Do-it-yourself wall plastering is recommended only for those home craftsmen who have experience in finishing work. In the absence of such experience, you should choose a small section of the wall or take a sheet of drywall and practice on it. If the result is far from desired, it is better not to try to save money, but immediately contact a construction company. Others are advised to follow the instructions provided.
Wall plastering can be carried out in two ways. In the first case, the solution is simply applied to the walls, and then leveled with a rule. In the second, before plastering the walls, paint beacons are installed or threads are pulled to indicate the level. This operation is required only in the case of very uneven walls. These two methods of wall plastering are considered the main ones, but each master can make small adjustments to the technology.
According to modern rules SNiP III-21-73, there are 3 types of coatings:
- Low quality. This type of plastering is suitable for wall decoration in non-residential premises. Permissible vertical and horizontal deviations are 3 mm per 1 meter. Also, for every 4 square meters, 3 smooth irregularities are allowed, the depth of which does not exceed 5 mm. Surfaces can be plastered with cheap starting mortars.
- Average quality. In this case, the requirements for surfaces are more stringent: vertical or horizontal deviations should not exceed 2 mm per 1 m. As for smooth irregularities, their number is limited to 2, and the depth is 3 mm. So you can plaster the facades.
- High Quality. The requirements for this type of coating are the most stringent. Horizontal and vertical deviations should not exceed 1 mm per 1 m, and there can be no more than 2 smooth irregularities, while their depth cannot be more than 2 mm.
VIDEO:
Process Features
Depending on the material from which the walls were made for plastering, as well as on their location (outside or inside the building), different plaster mixtures and application techniques are used. Before you plaster the walls with gypsum plaster or other composition, you need to know some of the nuances of finishing various bases.
brick walls
Such structures are usually finished with cement-based plasters. In some cases, a little lime is added to them to increase the plasticity and moisture resistance of the material. The thickness of the plaster layer on brick walls should not exceed 3 cm. It is also recommended to use a reinforcing net to strengthen the layer.
When finishing a brick wall, it is necessary to use a reinforcing mesh to strengthen the plaster layer If we are talking about facing bricks, then working with it is quite difficult. Its surface is very smooth, so the solution can fall off even if a reinforcing mesh is used. Such material must first be impregnated with special primers, only after that proceed with the finishing.
concrete walls
Smooth surfaces of this type are pre-treated with primers containing quartz sand or flour. This material increases adhesion and provides a tighter contact of the plaster with the wall. To finish such surfaces, cement-based plasters are used, to which a little gypsum or lime-gypsum mixtures are added. For rough concrete walls, ordinary cement plasters without additional components are sufficient. The main thing is to treat them with "Betonkontakt" before plastering the surface yourself.
Concrete walls are recommended to be treated with a primer "betonkontakt" Aerated concrete walls
If the building was erected or insulated using gas or foam blocks, then they will be quick and easy. At the preliminary stage, it will only be necessary to treat the walls with deep penetration impregnation. Such surfaces can be plastered with concrete or lime mortars.
On a note! At the moment, hardware stores offer a wide range of plasters suitable for certain surfaces and operating conditions. Manufacturers indicate the proportions in which the mixtures need to be diluted, and give various recommendations for use, so there will be no problems with the choice.
Necessary tools and materials
To plaster a wall, stock up on the following consumables and tools:
- mortar, primer (acrylic or "Betonkontakt"), putty;
- painting beacons, self-tapping screws, dowels;
- screwdriver, hammer, metal shears or grinder;
- perforator with a set of drills and a mixer nozzle, a mixing container;
- building level, plumb line, tape measure;
- thread, marker or pencil;
- spatulas (wide and narrow), brush or roller, usually stroked.
In addition, you need to take care of work clothes, protective gloves and a hat. The above list is quite large, but the main ones here are a puncher and a set of drills, everything else is not very expensive.
Plaster work
There are several stages of wall plastering. Only with full observance of each of them can you get a high-quality coating that will last for many years.
Preparatory stage
Plastering walls with your own hands requires careful preparation.
- First of all, you should get rid of the old coating. It is necessary to remove paint, wallpaper or decorative plaster. The starting layer of plaster can only be left if it is strong, otherwise it will also be knocked down.
- After that, you need to tap the entire surface of the wall with a hammer to identify weaknesses that are sealed with putty or cement-sand mortar.
- Metal elements that can be obtained are removed from the wall (these can be nails, self-tapping screws, and so on), and the reinforcement is cut with a grinder and treated with an anti-corrosion compound.
- Before plastering, furniture and other surfaces are also covered with a film.
Preparatory work before plastering Marking
First, you should check the walls with a building level and find out the deviation, for this you need to apply it to different parts of the surface horizontally and vertically. After that, you need to find all the bumps and depressions, applying the rule to the wall. Mark these defects with a marker or pencil. If the deviations are more than 3 cm, it is necessary to remove the bumps with a grinder, and fill the cavities with putty.
Now you can proceed directly to the marking under the paint beacons. You should start from the corners of the room, stepping back 30 cm from them and drawing straight vertical lines from ceiling to floor. Then step back 160 cm from the drawn line and draw the next one, and so on until the end of the wall. After that, you need to decide on the length of the beacons. In this case, it should be taken into account that you should retreat 15 cm from the floor and ceiling and mark these points. Holes are drilled at the points and dowels with self-tapping screws are installed.
Marking rules for plaster beacons Then pull the cord from corner to corner horizontally - near the ceiling and floor. The result should be two parallel lines. The cord will cross the rest of the vertical lines, marks should be made at the intersections, holes should be drilled and dowels should be installed without self-tapping screws. The result should be two rows of holes running exactly in the same line.
Primer
This stage is mandatory, since the duration of the operation of the future surface depends on it. The primer increases the adhesion of the wall, so the plaster will hold better and longer on it, in addition, primers can serve as antiseptics, improve surface ventilation and serve to remove dust. Deeply penetrating compounds are used when finishing brick walls or surfaces made of cellular concrete; for smooth ones, you can get by with Betonkontakt.
The selected primer is poured into a paint container, and a roller or brush is dipped into it, then the tool is pressed against a special surface on the container and the entire area is treated. After applying the first layer, you need to wait about 2-3 hours, then repeat the procedure, and leave the walls to dry for 10-12 hours.
The priming process improves the adhesion of the plaster to the wall, which means that the coating will last much longer.
