Liquid nails are a type of construction adhesive intended for joining homogeneous and dissimilar materials and capable of withstanding fairly large loads. This product got its name from the American brand Liquid Nails (translated from English as liquid nails), created back in 1968 by Macco.
In the vastness of the domestic market, the development appeared in the mid-nineties and since then has been indispensable assistant in the professional field. Found liquid nails application in everyday life. True, not knowing how to use liquid nails, you can seriously spoil the treated surfaces.
Therefore, it is necessary to study what the material is and what technology it is to work with. And it will not be superfluous to have information about how to wash liquid nails, if something suddenly went wrong.
The composition of liquid nails
The basis of the "mixture" is rubber of synthetic origin and various polymers.
IN classic version"Product" as a filler is a special clay - with increased plasticity. It is mined in the USA, in the state of Texas. Here, in fact, the key production capacity"local" manufacturers of liquid nails.
A number of developers instead of "wonder clay" use calcium carbonate (speaking in simple words- the most common chalk). According to many experts, this is far from the best effect on strength characteristics products.
Types of liquid nails
Power, adhesion and resistance of liquid nails to external factors is determined, first of all, by their chemical composition.
On this basis, it is customary to distinguish between solvent-based and water-soluble adhesives.
Water-soluble products are made on the basis of polyurethane, PVC or acrylic copolymers. It has good adhesion to many building surfaces, is characterized by fairly high environmental friendliness.
The main disadvantage of water-soluble formulations is intolerance to the freeze-thaw cycle. With it, their foundation is completely destroyed. Before buying, you should pay attention to some restrictions regarding the scope:
- polyurethane-based adhesives are poorly compatible with teflon and polyethylene;
- acrylic and PVA-acrylate compounds are effective only on porous surfaces.
Solvent-soluble liquid nails are based on synthetic rubber. They are stronger, faster than water-soluble, seize, show stability at temperatures below zero. Unfortunately, solvent-based formulations are not without drawbacks.
First, they have a strong unpleasant odor.
Secondly, they are fire hazardous during the application / curing period. It is permissible to work with liquid nails of this type only in well-ventilated areas, away from electric heaters and sources of open flame.
How to glue fiberboard on liquid nails?
If it is decided to use this adhesive for gluing facing material, you must carefully read the instructions, which indicate the basic requirements for operation: ambient temperature, gluing and drying time of the glue.
- The surface must be thoroughly cleaned of dust, from the remnants of the old coating, to give it perfect evenness and cleanliness.
- On the back surface of a light material, glue can be applied pointwise. On a heavier one - with a snake. It is more convenient to do this with a special gun.
- The fiberboard lubricated with glue is pressed tightly against the wall and held in this position for several seconds.
- The time of complete polymerization of liquid nails can be a whole day. At this time, do not expose the fresh coating to physical stress.
Subtleties of choice
All recommendations for the appointment and consumption of liquid nails can be found in the instructions on the package. But, imagine, you came to the store, and there are dozens of their varieties. Reading everything is not an easy task. What to do? Especially considering that sales assistants are not always competent - not only in small shops, but also in large building markets.
Of course, pre-study the necessary information.
Quite often, customers are offered to purchase a universal glue on a neoprene basis - “Moment Installation is extra strong” (Henkel). It is a really good choice for holding heavy veneers such as metal siding, natural stone, wood, etc.
But if you need to glue foam materials, such as polystyrene, this option will not work. The best liquid nails in this case are "Installation Moment Super Strong" on water based(Please note that they are not suitable for gluing Teflon, polypropylene and polyethylene!).
Macco's LN601 neoprene based adhesive is designed exclusively for internal works. Nevertheless, it is universal, since it will glue any panels to the wall with high quality and reliability - plywood, drywall, wood, chipboard, plastic and metal moldings. Unfortunately, LN601 is not suitable for bathroom tiling and mirror installation.
Chipboards (chipboards) are made from sawdust, shavings and low-value wood by mixing them with formaldehyde resin and pressing. Apart from affordable price Chipboard sheets have good moisture resistance, sound and heat insulation, as well as increased strength if they are glued together in several layers.
In this article, we will talk about how and with what to glue chipboard between themselves and other materials.
How to glue chipboard (glue review)
- PVA Furniture Suite. It is often used in the woodworking industry and in jobs where it is necessary to achieve strong bonding of parts subjected to high dynamic loads. Developed on the basis of water dispersion, gives a strong fastening. This glue is effective when connecting all types of wood with each other, including chipboard, and with other materials. Cost: 119 rubles per 900 ml.
