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Insulation materials for walls. Noise insulation of walls in an apartment modern materials: types and self-assembly

The problem of insulation outside and inside a dwelling is acute in any climatic zone. The main task is to choose the right thermal insulation material. And this is not as easy as it seems. It is necessary to know such properties of insulation as thermal conductivity, water absorption, strength, service life, as well as the subtleties of installation.

The process of warming usually affects all structures of a dwelling - walls, floor, ceiling. External insulation or combined insulation (inside + from the street side) is preferable. Thermal insulation only from the inside of the dwelling is undesirable, since the dew point will move even deeper into the wall or move to the border of the wall and insulation.

Thus, it is not enough to optimally select a heat-insulating material; it is necessary to carry out its installation correctly.

Important. The stove (inside) and chimney (outside) also need insulation. If this is not done, the walls close to the stove will crack. An uninsulated chimney is covered with condensate inside, which, mixing with exhaust gases, turns into acid. It quickly corrodes the walls of the chimney, rendering it unusable.

What are the heaters

Modern thermal insulation materials are diverse. In private housing construction, along with high-tech insulation (polyurethane foam, penoizol), natural insulation is still used. This is due to their availability and low cost.

The following thermal insulation materials are used internally and externally to insulate walls, ceilings and floors:

  • expanded clay (concrete attic and interfloor floors are insulated with this material from the inside, expanded clay is also poured into the cavity between the walls);
  • cork (wall and floor insulation from the inside);
  • ecowool (walls, floors, attic - it is preferable to insulate from the inside because of such a material property as hygroscopicity);
  • mineral wool (walls, floors, attic floors - suitable for insulation both inside and outside);
  • polystyrene (outside walls, concrete screed);
  • penoplex (due to such a property as low water absorption, it is possible to insulate walls from the inside and outside, concrete screed, roofing, interfloor and attic floors);
  • penoizol (walls and floor - it is preferable to insulate from the inside, the property of penoizol to absorb water well requires accuracy when insulating outside);
  • polyurethane foam (any surface, including metal and plastic pipes for hot and cold water supply - insulation inside and outside).




Mineral wool belongs to non-combustible heaters, therefore it is used for thermal insulation of stoves and chimneys.

Thermal insulation materials for walls

Wall insulation is best done outside during the construction phase. Wall insulation materials are divided into natural and artificial. There is also a subdivision for bulk, plate / matt, roll and foil roll.

Natural insulation includes:

  • mats and roll insulation made of hemp and algae (rare and expensive insulation, suitable for wall insulation);
  • clay plaster (adobe);

Artificial thermal insulation materials for walls are:

  • expanded polystyrene (regular and extruded);
  • polyurethane foam (sprayed thermal insulation);
  • penoizol (poured into the cavity);
  • ecowool (cellulose bulk insulation);
  • mineral wool (stone / basalt) in rolls, slabs, mats;
  • thin roll insulation with or without foil.

The characteristics of thermal insulation materials (comparative) can be seen below.

This parameter is measured in W / m * K. The lower the thermal conductivity, the better the material retains heat in the living space.

This parameter is directly related to the density of the insulation. Loose insulation has much lower heat conductivity than solid insulation:

Polyfoam 0.045

Penoplex 0.032

Polyurethane foam 0.019 - 0.035

Penoizol 0.028 - 0.038

Ecowool 0.038 - 0.045

Mineral wool 0.045 - 0.07

Measured in% / day. An important technical characteristic showing the rate at which thermal insulation materials absorb water. A high indicator is not a reason to refuse to use it. Insulation with a high water absorption capacity requires careful two-sided waterproofing.

Comparative characteristics of materials:

Mineral wool 2

Measured in mg / (ppm Pa). The characteristic shows how much the material breathes. All breathable insulation can be used to insulate wooden walls. According to the assurances of experts, the vapor permeability of the insulation is not always useful. Often, complete pore clogging and micro-ventilation are much more effective.

Comparative characteristics of vapor permeability:

Polyfoam 0.018

Polyurethane foam 0.04 - 0.05

Penoizol 0.21 - 0.24

Mineral wool and ecowool 0.3

Durability

This parameter is very important for thermal insulation. If the other characteristics of several heaters coincide, then it is this parameter that tilts the scales in favor of choosing the most durable insulation.

Styrofoam ≤ 13

Penoplex up to 40

Polyurethane foam up to 50

Penoizol up to 75

Ecowool not less than 50

Mineral wool for at least 70 years

After analyzing this data, you can form your own opinion about different heaters and choose the ones that are best suited for your purposes.

Important. Natural thermal insulation materials from hemp and algae have little thermal conductivity, but they absorb water well, which, coupled with the high cost, makes them unpopular for insulating walls from the outside and from the inside.

The exception is expanded clay and cork. The first is poured between the walls in the well masonry and spilled with cement milk. This prevents the material from settling and increases its strength. This insulation for walls is cheap, it is also not a problem to buy it. To reduce the thermal conductivity of insulated walls, you need to mix expanded clay of various fractions.

Cork is excellent thermal insulation. Its properties are such that cold cannot penetrate into an insulated room, and heat cannot escape from it. In addition, it does not absorb water and has an attractive appearance. True, the cost of such insulation is significant, therefore it is more often used for finishing walls with additional thermal insulation properties.

Heaters for the floor

Of the many heaters for thermal insulation of the floor, expanded clay and polystyrene are often used (less often penoplex, since it is significantly more expensive than polystyrene). Also, a cork can be used to insulate the floor (as a substrate for linoleum or carpet, as well as finishing). The properties of this material are unique. It does not absorb water spilled on the floor, perfectly dampens noise, has a velvety texture to the touch. Its surface is never cold.

Expanded clay is used for floor insulation in the attic. It absorbs moisture strongly, so it is necessary to make double-sided waterproofing. Because of this characteristic, it is not recommended to insulate a wooden attic floor with expanded clay (material that has accidentally gained moisture significantly adds weight).

High density foam is ideal for insulating floors in cement screeds. The same can be said about penoplex, although it is more expensive, therefore it is used much less often for floor insulation.

Mineral wool is another insulation that can be used to insulate both the floors between floors and the attic. Due to hygroscopicity, mineral wool needs double-sided waterproofing.

The technology of floor insulation with foam plastic includes several stages:

  1. Substrate preparation (cleaning from debris and dust).
  2. Floor treatment with deep penetration primers.
  3. Laying a waterproofing film (be sure to go to the walls, the joints are glued with construction tape).
  4. The foam is fixed to the floor with glue, the joints are coated with sealant.
  5. Be sure to leave a gap between the walls and the insulation.
  6. A special reinforcing mesh is installed on the insulated floor (it is mounted on racks and is located at a distance of 2.5 - 3 cm above the level of the insulation).
  7. It remains to fill the floor with a self-leveling mixture.