Beacons are installed using the following technology:
- First, the upper self-tapping screws are screwed into the holes, after which a rule is attached to one of them and it is checked how deeply the lower self-tapping screw needs to be screwed in so that a straight vertical line forms between their caps. This can also be checked by making a plumb line from the top screw. Thus, all fasteners are checked and adjusted.
- Then you need to stretch two diagonal lines between the caps of the fasteners, then put a beacon under them and draw it to check if the beacons will subsequently protrude. If the product catches the thread, you need to double-check the level of the screws. Next, pull the cord between the upper and lower fasteners and also check them with a beacon.
- Now you need to calculate the distance between the upper and lower dowels and cut off the beacon profile so that it recedes 5 cm on each side.
- After that, prepare a little plaster according to the recipe given by the manufacturer on the package.
- Then they collect the solution and apply it to the wall along a vertical line, after which they take the cut off beacon and press it into the solution so that it is at the same level as the caps of the screws. This operation is best done with a partner in order to simultaneously press the beacon from above and below.
- At the end, you need to check the correct level and remove the screws from the wall.
- Thus, profiles should be installed along all marking lines and the mixture should be allowed to harden.
VIDEO FOR A BEGINNER: preparing walls for plastering and installing sinks
Let's talk about how to properly apply the plaster mortar.
Wall plaster
Consider applying the material to the wall using the example of a gypsum composition.
Areas in the corners, near the floor under the ceiling remain unprocessed. The technology of gypsum plaster walls implies their finishing after the main area has dried.
Making corners and squares near the floor and ceiling
The application of gypsum plaster to these areas is carried out very quickly. It is recommended to start from the ceiling. Before applying the plaster to the remaining surfaces, again prepare a solution of the same consistency as for the main area of \u200b\u200bthe walls. A solution is collected on narrow spatulas and gently stretched. If you get a small overlap - it's okay, it can then be sanded with sandpaper. In the same way trim the area near the floor.
The plastered wall element is also leveled as a rule, cutting off excess material. The corners are made using the same technology, but the perpendicularity of the walls is constantly checked with a square. Instead of lighthouses, the finished surface of the wall now serves as a guide.
Checking the perpendicularity of the walls on the square At the end, you need to check the surface for cracks, if any appear, they should be repaired with a liquid solution and leveled with a rule. You also need to check the coverage with a level, if there are differences of more than 1 mm, they are removed with the sharp edge of the trowel.
After that, beacons are removed from the wall, and the resulting strobes are sealed with mortar, the plastered area is leveled. Then the seized surface is treated with sandpaper. Plastering with gypsum plaster does not require finishing.
This completes the gypsum plaster. It remains only to wait for the coating to harden, after which it can be operated. The required time is specified by the manufacturer.
Wall plastering is the fundamental process of any renovation. If you have flat walls, then even cheap furniture will fit harmoniously and fit without gaps to walls and corners. If you have already decided on the choice of plaster and calculated the required amount of material, then let's talk about the preparation and the plastering technology itself.
What tool to plaster the walls
I will note the main tools for manual application, and we'll talk about them. And so what we need:
| Tool | Description |
|---|---|
| Rule, cutter | Aluminum long tool for leveling plaster on the surface (look at the photos below). It comes in different lengths up to 3m. Usually for indoor repairs we need 3 cutters of different sizes (1m 1.5m 2.5m), if there are hard-to-reach places, then you can cut to any desired length. |
| Level | It will be needed to detect deviations from the horizontal or vertical level of the surface, to set beacons, to check the finished wall, to set corners, etc. You can use both a bubble level and a laser level (it will speed up the process). |
| Spatula and trowel | For applying material to the surface. We need a trowel with an average length of 30-35 cm. Spatula 10 cm |
| Trowel, trowel | It will be needed for throwing material. It has different shapes and types. For throwing mortar, a drop-shaped “drop” trowel is usually used, but often craftsmen also use square, mason's trowels. A matter of taste. |
| Roller and bucket and brush | For priming and wetting surfaces. |
| Polyurethane grater | For finishing grinding cement and lime mortar |
| Trough, container for kneading and water | For kneading, you will need a trough with a volume of 40 liters, and a bucket of 10-15 liters for water, and preferably 2 buckets, because you need to wash the mixer or the whisk for mixing in one. |
| Mixer, whisk | Without a construction mixer or something similar, I do not recommend starting such a process as wall plastering at all. |
| Covering film, masking tape | In order to cover window sills, doors, windows, radiators, or simply paste over adjacent walls. |
| Plaster bucket | If there is no skill, then it is better not to take it into your hands. How to plaster walls with this tool will talk in another article. |
Preparing walls for plaster
Do-it-yourself plastering of walls implies preparation. Any finish begins with preparation, the better the surface is prepared, the less likely it is that you will crack or pieces of mortar will fall off. Below we will consider different options for preparing walls and features of plaster. Let's start with the primer and what it is.
Padding
The preparation may include different stages, it all depends on the condition of the surface. One of the most important stages of preparation is this (I devoted a separate article to this). It comes in several types, but we need a maximum of two:
Deep impregnation primer - Liquid composition, sold in canisters, yellow or white. Often concentrated, therefore dilution is required in the proportion indicated on the canister. Applied with a brush or roller, it penetrates the surface and binds small particles both outside and in the depth of penetration.
Sand primer, putzgrunt, betonkontakt - A primer designed for better adhesion of smooth, concrete surfaces. It contains quartz sand. Mix well before use. It is advisable to pre-prime the surface with a deep-penetrating primer. Apply with a large brush in different directions. After application, it is required to wait for complete drying, preferably a day.
General training
We remove the old wallpaper, everything that rings does not hold well, falls off. Does it need to be primed? Any surface should be primed before plastering or puttying. If you have a well prepared surface - this is a third of success.
Dismantling of old plaster
If you want to level the old walls, then initially you need to knock it out, you may need to beat off pieces of the old mortar that are not holding well or even knock it all down. We'll talk about how to shoot down a little lower. Then we dedust the surface as much as possible and prime with deep penetration soil. We are waiting for the complete drying of the primer.
