Please tell me when laying the walls of the bathroom from gaskets do you need to process them? So I understand the gas blocks well absorb moisture them at all can be put in the bathroom? Thanks in advance for the answer!
Answer:Yes, you are right, aerated concrete blocks have high vapor permeability, and in the bathroom you know constantly worth the high humidity of the air. Having such a high ability to absorb moisture, the aerated concrete blocks are used to build walls and partitions in the bathrooms only after performing protective waterproofing events after the construction of walls.
The first thing you have to do is to be primed up the entire surface of the bathroom walls deep penetrating primer, such as Cerezit St-17. The soil will provide you with the preparation of walls from gaskets under the application of the solving layer of putty, for example, ST-29.
The spatlement of the walls must be performed very carefully, since the layer of putty will protect your emission aerated concrete. After drying the layer of putty, it is necessary to treat the floor and the surface of the walls to the height of 200 mm from the floor-insulation on the cement-based Ceresit CR 65. Well, on the tile moisture-resistant CM-17 glue, all the same company and calmly lay the ceramic tile on the walls of your bathroom. After performing such work, you reliably protect from the moisture of the wall of the bathroom made of gaskets.
Please tell me when laying the walls of the bathroom from gaskets do you need to process them? So I understand the gas blocks well absorb moisture them at all can be put in the bathroom? Thanks in advance for the answer!
Answer:Yes, you are right, aerated concrete blocks have high vapor permeability, and in the bathroom you know constantly worth the high humidity of the air. Having such a high ability to absorb moisture, the aerated concrete blocks are used to build walls and partitions in the bathrooms only after performing protective waterproofing events after the construction of walls.
The first thing you have to do is to be primed up the entire surface of the bathroom walls deep penetrating primer, such as Cerezit St-17. The soil will provide you with the preparation of walls from gaskets under the application of the solving layer of putty, for example, ST-29.
The spatlement of the walls must be performed very carefully, since the layer of putty will protect your emission aerated concrete. After drying the layer of putty, it is necessary to treat the floor and the surface of the walls to the height of 200 mm from the floor-insulation on the cement-based Ceresit CR 65. Well, on the tile moisture-resistant CM-17 glue, all the same company and calmly lay the ceramic tile on the walls of your bathroom. After performing such work, you reliably protect from the moisture of the wall of the bathroom made of gaskets.
The common belief that aerated concrete absorbs part of the water, as a sponge, is associated with its porous structure, which is formed in the production process. At the same time, the accumulated volume of water aerated concrete keeps in itself.
A minor level of water absorption of aerated concrete is due to the fact that the pores in this material are not only closed, but also open. A cellular aerated concipe absorbs moisture by 6-8%, as it has the property of hygroscopicity. Given this property of blocks, it is necessary to create additional protection against moisture. Protection of material is provided not only for constructed walls, but also during transportation and storage.
According to experts, in order to thoroughly destroy the aerated concrete, it is necessary that the aerated concrete remained for direct contact with water, i.e., the aerated concrete should lie in the water.
The finished, a concrete block consists of approximately 75% of the pores. Moreover, the greatest volume is accounted for macropours that form rounded voids and interpore partitions.
The operational humidity of aerated concrete products is 4-5%. In this case, the humidity critical for the material, entailing its destruction, for aerated concrete, a density of 400 kg / m³ is 45-50%. Similar indicators for aerated concrete density of 500 kg / m³ - 40%.
Due to the porous structure, the material "breathes" and, accordingly, has the high properties of thermal insulation and sound insulation. Screwing a large amount of moisture leads to a change in these properties for the worse. In order for the aerated concrete to absorb moisture, additional processing is carried out.
It actively absorbs moisture from the environment during the rain, wet snow, as well as in the spring, when the snow melts. If you do not create protection, aerated concrete can absorb up to 35% of moisture relative to its mass. Such a percentage of moisture dramatically reduces the heating resistance, and in the premises it becomes raw and cold. Aerated concrete can crack in winter, if the autumn of the room did not heat and the material absorbed a large amount of moisture.