- Moment Carpenter. Reliable goods from the German manufacturer HENKEL. Moisture and heat resistant, high-strength and fast-setting adhesive designed for use during the repair and assembly of furniture made of chipboard, all types of wood, laminate, veneer and many other materials. Gives a transparent glue line. Cost: 124 rubles for 250 ml.
- Krass PVA D3. Special waterproof adhesive for all types of wood, chipboard, fiberboard, veneer, plywood. It is suitable for gardening kitchen furniture, doors, windows and bathroom furniture. Does not contain organic solvents. After drying, it leaves a transparent glue line. Cost: 125 rubles per 200 ml.
VIDEO INSTRUCTION
What glue can not be used for chipboard
Never use modified PVA furniture or Titebond wood glue. Such types of glue are characterized by excessive capillary properties. They create voids inside uneven chipboard sheets, and this is fraught with poor bonding of materials.
An example of work - we glue a chipboard tabletop
Chipboard is often used to make kitchen worktops. Let's analyze the order of work.
For work you will need:
- Chipboard sheets;
- Sheet plastic;
- Furniture stapler;
- Scissors;
- Roulette;
- sealant;
- Manual frezer;
- Screwdriver;
- Electric jigsaw;
- Level;
- Hammer with rubber tip.
For the manufacture of countertops with a thickness of 28 millimeters or more, as a rule, several thin sheets of chipboard are glued together:
- Before gluing, degrease the surfaces of the boards with isopropyl alcohol;
- Apply glue evenly with a roller or spatula;
- Plates should be pressed under a pressure of 50-80 N/cm2 at a temperature not exceeding 30 degrees Celsius. Keep under pressure for 8 minutes. After that, the plates are stacked and kept under a pressure of 1500 N/cm2 during the day.
If you have a chipboard countertop ready and you just need to glue a few boards together:
- To create an invisible seam for joining countertops, it is necessary to mill the panel;
- Make nests for lamellas and recesses for coupling parts in it;
- Clean the end of the countertop with sandpaper, degrease it and grease it evenly with glue;
- Insert lamellas and spikes into it for further assembly;
- Do the same with the other glued tabletop;
- Firmly press the panels to each other with the end sides so that glue comes out of the seam;
- Fix them with a clamp for 30-50 minutes until the glue hardens;
- Then sand the seam between the panels so that it is invisible.
- To complete the table top, add end, corner and connecting strips to it, as well as front and side profiles.
All these details protect the countertop from mechanical damage, moisture and dirt. If the countertop is adjacent to the wall, you can glue a special skirting board that seals the joint and prevents debris from entering the cracks.
To securely fasten chipboard sheets for making furniture, glue must be applied in large quantities. Because of this, it very often protrudes from the seams and falls on the slabs.
- If the glue has not yet dried, it can be easily removed with a damp cloth.
- If it is dry, you can try to pry off the adhesive film and carefully remove it from the surface.
- Chipboard can also be treated with a special nail polish remover. Painted plates are well cleaned with sunflower oil.
- Even in stores, wax-based polishes are sold, which perfectly clean the surface and make it shiny.
Working with DVP is quite simple. The material of the original dimensions can be easily "cut" to the desired parameters, quickly transported from one place to another. It sticks on easily too. The main thing is that the glue is of high quality.
The adhesive composition should be selected taking into account the properties of the surfaces to be joined.
Consider possible options from simple to complex.
For paper and cardboard
Porous, highly absorbent paper willingly combines with almost any building material. "PVA" or "Super-PVA" of any bona fide company is quite suitable for you. Spend no more than 50 rubles. If the paper is greasy, not new, take a stronger product. For example, universal "Moments".
How to glue fiberboard sheets
tree to tree
The work of fastening fiberboard with a board or other plate will be freely performed by the universal Moment-Joiner (220 rubles for 750 g). This is a water-dispersion composition, which includes a PVA dispersion and a plasticizer. The color of the mixture imitates wood.
The effect is enough reliable connection achieved in 5-10 minutes, but it is still desirable not to disturb the junction during the day. "Joiner", by the way, also grabs the fabric well.
If the area is large, buy industrial glue. Common brands:
- Titebond Wood Glue;
- Ultimate Wood Glue;
- Franklin Multibond.