How to remove old plaster? what to repulse? For this we need:
- Perforator, with a nozzle “shovel”
- Hammer
- Respirator, gloves, earmuffs
- Garbage bags
Wall plastering usually takes place in several stages, one of them is the preparation and dismantling of the old coating. We begin to beat off a layer of solution from the places where it best leaves, falls off. If a conventional hammer drill does not do its job, then you will need a large powerful hammer drill (you can rent it for a day) and things will go much faster. When everything is recaptured, we dedust the surface, either vacuum it, or sweep everything from the surface. We collect the broken garbage in bags and take it out. After we managed to remove the old plaster and collect all the debris, we prime the surface with a deep-penetrating primer, preferably 2 times.
Surface preparation
I repeat that different surfaces are prepared a little differently, that's all the difference. As much as I would not like to write the same thing, but demand creates supply.
Aerated concrete, gas block, foam block
We clean with a spatula (35 cm) from excess glue, poorly adhering particles. Without sparing the primer, we impregnate the wall with a deep penetration primer. How to plaster the foam block inside and out? Inside, you can plaster both gypsum and cement. But outside, only with cement plaster, having previously reinforced the surface with a facade fiberglass mesh. Do-it-yourself plastering of walls from gas silicate blocks is carried out exactly the same as on other surfaces.
Brick
The protruding mortar, protruding bricks are beaten off with a hammer and everything is also primed. The whole difference in plastering bricks and other surfaces is preparation, although the preparation all boils down to the fact that we remove, beat off the excess and prime it well. The plastering technology is the same as on other walls, read below in the chapter about technology. If the brick is chipped off, or there is a large gap between the ceiling and walls, then it is better to close up such gaps in the brick with a cement-sand mortar 1: 4 (sand-cement). Such a masonry mortar has much better bearing characteristics than a plaster mixture.
Arbolite slabs
Preparation and plastering of arbolite slabs is carried out in the same way as on brick surfaces.
Panel house, concrete walls
All excess is removed from the concrete surface. We perform a thorough cleaning, if the walls are plastered with gypsum plaster, then the concrete is primed with sandy soil or concrete contact. If cement, then simply primed. We are waiting for the complete drying of the primer. And only then the solution is applied.
Wooden surfaces, SIP panels, OSB(OSB), Plywood
Similar surfaces DO NOT PLASTER! They are initially even and must be mounted in a level and in a plane, so there is no technology for plastering OSB (OSB) and plywood. Large differences can be smoothed out with special compounds, after sanding the surface and gluing all the seams with a serpentine tape. Then the entire surface is pasted over with a reinforcing fiberglass mesh, but only then can large differences be leveled with specially designed mixtures.
Whitewash
Is it possible to plaster over whitewash? no, you can’t, you need to thoroughly wash off the whitewash, if possible, notch it with a hatchet or a perforator, after which we prime it 2 times, wait until the layers of soil dry.
How to prepare a solution
And so, we mix. First, clean water is poured onto the bottom of the trough or bucket, water for each type has its own amount. Gypsum plaster is kneaded exactly as it is written on the package, usually this proportion is 2: 3 (water-plaster). The technical characteristics of the VOLMA mixture indicate that it will take 18-19 liters of clean tap water per 30 kg of dry composition. For the convenience of work, we make a batch of medium density, so that it is well taken on a spatula, but does not drain. Wait 2-3 minutes and mix again. The solution is now ready for use.
In no case do not add water to the solution after kneading. It is allowed to add a little dry mixture if the solution came out very liquid, but do not add water if it came out thick. It is allowed to mix once if the solution began to thicken, but you do not have time to work out.
Approximately 1:5 is needed for cement plaster, in the technical specification of the LUX dry mix it is indicated that 5-5.5 liters of water will be required per 25 kg bag. and during the kneading process, add either a little water or a little loose mixture, so that it is convenient to work with the solution (not very liquid and not thick). It all depends on the brand and manufacturer, a different amount of plasticizers and cement in the solution requires a different amount of water. After kneading, wait 5 minutes, mix again. Ready to use, it remains to figure out how to plaster the walls, but more on that later.
You need to add a little less water to lime plaster and gradually, it has strange properties during kneading, it can become very liquid if you stir for a long time, so the main thing is to follow the proportions for preparing the mortar (lime-cement) 1: 5, and add water in fact and little by little. Sometimes the lime is frozen or already raw, so we adjust the amount of water ourselves. I also recommend adding a little liquid soap for each batch, or dishwashing detergent (literally a couple of drops), the soap will play the role of a plasticizer and prevent the solution from squeezing out water. The solution will dry evenly, and the smell will be pleasant.
Lighthouse plastering
I devoted a separate article to this chapter - "Plastering walls on lighthouses". It describes in detail the method of setting beacons.
Plastering technology, stages of wall plastering
If we managed to install beacons and it turned out well, then everything else is a matter of skill. And so, what we have, and we have a well-prepared wall with exposed beacon profiles. You could call this chapter “beacon alignment”. We knead the solution, I wrote about this above. Here is a brief guide to DIY plastering.
Application and plastering technology:
Finally talk about how to plaster the walls with your own hands. Let's start in order.
- We smear the wall with a thin layer of mortar
- We throw a trowel (trowel) plaster mixture on the wall evenly without gaps. Let's start from the bottom up. We throw it so that the solution goes beyond the plane of the lighthouses
- We tighten the solution from the bottom up with the rule (not in one movement, but smoothly at a small frequency moving left and right) do not press on the rule, just touch the lighthouse profiles and move it up along the vector.
- We send the removed plaster higher to the wall or back to the trough.
- After the wall was thrown and pulled off, all the fallen mixture and debris were removed, we wait for everything to dry.
- We tear out the beacons, close up the resulting strobes, wait for them to dry
- Wet the wall with water (using a roller)
- We apply a thin layer of plaster with a trowel 35 cm (the solution is a little thinner than it was)
- We tighten the rule in different directions, in priority along the diagonal and vertically, remove as much of the applied composition as possible, but do not press hard on the rule so as not to deform it.
- If the finish is gypsum, then we simply remove the excess well (we drag it with the rule in all directions) and wait for it to dry, after that we go through with a spatula and remove excess drops and sagging
- If we work with cement, then while this layer is still a little damp, we moisten it with water and rub it with a polyurethane grater,
- If lime plaster, then at first it is not smeared, but immediately thrown over. removed by the rule and after removing the beacons, it is desirable to drag the cement mixture (thin layer). And grind everything using cement technology.
Do-it-yourself finishing wall plastering, wall grinding
Cement plaster is rubbed with a special grater for grinding. Graters are foam, polyurethane and felt. The first two leave the same rough circular motion effect. Felt more pleasant effect of sand (if you want to prepare for painting) Finishing plaster implies grinding. Such grinding of the wall is carried out until the surface becomes an acceptable, neat appearance.