The humidity of the aerated concrete applied to the construction of the wall of the building depends on the number of seasons of operation of the house, on what is the design of the wall and the sorbia. For example, the humidity of the aerated concrete house of the country house, which is not involved in residential purposes in the cold season, does not play any important role. If the mineral material of the aerated concrete is closed from precipitation of reliable roof, then in this mode of using the building it will always be unharmed.
Moisture can enter the room below from poor-quality foundation or from places to connect walls with the surface of the Earth; Outside, when changing the season, precipitation; From the inside with improper operation of the air conditioning system, flooding.
According to the manufacturers, some amount of water can shallowly penetrate inside the material, however, it is the capillary-porous block structure that allows it easy and quickly and quickly give moisture back, i.e., in the structure of a wakeful aerated concrete, the liquid is not delayed for a long time.
The aerated concrete with ease gives the accumulated part of the water to the outside when the air indoors becomes unnecessarily dry, the wall of this material will provide moisturizing.
The amount of water penetrated into aerated concrete, first of all worsens its thermal insulation properties. The higher the water absorption, the lower the real thermal insulation properties of the material.
Walls made of aerated concrete, drinking water, create additional weight loads in structures, in the device of which they are used. Accordingly, the higher the water absorption is aerated concrete, the greater the risk of emergency situations.
The water sphere itself is a destructive factor. The constant presence of water in the aerated concrete can lead, at a minimum, to a decrease in strength.
Currently, two methods have found the greatest practical application, how to protect the aerated concrete from water is waterproofing and hydrophobization.
Hydropobicators - compositions that are supplied in the form of concentrates or ready-to-use solutions, aqueous or organic solvents. They do not create a surface film, and form a water repellent (hydrophobic) layer in a depth of several millimeters. The vapor permeability of the treated surface is almost not reduced, i.e., part of the water evaporates, and does not fall inside. The surface treated with a hydrophobizer, as a rule, does not change colors. The hydrophobic coating significantly increases the frost resistance of any material.
These properties make it possible to use hydrophobizers using silicate and ceramic brick, concrete and aerated concrete, limestone, travertines, sewer, granite, mramor, and even by paving slabs.
The water-repellent effect is due to the penetration of the hydrophobizer into a depletion of from 5 to 50 mm, depending on its density and humidity. The hydrophobizer is fixed after 12-24 hours. At the same time, crystals are formed in the capillaries of the material, which prevent the penetration of water into aerated concrete. But this does not prevent air penetration.
As for waterproofing, experts note: largely eliminate the negative effects of water on the aerated concrete. Ideally, the "pie" of the wall structure should be such that the outer layer is much more penetrating for vapors than the inner. This will make it possible not only to effectively remove part of the water out of the premises, but also prevent the penetration into the house of water from the street. For example, Indastro Renault RSI240 will help solve this problem.
So that the blocks do not absorb moisture, use various ways to protect. Also, the insulation will also show itself the insulation bases SSL15 SEFSKRIN with antiseptic properties.
Treatment of the inner surface of the walls of deep penetration by primer (acrylic primer crime), followed by handling putty for internal work. This creates a steam barrier. To create such a barrier, it is impossible to use traditional stucco without primer treatment with gluing on the surface of the wallpaper. When using traditional plaster, a depletion of aerated concrete from moisture from the inside of the room is occurring. Plaster cracking and peeling. Treatment of the outside of the wall is carried out by plaster plaster, cement-sand is not suitable, as it peckles. Gypsum processing is carried out once every 2-3 years.
Using the end of the walls of the walls with decorative materials, such as tiles, stone, and so on. Decoration will protect the layer of plaster on the surface of the aerated concrete. Large selection of decorative coatings.