They are sold in large containers. The purchase will hurt your pocket. For example, Titebond Transparent Premium Wood Glue 18 l. costs 4260 rubles.
Cork, plexiglass, metal, stone
We need a strong team here. It is best to prefer strong epoxy adhesives. True, keep in mind that they are the most useful for health. It is not necessary to smear them from the whole breadth of the soul, but it is quite possible to connect small planes.
To name a few good brands:
- EDP - inexpensive, costs about 50 rubles. for 150 g;
- Krass - more expensive pleasure, 140 rubles. for 50 ml;
- "Novbytkhim Superhook" - 70 rubles. for 100 ml.
Advice: in order to facilitate your work, try to lightly clean the glossy surface of the sheet with sandpaper. Be careful during work - wear rubber gloves, do not bring glue to sources of direct fire. Glues do not like hard frost, so in winter do not open the windows at the moment of a responsible procedure.
To learn more:
wood glue
Laminated fiberboard: application in decoration
Finishing work in the repair, perhaps the most important. Your apartment may have perfectly prepared walls, but a crooked finish can nullify all the efforts of the craftsmen. And vice versa - even the most clumsy walls can be masked by finishing with laminated fiberboard.
What to choose from?
Laminated fiberboard appeared on the construction markets relatively recently. A huge variety of wall fiberboard panels is divided into three types:
- Type-setting rack(“under the lining”), 10-30 cm wide, 2.5-6 m long and 8 to 25 mm thick, are equipped with a tongue and groove system, which allows you to mount the panels on the wall easily and quickly.
The fastening of such panels is carried out using special clamps or brackets;
- Tiled are distinguished by a wide variety of fiberboard sheet sizes (30×30 cm, 30×60 cm, 15×60 cm, 49×98 cm, 98×98 cm), which makes it possible to create incredible patterns on the walls by combining panels different sizes and colours. Tiled fiberboard panels for walls are attached in the same way as typesetting;
- leafy outwardly resemble the usual sheets of hardboard. Sheet panels have a wide range of sizes (49×130 cm, 98×128 cm, 98×260 cm, 100×130 cm, 100×200 cm, 100×260 cm, 122×244 cm, 260×490 cm) and various colors , from plain to 3D. fasteners sheet panels produced different ways, depending on the condition of the walls.
In addition, laminated panels are divided into moisture resistant and non-moisture resistant, this aspect should be taken into account when choosing a material for finishing, say, a kitchen or bathroom.
Material Features
Structure of the fiberboard panel
Fiberboard manufacturers claim that their products are strikingly different from the good old Soviet chipboard, despite similar manufacturing principles. In fact, these differences are noticeable to the naked eye, you should pay attention to the edge: the fiberboard panel is uniformly dense and consists of very small chips, more precisely, compressed wood fibers. The fibers are pre-moistened, mixed with special resins and pressed at high temperature. The slabs are then cut to the right sizes, a laminated coating of any color and texture is applied to the surface. Front side DVP can be framed as traditional options(wood, marble, tile, granite and even metal), and fantasy, with bright patterns, mirror inserts, stucco, thematic drawings and reproductions of paintings.
Fiberboard panels for walls are durable, self-tapping screws hold well in them, which makes it possible to mount shelves, frames and lamps on walls made of fiberboard. Of course, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the material and use special dowels such as "umbrella" or "butterfly".
To all kinds wall panels Fiberboard produces the so-called moldings: fittings and accessories that are used to finish joints and mask wall defects. These include fillets, moldings, skirting boards, corners, platbands, finishing elements, plinth strips and other little things that play a big role in shaping a single interior style.
Fixing sheets to walls
Method for gluing fiberboard panels
Depending on the condition of the walls, finishing with laminated panels can be done in several ways:
- On the adhesive compositions if the wall is perfectly flat, there are no large temperature and humidity fluctuations in the room, and the panels themselves are not too thick;
- Using self-tapping screws directly to the wall;
- Using self-tapping screws, screwing them to the crate, wooden or plastic;
- Clamps (plastic or metal) to the crate.
How to fix fiberboard wall panels, everyone decides for himself.
If you decide to mount fiberboard directly on the wall, you will have to pre-level and prime the walls. Starting at the corner, leveling off the plumb line, glue the first sheet, then glue the next one, snap it into the lock first and also glue it to the wall. Don't want to mess around with glue? Use nails or self-tapping screws, but remember that the caps will be visible. You can beat this shortcoming and attach the panels with nails with decorative caps.
