Floor screed on floor slabs. Types of structures of various floors on reinforced concrete slabs, their composite layers

The concrete screed is used as a base for the floor as often as possible. This is due to its high performance characteristics. The introduction of special additives makes the solution plastic, in addition, it has high adhesion. After maturing, the structure becomes insensitive to moisture and can be used indoors and outdoors.

Traditional concrete screeds have a thick or semi-dry consistency. The basis is a cement mortar of a grade not lower than M150, taken in a ratio of cement and sand 1: 3. For kneading, dry components are first mixed, after which mixing with water occurs.

The result is a traditional design with a compressive strength of about 25 MPa. In residential premises, the minimum strength is 12 MPa, in premises with high loads - 20 MPa... Therefore, concrete screeds have a good margin of safety and all the prerequisites for long-term operation.

It is permissible to use sand, gravel, crushed stone as filler. The size of the filler should not be more than 1/3 of the entire thickness of the structure.

Semi-dry varieties contain less water. This provides a much higher compressive strength of the order of 35 MPa.

The solution supply can be organized using a pneumatic pump or manually

Plus, such systems are less susceptible to shrinkage, and hence cracking. Modifiers can be added to such solutions, accelerating hardening, increasing plasticity, density.

Another option for preparing solutions is the use of ready-made mixtures. It is enough to add water to them directly on the construction site. The amount of mixing water is always indicated by the manufacturer.

In most cases, reinforcing fibers are included in the formulation, which successfully prevents shrinkage and cracking. Prepared solutions can differ in thick, semi-liquid or semi-dry consistency. Semi-liquid mixtures are optimally distributed over the substrate, forming a self-leveling screed - this is the ideal finishing layer for laying floor coverings.

The quality of solutions can be improved by introducing polymer additives, which accelerates the setting... On such screeds, you can put porcelain stoneware and ceramic coatings after 24 hours, some mixtures allow finishing work after 4 hours.

The market offers a product that can be prepared and fed using concrete pumps. The strength of such solutions reaches 55 MPa. In addition, the ready-mix is ​​the best option for screeds with underfloor heating. But, it should be checked that the possibility of such use is noted on the packaging. According to this technology, the solution should cover the heat transfer fluids by a thickness of 2 cm.

Screed types

If we talk about design features, all screeds are subdivided into those associated with the base or made on a separating layer. The separating layer is a dense polyethylene film or a system of heat and sound insulation.

The installation technology is the same in each case, regardless of the type of construction. The difference lies in the principles of base preparation and in thickness.

Distinctive characteristics:

• related- have a connection with the structural part of the object. It is either a concrete floor slab on the ground or a floor slab. Such screeds function in conjunction with the base on which they are laid. Before installation, the concrete slab must be primed, that is, it is necessary to perform a layer that works for high adhesion;
• on the separating layer- performed if the substrate is: 1. Wet, 2. Contaminated with grease, 3. High absorption is present, 4. Too weak. The construction is poured over the release layer. Usually it is a polyethylene film 0.2 mm thick. The material is always laid with an overlap (10 cm), with an approach to the walls. After the end of the work, the surplus is cut off;
• floating- solution for places where it is necessary to reduce the level of impact noise or the base is too weak. The substrate (soundproofing layer) is laid using special materials. It can be natural cork, polymer boards, corrugated cardboard sheets, mineral mats, 30-40 mm thick. A polyethylene film is laid on the thermal insulation, and then the solution is poured. If the room is located above an unheated area, you should take care of the issue of thermal insulation.

Plates of insulation material are laid with a dressing, that is, with a shift of the seams relative to each other

Concrete flooring

They start laying if the temperature of the air and the base is within + 5-25 degrees. Before starting work, the surface is thoroughly cleaned with a construction vacuum cleaner, stiff brushes or using special equipment. The goal is to remove all contaminants that could impair adhesion.

To increase adhesion, the concrete base is primed... If grease stains and cracks are noted, a separating film based on a polyethylene film is used instead of a primer layer. Expansion joints should be made along vertical structures and walls. To do this, use a damper tape or strips of expanded polystyrene, 1 cm thick. The material is fixed with an adhesive solution.

On the slides of the quick-setting mortar, guide profiles-beacons are installed. Maintain a distance from the walls - 20 cm, between them - about 1.5 m. Before fixing on the base, the profiles are lubricated with an anti-adhesive mixture if they are subsequently removed. Using the level, check the placement of beacons in one plane.

The solution prepared in a concrete mixer is evenly spread between the guides. The composition is stacked with surplus, so that it protrudes slightly above the level of the lighthouses... After tamping with a float, the surface is leveled with a rule.

The tool is moved in a zigzag manner. The rule is moved to yourself, removing the excess mixture. If shells remain in the finished area, they are immediately removed and the alignment is repeated.

When the solution has set, beacons should be removed. They work as carefully as possible so as not to damage the freshly laid structure. On semi-dry screeds, the profiles are removed 2-3 after installation. The resulting voids are filled with a cement-sand mortar. The surface is rubbed with a float, performing circular movements.

As a result, an even, slightly rough screed will form., which will ensure high adhesion of the finishing layers.

How to arrange expansion joints

When pouring large areas, it is necessary to cut intermediate expansion joints. The stage is carried out after grouting with a spatula, or later with a diamond disc.

Wall seams are made at the first stage of work along all vertical elements, including columns, stairs. The seam is made over the entire thickness of the structure, taking into account the stresses arising in the process of deformations and impact noises.

Intermediate seams divide the surface into smaller cards. Their purpose is to prevent cracking due to shrinkage of the drying structure.

Features of the work:

• the seam depth is selected based on the thickness of the screed and the presence of floor heating systems - most often it is 1/2 or 1/3 of the thickness of the screed;
• if reinforcement is provided, cutting is carried out between reinforcement meshes;
• intermediate expansion joints should divide the surface into cards with a side of 6 m, an area of ​​not more than 30 sq. m .;
• in long corridors, the width of the room is taken into account. The lower this figure, the more seams should be. The notches are made at a distance that is a multiple of 2 dimensions of the width of the corridor;
• seams are always arranged in places where a change in the thickness of the screed is provided and where different floor coverings will be joined. The tile joints must match the expansion joints. The seams under the laminate and parquet are left unfilled, including in the case of stone and tile coverings. Exceptions are terraces and any outdoor areas.

Seams of terraces and outdoor areas are filled with waterproof silicone sealants, adhesives

Subtleties of reinforcement

The need to implement this stage depends on the magnitude of the loads and the thickness of the structure. Reinforcement is required in thinner systems, 3.5-4 cm thick... To do this, take a steel mesh 10 * 10 or 15 * 15 cm.The diameter of the wire can be 3-4 mm.

The material can be placed on the spacer profiles. After installation, you should start laying the mortar. Concrete mixes reinforced with fibrous materials and ready-made gypsum mixes do not need to be reinforced with a mesh.

Determination of the level

It is recommended to determine the level of the screed at once on the entire floor, focusing on the thickness of the flooring, which will be laid later. To ensure that all floors are at the same level, the thickness of the structures can be different in individual rooms.

Work always starts where the structure will be thickest, say, in areas with underfloor heating. Underfloor heating screeds have a minimum thickness of 4 cm. When calculating the height in adjacent areas, the thickness of the topcoat is taken into account.

An exception may be areas where water can be bottled. Here the floor level should be about 1 cm lower than in other places. Accurate measurements should be a priority only if the installation of thresholds is planned.

Breaks in technology

Breaks are allowed after placing the mortar in each individual room. It is best to carry out the filling so that it protrudes beyond the threshold by a few centimeters. The layer is cut off in the place where the expansion joint will pass, then the remains of the mixture are removed from it. After a break, it is from here that you can continue the device in other rooms.

When preparing a solution, one should focus on its viability. Let's say a traditional concrete mortar should be laid within 120 minutes. If ready-made dry mixes are used, the pot life is indicated in the instructions. Usually, it is 60-120 minutes.

Work breaks should be based on the grout cycle. Classic concrete screeds are rubbed 8-10 hours after installation. Semi-dry - after 3-4 hours. In general, grouting is required only for the installation of roll coatings. Tiled materials like some surface roughness.

Care

In order for a traditional concrete screed to gain the required strength, after completion of work, you should take care of moistening. Spraying water is carried out within 7 days after pouring. The room where the structure is arranged must be closed so that the draft does not provoke too rapid drying.

It is reasonable to cover the finished surface with polyethylene film. This will increase humidification due to condensation that forms on the inside. In some cases, a layer of wet sawdust is spread over the surface.

As the strength builds up, the moisture level of the concrete will drop to 3%.

After a week, all films or sawdust are removed. You can ventilate the room.

If dismantling is required

Often, when working on ready-made concrete bases, it is necessary to dismantle the old screed. This is dictated by considerations of structural integrity and strength. Old screeds can flake off, crack, which is always transferred to fresh layers. In addition, the need for dismantling is due to too high loads on the floor slabs.

