DIY surfing board. How to make a do-it-yourself surfboard for riding on the river

About 1.5 years ago, I got the idea to make a new-fashioned floating craft, SUP (standing with an oar on a board in translation from English).

it was about a one-room apartment being repaired. The client did not care about the timing, which gave rise to a creative impulse.

a batch of expanded polystyrene was assigned to the customer's estimate, brought in and glued with polyurethane foam

we cut the workpiece lengthwise for pasting a stringer made of plywood (as it was later clear that it was possible not to make a stringer)

we glue stringer and halves with polyurethane foam

we shape contours and contours using an electric planer, skin, and other tools
we make mortgages from A-3 stainless steel furniture nut and plywood circles

mortgages are planned for a seat, spearguns, and in the future for an electric motor with a screw

We paste over everything nafig with fiberglass with epoxy resin. We reinforce the PPU with a strip from a water pipe
we hang it under the ceiling and continue the apartments

we make mortgages for the fin, successfully forgotten by the project in the turmoil

by weight distribution, we find the SUPa center empirically and make mounts for the handle

we make a fin out of plywood and glue it over with fiberglass. This shape is due to the desire to reduce the draft of the SUP

we prime the car with a gray primer, small pits and drops are putty with BODY polyester

paint a car with KAMAZ paint (color name) and automotive varnish. We grab the arrival and slight discomfort due to work, albeit in a respirator, but with closed windows in the room.

Now is the time for the oars. There will be three.

wood lamellas of different hardness

from the available means we collect the slipway for the shaft of the oar.

We glue the paddle blades to the shaft. Although the technology is not the one shown in YouTube videos, it is also working.

It turns out like this.

The handle itself is on the shaft. I liked this shape, and it fits comfortably in the hand.

Trunk - stand made of plywood and tourist mat for SUP

We lower the product itself from the 9th floor

We load on a working machine

The oars themselves before painting with varnish and fiberglass

the edge of the blades is edged with plastic from an old construction bucket

varnish and fiberglass on the blades of the oars

result at the end

we make a handle from a rope, we glue the EVA deck with a rug

fin itself

we go to nature, Pleshcheyevo lake

launching

I ride for three days on the lake. All the rules, you can sunbathe on this vessel, you can fish with a spinning rod or a fishing rod. Standing to swim is interesting, because you see everything that happens under the SURom. On the boat, the glare of the water does not allow you to see the bottom on small things, while standing you can see everything like in an aquarium. I always took a two-handed oar with me in reserve, when you get tired of rowing while standing, you can sit down and row with a two-handed one. The speed increases significantly. I plan to buy a compound bow and hunt fish. The fish is probably not frightened because of the shallow draft, it used to be an oar kicked bream and carp for a couple of kg.

The product turned out to be cool, although I would have done many things differently now. I will not fool my head with painting anymore, it is better to paint in a special workshop, I need a full hand for this matter, my color was a little tough.

this thing is inferior in transportation and storage to inflatable SUPs. And the point of entry and exit from the water, unfortunately, is the same. You can turn the inflator and get to the starting point by transport or do without a car at all. But to each his own, I'm happy with the result.

Windsurfing is one of the most exciting and exciting. Windsurfing is a hybrid of surfing and sailing. For riding on the waves, athletes use windsurf (sometimes it is called a windsurfer, just like the athlete himself). This is a floating board to which a mast with a sail is attached.

You can make your own windsurf board

This board does not have a rudder. The athlete learns to control the projectile by adjusting the direction of the sail and the positions of his own body.

No less fun than surfing, but less expensive than sailing. Moreover, you can do windsurf for practicing this kind of active sport with your own hands at home. True, for this you must be able to handle wood well and it is desirable to know the basics of elementary shipbuilding at least in theory.

Before describing the process of manufacturing a floating product itself, you need to decide what materials you need.

Materials (edit)

Stock up on all the materials and tools you need in advance to keep it less fussy and more solid. Try to be careful when purchasing material. The process of creating a sailing surf is already quite time consuming. And buying the missing products will only add to the hassle.

So, before you start making a board, buy the following consumables:

• two large sheets of plywood. It is necessary that the thickness of each of them reaches 4 millimeters;
• plywood sheet 1 centimeter thick;
• slats 20 by 20 millimeters. You will need about seven of them;
• seven meters of thin slats;
• slats 2.5 meters long, 10 by 30 mm. You need to purchase six pieces;
• a small piece of plywood up to two millimeters thick;
• epoxy waterproof glue;
• nails;
• construction foam;
• fiberglass;
• waterproof dyes;
• metal strips;
• a small piece of brass;
• duralumin strip 4–5 mm thick.

After purchasing all these goods, you can start the process of creating a sailing shell.

Frame

The first step is to make a board - the body of the product. You can see the dimensions of its parts and the principle of their ratio in Figure 1 below.

Kilsons

Do-it-yourself surfing, take plywood and cut in two keelsons. They can be made using a regular saw. For convenience, first draw the outlines of one keelson and cut it out, and make the second board in the image and likeness of the first.

The keelsons must be connected along the contour. This is done using rails. Do not forget that the product will have a mast. Leave room for her. How you secure the mast and centerboard will determine the future handling of the surf.

