drill and an accurate dosage of relatively harmless chemicals are enough. The essence of the method is that the maximum is drilled in the stump deep holes, in which wet saltpeter is laid. After that, the stump is insulated to prevent water from entering and washing out the nitrate.
It should be in this state for about a year in order for the saltpeter to completely saturate all the wood, including the roots. Further, the stump is set on fire and completely burns out, including the underground, root part. Chemical method good because it does not require any effort, but takes a lot of time. After the stump is burned, at least a year must pass before the area on which it was located becomes suitable for sowing grass or planting berry bushes... In addition, you need to be careful not to get a chemical burn to the eyes and respiratory organs, and also not to set the peat bog (if the site is on it) on fire.
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Destruction of stumps by mushrooms
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Removing stumps manually
The cheapest and safest for environment method of uprooting stumps. Here, as a rule, no special machinery and equipment is required. To begin with, the stump is dug to the maximum, and its roots, as far as possible, are freed from the ground. After that, the roots are separated from the stump with an ax and a saw. Further, with the help of physical force, the stump is pulled out of the ground.
The roots remaining in the ground can be pulled out manually, using a winch, or destroyed with the above chemically... It should be noted that it will not be possible to cope with such work alone; it is necessary to think in advance about attracting a group of physically strong assistants. In addition, stumps should not be manually uprooted in winter and into slush, since frozen ground and mud will make this work almost impossible.
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Shrub removal
It is very easy to get rid of extra bushes. To do this, you need a regular garden pruner or a hacksaw and bayonet shovel... If the bush is very thick and lush, then you first need to cut off the branches to get to its main trunks. Then one person begins to pull the bush towards himself at an angle to the ground, and the second at this time digs in the roots of the bush, freeing it from the ground. As a rule, this method is enough to ensure that you get rid of the bushes. If you just cut the bush at the root, then very soon it will give fresh shoots and the operation will have to be repeated.
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Parcel alignment
After removing trees and stumps from the site, it is necessary to plan it. Layout is necessary in order to get rid of pits in which water will collect and unnecessary bumps that will spoil the appearance. No need to achieve perfect flat surface... It would be most advisable to make the surface slightly raised in the middle of the site with a uniform slope towards the edges for rainwater to drain. At the edges, the site must be equipped with a drainage ditch for collection excess moisture from the soil. The edges of the ditch must be strengthened so that they do not crumble under the influence of the flow of water, otherwise every rain will carry away part of the land from the site, and the ditch will eventually turn into a wide stream. The walls of the ditch can be sheathed with branches left after felling trees, pieces of slate, boards, corrugated board or metal tiles that always remain after construction. Large boulders, if such were on the site, can be left, using them later as the basis for a rock garden.
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Weed control
After cleaning, it is time for weed control, otherwise it will not be possible to achieve growth on it beautiful flowers and bright green grass... Weeds are one of the most formidable and persistent enemies for suburban area... They take away nutrients, moisture from the soil, poison it, protect other plants from the sun. An area overgrown with weeds will not bring much joy when traveling to suburban area... Weeds can be controlled in several ways, alternately, as well as by combining and combining them. It should be noted that weeds cannot be destroyed in one go. Each type of weed has its own lifespan: some can be stored in the ground in the form of seeds for years, waiting for favorable circumstances. In addition, weeds constantly enter the site along with fertilizers, are carried by the wind, on clothes and shoes. If you do not constantly fight with weeds, then the site, no matter how carefully it is ennobled, will very soon overgrow again.
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Preparatory work
To begin with, you need to mow all the grass that is on the site with an oblique or trimmer and, if there are no neighbors and the site is surrounded by uncultivated land, then a couple of meters around it, since the lush vegetation surrounding it will give a huge influx of seeds to the cleared land. Next, you need to collect the news of garbage from the ground: old leaves, grass, branches, stones and the like. You don't have to throw away the trash. You can fold it in the far corner of the plot and use it to make compost.
Photo 1. Clearing trees.
Land clearing is a demanded service. In order to quickly and safely remove unnecessary perennial green spaces, it is necessary to invite arborists who have the necessary skills and also know how to handle special equipment.
The area is usually cleared for construction, laying communications, planting a garden, gardening or for other needs. The site, removed from the plants, becomes completely suitable for any purpose. The main thing is that large-sized trees and shrubs are removed efficiently, accurately, without damaging the buildings located near.