Removing the old structure is carried out using several methods:

• diamond drilling- dismantling is carried out by means of special installations. According to the technology, cylindrical holes are drilled in the thickness of the concrete and the screed is removed;
• diamond cutting- here they work as professional seam cutters. The equipment allows for dismantling if there is no reinforcement in the concrete layer and the thickness of the structure does not exceed 30 cm;
• shock method- the simplest and most economical option. It is efficient but labor intensive. The layer is removed using perforators and jackhammers.

After dismantling, sludge is inevitably formed, which is carried outside the work site. After that, the base is inspected for damage. If they are found, repairs are carried out.

Features of screeds for warm floors

When working with this type of construction, the placement of expansion joints is thought out in advance. They should be located between each section of the underfloor heating for the entire thickness of the screed. Damper tapes divide the area into cards, usually with an area of ​​3 * 3 m and are fixed before work is done.

Both traditional and semi-dry screeds work with underfloor heating.... But, the second option is more preferable, albeit expensive. The concrete is fed by a pneumatic pump, laying one by one on each card, delimited by a damper tape.

Concrete flooring on the ground

The technology is in demand in garages, basements, in a wide variety of outbuildings, in private residential buildings.

Before starting work, the requirements for the soil layer should be taken into account:

• the soil must be dry;
• the depth of the groundwater is at least 4-5 m;
• the device of the floor on moving soils is unacceptable.

The structure is installed in rooms operated (heated) in the winter. Otherwise, the soil will freeze and the screed will be deformed. It is better to start work after the completion of the construction of walls and roofs.

The construction of a concrete floor on the ground provides for special attention to waterproofing

The first stage of technology is marking

The task of this stage is to correctly determine the zero level.

To do this, do the following:

• 100 cm upwards recede from the bottom of the doorway. A mark is made on the adjacent wall;
• such marks are transferred along the entire perimeter and are connected into a single line;
• from the baseline, measure 100 cm down strictly vertically. Mark;
• the marks are transferred around the entire perimeter and a zero level is displayed;
• by moving the zero level to the required distance, you can set the optimal screed thickness;
• according to the zero level, dowels are driven in at the corners of the room, along which the chopping cord is pulled.

Cleaning and compaction of soil

If there is construction waste on the base, it is removed. Next, a sample of the upper soil layer is carried out. The technology implies the device of a multilayer structure, 30-35 cm thick, and it is to this thickness that the soil is dug. The reference point is the zero level.

Start tamping and leveling the base. They take a special vibrating plate for work. They work with the tool until they get a dense and even base, without depressions and grooves.

For additional leveling, strengthening, waterproofing of the structure, it makes sense to arrange a sand cushion. Average backfill thickness - 5 cm... The layer is moistened and rammed. Alternatively, lay a layer of clay with moistening and tamping, followed by a layer of sand. This solution will provide additional moisture protection.

Next, arrange a gravel layer. Its thickness varies within 5-10 cm. It must be rammed. Another sand layer of 10 cm is laid on it + compaction is carried out. If required, you can reinforce the pillow with another layer of crushed stone of 4-5 cm fraction and a finishing thin layer of sand. Each layer is always checked by level.

Moisture and thermal insulation device

To protect the concrete screed from moisture infiltration, special membranes with waterproofing properties or a dense polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 200 microns are used. The protection device is extremely simple. The material is laid out on the base with an approach to the walls above the design level of the structure. An overlap of 10-15 cm is required and the joints are glued with waterproof construction tape.

To organize the insulation layer, the following materials are used to choose from:

• isolon (in rolls);
• coarse claydite;
• Styrofoam;
• mineral wool slabs.

The rolled insulation is also laid with an overlap with the joints being smeared with bitumen mastic. Expanded clay is poured to the required thickness and compacted.

Foam mats and slabs or mineral wool are stacked apart, so that the seams overlap

Reinforcement of the screed along the ground

Since the construction is multi-layer, the reinforcement stage is mandatory. Steel or fiberglass stack can be used as the base material. Alternatively, you can take a reinforcing bar and tie it into a mesh.

The cell size depends on the design loads on the structure. For low - this is 20 * 20 cm, for medium - 15 * 15 cm, for high - 10 * 10 cm. Sheets are tied together with flexible metal wire.

The system must be placed in the thickness of concrete, so the installation is carried out using special supports - chairs. The height of the chairs should be 20-30 cm.

Installation of guides and formwork

According to the technology, further work cannot be carried out without installing the guides.

To do this, carry out the following:

• the base is divided into several cards 200 cm wide, the sections are separated by guides. A galvanized metal profile is taken as the main material;
• all profiles are installed strictly at the same level;
• fixation is carried out using slides of concrete mortar.

Formwork should be mounted between the guides. This will give you complete fill maps. Each section is sequentially filled with concrete. For formwork, water-resistant plywood sheets or boards are traditionally taken.

Before the start of the next stage of work, check the correctness of the installation of the guides with a level. If differences are found, the position of the beacons is changed... Otherwise, it will not work to make a flat concrete floor. The formwork elements are treated with a special compound, which will allow them to be easily removed later.

Pouring concrete

The concrete solution is poured according to pre-prepared maps. For work, it is convenient to use ready-made concrete, which is quickly fed and distributed over the base and allows you to get the most uniform and monolithic structure.

If a decision is made to independently prepare the mixture, use a concrete mixer. It is loaded with cement (M400-M500 by grade strength), sand in a ratio of 1: 2, then crushed stone is introduced - 4 parts and water is half of the amount of cement. The amount of mixing water may vary depending on the moisture content of the aggregate.... The mixture is processed in a concrete mixer until maximum homogeneity is obtained.

Work starts from the far corner. Several cards are filled out in one technological approach. The mortar is leveled with a shovel and compacted with vibrators. Then they work with the rule, moving it along the guides towards themselves.

When processing is complete, a day after pouring, the formwork is removed from the structure... The resulting voids are filled with a solution. The surface is covered with foil and regularly moistened with water.

Pouring a self-leveling mixture

The material is sealed with water and applied to the floor, starting from the far corner

Pouring a leveling compound will allow you to hide minor imperfections and get a perfectly flat surface. As a rule, ready-made dry mixes are used for work. Allocation is traditionally done using a rule. Further the composition is left until fully ripe, usually for 2-3 days... Actual times are indicated in the manufacturer's instructions.

Reinforcement of concrete floors

When the screed is ready, it makes sense to start hardening it, especially if the structure will be used in harsh conditions. So the surface will become resistant to mechanical, thermal and chemical stress. In practice, hardening with dry toppings and the introduction of special impregnations are most often used.

Impregnations, sealers are applied to new concrete 1-2 weeks after pouring... The formulations are spread over the surface by pouring and spread using a squeegee, rollers or spatulas. Half an hour after coating, chemical reactions and gelation begin.

To make the process more active, the floor is additionally moistened. When the surface is completely saturated, the remnants of the sealers are washed off with water, the screed is cleaned with a squeegee or a clean cloth. Further, the concrete is left until fully matured.

If a hardening method is chosen, such as applying toppings, corundum, quartz or metal fillers can be used. The work is carried out with the participation of special trowels. It is better to design the introduction of toppings in advance., since such manipulations oblige you to high-quality processing of the screed with vibrating screeds or deep vibrators. The formulation of the solution itself should not contain plasticizers and other additives.

For the first time, the hardener is applied after the initial setting, as a rule, 3-6 hours after pouring. The footprint should not fall into the layer by more than 5 mm. 2/3 of the composition is distributed along the screed with the help of special dosing trolleys. After the mixture has darkened, grout is carried out so that the topping can penetrate into the surface.

The remainder is introduced without interruption and then proceed in the same way. Finishing is carried out only after the concrete is sufficiently strong... It is easy to check by standing on the screed - the footprint of the shoe should not fall by more than 1 mm.

Once hardened, a topcoat can be applied, such as epoxy or polyurethane varnishes or resin based paints.

How to avoid basic mistakes

The most common screed defects are formed against the background of an illiterate preparation of a working solution. So, lime should not be added to the recipe... Although it will increase the plasticity of the mixture, it will significantly worsen the strength of the finished structure. It is unacceptable to use too liquid solution. Due to the excess water content, the system will dry for more than one month. You can count on lower strength, more shrinkage and cracking.

You should not save on leveling and use a cement-lime mortar that remained after the completion of the plastering of the walls. This layer will quickly fall off along with the finish flooring.

Due to a lack of moisture, the top layer will harden too quickly and the structure will not receive the required strength, so the floor should be moistened

Care should not be neglected.

Materials, equipment and tools for the construction of concrete floors

To ensure the continuity of the technological process, the entire set of materials and equipment must be at the construction site.