Be sure to cut small holes in the keels when creating your board. In the future, this will help the device to be ventilated.

Chances are, the plywood sheets you purchased will not be long enough to create a solid structure. But the board can be glued. Use a rasp to cut the parts to be bonded. The bonding points need to be processed so that they become rough (this will increase the adhesion level). After that, grease the board around the edges with epoxy glue and connect the plywood sheets. A rail can be inserted between them to determine the internal height of the projectile. The overlapping sections of the plywood structure must be knocked down with nails. When the workpiece dries, the sharp tips of the nails will need to be bitten off. The strip is also removed when dry.

Deck and bottom

They can also be crafted. This is done according to the drawings. The cut out these parts must first be glued with a keelson, and then secured with nails. Pay attention to the fact that the mounts are spaced from each other at a distance not exceeding thirty centimeters.

The boards need to be filled with construction foam. In the worst case, you can use the packaging type of this material.

Lubricate the foam for fixing with epoxy. The glue must be applied to each piece. After that, the material should "look" behind the board by half a centimeter.

When the glue dries, you will need to give the foam an oval shape. It's easy to do with sandpaper.

The resulting structure must be "packed" in fiberglass. You can use a wood stapler for this.

Holes

After upholstery, it is necessary to prepare holes in the places to which they will be attached: fin, step and centerboard.

Painting

Now you can give your device the look you want by painting the board with waterproof paint. If you saturate the plywood with linseed oil after painting, it can last longer.

Mast

The mast created can be made of long rails. In principle, they can also be replaced with a duralumin tube.

Creating a mast from rails, they need to be glued according to the drawings shown in Figure 1, and processed.

After manufacturing, the mast must be checked for strength. If the device turns out to be too flexible, coat it with epoxy glue and cover it with one layer of fiberglass. This should increase the elasticity of the product.

The mast must be coated with a water-repellent varnish.

Make flats on its thick ends. Each will have a hinge. You can see its structure in Figure 2.

The hinge cube is made from brass, and the metal parts are made from strips of metal that are 2-4 millimeters thick.

Geek

Rails of 10 by 30 millimeters are also useful for him. They need to be laid on the tsulag and precisely adjusted to one another. After that, the surface of the slats must be sanded with sandpaper and spread with glue. Now they can be clamped with a tsulaga.

The outer fittings must be made of prepared duralumin.

Fin and centerboard

Your surf centerboard should be flexible. The athlete must be able to push it in and out. It can be made from 1 cm thick plywood. You will need to cut two identical shapes and then glue them together.

The centerboard feather needs to be shaped like a drop. Then saturate the centerboard with linseed oil.

Glue the fin from three- or four-millimeter plywood.

Sail

The sail is the engine of your surf. Therefore, it is advisable not to save on it. Do not be stingy and buy this part in the store.

However, if you still decide to create this part of the projectile with your own hands, do it carefully and carefully.

Material

Choose synthetic material with the lowest level of airflow. He will not gain much weight when wet and at the same time will perfectly cope with the role of a "tractor".

Dacron is ideal. You can also use a thin tarp.

For loyal riding conditions, you can choose jacket and raincoat fabrics, as well as cotton materials. But when using them, remember the need for additional strengthening. Fake goods will help you with this.

Cut

The sail should be cut after the mast is installed on board. So you will know the exact required dimensions and even calculate the deflection.

To cut the fabric, spread it out on the floor. Determine the leech lengths, sail angles and sketch on the material. The roulette will help you with this. At the top of the corners, hammer in a nail. Tie a thread to each nail. Pull it towards each corner to form a triangle.

The length of the thread on each side of the triangle must match the length of the leech.

Transfer the dimensions of the sickles from the drawing. Using a regular felt-tip pen, you can outline the maximum sail dimensions for yourself. Do not forget about hem allowances. On average, one allowance can reach half a meter.

After setting the sail, the product is considered finished.

If you know a little more about how to create windsurf yourself, please share your experience in the comments.

Good wind to you!

All surfers sooner or later start to think about how the board is arranged, the components it consists of, the materials from which the surf is made, and how surfboards are made. Someone just for the sake of interest, and someone in order to better understand what moments in the surf device affect its behavior. The purpose of this article is to acquaint you with how and from what materials boards are made.

The history of surfboards

The history of surfing began in Polynesia around 400 AD. The Polynesians brought this sport with them when they first settled in Hawaii. The first Hawaiian planks were made from various types of wood found on the island. Surfs were hand-carved from wood, then dyed and finished using natural plant juices and oils.
The longest boards were called 'olos, their length ranged from 3.6 to 6 meters, and weighed about 90 kilograms. Experiments with wooden planks in the 1920s and 30s led to the emergence of a hollow surfboard design and the use of mahogany or balsa to make it.

The first fiberglass board (from the English Fiberglass - fiberglass) was made in 1946. It consisted of two hollow molded parts with a mahogany strip in the center to reinforce the structure. In 1949, Bob Simmons made the first surfboard with a foam core sandwiched between thin layers of plywood veneer and covered in resin.
In 1958, boards of modern design were born when Hobie Alter began producing surfboards with a pre-shaped polyurethane foam core covered with multiple layers of polyester resin. Today, the vast majority of boards are arranged this way.