The outer side is placed brick. Pick up brick. Since the cement-sandy solution well misses steam between the brick masonry and the wall from the aerated concrete, leave the air clearance. The width of the clearance is approximately Pollipich. In construction in this way there is one small problem: how to fix the facade wall if it is built with a gap. The problem is solved using the anchor elements that are installed every 5 rows of the lined brick. As an anchors, it is not recommended to use the usual fittings or steel corner, since these elements are subject to corrosion. With the rigid connection between the bearing wall and the facade will not. The facade wall will roll. As anchors, fiberglass or stainless steel are popular in the building materials market.
Facade trim siding. The method is much worse than the brickwork, it is not recommended to apply it, because at the end of the work there are a lot of hidden problems. Of course, maybe the finish and looks beautiful and the price is several times less, but the durability of the structure from aerated concrete will decrease.
The use of reinforced concrete sandwich panels, based on shipbuilding concrete with water resistance W.
Together with the finishing of the inner and outer walls from aerated concrete, work is carried out on waterproofing the foundation, since the moisture can penetrate through the wrong foundation. To do this, when building walls, the blocks of aerated concrete are laid out above the ground level from 30 to 50 cm.
With high-quality equipment of window openings, decorative protrusions and roofs with drainage, as well as high-quality waterproofing of the base, the house, the material of which is aerated concrete, can simultane more than a dozen years without any structural defects.
When conducting construction works, do not leave a gas-concrete under the open sky, since when you rain, moisture is absorbed very quickly and its properties deteriorate. It is not recommended to unpack aerated concrete completely.
It is not recommended to carry out construction of facilities from aerated concrete from November to March. In the same period, it is impractical to shock the surfaces of the walls. Excessive moisture worsen the properties of the block, and the plaster when drying into a hotder, the arid period will be peeling and turning. In this case, all plaster works must be repeated.
Gas and foamonetons are characterized by high vapor permeability, and the nuances of the selection of building materials for the inner lining of buildings are due to this. In the warm room in the air there are always a pair of water that easily penetrate the walls of the walls of aerated concrete, cooled there and condensed. Block raw. To prevent this, it is important to scrupulously pick up finishing building materials for the interior, whose indicators parry permeabilitymust be much lower than the walls. The same is due and the choice of facade facing material, which should have even greater vapor permeability, so as not to prevent the free exit of the waters of moisture steam outside.
ATTENTION: Vaporizoation of walls from aerated concrete or gas silicate is carried out indoors, and not by the facade. It does not matter: there is insulation of the building outside or inside, or it is not, as well as the facade is lined or refused.
Properly laid tile on the foam block or gas-block allows you to increase the strength and moisture resistance of the design. And they perform such work most often on the walls of bathrooms and kitchen premises, ensuring the decoration of their interior.
Foam blocks are a building material, characterized by high heat and soundproof properties, ease and relatively affordable price. That is why they are increasingly used for the construction of housing. However, in addition to the merits, the material also has a small disadvantage - the need for finishing capable of preserving its characteristics and increase the operational period. The inner surfaces of the blocks in residential rooms require shockting and painting. And sometimes there is a need to put a tile on the foam block - and in order to protect the enclosing structures from high humidity, and to decorate the interior.
Possibility of laying
The owners of housing make repairs in a foam block, often arises, whether it is possible to put a tile on the foam block. The answer to it is positive - however, due to the enhanced brittleness of such a foundation of a piece of material with time, they can start falling off with a cafeter. Prevent such a situation using primer first, and then plaster or special tile glue.
Most often, the need to lay tile on foam blocks occurs when finishing the enclosure designs of the bathroom and kitchen. After all, besides the humidity here is noticeably higher than in other rooms, there is a possibility of entering the foam concrete water and, as a result, the destruction of blocks and the appearance of mold. It is worth noting that ceramics can be laid in such premises also on the floor, but work with foam blocks are carried out only when wall decoration.