For the device of a concrete screed, the following materials will be required:

• cement- brand strength must correspond to M400-M500;
• sand- only high-quality quarry material is used. If required, it is sieved through a sieve. The use of river sand that has not undergone special treatment is unacceptable. This type has smooth grains of sand, which negatively affects the strength characteristics. This type is best used for backfilling a sand cushion on the ground;
• crushed stone or gravel- a classic component of concrete mix. The size of the fraction is selected based on the thickness of the screed;
• expanded clay- it is used in cases where it is necessary to provide additional thermal insulation. Instead of expanded clay, you can use slabs of mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. All materials are suitable for the construction of ready-made concrete slabs or soil;
• fiberglass- for additional reinforcement;
• steel reinforcing mesh with a mesh size corresponding to the design loads and a rod diameter of 6-8 mm + knitting wire. Instead of steel, you can use fiberglass or a simple reinforcing rod;
• galvanized metal profile- it is convenient to use a U-shaped profile working in plasterboard systems as guides. In some cases, the installation of beacons is carried out with the participation of a plaster T-shaped profile, but this is less convenient;
• polyethylene film- acts as a waterproofing layer and serves as a covering material for the care of a freshly laid screed;
• leveling compounds- can be used for final leveling of the coating.

Equipment set:

• concrete mixer or powerful construction mixer - used to prepare working solutions;
• pneumatic blowers, mortar pumps - required for mechanical filling of a semi-dry screed;
• vibrating screeds - serve to compact the laid solution;
• level, usually a ruler, is a tool for measuring, marking, checking evenness;
• clean containers, trowels, shovels, spatulas, trowels;
• ramming machines - used to compact intermediate layers in multi-layer screeds;
• jackhammers, rock drills - are used to dismantle old structures.

Safety engineering

Concrete work requires compliance with general construction requirements and safety standards. Only adults who have undergone training, instruction, medical examination and who have the skills of safe work are allowed to use the technology. Cement and other building materials can irritate the skin and mucous membranes. in case of prolonged contact, which obliges the use of overalls, personal protective equipment. All electrical equipment located on the site must be checked for serviceability and grounded.

Cost of work

The price of work on the installation of concrete floors depends on the technology used, the type of existing base, the amount of work.

On average, we can talk about the following prices:

• removal of old concrete screed - from 220 r / m2;
• preparation and dedusting of the base - from 105 r / m2;
• repair of the base - from 140 rubles / m2;
• reinforcement - from 175 r / m2;
• filling the screed up to 30 mm - 450 r / m2;
• filling the screed from 50 mm - from 550 r / m2;
• self-filling layer device - from 315 r / m2.

Concrete floor rates are subject to seasonal and climatic conditions

conclusions

Concrete flooring technology is an effective solution that is most in demand in modern construction. Laying on concrete slabs or on the ground helps to create a durable surface with a long service life. However, in order to obtain a high-quality result, one should not save on materials and a professional approach to work.

The device of a concrete industrial floor in all technological details is shown in the video:

When building a house is started, the question of floors arises first of all, since both the strength of the coating and the preservation of heat in the rooms, and hence the health of the residents, will depend on them. The device of floors in a private house can be carried out in several ways, but you need to consider each of them in order to evaluate the pros and cons of each option.

• Wood has always been considered the most popular and comfortable floor for a home, since wood, unlike concrete, is itself a warm material.
• Concrete floors are more durable than wood, but require good insulation, so they are often combined with wooden floors.
• Screed or floating floors were not so popular with home owners in the past, but recently, many are increasingly turning to this option, since it is simple to install, and it can be done in literally one day.

Whichever gender is chosen, it has specific features of your device, depending on the design of the house, on the area on which it should be laid, the difficulties and nuances of installation, and even on the financial capabilities of homeowners.

In order for the floor in a private house to be warm, and it was pleasant to walk on it, each of its types requires insulation, therefore it is necessarily included in the plan of general arrangement works.

Wooden floors can be made in different ways, but they are always fixed on logs, which are made from beams laid on a concrete base, support pillars, or embedded in the walls of the house. The latter option is only possible in a room with a small area, for example, a narrow corridor or a small hallway.

In addition, wooden floors are subdivided into one-layer and two-layer, i.e. with subfloor.

Support pillar floors

The floors on the support pillars are made in cases where it is not possible to connect the logs to the walls of the house or this is not enough for the strength of the overall coating. The lag system, arranged only on the support pillars, is called "floating".

"Floating" floor on support pillars

The floors according to this system are arranged as follows:

1. The first thing to do is to dig holes in the underground space of the house to install brick pillars. Such mini-pits are marked at a distance of 70-100 centimeters from each other. The depth of the holes must be at least fifty centimeters. The size of the section will depend on the height of the supports being erected, the higher the pillar should be, the greater its width and thickness.
2. At the bottom of the dug holes, crushed stone, gravel or sand, at least twenty centimeters thick, is poured, then filled with water and carefully compacted. The better the bottom is rammed, the more reliable the support for the lag system will be, so this process must be carried out conscientiously.
3. Red brick pillars are laid on the rammed pillow, or formwork is arranged, reinforcement is installed, and a cement-gravel mixture is poured. If the pillars are made of concrete, then their size should be at least 40 × 40, and preferably 50 × 50 cm.
4. On top of the pillars, to a depth of 10-15 centimeters, threaded rods are embedded or anchors are installed, on which the floor beams will subsequently be fixed.
5. It should be noted that if a building or a room has a small area, then support pillars can be arranged only along the perimeter of the future room, but in this case, massive beams must be laid on them.
6. After the pillars are ready, waterproofing material is laid on their top. Better if it is three to four layers of roofing material.
7. Holes are drilled in the beams through which the fastening pins will pass.
8. Beams from a bar or log are laid on the waterproofing, they are put on pins and set in level, leveling with the help of wooden lining boards.When the base of the floor is exposed, it is better to fix the lining to the bars with the help of nails, and the bars themselves must also be fixed by screwing them to the posts with nuts through a wide washer. If the pins are too high, it is cut off with a sander.
9. It is best to cover the surface of the underground with expanded clay, in a layer of 15-20 centimeters - it will well contain moisture that can come from the ground, and will additionally insulate the floors.
10. In order for the floor arranged in this way to be warm, it is better to make it two-layer, especially since in this option all the conditions have been created for this. If it is supposed to immediately lay a floorboard on the beams, then the underground must be completely filled with expanded clay, leaving a distance of no more than ten centimeters between it and the wooden covering.

Rough floor

A sub-floor can be arranged in several ways. The choice of a specific method will depend on the insulation material.

• If slag or expanded clay is used as insulation, then the subfloor is made solid, from boards that are nailed to the lower cut of the beams. The gaps between the boards are coated with clay, diluted to a not very thick state. After the clay dries, you can fill in the cells with insulation, on top of which a vapor barrier film is laid.
• If the floors are insulated with mineral wool, then the boards are nailed to the underside of the beams at a distance of 50 centimeters from each other.

• A vapor barrier is attached to the beams and to the lower boards and thin plywood is laid. Insulation is laid on it, which is also closed on top with a vapor barrier, attached to the beams using a stapler and brackets.

• Then logs-bars measuring 10 × 3 centimeters are nailed onto the beams, on which floorboards or thick plywood will be laid.

Video: a clear example of installing a subfloor

Wooden floor on the ground

Arrange a wooden floor and on the ground. There is a scheme for this, focusing on which you can draw up a work plan.

• The soil is underground, it is necessary to compact it well, and arrange on it a pillow of sand, gravel or crushed stone of the middle fraction, 20 to 40 centimeters thick, and then compact it again.
• Rigid waterproofing, for example, roofing felt, is laid on the tamped pillow. If desired, you can lay a reinforcing mesh under it, for greater strength. The waterproofing must extend to the walls by at least 10 centimeters.
• On the waterproofing, bricks or concrete blocks are placed on the mortar, which will later become a support for the beams. The supports are placed so that the beams are at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other (standard width of the insulation).
• The first layer of insulation is laid around the bricks - it can be polystyrene of 50 ÷ 100 mm or mineral wool.
• Wooden beams are installed on bricks, or better - on concrete blocks, they are leveled, and fixed with a corner.
• Between the laid beams, for greater insulation, you can additionally lay mineral wool slabs.
• On top of the insulation, cash yeah fix the vapor barrier film.
• Then a floorboard is laid, which is fixed with carnations, carefully driven into the side of it.
• The board is laid at a distance one and a half centimeters from the wall to provide ventilation.

Wooden floor on a concrete screed

When installing the floor on the concrete screed or slab, logs can be laid directly on concrete or, if it is necessary to raise the floors to a small height of 10-20 centimeters, on threaded studs.

When laying floors on concrete, you cannot save on logs - they must be massive enough, then the floors will be reliable and non-creaky.

It should be noted right away that with such a floor device, it is imperative to make it two-layer, i.e. with the above-described subfloor, otherwise it will be very cold.

• First, a preliminary marking of the location of the lags is made on the concrete pavement. They should be installed at a distance of 60 centimeters, taking into account the future insulation. Marking is done by beating off the line with color.
• Further, on the broken lines, marks are made at a distance of 30-40 centimeters.
• At these points, holes are drilled into which studs are installed with clamps located approximately at the same height from the floor - they will hold the beams.
• In the beams themselves, at a measured distance corresponding to the location of the studs mounted into the surface of the concrete, holes are drilled, after which the beam is put on the studs.
• Then, using a level, the clamps are twisted in one direction or the other, bringing all the beams to the ideal horizontal, controlling its level.
• Nuts are tightened on top of the studs, driving them into the prepared recess, and the excess part of the studs is cut off with a grinder.
• The next stages are the construction of the subfloor, insulation and flooring of the clean floor.

