The floor in the basement of a private house. Preparatory activities and earthworks

The construction of a concrete floor in the basement significantly increases the comfort of its operation and protects the room from ground moisture and pests. This is especially important for heated basements and residential basements.

We will tell you how to concrete the basement floor with your own hands.

Why is she needed

The question is often asked: "Do I need to concrete the floor in the basement?" To answer it, you need to find out what the purpose is. basement, and what are the conditions for its operation.

Concreting the basement floor will be advisable if:

• The room is heated;
• The premises are used as living quarters;
• The basement contains a workshop, gym, sauna, garage, etc .;
• IN basement floor is a boiler room or other utility room;
• and perishable products;
• Observed high humidity in the underground of the first floor and in the basement itself.

Important!
Availability open ground allows the moisture in it to constantly enter the basement atmosphere.
When a room is heated, convection creates a kind of pump that evaporates moisture from the surface, making the topsoil dry, and the ground absorbs a new portion of the liquid, which, in turn, evaporates again - and so on in a circle.

Gradually, the air humidity rises in the room, and moisture begins to settle in the form of condensation on all cool surfaces - pipes, walls, ceilings, equipment and furniture. As a result, these structures absorb a large number of water and begin to deteriorate, since many of the elements that make up their composition dissolve in water.

Drinking water concrete walls foundations also suffer: as a result of electrochemical corrosion, steel reinforcement is destroyed, and from concrete is washed out whole line connections.

Important!
Lack of concrete flooring in a heated basement leads to premature deterioration of the foundation structures and costly complex repairs.
If restoration measures are not taken in a timely manner, then the consequences can be much more deplorable, up to the emergency state of the entire house.

If the basement is unheated and used exclusively for storage winter storage, then the floor in it need not be concreted.

Benefits

Pouring concrete into the basement floor is the first step to creating a cozy basement space.

What are the benefits of a concrete floor in a home basement?

Their mass:

• Availability of durable concrete base makes it possible to re-equip or living quarters;
• A layer of concrete together with the obligatory waterproofing prevents the convection suction of moisture from the soil, which significantly reduces the humidity in the basement and extends the service life of many building structures, including the walls of the foundation and the floor of the first floor;
• Possibility of placement under the screed thermal insulation materials allows you to significantly improve the energy efficiency of the heated;
• The general sanitary conditions of the basement are improved, as the dirt and dust created by the soil disappears along with the moisture;
• Concrete prevents rodents, insects and other pests that live in burrows underground from entering the cellar. Also, plants do not germinate in it and fungal organisms do not start;
• Concrete creates a solid foundation on which any heavy equipment can be installed: generator, heating boiler, etc.

Important!
Floor screed - the only way get rid of the peculiar "basement" atmosphere, dampness and an unpleasant musty smell.

It is also worth recalling that all these advantages can come to you with little effort: the price of materials for floor screed is relatively low, and all the work can be done independently.

Mounting

1. The earth on the floor should be dug out by 20 - 30 cm and leveled, and then tamped with a vibrating plate;

1. Then we make a bedding from clay - 10 cm, and then from gravel with sand - 10 cm. We also add a bedding with a rammer;

1. We lay construction polyethylene film with a thickness of at least three hundred micrometers. The overlap on the walls should be at least 7 - 10 cm;

1. We put on special plastic props reinforcing grid with a cell size of no more than 5 centimeters and a bar thickness of at least 3 mm. We tie individual pieces of the lattice with a knitting wire into one whole;

1. We install beacons over the grate so that minimum distance from the lighthouse to the reinforcement ranged from 30 mm. We set the lighthouses using a level in one horizontal plane. The step between the beacons is 20% less than the length of the rule;

1. Along the perimeter of the room, on all walls, we glue a damper tape, which will level the temperature expansion of the concrete stone. For this, it is better to bend the film and apply the tape directly to the wall;

1. Cooking cement-sand mortar for concreting. The proportion is 1: 3: 5 (cement / sand / gravel). To do this, use a concrete mixer, as to prepare quality solution a shovel will not work;

1. We pour the solution between two beacons and smooth it out with the rule, moving the rule along the beacons along the strip and from left to right, as if describing a sinusoid;

1. We fill the entire floor and wait for it to begin to set. When it will be possible to walk along the floor, using a sheet of plywood in order not to inherit it, we remove the beacons from the screed and putty the furrows with a cement-sand mortar;

1. Covering the floor plastic wrap and wait for it to gain strength. Complete maturation of concrete - up to 28 days.

Important!
If the dimensions of the room are more than 7 meters on one side, or it has an L-shaped shape, then expansion joints will have to be built on the floor.
To do this, when pouring into the screed, one-third of the thickness is inserted into wooden strips so as to break the floor into approximately equal squares, and the grooves from them are filled with a special damper material and closed.