Stucco reinforcement
Do you need mesh for reinforcement? the surface must be reinforced with large layers, starting from 2 cm. Reinforced with a special mesh:
- polymer mesh
- galvanized mesh
- metal grid
- nylon mesh
- fiberglass mesh
I will note the fiberglass mesh, it is more convenient for it to reinforce everything with small layers of 2-3 cm. Or you can use cement glue for reinforcing mesh, which is also not a bad option. After reinforcement, you can apply a solution of another 2 cm.
If the layers are huge, then a galvanized mesh (mounting mesh) is stuffed, it is fastened with dowels with plastic washers so that they do not rust. After stuffing the reinforcing material, a layer of liquid plaster should be applied over the grid so that the solution penetrates and envelops the reinforcing material, after drying, you can continue to apply the main layer. The maximum thickness of the solution layer with the reinforcement of the galvanized mesh is approximately 5-6 cm. The thickness of the mesh should not exceed the norms indicated on the package.
Corner plastering
At the stage of setting the beacons, the outer corners are set, I recommend that you immediately put perforated painting ones (the main thing is to buy hard ones). I will describe the detailed technology for setting corners in another article.
The outer corners should be used as an additional beacon, and it should be aligned with the rest of the beacon profiles. The inner corner is formed by the rule during the alignment of the adjacent walls. The main thing is that the edge of the rule is not blunt, but cut through the corner until it is sharp. Further, the angle is formed at the grinding stage (if it is a cement composition). To make even corners, you need a polyurethane grater and it should not be dull, but with a good right angle, you can even make the corner sharper (it can be sharpened with sandpaper). If you have an even angle, then the plaster of the walls looks evener, even if the plane is a helicopter.
How to fix a crack with plaster
Easier than shelling pears, let's start with the preparation of the crack. We embroider a crack with a spatula or trowel, if a deep one can be embroidered with a hatchet. We dust the crack, prime it. After complete drying, cover well with a solution. when the solution dries, it will shrink, so you can re-spread with a thin layer and rub with a polyurethane grater.
Gypsum plaster without putty for wallpaper
There is a way to prepare gypsum plaster for wallpaper bypassing 3 layers of putty, but this takes practice. Now I'll tell you everything:
- pour water, knead the solution, let stand for 2-3 minutes, mix well.
- lighthouses exposed
- plastering
- leave some solution in the bucket
- waiting 30 minutes
- we remove the beacons, close up the remaining solution of the strobe
- waiting 15 minutes
- drag the entire wall with a trapezoidal rule
- After another 15-20 minutes, wet the surface with water and grind with a sponge grater (in circular motions)
- wait until the surface becomes matte
- smooth everything with a hard spatula 35cm
The entire surface is ready for wallpaper, a little less effort was spent than on putty and time was saved. But personally, I support the putty option, it turns out to be of better quality, in my opinion.
Plaster without beacons
If you do not care about the evenness of the walls, their level and the error of unevenness, then you can plaster the wall without beacons. This method will take you twice as long as with beacons. such technology does not bring anything good later, especially high-quality, aligned walls. If there is no proper skill, then it’s better not to take it, but for those who don’t see other options, I’ll tell you about this method. How to properly plaster walls without beacons is not realistic to teach in words. You need to understand very well the curvature of the plane and what you are doing. In other words, everything is done by eye:
- Apply with a trowel (if a small layer)
- If large, then throw a trowel (trowel)
- We tighten the rule from bottom to top horizontally, then vertically
- After drying, you can comb with a metal rule everything that turned out crooked.
- If there are a lot of holes, then apply the solution and pull it off again in different directions.
- Then grind with a plastic grater or polyurethane.
How to plaster facade walls
The plastering of the facade walls is not much different from the technology inside the building. The difference is in the size of the walls, and the uselessness of lighthouses. The corners of the corners of the building and window corners play the role of lighthouses on the facade of the cottage. Here we will pull the plaster along these corners. I will immediately answer the question, “what kind of plaster is better for the facade?” We use exclusively cement, it can be special for facades, or it can be universal. It is impossible to plaster the facade with gypsum materials! I allow lime plaster to work only on the basement of the building, where there are large drops and high humidity and serious reinforcement is required (although there are different cases, and many where this is not required).
The facade surface must be prepared. if your house is insulated, then it should already be marked with a reinforcing mesh. All facade corners must be exposed and everything primed and dried. Now we knead the cement composition of the usual consistency (so that it is well smeared), we work preferably in cloudy weather so that the solution does not dry out.
We apply the solution on the facade with a thick layer with a trowel 40-50 cm long. We tighten everything that was applied in the corners with the rule, the longer the better. If there are no corners nearby, we pull together large pits and smooth them with the bulk of the solution. wait for it to dry a little and rub it with a foam grater (40-50 cm long).
If you are wondering “is it possible to plaster in the cold in winter?”, Then the answer is definitely no! Even if there is a special plaster for working in frost, I personally do not recommend working outside in the winter, at 0 degrees it is also impossible to plaster. after thawing, everything can fall off and lose its properties. You can plaster after +5 degrees, in any case, it says so on the bags. But at night the temperature can drop below, so play it safe and carry out work in good weather. Do not plaster in direct sunlight.
How to plaster the walls in the bathroom
The plastering of the walls in the bathroom should be done exclusively with cement mortar, no need to bother with lime, etc. “Is it possible to use gypsum plaster in the bathroom?” - Gypsum can not be used in rooms with high humidity. Therefore, we take Any cement plaster and perform all the same operations that were described in the chapter on how to “plaster walls on lighthouses?”. There are certain nuances in the bathroom if you plaster under good tiles and make good repairs.
Firstly, with high-quality repairs under the tile, it is necessary to plaster and do it along the lighthouses. It is necessary to observe the geometry of the room, especially where there will be a bath or shower. for this you need a large square (corner) and beacons need to be set so that each corner is 90 degrees. Often there are a lot of disputes and questions about this, because it is in the setting of 90 degree angles that large layers appear. There is only one way out - to plaster!
Do not save on the geometry of the room, the tile is square, it will show all the errors of the bathroom. You don't want to spend a lot of money on tiles and a bathroom, but saving on plaster will result in ugly wedge-shaped tile cuts and huge gaps between the wall and the bathroom. I hope I answered the question of how to plaster the wall in the bathroom under tiles, etc.