Fastening the lag directly to the screed

Arrange logs on the concrete floor not difficult at all, and you can do it yourself, having the right tools.

• Stripes are beaten off on the concrete pavement, also at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other, but from the wall they should be at a distance of the thickness of the insulation (150-200 mm).
• Further, with the help of anchoring, the logs are securely installed on the concrete floor. In this case, the bars can be of any height - this will depend on the desire of the owner of the house and on the ability to raise the floors to the desired height.
• Then, it would be nice to lay a thin insulation, for example, polyethylene foam, which can be fixed to the joists with staples.
• Along the wall, all over strips cut from mineral wool mats are installed around the perimeter of the room.
• Next, laid on the covered polyethylene insulation plates material or expanded clay of small or medium fraction is filled up.

• From above, it is imperative to close the insulation with a vapor barrier film.

• Next, a floorboard or thick plywood is laid, and a decorative coating can also be laid on top.

Concrete floor

The concrete floor is also arranged in different ways, but, in general, they are similar in technology, with minor deviations or additions.

Concrete pavement is mainly made in houses with concrete or brick walls, and it is started after the walls are removed and the roof is covered.

• If necessary, the top layer of soil is selected in order to arrange a sand cushion in its place, which should be 10-15 centimeters. It needs to be well tamped by pouring water.
• The next layer is crushed stone of the middle fraction, which also needs to be tamped. The thickness of its backfill must be at least 10 centimeters.
• Next, arrange a rough screed. It can be made insulated by adding expanded clay or foam crumbs to the solution. In addition, the solution in this case can be mixed not on sand, but on gravel. The screed is leveled and left to harden.
• On the finished solidified rough screed, you need to spread the waterproofing, which should be 15-20 centimeters on the walls. For it, you can take roofing material or an ordinary thick plastic wrap - the main thing is that the material is laid tightly, with gluing overlaps.

• Insulation is poured onto the waterproofing - expanded clay, or extruded high-density polystyrene foam is laid, the thickness of which is chosen at the request of the owner of the house and depending on the climatic conditions of the region where the house is built.
• A metal reinforcing mesh is installed on top of the insulation, and then a finishing screed is poured into which insulation material can also be added. In order for the screed to be even, and there are no floor height differences in the room, it should be done on exposed construction level of beacons.

• If desired, additional insulation can be made on such a coating. On the finished screed, you can lay wooden floors, lay laminate linoleum or ceramic tiles. Nothing prevents you from organizing a "warm floor" system.

Dry screed floors

There is nothing difficult in the construction of floors using a dry screed - it is done much faster than a concrete or wooden floor. That is why in recent years it has been used more and more often.

The main thing in its installation is a high-quality homogeneous bulk material. For such a floor, perlite, quartz or silica sand, slags or fine-grained expanded clay are used. These materials are not only easy to use, but also perfectly perform the task of soundproofing and thermal insulation. With a good distribution of bulk material over the area of ​​the room, it almost does not shrink, therefore, with a conscientious performance of the work, the bulk floors will last a long time.

Leveling loose mix

• To keep the floors in shape, and the dry screed does not crumble, special bulkheads from boards are installed.
• On top of the dry screed, slabs of moisture-resistant HWP, plywood or other sheet materials are laid. The most important thing is to set the first plate perfectly evenly - this is done using a level. The next boards to be laid will be aligned with the first. The laid material does not need to be pressed into the dry mixture, but it must be moved very carefully over the surface. The evenness of the stacking of sheets during the entire work is controlled using a level.
in areas that are subject to the greatest stress, for example, in walkways.
• On the gypsum fiber sheets have folds, with the help of which they are connected to each other when laying them on a dry screed.
• The sheets are stacked with an offset of half the sheet, by analogy with brickwork - this will increase the stability of the coating.
• Having laid the first layer of slabs on a dry screed, they usually move on to the flooring of another one - it will make the floor more durable and stable. If the floor is used gypsum fiber sheets, then on the first layer a fold is cut off from them, so that they are tightly adjacent to each other and the bulk material cannot get between the first and second layers.
• The second layer of sheets is always laid perpendicular to the bottom sheets.
• The laid top layer of sheets is fixed with bottom c using glue and additionally fastened with self-tapping screws. They are necessarily twisted under load - for this it is enough just to stand on the top sheet, and the weight of the master will serve as the necessary load.
• It is not recommended to join the sheets exactly along the line of doorways - it is necessary that the sheet be distributed in this place to both rooms.
sealed with a waterproofing material such as a sealant.
• If such floors are arranged in a room where the humidity is high, the entire surface of the floor is treated with a coating waterproofing before laying the decorative coating.

Thus, it is obvious that the floor in a private house on a dry screed can be mounted quite easily, if you approach the work seriously, do it carefully and take your time. Rush absolutely inappropriate- in terms of the timing of work, such technology under any circumstances is many times superior to any other.

The concrete subfloor is currently perhaps the most widespread both in residential and industrial construction. It is suitable for almost any topcoat or can, after appropriate processing, be used independently. Its main advantages, subject to the casting technology, are high strength, resistance to destruction, durability of use. It is not surprising that when conducting private construction or when renovating an apartment, in the overwhelming majority of cases, homeowners choose exactly this technology for arranging the floor.

Is it worth inviting construction specialists, or is a do-it-yourself concrete floor screed quite an affordable process for the average home owner? This publication is devoted to the answers to these questions.

Types of concrete floor screeds

Concrete floor screeds can have different designs, be made using slightly different technologies and are intended for different purposes.

• So, they can serve exclusively for leveling the floor, performed before installing the topcoat. Powerful screeds serve as a reliable base in rooms where increased mechanical stress is required. they can also perform the functions of ensuring the required thermal balance, acting, for example, as powerful heat accumulators in floor heating systems. Communication systems are often closed with ties. Can they are used and in order to create a certain slope in those rooms where it is needed.
• Concrete screeds differ in the number of layers:

- They can be single-layer, that is, poured simultaneously to the entire design height. This is usually used in industrial, utility or auxiliary non-residential premises, where no increased requirements are imposed on the evenness of the floor.

- Multi-layer screeds are poured in several stages. Typically, the first layer serves as a rough base, while the top creates a level surface for further flooring work. This approach is also used in cases where the total thickness of the required screed reaches too large a size, and it is more expedient to perform it layer by layer.

• The screeds also differ in the degree of adhesion to the base:

- The bonded screeds have direct contact with the base. Of course, with such a pouring technology, the maximum homogeneity of materials and their high adhesion to each other should be ensured. Such coatings are characterized by good strength properties in terms of withstanding high mechanical loads. However, the condition of the surface layer will largely depend on the moisture level of the substrate. Such screeds are mainly performed on dry floor slabs on the floors of buildings.

- In the event that the base does not have sufficient waterproofing, use a sleep screed to a separating layer. An interlayer of waterproofing material (roofing material, polymer film, coating composition) becomes an obstacle to moisture penetration from below, and the screed itself does not have contact with the base. With this technology, the layer of the mortar to be poured cannot be less than 30 mm and, as a rule, needs reinforcement.

A similar technology is often used when installing a screed on the ground, for example, in garages, sheds, basements, on the first floors of houses without basements. They also resort to it in rooms with high levels of humidity.

- Where reinforced thermal insulation of the floor is required or there is a need for sound insulation, floating screeds are used. In this case, a concrete solution is poured over a layer of insulation of one type or another. The screed turns into a completely independent structure - a slab that is not connected either with the base or with the walls of the room. The minimum fill thickness in this case is at least 50 mm, and the reinforcement of the screed becomes a prerequisite.

The moisture content of such a screed is absolutely independent of the state of the base, a good insulation and effect is achieved. Disadvantages - excessively large thickness, and therefore - the load on the floor. Usually, such screeds are used only on the first floors of residential or auxiliary buildings, especially if the filling is carried out on the ground.

• Screeds can be performed with a homogeneous solution or include certain fillers:

- The addition of a cement-sand mortar of expanded polystyrene chips significantly increases the thermal insulation qualities of the coating.

Typically, such screeds require a second, reinforcing and leveling layer.

- Where screeds of large thickness or with increased thermal insulation qualities are required, expanded clay is added to the concrete solution.

Expanded clay concrete has sufficient strength, but for the flooring of some coatings, it will also be necessary to pour the face layer from a conventional solution. But ceramic tiles can be laid directly on such a base.

Screeds with micro-reinforcement show good performance fiberglass... This technology makes it possible to dramatically increase the strength of the coating to mechanical stress, to tension, bending.

Such screeds usually do not crack, they are less susceptible to shrinkage during solidification, and they have less dust formation. They are great for underfloor heating systems.

