DIY composter from a metal barrel. DIY compost pit from a barrel

In the absence of space for a stationary composter, you can equip it in an ordinary plastic or metal barrel. It is better to use a plastic one, and for ease of mixing, hang it in a horizontal position and attach a handle for rotation. The compost in the barrel will ripen evenly and it will take less effort to shovel the contents.

Old metal containers quickly rot under the influence of moisture, and the plastic is neutral.

In addition, you can buy a barrel of any size, depending on how much waste accumulates on the site. If only leaves and grass, then a volume of 120 - 150 liters will be enough. If there is vegetable and fruit waste, tops, weeds, manure, then you need to take 200 - 300 liters.

Benefits of using a plastic composting drum

If the site is equipped with a wooden composting box, the bottom will sooner or later rot under the influence of the same bacteria. If there is no bottom, then nutrients will go into the soil under the box irrevocably. It is much more economical if the composter has a bottom and is resistant to microorganisms.

You can make a do-it-yourself composter from a barrel aerobic and anaerobic. In the first case, you need to organize regular air access to plant residues. This compost matures faster. If you use accelerators - bacterial preparations, then you can get fertilizer in 1 - 1.5 months.

Video: Compost Barrels

For anaerobic fertilization, the compost barrel must be airtight. It is tightly closed or dug into the ground. Residues take longer to rot, but the fertilizer is more concentrated, since all the nutrients remain inside. Such compost is not used for seedlings in its pure form, but is always mixed with the soil.

A compost pit from a barrel is easier to build than a concrete storage bin, although concrete is also a very good material for a stationary composter. To immerse the barrel in the ground, it is enough to dig a hole corresponding to the size of the container.

You can wrap the sides and bottom with mineral wool or other heat-retaining material. In such a pit it will be possible to make fertilizer even in winter. The hatch will be a plastic cover that is sold in the kit.

How to set up a barrel composter

There are many ways how to prepare compost in the country in a barrel. The easiest one is to leave it in the garden without digging it into the ground.

To make a horizontal compost barrel, you need some tools and additional materials - wood or metal pipes. The first step is to weld or knock down the frame, which will hold the barrel filled with compost raw materials.

It can be something like a frame with welded support tubes or wooden bars. A barrel will be attached to them, in the center of which a metal pipe runs. In order not to damage the plastic, a PVC pipe is put on the metal - it is smooth and durable.

How to prepare a barrel:

Make a hole in which the raw material will be laid. To do this, cut a rectangular piece in the wall. With the help of metal canopies on one side, a piece of plastic becomes a door. On the other hand, it is necessary to provide a latch so that the ingredients do not fall out during scrolling.

On both sides - in the bottom and in the lid, holes are made to pass the pipe.

The lid closes tightly and the barrel is put on the pipe, fastening it to the bed. You can make a handle for convenience, but many do without it.

Summer residents attach wheels to the base of the frame and transport the composter for the winter to a warm place - a shed or storage room.

Preparation and laying of raw materials

Before composting in a barrel, you need to prepare the raw materials. It must be a mixture of nitrogen and carbon-containing components. In this case, nitrogen is laid 4 times less. All green components and manure are nitrogen-containing. To carbon - straw, cardboard, dry leaves, sawdust, bark, cut branches of trees and shrubs.

Pour each ingredient a five-centimeter layer of soil, so that soil bacteria get into the compost and begin to multiply. If you use biodegradants, then it is not necessary to add the soil. Bacterial preparations can be purchased at the store or made with your own hands from fermented milk products and yeast.

After composting withstand 5 - 6 days with the lid open and then inverted. When shoveling on the bed, the lid is closed, then it is opened again to give access to oxygen. In the future, the compost is agitated every 3 to 4 days. This speeds up its maturation.

To get the finished fertilizer, a bucket, wheelbarrow or other container is placed under the lid and the required amount is poured.

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Composting vegetable beds is perhaps the most rational, safe and environmentally friendly method of increasing soil fertility. It minimizes the use of mineral fertilizers and contributes to a colossal increase in the diversity of microorganisms in the soil, which in turn recycle organic matter and make it available to plants.

However, composting organic waste is not as easy as it might seem at first. If you delve deeper into the study process, it turns out that this is not just a "method", but a whole science of how to turn organic matter into a nutritious substance that will be much more easily assimilated for plants than mineral fertilizers, the fashion for which seems to be slow, but is surely coming to an end.

So, for example, organic waste needs to be stratified with earth. Also, the compost must be shaken at least a couple of times during the entire composting period, shifting it from place to place. This is done so that the mass is saturated with oxygen, and aerobic microorganisms get an impetus for the development in it, instead of anaerobic ones, for example, putrefactive bacteria.

Re-sanding and crumbling the compost with earth is not only time consuming, but also relatively laborious. In order to simplify the task, we decided to build a compost bin that would be equipped with a swivel mechanism and could do the work for us.

To make such a summer cottage "assistant" you will need:

1. Materials:

Barrel (we took a plastic one);
- plywood 6 mm .;
- a wooden block with a section of 50 by 100 mm .;
- furniture rollers, which are usually used in the manufacture of furniture - 4 pcs .;
- nails;
- self-tapping screws.

2. Tools:

Electric jigsaw;
- a hacksaw for wood;
- screwdriver;
- electric drill;
- screwdriver;
- a hammer;
- marker or pencil.

Step 1: making the cover

We chose 6 mm plywood as the material for the barrel lid.

Place the barrel on a sheet of plywood with the neck facing the surface and outline its outline. Cut the resulting circle using a jigsaw.

Saw small squares from the block. We will need four of them in total. Using a pencil, "write" an imaginary square in the circle and fix one square in each corner using nails or self-tapping screws (see photo below). To prevent the parts from splitting, pre-drill the holes for the fasteners with an electric drill.

In addition, drill a couple of dozen holes in the lid itself. This will provide the necessary aeration of the mass and prevent the development of unwanted bacteria and organisms in it.

Step 2: making the frame

Manufacturing the frame does not take much time, since its structure is extremely simple and is a rectangle made of timber with braces installed at the corners, providing it with rigidity.

The length of the frame is arbitrary, however, it should be slightly longer than the length of the barrel installed on it. While the width is 1/4 less than the dimensions of the barrel. With these comments in mind, make the necessary calculations.