Ceiling heaters

It is possible to insulate the ceiling from the inside only if the height of the room allows it. For these purposes, aerated concrete slabs are well suited. They weigh very little and are easy to attach with a foam board adhesive. The joints are covered with sealant. Additionally, foil-clad insulation can be installed.

Polyfoam and polystyrene foam, as well as mineral wool are used only from the attic side (as described above).

Heat insulating roll materials

Thin rolled polyethylene foam insulation is a weak obstacle to cold air entering the room through micropores and cracks. However, foil roll materials are a great addition to an insulating cake.

Foil thermal insulation (penofol, foilgoizolon) laid on top of any insulation will play a double role - repulsive thermal insulation and waterproofing. In this case, there is no need to purchase separately waterproofing materials.

Advice. Rolled foil insulation is demanding to install. They will not work if, for example, a lining is laid directly on them. A working gap between the foil and the finish is required. Therefore, a lathing with a bar thickness of at least 3 cm is always made on top of rolled foil insulation.

Various types of thermal insulation materials (bulk, roll, slab) allow for the insulation of various surfaces - walls, ceilings, floors. Refractory thermal insulation (non-combustible) is suitable for insulating furnaces (not the furnace itself is insulated, but the nearby walls).

The choice of thermal insulation material is a responsible process. Today, many manufacturers have begun to produce insulation that is capable of performing several functions at once. It not only makes the surface warm, but also provides reliable protection against wind, moisture, steam and corrosion.

Views

If you decide to insulate the walls, then going to the hardware store, you can see that the assortment is wide enough outside. Each of the available heaters differs not only in its thermal insulation qualities. Let's consider the main ones.

Liquid materials

Several years ago, builders actively used solid heat-insulating materials for wall insulation. But not so long ago, new ones with a liquid consistency began to appear on the construction market. In appearance and consistency, such products are similar to paint, which is why they are often called insulating paint.

In the photo, liquid thermal insulation materials for walls

In terms of composition, liquid thermal insulation is presented in the form of small ceramic and glass capsules. They are filled with air or inert gas. The role of the binder is played by acrylic polymers. The finished product is a thick dough.

Rigid materials

For wall insulation, rigid insulation can be used, the installation of which is much easier. They are geometrically correct slabs, thanks to which a perfectly flat surface can be obtained. It is then simply plastering or revetting with various materials. Most of them fit like.

In the photo, there are rigid thermal insulation materials for walls:

Solid insulation does not shrink or wrinkle. Installation of solid insulation does not need crate, frames and other structures. The materials are highly durable, and their service life is more than 50 years.

Warm plaster

Among the advantages of this material are high strength indicators. This suggests that the surface is very difficult to damage, which cannot be said about the previous materials. Warm plaster is a liquid heat insulator. This is nothing more than a cement-sand mortar with the addition of natural and polymer fillers.

In the photo, warm plaster

Thanks to them, it is possible to reduce the thermal conductivity of the original composition. The thermal conductivity of walls with a heat insulator will directly depend on the fillers used. When laying out a thin layer with a thickness of 1-1.5 cm, 50 ml of foam can be replaced. But what it looks like and how warm plaster is used for the facade, you can understand by looking at the photo and information

Gas-filled plastics

This material for thermal insulation of walls is considered one of the most effective. To obtain it, the method of foaming different materials is used. The result of this process is a sheet foam heat insulator.

In the photo, gas-filled plastics

Its installation is notable for its simplicity and convenience. Expanded polystyrene can be safely attributed to the leaders among all produced polystyrene. You can use a heat insulator to insulate walls from the outside. But what and where exactly it is used is described in this article.

Liquid foam

This is another option for liquid insulation. Its name is penoizol. Its filling is realized with the help of hoses between the walls, in the cracks, the formwork at the time of construction. This insulation option belongs to the budget, since its cost is 2 times cheaper compared to other analogues.

In the photo, liquid foam for walls

Liquid foam is able to resist germs, is breathable, does not burn well, and has a long service life. But what kind of liquid thermal insulation for the walls from the inside exists in addition to the above, is described in this

Extruded polystyrene foam

For the manufacture of this material, polystyrene granules are used. They are melted by high temperature. The material is then extruded from the extruder and expanded. This is what gives them.

Pictured is extruded polystyrene foam for walls

Thus, it is possible to obtain a strong, durable and breathable insulation. It has excellent contact with various wall coatings.

Glass wool

This material is a kind of mineral fiber. Glass breakage is used for its manufacture. Glass wool is produced in different densities and thicknesses. If you need thin fiberglass, then you need to choose a material with a thickness of 5 cm. This is enough to replace a brick meter wall.

In the photo, glass wool for the wall

Fiberglass is highly flame retardant and resilient. It is characterized by excellent performance of heat and sound insulation. But when installing fiberglass, you need to take care of your safety by wearing a respirator.

Selection criteria

When choosing a heat-insulating material for insulation of external and internal walls, it is necessary to take into account a number of requirements:

  1. Thermal insulation indicators... The higher this figure, the better the material will retain heat.
  2. The weight... The lighter the heat insulator, the less difficulties arise in the process of its installation.
  3. Vapor permeability... If this indicator is high, then the excess fluid will leave without hindrance.
  4. Flammability... At the same time, the indicators can determine how fire hazardous the material is and whether it poses a threat to the house and its residents.
  5. Ecological cleanliness... By purchasing modern insulation, you can be sure that it consists exclusively of natural raw materials.
  6. Lifetime... It is necessary to pick up insulation that has a long service life so as not to waste extra energy and money on performing repeated work.
  7. Price... And although the price of a heat insulator is indicated by the last criterion, for many it is the most important. Of course, you must understand that the more expensive the material, the higher its technical characteristics.

When working with walls, it is helpful to know how it is different.

Thermal insulation of walls is a demanding job that requires the choice of high-quality insulation. Today, there are enough options on the construction market, each of which has its own technical characteristics and is suitable for wall insulation outside or inside the house.

In the electrician, there is a certain type of coatings that serve insulating purposes. Insulation materials can be used for various purposes: for pipelines, walls and floors, roofs, they are often used in construction, electrical and industrial work.

Types and purpose

Insulating protective materials are used to protect residential and industrial premises from the negative effects of the environment. Their use depends on the type of coating. There are the following types of insulation:

  1. Heat, wind, sound insulation;
  2. Hydro and vapor barrier;
  3. Electrical insulating and vibration insulating materials.

In addition to this classification, there is also a division of coatings depending on their shape. There are liquid, dense and powder options. Let's take a closer look at each of them.