• the floor can be made according to the classic, "wet" technology, or semi-dry. Semi-dry screed is a relatively new business, and not all more ready to try it out in practice. In addition, it requires special professionalism in the preparation of the mortar mixture, in laying out, compacting and leveling the mortar. Most home builders use the tried and tested wet technology, which will be discussed later in this article. However, if you are limited in time, consider inviting specialists in laying a semi-dry screed. When choosing a contractor, pay attention to the technology used - the presence of a mechanized supply of the composition will ensure cleanliness in the apartment. For example, the EUROSTROY 21 VEK company is engaged in laying a semi-dry screed using the latest technology (the company's website www.prestigehouse.ru).

Solutions for pouring concrete screed

It is quite natural that, if necessary, pouring a concrete screed, first of all, you will need to decide on the type of solution. In this matter, some options are possible.

According to the existing SNiP canons, the minimum strength of an ordinary concrete screed, regardless of the type of its further facing, must be at least M-150 (the coating can withstand a force of 150 kg / cm²). If used self-leveling jellied composition, here the requirements are even higher - from M-200. In accordance with these requirements, the solution must be selected.

1. The "classic" concrete mortar used for pouring a conventional floor screed is a cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1: 3. This "recipe" is time-tested and fully justifies itself. However, there are several nuances, without which you can easily spoil the future screed:

• For the preparation of concrete, ordinary "washed" river sand, which has not undergone special treatment, must not be used. The frozen surface will not differ in strength, it will begin to crumble over time, crumble and crack. The fact is that the grains of sand have outlines smoothed from prolonged exposure to water, failing to provide adequate clutch. In this regard, quarry sand is much better, with its faceted grains of irregular shape. True, when choosing, you need to carefully look so that a large amount of clay inclusions does not come across in it - this will also reduce the strength of the screed.

The presence of a small amount of the gravel component of the fine fraction will not affect the strength properties of the screed. However, if a flat surface is required, it will be necessary to sift the sand through a sieve.

• An optimally selected amount of water becomes a very important condition for the strength and durability of the poured screed. It is no secret that some novice home builders, trying to make it easier for themselves to pour and level concrete, use an excess amount of water, getting semi-liquid, easily spreadable solution. By doing this, they lay a "delayed-action mine" - at the exit the screed will not have the required qualities.

First, an overly liquid solution will definitely shrink when it cures. A flat surface, in accordance with the set level, is not to be expected in this case. And secondly, a violation of the cement-water balance will necessarily reduce the strength properties of the hardened concrete. The surface is loose, unbound, with increased dust formation.

There are, of course, specially the amount of water in concrete solution, but they are usually adhered to by the technologists of enterprises for the production of reinforced concrete structures and large mortar units.In conditions of home construction, they often rely on their own experience, intuition and common sense. In addition, it is very difficult to accurately calculate the amount of water and the fact that it largely depends on the moisture content of the filler. The sand can be wet, heavy - and this is also water, which will participate in the process of preparing the solution.

Ideally, the concrete solution should turn out to be dense, but plastic enough, so that when it is poured and leveled, no air voids remain in the floor. You can roughly focus on the following ratio - a liter of water per five kilograms of cement-sand dry mix.

It is important to choose the right "golden mean" so that the solution is both dense and plastic

It is very difficult to qualitatively mix the screed solution by hand, using a shovel. It is better to use a concrete mixer or a construction mixer of sufficiently high power for this. First, the dry components are mixed in the desired ratio (it is possible - with a little moisture), and then very carefully, in portions, add water.

An important condition for the quality of the future concrete screed is the purity of the water. It is forbidden to use industrial water containing fats, oils, oil residues, etc. Also, you can not use dirty oily containers to carry water to the place of mixing concrete.

2. The modern assortment of building materials on sale makes it possible to significantly simplify the process of pouring the screed. For these purposes, ready-made dry building mixtures can be used.

Compared to using the usual cement-sand mixture, this technology has a number of advantages:

• In terms of strength and other performance indicators, screeds made from ready-made mixtures are in no way inferior to ordinary concrete, and can even surpass it in a number of parameters.
• To prepare the solution, you do not need powerful equipment or hard manual labor - a mixer or even a powerful electric drill (perforator) with an appropriate attachment is enough.
• In principle, there are no problems with the dosage of components - everything is already provided for by the manufacturer, and the master only has to strictly follow the instructions for preparing the solution.
• Many mortars made from such mixtures are significantly lighter, which reduces floor loading, reduces transportation costs and makes it easier to lift materials to floors.

• It is possible to select the required composition for specific operating conditions. So, there are solutions for rough or leveling screeds, for the "warm floor" system and for rooms with high humidity. The special plasticizers or microfibers added to their composition not only increase the strength characteristics of the coating, but also reduce the time for complete curing of the screed, reducing the overall duration of construction work.
• What is very important for beginners - working with such formulations is simple and does not require particularly high skills. The main thing is to follow the recommendations for pouring technology, which are necessarily attached to any batch of material.

All this will be true only if a high-quality dry mixture is purchased. Alas, there are a lot of fakes or low-grade mixtures on the building materials market in this segment. It is best to choose formulations from reputable manufacturers, be sure to check the certificate so as not to run into counterfeit products. It is also important to check the shelf life of the material - it is limited, and an expired mixture can significantly lose its quality.

The only drawback of this approach to filling the screed is that the price for it may turn out to be slightly higher than with the independent production of the solution. Well, convenience and quality come at a price.

Prices for various types of screeds and self-leveling floors

Screeds and self-leveling floors

Surface preparation for pouring concrete screed

The surface for pouring the screed is prepared in different ways, based on the conditions:

• If the floor will be laid on the ground, for example, in a private house without a fall or basement, then the work is carried out in following sequence:

- The soil is selected to a depth of 500 mm.

A pillow of sand is poured, 100 mm thick, carefully rammed. A gravel layer is poured over it in the same way.

- Rough pouring with concrete is made with the addition of expanded clay to a height of 150 — 200 mm - for thermal insulation of the floor surface.

- After the base has solidified, it must waterproof- roofing material or dense plastic wrap to exclude the ingress of ground moisture from below. The waterproofing material must come out on the walls on a height slightly higher than the height of the planned screed. If necessary, it will be possible to fill in another layer of insulation from above, and then pour in a reinforced finishing screed.

• In apartments, first of all, it is necessary to remove the old screed. This is done for several reasons:

- Firstly, the old screed does not guarantee integrity, as it can peel off, crack, and these deformations will be transmitted to the newly poured layer.

- Secondly, do not forget about the maximum permissible loads on the floor slabs. So, in serial high-rise buildings of an old building, the permissible load of the order of 400 kg per square meter is static and 150 kg is dynamic. And the west of one square meter of concrete screed, 50 mm thick, approaches 100 kg. Therefore, all work related to the thickening of the screed will have to be coordinated with the design organizations, and it is far from the fact that such a permit will be obtained.

- And thirdly, the height of the canvases in apartments is usually not so significant that one could afford to greatly raise the floor level.

The old screed is dismantled with a hammer drill, but very carefully to prevent destruction or damage to the floor slab. The remains of chipped concrete are removed, and then a thorough cleaning and dust removal of the surface is carried out.

• If a connected screed is planned, then it is necessary to thoroughly clean the existing recesses, cut cracks or cracks to a width of at least 5 mm so that the concrete solution can freely penetrate into them when pouring.
• If the screed is floating or on a separating layer, then all flaws must be immediately repaired. Do not leave voids under a layer of waterproofing - condensation can accumulate there, and these areas of high humidity are likely to become a "problem area".

Sealing of defects is carried out with a repair compound, epoxy putty or ordinary concrete mortar. In the case of large defects, polyurethane foam can sometimes be used.

The corners between the walls and the floor are especially carefully checked and repaired - water from the concrete solution when pouring the screed can penetrate deep into the ceiling or even leak to the neighbors below.

• Then, in any case, the floor surface should be treated with a penetrating primer. Such a measure will additionally remove dust from the surface of the slab and improve its adhesion to the poured concrete. In addition, the overlap will not actively absorb moisture from the solution. This is extremely important. Lack of water in the raw concrete layer adjacent to the base will lead to incomplete maturation of the cement stone, the screed will flake off or and collapse under even not the most significant loads.

The soil is poured over the surface in strips and evenly spread with a roller. In hard-to-reach places, such as in corners, it is better to use a brush.

• An elastic damper tape is glued along the perimeter of the walls. It will act as a compensator for expansion of the concrete screed, which will prevent deformation or cracking. In addition, the screed should under no circumstances come into contact with vertical structures, be they walls, partitions or columns.

• If the screed is on a separating layer, then at first the entire surface of the overlap is covered with a dense polyethylene film, at least 0.2 mm thick. The strips are laid with an overlap of at least 100 mm. The joints must be glued with waterproof construction tape. It is necessary to try very carefully to lay the film in the corners so that there are no strong wrinkles and folds - there may be air "pockets". The edges of the film on the walls should be 5 ÷ 10 mm higher than the planned screed - then it will be easy to cut them off.

Schematically - a waterproofing film and a damping tape for a screed on a separating layer

After the polyethylene has been laid, the damper tape is glued in the same way as mentioned above.