On walls made of wood and sip panels, fiberboard is attached directly. On brick and concrete walls, you will first have to mark, drill holes and drive in corks, into which screws are then screwed or nails are driven in to fasten the panels.
But most often you have to build a crate and only then fix the panels. In this way, even the most hopeless wall can be leveled, while losing a few centimeters of space and gaining the ability to lay communications, sound and heat insulation materials.
The crate is mounted from wood or special plastic profile. Fastening to the crate is carried out using glue, self-tapping screws or clamps (special clamps that are purchased with the panels). The crate is installed strictly according to the level and plumb, with a step of no more than 30 cm. After mounting the crate, attach the sheets in any way and install the molding.
The video shows an example of mounting fiberboard sheets on the wall in the bathroom.
Laminated fiberboard truly opens endless possibilities for fantasy and design delights, while allowing you to significantly save on finishing works Oh.
Installation of wood fiber boards (DVP) on the ceiling
Wood fiber boards - universal material, which has a wide range of applications. One of them is the installation of a fiberboard ceiling. Home distinctive feature of such a design will be its cost at sufficiently good performance characteristics. The material itself is inexpensive, and if you also mount it yourself with your own hands, you can significantly save on repairs. And about how best to sheathe a fiberboard ceiling, you will learn from this article.
Advantages of fiberboard ceilings
- Moisture resistance: given material can be used in rooms where high humidity is constantly observed (for example, a toilet, bathroom or kitchen).
- Heat and sound insulation: very often fiberboards are used as insulating material, so such a ceiling will not only keep the heat in the house, but also protect from external noise.
- Environmental friendliness: modern slabs are safe, they can be used for decoration in residential premises (although there are more natural materials such as gypsum boards).
- Material cost: Fiberboard is very inexpensive, so anyone can buy it.
- Vapor permeability: such a surface passes air well, facilitating its circulation inside the room
- Service life: the ceiling of wood fiber boards will last a long time, since the material itself is quite durable.
- Weight: this material is lightweight, so the fiberboard ceiling will practically not create additional load to the main cover.
Disadvantages of fiberboard ceilings
- Moisture resistance: While fiberboard can be used to mount a ceiling in a bathroom or toilet, it will not withstand direct exposure to water. Therefore, when flooding from above (for example, a roof leak), the ceiling surface will be damaged and it will have to be re-paved.
- Environmental friendliness: this item refers to old fibreboard, bought a long time ago and stored somewhere in your garage or in the pantry in the country. They are highly discouraged, since earlier, at the stage of manufacturing the material for gluing fibers, not entirely safe substances were used, which eventually released into the surrounding space. Therefore, after finishing the surface with such plates, the room will have a specific and very bad smell. Now technology fiberboard manufacturing has changed a lot, and such harmful components in modern materials no longer available, so they can be safely used in residential areas.
- Design: a ceiling finished only with fiberboard is unlikely to suit anyone, therefore it serves to form an inner layer that levels the surface, on top of which a decorative ceiling coating will be applied (for example, from plastic tiles, wallpaper, paint or other finishing materials).
- Labor intensity: despite the fact that the material itself is very light and it will not be difficult to lift it, it will be quite difficult to sheathe the ceiling with it alone. The sheets are very flexible, so during installation they must not only be aligned with other ceiling elements, but also constantly ensure that they do not sag, otherwise the surface will eventually turn out to be undulating.
And about how to avoid all this, and get flat ceiling from fiberboard, we will consider later in the article.
Fiberboard ceiling cladding technology
1. Preparatory work
All surface preparation work will depend on the method of installation of fiberboard. But in any case, old finishes such as ceiling tiles, panels or wallpaper must be completely removed. If there are stains of mold, rust or grease on the ceiling, they should be removed accordingly with an antiseptic, blue vitriol or soapy water.
As a rule, fibreboards are mounted on wooden crate. With this installation method, there are no more preparatory work is not required, and therefore you can safely proceed to point 2.
But since the plates are lightweight, they can be glued to the base of the ceiling. In this case, you should do a series additional work, namely:
- First, carefully check the level of the entire surface. In case of detection of large drops and large cracks, they need to be repaired, for example, with a putty solution.
- secondly, be sure to prime the base of the ceiling to ensure better adhesion of the adhesive to the surface.
Only after carrying out these works, you can proceed to the next stage.