Plaster for different types of finishes: tiles, wallpaper, putty, painting
Any leveling of walls with plaster begins with surface preparation. Here I will tell you the main nuances of preparing for different finishes.
Plaster for tiles
I talked about the bathroom, but the same situation awaits us in the kitchen, when leveling the working area under the tiles. I emphasize once again, do not save on the amount of mortar, subject to 90-degree angles, especially in bathrooms and kitchens. In the kitchen, it is also desirable to plaster with cement mortar according to the norms. Practice shows that cement-based adhesive adheres better to cement plaster than to gypsum plaster; in general, gypsum and cement mixtures do not contact well and delaminate (I repeat). Practice shows that the working area in the kitchen under the tiles can be plastered, for example, with a rotband knauf, or VOLMA, nothing has fallen off or cracked over the years. But still, high humidity can lead to the spread of mold behind the washbasin. the choice is yours. Before laying the tiles, the surface is well primed.
Plaster under the wallpaper
A common question that arises among people who have started repairs is “how to plaster under the wallpaper?” The answer is simple, just like any other wall for any other type of finish. Plastering is a rough leveling of the surface, and preparation for finishing is already a function of puttying. Putty 3 times, grind and voila, the wall is ready for wallpaper. Before gluing the wallpaper, we prime the surface well. If plastering of walls for painting after wallpaper is required, or rather if the wallpaper is to be painted, then special attention should be paid to adjoining the ceiling. The smoother the abutment, the neater the painting will look.
Plaster for painting
And so, how to prepare and plaster for painting. Plastering walls for painting is not a very good solution, of course, if you do not mean the following. Although, in repairs with brick restoration, this goes well. It is enough to grind the cement with either a polyurethane grater or a foam plastic grater (for a rough effect). Or you can rub it with a felt grater for a finer grinding texture. The most acceptable option for grinding for painting is a balcony and a loggia, where it is most welcome. Gypsum can be prepared both for wallpaper and painted. In my opinion, plastered walls should be puttied for subsequent painting.
If you need high-quality painting, then here are all the stages of preparing the wall for painting - the order of work:
- plastering
- 2 coats of putty
- grind
- priming
- glue the web, or fiberglass
- 3 times finishing putty
- grind with fine sandpaper
- ready))
Mechanized plaster - pros and cons
A few words about mechanized plastering. Mechanized wall plastering implies the use of all kinds of equipment. This article is about do-it-yourself plastering, so I won’t write much about it. There are many types of equipment: a plaster station, a powerful compressor that uses a special gun, or special plaster installations on rails.
Of course, there are a lot of advantages in using technology, this is speed, a huge output. But the disadvantages are that if you plaster apartments, then this is not such a huge amount of work in which a plastering station can be used. It takes longer to wash than to plaster an apartment. A compressor with a special gun (hopper) is a more suitable option for apartments and small cottages. But you still have to knead the solution manually and, accordingly, tighten the rule. One of the pluses is the speed of application, but you still have to sweat. There is also such a device as a “manual plastering machine”, but this is a completely different story, which is used in decorative coatings. In general, the thing is quite funny, I would not mess with this.
So we figured out how to properly plaster walls in theory, everything else will come with practice. All questions are asked in the comments.
How and with what to plaster the walls?
When carrying out measures for the overhaul of a residential or industrial premises, it inevitably becomes necessary to eliminate irregularities and ensure flatness. Knowing how to plaster walls, you can do the work yourself, while saving financial resources. It is important to choose the right type of mixture, understand the technological subtleties, and learn how to work with the tool. The recommendations given in the material of the article will help to perform the work correctly, ensure the quality of the surface and avoid unforeseen errors.
What kind of plaster is better to plaster the walls
The implementation of finishing activities requires professional training and requires a qualified selection of materials. It is advisable to entrust the selection of the plaster composition and finishing to specialists. When carrying out activities on your own, it is important to study, before mixing the components and plastering the walls, the better to perform finishing work.
Depending on the specifics of the work, various types of working mixtures are used for plastering. Consider the types of compositions used:
- sand-cement. It is used when it is necessary to apply plaster in a thick layer on the outer or inner side of buildings. The mixture is made from available ingredients that at an affordable price provide increased reliability of the finish coating. The preparation process is quite simple. It involves mixing Portland cement with river sand, with the gradual introduction of water to the desired consistency. Depending on the brand of cement, its ratio with sand ranges from 1:2 to 1:5. A feature of the cement-sand composition is a long hardening period, due to which the mixture can be prepared in an increased amount. This makes it easier to finish on larger areas. The finished mixture can be purchased in specialized stores, then mixed independently according to the recipe indicated on the package;
- gypsum-lime, as well as gypsum-clay with the addition of lime. They are used to ensure the flatness of wooden walls, as well as to carry out finishing activities from the inside of the premises. The preparation technology involves mixing gypsum and lime in a ratio of 1: 3 with the addition of clay to improve bonding. The gypsum composition is prepared in a separate container with water, into which gypsum is quickly poured and thoroughly mixed. It remains to add dissolved lime - the plaster composition is ready. A feature of the gypsum composition is rapid hardening, reduced thermal conductivity, increased adhesion. Disadvantages include susceptibility to increased moisture concentration and the need to prepare small portions due to accelerated curing. Gypsum plaster hardens for 7 days with a layer thickness of up to 5 cm;
The better to plaster the walls depends on the wallet of the owner of the house, as well as on the characteristics of the room in which repairs are required.
- calcareous. Lime-cement is prepared from cement, lime paste and sand in a ratio of 1:2:7. Sand is mixed with dry cement with the introduction of lime "milk" and the addition of water. Clay-lime is prepared by combining lime dough with clay with the gradual introduction of sand. Clay dough in a liquid consistency, lime mortar and sand are mixed in a ratio of 1:3:5. Sand-and-lime plaster involves the addition of 1 to 5 parts of sand to one part of lime. The consistency of the sand-lime mixture should be pasty. The mixture should slightly stick to the working tool. Using plaster compositions based on lime, it is possible to significantly reduce the concentration of moisture in the room, which contributes to the formation of dampness, as well as to insulate the walls.
The final decision on the better to plaster the walls when performing finishing measures, the developers make individually, depending on the following factors:
- building material;
- humidity level;
- availability of ingredients;
- financial opportunities;
- deadlines for the implementation of activities;
- assigned tasks.