We took a bar with a cross section of 50 x 100 mm., But, in fact, you can choose any other dimensions that will provide the structure with the required "load capacity".

We made the braces from plywood scraps. The test results show that it is quite suitable for these purposes.

Step 3: installing the casters

During operation, the barrel will rotate thanks to the rollers. Our frame is ready, so start installing the casters.

Each pair should be fixed on the long side of the frame as shown in the photo - stepping back slightly from the edge. Use self-tapping screws for fastening. This will greatly simplify the process of changing rollers, correcting their position or adjusting.

If you are concerned about the safety of the barrel, choose rubber-coated rollers - they will not scratch the walls of the container.

Please note that the closer the rollers are to the neck and bottom of the barrel, the more stable the entire structure will be.

Step 4: installing the stop

The stop in this design is designed to prevent the barrel from sliding sideways during rotation. It is fixed to the frame and is a regular piece of board. Subsequently, it will hold the barrel in an axial position.

Step 5: installing the cover retainer

As you can see in the photo, the "retainer" is a set of rubber bands with hooks, which are usually used when transporting goods. You can find these in any market. Their length should not only ensure a snug fit of the lid, but also not interfere with the removal of the harnesses. For the convenience and reliability of the connection, several holes for the hooks must be drilled around the circumference of the barrel neck.

How to make the right compost? At the compost cottage, I simply dug an iron barrel into the ground. Is it correct? and got the best answer

Answer from Ђatiana Vedenina [guru]
Very bad.
How to make compost
Install the compost device (see below) in a designated area in the garden.
Lay down approx. 20 cm "brown" material for drainage and ventilation.
Add to compost, evenly alternating: shredded dry "brown" materials (branches of trees and shrubs, paper, cardboard, sawdust, bark, straw, hay, shavings, wood ash, dry leaves); moisture-containing "green" materials (kitchen waste, cut grass, weeds, algae, tops, green manure); compost accelerators (EO are effective microorganisms, special preparations for accelerating compost, rotted manure of herbivores and bird droppings, urine, ready-made compost, earthworms, garden soil, etc.). Plants rich in useful substances significantly improve the quality of compost: nettle, comfrey and other green manure crops, yarrow, dandelion (not roots and not flowers!) And others. The alternation of "green" and "brown" layers ensures the penetration of air into the compost heap, uniform and balanced maturation of the compost in the container, and further - structural, fertile, correct compost. Never push or compact the contents, this will disturb air circulation in the compost bin. Over time, the mixture will go down and you can add waste to the container. When the compost bin has been filled to the top several times, you can stop filling it and move on to the next one.
Stir and shovel the compost from time to time with forks for better air access and even moisture in the compost. Maintain moisture in the maturing compost bin with watering. However, avoid stagnant water in the compost bin. An unpleasant smell of ammonia (rotten eggs, rotting) from the compost bin indicates an excess of "green" materials and a lack of oxygen. Add brown waste to the compostar and stir the mixture.

Answer from Maria[guru]
Could be so.

Answer from Lily viryuina[newbie]
Better fence off the place, put a wooden pallet on the ground, pour waste on it all summer, but do not forget to water this business. If you are not lazy - turn it several times a season, that's all)

Answer from Mityai Bukhankin[guru]
why dig in? what would rot too?

Answer from Olga[guru]
How to take it out? I have two boxes without a front wall and you can drive up in a wheelbarrow WHILE one pile ripens under a black film, the other is filled

Answer from Elena orlova[guru]
i just have a barrel by the fence. So I pick it up full, and close it for the winter, but I don’t dig it in, it’s already heavy, they don’t take it away, but they want it, they turn it over and throw out the contents, if someone wants to steal the barrel, it’s really easier to turn it over and pour the contents onto the film. and then onto the ridges. and it is inconvenient to scoop out of the barrel with a shovel if especially less than half of the compost remains,

Answer from Keymaster of Fate[guru]
Wrong. How to take out? I have a leaky dumpster. Turned over and all the cases. In addition, the temperature in the air is higher than in the ground.

Answer from Alla Tarasova[guru]
No, it's wrong. There must be access to air and rainwater, and without stagnation thereof at the bottom of the barrel. Otherwise, instead of composting, rotting occurs, as a result of which substances harmful to the soil (acids, etc.)

Answer from A. Vasilievna[guru]
The barrel should be without a bottom, and there is no need to dig it in.

Answer from Alla Lebedeva[guru]
I have one container dug in, and next to it I bought a prefabricated plastic composter.

Answer from Tatiana M[guru]
Compost heap. DIY organic fertilizer (video)

Answer from 2 answers[guru]

Hey! Here's a selection of topics to answer your question: How to make the right compost? At the compost cottage, I simply dug an iron barrel into the ground. Is it correct?

Compost pile for the lazy
11/20/2009 Labels: humus, compost, compost box, manure, do it yourself

In summer cottages, a compost heap is a must. After all, compost is a unique organic fertilizer that enriches the soil with humus. Compost can partially or completely replace manure, which has now risen in price, as well as mineral fertilizers and specially brought fertile soil. In addition, by collecting organic waste throughout the site, we simply clear the area around.

Of course, the compost heap or boxes for composting waste should be placed in secluded places so that they do not catch the eye and spoil the view. Nevertheless, they should always be at hand. In the case of the classic composting solution, three sections are required for the production of compost: in one, the waste is laid, in the other, the compost matures, in the third, the finished fertilizer is ready for removal to the beds. In terms of size, many converge on the following proportions: width -1.5 m, height - 1-1.2 m, length - up to 3-4 m. These dimensions are given in many reference books, they are considered the minimum necessary to ensure the temperature and stable humidity for the normal course of the composting process. According to the same theory, it is advised to shovel the contents of the compost heap annually to supply air to the maturing compost, i.e. to speed up the process of waste decomposition. This task requires serious physical effort.
How to speed up the composting process?

But progress does not stand still, composting technologies are being improved and the compost production process has been accelerated by 2-3 times. For example, to preserve moisture and to increase the temperature in the compost heap, they began to cover it with plastic wrap with openings for air access. Also, to speed up composting, various accelerators of this process have been developed, for example, the drug "Tamir". To speed up the process, you can select a certain composition of organic and other components of the compost heap so that composting will be significantly accelerated. This suggests that today it is not necessary to follow the rigid recommendations developed in the last century.
Composting in an iron barrel
1 - holes in the wall of the barrel;
2 - green mass;
3 - manure;
4 - ash;
5 - earth;
6 - polyethylene.