2. Marking the ceiling. Frame installation
Further work is related to the choice of a specific option for installing the frame. As a rule, for a fiberboard ceiling, a wooden crate is formed from bars. It is great for dry rooms, and the work to create it is not difficult and less costly than other frame options. The only disadvantage of this type of crate is the inadmissibility of its installation in wet rooms, since the bars in such rooms will periodically change their dimensions, which will lead to deformation of the entire ceiling.
In these cases, metal profiles should be used that are attached to the ceiling surface. Such a frame can be mounted in any room. True, profiles are somewhat more expensive than wooden bars.
Having chosen the most suitable installation option, having made the required markup and installing the frame, you can proceed to the ceiling sheathing with fiberboards.
3. Installation of fiberboard
Before installation, the plates must be left in the room for 24-48 hours so that they "get used" to the temperature and humidity conditions of the room. After that, you can start trimming. fiberboard ceiling. This work is best done together, but if the partner is not nearby, then you need to be patient, since the material itself weighs a little, and it will not be difficult to lift it alone.
3.1. Method 1: installation on the frame
First, the sheet is brought to the surface of the ceiling and leveled so that the edges of the fiberboard fall exactly in the middle of the bar or profile.
Nails or self-tapping screws with a diameter of at least 5 mm are usually used as fasteners. Their length should be about 25-32 mm. Fiberboard is fastened in increments of 20-30 cm along the edges of the sheet and 30-40 cm in the middle. Wherein minimum distance fasteners from the edge should be 1.2-1.5 cm, otherwise the plate may crack when hammered.
It is most convenient to mount the sheet to the ceiling as follows. The plate is first nailed in the corners and in the middle, and then in all other places. But in this case, you need to constantly ensure that fiberboard does not sag anywhere, as this is a very flexible material.
The rest of the sheets are installed in the same way. The joint of the plate is placed in the middle of the profile or bar, and then attached to it with self-tapping screws or nails. In this case, we should provide a small gap ( expansion joint) in 2-3 mm between adjacent sheets.
As a rule, during the installation process, some plates will need to be cut. For this you can use regular saw with fine teeth or a jigsaw.
3.2. Method 2: sticker fiberboard
The option of installing fiberboard to the ceiling with glue is good in that in this case it is much less likely that the sheets will sag somewhere, since almost the entire surface of the material will be attached to the base of the ceiling.
The technology of work is as follows: to begin with, the sheet should be cut into 2-3 parts. Next on inside Fiberboard is applied with glue and leveled with a notched trowel. Then the plate is brought to the surface of the ceiling and tightly fastened to it. After that, it is recommended to support the glued sheet with your hands for about 1-2 minutes, so that the glue finally grabs the base.
If fiberboard is glued to wooden ceiling, then for greater strength and reliability of the structure, all sheets can still be fastened to the base with nails or self-tapping screws.
4.
How to glue fiberboard on liquid nails?
Finishing work
At the end installation work you can proceed to applying the finishing coating (for example, stick pvc tiles), for which fibreboard will serve as an excellent base. But these are the topics of other articles, you can also find them on our website.
If for some reason you do not begin to lay a decorative layer on top of the fiberboard, then the joints between the plates on the ceiling can be hidden either by filling the seams or by installing ordinary wooden slats. On this, the finish of the fiberboard ceiling can be considered finished.
Tiles and natural wood - these finishing materials have been used by mankind for wall decoration for more than one hundred years. They are good for everyone, only laying ceramic tiles is a very long process, and natural wood is afraid of wet vapors, from which it swells and warps. What if you need it quickly and well? Let's look at modern alternative options. Are you familiar with, for example, decorative fiberboard wall panels?
Fiberboard wall panels - what is it?
Fibreboard is a material familiar to many. It is produced on the basis of wood waste, with the addition of various ingredients. Depending on the manufacturing technology, fiberboard can be hard and soft, but differ only in properties, and outwardly both varieties resemble sheets of pressed cardboard. Not very aesthetically pleasing, is it? But decorative panels for wall decoration, made on the basis of fibreboard, are similar to their progenitor, like Cinderella to a beautiful princess: the essence is one, but the surroundings are radically different.
Rigid panels
Decorative panels based on hard grades of fiberboard perfectly resist abrasion and various mechanical damage. That is why they are great for finishing work in the hallway, toilet, balcony. Especially appreciated positive traits summer residents of this material: inexpensive, durable, diverse in appearance - it is able to decorate the interior of any garden house and country cottage.