How surfboards are made, their structure and design

Modern boards use a rigid polyurethane foam or polystyrene foam core with fiberglass and resin coating. If a stringer is involved in the design, then it is made of mahogany, linden or spruce. Fins (fin) are made of wood or several layers of fiberglass and resin.

Shapers (those people who make surfs) are constantly experimenting with board designs. Most surfboards are now handcrafted. Each design, each shape is, as a rule, an individual development of a separate shaper. Over the past 4 decades, boards have gotten shorter, then longer, and then shorter again. Two fins have replaced one, and they, in turn, have been replaced by three fins.
And today shapers continue to experiment with surfboard design, as they make surfboards better and better each time, striving to invent "the one". So, for example, some prosurfers use from five to ten boards, depending on the riding style or the type of wave on a particular spot.

How surfboards are made: the manufacturing process

1. The technique and materials may vary slightly from one shaper to another, but in general, the manufacturing process for a surfboard looks like this.
2. The foam core, or blank board (blank) - the first rough workpiece of the surf - is poured in cement molds, covered from the inside with special paper, which prevents the foam from sticking to the cement. The two halves of the cement mold are pressed together and heated, then liquid polyurethane foam is poured into the mold. High temperatures initiate a chemical reaction that hardens the polyurethane and turns it into a hard, white foam. After 25 minutes, the workpiece is taken out of the mold and left to cool. When the workpiece is finally hardened, it is cut in half, a stringer is inserted between the two halves and all three parts are glued together. The stringer gives the board extra rigidity.
3. In the next step, the blank board is shaped (shaped). The contours of the surf are outlined on the workpiece using wooden patterns. The saw is used to saw off excess material along the contours. Then the shaper, starting from the bottom of the board, gives it a more precise shape with an electric plane, after surfing, turn it over and start working on the other side. As soon as the board has been shaped, the rails (the edges of the surf) are shaped with a large skin, they are brought to the final shape with a zero, they mark the place for the fin and put the author's signature with the dimensions.
4. The board is now ready to form an outer, hard shell of fiberglass and resin. First, the future surf is blown with a jet of compressed air. After the drawing is applied directly to the foam with acrylic paint using an airbrush. Then, when the paint is dry, the board is covered with fiberglass and cut to shape. The surfboard deck is laminated first. The polyester resin is mixed with the hardener, this triggers a chemical reaction that hardens the resin within 15 minutes. The resin is spread over the surface of the board with a rubber scraper. The fiberglass should be coated with a very even layer of resin. When the top of the board is finished, the process is repeated on the other side. Further, for greater strength and durability, a second layer is applied to both sides. The next layer of resin is called the fill layer. It has this name because it fills in all the irregularities of the previous layer. This resin is mixed with a hardener in a different proportion and hardens completely. Also at this stage, holes are drilled for inserts for fins and lichen.
5. Now any excess resin should be removed as much as possible with sandpaper.
6. Final processing. Compressed air removes all dust from the board and the surf is covered with the last layer of a special glossy resin. The board is left to dry for the next 12 hours.

Now you know how to make surfboards inside and out!

Quality control

The board is examined several times during manufacture. After the blank is removed from the cement mold, it is carefully examined for defects. During shaping (shaping) the board is illuminated with special lights on the sides so that the shaper can notice any unevenness. After finishing, the board is examined once again to ensure it meets the shaper's quality standards.

What's next or the future of surfing

Experiments with board design, materials and workflow have led to new approaches to surfboard manufacturing. Each has its own pros and cons.

In the field of surfboard design, the use of computers has greatly simplified the board design process. Working with special software, the designer can develop a three-dimensional model of the future surf, easily change its dimensions and contours, and then print the templates necessary for its manufacture. This saves a lot of time over the traditional method, but many shapers still prefer to rely on their eyes and hands to judge the quality of a new board.

In terms of materials, more and more shapers have recently begun to switch to using expanded polystyrene instead of polyurethane and epoxy instead of polyester. The advantage of these materials is in the lighter structure of the board, its reinforcement and rigidity. In addition, epoxy is less harmful to the environment. The disadvantages are the much more complicated resin preparation process, high production times and high production costs.

The process of shaping the board also has its own innovations - the use of special computer-numerical-controlled (CNC) shaping machines, which can give the board the desired shape in 25 minutes instead of several hours that are required for manual work. The disadvantage of this technology is the high cost of the machine and the need to reprogram it again to produce a surfboard with a different design. In the end, the point is that as they gain experience, surfers will order more and more custom boards at reasonable prices.

Well, and finally, a video on how surfboards are made 🙂

The DIY master has over ten years of experience making surfboards. In this instruction, he will guide us through all the steps and subtleties of making a board. Almost every step is complemented by video instructions.