So a modern compost heap can be made compact or stacked for this purpose in a small container with a capacity of about 1 cubic meter. meter, making it from boards.

But, as you know, laziness is the engine of progress, so it may not cost anything to build. Just take an old metal barrel without a bottom and tweak it a bit:

First, to ensure air access in the lower part of the barrel, we make 20-30 holes along its perimeter with a drill with a diameter of 8-10 mm, or you can punch them with a punch. Place the holes at a height of 20-30 cm from the base of the barrel. And no insulating spacers are needed between the barrel and the ground - microorganisms and moisture must move freely in both directions.

Secondly, we paint the barrel on the outside in a dark color to heat it better in the sun, which will provide a high temperature inside and speed up the composting process.

The process of making compost in a barrel is very convenient and simple. Several such barrels can be placed around the site, placing them in places where waste accumulates most quickly. This can be a summer kitchen, garden beds, etc.
Composting layers

To speed up the production of compost, fertilizer components should be laid in a certain order, forming layers of a certain thickness:

First, place green plants or carbon-rich substances, making them a layer 15-20 cm thick.

Then put in 5 cm of manure or nitrogen-rich substances.

Then we tear everything with a centimeter layer of earth.

So we fill the barrel to the top, continuing to lay the layers in the same sequence - weeds, manure, ash, earth.

Cover the filled barrel with a piece of plastic wrap with holes, which we tie up with twine so that the wind does not blow it away. From time to time we water the prepared compost with water so that it does not dry out. Watering can be done at the same time as watering the beds. But it is not worth overmoistening the compost mass too much. In terms of humidity, it should correspond to the squeezed sponge.

If there are ants in the barrel, then the compost heap has dried up and the composting process has been interrupted. To automatically maintain the desired humidity in the barrel, plant a zucchini, pumpkin or cucumber there. In this case, the film is no longer needed. Watering these plants will provide the correct moisture in the compost heap. The difficulty of the last method is only to immediately fill the barrel with all layers of compost to the top.

This design of the compost heap in the form of a barrel significantly accelerates the composting process. And you don't have to wait 3 years, as in the classic version. No need to shovel the compost. In one summer, you can get several hundred kg of excellent fertilizer.

Old metal containers quickly rot under the influence of moisture, and the plastic is neutral.

Video: Compost Barrels

There are many ways how to prepare compost in the country in a barrel. The easiest one is to leave it in the garden without digging it into the ground.

How to prepare a barrel:

Make a hole in which the raw material will be laid. To do this, cut a rectangular piece in the wall. With the help of metal canopies on one side, a piece of plastic becomes a door. On the other hand, it is necessary to provide a latch so that the ingredients do not fall out during scrolling.

On both sides - in the bottom and in the lid, holes are made to pass the pipe.

The lid closes tightly and the barrel is put on the pipe, fastening it to the bed. You can make a handle for convenience, but many do without it.

Summer residents attach wheels to the base of the frame and transport the composter for the winter to a warm place - a shed or storage room.

To get the finished fertilizer, a bucket, wheelbarrow or other container is placed under the lid and the required amount is poured.

Hello dear readers! I am the creator of the Fertilizers.NET project. Glad to see each of you on its pages. I hope the information from the article was helpful. Always open for communication - comments, suggestions, what else you want to see on the site, and even criticism, you can write to me on VKontakte, Instagram or Facebook (round icons below). Peace and happiness to everyone! ?

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In summer cottages, a compost heap is an indispensable attribute. After all, compost is an organic fertilizer of exceptional quality that enriches the soil with humus. Compost can partially or completely replace manure, mineral fertilizers or specially brought fertile soil, which is expensive for the present times. In addition, collecting garbage and organic waste for composting, we simply clean our summer cottage, and the area around it.

The compost heap or waste composting bins are usually placed in a sufficiently secluded area of \u200b\u200bthe site so that they will not be conspicuous or spoil the view. Nevertheless, they should always be, as they say, at hand. With the "classic" composting, it is necessary to create three compost heaps (or three compost bins): in one bin the waste is being laid, in the other the compost is maturing, in the third the finished fertilizer is waiting for removal to the beds. With regard to the size of the compost heap, most authors agree that its width should be 1.5 m; height - 1.0. 1.2 m; length - up to 3-4 m. It is these dimensions that are given in all kinds of reference books, and for many years they were considered the minimum necessary to provide a sufficiently high temperature and stable humidity for the normal course of the composting process. Using the same classical technology, it was advised to shovel the contents of the heaps annually to aerate the maturing compost, that is, to accelerate the decomposition of waste. The task, frankly, is not an easy one.

However, the composting technology in the garden has been constantly improved (and improved), so that the composting process was accelerated by 2.3 times. So, to preserve moisture in the compost heap and to increase its temperature, the compost was covered with plastic wrap with holes to provide air access. To speed up composting, various accelerators of this process have been developed, for example, the drug "Tamir". And the composition of organic and other components of the compost heap is easy to choose in such a way that the composting process in it will be significantly accelerated. In other words, today it is not at all necessary to follow the rather strict recommendations developed back in the 20th century. So nowadays, the compost heap can be made very small or for this purpose, waste can be piled into a compact container with a capacity of only 1 m 3, for example, by building it from boards.

However, remembering the cherished phrase - "laziness is the engine of progress", we will not build anything. Just take an old metal barrel without a bottom and tweak it a bit. First, to provide air access to the compostable mass in the lower part of the barrel along its perimeter, we will make a dozen two or three holes, which, for example, we will drill with a drill with a diameter of 8. 10 mm or with a punch (Fig. 1). Place the holes at 20.30 cm from the bottom of the barrel. No insulating spacers between the barrel and the ground are allowed for germs and moisture must circulate freely in both directions. Secondly, the outside of the barrel will be painted with a dark paint, due to which the walls of the barrel will heat up more under the sun, providing an increased temperature inside the barrel, which, of course, will speed up the composting process.