Several color options for fiberboard panels
Fiberboard panels have proven themselves well, the decorative part of which is made of polymer film. Such a wall covering protects them so well from moisture that it allows not only to wipe, but also to wash the fiberboard surface using detergents(even containing chlorine). But it should still be protected from direct water ingress, so this finish is still not recommended for bathroom or shower walls.
In addition to moisture resistance, the laminate has one more plus. Using it for decoration, you can be sure that even after a while your walls will not fade and retain their presentable appearance, because laminated surfaces indifferent to ultraviolet radiation.
Depending on your preference, you can choose between a matte, glossy, or even textured finish that mimics the embossing of wood fibers, the porosity of natural cork, or the roughness of pebbles. By the way, it is precisely such stylized photo images “under natural stone” or “wood look” and are the most commonly found in the colors of rigid wall panels. There is also a subspecies of the so-called rack panels, which in their appearance are practically indistinguishable from a real wooden lining.
Followers of the "country" and "classic" style in the interior will undoubtedly appreciate the fiberboard decorated with veneer (the thinnest sheets natural wood). Such decoration will give any room, whether it be an office or a library, a touch of respectability and solidity, and this at a fairly affordable price.
Soft panels
Despite the name, these wall panels are visually similar to their solid modification, the difference is only in the production method and the functional properties of the finished product.
Room decorated with fiberboard wall panels
They are made only from wood. conifers, pressing method at high temperature and pressure. At the same time, the only binder in the slab is natural lignin, a polymeric substance contained in resinous tree sap. That is why soft fiber boards are a more environmentally friendly building material than their counterpart - hardboard.
Due to its high porosity, soft fiberboard has unsurpassed heat and sound insulating properties.
Using such panels for wall decoration in an apartment, you will not be afraid that you will be disturbed by extraneous noise. Yes, and the comfort of housing will increase by an order of magnitude, because a slab of soft fiberboard 12 mm thick is commensurate in its properties with wooden board 45 mm thick.
The decorative layer of soft panels for walls can be made of a variety of materials:
- do you like wallpapers? Choose wall panels in which the decorative layer is finished with a vinyl coating with a variety of patterns;
- do you prefer fabrics? You can purchase sheets covered with linen matting or a layer of natural reed;
- Do you want to install panels in the kitchen? Give preference to species that have decorative surface Made from waterproof acrylic.
At the same time, the range of prints is extremely large: from imitation of ceramic tiles and bricks to a surface made in a shabby chic or vintage style. Therefore, no matter what style of decoration of your home you choose, you can always find decorative coating that suits your taste.
One of the most well-known manufacturers wall panels made of soft fiberboard is the Izotex company.
The products manufactured by it are distinguished by one feature: in order to make them easy and simple to mount, a thorn-groove connection is made on the sides.
That is why, if you have at least minimal building skills and a great desire, it is easy to install such panels with your own hands, especially since you can purchase all the materials and tools necessary for this in specialized stores:
- special adhesives with which you can fasten the panels directly to the wall;
- glue gun for applying glue;
- staples for attaching decorative sheets to the crate;
- staple gun;
- knife for cutting material.
How to fix wall fiberboard panels
You are incredibly lucky, and the walls in the room are even.
How to glue a sheet of fiberboard to the wall?
In this case, you can fasten the sheets directly to them using quick-setting glue of special brands, "liquid nails" or self-tapping screws.
Fastening panels - glue is applied to the wall
If the curvature of the walls does not allow doing this, you will have to use a crate made of wooden beam or mounting profile and only then fix the fiberboard panels.
This method is more expensive and time consuming, but, if necessary, if you use special fasteners (clamps), it allows you to dismantle the material and use it for wall decoration again.
The joints obtained during the installation of thorn-groove joints are practically not noticeable. If you want to finish the joints in contrast, you can purchase the so-called "joint" - a special tape with which individual plates are connected to each other.
Stages of fastening fiberboard panels to the crate
Various other accessories are also sold in specialized stores, allowing you to make the result of your work on wall decoration as solid as possible - ceiling cornices, plinths, corners and even columns. All these details will help to disguise the junctions of the plates with the ceiling, floor or with each other. fasten decorative elements you can use the same "liquid nails", because they are made of light plastic or polyurethane foam.
If you use fiberboard wall panels as a finish, then you will only have to finish the apartment again when the interior gets bored, as manufacturers provide a guarantee for fiberboard wall panels for a period of 10 to 20 years.