Beacon system and reinforcement

In order to achieve the horizontal screed and its required height, it is necessary to create a system of beacons along which the leveling of the concrete solution will be carried out.

Definition of zero level

It is very good if the farm has or has the opportunity to take it from friends. In this case, the work will be much easier - it will be much easier to beat off the horizontal stripes on the walls and control the level of the guides.

If this is not possible, then beacons can be set up just as well using a water level and a regular building level.

The water level consists of two cylindrical transparent vessels with the same scale applied, connected by a long elastic thin hose. According to the physical law of communicating vessels, the liquid level in them is always at the same height from the horizon. Thus, having made one mark at a certain level, it is possible to transfer it with high precision to other surfaces within the length of the flexible hose.

Begin marking by determining the zero level of the future screed. To do this, first of all, you need to draw a base horizontal line. This is done as follows:

• The estimated highest corner of the room is visually determined. On the wall in this corner, a mark is made at an arbitrary height. It is better, of course, to make it so that it is as convenient as possible to work, for example, one and a half meters from the floor.

• With the help of the water level, this mark is transferred to all walls of the room. The distance between the risks should allow you to connect them with a line using the existing ruler (you can use a long building level or a clean rule).
• The drawn line should go along the entire perimeter of the room and close at one point - this will indicate the correctness of the measurements.
• Measurements are made from the applied baseline to the floor surface. Measurement points are usually every 0, 5 m... it is imperative to make sure that the measurement is carried out strictly vertically. The values ​​obtained must be written down (on a piece of paper or even on the wall with a pencil).

The measurement point that will give the minimum height of this distance will correspond to the highest part of the base.

• The thickness of the future screed is subtracted from the obtained value at the highest point (minimum - 30 mm). For example, the minimum height is 1420 mm. We subtract the thickness of the screed (30 mm) and we get 1390 mm. This is the distance from the plotted reference line to zero.
• Now it will be easy to draw the entire line of the zero level around the perimeter of the room - for this you need to measure the obtained value from the base down, mark the points and connect them with a straight line. To simplify the work, you can make a rail - a template and quickly transfer the marks from the baseline. After connecting them, the main line of the zero level will be obtained.
• In construction practice, it is rare, but it still happens when the floor level in the center of the room is slightly higher than that of the walls. This should be checked by pulling the line to zero level between opposite walls and measuring the height from it to the floor. This check should be done in several places. In the case when it is revealed that there is a hill in the center, it will be necessary to shift the zero level upwards in order to ensure the minimum permissible screed thickness over the entire area of ​​the room.

Marking for the beacon system

It is advisable to make markings for beacons and guides immediately after breaking off the zero level, guided by the following principles:

• The orientation of the guides should correspond to the intended direction of the most convenient filling of the screed. This is usually done along the room, from the far wall towards the exit.
• It happens that, due to the complexity of the configuration of the room, it will be necessary to change the direction of the fill in a certain area. This should also be taken into account immediately when marking the beacon lines.
• The distance between the wall and the parallel guide closest to it is usually kept no more than 250 - 300 mm. If you leave it large, then a poorly aligned area or even a failure may form along the wall, which will require additional intervention later.

• The distances between adjacent guides are not particularly governed by... The main thing is that the rule for leveling, installed on them, protrudes from both sides by about 200 mm. You should not spread the guides too much - in the center between them, after shrinkage of the hardened concrete, rather large gaps may appear.
• I distribute the guide lines across the width of the room, usually at the same distance from one another.

How beacons and zero guides are set

Previously, for the beacon system, various scrap materials were used as guides, for example, wooden blocks or unnecessary pipes. Today, metal profiles are mainly used for these purposes.

• So, galvanized U-shaped profiles from plasterboard systems show themselves very well. They are resistant to deflection and create a reliable "rail" for rule work.
• Plaster profiles are very popular, although they are not without some disadvantages. They have a stiffening rib, but on long stretches they can still bend when working as a rule, so when using them, the number of support points must be increased.
• In some cases, you can do without using profiles altogether.

There are many ways to install a beacon, and it is impossible to consider everything. Let's dwell on just a few of them.

• One of the most accurate and uncomplicated ones is using self-tapping screws.

- At the far end of the room, at a distance of 250 - 300 mm from the corner between the opposite walls, a strong cord is stretched strictly at the zero level (for example, a fishing line or a thick nylon thread). It is important to stretch it to the maximum so that there is no sagging in the center.

- At the intersection of the line of the extended cord with the line closest to the wall, directing to semi drilled a hole where a plastic dowel is hammered in and a self-tapping screw is screwed in. With the help of a screwdriver, it is screwed in so that the top edge of its head exactly coincides with the zero level.

- A similar operation is repeated in the opposite, closest to the exit, side of the room.

- Two self-tapping screws, defining the line of the guide, are interconnected by a tightly stretched cord, so that it passes along the top of their caps.

- On this segment, holes are marked and drilled for dowels, distributing them evenly so that an interval of 350 ÷ 400 mm is maintained between them.

- Self-tapping screws are screwed into the dowels until their caps coincide with the stretched cord. It is imperative that a check is carried out using the building level - if necessary, you can make the required adjustments.

- In the same way, a line of self-tapping screws is made on the opposite guide, and then on the intermediate ones. In this case, the check should be carried out in all directions - longitudinal, transverse and diagonal.

- After all the lines have reached the same zero level, the stretched cords are removed. A thick concrete solution is prepared. It is laid out in small slides along the line of screwed in self-tapping screws. Then a U-shaped profile is put on top and pressed into the solution. The transverse flange of the profile should rest against the head of the self-tapping screw. It is important that the profile "sat down" evenly on both sides, without distortions.

Installation and fixation of metal profiles - guides

- After the mortar has set and securely fixes the profiles in the installed position, you can proceed to pouring the screed.

With plaster profiles it turns out to be a little more complicated - it is more difficult to fix them on the heads of the screws. For these purposes, special fasteners can be used - "ears" that are put on self-tapping screws, and their petals are pressed against the side shelves of the profile.

Video: placing beacons using screws and fasteners- " eared»

Another subtlety is that plaster profiles also have their own height, and this must also be taken into account when setting the self-tapping screws to the zero level.

In addition, much more solution for fixing will be required - flesh to the point that I resort to laying out even a solid shaft, into which the profile is embedded with an emphasis on the caps of the screws.

• Some craftsmen are accustomed to do without metal profiles at all.

— Exposed self-tapping beacons they tied with a thin wire, thereby creating a kind of reinforcing cage. Then, a slightly excessive amount of solution is laid out along the entire line, so that the resulting shaft is slightly above the zero level.

- When the mortar begins to set, a guide plane is formed. Using the rule, the upper edge of this shaft is compared and smoothed down to the caps of the screws.

- After hardening, excellent guides will be obtained, along which it is quite possible to work as a rule, and then they will enter the structure of the poured screed.

• If the screed is made on the wall, then the self-tapping method becomes inapplicable - it is impossible to break the tightness of the film, and in addition, there should be no rigid adhesion of the new screed to the base. In this case, you will have to tinker more, laying out the slides of the solution and precisely inserting the guides at the zero level along the stretched cords.

To speed up the readiness of the lighthouse system, tile glue is often used instead of the usual solution - its curing time is much shorter. But gypsum compositions are unacceptable. Firstly, they practically do not shrink, unlike cement ones. Secondly, gypsum compositions have completely different indicators of water absorption, adhesion, strength, plasticity, etc. We can say with absolute certainty that there will be bumps on the screed in the places where the lighthouses are located.

Nuances of screed reinforcement

Of course, this measure is useful, especially with thick screeds. Used for this, most often, a metal mesh made of galvanized steel wire with cells from 50 to 100 mm - it can be purchased ready-made in stores. Only when placing it, very many make a serious mistake.

If you look at the numerous photographs on the Internet, you can see on them the mesh laid directly on the floor slab or on the waterproofing layer. There are many doubts about the usefulness of such reinforcement. Ideally, for the reinforcement belt to play its role, it should be located in the thickness of the mortar to be poured, approximately in the middle of the height of the screed.

For this, you can purchase special polymer coasters. However, it will not be enough ore to make supports from wire or even to raise the mesh on the lining from pieces of broken tiles or fragments of an old concrete screed. Under no circumstances should wooden linings be used.

Obviously, it is necessary to install the reinforcing grid before setting the guides. Most often, the installation of a system of beacons and fittings is carried out in parallel, and the mesh can also be fixed on those slides of cement into which metal profiles are embedded.

Filling the screed

Oddly enough, but the process of pouring the screed itself looks, in the series of all technological operations, probably the most uncomplicated. If all the preparatory work is done correctly, then this stage will not be difficult.