Photo - pipeline insulators

Heat insulating, wind and sound insulating

Heat-insulating or heat-insulating building materials GOST R 52953-2008 are used to reduce heat loss of the ceiling, floor and walls. They can be used for both exterior and interior decoration in order to reduce the thermal conductivity of the building. This property is inherent in them due to the special design, which implies high porosity and density.


Photo - minvata

There are such main types of insulation:



Photo - Arbolit

Despite the fact that organic finishing coatings have many advantages, now they are rarely used for insulating facades, since they have low fire resistance. They are mainly used as insulating materials for gas pipelines, water supply systems and individual water pipes.

Photo - combined membrane film

Windscreens are often equated with heat insulating films, but they serve a slightly different purpose. These panels are represented by film membranes, the main purpose of which is to stop the air flow and prevent it from entering the room. This type of flooring is often used for wooden houses (which have a high level of porosity), to protect the floor and roof from blowing.


Photo - Windproof films

Windproof materials are very similar to vapor barrier materials, and they are represented by polyethylene foam, membrane, diffusion films, for winding which it is necessary to use special soft discs. By the way, the insulation, depending on the material from which it is made, can act as a wind insulator.

Let's consider what are the prices for insulation material VPE Comfort 3 mm Lavsan (roll products):

Town Cost m 2, cu e.
Ekaterinburg 0,5
Irkutsk 0,5
Moscow 0,7
Saint Petersburg (SPb) 0,7
Samara 0,5
Ufa 0,5

In addition to Lavsan, you can also buy insulating protective materials manufactured by TPK Baikal, Yekaterinburg Plant (EZIM) and Global Thermal.

Soundproofing

Soundproofing and soundproofing protect the premises from noise entering the residential building from the outside. They are necessary both in the construction of a private house and in the independent overhaul of an apartment. Modern films are divided into:

  1. Acoustic;
  2. Sound-cushioning.

The key difference between the two is their purpose. Acoustic ones help to improve audibility inside a particular room, and cushion ones eliminate the problem of street noise from cars, etc. Such properties are provided by a certain texture and design of the plates. They can be presented in the form of mineral wool or foam, where, on the one hand, there is a soft structure, and on the other, a hard reflective sheet (for example, aluminum or asbestos-cement). Nowadays, polymer films are also being produced, which have a membrane structure. They are known for the combined properties of a soft inner layer and a porous outer layer, which absorb sound from the room and reflect frequencies from the street.

Steam and waterproofing coatings

These materials are required to protect the structure from water, condensation or chemicals. Most often they are used as roof coverings, since it is this section of the building that is most affected by precipitation. Basically, they are bituminous (i.e., plastic, soft) and are made on the basis of metal shavings, minerals, and various plastics. They can be produced in the following forms:


In addition to roofing, they are also often used for flooring, especially if the building is built on a pillar or pile foundation.


Photo - Vapor barrier film

Video: the use of insulating materials in electrical engineering

Electrical insulating materials

High-temperature electrical insulating films and mastics are designed to protect the current-carrying conductors of electrical wires. They are required to protect against short circuits or wire connections. Heat resistance characteristics:

  1. Y - these are materials from combustible fibrous substances of cotton coating, cellulose, paper, etc. They are not dipped in special protective lubricants, so their maximum heating temperature before ignition is 90 degrees;
  2. Class A is type Y insulation, but pre-impregnated with protective liquids. They are used to work with transformer substations, etc. They are used when heated to 105 °;
  3. E - these are insulators for most of the known wires, devices, etc. These are mainly films, resins of synthetic origin. Needed for the insulation of refrigerators, power cables, power lines, etc. can heat up depending on up to 120 ° C.
  4. Category B is hard coatings made of mica, fiberglass and other organic and combined materials. They can withstand heat up to 130 degrees. Class F is the same organic matter, but treated with protective compounds;
  5. Class C is the newest insulating coatings. They are used by electrical equipment, where the heating of the conductors can reach 180 degrees and higher. They are represented by mica, ceramics, and other solid compounds of organic origin.

Photo - insulation for wires

The production of insulated cables is carried out in almost every major city of the Russian Federation and the CIS countries.

Heat loss, especially in winter, negatively affects the health of apartment residents. 30% of heat is lost through the cracks in window and door openings, and 20% is lost through the floors, mainly on the ground floor, where the heated room is in contact with the ground, if there is no heat insulation layer. Floor insulation makes your life more comfortable: you can walk barefoot on the floor at any time without fear of catching a cold. The warmth in the apartment is maintained thanks to the thermal insulation of the floor. The question arises: "What kind of floor insulation should you choose?"

Today we will tell you about what types of floor insulation exist, what are their advantages and disadvantages. We will introduce you to the criteria for choosing a heat-insulating layer, let you know which of the heaters is better for keeping warm in the house, and how to lay it correctly in a particular room.

Criteria for choosing floor heaters

To choose the right material for floor insulation, you should pay attention to the following criteria.

Insulation should be:


Types of floor insulation

To choose the right thermal insulation material, you need to know what types the industry offers, and what are their advantages and disadvantages.

There are several types of insulation:

  • mineral;
  • polymer;
  • wood-shaving.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay - fired clay in granules.


Despite its advantages, there are also minor disadvantages.

Expanded clay dries for a long time, slowly parting with the absorbed moisture. Expanded clay forms dust, so when working with it, you need to wear a respirator.

The rest of the expanded clay is a convenient and high-quality insulation. Expanded clay insulate walls, floors, roofs of houses.

Polymer heaters for houses

These include:

  1. expanded polystyrene - polystyrene;
  2. polyurethane foam;
  3. foamed polyethylene;
  4. penoizol-liquid foam.

Expanded polystyrene

One of the polymeric floor insulation is expanded polystyrene. It is a foamed plastic mass. Consists of separate cells - granules.

  • It is a durable material that, despite its light weight, can withstand high loads.
  • Due to its low weight, the foam itself creates a minimum load on the walls and foundation.
  • It is moisture resistant, so it can be used in places with high humidity on the balcony.
  • Polyfoam retains heat for a long time, almost without absorbing it. It surpasses many heaters in terms of thermal insulation.
  • When insulating floors, you can get by with a small thickness of foam.
  • The price of expanded polystyrene is low, which is an important advantage of this material and attracts the attention of buyers.

An important disadvantage of polystyrene is that when it burns, it emits harmful substances that are poisonous and dangerous.

Extruded polystyrene foam


Extruded polystyrene foam differs from polystyrene foam in the manufacturing method and characteristics. Polyfoam is obtained by acting on the granules with water vapor. At high temperatures, the cells increase in size and fill the entire mold. In the extruded polystyrene foam, a foam element is added at elevated pressure and temperature, which is extruded through the extruder.

The thermal insulation properties of extruded polystyrene are significantly better than conventional foam. But extruded polystyrene foam has lower vapor permeability. Another disadvantage is its high flammability.