For more information about the types and installation of wall panels, see the video below:
You might be interested to know
CMC adhesive for wallpaper
To date, carboxymethyl cellulose, or CMC, adhesives are still among the oldest but most reliable wallpaper adhesives. The reason for this popularity lies in the fact that carboxymethylcellulose does not have a coagulation temperature. This means that when dissolved in water high temperature it does not give precipitation and does not stray into clods. In other words, it is possible to prepare glue on this basis using water of almost any temperature. Understanding the wide range of CMC adhesives available on the market is not easy, because their range is constantly changing and replenishing. In this regard, there is a danger of stumbling upon low-quality goods from unscrupulous manufacturers and suppliers. To avoid this to the maximum, we bring to your attention a few simple rules that you should always adhere to.
The most important point is the appearance of the CMC glue, it should be a powder white color. In this case, it will never let you down and will perform its function perfectly, it will dissolve in water in a matter of minutes and will not form any lumps.
If you find some shavings instead of white powder in the box yellow color, then here we can say with confidence that you have turned your attention to low-quality products. Such a mixture poses the greatest danger for paper wallpaper, because the resulting glue from such chips easily seeps through the paper web and subsequently spoils the whole appearance of this yellowness. Plus, it is highly soluble in water. We categorically do not advise you to use domestic glue for imported wallpapers, since the consequences of such a tandem can be sad: there is a negative experience when the wallpaper even changed color, while spoiling the overall color scheme. Such miscalculations can be easily avoided if you purchase glue from popular and trusted brands, such as, for example, Quelyd (France), Dufa Tapetenkleister (Germany), TD 2000 (Great Britain), Papa (Germany). Perfect option- this is the use of glue of the same brand as the wallpaper.
Adhesives based on carboxymethyl cellulose differ from others not only in quality, but also in purpose. There is wallpaper paste varying degrees severity, namely: for light, medium and heavy. What is the difference? The answer is simple - the concentration of carboxymethyl cellulose, which, at high rates, gives the adhesive a greater viscosity. This feature is very important when working with heavy wallpaper, because a simple adhesive, having a low degree of viscosity, will not be able to grasp with the necessary force, and the consequences of such wallpapering the walls are quite clear. Remember the following rule: the thicker the wallpaper, the thicker the glue is taken to work with it.
Particular attention should be paid to rooms with high humidity. To prevent the process of decay, which is inevitable in this case, you should use CMC glue, which incorporates special antiseptic substances.
The next type of wallpaper adhesive is vinyl adhesive. It is simply designed for gluing vinyl, fabric, foam and embossed wallpapers. It is worth noting the easy process of working with him. Wallpapers with vinyl adhesive applied to them glide perfectly on the surface, which means that they are very easy to align and dock. If necessary, if the glue has not dried yet, the wallpaper can be separated from the surface and re-glued without re-applying the glue.
As for the technology of dissolving dry wallpaper adhesives, there is no difference. Water at a temperature of 25 degrees is poured into a prepared plastic bucket or an enameled basin (as it suits you). A stick is taken and a kind of whirlpool is created, in the middle of which the dry mixture is poured with constant stirring. For complete readiness for use, the glue is enough to let it brew either for three minutes or for several hours. You can see the cooking time on the packaging.
There are several methods for applying glue to a surface. You can smear it directly on the canvas and immediately glue it. This method usually used for the lungs paper wallpaper. Another way is to apply glue to the surface, wait a while for it to soak into the base, and then apply another layer. In order not to puzzle over which method is better and more practical, carefully read the instructions for use, which are mandatory on all packages.
Next, let's talk about dispersion glue. It is indispensable in working with velor, vinyl, textile wallpaper, as well as glass. What is its fundamental difference from other varieties of wallpaper adhesives? We answer: it stands out from the background of simple adhesives with increased strength, and if at some point you want to tear off the wallpaper pasted on this adhesive from the wall, then you will have to make an effort. In addition to strength, it has another advantage, namely: this species The glue is moisture resistant, which means it can withstand high humidity. However, there is a recommendation not to use it in the bathroom.
Unlike simple dry wallpaper glue, dispersion glue comes to store shelves already in finished form. It can be applied not to the wallpaper, but to the prepared surface to be trimmed. The drying time of this adhesive is approximately 12 hours.