Output

The construction of a screed in the basement significantly improves the quality of operation of this room and allows you to re-equip it for any purpose. You can make a screed yourself, simply by following the points of our step by step guide... For clarity, we offer you a video in this article that will help you better understand the screed installation process.

It is quite difficult to arrange the floor in the cellar on your own, since for this you need to know many different nuances. Have professional craftsmen, who have been engaged in such buildings and their arrangement for a long time, have relevant experience and, of course, their secrets, acquired by them over the years of practical work.

Of course, any owner of a private property sooner or later comes to the conclusion that a cellar in the house is necessary, especially if there is a vegetable garden on the site. Winter supplies will not interfere with any family, no need to run to the store for pickles, jam and compotes. And for vegetables in the basement, you can take a corner, as they say - everything is at hand. But in order for all these products to be safe throughout the long winter season, the cellar must be dry, ventilated and at a certain temperature.

So that the work is not in vain, and you do not have to dig a new cellar, you need to choose the right place for its construction, and it will depend primarily on how high the groundwater is located.

Cellars are arranged under the house, garage, or separately from all buildings. On the one hand, the basement under the house is much more convenient than a separate one. worthwhile option, for the reasons that it does not take up space on the site, and in the winter cold you do not need to leave the house to take food.

But, on the other hand, starting to dig a cellar under the building, you can get to the bottom of groundwater, and this can harm the foundation and walls of a house or garage, which is fraught with deformation, cracking and even collapse of the structure.

Of course it is possible, as a last resort make a bed of sand and clay and work on waterproofing, but this also does not guarantee that after a certain time the water will not wash off such a "pillow" and will not begin to penetrate into the basement.

Therefore, if a decision is made to build an underground storage under any structure, you need to find out exactly at what depth in a given area the waters lie.

If the cellar is built separately, then the place should be chosen, if possible, on a hill, where the groundwater passes deeply and the sewage does not stagnate.

How to determine the depth of groundwater?

The groundwater level must be determined in the spring, when, during the massive snow melt, they rise as much as possible. This can be done by looking into nearby wells or wells, or by resorting to folk methods.

When choosing a place for a basement or digging a well, the craftsmen paid attention to the plants that grow in a certain place.

• If they grow there moisture-loving plants, such as horsetail, reed or horse sorrel, it is better to dig a well in this place.
• If even plants that are unpretentious to the level of humidity wither in a not very hot summer, then this place is perfect for arranging a cellar.

There is one more old way, which is used by experts to determine the presence of water. To perform this experiment, you will need a piece of wool and a fresh egg. Small plot the land where it is planned to dig a cellar must be cleaned of the sod layer and put an egg and wool, then close them with a clay pot.

In the morning, when the sun rises, you need to check if the items are still dry or covered with dew:

If they are wet, you cannot dig a cellar here - the water is close to the surface;

If the egg is dry and the coat is wet, the water is deep enough;

If the items are dry, the water is very deep and you can safely start working.

Pit

When the place is chosen, you can start digging the pit. Its depth must be calculated taking into account the fact that the floor will need to be raised by at least 50 cm, so you will have to go deeper at least three meters.

The pit will have to be dug by hand so as not to violate the integrity and structure of the soil that will be around the pit. Diggers are able to dig a pit quickly, but not accurately. When opening, the verticality and integrity of the walls should be maintained as much as possible.

After the hole is dug, you should immediately start preparing the floor area.

Floor device

The first thing to do in the pit is the floor. If there is no danger of groundwater penetration, then the floor is installed in almost the same way as in a house on the ground. But, if you want to play it safe, then arrange a drainage system that will help in removing unwanted moisture. Installation of drainage, of course, is a troublesome business, but having done it once, you do not have to pump out water from the basement and arrange re-waterproofing.