Each of the presented finishing compositions has its own advantages and disadvantages, which should be paid attention to when solving the problem of choice.
Cement-sand mortar. Can be used for leveling interior and exterior surfaces
How to plaster walls - tools and application rules
Every homeowner wants to have high-quality plastered walls after completing the finishing measures in the room. This is achieved by using a professional tool, following the technology.
Initially, it is necessary to prepare a tool for performing work:
- a medium-hard steel wire brush used to ensure a clean surface;
- gears resembling a chisel with a toothed working part that facilitates the application of grooves to improve adhesion;
- a falcon, which is a square shield with a handle, which is used as a platform for the plaster composition;
- a spatula designed for mixing the plaster composition and applying it to the surface, followed by rubbing;
- a trowel, which is a platform up to 1 m long with a handle, which facilitates leveling the plaster composition;
- a grater used in finishing operations, facilitating grinding and finishing;
- a rule in the form of a lath made of wood or metal up to 2 m long, designed to ensure the flatness of the applied layer;
- plumb or building level, facilitating the control of work in the horizontal and vertical plane.
Everyone can learn to plaster walls, although it will be more difficult for a beginner than a professional plasterer.
After preparing the tool necessary to perform the work, you should study the technological sequence of operations. The standard finishing technology includes the following steps:
- Preparatory work to ensure the cleanliness of the treated surface and improve adhesion.
- Installation of guides (beacons), which are a guideline when ensuring flatness.
- Application of the plaster composition and pre-finishing, forming a clean surface.
- Removing the guide elements with filling the cavities with cement and preliminary grouting the surface.
- Finishing, which is carried out on a hardening array and is cyclically performed with radius movements.
Each construction object has its own characteristics, according to which the developer determines the feasibility of performing certain stages. Let's dwell on the main technological points.
Getting ready to plaster the walls: how to ensure adhesion
Take measures to prepare the surface for plastering according to the following algorithm:
- Inspect and clean the walls with the obligatory removal of plaster residues, sagging, grease stains, fasteners and dirt.
If you find impressive cracks or any other mechanical damage on the wall, then they must be expanded and then cleaned of existing sand
- Seal cracks in the brick surface and crevices that degrade sound insulation and increase heat loss.
- Treat the work area with a deep penetrating primer that makes it difficult to absorb moisture, providing improved adhesion.
- Perform a three-millimeter notch on a smooth surface with a shock method, using a gear, followed by cleaning the wall and moistening it.
- Stuff a diagonal crate or chain-link mesh on a wooden base, and, if necessary, reinforce with a plastic mesh.
- Prepare the required amount of working composition for plastering by selecting the appropriate recipe.
After completing the surface preparation, you can start applying the mixture.
Learning to plaster: how to apply the mortar correctly
Carry out the operations for applying the plaster composition, observing the following sequence:
- Check the readiness of the tool and the consistency of the solution.
- Lightly dampen the base until moisture is absorbed.
- Dial a portion of the mixture that fits on the surface of the falcon.
- Take the solution with a plaster spatula, sketch it.
Independent construction and repair require a careful approach to the implementation of the plan. One of the common topics ishow to plaster walls with your own hands. Videos newbiewill help you complete the task. In addition, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the theory of the technique of performing work.
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Why are these events needed?
Wall plaster in the overall composition of the design of the room is not visible, but without it it is impossible. The presented technique is necessary for the insulation of the building and protection from the influence of the external environment. What's more, stucco can be an excellent fire retardant, as modern building materials cannot prevent rapid fires.
Considering the plaster of the walls, the following points of the necessity of the process can be distinguished:
- With the help of a layer of plaster, “rough” walls and ceilings are leveled, which are then simply painted or whitewashed.
- During the construction of houses, seams of partitions are formed, numerous, albeit minor, masonry defects can be found. This can be easily eliminated.
- The main task of plastering for a simple layman is the preliminary alignment of the walls for decorative work - wallpapering, painting surfaces.
The main types of mixtures and their preparation
Do-it-yourself plastercarried out by dissolving ready-made mixtures purchased in hardware stores.
The choice of products is huge, so you need to know exactly which one is better to use so as not to provoke a collapse - yes, a poor-quality mixture or improperly applied plaster can simply move away from the wall.
This happens in the event of a mistake, or immediately after application and drying, or already after the finished wall decoration, which is typical at the time of freezing in winter. To avoid such problems, all possible types of plaster mixtures should be studied.
Gypsum and cement mortars are suitable for wall decoration, each of which, in addition to the main component, includes binders and minor additives that perform a particular function. Mixtures in powder form are packed in sealed bags, so their shelf life exceeds several years.
Gypsum mixture
It has a low cost, but at the same time a high adhesion rate.Adhesive properties - this is the degree of adhesion to the surface and rapid hardening.By virtue of the presented indicators, this type of finish is used to level ceilings. The composition of the gypsum mixture includes gypsum and fine sand. Sand makes it possible to achieve the most even, smooth surface, so these mixtures are used for finishing walls for painting or for decorative processing.
The advantages of gypsum mixture are the following:
- the finished wall has good thermal insulation;
- gypsum can absorb excess liquid, and then repel it;
- plaster is great for residential premises in which a constant microclimate is maintained;
- gypsum mixture is able to prevent the spread of bacteria and fungi.
Plaster based on gypsum quickly hardens, so special substances are added to it, prolonging this process.
Important!Despite the positive properties, gypsum plaster is not recommended for use in rooms with a constantly changing microclimate. These include bathrooms, verandas of private houses.
cement mix
It is based on cement, but for better adhesion and laying quality, sand or crushed limestone is used.
Sand can be coarse, it all depends on the amount of added limestone and cement in general.
Wall plastering can be carried out with other compositions that are easy to make on your own. The proportions of the mixtures are presented in the table.
If there is no exact data on the proportions of mixing the basic substances to create a certain type of plaster, it is better to purchase a ready-made package. Manufacturers always indicate the features and characteristics of their products.
Surface pre-priming
Having decided how to plaster walls, proceed to the priming of the surface - a procedure that allows you to further reduce the absorption of moisture by the plaster.The primer is carried out with special compounds that prevent the development of fungi and bacteria on the wall.It is designed to improve adhesion, whereby DIY wall plasteringbecome more thorough.
For the primer, special dry mixes are used, which are diluted with water in the proportions indicated on the packages. The following is done next: 
- The roller is wetted in a special diluted primer.