Tools and materials:
-Polystyrene XPS or EPS;
-Polyurethane glue;
-Epoxy resin type Resin Research;
-Additive to resin ADDITIVE F;
-Fiberglass fabric;
-Water-based paint;
-Auto polishing;
-Working stand;
-Types;
-Clamps;
-Slifmashinka;
-Scales;
-Foam cut;
-Emery paper with a grain size from 20 to 2000;
- Scotch tape;
-Painting brush;
-Containers for mixing resin;
-Gloves;
-Respirator;
-Putty knife;
-Little;
-Plywood;
-Band-saw;

Step one: choosing expanded polystyrene
A surfboard can be made from two types of Styrofoam. Consider the pros and cons of each.
EPS-non-pressed polystyrene foam.
+
White color, does not delaminate, readily available, large blocks.
—
If damaged, it absorbs water, small balls may come off during grinding, must be dried after use.

XPS-extruded polystyrene foam.
+
Does not absorb water, does not "crumble" when sanding, does not require drying, readily available.
—
It can delaminate, has a blue or pink color, and is available only in sheets.
The master will make this board from XPS-expanded polystyrene.

Step two: gluing the sheets
For the board you need a material with a thickness of approx. 10 cm. Since there are no such sheets, the master glues two sheets of 5 cm each. First, he cleans the surface with sandpaper. He wipes it off with a rag. Apply polyurethane glue over the entire surface of one sheet. The surface of the second sheet is wetted with water (the glue starts on contact with water). Glues two sheets together. Through the boards, he pulls the sheets with ties and clamps. Bonding time 24 hours.

Step three: stringer
A stringer is a thin strip of wood or other materials that runs along the longitudinal axis of the surf. A stringer reinforces the structure of the board, providing it with additional rigidity and flexibility.
Stringer is made from plywood by the craftsman. The template is made according to the instructions from the Clark Foam catalog.
Transfer the template to the plywood and cut with a band saw. Processes the ends with sandpaper.

Next, you need to glue the stringer to the expanded polystyrene. Cuts the expanded polystyrene block lengthwise into two equal parts. The master uses a board as a guide. Cleans the sides with sandpaper. Attaches a stringer to each side and traces with a marker. Glue a stringer between two blanks with polyurethane glue. Clamps with ties. Leaves for 24 hours.

Video in the next step.
Step four: pruning
After gluing, on the sides of the board with tape, fixes the stringer template boards. The templates serve as guides when cutting off excess polystyrene foam layers. Pruning is done with a homemade foam cutter.

Video for step number 3, 4.

Step five: trim the edges
Outlines the outline of an old surfboard (or makes a template out of paper, the template can be found on the Internet). Cuts off both sides. Sands one side. Then he makes a template and transfers it to the other side in a mirror. It processes the second side according to the template. The two sides are symmetrical.

Step six: sanding
Sands the board using a variety of tools and devices from a sander to sandpaper. It is necessary to achieve an almost symmetrical shape of both halves of the board.

Video step number 5, 6.

Step seven: rails
Rails are the edges of the board from nose to tail. The master rounds off the rails. To do this, he applies markings to the surface of the board (deck) and rails. Then cuts off excess material. If the material is damaged, putty it. In the event that a large piece is damaged, glues the expanded polystyrene.

Finishing the surfboard making in the second part.

usamodelkina.ru

Surfs are divided into several types according to stability, maneuverability, functionality:

1. Longboards. By their appearance, they resemble a small boat, are the most stable, therefore they are well suited for beginners, helping to maintain balance.
2. Minimalibu. They are even more suitable for developing surfer skills - it is easy to feel the wave on a voluminous and moderately long board.
3. Evolutionary. Suited already for surfers making progress. They perfectly combine stability and maneuverability.
4. Ghana. Their element is big waves. The most functional of the whole series.
5. Shortboards. A short and narrow surf for the real pros. Differs in technicality and maneuverability.

How to make your own surfboard

The most convenient ones to make on your own are fiberglass and epoxy surfers.

To do this, you need a polyurethane foam mold, polyurethane resin and fiberglass (first option) or EPS resin and a polystyrene foam blank (second option). In both cases, you will need a long wooden plank - the future stringer, thanks to which the surfboard gains rigidity.

With our own hands we make them like this:

1. Cut the workpiece in half and insert the stringer.
2. Give the board the shape you want, which will influence the "character" of your board. At this stage, the length, width, thickness of the board, its appearance, the shape of its deck and bottom, rails, tail and nose are determined. A do-it-yourself surfboard is made along the contours of wooden patterns. It is shaped with a saw, sandpaper and a plane.
3. Write the size on the board already formed and leave your signature - this is the tradition.
4. Mark the fins and paint your creation
5. Place fiberglass on top of the picture and start the final stage - lamination. This is an even application with a spatula over the entire surface of the resin board. After it dries, drill holes for the leash and fins.
6. Sand the surfboard to remove any residual resin, cover with a glossy resinous finish and leave to dry for a day.

Everything! Do-it-yourself surfboard.

Motor surfboard

A do-it-yourself surfboard with a motor is made from simple, one might say, improvised materials:

• graphite foam;
• plywood (3-4 mm);
• polyurethane foam with glue effect;
• and, in fact, the engine.

Operating instructions:

1. The "fish" shape is most suitable for this design. Shape the styrofoam into the shape of the "fish".
2. Make a recess in it according to the dimensions of the sealed box, where the motor and the PowerBank that feeds it will be placed.
3. A flexible shaft should go from the box and the motor (from the drill, for example), to which the propeller must be attached. You can also build a steering wheel.
4. We advise you to use a pump motor of at least 200 watts and 2800 rpm. As already mentioned, it will be powered from PowerBank (you can use either one or a pair of batteries).
5. The engine must be in communication with the batteries through a water protection switch.