Foamed polyethylene foam


Foamed polyethylene foam is one of the best floor insulation materials. It is obtained by melting polyethylene in a special container with the addition of liquefied gas, which acts as a foamed reagent. On one side of the foamed polyethylene, a foil film is applied that reflects heat. Foil-clad polyethylene is supplied in rolls, sheets, plates.

  • The closedness of the cells contributes to high hygroscopicity. The water resistance of the material allows you to insulate floors and walls in baths, saunas.
  • The material is resilient and elastic, strong: it can withstand a significant load, does not deform.
  • Corrosive acids, alkalis, gasoline and other petroleum products do not affect polyethylene.
  • Laying foil-clad polyethylene is easy and simple by hand, because it is light and thin enough. Foil insulation is designed in such a way that it reflects heat back into the room. It does not transfer heat to the external environment. Therefore, it should be laid with the reflective side up.

Penoizol


Penoizol is a liquid foam.

It is good because it is poured into all cracks and hard-to-reach places.

Insulation is especially necessary when building a house, because it fills all air voids and thus retains heat.

Polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is one of the best floor insulation materials of our time.



Wood-based insulation includes:

  • plywood;
  • cellulose wool;
  • sawdust.

Ecowool

Ecowool is a loose material made from cellulose. It is poured automatically or manually, closing the most inaccessible places. Cotton wool is poured into special pumps, and it passes through thick pipes into the room. Ecowool is not liquid.


The disadvantage of ecowool is its fear of moisture, therefore it is not recommended to use this material in rooms with excessive moisture.

Sawdust materials


By themselves, sawdust is not used for insulation, because it does not meet fire safety requirements. Basically, they use for insulation:

  1. sawdust pellets;
  2. arbolite;
  3. wood blocks.

Wood blocks are sawdust with the addition of copper sulphate and cement.

Sawdust granules are obtained by adding antiseptics to them, due to which they are resistant to the appearance of microorganisms. Sawdust granules have low thermal conductivity, high sound insulation properties.


Arbolit-wood concrete.
It is fire resistant. Has increased strength, can quickly recover its shape after excessive stress. Perfectly absorbs sound waves, retains heat.

Its disadvantage is its low moisture resistance. If you want to make insulation from wood concrete, then the humidity in the apartment should not exceed 75%. A finishing protective layer should be laid on top of the wood concrete.


One of the popular heaters is Cork... This is the best insulation for linoleum, but also the most expensive. Cork fiber is obtained by processing oak wood. The wood is crushed, the particles are glued together by suberin, which is part of the oak. They are steamed and pressed to form cork fibers. The material is completely natural, it does not contain any polymer additives. The material is durable, moisture resistant, lightweight. Due to its structure (it consists of cells, each of which is filled with a gaseous substance) it is considered the best heat insulator.

Cork can be used as a backing and as a stand-alone floor covering.

How to lay insulation on the floor

Different insulation materials need to be installed in different ways.

Mineral wool is laid between the logs. But glass wool should be well insulated so that when it wears out, dust does not get into the apartment. It is very important to leave a ventilation gap.

Ecowool laying


Ecowool is laid mechanically or manually. Small particles of ecowool pass through the hose, and the operator directs the material with the added glue to the wall or floor with air. Sticking. particles of ecowool and create a heat-insulating layer. Cotton wool is applied to the floors by hand, both liquid and dry. She just falls asleep between the lags. A vapor barrier membrane is placed on top, and then wooden floors. The price of insulation with ecowool, together with work, is 2200 per cubic meter in a dry way and 2800 in a wet way.

Laying expanded clay

There are 3 options for laying such insulation as expanded clay:


First you need to sweep the floor, remove construction debris. It is necessary to lay a PVC film or a special vapor barrier layer. Mark the level of the screed. Then glue a 10 cm wide edging tape in order to leave a gap from the walls. Fill the floor with expanded clay, level it with a rule, fill it with a screed on top. It is possible to separate the screed with a waterproofing layer;


Styrofoam laying


Styrofoam is laid and then poured with cement or concrete. This is a floating screed.

Logs are placed under the wooden floors, and foam is laid between them.

The third way to lay the foam is to lay it on a concrete floor, and on top of them are sheets of plywood.

Polyurethane foam application technology


First you need to prepare the base: remove the debris. Unevenness of the base when laying polyurethane foam does not matter. The main thing is that there are no oil stains on the surface, otherwise there will be no reliable adhesion of the insulation to the base at this place. You should pay attention to the moisture content of the floor, it should not exceed 5%. The air temperature must be maintained at least +10 degrees. Polyurethane foam is applied through a special nozzle. Components A and B are mixed and sprayed. The material must be evenly distributed with the help of special equipment over the surface of the base. The specialist himself adjusts the thickness of the polyurethane foam layer. The insulation dries out within 24-48 hours. If the insulation is placed between the wooden logs, then after the material has dried, you can install the topcoat. If polyurethane foam is placed on a concrete base, then a cement-sand screed must be poured on top of it, which will protect the heat-insulating layer.

Today we told you about floor insulation. We revealed the advantages of each of them, reported on the features of their styling. And which one is better is up to you. We hope you make the right choice.


Mineral wool
Expanded polystyrene or penoplex

Gypsum fiber
Cork
Expanded clay
Polyurethane foam
Cellulose wool

  1. Roll materials and plates;
  2. Loose and other materials.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is an excellent heat-insulating material with a lot of positive qualities. Mineral wool is produced in two types - roll insulation for floor and slab.

Loose heaters: varieties and scope

This material is best suited for insulating wooden floors - it fits very well on the base and in the logs.

  • Non-flammability;
  • Long service life;
  • Low strength indicators;

Expanded polystyrene or penoplex

  • Affordable price;

  • Flammability;
  • Fragility;

  • Long service life;
  • Low thermal conductivity.

Among the disadvantages of extruded polystyrene foam can be noted the inability to "breathe" and good flammability, which will not allow you to create a fireproof structure. See also: "What insulation for the floor under linoleum to choose and how to install."

Gypsum fiber

Cork

  • Environmental Safety;
  • Low weight;
  • High strength;
  • Good ductility;

Expanded clay

Polyurethane foam

  • Fast installation;
  • Lack of joints;
  • Excellent elasticity;

Cellulose wool

  • Coating integrity;
  • Low cost;

  • Flammability;
  • Complexity of installation.

Conclusion

Wall insulation inside the house: advantages and disadvantages

You can find quite a few statements against the insulation of the walls of the house inside. Say, with such insulation, problems arise in wet corners, dampness starts in the walls, as a result, fungus and unpleasant odors ... The purpose of this article is to figure out why the listed problems arise and, most importantly, how to avoid them and still insulate the walls at home from the inside. Well, because such insulation has a number of advantages.