You must obtain official permission to clear the area from trees and bushes. A felling ticket can be issued at the Department of Nature Management and Environmental Protection of Moscow or at the Forestry Department for the Moscow Region. The owner of the allotment receives the document.
Arborists of the Lesmaster company know how to safely remove perennial tree plantations of any size. They have experience in clearing territories of any degree of neglect. Experts eliminate plants completely, leaving no roots or stumps. All work is carried out in compliance with safety regulations.
Prices for cleaning the territory
The cost of work is determined by the degree of neglect of the allotment, age, size of plantings. If the diameter of the trunks is less than 8 cm, then a tractor and an excavator are used. Consequently, free space is required for access for special equipment.
Calculator of the cost of land clearing with a tractor
Prices for cleaning the site, if it does not grow big trees
- Working conditions:
providing free space for access to special equipment;
diameter of tree trunks up to 8 cm.
| Type of work | Unit rev. | price, rub. |
| Plotting the site with a tractor, excavator | 8 ocloc'k | 17 500 |
|---|
- Brief technology of work:
pulling out stumps using special equipment;
backfilling of the resulting holes, leveling the territory.
For 8 hours of work, you can clean about 6 acres of a medium-neglected area prepared for uprooting.
The minimum cost of work is 17,500 rubles.
Prices for the work of the team to clear the site if large trees grow on it that need to be cut down
- Working conditions:
availability of sufficient free space for the movement of the tractor;
tree trunks thickness from 8 cm.
- Brief technology of work:
sawing tree trunks with an arborist manually towards the natural slope;
removing the remaining stumps with a tractor;
backfilling of the resulting pits with a mixture of earth and sawdust.
For 8 hours of work, on average, about 20-40 trees with a trunk diameter of up to 20-40 cm can be removed.
The minimum cost of work is 40,000 rubles.
You can get an idea of \u200b\u200bhow work is carried out to clean up areas from thickets from the following video.
The video element is not supported by your browser.
Video 1. Clearing the area from trees and bushes with an excavator
Photo 2. Clearing the site from trees and bushes by uprooting.
If large-sized trees with a trunk diameter of more than 8 cm grow on the territory, then first arborists perform their cut manually in the direction of the natural inclination. Then the remaining stumps are uprooted with a tractor. After that, all the pits are covered with a mixture of earth with sawdust, the territory is leveled.
The amount of time spent on the complete cleaning of the allotment is largely determined by the size of the green spaces, the type of their root system. Grubbing quickly will turn out to be an area in which specimens with a thin trunk and superficial roots grow. Fibrous and core root system more complex, it takes more effort and time to remove.
How to clear the area from trees and bushes?
Shrubs and small specimens can be uprooted with a pulling bucket excavator. If large trees with a thick trunk and large branches grow on the site, experts remove them manually. Such plantings are felled entirely or cut down in fragments so as not to damage communications, neighboring buildings.
Photo 3. Cleaning the site from trees and bushes with an excavator.
You can use a tractor to clear the plot of land from trees. This method effective when it is necessary to clear the allotment of a large number of specimens with a small diameter trunk. They are uprooted with a bucket. The remaining stumps, roots are uprooted with a winch or heavy equipment. After that, the pits are covered with earth.
Clearing the area from the forest, as a rule, takes longer. Felling shrubs and woody vegetation often has to be done manually. The procedure also provides for grubbing and plowing of the site, cleaning up wood debris.
The owners do not always get the plots in excellent condition with dug up beds and trimmed. Basically, the new owner just gets a plot overgrown with weeds and weeds with fruit trees and shrubs that turned wild and began to bring completely different large and juicy fruits, which were brought before in a tidy condition. However, sometimes the site is inherited from grandparents, or they simply forget about it for a while, during which it manages to overgrow with weeds and thickets of grass as tall as human growth. Of course, it is impossible to plant something on such a site without first clearing it. The first task facing the owner of the site is to clear the area and prepare it for the next season.
In general, smart and zealous gardeners have long come up with many ways that allow you to quickly and efficiently master virgin lands in order to use the land for their needs. After all, the land, rested for several years and overgrown with weeds, is excellent for any planting, since it has accumulated all the necessary nutrients. It remains only to bring it into proper condition and start implementing your plan. But this sounds just in words. In fact, this is a huge work that requires a lot of effort and time. But the result is worth it.