Cooking process; compost in such barrels is very convenient. We place 2.3 such compost barrels on the plot, placing them in those places where waste accumulates most quickly - near the summer kitchen (food waste), near the beds (weeds). To speed up the composting process, the individual components of the future compost should be placed in a certain sequence, forming layers of a certain thickness.

So, first, green plants (or substances rich in carbon) are placed in a barrel, making a layer 15.20 cm thick out of them. Then they put 5- a centimeter layer of manure (or nitrogen-rich substances). Next, lime, superphosphate or ash are poured into the barrel (layer - 1.2 mm), after which everything is covered with a centimeter layer of earth. So we fill the barrel to the top, again laying the layers of the components in the mentioned sequence - weeds, manure, ash and earth. Cover the filled barrel with a piece of polyethylene film with holes, which, so as not to be blown away by the wind, we fix on the barrel with a twine. And so that the prepared compost does not dry out, it is watered with water. Usually this watering is combined with watering the beds. Moisturizing the contents of the barrel, the plastic film is temporarily removed from it and a thin stream of water is sent into the barrel. Naturally, it is difficult to fill a barrel without a bottom with water, but you should not overmoisten the compost mass too much. The mass is considered normal, which corresponds to the moisture content of the squeezed sponge. If there are ants in the barrel, it means that it has dried up and the composting process has been interrupted.

To "automatically" maintain the specified humidity in the striker, plant a squash, pumpkin, cucumber in a barrel. In this case, the plastic film is no longer needed. Watering these plants provides the required moisture content for the compost mass. The only difficulty with this option is the need to immediately fill the barrel with layers of compost to the top.

Experience has shown that in such a design of a compost container - an old barrel, the process of composting is accelerated, so there is no need to wait any 3 years, as in the classic version. No need to shovel the compost. In one summer, you manage to get several hundred kg excellent fertilizer.

Figure: one. Composting in an iron barrel: 1- hole in the wall of the barrel; 2 - green mass; 3- manure; 4- ash; 5- land; 6- polyethylene.

Gusev V. Old barrel instead of the compost heap. // Almanac "Do it yourself". - 2004, No. 3.

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A compost pit from a barrel is a device thanks to which it is possible to produce fertilizer for a garden, a vegetable garden and a front garden in a private house, in the countryside, in the country or in a cottage. You will increase the yield of crops, and also solve the problem of fertilizing the soil. This reservoir is a barrel in which leaves, food debris, plants, and other organic matter are rotted under the influence of earthworms, earthworms, and other aerobes. If you have an empty barrel, then this is a great container in which to grind any waste.

The advantages of a compost pit in the country with your own hands from a barrel are as follows:

Most often the summer resident has all the materials for its assembly at hand.
An extremely simple process of installation and operation of the device.
You can easily get high-quality compost, which as a result can be used to fertilize the soil of your garden and garden.
You will not be bothered by leaves, weeds on the site. Everything will fulfill its function!
With proper installation and taking into account all the norms and requirements, you will not be disturbed by an unpleasant smell on the site.
The barrel does not spoil the appearance of the site at all, landscape design.
The device reliably protects the compost from external irritants.

As for the disadvantages, you will have to spend a little time to make the structure. Compared to a compost pit using Finnish technology, installation will cost you much less.

The device is a standard-sized metal or plastic barrel that is buried in the soil. It is placed slightly higher than the ground level (as a rule, it is 5-10 cm). Leaves, organic waste, vegetables and fruits, paper products are added to the tank, which eventually rot on their own and can be used as compost. Wheels are attached to the structure, thanks to which the barrel can be moved to the desired location. The compost is compacted regularly with a shovel, which needs to be stirred.

In order to make a compost pit from a barrel, you will need the following materials and tools:

barrel
6mm plywood
wooden beams 50x100 mm of different length
4 small rollers
nails
screws
jigsaw

drill driver
phillips bit and screwdriver
a hammer
saw (table, saber or conventional hacksaw)
pencil

The requirements for this design are the same as for a compost pit made of concrete rings. Before making a compost pit in the garden, it is imperative to consider the placement of the reservoir from the house, fence, neighbors and drinking sources. For example, the distance from the well should be 20 m, from the house - at least 12 m, from the fence - 2-3 m.It is especially worth controlling the distance to wells, rivers, lakes, drinking springs, rainwater streams, since compost affects the water, it spoils the palatability of the water and can infect the health of humans and animals. The tank should also be placed away from fruit trees as they will die. Be sure to take into account the level of groundwater, so that they do not flood the structure.

Also pay attention to the direction of the wind, it affects the spread of unpleasant odors in the area. Therefore, it is better to place the barrel somewhere near the fence, where it will not interfere with people. We recommend that you place it in the shade so that direct sunlight does not fall, as they contribute to the drying of humus, drying it out.

Humus needs to be watered and mixed frequently. This will contribute to its faster decay.

In terms of dimensions, there should be a standard barrel. In principle, tanks of any parameters are suitable. But you should take into account that the more compost you want to get, the more volume the installation should be.

There are also certain rules of what can and cannot be put in the tank. You can: the remains of tea, coffee, fruits, vegetables, paper, newspapers, toilet paper, cardboard, magazines, weeds, plants, fruits, berries, hay, grass, straw, leaves, tree roots and twigs, ash, wooden boards. Do not: inorganic substances, plastic, metal, rubber, infected plants and leaves, bones and animal excrement.

How to make a compost pit with your own hands? You will need step-by-step instructions, following which you will quickly and simply make a composter, in which all organic matter will effectively rot. There is one option for making a compost pit from a barrel with your own hands:

The first step is to make a lid. This can be done with 6 mm plywood. Place the barrel on the plywood, outline the outline of its neck. Next, you need to use a jigsaw or other saw to cut the circle.
After that, you need to cut off a couple of bars and fix them on the inside of the lid. Imagine several squares and place bars in their corners, inscribe a square in the neck of the barrel.
Use nails or screws to attach the sticks to the lid.

If the nails are very long, then you will need to bend the ends that stick out.