In such a simple way, a do-it-yourself surfboard is made. We hope this article gives you some inspiration to create your dream surf.

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Further…
Pasting the body itself!
Before pasting, it is necessary to sand the seam so that the resin adheres to it well. Remove all irregularities. You can putty the necessary areas for a perfect shape.
I did it with the same resin, but with the addition of Aerosil to the desired consistency. (Aerosil is a white powder, silicon dioxide, used specifically to impart viscosity to the resin)
I must say right away: to cover with resin and fabric as in the video from YouTube - several layers of fabric at once and one bucket of resin - DO NOT NECESSARY in 5 minutes! We are not pros)) We do everything calmly and little by little. We mix in small portions and pour first over the workpiece, leveling with a spatula - so that the resin fills the micro pores of the foam and then there are no bubbles. Then we put 1 layer of fabric and smooth it on the workpiece with a spatula, pulling the fabric so that there are no wrinkles and folds. (At the last gluing, I just put a roll of fabric on the board and unwound it by rolling it around the board, cutting off the length in fact, after which it just remained to smooth a little along the edges at the bends. This method, in my opinion, is the most convenient and leads to the least amount of wrinkles and folds !) Now we pour the fabric from above and again work with a spatula, distributing the resin evenly and smoothing the fabric on the curves (it sticks without any problems taking the desired shape!) Remove excess resin with a spatula, there should be no slurry!
As soon as finished with the first layer - IMMEDIATELY put the second on top according to the same principle - leveled, then the resin - spread with a spatula ... repeat with the third layer.
After spreading the resin with a spatula, leave it to dry for 12-24 hours. On the finished surface, the texture of the fabric itself will show through slightly.
but, in principle, not critical (inflatable air hoppers also have a texture) If you wish, you can putty the car with putty until a perfectly smooth surface is obtained.
*** IMPORTANT! When we have already put the last layer of fabric, we need to really estimate the required amount of resin that we will pour over the last layer. IT SHOULD NOT BE LIVE! those. if you put the last layer and it is almost completely soaked from the lower ones - no need to pour another bucket of resin on top! Pour in a little bit and level it, removing all excess, so that the texture of the fabric appears. Straightly pressing down the spatula well, we remove all unnecessary. Otherwise, the excess resin will collect in clots when it dries and remain bumps on the surface. Sanding then this business to a level is almost impossible! Just putty on top. If you remove all the unnecessary, the surface will remain flat, slightly textured. In this case, the strength of the structure will be even higher !!!

We are doing all this so far only from one side!
The output is something like this))

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Alexander Orlov decided to build his own SUP. After the first bad experience, he decides to start all over again, but already approaching the process more thoroughly. Here's what the constructor says:

“I sketched a sketch of the future board, taking as a basis those boards that Evgeny Rezontov advised me. Dimensions 3.4m by 0.75m. Thickness 0.11m. The shape is streamlined, symmetrical, flat. However, I noticed that many boards have a stern edge cut off ... Why is this done?

As for the design: it will be glued from several layers. Top and bottom layers of 30mm polystyrene foam. Between them is a non-continuous layer of 50 mm expanded polystyrene, the cavities in which are filled with ordinary ball foam. This is done to lighten the board, because weighs polystyrene 2 times less than expanded polystyrene. Another option is not to fill these voids with anything at all.

Well, the longitudinal stiffener is supposed to be made of 4mm laminated fiberboard. All this is covered with two layers of fiberglass. Estimated board weight - up to 10 kg. Volume 230 liters.

My goal is rest on the water plus, perhaps, a device for training the shoulder girdle. We are not talking about extreme skiing, catching waves, etc. Moreover, I live in central Russia on the Volga River. Therefore, I expect from the board, first of all, convenience, stability and good speed. Why did you choose this form? Yes, it's just that it is the easiest to manufacture, and what pros or cons other forms give, I don't know.

Why am I going to use expanded polystyrene? Yes, it is more expensive and heavier than polystyrene. However, it is much tougher and more durable. The first board, which I made too small, I managed to roll up in one layer of fiberglass and it was already stiff enough for me to jump on it. Boards made of PSBS are much softer and they are rolled into more layers of fiberglass, and the top surface is additionally veneered. All this is very labor intensive, especially at home. "

After listening to comments and advice from other interested people, Alexander revised his blueprints and slightly modified his glanders, which will make him more maneuverable and increase his performance on the water.

We are waiting for the continuation of this process and photos of the finished board and its happy owner.

supsurf.ru

Regarding the fins, it is still too much, but this is individual.
My kayak 5.20 is easier to turn than the SAP, although this was the first impression. And actually the first way out. Not so long ago I embarked on smooth water, I like mountains more, stormy stream, high speed.
But my soul asked for water constantly, and the Caucasus and the Carpathians are available to me once a year, no more. So I switched to smooth water, and now I'm hooked

As for my SUP, I focused it on hiking for 3 - 4 days to begin with, with full autonomy, i.e. the whole bivouac on the board, food, water too.
In principle, in the spring, as I polish, I plan to do 140 km along the Desna, go out for 3 days, maybe for May, I want to pull people up, ask for a canoe, which I made to order, 3 kayaks are now standing with me and walk.