Advantages of internal wall insulation

Wall insulation inside the house has the following advantages:

  • you can insulate at any time of the year, regardless of the weather.
  • there is no need to build too high a scaffold (unless, of course, we are talking about the insulation of a residential building, and not some "palace of congresses" :))
  • if you need to insulate not in a private, but in some kind of high-rise building, then for external insulation you need to agree on a project to change the facade. Not to mention the fact that it is expensive in itself - you cannot do without hired specialists. Well, inside my apartment ...

What are the disadvantages of internal wall insulation and how to avoid them?

Internal wall insulation also has disadvantages.

With insulation from the inside, the area of ​​the room decreases

The first minus of house insulation from the inside is that the thickness of the wall will increase inward, due to which the area of ​​the room will decrease.

It will not work at all to avoid this, since the insulation has a thickness in any case. But you can minimize it - if the layer of insulation is not very thick. I am hinting at the choice of insulation with the best thermal insulation properties ... So far, only hinting, and specifically I will say below.

With internal insulation, the indoor microclimate worsens

The second disadvantage: the internal insulation of the house can lead to a deterioration in the indoor climate. This is exactly what all opponents of such insulation are talking about. What is it about?

The wall behind the insulation is cold. Therefore, in winter, water vapor generated in the room, passing through the layers of interior decoration and insulation, condenses on the inner surface of the wall. The result - the wall gradually accumulates moisture, which does not have time to evaporate, which is why on the walls - at temperatures from +10 and above! - a fungus, mold settles, the house smells of dampness, a white coating appears on clothes, furniture, books ... little pleasant.

The described problem can be avoided by avoiding mistakes during construction and choosing the right material for insulation. What are these mistakes and what is the best way to insulate the house inside, read on.

Cold bridges remain when insulated indoors.

The third minus of wall insulation inside the house: at the junctions of the interfloor / attic floors with the outer wall, cold bridges remain, through which heat leaks still occur (orange arrows):

We have this disadvantage only if we did not treat the insulation conscientiously enough: for example, we insulated the walls, but hammered them onto the floors and ceilings. But what does the technology have to do with it if you haven't cooked your own "pot"? To avoid this disadvantage, you need to create an unbreakable thermal insulation loop from the inside of the entire room:

That's all.

How to avoid drawbacks with internal insulation?

So, what tips can you find for smoothing out the minuses of internal insulation? And are all the tips worthwhile?

Advice 1. Between the wall decoration and the insulation, a vapor barrier with one-sided conduction is placed. So it is advised to do when insulated from the inside with mineral wool.

But let's take a look at the picture:

With internal insulation, the dew point shifts to the inner surface of the wall, and the insulation, mineral wool, begins to receive moisture from the wall. And then, after a month or two, an unpleasant smell appears, bacteria begin to develop in the mineral wool ... we do not see this, but we feel the smell, while we cannot understand where it comes from.

But how can it be: after all, there is a vapor barrier, which should not let moisture into the insulation! In theory, this is the case. But in practice, it is not possible to ensure one hundred percent sealing. Why? Let's remember how the vapor barrier and further cladding are attached? They put a profile for drywall, stretch the film ... then screw the drywall, PASSING THE FILM WITH SELF-CUTTERS - and where is the hermetic vapor barrier here? And along the perimeter of the wall, it is not possible to ensure 100% sealing.

And the air in the cotton itself has moisture that condenses as soon as the wall has cooled down enough.

Conclusion: any insulation that allows steam to pass through is not suitable for internal insulation!

Tip 2. When designing insulation inside the house, you need to take into account the process of moisture transfer through the enclosing structures. That is, the vapor permeability of materials in the "pie" of the structure should decrease from room to street.

Difficult to say? Simpler: a non-vapor-permeable material should be in the room, behind it - a material with less vapor permeability, behind it - with even less, etc.

For example, you need to do insulation of the walls of a panel house from the inside... The question is: what? Minwatoi? Steam passes through mineral wool much better than through concrete (I must say: steam practically does not pass through concrete).

Conclusion: do not do insulation from the inside with mineral wool of panel (both brick, and gas-block, etc.) walls, but choose another insulation. Impermeable. For example, foam or extruded polystyrene foam. (Actually, mineral wool for internal insulation is only suitable for frame houses and attics, which also have mineral wool inside the frame.)

Comment! The author believes that foam for insulating the walls of the house inside is BAD! For health. But if your opinion is different, then do at least such insulation correctly: the walls must be aligned (!) And the insulation sheet should adhere tightly (without gaps!) To this flat surface (i.e., if we fix the insulation with glue, then the sheet must be smeared over the entire surface, and not put a few dots and / or stripes on it).

Advice 3. In any case, there must be good ventilation. There are no comments here, because it is correct.

Insulation requirements for internal insulation

Internal insulation imposes the following requirements on the insulation:

  • durability,
  • do not be afraid of fire,
  • aging resistance,
  • environmental Safety,
  • biological resistance (not edible for mice, moths, molds ...),
  • ability to keep in shape,
  • sufficient thermal insulation properties.

It is advisable to check the availability of different certificates for fire and sanitary safety before buying a heater. But if the conclusion about fire safety can still be believed, then about sanitary - it is far from always: many modern materials are not at all environmentally friendly, even if their purity is approved in the certificates.

Conclusion: it is better to focus not only (and not so much) on certificates, but on common sense, reason, practical experience, time-testedness.

And now the question is: what is the best way to insulate the walls of the house from the inside?

What kind of insulation to insulate the house from the inside?

Why mineral wool is not suitable, I have already said a couple of times, I hope it is enough. So how to insulate? There are materials that perfectly solve all problems. These are the materials that absolutely vapor-impermeable.

First, extruded polystyrene foam. We use only the one that has a "groove-comb". Extruded polystyrene foam has very good thermal resistance, so the thickness of the sheet for internal insulation is only 20 ... 30 mm. Result: the wall is healthy and the minimum area is taken away.

If the issue of ecology is important to you, then we pay attention to another material: foam glass. There is a question of sealing joints: if polystyrene can tightly become sheet to sheet, then foam glass has rougher edges.

Types of insulation for the walls of the house: outside and inside for wooden and frame houses + Video

Therefore, foam glass is often put on bituminous mastic, which is again an issue of ecology. Then it is better to seal the joints with silicone sealant or liquid rubber. The foam glass itself can be glued to polyurethane foam glue, in extreme cases, to polyurethane foam.