- It is important to squeeze the roller as best as possible - the mixture should not drip.
- The wall is treated with a primer with simple roller movements - first horizontal, then vertical.
- If the primer is absorbed into the wall quickly, then you should wait until it dries completely and prime again.
Applying plaster to the walloccurs only after it has completely dried - sometimes you have to wait 1-2 days for this. Of course, before priming, a preliminary surface preparation procedure should be carried out.
Surface preparation
The only thing do-it-yourself plastering ruleis a prerequisite for preparatory work. This procedure includes 3 main processes - cleaning the surface, marking the wall and priming. The presented technology isdo-it-yourself wall plastering on lighthouses.
Preliminary work is carried out in several stages:
- First you need to get rid of large defects on the wall - often these are large cement leaks that occur due to improper laying of bricks, foam blocks and other building materials. If there is paint or decorative plaster on the walls, it must be knocked down.
- Then the entire wall is tapped with a hammer - this ensures the shedding of weak spots, which in the future will prevent the new layer of plaster from cracking or peeling it off the surface.
- If there are metal elements on the wall - nails and screws - they are removed. In the presence of fittings, use a grinder. The remaining parts are best treated with an anti-corrosion compound.
- Do-it-yourself plasteringnecessarily carried out with a large spray of diluted compounds, so it is better to cover the furniture with polyethylene.
- Next, the walls are checked with a building level to determine the presence of deviations. All places with depressions and other irregularities are marked with a marker.
- If there are holes larger than 3 cm, they must first be repaired with putty. In the presence of bumps, use a grinder until the maximum alignment.
- 30 cm recede from the corner and draw a straight vertical line using the building level. Then they retreat from the line 1.5 m and draw another line.
- On all wall surfaces, 15 cm retreat from the floor and ceiling along the drawn line and a hole is drilled. A self-tapping screw is screwed into it.
- Now you should pull the thread from corner to corner on the screws - you get 2 horizontal lines on each wall. These lines will intersect the vertical ones. At the intersections make marks and drill holes for dowels without self-tapping screws.
- Next, proceed to the priming procedure, which was described above.
Beacons help track the thickness of the applied layer of plaster mix.
With their help, precise alignment of the treated surface is carried out.
This greatly speeds up the process of work, and also makes it of high quality.
Lighthouses are purchased ready-made in hardware stores.
These are metal layers that have a mark that determines the thickness of the plaster layer.
materials
Process, how to plaster a walldepends on its type - what building materials it is built from. Let's take a closer look at the three types of walls:
- Brick - cement-based compositions are used for them. In addition, lime is added to them to make the mixture plastic and moisture resistant. The layer thickness should not exceed 3 cm.A reinforcing net is preliminarily attached to the wall to strengthen the layer and improve adhesion - this will improvedo-it-yourself wall plastering with cement mortar.
- Concrete - require mandatory priming with a mixture containing quartz sand and flour. For the main process, a cement mortar is used, to which gypsum or lime can be added. If the concrete has a characteristic roughness, use mixtures without additional inclusions. You can improve adhesion by treating the wall with Betonkontakt.
- Cellular concrete simplifies wall finishing. First, the surfaces should be treated with deep penetrating impregnation, and then plastered using solutions - gypsum, lime or concrete.
Attention!In hardware stores, a huge number of all kinds of mixtures are offered, which contain different compositions designed to treat a particular surface. The packages indicate the characteristics, methods of dilution: the contents are simply poured with water in a certain proportion, which is also indicated on the bags. If you follow the instructions, then there will be no problems with diluting mixtures.
Use of cement mortar
Do-it-yourself plastering of a brick wallwith the use of cement mortar begins with pre-treatment of surfaces, which was described above. As soon as the preparation for the installation of beacons is completed, and the walls are primed, you can proceed to the following activities:
- Self-tapping screws, screwed into the upper holes, are the starting point in working with the rule. The rule is applied to the self-tapping screws to form a vertical line - this will be a level indicating how deep the self-tapping screw will have to be screwed in from below.
- After that, 2 diagonal lines are pulled between the caps of the fasteners and a beacon is placed under them. If it touches the thread, then check the level of screwed screws. Once everything is aligned, proceed to tension the cord between the upper and lower self-tapping screws.
- Next, the beacon profile is cut off to the length that is required, along the vertical line of the location of the screws and an additional protrusion of 5 cm on both sides.
- Then, with the prepared solution, lay out a line of plaster along the marked vertical line. The beacon is pressed into the cement to a depth, in accordance with the located screws.
- The location of the beacons is checked with a level and the screws are removed.
- After waiting for the solution to dry on the wall, they proceed to the complete plastering of the walls using the "Spray" method.
- If the wall is concrete or brick, pre-moisten its surface with a roller or sponge.
- Next, with a spatula, they begin to throw the solution onto the wall from the bottom up. For beginners, this technique will cause difficulties, but they are easy to deal with by training, which takes no more than 10-15 minutes.
- If the cape of the solution did not work out, you can use a simple method - pick up the mixture on a wide spatula and carefully transfer it to the surface, gradually stretching the amount into an even layer.
- Having applied the plaster first on a small section of the wall, they take the rule and, having set it perpendicular to the beacons, they begin to draw a line in zigzag movements from the bottom up. This will help cut off the excess solution.
- When working with the rule, bubbles may form - these areas must be cleaned of the mixture, and then applied again, carefully leveling the wall.
- Next, the rule is to draw a flat vertical line again - in this way they do at least 5 times, achieving a perfectly flat surface.
Advice! Do-it-yourself plastering of wall cornerscarried out quickly with a small spatula. They apply the solution and carefully distribute it as evenly as possible with the main canvas. If there is a hillock, it is polished with sandpaper after the solution has dried. The corner is formed by a square.
What is grout
Grout is do-it-yourself wall plastering, which is designed to remove small errors on machined surfaces. Grout is carried out with special brushes, similar to sandpaper. Grouting should be carried out immediately after setting the plaster layer, but before it dries completely. The grater is pre-moistened with water if the solution is completely dry.Before work, wear a respirator, as a lot of dust is generated during the process.
Grout can be dry and with a solution. If the method of grouting with a solution is chosen, then the plaster solution is first made - thinner than was used for the main process. The solution is collected on a grater in small quantities and the surfaces are leveled.