Next, you need to make a frame. This is a wooden rectangle on which the rollers are mounted. The length of the frame should be slightly longer than the barrel itself, and the width should be a quarter less than the width of the barrel. You will need beams 50x100 mm. Be sure to install plywood braces at the corners of the frame.
Then we install the rollers. In order for the tank to rotate, which contributes to faster and more efficient processing of organic matter in humus, you need to mount four rollers. 2 rollers on each long side of the tank. It does it by eye. Please note: the rollers must be fixed, this can be done using screws. This will help you change their placement if necessary.
Next, implement the installation of the stop to prevent the structure from sliding to one side. Fix the stop in the form of a regular board.
After that, you need to make a latch for the lid, which will help keep it in one place. It is attached by means of rubber bands with hooks. Drill several holes in the neck of the device. Mount the barrel itself.

Please note: if you want the compost to mix better, install more blocks inside the barrel.

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Are you against mineral chemical fertilizers? Do you want to minimize the use of chemical fertilizers in your garden? Then this article is for you. Take a look around. Right under your feet is what, when used correctly, will become humus that can be scattered in the garden, vegetable garden and flower beds.

Compost is a natural universal organic fertilizer, which can be obtained by any gardener, gardener and summer resident without extra material costs and without much difficulty. Compost has a beneficial effect on the structure and fertility of the soil. You just need to be able to properly prepare it.

Rule 1
Where and what is better to compost

Compost pit / heap
Compost box or barrel

Benefits of a compost pit / heap

No need to look for additional materials and no need to build anything. You just dug a hole no more than 0.5 m deep and 1.5 mx 1.5 m in size and put organic residues (kitchen waste, weeds, fallen leaves, etc.) into this hole (over time, a heap will turn out).

If desired, when the pit is filled flush with the ground, you can build on the walls. I have them about 0.5 m high. However, the compost heap has overcome this mark long ago. But I didn't build on anything.

If the compost pit / heap is supported by walls, then comfortable conditions will be created inside the pit for the work of anaerobic organisms that live only in the absence of atmospheric oxygen

Disadvantages of a compost pit / heap

There is a compost pit on my site, which has already turned into a heap. However, it is bulky, looks untidy (fortunately, it is located behind the barn and hidden from view). And most importantly, it is impossible for me to shovel it.

It will not be possible to obtain high-quality compost in a compost pit in 1 year. It will take at least 3 years. But earthworms it is visible and invisible. Worms are free there, they grow long and fat. It is in the compost pit that the husband digs worms when he is going fishing. And carp on such a worm is excellent.

Compost box or barrel

In the garden, I also put a basket and two compost barrels. It's comfortable. While plant residues for compost are piled in one container, in another container the compost matures under a lid, and the finished compost is removed from the third container for gardening needs.

I adapted a leaky metal barrel and a cracked plastic one for compost. I also punched holes in the bottom of the plastic.

The height of the barrels is no more than 70 cm, so that with my short stature it would be convenient for me to put plant residues in them and pour out the slops.

My compost box is made of boards. But you can make it from cement-bonded particle boards 20 mm thick or metal mesh.

Benefits of barrels or boxes

Can be placed anywhere in the garden / vegetable garden.
Due to its compactness, it will not take up much space.
Looks more aesthetically pleasing than a pit / heap.
Thanks to holes and cracks, we get a kind of ventilation, which means that enough air is supplied to the future compost, which is so necessary for the life of microorganisms.
The finished compost can be taken from the lower layers (through pre-made holes) as needed.
In a barrel or box, the compost does not dry out and is not washed out.
A barrel or box with matured compost can be adapted for growing cucumbers or zucchini. It turns out a kind of high bed.

Rule 2
What you can compost

1. All plant residues and weeds from the beds and garden, except:

* weeds with ripe seeds
* diseased plants
* weeds treated with herbicides

I put plant residues unsuitable for compost in a special pile hidden in the back behind the fence. Or I take it out of the site.

2. Mowed grass, fallen leaves, straw, sawdust and, if present, peat.

By the way, about the fallen leaves.
Leaf litter significantly improves the quality of the compost. But it all depends on the type of wood. For example, lime leaves, which contain a lot of lime, quickly decompose and form neutral humus, thereby enriching the compost.

3. Household (kitchen) waste, slops.

If slops from the kitchen are regularly poured into the barrel with compost, then the barrel can be left off on purpose. And so it takes up to 3-4 buckets of water a day.

4. Ashes and, if any, bird droppings.

The alternation of layers occurs naturally, which has a beneficial effect on the compost. The fact is that vegetable peelings, weeds, mown grass contain a lot of nitrogen, sawdust - carbon, ash - potassium and trace elements.

Manure (slurry) I don't put it in compost. First, we do not have this "good". Secondly, with manure there is a risk of bringing diseases and pests into the compost. Here it is necessary to ensure that the compost is rotted for 2 years, or maybe 3, depending on the conditions.

It is not necessary to add soil to the compost heap. This can lower the putrefaction temperature and thus slow down the organic composting process.

But ash useful to add to the compost barrel. Not only is it a source of trace elements and potassium, but it also neutralizes the acidity of the compost. Indeed, as you know, beneficial bacteria do not develop in an acidic environment.

Can human excrement be added to compost?

In other words, the entire contents are fermented and disinfected in the compost heap or pit. The same, in fact, applies to manure. But it just takes more time. At least 1.5 years, and preferably 2.

So this is a rather psychological question. There are gardeners and gardeners who simply disdain.

In general, slurry and human excrement accelerate the maturation of compost, which will be discussed below.

Should the compost bin or compost heap be closed?

Experienced gardeners say yes.
But I never did that. The fact is that I have both barrels and heaps in the shade. It is in the shade that the processes of decay and fermentation take place better. In the sun, these processes slow down.

So if your barrels or compost pits are in direct sunlight, then cover them up.

Rule 3
How to speed up the maturation of compost

First, use barrels or small boxes. In them, the compost will ripen faster.

Secondly, grind plant residues. There are even special garden shredders for creating mulch. True, they are expensive. But if you can afford it, then go ahead.

Third, it is good to spill compost infusion of weeds (nettle, wormwood, burdock, dandelion, etc.).

We take an enameled bucket (those who are not afraid of volumes can take a plastic barrel). Fill it tightly by 1/3 with a green mass (it is better to break and crush it with your hands beforehand). Pour warm water, close the lid and leave somewhere in the garden for a week. And then pour it (right along with the green mass into the compost barrel). If necessary, add a new infusion to the bucket.

By the way, it is useful to water garden crops and flowers with such an infusion. This is a kind of liquid feeding for them.