As for the operation, yes, there are limitations, but not as big as it might seem initially.
With a kayak, after the first year of operation, both in good wind and waves, and, accordingly, a chalk through one place, and among the ice (I had to chop ice the year before last to break through the river), I maximize a couple of scratches on the varnish.

When I was at the Red Bull marathon, I had to get off in the middle of the distance, my legs came together and I completely lost control, I got some more water while pulling. In general, until I found a place where to drag the kayak along the slope, then until I got to the people with the kayak, where the water was splashing, I could not pour it out, who could explain "where am I" to the driver ... Why am I all this? to the fact that I dragged about 500 - 700 meters kayak behind me, on the ground, roots, sand. branches. Not a single trace on the varnish! But the varnish is not very cheap
The second kayak turned over on Mezhtgorye and the man, with a good wave, simply dragged him onto a concrete pier, tried to get into it 2 times and turned over and everything was repeated. There YES! 2 layers of fiberglass were punched, and that was not up to the tree. It was possible to continue.

I do the same on SUP, it's hard to kill him.
He is not afraid of the sun, and in winter he can lie in the snow in any frost.

As for sharp stones, I do not take small pebbles from the sea, they do not leave traces, as well as shells, then yes, stones are deplorable for him.
If you run it on the asphalt, then the coating will also be damaged 100% and this is not fatal, a loss of aesthetics. no more.
But everything else does almost no harm. Including falls from a meter height.

In any case, the kayak had nothing, and I mocked them in full.
As for the repair, everything is much easier, including it is possible to carry out repairs in field conditions.

Regarding foam rugs, in my case, this is not an option, or I have not yet met transparent foam rugs. I don't want to close the drawing.

One more moment, for me a tree is a soul, a character, an exclusive.
As for mass production, this is a serial.
But this is my personal opinion, on which I do not insist

supforum.com.ua

How to do windsurfing.

Making a windsurf board with your own hands is a laborious process. You need to take it seriously. There is a lot of controversy on the topic of buying a board or making it yourself. If you still decide to do windsurfing with your own hands, then read on. (there is a video of the tests)

Moreover, this technology is useful for the manufacture of car tuning, as well as for the manufacture of any fiberglass products.

More often than not, it is much easier to buy a ready-made used board. If you are interested in trying a board with a non-standard design, then the decision is justified. Still, it probably makes sense to start making a large blackboard, from which you will quickly grow up, but friends can learn on it.

I will try to describe the most important aspects of making your own windsurf board.

1. Project. The easiest way, of course, is to take the dimensions from the finished board and write them down in the table. Or to correct it in the 3d-shape program.

2. For the manufacture of the base of the board, we will use foam with a minimum density, for example, 15kg / m3. Since it goes in sheets, but you have to glue the sheets together. It is best to glue with construction foam. We use toothpicks as guides.

Once marked, glue the pie together, again using construction foam and toothpicks or bamboo rods as guides.

So we glue the entire base of the board one by one. Since the foam tends to expand, it is necessary to apply it a little and load the glued parts well.

As a result, we get the base of the board. The laminated structure of puncture-glued elements will give us longitudinal strength.

After the foam has completely dried, i.e. no less than a day later, we begin to form a board from the resulting workpiece using a jigsaw and a clerical knife.

It would be nice to have external frame templates (cross-sections) to accurately cut the core of the foam board. Smooth the surface with coarse emery - the core of the board is almost ready.

It remains only to cut redans in the aft part of the board, they reduce the sliding area of ​​the board in planing mode. Redan might look like this.

Or so. There are many more options. You can redan and not do it.

Now the core of the board is almost complete. Bottom view.

In industrial conditions, the core is made from a single block of extruded low density polystyrene foam using a copier machine. Manually, you have to tinker with it decently. How the finished product will look depends on the quality of its manufacture.

3. When the foam core is ready, it must be pasted over with coarse calico or any other cotton cloth on PVA glue. This will achieve several goals:

- level the surface

- epoxy resin has the ability to dissolve foam and such pasting will serve as a barrier between the core and the outer stands of the fiberglass.

4. The next and very important stage is the manufacture of the fin well and masttrack, as well as embedded foot loops.

This process is worthy of a whole separate article, so I will outline it very briefly. Basically, everything is clear from the photographs.

The fin well is made in a shape that we cut out of several sheets of thick plywood.

We use a ready-made fin as an internal bolkanka, which we carefully coat in several layers with a separator and polish it before laying it. You can use a colorless wax-based shoe polish as a separator. In order not to be mistaken, do the tests - grease some surface with a cream and let it dry. And then drip with epoxy. When it hardens, it should easily detach from the surface. Finished fin well looks like this.

We make the shoulder strap for the mast from aluminum corners, which we screw into the plywood base.

The finished masttrack looks like this

The foot loop inserts can be made of any plastic such as polystyrene. You can take blocks of dense wood and glue them into bushings made of aluminum, brass or, best of all, stainless steel.

A simpler option is to glue cubicles from a variety of polystyrene sheets. We fasten the hinges into such cubes with screws.