Drainage in the cellar

Internal drainage in the basement can be done when installing the floor, or already in finished basementif dampness begins to appear there. But in the latter case, you will have to work much more, since, most likely, it will be necessary to dismantle separate areas floor to lay drainage pipes... Therefore, it is better to think about the possibility of this problem occurring in advance, even if it seems that there is no danger.

In order for the entire drainage structure not to fall apart and crumble, strip foundation, which is raised to the height of the future floor. For this, the following activities are carried out.

• A trench 50 ÷ 70 cm deep, twice as wide as the future wall, is being dug along the perimeter of the pit.

• At the bottom of the trench, a 10 cm sand cushion is laid, then compacted well.
• On top of it, crushed stone is poured in a layer of 10 ÷ 15 cm, and is also compacted.
• Further, a waterproofing film is laid, it should come out of the trench half a meter on each side, since further above the ground, it will be necessary to install the formwork.
• A coarse concrete solution is poured onto the film, consisting of cement and gravel - this layer should be 10 ÷ 12 cm. It is left to gain strength for 6 ÷ 7 days.

• After the laid layer has solidified, a reinforcing cage is installed in the trench.
• When the frame is installed, on top of the soil, formwork is installed on both sides of the trench, then the film is spread over it. In the place where the collecting tank will be installed, before pouring into the formwork, a pipe is installed through and through, to which it will be connected drainage system.
• Further, concrete mortar is poured into the trench in layers. Each layer should be 15 ÷ 20 cm. After each pouring, the mortar should be carefully tamped. This is necessary in order to remove air voids from the solution. Each layer must set before the next is poured.

• After 5-7 days, the formwork is removed, and clay is filled around the foundation, pouring water over it and tamping it.

When the foundation is ready, you can proceed to the drainage device.

• Within the foundation, a sand pillow, 10-15 cm thick, is poured under the walls of the basement and compacted.
• Depressions are made in the sand along the walls or under the entire floor area in the form of trenches running parallel to the short wall of the future room and to each other.
• If the ceiling in the already built basement is high enough, and you can painlessly raise the floor surface by 40-50 cm, then you do not have to dismantle individual sections of the existing coating - sand can be poured directly onto it. The sand cushion is calculated in such a way that the thickness above and below the pipe laid in it is at least 10-15 cm.
• Geofiber is spread on the sand, with the expectation of a deepening in the surface for laying pipes. Crushed stone is laid on the geotextile, in a layer of 15-20 cm, also supporting the grooves.
• A drainage system is mounted on top of the crushed stone layer. Pipes are laid in the grooves made, holes down. All pipes are led into a collecting chamber, from which one outlet pipe emerges. In the diagram, the design of the drainage system is clearly visible.
• On top of the pipes, another layer of crushed stone is poured of the same thickness as below, leveled and covered with a layer of geotextile.

Having completed the device of all layers of the drainage system, it will be possible to make a screed on top of them.

Casting rough screed

If all these procedures were carried out in a pit dug for the future basement, and the walls will be erected only after the screed is installed, then the following actions are taken:

An expanded clay layer is poured onto the laid geotextile, the thickness of which should be about 10 cm;

A polyethylene film is laid on top of expanded clay;

A reinforcing mesh is laid on the film and beacons are installed to level the floor;

The last stage is the pouring and leveling of the concrete using the rule. Calculate so that the surface of the screed is flush with the foundation.

After the concrete floor has solidified, walls are erected along the foundation. It is best to pre-fix the waterproofing material on the walls of the pit.

If a large gap has formed between the wall of the basement and the foundation pit (and this is most often the case), it must be filled with clay as the walls are being erected, moistening and tamping it.

When the walls are raised, the wall and floor joints need waterproof from the inside.

Waterproofing

For this process, there are several types of materials that act on the surface in different ways, but they are all used to achieve the same goal - to protect the floors and walls of the basement from moisture.

Coating waterproofing

For waterproofing the basement from the inside (especially for the joints of the walls and the floor surface) use different types coating waterproofing.

1. One of them is a compound of polymers and bitumen mastic, which makes the mixture plastic and therefore easy to apply. This composite compound is sometimes called liquid rubber... It is sold in stores under the name "Elastomix" or "Elastopaz".