Choosing tile
An important nuance when laying tiles on foam blocks in the bathroom or in the kitchen - the right choice of finishing materials and decoration area. Thus, preferring an option with a ceramic facing to the ceiling itself, you can visually reduce the room, creating an illusion of a lower ceiling. Therefore, in small bathrooms or kitchens, it is advisable to lay the tile, leaving no less than 30-40 cm to the ceiling overlap and select smooth materials in cold colors. For a large bathroom and kitchen room with an excellent option for facing foam block, a tile will become a tile in a warm color scheme.
The sizes of the tile should depend on the filling of the rooms with furniture and other objects (home appliances and plumbing), their area and heights:
- if the interior elements are much, it is worth choosing a large tile or a monophonic light mosaic;
- for a small bath in minimalist style (with the installation of only the most necessary, without washing machine and mounted lockers), the ideal option is a small square tile of 100 x 100 mm;
- for low premises, the located vertically rectangular tile is suitable, for low rooms - products of square shape.
Selection of glue
Before buying tiled glue, it is worth paying attention to its increased elasticity. A, choosing a way to put a tile on foam blocks in the bathroom, pay attention to such a characteristic as resistance to the effects of high moisture. For the working wall in front of the kitchen oven it is worth the preference to the cafél, the operation of which is possible in conditions of elevated temperatures.
As materials that are separated by dry rooms (corridors, living rooms or offices), formulations are suitable based on a conventional cement-sand mixture of the SM9 type. And among the special versions of the tile glue, a mosaic is distinguished separately, intended for stickers on the walls of the mosaic. Due to the presence of white cement, this material does not have its own shade and provides increased tensile strength.
Preparation for laying
Before prepare foam blocks under the tile, you should evaluate the flatness of the wall surface. If the foamwork was performed correctly, the additional finish is practically required. If there are significant irregularities, the Contractor has serious work on the preparation of the foundation and.
Since foam block strongly absorbs moisture ideally for wet premises
Applying primer under the plaster.
The next stage is primer blocks. For this, specialized materials are used, a wide range is presented. When finishing the bathrooms, it is necessary to fulfill such work in the kitchen. Having finished with the preparation, go directly to the question whether to plaster foam block under the tile - as a rule, choose the option with plaster, more expensive, but also ensures the increased strength of the walls. For these purposes, tile glue is quite suitable. To which the tile will be laid, go to the main part of the work.
The main stages of work
The first stage of laying tiles on the foamclock or gasoblock (the principle of ceramics stickers on both material is the same) is the preparation of the solution. To do this, a dry adhesive mixture and water, stirring them with a perforator with a special nozzle, are added to the pre-prepared container. Proportions for mixing are usually indicated on glue packaging.
Despite the guidelines for the preparation of the adhesive mixture, it is advisable to independently control the mixing process. The finished substance should not be too liquid and without lumps, but not very hard, so as not to worsen the adhesion of the tile and the walls.
Continuing work, follows:
- Apply the finished adhesive mixture with a toothed spatula;
- Attach the first tile to the wall and grip tightly;
- Check the horizontal material of the material level and, if necessary, align the tile. The alignment of the tile is given no more than 10-15 minutes after applying glue. If this time is over, the glue should be removed and put it again;
- Repeat the same steps for the following tiles. In order to leave the same in thickness, intercutric seams use plastic crosses;
- If you need to cut the tile to apply the tiles, by checking on the surface of the tile of the cutting part of the tool;
- In the corners of the room, plastic corners are stacked, with which even stitches are provided. And to bypass pipelines of water, gas and heat supply in the tiles are cut.
After laying the entire tile and drying the material (about 24 hours), crosses are cleaned, and. The material for these works is selected in tile tile. Surplus grouts are removed with a sponge. And after 2-3 hours, the lining is once again wiping, removing traces of a grouting mixture. On this foam block facing the cafeter ends.
I solve whether it is possible to glue a tile on foam blocks, and preferred this option, you get high-quality trimmed walls, which can not be repaired for many more years. In this case, the surface of the enhancement structures is reliably protected from external influences and with the help of plaster, and thanks to the cafée. And it is possible to achieve such a result only with the help of a responsible attitude to work and accurate compliance with all requirements.