• For normal pouring and hardening of the screed, the optimum temperature is from 15 to 25 degrees. It is allowed to carry out work at lower temperatures (but not lower than +5), but the period of concrete curing will increase significantly. In too hot weather, it is also better to refrain from pouring - = the top layer can dry out quickly and crack. He does not like screed and drafts, although the access of fresh air cannot be completely blocked.
• It is best, of course, to work together - one is preparing the concrete solution, and the second is directly pouring and leveling the screed. The technology of mixing the solution has already been described above.
• Work is carried out from the far corner of the room, gradually moving towards the exit. It is necessary to try to fill it within one working day - so the screed will be as homogeneous and durable as possible. If for some reason this is not possible, then the floor surface is divided into sections in advance (they are called fill cards) with the installation of jumpers between them.
• in excess, spreads it between the guides, so that its layer is 15 - 20 mm above the zero level. Initial distribution is done with a trowel or shovel. It is imperative to watch out so that there is no empty seats- this often happens under the guides, under the rods fittings or in the corners. It is necessary to achieve maximum compaction of the concrete solution, the release of air bubbles from it. To do this, you can carry out "bayonetting" - the solution is pierced with a shovel or trowel before leveling.
• Further on on the the governing rules are established. With translational and transverse zigzag movements, the solution is leveled to the level of the guides, so that an even smooth surface is obtained.

If the sand has not been sifted and large fragments (pebbles or shells) remain in it, then certain difficulties may arise - these inclusions can leave furrows and you will have to suffer a lot, removing them and smoothing out irregularities in order to bring the surface to an ideal state.

The concrete solution is added as needed so that the work goes on continuously. Excess mortar at the end of filling the room is carefully removed.

Video: a clear example of pouring a screed over lighthouses

After the filling is finished, you need to foresee measures excluding accidental entry of people or pets into the premises during the first 5 - 7 days. In order for the maturation process to go effectively, the surface must be moistened daily (starting from the second day) with water, keeping it moist. In extreme heat, it makes sense, after the initial setting, to cover it with a film, in order to avoid drying out.

If an ordinary sand-cement mortar was used, then the readiness of the screed with the operational one can be said not earlier than after 3 weeks. When using dry building mixtures, the timing may be different - they must be indicated in the attached instructions.

After the screed is ready, it is checked for evenness and surface quality. To do this, set a rule on the embedded guides and measure the resulting gap in the center. There is no escape from concrete shrinkage, and if the gap does not exceed 1 - 2 mm, then it will be within the normal range.

Often, a thin-layer composition is poured over the screed to make the surface perfectly smooth. However, this is already a topic for separate consideration.

From the author: I greet you, dear reader! Sooner or later, all of us are faced with renovation in the hope of making our home the most comfortable and beautiful, because the house is our fortress. This is the place where we can be alone with ourselves, and where we feel protected. As soon as we start to think about repairs, we start looking at the prices of materials and services, and literally immediately we understand that you can't save a lot on the material, but you can refuse the services of builders by making repairs yourself. One of the upcoming operations is laying the floors, and it is vitally important for you to know how the floor is constructed using a concrete slab, otherwise problems with repairs cannot be avoided.

Types of floors and their designs

First, let's figure out which ones are generally, since not all of them are suitable for installation in an apartment or house. Some of them may not satisfy your needs or be detrimental to your budget. So, the following types of floor technologies are distinguished:

• on concrete slabs;
• on the ground;
• wooden on concrete slabs;
• concrete with a wooden base;
• concrete for industrial buildings;
• made of fiber-reinforced concrete;
• warm.

Now you will understand which one is needed for what, how it is made, and what are its advantages with disadvantages.

Floors on concrete slabs

This type of flooring is the most common, since most urban residents live in apartments, and all floors of apartment buildings are made exclusively using reinforced concrete slabs. They can be used to make any floor, be it wooden or warm, floating or with inexpensive linoleum installation.

Floor slabs are a universal base - they are strong, capable of withstanding colossal loads and operating for many years in the most severe conditions, while not losing their strength properties. But no matter what kind of coverage we lay, it is worth remembering the necessary sequence of actions in the laying of various layers. In any case, the production of wooden floors on concrete slabs is as follows:

1. Substrate preparation, cleaning or screed.
2. Layout of the lag installation and application of special glue to the surface.
3. Laying the log strictly horizontally, using a hydro level or a regular level.
4. Laying on top of the lag of the waterproofing layer.
5. Laying insulation between the logs.
6. Placement of the rough layer, whether it be board, plywood or chipboard.
7. Vapor barrier layer.
8. Substrate.
9. Finish, laminate or parquet, or boards.

Making a concrete base takes much less time than a wooden base, but its properties are completely different. Such floors are extremely durable in comparison with any other type of floor, they are not subject to deterioration and aging. This floor is static, its thermal expansion is so slow and insignificant that any finishing coating on it does not experience any deformation loads and can serve for a very long time. When properly arranged, it serves as an excellent barrier to heat loss, and in an emergency, such as a flood, will not allow water to penetrate to neighbors.

Of the minuses, the following can be distinguished. Low heat capacity, that is, poor ability to retain heat in itself - therefore, such a floor without a finishing coating will almost always be cold, unless it is made using floor heating technology. It is very heavy. It exerts a serious load on the supporting structures and the foundation, so if this is a private house, and even with floating soil, you should refrain from such a floor.

Now let's look at the sequence of work. It consists of the following steps:

1. Surface preparation.
2. Priming with deep penetration compounds.
3. Laying waterproofing rolls or applying liquid compounds with the same properties.
4. Installation of a reinforcing cage, or the use of basalt fiber. In the case of reinforcement with cellular layers, we tie or weld them and put them on pieces of brick so as to move them away from the surface (so that when pouring the screed, the mesh is in the middle).
5. Installation of beacons. They lie on a solid strip of cement mortar with a small addition of alabaster - this "slide" is laid on top of the reinforcing cage, but so as not to catch it.
6. Preparation of a solution using plasticizers or several shampoo caps.
7. Pouring mortar, pulling the screed.
8. Installation of vapor barrier, underlay and finishing coat.

Ground floors

This coverage is typical for newly erected buildings. The floor on the ground must meet many criteria - after all, it is the main barrier from the ground, which constantly strives to destroy it, saturate it with moisture and take away heat.

To prevent the harmful effects of these factors, multilayer styling technology is used. Work on the ground is carried out as follows and in this order:

1. If we have soft ground at the base, we cut off the top layer, about 20-30 cm.
2. The resulting layer of earth is rammed with a special metal chock or a press.
3. We put a pillow of sand mixed with rubble on the tamped ground. The layer should be about 10-15 cm.
4. Laying in a foam polyurethane damper tape.
5. Next, fill in the rough screed layer, it is possible without reinforcement and beacons. Fill with a layer of about 5-15 cm.
6. We lay a layer of polyethylene or roofing material for waterproofing.
7. Then we lay a layer of insulation material. It is best to use Styrofoam or Styrofoam.
8. We lay the reinforcing mesh on the brick islands to create a gap and place the reinforcement in the middle of the screed layer.
9. We install beacons.
10. We lay down the damper tape.
11. Fill in the finishing layer of the screed.
12. We lay the vapor barrier, underlay and any finishing coat.

As you can see, there is nothing difficult in making a floor with your own hands, and you are able to do it all yourself in a short period of time. All that will stop you is the drying time of the layers.

A source: http://mrpol.su

First, the ground on which the pillow will be laid must be dry. If it is wet, wait until it is dry or dry it using a specialized diesel infrared gun that will do the job effectively.

The rough layer of the screed must dry completely - on average, it takes 20-25 days, and in climates with high humidity - 28-30 days. The finishing layer of the screed should be thinner, no more than 5 cm. It also dries from 20-25 days.

In order for this layer to be of high quality, it must be covered with a film immediately after pouring. For even drying, it is abundantly moistened twice in 24 hours, and then covered with plastic wrap for 3-4 days to evenly distribute moisture. Then the film is removed and left for 20-25 days to dry completely.

This method is effectively used for the manufacture of a floor in a private house, since usually only there there is a need to pour the screed on the ground. This concludes the discussion of making a screed on the ground with our own hands, and now let's move on to the next type.

Basalt fiber floors

New in the building materials market. It appeared not so long ago, about seven years ago, but has not received much distribution. Basalt fiber is an extremely tough fiber with outstanding tear resistance properties. It is a fiber, most often white in color, only 5-7 cm in length, which are supplied in bags.

The technology for manufacturing a concrete screed with basalt fiber is as follows. Exactly the same operations are performed as when pouring a conventional screed, but with one fundamental difference. We do not put reinforcing cells and rods into the base, but instead add basalt fibers directly to the solution, in the proportion indicated on the package, and mix. After hardening, the fibers bind the entire canvas with thousands of threads, which give the structure incredible strength and flexibility.

This method is rarely used in home construction, but almost all industrial facilities are built this way. In cases where support beams or stiffeners are being erected, the methods are combined, that is, they use both reinforcement and basalt to obtain ultra-strong structures.

Wooden subfloors

Watch this video very carefully to understand what makes concrete floors on a wooden base. Or you will definitely achieve the destruction of the entire structure. No, we are not scaring you, but simply trying to warn you.

The fact is that wood and metal are materials with completely different nature, structure and properties. The tree is never static, it is always moving. Its dynamics is determined by humidity, temperature, and the degree of drying. It is forbidden to pour the screed on the tree at all, if the tree is fresh - only after a 3-year period!