The convenience of these mastics lies in the fact that they do not require heating before being applied to the surface, and also do not emit harmful heavy vapors, therefore, they are the best suited for waterproofing closed rooms.

The waterproofing process takes place in three stages:

The surface is cleaned of dust and debris.

Then the floor surface and all joints are carefully primed with a special, under liquid rubber, primer "Paz Primer". This solution must be mixed well before use and applied to the surface with a brush.

First, the composition covers the corner joints and seams of the wall and floor connection, and then the entire surface of the floor and walls is smeared. The primer should be well absorbed into the surface and dry - this will take 4-5 hours.

After that, they proceed to applying liquid rubber using a spray gun or brush. It is necessary that every corner is covered with the composition. The coating also begins with the corners and joints, and then the entire primed surface is covered with the mixture.

"Elastomix" has a thicker consistency, so it is applied with a spatula.

2. Another means for film waterproofing is water glass. This material is similar in the process of applying it to a surface with liquid rubber, but differs in that, when solidified, it does not allow moisture to pass through, but also air masses.

It is quite possible to carry out waterproofing work on your own, and this can be attributed to positive factors.

Another waterproofing method that is available using this material is plastering work on the walls of the cellar with the addition of cement mortar liquid glass.

Waterproofing works using liquid glass are considered the fastest and accessible method, therefore, they are used quite often.

Penetrating surface protection

Penetrating compounds start to work, getting on concrete, and penetrating into the structure of the material. The composition crystallizes, closing all pores and creating additional bonds in the crystal structure. Such solutions keep the room from moisture penetration, but allow the structure to "breathe". It is necessary to take into account one more positive property of this composition - if it is applied to the surface in several layers, it can soak the material to a very significant depth.

Layers of such protective solutions are applied no earlier than 2 hours after applying the previous one. The stages of applying penetrating solutions do not differ from the film type of waterproofing.

One of the most popular of the penetrating waterproofers is "Crystallisol".

Roll materials

Due to the affordability, roofing material is most often used for waterproofing work. But, compared with modern coating or penetrating materials, today it is not as relevant as it has a number of significant drawbacks. Working with it takes a lot of time, since it must be glued onto a bituminous mastic, which dries for a long time, and at the same time, it does not always give the desired results.

Works using roofing material are as follows:

The floor surface is well cleaned of debris;

Then, the surface is applied bituminous mastic It should be noted that the entire surface of the floor and walls by 15-20 cm must be completely covered;

Next comes the laying of sheets of roofing material. This is a rather complex process in which two people must participate - one heats up the mastic applied to the floor and the lower surface with a burner roll material, and the second applies and levels roofing material;

The second sheet must be overlapped with the first by 12-15 cm, the joint distance must be additionally coated with mastic. This is repeated until the entire floor is covered with roofing material. In the same way, that part of the roofing material is glued that goes to lower part walls 15-20 cm.

Now, when the waterproofing is completely ready, you can complete the arrangement of the floor by pouring a small leveling screed with appropriate reinforcement. On it, if desired, it will be quite easy to lay tiles or make another covering, for example, from boards. However, some owners prefer to leave just the concrete floor or even cover it with a compacted layer of clay-sand mixture.

Video: work on waterproofing the floor in the cellar

When starting to build a cellar, you need to carefully study all the processes from start to finish, since each of them determines how reliable and durable the building will be. If in doubt that you can handle this task on their own, it is better not to experiment, but to invite a specialist to carry out these works.

The basement is deep underground, therefore, cementing and waterproofing of floors and walls should be done. expedient in case:

• basement heating;
• use as a living room;
• applications for the arrangement of a workshop, gym, garage, sauna;
• placement of a boiler room or similar technical rooms;
• placing a cellar for storing food;
• high soil moisture.

When exposed to humid fumes from damp earth, pipes, furniture, equipment, wall and ceiling decoration deteriorate. The house may be in disrepair.

Tools and materials

To complete the process, you will need the following tools:

• bucket;
• shovel;
• grater and trowel;
• base rammer;
• container for concrete solution;
• grinder;
• level;
• waterproofing;
• construction tape;
• reinforcement or steel mesh;
• beacons;
• rule for leveling concrete;
• grinder with stone discs;

From materials you will need:

• cement M400;
• standard crushed stone;
• quarry sand;
• tap water;
• chemical additives that increase the hydrophobicity and strength of concrete (if necessary).