The third material often used for insulation from the inside is regular white foam. The problem with this material is that it has pores. Polyfoam with a density of less than 35 kg / m3 has a large number of technological pores, which is why it allows steam to pass through! The lower the density of the foam, the more vapor permeable it is. And the older the foam, the larger the pores, the higher the vapor permeability of the foam - even with the promised density of more than 35 kg / m3. Therefore, it is better to buy high-quality material for internal insulation. Again, the issue of ecology, i.e. health.

If all of the above did not scare you away from wall insulation inside the house (or you simply have nowhere to go), then in the next article we will analyze the methods of wall insulation from the inside. See you.

insulation of the walls of the house inside

Mineral wool
Expanded polystyrene or penoplex
Extruded polystyrene foam
Gypsum fiber
Cork
Expanded clay
Polyurethane foam
Cellulose wool

Insulation is used to prevent heat loss in the house or in individual rooms. Arrangement of insulation is a rather serious process, and one of the leading roles in this matter is the choice of a suitable thermal insulation material. About what kind of floor insulation there are, and will be discussed in this article.

Insulation materials are available in two formats:

  1. Roll materials and plates;
  2. Loose and other materials.

Both categories include a fairly wide range of materials with a wide variety of properties and characteristics. The most popular floor insulation materials will be discussed below.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is an excellent heat-insulating material with a lot of positive qualities. Mineral wool is produced in two types - roll insulation for floor and slab. This material is best suited for insulating wooden floors - it fits very well on the base and in the logs.

The list of positive qualities of mineral wool looks like this:

  • Good resistance to low temperatures;
  • Non-flammability;
  • Long service life;
  • Resistant to chemicals;
  • Stable physical performance.

Not without drawbacks - mineral wool has the following negative qualities:

  • Large dimensions, due to which the heat-insulating layer takes up a large volume;
  • Low strength indicators;
  • Poor moisture resistance.

Mineral wool, when moisture gets on it, immediately decreases in volume, and even if it is dried, the heat-insulating properties of the material will deteriorate many times. To prevent such a phenomenon, it is necessary to install a waterproofing layer when arranging insulation.

A good solution to the moisture issue is to use fiberglass - this material can absorb liquid and does not lose its characteristics after drying. However, the choice will not be easy - mineral wool is well suited for ensuring fire safety.

Expanded polystyrene or penoplex

Expanded polystyrene is a material consisting of small balls connected together. The production of expanded polystyrene is carried out using two technologies - press and non-press, and the difference between the materials obtained is small. Nevertheless, most often, pressed polystyrene foam with the PS marking is used for floor insulation.

As a rule, expanded polystyrene is used for thermal insulation of concrete floors. If you need to decide which insulation to choose for a floor with water or electric heating, then profile plates, for the manufacture of which dense expanded polystyrene is used, are much better suited - this material has a relief surface that prevents damage to heating elements and improves adhesion to the surface.

Styrofoam has many advantages:

  • Excellent strength indicators;
  • Good thermal insulation characteristics;
  • Affordable price;
  • Ability to prevent moisture penetration;
  • Excellent resistance to low temperatures;
  • Simple installation, which is determined by the format of the produced material.

The disadvantages of expanded polystyrene are also available:

  • Flammability;
  • The destruction of the material with prolonged exposure to sunlight;
  • Inability to pass air;
  • Fragility;
  • If a small amount of water gets inside the slabs and its subsequent freezing, the structure of expanded polystyrene is destroyed, therefore, during installation, it will be necessary to install a waterproofing layer;
  • During the installation process, seams appear between the plates, which then need to be repaired, for which polyurethane foam or sealant is used.

Extruded polystyrene foam

This material is made by means of extrusion, which explains its name. The technology for the production of extruded polystyrene foam allows you to create a floor insulation with a monolithic microstructure, consisting of sealed cells filled with air. There are no pores in these cells, so moisture and steam cannot get inside the material. See also: "What kind of insulation is better to lay under the laminate."

The list of advantages of such material looks like this:

  • High strength compared to foam;
  • Long service life;
  • Good resistance to atmospheric precipitation and UV rays;
  • High resistance to aggressive chemicals;
  • Lack of toxic secretions;
  • Low thermal conductivity.

Among the disadvantages of extruded polystyrene foam can be noted the inability to "breathe" and good flammability, which will not allow you to create a fireproof structure.

Electrical, sound and noise insulation materials

See also: "What insulation for the floor under linoleum to choose and how to install."

Gypsum fiber

Gypsum fiber is the best option for insulating any floor covering. The versatility of this material is its main advantage, allowing even structures with electric floor heating to be insulated.

For arranging a dry screed, as the technology of insulation with gypsum fiber is called, a minimum of knowledge and time is required - it is enough to follow the correct algorithm of work. In addition, it is worth knowing that gypsum fiber resists moisture very poorly, and the cost of the material is quite high.

Cork

For the manufacture of such thermal insulation, cork oak bark is used. As a rule, cork insulation is produced in slab format, the thickness of which varies from 25 to 50 cm. The slabs can be based on cork granules connected with resin, or pre-crushed pressed cork bark.

Cork insulation has many advantages:

  • Environmental Safety;
  • Low weight;
  • High strength;
  • Good ductility;
  • Excellent resistance to moisture and mold;
  • Ease of installation and work with the material;
  • Non-flammability and absence of toxic emissions during smoldering;
  • Long service life - the cork can last over 50 years.

Of the disadvantages of cork insulation, only the high cost of the material can be distinguished.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay belongs to the category of bulk insulation materials. Arrangement of thermal insulation with expanded clay has been used for a very long time - this material has become popular for its good thermal insulation characteristics and the ability to absorb moisture without consequences.

The most important problem when installing such insulation is the need to create a layer of thermal insulation with a thickness of at least 15 cm - it turns out that it is far from the thinnest insulation for the floor. However, there will be no particular difficulties with this - the work is easily done with your own hands and requires, for the most part, only the investment of time.

Polyurethane foam

A good option for insulation for any surfaces is polyurethane foam spraying. Polyurethane foam is a small capsule filled with air. To use this material, no hydro or vapor barrier is required. In addition, the polyurethane foam applied to the floor practically does not absorb moisture.

This material has many advantages, among which stand out:

  • Undemanding to leveling the surface;
  • Fast installation;
  • Lack of joints;
  • Excellent elasticity;
  • Neutral to mold and microorganisms.

The main disadvantage of polyurethane foam insulation is the complexity of spraying - it is impossible to carry out this work on your own without the proper skills.

Cellulose wool

Cellulose wool is a fine-grained wood fiber material. Laying of this material can be carried out using two technologies - wet and dry. When using the wet method, the cotton wool is blown out wet, which allows you to create a monolithic coating. Dry styling looks a little easier - for this, cotton wool needs to be poured and tamped.

Of the advantages of cellulose wool, the following qualities can be distinguished:

  • Coating integrity;
  • Low cost;
  • Good thermal insulation performance;
  • No need to equip a vapor barrier.