In general, all methods of developing virgin lands can be divided into those that allow you to plant some plants in the first season after processing and those that do not allow you to do this.
Radical changes
This method is considered to be quite simple in concept and laborious in execution. In the process of freeing the site from the thickets, it is required to remove the top layer of the earth, called sod, in which numerous roots are intertwined. The cut layers are placed in the designated place with the roots up and covered with a material that does not transmit light. Periodically, this pile must be treated with urea so that after a few years it turns into excellent compost.
As for the soil itself, a new layer of soil is poured over the cleared soil, which is ordered on several machines. The main thing is to know the origin of the soil and its quality. Otherwise, you run the risk of wasting money and getting a new layer of land, rich in weeds and disease-causing microbes and even pests.
The simpler the better
The first method is relatively easier, since here it is proposed to dig up the area manually, without removing the roots of the weeds. Another thing is that with this method you will not be able to sow a lot of things on the site for a long time. Cabbage and potatoes will come to the rescue. Cabbage is planted with seedlings, but as it grows, it will bring a powerful shadow from its leaves, like. This shadow will cover the ground and begin to suppress the growth of weeds. In addition, periodically it will be necessary to huddle the beds, which will also help destroy weeds.
For greater effect between rows, you can mulch with grass cuttings, manure or compost. 
Useful waste paper
This very original way will be effective if the instructions are followed carefully. To translate it into reality, you need rotted manure (you can use chicken manure, compost or humus). This composition must be evenly distributed over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe developed area and covered with black and white newspaper 5-7 layers thick on top. If you think it is difficult, the newspaper can be replaced with thick cardboard. Compost mixed with manure is poured on top of the paper layer.
The advantage of this method is that in newspapers you can make holes in which you can plant any crops grown through seedlings. This is perfect for those who do not want to wait long, content with only potatoes and cabbage. At the end of the season except great harvest of cultivated crops you will also receive a clean area, with soil enriched with vitamins and microelements. 
Black bedspread
Black sheeting is a fairly well-known way to get rid of weeds. It can cover the entire site, so that under the hot summer sun, a real hell for all living plants is created under it. Not a single weed can survive the absence of sunlight and this steam room, so by the end of the season the film can be removed, and the earth can be dug up and feel like a winner. Alas, with this method, there is no question of any plantings in the current season.
Siderata come to the rescue (video - site planning)
Many pleasant words have been said about green manure plants, from which there are a lot of benefits. Including during the development of the site. Among all the cultures of this series, three can be distinguished that will cope with the task better than others.
Winter rye is the first of these three helper crops to remove weeds. By itself, rye perfectly suppresses the growth of other plants, and winter is used for a reason. Rye seeds are planted in spring instead of fall. Thus, the grower deceives the plant, which cannot bloom during the season and does not form an ear.
The effect can be enhanced by cutting the wheat several times per season without damaging the growing part of the plant. In the spring of the next season, rye will sink into the ground, and in its place you can plant potatoes or other crops, depending on how much your area is overgrown.
Sunflower is a much easier job for a summer resident, but at the same time it is no less ruthless in relation to weeds. In early May, its seeds are planted in the ground after digging as thick as possible. When the seedlings emerge from the ground, other plants simply will not have a chance to survive under such pressure.
In early autumn, sunflowers can be mowed and chopped into pieces of twenty centimeters, and then thrown into the soil. During the fall, these parts will decompose and fertilize the soil well, preparing it for planting new crops in the next season.
Bush beans are not only effective, but also delicious. Only sow it thicker than it is usually prescribed for it. A distance of 5-10 cm is maintained between plants, and 20-30 cm between rows. During the first month, you still have to weed between the plants, and then the beans will cover the entire garden with their leaves, and it is unlikely that anything can grow in this shade. When the season comes to an end, the tops of the beans will go to compost, and the site should be passed with a hoe to remove the most tenacious weeds.
As you can see, the methods are very different in nature. You can choose any of them, depending on whether you are in a hurry to plant something on your site or are ready to wait for time and the sun to do their job. In any case, if you take up this business and bring it to the end, you can then enjoy the delights of working on your weed-free site.
Plot of land for which for a long time “No man's foot has stepped” is a rather dull sight. And to be honest, his appearance first causes shock, and only then sadness. The fact is that most often the land is overgrown without supervision with all possible weeds, shrubs and trees. Moreover, even cultivated varieties of trees and plants turn into "wild" - there is no benefit from them, but you will not get around trouble.