Under the influence of the same temperature, these materials expand in different ways, so they need to be combined so that they are completely independent of each other. To do this, use ordinary plastic wrap - concrete does not adhere to it at all and seems to slide while the tree moves.

The whole process should be performed in the following sequence:

1. We remove the boardwalk and revise all the logs in order to remove the damaged and rotten ones, otherwise the wooden floor may not withstand the load. A slab of concrete with a thickness of 5 cm and an area of ​​1 m2 weighs about 300 kg.
2. We restore the flooring and treat the wood with an antiseptic and a primer.
3. We put plastic wrap.
4. We lay reinforcement or use fiber-reinforced concrete.
5. We lay down the damper tape.
6. We place beacons.
7. Fill the screed.

As a result, we get two coatings that exist completely separate from each other. This design is rarely used in practice, but sometimes it is extremely necessary. No matter how complex it is, it has all the properties of a full-fledged concrete base and the thermal characteristics of a wooden floor.

Floors in industrial buildings

If there is a need to make specific floors with increased strength and improved performance, then you need to learn about making floors in an industrial building.

Such a coating is poured in the same way as all screeds. We use waterproofing, damper tape, reinforcement, basalt fiber. But there are a few critical differences. In industrial buildings, depending on the purpose, either just a screed or a screed with iron is made. Depending on the expected load, the layer thickness increases from 5 cm, as in civil buildings, to 20 cm for industrial facilities.

Reinforcement is compulsory, and in two stages. The first is the bottom reinforcement, the second is the top. The floor is poured in such a way that the reinforcing cage is 5 cm from the bottom, and 5 cm from the top of the screed, because the coating can work not only in tension under heavy weight, but also in compression, and each of the reinforcement belt must extinguish these efforts.

And most importantly, any industrial screed should only be manufactured using vibrating machines. These are special installations that make the layer of mortar under the influence of vibration to be compacted and more thoroughly to fill all the voids. Thus, excellent coating properties can be achieved.

Well, dear reader, here you have learned everything that could be, about what flooring devices are, and how to make them. There are, of course, specific schemes - for example, manufacturing in a bathhouse, but they differ only in the presence of drains and drainage pits, and are made according to exactly the same principles as everyone else. Now, with this information, you can easily equip a floor for any purpose. Good luck and see you soon!

Floors on concrete slabs are capable of withstanding high loads. For this reason, they most often become part of the structures of multi-storey buildings. Laying the slabs is a fairly simple task, but the characteristics of the material make some adjustments to the process of installing the floor.

What to consider when working with a concrete base?

1. Roughness of the surface;
2. Gaps between plates;
3. Cool enough temperature.

Creating a screed on a concrete slab

Slab-based flooring implies several options. The easiest is to fill the screed. It can be made in several ways:

• By mixing sand and cement (with the addition of water);
• By preparing a special mixture.

The grandfather's method is no longer very relevant today. The second option is much better. Of course, the purchase of a dry mix will cost a little more, but the result of its use will be much better. The fact is that manufacturers are putting on the market improved formulations, which include plasticizers, polymers and other components that improve product quality.

Installation process

First of all, you need to inspect the slab for defects in order to know which places you will have to pay more attention to when pouring the solution. After that, a primer is applied to it (with a roller or brush).

Important! It is best to use a deep penetration primer. When the surface is dry, go to the screed. The layer should not be very thick. Its task is to hide defects and level the surface a little. In about a day, the screed will dry out and can be covered with a film. Polyethylene will play the role of a vapor and waterproofer. The film should cover not only the floor, but at least 15 centimeters of the wall.

After that, metal profiles or wooden slats are exposed throughout the entire area. So called beacons are installed in one horizontal plane.

How to install a beacon?

1. In the corner of the room, near the stove itself, set a laser level. When the light rays outline the outline on the walls, make them exactly the same level of the floor, along which you will need to carry out the finishing.
2. It is necessary to install beacons over the entire area (along the contour) at a distance slightly less than the length of the rule that will align the screed. Previously, strong threads are pulled from opposite walls. They are attached to self-tapping screws. Lighthouses are fixed with plaster or screed mortar.

Final stages

Having installed the beacons, you can proceed to laying the insulation. There are no restrictions in the choice of material, but expanded clay will be the most optimal. It does not need to be protected with a film, in contrast to porous insulation. After that, it is the turn of the main screed. It must be dense, and also have a thickness that can withstand heavy loads (5-15 cm).

Important! To make a flat floor, you need to use a rule. It should be laid on the beacons and pulled towards you. As a result, the excess mortar will be drawn to the wall and fill in the irregularities.

The floor will dry out in a few days. Then it will be possible to remove the beacons and fill in the gaps. Finishing is recommended only on an absolutely dry surface.

Making a plank floor

The wooden floor is still the most popular in private houses. Its styling is not particularly difficult. You need to start the device with the elimination of base defects. The usual solution based on cement will do. Cracks, chips, seams between the slabs are sealed with it.

Then, with the help of a laser level, a contour is determined, along which a finishing surface is eventually set, and it is time to create a general structure.

Main works

The floor is covered with waterproofing material as indicated at the beginning. Then the lags are mounted. They are installed in the same horizontal plane.

Important! The logs are fixed perpendicular to the boards, and the boards are fixed perpendicular to the wall with the window.

There are several options:

1. With the help of long self-tapping screws, the logs are cut through and fixed to the floor. Holes in the slab are made in advance. Plastic dowels must be inserted into them.
2. Along the edges of the lag, you can install supports made from wooden slats or pieces of lag. The supports are attached to the floor, the joists are laid between them.
3. The modern method is the device of a lag on lifting devices.

Final stages

After installing and securing the lag, you should start warming the floor. The insulation is laid in the interlag space. The type of material used is not important, its thickness is important. In the process of installing wooden floors, the main thing is not to forget to leave a gap between the clean coating and the insulation. It will become ventilation that will remove excess moisture and increase the durability of the coating and thermal insulation materials.

Now it remains to cover the surface with polyethylene and proceed to the final step - laying the boards.

Water floor device

Before moving on to the installation of warm water floors, you need to deal with their thermal insulation. For this case, foil insulation is best suited. It is covered with a reinforcing mesh. After that, you can already lay out pipes for water heating. They are fixed to the mesh with plastic clamps.

Important! For greater reliability, a reinforcing mesh is also laid over the structure.

To protect expansion joints, pipes are laid along the walls (corrugated pipes are suitable). It will be possible to proceed to pouring with concrete after carrying out hydraulic tests. The water system is checked for faults during the day. All detected problems are promptly corrected.

To make the finishing screed of a warm water floor, you need to use a cement mortar. The thickness of the layer should be within 5-15 cm. After a day or two, it will dry out, after which it will be possible to proceed to the direct operation of the warm floor. The temperature should be raised gradually.

This method of installing warm water floors is relevant not only if the floor slab acts as a basis, but also a concrete floor on the ground. A water floor is great for both a house and an apartment. It is warm, durable, and protects against moisture and mold.

Laying of self-leveling floors

To make a self-leveling floor the main coating, you need to start with a base primer. Apply epoxy or polyurethane primer in two coats (only one mixture). The face layer is applied exclusively to the decorated coating. Photo printing looks especially impressive on the surface. It is made on a special film, and a transparent self-leveling floor is laid on top.

Laying technology

The process of installing self-leveling floors begins with a standard procedure - cleaning the surface from dust and dirt. Next, a primer is applied. After it dries, along the vertical surfaces that will be in contact with the self-leveling floor, a damper tape is glued along the perimeter. It protects the self-leveling base from cracking.

Then it is the turn of the application of the self-leveling floor solution. It must be done, strictly following the instructions, using an electric mixer at low speeds.

Important! To get a homogeneous composition, you need to stir the mixture according to the principle: stir-stop. The duration of action-inaction should be the same and not exceed 5 minutes.

The finished solution is poured onto the surface and spread with a roller or spatula, and air bubbles are removed with a needle roller. The thickness of the fill should be at least 3 cm. Now you need to wait for the coating to harden.

Important! Direct sunlight and drafts will adversely affect uncured material.

The thickness of the surface also affects the time it takes for the surface to dry completely. The hardening times are indicated on the packaging of the dry mix. As a rule, work on laying ceramic tiles begins after three days, and parquet installation - after a week.

The role of OSB in flooring

OSB or OSB is used to achieve one or all 3 objectives:

1. To level the floor and hide defects.
2. In order to provide good sound insulation. The multilayer structure successfully absorbs noise.
3. To insulate the floor and make high-quality waterproofing. The material on a natural basis is characterized by increased moisture resistance and excellent heat conservation.

Features of the use of the material

OSB (OSB) is not always attached to the floor. If the concrete base has large differences in height or significant unevenness, the slabs are fixed on wooden beams. The latter successfully act as a lag.

Important! The maximum resistance to deformation is provided by OSB (OSB) - plates with a thickness of 10 mm. They are laid in two layers (offset). Fastening of parts of the material is carried out using glue or spiral nails.