The main disadvantages of cotton wool are:

  • Flammability;
  • Poor ductility and poor compressive strength;
  • Complexity of installation.

Conclusion

The presented heaters are the most popular and are used quite often. To choose which insulation to use for the floor, you need to understand the characteristics of all thermal insulation materials and choose the best option for a specific situation.

Insulation of a private house

If your country house is not able to retain heat at the proper level, and you constantly freeze in it in winter, then you should think about its insulation. Of course, you can light the fireplace, turn on an electric heater in each of the rooms, and thus spend cold winter evenings. But in order to solve this problem once and for all and not spend fabulous sums on bills for gas and electricity consumption in the cold season, it is better to insulate your country cottage. After that, in winter you will not only live in warmth, tranquility and comfort, but you will also save energy.

Insulation stages

The process of warming a country house consists of a number of stages:

  • insulation of the foundation,
  • floor insulation,
  • wall insulation (internal and external),
  • insulation of the ceiling,
  • roof insulation.

Below in the article we will take a closer look at some of these steps.

In order to achieve the maximum effect from the insulation carried out, the house should be insulated in a comprehensive manner. At the same time, it is very important to use only high-quality materials.

Thermal image

Many people believe that building insulation with the help of professionals is much better. This is explained by the specifics of the specialist's work. As a rule, a built cottage loses heat due to its design flaws. It is best to identify these shortcomings and identify all the weaknesses of the house using a thermal image. Having identified weaknesses, the specialist will be able to give them maximum attention. And only a professional with his own special equipment can take such a picture.

Wall insulation

As mentioned above, house insulation should be carried out in a complex. Very often the heat loss distribution diagram shows that most of the heat is lost through the walls of the house. Therefore, it is better to start insulating the house just from the walls.

Wall insulation can be:

There are a number of features to consider here.

When combining internal wall insulation with external insulation, certain proportions must be observed - the level of thermal resistance of the external insulation should be three times higher than the level of the internal one.

Internal walls

As a result of internal wall insulation, the enclosing structure does not accumulate heat. Over time, fungus may appear on the walls inside the house, as condensation will occur between the wall and the thermal insulation layer.

Another significant disadvantage of using only this type of insulation is the fact that the walls will be in the winter in the zone of subzero temperatures.

External walls

If external wall insulation is used, then all of the above disadvantages are absent. In addition, this type of wall insulation will provide the house with a much longer service life. This is explained by the fact that with external insulation, the possibility of the formation of various fungi on the walls is practically excluded and the house from the outside turns out to be additionally protected from the negative influences of environmental factors.

The only drawback of external wall insulation is the seasonality of the work, since this insulation can only be carried out in the warm season.

Conditionally, external wall insulation is divided into three main methods:

  • laying insulation on the inside of the enclosing structures,
  • laying insulation inside the enclosing structures,
  • laying insulation on the outside of the enclosing structures (this system is called a wet-type system).

The choice of insulation

After you have selected a method of insulation for your home, you need to correctly select the material for future work. Different materials have different coefficients of thermal expansion, which must be taken into account when choosing a material. If this was not taken into account, then the material may deform over time, cracks will appear on it.

When using wet-type insulation, an important parameter is vapor permeability, as well as the calculation of moisture transfer. That is, moisture that will accumulate in the winter as a result of the temperature drop should be completely removed during the summer. These calculations should be based on the average temperature level in your area. If this factor is neglected, then excess moisture will lead to the appearance of fungi.

Insulation of floors

Insulation of floors in the house should be carried out in a comprehensive manner. This is the only way to achieve a good result. Since concrete is characterized by a high level of thermal conductivity, it is recommended to insulate the foundations from the outside when building country houses.

Before starting to insulate the floor of the house, if there is a basement or basement, they are insulated first. During insulation, the floor should not be raised higher than the waterproofing layer between the foundation and the brick.

Stages of work

Usually floor insulation is carried out according to the following algorithm:

  1. Crushed stone is laid on the ground (the layer thickness should be 10 cm).
  2. A layer of sand is poured over the crushed stone (the layer thickness should also be 10 cm).
  3. Insulating boards are laid.
  4. Lay a layer of waterproofing.
  5. Concrete screed is carried out.
  6. Lay the floor covering.

This algorithm for insulating floors is the simplest, but there are others. They are selected in accordance with the functional properties of the future floor.

The most common schemes for insulating floors in country cottages are as follows:

  • Above the underground.
  • Floors in wet operation.
  • The floors in the cold attic.
  • Floors installed with heating cables.
  • Floors above the basement.

    Thermal insulation of the house

Ceiling insulation

Heat loss of ceilings is about ten percent. And although at first glance this figure does not seem so significant, we are considering house insulation as a whole.

For insulation of ceilings, it is very important to choose a good material. Preference should be given to safe and environmentally friendly materials. In the event of a fire, fire and hot air tend to rise, so it is very important that the selected materials are not flammable and do not emit suffocating smoke.

The following materials are suitable for ceiling insulation:

  • ecowool,
  • mineral wool,
  • polyethylene films,
  • polypropylene films.

The listed materials are inexpensive and meet all of the above requirements.

Insulation of the floor in the attic

If there is an attic in a country house, then ceiling insulation is carried out in two stages. First you need to insulate the floor in the attic, and only then directly the ceiling itself.

A vapor barrier material is first attached to the ceiling, then insulation is laid (for example, sheets of mineral wool). A layer of waterproofing is placed on top of the insulation - a waterproofing film. After the last stage, the insulation of the ceilings in the house can be considered complete. Further, the ceilings can be sheathed with clapboard, or a suspended ceiling system can be installed.

Video. Correct insulation of the walls of the house. Outside or inside? Process physics

Video. Insulation of the facade of a private residential building

Thermal insulation, warming

How to insulate floors in a private house with your own hands?

A well-insulated house is always more comfortable. And the heating costs are much lower. In this article, we will tell you how you can insulate a house well, both during construction and when it has already been erected. You will find out what materials are used in this case and, most importantly, how to do it yourself, without resorting to the services of professionals.

What can you do if the house is cold despite the heating?

When building a house, special attention should be paid to insulation, especially floor insulation. If this is not done, the house will always be cold and damp. It will be necessary to increase the heating power, therefore, additional material costs await you. Isn't it easier to make high-quality insulation? Below we will talk about how this can be done relatively easily with your own hands. Well, if you have hired builders, then based on the material of the article, you can always control their work.