Instead of a shovel, a container for mixing concrete mortar, a concrete mixer is suitable. With its help, the process of preparing a high-quality mixture will go faster.

Technological process

The concrete floor in the basement is made in six steps:

1. Digging a pit with a width that takes into account the dimensions of the walls and formwork.
2. Create a sand cushion with rubble.
3. Installation of formwork.
4. Laying a waterproofing layer.
5. Reinforcement with reinforcement.
6. Pouring with concrete.

Floor preparation for grouting

Ground concreting is ideal for screed.

Ideal option for laying screed in the basement, concreting on the ground is used. Preparatory work are reduced to a minimum: get rid of debris, vegetation, compact the soil and you can start screed. When new floors are installed over old ones, the following should be done:

• stripping the old coating with the subsequent identification of flaws;
• elimination of cracks and chips by expanding them and processing with sand-cement or polymer composition;
• dismantling of non-repairable areas;
• correction of differences in the height of the base with a milling machine;
• cleaning the surface from dust, otherwise the adhesion of concrete to the old floor will deteriorate.

If it does not work out to create a perfectly flat base from the old coating, it is recommended to lay a concrete layer.

Cushion filling and tamping

When laying the floor directly on the ground, it is immediately tamped, then from crushed stone or small stone. The layer will give the base hardness, prevent the possibility of cracks. Next, a cushion of sand is laid with a layer of 0.5-1 m, which can lose up to 25% during further compaction with a roller or vibrator. This fact must be taken into account when filling. After compaction, the sand is poured over with water.

Waterproofing

After the construction of the pillow and its ramming, waterproofing is carried out. The moisture resistance of the future floor depends on the quality of this work. The height of this parameter will allow damage to property. For waterproofing, rolls of bitumen are used, polymer material or thick plastic wrap.

The selected material is overlapped throughout the floor and sealed with tape. No breaks or gaps should form. Surplus is cut off. The overlap of the waterproofing on the wall is 25 cm. This will protect the joints from moisture. The first layer of concrete can also be insulated from moisture. For this, coating insulating materials are used.

Laying metal mesh

When large area basement on the floor, it is recommended to lay a reinforcing layer in order to strengthen the structure. Initially, the surface needs to be divided into squares. Then you should mark with boards 2-2.5 cm thick.

The fittings are selected depending on the purpose of the room and the expected load. You can use thick metal rods or reinforcing mesh (knitted, welded). As a rule, a road mesh with a rod diameter of 0.5 cm is used.

Exposing beacons and screeding

Before it is important to set the beacons correctly. The work done depends on how flat the surface will turn out. The formation of beacons is carried out at the stage of laying the first portion using half the volume of the mixture. At a distance of 1 m from each other, hills are created, a rail with a risk is placed on top. Using the level set by leveling, the top of the beacons is adjusted to the bottom of the rail.

For floor screed, a solution grade of at least M400 is used. Fine marble or granite is mixed in as filler. For the first layer of masonry, a hardener or plasticizer is added. Depending on the area of \u200b\u200bwork, either a deep vibrator is used for leveling.

Drying

When the concrete has set, you can start pouring the walls.

After laying each layer of concrete, you should wait some time, during which the screed gains strength and dries. This process can take place without intervention for at least a day. To speed up the curing process concrete screed without loss of strength, it is recommended to use the operation. For this, a filter material is laid on flat concrete, which is covered with an airtight mat. A vacuum pump nozzle is attached to the center of the mat, which pulls excess moisturewithout damaging the quality of the screed. This method takes only 7 hours to dry.

Drying of concrete is complete if a trace of up to 4 mm remains on its surface.

When the concrete is strong enough, you can remove the beacons and fill the furrows with sand-cement. Walking on the surface of fresh concrete is best done with a sheet of plywood. After that, the floor is covered with plastic wrap. Complete curing of concrete - 28 days.

Sanding and grouting

Grout starts from the walls and doorways in the middle. For this, it is recommended to use topping or concrete hardener. The process is complete when the surface has completely absorbed the grouting material. The process is repeated three times. The final stage is the one when a trace of up to 1 mm remains on the concrete. For a screed with a small load, you will need 5 kg, for medium sizes - 8 kg, for colored floors - 8 kg of grout per 1 m2.