After that, at the marked distance from the stern, we insert the mast track (usually its center is 145 cm from the stern) and the fin well (the center is about 20 cm from the stern).

Before gluing both halves, several layers of fiberglass with epoxy resin must be laid in the place of the glue. So we will form a stringer - the main longitudinal stiffening rib of the board.

We tighten the parts to be glued, for example, with elastic bands from an expander. It's generally a good idea to stock up on some of these hooked rubber bands. Then they will come in handy in order to fix the board on the roof of the car for transportation over short distances.

6. The base of the board is ready. It remains to remember to glue the mortgages under the hinges and start lamination, i.e. covering the board with fiberglass and impregnating this fiberglass with epoxy.

But there is one more intermediate stage, which is not necessary, but very desirable - covering the board with a layer of wood veneer. It will give the board additional strength and possolit to reduce the number of layers of fiberglass and epoxy, which means to reduce the weight of the board.

7. Lamination - covering the board with layers of fiberglass and epoxy. This is also a broad topic worthy of a whole article, but I will try to write only the key points. It is important to determine the places of possible burns by the mast and trample by feet and glue the board in these places with additional layers of fiberglass in epoxy resin. Only then proceed to lamination. For lamination, you need fiberglass with a density of 200-250 grams / square meter. Dyamayu, 2 layers will be enough. We had a fabric with a density of about 350 g / m2. and very thin, then one layer was laid first and another thin layer. In places of additional reinforcement, two layers of 350 fabric were laid.

The fiberglass cloth is applied to the board and then with an assistant on top, apply a layer of epoxy resin, carefully smoothing it and removing excess. It is important to avoid the formation of air bubbles. After that, we put it in a plastic bag and pump out the air from it. A compressor from an old refrigerator can be used as a vacuum pump.

Evacuation removes air bubbles from under the glass fabric. Try to keep the bag's polyethylene around the board nicely. Otherwise, ugly grooves will remain in the folds, which are then difficult to remove.

First we laminate one side, then turn over and laminate the other.

Is it necessary to vacuum when laminating? Not at all necessary. If you are very careful to remove any air bubbles, then you can simply leave the board to allow the resin to become. Lamination can be done only when the air temperature is below 24 degrees. Otherwise, the resin will be thick and will not impregnate the fiberglass very well, and then it will harden for a very long time. I can cook - add 5 parts of plasticizer and 10 parts of hardener to 100 parts of resin by volume. Do not expose the board to the sun at all - it will immediately be covered with a mass of air bubbles.

8. The next step is to glue the rugs and paint the board. I made the rugs from rubber sheets purchased from the shoe market. Clay bought there. To reduce weight, it is good to punch holes in the rugs.

9. Painting is not difficult. But there are some important nuances. I painted the board with automotive enamel. And when he wanted to paint her with spray paint, she wrinkled. It turned out that the car enamel was alkyd based. Then the non-slip coating had to be made with an alkyd-based yacht varnish. If you decide to paint with acrylic paint, for example from spray cans, then do the non-slip with automotive acrylic varnish.

Making nonslip is reduced to the fact that after applying the varnish, sprinkle with fine "extra" salt. In practice, the surface is rough enough for riding in hydro-shoes, but still slippery for riding barefoot.

In front of the mastrek, a cork made of an aluminum rectangle is glued into the board.

Water tests.

The board was based on the industrial board Starboard Hypersonic, but the shape was slightly altered. As a result, it turned out:

Tests on the Dnieper, the Azov Sea and the Black Sea have shown that the board behaves quite well. It goes on a wave gently and is very pleasant on the move. Oche is resistant. It is easy to get onto the glider.

The fin was made homemade, but in the end they bought a herbal 32 cm powerbox from Boa. With it, the board goes well under sails and 4.5 and 6 m. No spinouts were observed. On the grass passes "like a tank", only a little land.

I can say the following about the shortcomings - the board turned out to be somewhat heavy. It doesn't feel a lot on the water, but loading onto a roof rack feels good. During intensive skiing during the season, I received a mast on the bow several times. There was a leak at the site of the chips. It was eliminated. There were defects on the lower edges, they also flowed. Eliminated - filled with resin. A glued-in plug came in very handy to detect leaks and remove water.

Since this particular board was experimental - an attempt to repeat with modifications a somewhat unusual model with a non-planar bottom and at the same time some of the shape's flaws got out, the exact dimensions are not specifically given. If you want to make a good board, then it is better to rent a model you like, for example, a "taboo rocket" and remove the dimensions from it. In general, as practice has shown, it is worth making either a large board for training or a board with an experimental and unusual shape.

Video tests on water see here.

If the article was interesting, please leave a review.

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howmake.in.ua

After two hours of sailing SUP 10.1 ′ in the waters of the Mediterranean Sea, I got so carried away by this water activity that I decided to buy myself such a board. But before that, learn to stand on it normally, and made a balance board. I practiced a little and gave up. But the heat this summer reminded me of SUP, and after swimming for half an hour in the quarries in Dzerzhinsky on an inflatable 9.5 ′ SUP, I firmly decided to have the same one. But bad luck - they are so long that they will not fit vertically between the floor and the ceiling in the vestibule.