Moreover, if the territory at least had a fence, then there is a possibility that there is no debris on it. But without a fence land very quickly turn into unauthorized landfills. If you have such an overgrown area and don't know where to start, check out this article.
A good plan is half the battle
Many people, starting to work with a "wild" site, grab their heads and strive to do everything at once. It is not right. Many are trying to evade work - to hire a team of workers. Not a bad solution if you have an extra amount of money left. The fact is that the cost of developing an overgrown site today is rather big. If you do not know how to develop an overgrown area , but nevertheless decided to act independently, our advice is - before mastering virgin lands, draw up a work plan.
First, decide what is the purpose of the site that you will develop. The fact is that if it is needed only for building a house, then the work plan will be slightly simplified, but if you decide to do agriculture, then you will noticeably increase the work.
Carefully study the territory you need to master. Is there household or construction waste on the site. How many trees and shrubs are there, in what condition they are and whether they are of any value, can something be left, or everything must be removed. Are there stumps on the site, what is their size and appearance. Perhaps there are some structures on the territory: a house, a well, a toilet.
Making a plan will help you deal with your panic attacks and will be a great help. The sequence of work performed is approximately as follows.
- Clear the area.
- Remove grass and thickets.
- Remove shrubs and dead wood.
- Remove unnecessary trees.
- Uproot stumps.
- Dig up and loosen the soil.
- Bring in black soil.
- Align the area.
- Apply fertilizer.
- Give the earth a rest - let it "steam".
This plan must be followed if you are going to engage in farming on an overgrown area. If you purchased it for building, then you can limit yourself to the first six points.
Clearing the territory
Since it is rather difficult for one person to process an overgrown area - it is practically beyond his power, you need to create a small team: family members, relatives, friends and acquaintances are perfect for these purposes. Especially when performing the first stages of work.
- Clear the area of \u200b\u200bthe site from the debris that lies on the surface and there is no need to apply a large physical strength... It can be both household and construction waste, stones, sticks, etc.
- All collected garbage should be piled up in one or two large heaps closer to the part of the site to which there is a motor vehicle access.
- You shouldn't bury garbage, even if it is small and insignificant, in the ground. This will only add work to yourself. Especially do not do this under trees - debris will interfere with the development of the root system of those trees that you decide to leave.
Removal of grass and thickets
This stage of work is probably the most laborious. After all the visible debris from the site has been cleaned up, it is necessary to deal with weeds and thickets of grass. This work is best done by hand, despite the fact that there will be a lot of hassles, but it is enough to put the land in order just once than to fight the same problems every year. Some novice "farmers" prefer to work with a motor-cultivator, but this has its drawbacks.
- Large weeds are pulled out, then, with the help of a bayonet-shovel, the top layer of the earth - sod (about five centimeters) is removed. This way you can remove the roots of weeds. perennial plants... The sod should not be thrown away - it can be laid in layers in a separate place (roots up) and covered with a dark film that does not let the sun's rays through. In a year, this land will become an ordinary fertile soil - it can be used for its intended purpose.
- The cultivator cuts the sod along with the weeds and re-embeds it all in the soil. Thus, it is a waste of work, as the technique shreds the weeds and sod, causing the grass to grow further, as the roots remain in the ground. In addition, they remain in the ground various insects- pests - the cultivator does not get rid of them.
- An uncultivated overgrown plot of land is difficult to cultivate without resorting to chemistry - here herbicides, for example, "Reglon", "Hurricane", "Roundup" can help you. Before using such toxic drugs, carefully read the instructions and follow all precautions. Basically, manufacturers advise processing in calm weather in early summer. The grass finally dies in two to three weeks - all that remains is to collect it with a rake and take it to the trash or burn it. It should be noted that it is possible to plant cultivated plants on the territory treated with herbicides after 1.5-2 months!
Cleaning shrubs and dead wood
Everything is very simple here - a "well" overgrown area necessarily has a considerable number of shrubs. To remove shrubs, you must use a garden pruner to remove most branches, leaving the central, and then dig in the root and uproot it. It is best to do this together - one works with a shovel, and the other pulls the bush at an angle. Do not just cut down the bush - after a while newer shoots will definitely appear.
As for dead wood (these are trees and shrubs, as well as last year's tough grass - all together this is a sharp thorny jungle). All this can be easily cut down and uprooted.