It is possible to make a basement in almost every private house, if the type of foundation allows. It can be used in completely different ways - for storing crops and conservation, as a repair shop or living room... But to extra space served as efficiently as possible, it is necessary to high-quality finishing, but it's better to start with the most problematic part - the floor. In this article, we will explain in detail how to make a basement floor and what materials to use for finishing it.

The functionality of a basement can vary depending on the purpose for which you built it. But the floor, in any case, must meet certain requirements. Since it is closest to the ground, the risk of being humid and cold is much higher than for rooms on the ground floor. That is why it is important to do everything possible to insulate the floor and make it as stable as possible.

If you want to make a living room from the basement, then the floor is better made of wood. A concrete screed is perfect for a workshop, and clay floors can be arranged for storing preserves, food or things. Let's consider each of these options in more detail.

Concrete floor

The concrete floor in the basement of the house is the most popular solution because it guarantees high strength, durability and reliability. it the best option for arranging a basement in areas with a shallow depth of groundwater. Other materials in such cases dampen and deteriorate, and concrete provides additional waterproofing.

To make concrete floors in the basement of a private house, you will need the following tools and materials:

• cement grade not lower than M400 (if you choose a less durable cement, then the floor will not withstand the load and will crack);
• river sand no clay impurities;
• crushed stone to create drainage through which excess moisture will leave;
• expanded clay for floor insulation;
• roll waterproofing;
• a container for mixing the solution (ideally, it is better to rent a concrete mixer);
• shovel;
• rule;
• building level.

Below we will briefly describe the process of creating a concrete screed that can be laid on topcoat... It should also be chosen based on functional purpose basement. For the workshop, it is better to choose ceramic tiles or inexpensive linoleum so that the floor can be cleaned quickly and easily. For living quarters, warmer and more aesthetic coatings are preferable - carpet, laminate or parquet.

How to fill the floor in the basement of the house:

Leaving a bare concrete floor is highly discouraged, because no matter how tidy it is, it will still get dusty. Alternatively, you can cover it with a self-leveling polymer mixture or simply paint it with enamel (the most cheap option). If you want to make living space out of the basement, you can arrange an insulated wooden floor on concrete logs. We will talk about the lag laying technology a little later.

The floor in the basement of a private house (video) made of concrete:

Clay floor

The technology for making clay floors appeared many thousands of years ago, but in recent times interest in her was renewed. Environmentally friendly, cheap and very comfortable clay floors are increasingly appearing in private houses and even apartments, and they are just perfect for arranging basements.

Why clay floors are good:

1. Cheapness is a decisive factor for most who started repairs or construction. But for all its economy, the clay floor is not inferior in quality to expensive coatings, or even surpasses them. The savings are not just about low cost supplies, but also that you do not need the help of specialists or large construction equipment.
2. Naturalness - the clay floor does not contain substances hazardous to health, on the contrary, it brings continuous benefits. When walking, the clay relieves the load from the feet, and natural ingredients have a beneficial effect on the skin.
3. Clay can be reused - if you ever want to change your basement floor wooden house, then from clay and straw you can build a small extension or make a floor in another room.
4. Heat - clay perfectly retains heat inside and does not allow cold from underground to penetrate into the room. In winter it heats up quickly, and in summer it keeps it pleasantly cool.
5. When properly installed, an adobe (clay and straw) floor will never be stained, scratched or dents. Cleaning will take a couple of minutes!
6. The clay floor does not need waterproofing, since the materials themselves in the mixture do an excellent job with this function. You just need to organize a drainage cushion and you can start laying the floor.
7. Even a person ignorant of construction can handle the arrangement of a clay floor.

Of course, the technology for making a mixture for the floor has undergone some changes and improved, but the essence remains the same. To make an adobe coating, you will need clay, river sand, straw, linseed oil, crushed stone, turpentine and beeswax.

Working process:

Such a floor arrangement in the basement of a private house will allow you to get a solid, even and environmentally friendly surface for many years. But over time, the clay floor, like any other, will need to be updated. To do this, simply repeat the impregnation procedure. If chips and small cracks appear during operation, rub them with hard wax and saturate them with oil.