The question has been discussed in detail above.What do you need for wall plastering?, as well as all the nuances of independent work with the condition of certain existing features. Subject to the recommendations and rules, there will be no problems with the independent surface finishing process.
Unfortunately, the quality of their finishes is often such that it is impossible to wallpaper or paint without preliminary work. The best solution in most cases. We offer detailed complete instructions for the walls with your own hands. It will help even a novice master to cope with difficult work.
Varieties of plaster mixes
Two types of materials are used to level surfaces. Their main difference lies in the basis on which all the characteristics of the solution depend. It could be:
- cement;
- gypsum.
Quartz sand of different grain sizes, plasticizers and other fillers are added to the base, which determine the purpose of the plaster paste. So, coarse sand allows you to level significant differences, while fine sand is used only for applying the last layer, covering small roughness.
Let's look at the pros and cons of each type of material.
Cement compositions
Differ in special durability, resistance to mechanical influences. They are not afraid of moisture, they can be used in rooms with special conditions: kitchens and. They do not collapse from temperature changes, are durable, have a low cost and can be made by hand. Even significant differences are well leveled. If a layer with a thickness of more than 20 mm is applied, a reinforcing mesh must be used.
Lime, clay, gypsum can be used as fillers, giving plasticity, antiseptic properties. Of the shortcomings, it should be noted a large mass of cement mortars. They give a significant load on the base, which must be taken into account. Low ductility leads to shrinkage and possible cracking. For the same reason, laying such a paste is quite difficult. Moreover, it does not fit all grounds. Cement dries for a long time, completely hardens only after a month.
Gypsum mixes
The main advantage is plasticity and ease of application. The paste fits well on any base and adheres firmly to it. Gypsum is lightweight. Even a thick layer of such a mass will not make the structure heavier. It never shrinks, practically does not crack. Dries much faster than the cement counterpart. The finishing mass is so good that subsequent puttying is most often not necessary.
The most significant disadvantage of the material is hygroscopicity. Gypsum easily absorbs water, soaks and collapses. Therefore, the use of gypsum varieties for outdoors or rooms with high humidity is prohibited. Moisture-resistant mixtures for interior styling are available, but they should also be used with caution. The disadvantages include the high cost of the material and the inability to manufacture it independently.
How to plaster walls: the choice of tools and material
To make it clear to the novice master what is required for the work, we list everything you need.
- , plaster or cement. We choose depending on the purpose of the premises and our own skills. It is easier for a beginner to work with plaster, but it is more expensive and can only be used for dry rooms.
- Suitable primer. It is necessary for the preparation of the foundation.
- Beacons. They are installed in case of large drops and the presence of significant irregularities on the surface.
- Long rule. If it is planned to install beacons, we choose a length of 250 cm, 200 cm will be enough to pull the solution.
- Bubble level 200 cm long and plumb line.
- Wide spatula and trowel for applying the mixture.
- A special construction grater and a metal iron to eliminate roughness.
- Bucket and perforator with a special nozzle for mixing plaster paste.
In addition, you may need to fix the beacons, a tape measure for accurate marking.
Further actions will vary depending on the material with which to work.
Concrete
Such a base is quite smooth, in order to improve its adhesion to the mortar, it is recommended to make notches. They are performed at a small distance from each other, deepened by 10-15 mm. Then they cover everything with a primer. Given the hardness, the work will be very laborious. Therefore, you can do otherwise: prime it with a special primer. Select a deep penetration adhesive primer.
It contains sand, which, after drying, should remain on the base. Sometimes this technique does not work well, so it is recommended to test the primer before plastering. They treat a small area and wait until it dries completely. Then they pass by hand. If the roughness is well felt and the sand does not crumble, the entire surface is treated. Otherwise, notches are made.
Brick
Despite the fact that it is quite rough on its own, it is recommended to go over the cleaned material with a grinder or a wire brush. The seams between the bricks must be expanded, so the mixture can get into them, which will improve the adhesion of the plaster. Then the dust is removed first with a brush, and then with a damp cloth. Finally, two coats of primer are applied.
Wood
In order for the plaster mass to be firmly fixed on a wooden base, it is necessary to equip the crate. It is made from slats, which are also called shingles. Elements are nailed diagonally. It is important to use only high-quality shingles, additionally treated with an antiseptic. Otherwise, it will quickly rot and destroy the coating.
To make the task easier, you can use a chain-link mesh instead. It is nailed to the slats that fit between the base and. They, like shingles, can serve as beacons in the alignment process. In this case, the elements are set strictly according to the level. All wooden parts are treated with an antiseptic and dried well, only after that you can plaster the crate.
Beacon application technology
It is used to equalize significant differences. Metal guides are used as guidelines that will show how the walls are. Don't skimp on buying them. High-quality metal can subsequently be left inside the base, and it will not rust over time. Parts of dubious quality are best removed, which is quite laborious.
Guides are installed along the entire length of the wall at a distance of about 150 cm from one another. Such a distance is chosen so that during the alignment process the rule moves along two adjacent profiles. They are set strictly according to the level and securely fixed to the base. The easiest way to do this is to use a gypsum mortar, which sets quickly and holds the elements securely. You can mount on self-tapping screws, but it is more difficult.
Then the plaster solution is prepared. This must be done in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Next, proceed to plastering:
- Sketch. Pour the mixture onto the base. You can do this manually, with a trowel or with a special device if mechanized laying is expected. A thick paste is drawn onto the tool and with some effort “splashes” onto the base. A layer about 5 mm thick is placed on concrete, and 8-9 mm on wood. We put the rule on the beacons and stretch the coating from bottom to top, leveling it. Leave for at least 2 hours to dry.
- Priming. Prepare dough mixture. We apply it with a wide spatula, performing movements in an arbitrary direction, but with some effort. Using the rule, we check the quality of the alignment. We remove all protruding areas with a grater moistened with water. Gently rub a small amount of solution into the cavities. Leave to dry for at least 3 hours.
- Nakryvka. We prepare a solution of a creamy consistency. You can apply it with a spatula or draw it into a ladle and pour a small amount of liquid paste on the wall from top to bottom. We smooth it with the rule, completely leveling the base. We let it dry for 8 hours, after which we slightly moisten it and clean it with a construction grater.
Plastering yourself is not so difficult, even if a novice master takes up the matter. Skills are developed on the job. Before taking on the finish, it is advisable to practice on a small area. So you can identify all the "weak" places, work with them, get the necessary skills and a little experience.