Ve from the board: 9 kg., keel: 0.3 kg., oars: 0.75 kg.
Total: 10 kg., less weight of a similar inflatable SUP board!

I made the board from 5cm foam. and 2.5cm., with a spar 7 × 2cm. from Baikal pine and 3 crossbars 4 × 2 cm. One of the crossbars crosses the spar at the CG where the rider should stand.
The foam board is glued with foam and Titanium, trimmed, skinned, covered with Kraft paper on an aqualak before the drum beat, then covered with organza on an aqualak and covered with 2-3 layers of rubber paint.

Through holes are made in the board for the handle for carrying and for the keel. The keel is made of 6mm aluminum, just like the paddle. Oar handle - 25mm. 2m. aluminum tube for cabinets from Leroy-Merlin. Hole pads are made of 4mm plywood. Plywood is bolted to the spars and crossbars, and to plasterboard plastic screw dowels, screwed-glued into the foam.

Tests in the rain and in the sun have shown excellent board behavior. The board is very stable, keeps its course well due to its large keel and balance due to its width (1m versus 60cm for typical boards). When turning, the board is slightly thrown back to its original position, but this is predictable and counterfeit. When hitting the bottom and underwater obstacles, the keel should protrude upward in the slot, but this does not work yet (it gets stuck).

From mistakes: it would be better not to use paper at all and aqualak too. In those places (holes) where the paper is open even by the edge, water spreads along it. It is also better not to use plywood, or at least to varnish properly. I did not use varnish, because dries for a very long time, and it was also necessary to cover several layers ...

The boat took 2 weeks of leisurely work in the evenings and nights. In principle, it is really possible to cope in a week, if you find some kind of non-aqueous and non-nitro, quick-drying varnish.

Happiness video:

Album: https://fotki.yandex.ru/users/prikupets/album/165390/

Blueprints: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/46atk2ir9...x107x9IWa?dl=0

forum.rcdesign.ru

5 NEW GREAT WATER ENTERTAINMENT !! SURF BOARD WITH WATER JET

3 months ago

★ Automotive Millionaire ★ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCY—X0FBPWEw_XeDC4zYlOQ?sub_confirmation=1 TOP 5 NEW COOLEST WATER ENTERTAINMENT !! SURF BOARD WITH WATER JET. Hello everyone, you are on the Tip Top channel and today we have new water activities that everyone can try and for which you do not need any special skills and abilities. One of these new coolest water activities is Joy diving, Joy diving can be compared to ordinary diving, but instead of a heavy balloon on the back, divers are given an underwater scooter, anyone can handle this scooter. The management of this underwater transport is very simple and does not require any special skills. Another cool water activity is called jet boating.It is Boats with increased strength, custom made, excellent maneuverability and equipped with water cannons. Water cannons, due to their specificity, are more often used where it is dangerous or impossible to use a propeller. In such situations, for example, when operating a boat in rough mountain rivers with shallows and rocky bottom. Another new water fun is the SubWing, which allows you to maneuver underwater by changing the angles of the blades, looking at the depths of the sea. Further, the hydrofoil hydrofoils design resembles a regular surfboard, the main differences are hidden under the water, namely the wing that, when moving, creates a hydrodynamic lift that lifts the board above the water, from the side it seems that the surfer is just hovering above the waves in the air. Jet surf is another water activity that has appeared not so long ago. Jet surfing was invented in 2008 by the Czech Martin Sula, who introduced a water cannon into a surfboard, and now you can cut through the water even without waves. The motorized surfboard is a new water activity that has taken over all surf lovers. Thank you all for your attention) SEE ALSO: —————————————————————————————————— 6 THE EVILEST SMALL DOG ​​BREEDS https: / /www.youtube.com/watch?v=1eH6fs-948o TOP 11 BEST CARS WITH A ROADSTER BODY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjoU4hL7ftI 3 GREAT CHAMPIONS THAT TURNED THE HISTORY OF SPORTS SPORT !! Top Best Record Holders https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uV1Y1CkTJSk 5 GREAT CHAMPIONS WHO TURNED THE HISTORY OF THEIR SPORT !! Top Best Athletes (part 2) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlR5vHOI21E POLICE CARS IN DIFFERENT COUNTRIES OF THE WORLD !! Why Criminals Can't Get Away From Fire https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=73NwjxwRyhw TOP 9 BEST SUV OF ALL TIMES !! MOST PASSED CAR https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-LyDxCpE_4 12 LOGOS OF AUTOMOTIVE COMPANIES WITH HIDDEN MEANING (part 1) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CE68R3L-0i8 7 THE MOST RELIABLE MILLIONNIUM ENGINES !! Resource MASS MOTORS (part 2) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0dyjhcdJS04 8 LEGENDARY JAPANESE CARS FROM 90S THAT DO NOT BREAK https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2993 10 LEGEND LEGEND MILLION MILLION ENGINES !! The Most Reliable MASS MOTORS Top Best Record Holders https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUnsnR27n7w Production Music courtesy of Epidemic Sound! # Top # Top5 # Top5 #TipTop # TypeTop # 5 NEW # COOLEST # WATER # ENTERTAINMENT # surfing #subwing # kitesurfing #hydrofoils #surfing