Floor on logs

It is better to arrange floors in the basement of a house on logs if the groundwater runs far from the surface, and the ground is sufficiently dry.

Wooden logs should be treated with antiseptics to protect them from decay, insects and rodents. Their length should be less than the length of the room by 2-3 cm, otherwise the floors may deform during shrinkage. Choose powerful pine beams with a thickness of at least 150 mm, for rough flooring, you can use any untreated boards, and for finishing it is better to take a grooved board 40-50 mm wide.

How to make a basement floor:

You will find more information about building a floor on logs in the article

Everyone can make a floor in the basement of a house, fortunately, there are many techniques that are different in complexity, cost and practicality. Finally, here are some useful tips:

Before arranging the floor, think about where the wires and communications will be hidden. The floor on the logs, for example, allows them to be laid without problems and provides access at any time.

If you want to do wood flooring, choose wood types that are resistant to moisture. Hardwoods are considered the best in this regard.

When choosing carpet as a covering, keep in mind that if it is humid in the basement, then it will not work normally to dry the floor, and the carpet may become moldy. In this case, experts recommend staying on tiles or self-leveling polymer mixtures.

Construction Materials

Petr Kravets

Reading time: 4 minutes

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The underground area is usually not very large, so the owners wonder how to make the floor in the basement of the house so that it takes up minimal space.

This is especially critical when the floor is being made in the basement of the garage, where it is necessary to place equipment for the car, and conservation, and tools in a limited small space. The most simple and optimal solution in this case there will be a concrete floor in the basement.

Basement features

The basement in the house with the underground is planned before the start of the construction of the building. If the construction is done on dry soil, then the basement floor is made two or even four times lower, which is for soil with high humidity due to high groundwater. The construction method is chosen based on the parameters of the land on the site.

If the construction of the basement with the cellar is carried out simultaneously, then it is better to choose a strip arrangement of the foundation, which will give a number of advantages for the basement: strong walls that protect from cold and wind, dividing the basement space into zones for them various uses, similar to dividing the upper floors of a house into rooms.

If the floor in the basement is made on logs, then you need to take care of a greater deepening in the ground in advance. The difference reaches 30 centimeters compared to an earthen floor.

Protecting the room from moisture, the basement floor must also withstand the loads exerted by the pressing soil. Therefore, all floors in the basement of a private house with old structures are additionally reinforced with walls in the form of supports at a distance of 3-4

Basement floor types

The device of the basement floor can be made on logs, from concrete, on a monolithic slab and on the ground. The latter option is the most reliable, since it is mounted during construction and foundation laying. If the house is made on monolithic slab with insulation, the floor will be especially durable and warm due to its placement on the top of the slab. A warm basement will provide a warm floor above the basement.

Coating with concrete mortar is done when the soil at the site is wet and saturated with groundwater, which is dangerous for the basement. The arrangement of the basement floor is also additional protection from moisture, so experts recommend doing this at home.

Concrete mixtures are poured onto the ground or onto a multi-layer cake - sand and gravel mix to protect against moisture. Such a structure can reliably protect the floors in the basement against the ground in case of strong heaving - wet clay or loam.

The floors on the logs are made in those buildings where there is no threat of flooding or a high-quality drainage system is equipped. Wooden floors do in garages, but only if there is a deep basement.

Floor on the ground is especially important in sensitive issues of space saving and construction estimates. If the soil at the construction site is subsiding, then a reinforced floor screed in the basement is needed to keep the soil from shifting.

Arrangement of a concrete floor in the basement

Tools and materials

• When large quantities concrete requires a concrete mixer. You can also knead by hand, casting the floor in pieces. In a small area, this is quite acceptable, although laborious;
• Shovels - shovel and bayonet;
• Containers for mixing and transporting concrete mixture;
• Tools for leveling the mortar to be laid - trowel, trowel. The floors need to be sanded if linoleum continues to spread. If flooring is provided with lags, then alignment can be omitted;
• Grinder with discs for stone or concrete;
• Dry cement, grade M400, sand and crushed stone of medium grain size, water.