By the way, now you can call a car or carriage for garbage removal for the first time - by this time it has accumulated enough to load the car for at least one "trip" to the dump. After that, you will immediately notice how much work you have already done.
Removing unnecessary trees
It is not necessary to remove all the trees that grow on the site. Some of them, of course, it is time to remove, but some can become a worthy decoration of the territory. They can be left at least in order to have at least some kind of shadow, where you can take a break from direct sunlight.
Having decided on the future of the trees on the site, you can start felling the "extra" ones.
- Thin trees. You can get rid of them with a regular ax.
- Thick trees. You can get rid of them with a saw - both conventional and electric (the latter, of course, is preferable, since it saves time and effort).
- Tall trees. It is better to turn to professionals here, as felling these trees on your own can be dangerous.
- Stump. To make it easier to uproot the stumps, their height should be no more than one meter.
- Felled trees. If you are going to build a house or a summer cottage on the site of the site, then the trees can be used for firewood: for a stove, for a fireplace, for a barbecue. In order not to pay extra for garbage collection, trees can be offered to people who have stove heating - they will definitely not refuse such generous help.
- Leaves from trees. You don't have to throw them away - you can dry and burn them, and then fertilize the ground with these ashes.
Grubbing tree stumps
On the territory of the site there may be old stumps or young ones that remained after you uprooted trees. Young stumps will first start up young growth, then mold, moss, mushrooms, various insects can settle there, so it is still better to get rid of the stumps right away.
There are several ways to get rid of tree stumps.
- Manually. This is not only the cheapest way, but also the safest for external environment... In order to uproot the stump, there is no need for any special equipment at all - the stump must first be dug in, and the roots must be removed from the ground and chopped off. After that, swing the stump as best as possible and manually pull it out of the ground. If roots remain, they can also be manually pulled out. It is better if several people help to swing the stump.
- With a tractor. Most quick way getting rid of stumps. It is enough to dig in the stump a little, throw a winch over it, the other end of which is fixed to the tractor and pull it well. This method is expensive, but it is justified if you need to get rid of a large number of stumps.
- With a crusher. This is the most safe method, since it will not damage the landscape, growing near the right trees and even standing buildings. The disadvantage of this method is shallow processing, which leaves some of the roots in the ground.
- With the help of chemistry. A fairly simple and inexpensive method. It is necessary to drill holes in the stump using an electric drill (as deep as possible) and pour wet saltpeter into them. A prerequisite is the insulation of the stump so that the saltpeter does not wash out in the rains. After about a year, the saltpeter permeates the stump to the very roots. After that, the stump only needs to be set on fire - it burns out completely. Plants can be planted at this place no earlier than 12 months later. This method has one drawback - it is very long and is not suitable for those who need to develop a site as quickly as possible.
- With the help of mushrooms. The most exotic way, suitable for those stumps that are located in the shade. Fungi, as you know, in the course of their life, are capable of destroying wood. If you sow honey mushrooms on a stump, then soon the stump will collapse, but while this happens, for many years you will always have delicious and fresh mushrooms.
Digging and loosening the soil
Now, after not a single blade of grass remains on the once overgrown area, it is time to dig up the ground and start loosening the soil.
- The earth is dug up with a shovel: the earth is turned over, clods of earth are broken, and fed with organic fertilizers.
- They loosen the ground with a pitchfork - thus, all lumps are leveled, roots and debris that were not noticed earlier are selected.
- If the soil is good, then it can be dug only once to the depth of one shovel bayonet, and if not, you will have to work hard and make a two-tiered dig.
Delivery of chernozem
In the event that the soil turned out to be very "unimportant" - clayey, saline or poor in nutrients (its analysis today can be ordered without any problems in special geo-laboratories), and you planned to engage in agriculture, then it would be best to have a high-quality black soil.
Parcel alignment
The dug area or the area to which black soil was brought must be leveled. It is best to do this with a rake, so you can finally "smooth" the ground by removing stones and roots from it that were previously invisible. In addition, using this maneuver, you can make sure that the level of the ground on the site is the same everywhere.
If you have brought black soil, you need to make sure that it does not mix with the lower soil layer.
Remember that the fertile soil layer should be at least twenty centimeters.
Fertilizer application
After the plot of land has leveled, it must be fertilized - for this with the help of a roller for lawns (in the absence of such a tool, you can simply trample the ground with your feet a little), sprinkle the top with fertilizer in granules and again “mix the soil with a rake.