Liquid Nails
This name should not be taken literally, because it is unlikely to be imagined. In fact, this combination means an adhesive based on an aqueous dispersion of acrylic copolymers. It was created specifically for the uncomplicated and quick installation without using nails. What is the scope of liquid nails? It turns out that with the help of them you can glue finishing materials made of various materials: wood, fiberboard, chipboard, drywall, cardboard, cork and more. Ceramics and metal are also on the list. In general, it turns out that this glue is a universal glue, the purpose of which is to stick different kind finishing materials to various surfaces, and glue them together.
Liquid nails should be applied to a clean, dry surface, always fat-free. But it is necessary to apply not in a continuous layer, but in dots (in the case of a light material) or waves (if the material is heavy). The drying period of this adhesive varies from 12 to 24 hours and directly depends on the thickness of the applied layer, room humidity and temperature.
Adhesive based on latex
This type of glue is characterized by its versatility and scope, which includes almost all types of interior finishing work. It is used in working with parquet, linoleum, ceramic and tile tiles. In general, it is easier to list where it does not help. As for the method of application, there are no difficulties, therefore we act according to the worked out scheme: we clean the desired surface from dirt, degrease it and put thin layer glue. After that, we attach the material we want to the glue. From half an hour to an hour - this is the setting time for a latex-based adhesive.
How to glue ceramic tiles
Do you want to glue ceramic tiles- this is a simple matter, especially with our recommendations. So, ceramic tiles can be glued to the surface on the simplest cement mortar, or on an adhesive mortar on cement base, or on a special kind of mastic. If we take into account the cost of materials, then you will pay much less money for cement-based glue than for mastic. Hence the explanation for its popularity. The scope of this type of glue is as follows: it is possible to fix not only ceramic and tiles, but also tiles made of artificial and natural stone. Moreover, the size of the finishing material can be large and even have a strongly pronounced relief surface on the reverse side.
First of all, a thin layer of glue is applied to the surface prepared in advance and it is leveled. Then they put another layer on which the finishing material will hold (in our case, tiles). Such a layer cake is necessary in order to obtain the greatest adhesion of the adhesive to the surface. The drying time of the adhesive is 24 hours, and after 48 hours it will reach its maximum degree of strength.
A mastic based on sodium silicate is applied to the surface a little differently. Smooth surface covered with one thin layer of this mastic, approximately 0.5-1 mm. When uneven surface mastic is applied in a layer in order to level the surface. After this manipulation, we lay the tile. The hardening time of this material takes three hours. The final drying can only be said after five to six days.
It also happens that during the repair and construction work it is necessary to glue the tree. In this case, you should pay attention to PVA glue - an adhesive based on an aqueous dispersion of polyvinyl acetate. It is so good that it will glue any tree almost tightly. PVA boasts of being able to handle a burst pressure of approximately 100 kg per square centimeter.
There are several types of PVA glue:
PVA-P - it is universal in that it can be used to glue plywood, veneer, pieces of wood, fiberboard and chipboard.
PVA-M - this glue is used when working with wood, veneer and chipboard.
PVA-T - glue is able to glue not only wood, but is also used as an additive in cement mortars, because it contributes to a better setting with the surface. The drying time of this type of glue is an hour and a half.
Of course, not only those adhesives that we talked about are used in construction. There are many more. More detailed information can be obtained from specialists who are available in a well-established repair and construction company.
Glue is used to glue wood parts together. The method of thin-layer gluing is used, that is, the glue is applied in a thin layer, and is a thin layer between the wooden parts. The strength is comparable to the strength of wood, and the fine texture does not differ much from the texture of wood.
They differ in composition:
Glue for wood based on PVA. The most common type of glue for gluing together parts made of wood, chipboard, plywood, OSB (OSB), fiberboard. Forms a strong and thin film, penetrates into the wood structure to a small depth. Ideal for bonding lamellas together natural wood to create prefabricated shields big size. They do not have a strong odor, set quickly, and are suitable for domestic use. Produced in the form liquid composition white or cream color, applied with a roller or brush.
Two-component adhesives, based on polyurethane or synthetic, used for gluing block parquet And parquet boards on bases covered with plywood. They have increased strength and wear resistance. They are prepared for use by mixing the base and hardener together. It is a paste, applied with a comb with a tooth of 2-4 mm or a roller.
Alcohol-based adhesive, one-component, used for gluing plywood, piece parquet, parquet boards on various solid substrates. Recommended for gluing plywood on cement floors before laying parquet. It is produced in the form of a thick paste, hardens from the evaporation of the solvent (alcohols), applied with a comb with a tooth of 5-8 mm. Has a specific smell.