Would you like to mess with the infusion?
Then the leftover tea leaves and coffee grounds will help you. Fill them with warm water and spill the compost in barrels.

And of course, mistresses, do not forget about slops. And the bucket was taken out, and the compost heap was spilled.

But don't rush the time. On maturation of high-quality compost should go not less than 2 years, and sometimes it takes 3 years.

It all depends on the plant residues themselves and on the conditions that will be created in the compost barrel, heap or pit.

Of course, you can get compost in 1 year, even in a season. It will work out sooner compost soil... Of course, it will be more nutritious than the garden one. However, non-decayed plant residues can remain in it. At the same time, both in mechanical and chemical composition, it will differ from the humus that we get from a compost barrel or heap in two to three years.

Rule 4
Signs of good quality compost

In high-quality compost, there should be no non-rotted plant residues.
It should be loose and uniform.
It does not require any sifting.
Such compost can be handled. It won't stick together like snowballs.
Smell! Yes Yes. The smell of ready-made high-quality compost comes out pleasant. It is like the smell of damp forest soil in the fall. Have you picked mushrooms? Remember how mycelium smells? This smell should come from the correct, fully matured compost.

Now you know what to do and what not to do to get a natural, universal organic fertilizer - compost... And may your labors pay off handsomely.

Rich harvests for you,
Katerina Shlykova

Quoting and partial copying articles and stories, possibly indicating the source in the form active link to the corresponding page of the site.

source

In this article, we will talk about how to make your own compost using special tools. It turns out that it is quite easy to make a compost box with your own hands. This device is used as a fence for a compost heap at a summer cottage. You can also use empty barrels, containers from various bulk substances.

After choosing a place, it remains to be done with the container itself for filling. Plastic box or wooden? Plastic is prettier and more durable, but the boards are more affordable - everyone has a stack of old boards in the barn ...

In order to make a compost box with your own hands, you need only 4 short boards, 50-70 cm long. Set on the grass in the form of a low box and secure with pegs. Or nail them together. Keep the composter low - in early summer the build-up of kitchen waste and weeds is slow, and there will be plenty of time to think of something better.

A box with a height of 2-3 boards for many will be quite sufficient for the season, by the fall you will just fill it with a slide.

By the way, it is not necessary to enclose the composter on four sides: the simplest compost bin can be limited only on two sides by boards. Or even from one side - from the front.

In garden centers and other household retail outlets, you can find plastic composters of various shapes and sizes (which they do not offer us there: boxes, "suitcases", tanks, "hives", "flying saucers".). The volume of one barrel (150-200 liters) and above (400-900 liters). Such an organic storage device is installed in the garden. With their help, you can prepare a wide variety of types of compost, because in a plastic container, very favorable conditions are created for overheating and processing of any type of waste.

Plastic can be considered the best material for organic recycling. It is neutral (steel corrodes quickly from organic compounds), lightweight, durable (as opposed to boards that rot from below) and relatively cheap.

The large plastic composter is reliable in maintaining the conditions for the maturation of the compost due to its size. It "breathes" well enough, so special slots in the walls, which are available in some models, are not required.

For composting, any other household plastic container is used: boxes, buckets from building materials, leaky basins. Plastic containers, if necessary, are immediately interchanged, it can be temporarily withdrawn from fertilizer production for other garden needs (sheltering plants on cold nights, heating water in the sun for irrigation, growing seedlings ...). For this reason, one cannot give an unconditional preference to large containers like 150-200 liter plastic drums. Such barrels, of course, are very practical, very productive, but in addition to them, a "park" of smaller buckets and containers of 50-60 liters or 10-20 liters will not interfere. Organic feeding in the high season is never superfluous!

Fruit traders today use all kinds of disposable plastic crates with lattice bottom, which they often throw away after liberation. These small boxes are suitable for a multi-tier composter, as they have a slatted bottom, they are joined to each other with special grooves. So, they are used for vermicompost: the next box with fresh food for earthworms is delivered above the lower boxes with the food turned into humus. The boxes can also be used for regular compost, as the grates will create air layers between the layers - this is very beneficial for the compost, which is periodically moistened from the watering can.

The simplest plastic composter is a plastic garbage bag or regular grocery bag. Some gardeners use this "capacity". The bag is filled with wet grass or foliage, tied and left somewhere in the shade for several months, and the decomposed humus is removed. It is important that the packages do not become caked during storage.

House compost is prepared using organic storage devices, which differ from those considered in that they are located not in the garden, but somewhere in the living room: on the balcony, on the staircase, or even in the kitchen itself. It has a modest size - 10-15 liters, apparently with the expectation that a housewife could easily lift it.

For the first time, it causes bewilderment in the gardener: isn't it too small? But this is purely for peeling potatoes!

Yes, this composter is for the winter period, when the garden lies under the snow and the organic matter is reduced to daily kitchen waste according to the principle “if we fill one composter, we take it away, and put the next one in its place”. It is more correct to talk about a battery of several such composters that can be started, say, living all year round in a country house. Filled, they are stored in the cellar or on the veranda until spring.

A small kitchen plastic composter is not just a "trash bin", it has its own structure: at the bottom there is a grate to hold the bulk of the waste. An air gap forms under it, it provides breathing of the compost. It is important that this compartment is not filled with liquid. To drain it, a valve was made to drain excess liquid.

Kitchen composter... It is understood that it is still not in the kitchen itself, but somewhere in the stairwell or in the glazed loggia, in the garage, in the frost-free shed, in the winter greenhouse, etc. Because the smell from it will inevitably be “not chanel”, just remove the cover once to discard the next cuttings. Of course, you will not regret using it with microbial preparations, but only they do not always cope ... It fills up rapidly. In the city, in a glazed loggia, a battery of filled composters will accumulate until spring. But in the spring they will go to the site in the back seat of a car.

Planks are the favorite material for large composters among our gardeners. There are compost bins with a height of a person's height and higher, assembled from boards, sometimes upholstered with sheets of galvanized iron. The preparation of compost and compost heap begins with choosing a suitable location on the site and installing a device there.

For the base of a volumetric box, 4 stakes, beams or logs are usually driven into or driven into the ground. Boards are nailed to them from the sides. If there are not enough of these side boards, then a rarefied frame is made of them and then strips of galvanized iron or, for example, ondulin, sometimes roofing material, are nailed.