Fallow"
If you did everything correctly, then your site looks like a dough prepared for baking. However, the earth, like the dough, must be allowed to rest before starting sowing work. The land "under steam" must stand for at least two months. And ideally a year.
During this time, that you will not touch the ground, insects will fulfill their function - they will enrich the soil, and small animals and birds will rid the earth of the most harmful insects.
To prevent the site from falling into desolation, it is necessary from time to time to weed it from weeds - they can be pulled out manually or with a hoe. Do not forget to collect all the weeds and loosen the ground after that!
This completes the development of the overgrown area. We hope you succeed!
The site is cleared in several stages. First step - felling of trees on the site. If there are no difficulties with the landscape or existing buildings, the preferred method is to fell trees from the root entirely. Sometimes, when clearing the site, you have to resort to other methods. Lack of space, trees that cannot be cut down, emergency and dangerous trees, buildings - all this makes it difficult to resort to felling from the root entirely. In such cases, one of three more expensive methods will be used: removal in parts, removal in parts with descent separate parts, roll from the root using guy wires. After the trees have been cut down, they must be cut into pieces and disposed of, and the roots and stumps must be uprooted.
If a partial clearing of the site is to be done, then the three methods described above are most often used for it - sawing in parts with dumping, removal with hanging fragments or directional felling. Their complexity justifies the higher cost of partial clearance.
To avoid extra costs and unpleasant surprises, it is recommended to draw up a plan for future buildings before cleaning the site and construction. It is also important to remember that cleaning up an area where there are no buildings yet easier and will cost less.
| 2000 - 4000r per one hundred square meters | 4000 - 8000r per one hundred square meters | |
| 500 rubles per hundred square meters | 1000 - 1500r per one hundred square meters | |
| Grubbing stumps | 500 - 1500 per stump | |
| 400r for 1m 3 | ||
| 900 rub for 1m 3 | ||
| 500r for 1 m 3 | ||
What is included in the price:
- Drawing up a work plan
Additional services:
- Grubbing tree stumps
- Cleaning of the territory
Cost of work *: from 2000 rubles per hundred square meters.
| Low planting density | High density plantings | |
|---|---|---|
| 6000 - 10000r per one hundred square meters | 10000 - 20000r per hundred square meters | |
| Removing trees piece by piece | 4000 - 8000r per tree | |
| Warehousing felling residues | 500 rubles per hundred square meters | 1000 - 1500r per one hundred square meters |
| Grubbing stumps | 500 - 1500 per stump | |
| Transfer of felling residues to a distance of up to 100m | 400r for 1m 3 | |
| Loading and removal of felling residues | 900 rub for 1m 3 | |
| Incineration of felling residues | 500r for 1 m 3 | |
| * The price depends on the density of the stands and the complexity of the work performed | ||
What is included in the price:
- Free visit of a specialist to determine the cost of work
- Drawing up a work plan
- Removing all trees and overgrowth on the site
- Removing trees piece by piece
- Sawing all trees into wearable parts
Additional services:
- Sawing trees for firewood
- Storage of trees and bushes in a specific place
- Removal or incineration of felling residues
- Grubbing tree stumps
- Cleaning of the territory
Cost of work *: from 8,000 rubles per hundred square meters.
* Minimum cost of departure: 10,000 rubles
What is included in the price:
- Free visit of a specialist to determine the cost of work
- Drawing up a work plan
- Removing all trees and overgrowth on the site
- Removing trees piece by piece
- Sawing all trees into wearable pieces or firewood
- Storage of trees and bushes in a specific place
- Removal or incineration of felling residues
- Grubbing tree stumps
- Cleaning of the territory
- Photo report during work
Additional services:
Cost of work *: from 25,000 rubles per hundred square meters.
* Minimum cost of departure: 100,000 rubles
* The price depends on the density of the stands and the complexity of the work performedWhat is included in the price:
- Free visit of a specialist to determine the cost of work
- Drawing up a work plan
- Removing trees and bushes under power lines, cutting branches in the immediate vicinity of power lines
- Sawing all trees into wearable parts
Additional services:
- Sawing trees for firewood
- Storage of trees and bushes in a specific place
- Removal or incineration of felling residues
- Grubbing tree stumps
- Cleaning of the territory
Cost of work *: from 20,000 rubles per 100 running meters
* Minimum cost of departure: 20,000 rubles