Stages of pouring a concrete floor in a basement

How to fill the floor in the basement with concrete with your own hands:

• The bottom of the pit is leveled with a hydraulic level, all the soil is rammed either manually or with a vibrating plate;
• A base is made of sand of 10-15 centimeters, which must also be thoroughly tamped, pre-moistened;
• Gravel or crushed stone is poured onto the sand, followed by compaction;
• Laying layers of waterproofing, for which roofing material or polyethylene is used. All canvases are laid out overlapping each other by 15 cm. It is also necessary to go 20-30 centimeters when laying on the walls. In the corners, all layers are leveled, giving shape right angle, fixed with a construction stapler;
• Install thermal insulation, avoiding the use of glass wool, stone or other types of wool. They are too permeable to moisture, which will cause the accumulation of dampness in the insulation and the gradual loss of its heat-insulating properties;
• Use foam with a density of C25 and a layer thickness of 5 centimeters. All sheets are laid out with addiction to each other, seams and joints are sealed with sealant or polyurethane foam;
• Carefully examine the joints between the foam and the basement walls. They do not apply there polyurethane foam, and leave a seam for possible deformation of the soil during teaching. Two centimeters will be enough.

Sequence of work

• If reinforced loads will fall on the basement floor, as in a gym or from placed equipment, it is necessary to make reinforcement of at least 10 centimeters. If the movement is small, then you can limit yourself to a concrete layer of 5 centimeters without reinforcement;
• For a reinforcing belt, a mesh of 5-6 mm reinforcement is made, tying the rods together with wire or welding, which is less desirable;
• A cement-sand mortar is prepared from 3 parts of sand, pre-sieved, and a part of cement. Everything is thoroughly mixed dry and filled with water. You can add small fractions of stones, but not more than 15% of total solution. The resulting mixture is poured in buckets or other containers onto the floor, a screed is made in the basement;
• The layers are poured gradually, leveling the mortar along the entire perimeter of the floor. It is necessary to install beacons so that the height is the same over the entire surface. It is also necessary to periodically pierce the filled solution with a pin during the concreting process in order to remove air and voids;
• As soon as the concrete hardens, it is methodically grinded, but first, expansion joints are made with a grinder or a disc. The distance between the joints must be at least 6 meters to prevent cracks on the concrete surface.

Basement flooring technology

The advantage of the floor on the ground is its waterproofing characteristics and thermal conductivity. If all the work is done correctly, then such a floor will serve for a long time without the need renovation works... The surface is leveled like concrete pouring... Of necessary tools you will need shovels, buckets, gravel or crushed stone of medium fraction, sand, clay and a vibrating plate or a garden roller.

Stages of flooring work on the ground:

• The bottom of the pit is tamped and compacted, leveling with a building level;
• Crushed stone and clay are mixed and spread with a 15 cm layer, followed by tamping;
• You can supplement the layer with expanded clay or slag, which will contribute to better thermal insulation;
• To increase the strength of the floor, it is necessary to make a cement-sand mortar, repeating the pouring after the first layer has dried;
• In order for the layers in the floor structure to be dense, they are made as thin as possible. This is how the fill is done to the desired height;
• The final top layer is coated with liquid clay solution, and all voids and cracks are sealed with it;
• The topcoat can be linoleum or tiles.

Basement floor on logs

If logs are made for the floor in the basement, then you must choose quality wood and provide good waterproofing... For such purposes, a 15 by 15 or 10 by 10 bar is suitable - logs will be made from it. And from edged boards the base of the floor will be made 40-50 millimeters thick.

Sequence of work

• Everything wooden parts treated with antiseptics, paying attention to the side surfaces and ends;
• The boards are cut into pieces of the required length, taking into account that their total length should be no more than the length of the room minus a couple of centimeters;
• In the process of laying the boards, a gap of 1.5-2 centimeters is made to the walls of the basement. It is necessary that the patterns on the boards are facing in different directions, then the floor will be more even and durable;
• In places where the logs will be located, roofing material is laid in several layers. The distance between the location of the lags should not exceed three meters, although it is usually calculated based on the size of the board;
• All boards are fixed with nails at least 7 centimeters long, they are driven in at a slight incline. If the boards have grooves for mounting, then their installation is simplified and resembles a designer.

Conclusion

The arrangement of the floors in the basement is about the same as in the cellars. The difference will be the increased humidity of the cellar due to greater depth... In such cases, not only the floor is waterproofed, but also the walls.