In the first season, it is filled with all kinds of plant material, and the next season, while it matures, pumpkins are planted on top so that the garden area does not go to waste. Very large pumpkins are produced here. There are so many nutrients in the compost that taking some of them with pumpkin roots will not deplete our fertilizer. You have probably seen such tall thickets of pumpkins near fences and sheds - these are maturing heaps of compost. Sometimes cucumbers are planted instead of pumpkins.

The same boxes are made for composting manure or peat.

In European countries, all kinds of compost walls made of concrete are common. Often these are just two "walls", installed at right angles (horizontally or vertically) somewhere near the outbuildings, where garden debris is thrown, including autumn foliage (you have to put it somewhere, sweeping the yard). Temporarily inactive greenhouses made of concrete slabs are also used as a composter. Concrete is also an environmentally friendly material, it is one of the most suitable materials for a composter, as it is durable and strong, maintains the required moisture well, and contact with organic materials does not destroy it, unlike wood.

Unfortunately, it is rare to find flat concrete blocks specially for composters on sale. Wide garden tiles are suitable as a substitute. A box made of such tiles looks neater and more fundamental than a "kennel" made of boards. It is also worth considering the option of how to prepare compost in a barrel: this container is great for overheating any waste.

I needed compost. It doesn't matter if he is ready to the end or not, but autumn has come, and it is time to act. We extract the property and use it economically “on the squares”. Compost bin, it is more convenient to remove it immediately, if possible.

Undecomposed stem fibers will certainly remain in the compost, which will make it difficult to extract, transfer and dig in. Therefore, you usually have to grind it a little with a shovel right in place with blows from above, so that the blade goes to the ground. But now the compost is easy to mix and pour into buckets.

You can grind the compost there, at the place of application, in the garden bed or in the trunk circle, if you carry it nearby and manage to throw it on a pitchfork. This contributes to a more even digging: they scattered the compost over the surface of the garden bed, chopped it up with a shovel - it had already mixed a little with the ground - and then dug it in.

A small bonus is loose and nutritious soil from under the compost to the depth of a shovel bayonet, which doubles the amount of our highly nutritious fertilizer. It always becomes more nutritious than it used to be, because toilet flush accumulates here, and if the compost is entirely vegetable, then earthworms are based here, they saturate it with caprolites. Compost ennobles everything on which it lies: sand, peat, the grassy soil of the garden. This land should also be spread over the plantings, and the resulting hole should be filled with turf or earth from another place. With a plastic composter, the matter will be somewhat more painstaking: the humus material is removed carefully with a wooden spatula or scoop.

But what if the compost is not ripe, is it possible to add it already?

If it has been fortified with nitrogen, then it can be applied with confidence. Indeed, in the fall, even newly obtained, completely undecomposed plant residues can be brought in for digging along with nitrogen fertilizer.

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Compost pile for the lazy
11/20/2009 Labels: humus, compost, compost box, manure, do it yourself

So a modern compost heap can be made compact or stacked for this purpose in a small container with a capacity of about 1 cubic meter. meter, making it from boards.

But, as you know, laziness is the engine of progress, so it may not cost anything to build. Just take an old metal barrel without a bottom and tweak it a bit:

Secondly, we paint the barrel on the outside in a dark color to heat it better in the sun, which will provide a high temperature inside and speed up the composting process.

To speed up the production of compost, fertilizer components should be laid in a certain order, forming layers of a certain thickness:

First, place green plants or carbon-rich substances, making them a layer 15-20 cm thick.

Then put in 5 cm of manure or nitrogen-rich substances.

Then we tear everything with a centimeter layer of earth.

So we fill the barrel to the top, continuing to lay the layers in the same sequence - weeds, manure, ash, earth.

This design of the compost heap in the form of a barrel significantly accelerates the composting process. And there is no need to wait 3 years, as in the classic version. No need to shovel the compost. In one summer, you can get several hundred kg of excellent fertilizer.

source Benefits for the environment
Composting provides a free, top-notch soil conditioner that accelerates the growth of plants in your home and garden, lawns.
Composting.

Converts waste into a valuable resource
Allows heavy clay and sandy soils to lighten
Reduces erosion
Helps soil retain moisture
Promotes plant health, accelerates growth and increases yields
Improves the nutritional quality of homemade foods
Improves soil structure, making it fibrous, which prevents leaching
Returns nutrients from waste back to the ground
Reduces the volume of waste
Reduces dependence on toxic chemicals and pesticides
Reduces the need of trees and other plants for additional water
Supports the diversity of organisms in your area

What do you need for composting?
The main elements are organic materials (food and waste from the yard), air and water in the correct quantities.
To be effective, you should also have a container for collecting kitchen waste; a pitchfork, shovel or other device for turning the compost;
basket or bin (for compost) in the backyard.

Homemade rectangular compost bin
Organic materials should be placed in the box immediately. Closed boxes keep pests out, keep heat and moisture.
Different boxes have different features.
You can make your own box from wire, wood or old pallets. The minimum size of the compost bin is approximately 90x90x90 cm.

Box of wire rings
Such a box can be easily carried, turned over, and also raked out of the finished compost. If he dares the bolts, just remove them, and by pulling on the drawer, free your compost heap from the net. By moving it to another place, you can make a new compost heap.
Advantages: mobility, the ability to turn the pile, speeding up the composting process.

These composting drums can be made from recycled plastic or metal waste drums.

Take your old one-liter barrel and poke a half-inch (about 13 mm) hole in it at intervals of about 15 centimeters or so to allow air circulation.

Compost box made of blocks.

The compost bin can be made from bricks, cement blocks or stones.

All organic materials contain a specific ratio of carbon to nitrogen, which is known as the C: N ratio. For best results, your compost heap needs a balance between carbon and nitrogen. Organic materials can be divided into two categories:

"Green" and "Brown". "Green" or "nitrogen-rich" organic materials are moist and usually green in color, such as grass clippings or fruits or vegetables.

"Brown" or "carbon-rich" organic materials are usually dry, woody, brown in color. These are, for example, fallen leaves, cuttings of tree branches.

baked foods including bread

vermicelli (pasta) and rice (other grains)

coffee sediment and filters (not plastic)

Fruit and vegetable trimmings and stubs

shredded paper (newspapers, cereal boxes, wrapping paper, etc.)

mowed grass from the lawn

plant clippings (not chemically treated)

any meat, including chicken, fish and shellfish

all dairy products, including cheese

weeds with mature seeds

chemically treated plants

large branches, roots, etc.

plants previously treated with non-degradable pesticides

The table lists materials that can be used for composting and materials that should not be used.

Composting conditions

Air:
Air is essential for the breakdown of organic materials in an aerobic environment. It is needed for quick disintegration without an unpleasant odor. When there is a lack of oxygen in the compost heap, it starts to smell like a rotten egg. Aeration removes unpleasant odors and accelerates the decay process.

Here are a couple of ways to ensure aeration in the compost heap:

Turn and turn your compost pile with a fork or shovel, or use a special aeration device. Tedding the compost heap also favors the addition of new materials (needing composting). To reduce the need to turn the pile, a ventilation duct can be used, for which a piece of pipe or a bundle of branches can be used. This will allow air to penetrate deeper into the heap. There are no clear rules on how often to turn the pile or how to aerate the compost. Many factors determine how often you need to turn, such as the size of the heap, the types and amounts of composting materials added to the heap, how quickly you want to get ready-made compost, for example. As a general rule of thumb, the more you work with the compost, the faster it will be ready. Turn the pile every week or two and composting will proceed faster if other necessary conditions are maintained during this time.

If the compost heap is sufficiently moist and aerated, consists of a well-balanced mixture of materials, has sufficient volume, temperature inside the heap it can reach over 55 degrees Celsius. The optimum temperature range is from plus 30 to plus 60 degrees Celsius.

Self-heating is the result of the activity of microorganisms that destroy organic materials. The higher the temperature, the more work done by microorganisms. The compost heap should be warm or hot to the touch on the inside. A temperature higher than 55 degrees Celsius or higher is desirable because it kills weed seeds and speeds up the composting process. In the process of decomposition of organic matter, first the temperature of the compost heap rises to its maximum, then decreases to about 30 degrees.

Moisture is needed to keep the decay process active in your heap. Microorganisms that decompose organic matter need moisture in order for the metabolism to occur at an optimal rate. Practice shows that the pile should have approximately the same moisture as a well wrung out sponge after soaking. A good method of checking the moisture level is to take some compost and squeeze it in a fist, a couple of drops of water should seep through your fingers. If the pile is too dry, the composting activity is reduced and may stop. Increasing the moisture in the heap is simple: use a garden hose or watering can. Turn the pile over as soon as it is wet to distribute the moisture evenly. Another easy way is to open the tank lid and let the compost heap soak in the rain (assuming the composter has a lid). If the pile is too wet, it can fade and smell like a rotten egg. There are a couple of ways to solve this problem: turn the pile so that excess moisture can evaporate, the second way is to add dry (carbonaceous, "brown") materials that will absorb excess moisture.

How long does composting take?

The composting time is highly dependent on various interacting factors. If you want to preserve all the nutrients - chop the materials before composting, maintain optimal moisture levels, turn the pile every week, then the compost will be ready in two to three months. Typically, add materials as soon as they are formed, turn the pile from time to time and maintain a normal moisture level, this is enough to make the compost ready for use in 5-6 months.

The first time you make a compost heap, it is a good idea to layer the materials right away. Start at the bottom with branches or other rough materials. The layer must be at least

5 centimeters thick. This will allow air to enter the pile from below. Next, alternate between the "brown" and "green" material layers. Each of these layers should preferably be 5-10 centimeters thick. Add thin (no more than 2 cm) soil from your garden, which is needed to bring the microorganisms to the pile. This method of layering is a good way to start the composting process. After a few days, you can start mixing the materials by turning the compost or just adding new materials to the composter for now. When adding new materials to the composter, especially kitchen waste, it's a good idea to bury them inside the pile.

Or add a small layer of soil or some “brown” material on top of fresh materials. Following this rule will prevent various pest problems such as fruit flies. Remember, also one more thing - when adding to compost, try to use twice as much "brown" materials as "green". It is also recommended to mix coarse and soft (as well as fine) materials to prevent the pile from crushing.

Useful note: If you want to activate a pile, try adding manure, high nitrogen fertilizer, or lawn clippings to it.

Using compost before it is ready can damage your plants. Undecomposed "brown" materials in the soil can temporarily reduce plant-friendly nitrogen levels. Non-decomposed green materials can harbor pests and diseases. Unripe compost can contain weed seeds as well as root-damaging organic acids.

→ it has an earthy smell, not sour, not rotten, does not smell like ammonia

→ does not heat up, even after turning and moistening

→ looks like dark soil

→ crumbly, it is impossible to identify the remains of food, grass, leaves and other things inside.

Even with the constant addition of new materials and the heap is mixed, a layer of finished compost will form near the bottom. It can be collected by removing the top layer of unripe compost - just peel it off gently and set it aside. After harvesting the "mature" compost in this way, replace the unripe compost.
To remove materials that have not been decomposed from the finished compost, sift the compost through a mesh or metal sheet with holes. The hole diameter of your "sieve" should be approximately 7-21 mm. depending on the permissible "roughness" of the finished compost. Remains of uncompostable raw materials can be sent back to the compost heap.

Using your compost
There are many uses for compost, such as:
→ it can be directly consumed in the garden or in the flowerbed by adding it to the soil.
→ Sprinkle (mulch) the soil around plant trunks, especially trees during the growing period. In this case, nutrients from the compost will pass through the soil and the plant root system.
→ Feed the plants in your lawn by spreading a thin layer of compost directly over the grass. This will help mix the compost with the soil.
→ The compost can be used in the mail for houseplants and seedlings. It is recommended to use a mixture of half potting soil and half compost for starting and replanting plants.
→ Use compost as a soil conditioner by burying it in the soil when planting flowers and vegetables. Or spread the finished compost over your lawn as fertilizer.
→ Brew compost tea. Place some compost in a nylon stocking and cover with water. The nutrients will be released from the compost into the water. Use the resulting "tea" to water flowers, vegetable plants and "outdoor" plants.
Useful note: If bugs bother you when using compost at home, sterilize it. All that is required for this is to warm it up in an oven (oven) at a temperature of about 80 ° C for half an hour.

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