It all starts from the foundation

Insulation of a shallow strip foundation

Yes, even at the very initial stage of construction, you should take care of the insulation and waterproofing of the foundation. For example, you are building a small house on a shallow strip foundation - the simplest and most cost-effective way to erect a foundation for a building. In this case, it is recommended to stick a cheap insulation, for example, polystyrene, on the finished concrete tape from the sides, and lay roofing material on top. Both polystyrene and roofing material can be glued to bituminous mastic. Roofing material ribbons are overlapped, and the seams are held together by blowtorch fire.

Before the construction of the walls, waterproofing from 2 layers of roofing material is laid on the upper part of the foundation.

Only these, rather simple measures, will not allow dampness to penetrate into the concrete, it will not freeze in winter, which means that it will become much more comfortable to live in such a house, because there will be no heat leakage. And the service life of the foundation will grow many times over.

Insulation of the slab foundation

In private construction on heterogeneous soils, a monolithic reinforced concrete slab is often used as a foundation. It is insulated in the same way, only insulation and waterproofing are laid over the entire upper surface of the base, except for those places where the walls will be erected. In these places, only waterproofing is attached.

Basement insulation

If a basement is planned under the house, then a recessed strip foundation is being built. Insulation and waterproofing during the construction of such a foundation is carried out both from the outside and from the inside. Both the floor and the ceiling of the basement must be insulated. The inside of the basement is often insulated with a material called "liquid rubber". Insulation is glued onto it, and the finishing cladding is mounted on top, on the crate.

Important! Insulation should always be done together with waterproofing.

What if the house has already been built?

Here, of course, there will be more work, but it is still possible to make insulation, you just have to dig trenches around the perimeter of the building to the depth of the foundation and insulate it from the sides. If the house already has floors, then they will have to be disassembled, if they are wooden, linoleum or other covering should be removed if a cement screed is used as the floor. To insulate the floor inside the house, you can use both cheap materials and better ones, for example, Penoplex. It costs, of course, more expensive than foam or mineral wool, but has many advantages :

  • insulation sheets have different sizes and thicknesses, which allows you to choose the most suitable for a given room;
  • each sheet has a spike connection, which avoids gaps during installation.

If, nevertheless, polystyrene is chosen as a heater, then all the cracks must be "blown out" with polyurethane foam. If this is not done, "bridges" of cold are formed.

When insulating with penoplex or other similar material, the joints are glued with tape. When insulating the floor inside the house, it is recommended to lay a vapor barrier made of foil-clad polyethylene over the insulation. It is attached over the insulation with double-sided tape. It is necessary to provide for a gap around the perimeter of the room with a width of 1 cm... It will not allow the screed to crack from temperature extremes. This seam can be treated with foamed vinyl.

Floor installation

Well, the insulation is done, now you can start installing the floor. If you want to fill in a cement screed, it is recommended to lay a metal mesh over the surface of the insulation. It will make the screed more durable and prevent it from cracking and crumbling over time. It is recommended to lay high-quality insulated linoleum or carpet on the screed.

If possible, it is best not to use a screed, but to lay a wooden floor.

Thermal insulation materials: types and properties

To do this, logs are laid over the insulation, on which the floorboards are attached. In this case, the air space between the insulation and the floor surface will create additional insulation. Floorboards should be selected of good quality and installed according to all the rules, that is, tightly fit the spike joints using wedges. This will avoid creating gaps between the floorboards.

The advantages of insulation

  • dampness will disappear in the house, therefore, comfort will increase;
  • even in winter it will be possible to walk barefoot on the cement floor, which is important if there are small children in the house, because they play on the floor;
  • heating costs will be significantly reduced.

Some nuances

When insulating an already built house, be prepared for the fact that you will have to outweigh the doors, as the floor will rise. Of course, such work, like all other insulation work, requires a certain investment of money and time, but it pays off handsomely. In addition, you can do everything yourself, which will significantly save you money.

Video: Floor insulation in a private house - tips and tricks

How to level the walls in a private house yourself?

How to insulate the facade of a wooden house? Instructions

What is the best way to insulate a wooden house from the inside and what are the disadvantages of internal insulation? Materials for walls, floor and ceiling

Insulating a wooden house from the inside is advisable, unless the owner wants to spoil the natural beauty of the natural material from the outside.

It is a pity to cover a log cabin or a facade made of a bar with another finishing material, and in this case, you have to insulate the walls from the inside. Internal work includes insulation of walls, floors, ceilings, taking into account the number of storeys and the attic, and the roof.

Only environmentally friendly materials are suitable for insulating a house from the inside in order to keep the microclimate of the premises healthy.

Overview of types and characteristics of heaters, their areas of application

It is allowed to use a safer penofol, as well as a universal material for insulating any buildings and structures of mineral wool.

The advantages of insulating a wooden house from the inside

The main advantage has already been mentioned above. This is an opportunity to leave the facade of the house in its natural form. In addition, the floors inside the house can be insulated, which is very important for maintaining a healthy indoor climate.

Why is it impossible to insulate a wooden house from the inside?

Of course, you can do this, but external insulation has a number of advantages over internal insulation.

Experts advise using this method of insulation in isolated cases when external insulation is really impossible. This is explained by a number of shortcomings, which should be mentioned in more detail.

The main disadvantage of internal thermal insulation in a wooden house is the dew point displacement deeper into the wall. This will further lead to the formation of mold and wood decay there.

Among other disadvantages, the following are important:

  • lack of natural ventilation of the walls;
  • violation of the microclimate in the premises;
  • reduction of the usable area of ​​the house.

In addition, none of the heaters, except for jute and felt, can be considered 100% environmentally friendly. Therefore, it is better to insulate the house from the outside. But if this is not possible, you must choose the materials that are most suitable for internal insulation.

How can you insulate a wooden house from the inside?

Warm seam

Special sealant for log cabins. It is used indoors to insulate the seams between logs on the facade and ceiling. Relevant if the owner wants to keep the log house in its original form, without covering it with finishing materials.

Warm seam for insulation inside a wooden house

To maintain complete environmental friendliness, you can replace the sealants with jute, felt or linen tape and seal the seams with them.

The cost of caulking the seams inside the house is from 120 to 250 rubles per running meter. This is a very affordable price even for families on a small budget. Therefore, it is recommended to invite specialists to insulate the log house, only they can guarantee the high quality of work.

Mineral wool

Universal insulation, which is often used outside. Affordable cost and high thermal insulation performance make this material the most popular among developers.

The insulation technology is the same for walls and ceilings.

Positive properties of mineral wool:

  • high environmental friendliness, especially in modern materials, where formaldehyde is replaced with safer components;
  • affordable cost material is considered the cheapest option for insulation inside a wooden house;
  • good thermal insulation and noise insulation performance;
  • incombustibility;
  • durability the material does not rot, is not susceptible to fungal diseases;
  • good indicators of vapor permeability, which, by the way, is both an advantage and a disadvantage.

Negative properties include:

  • the same vapor permeability, due to which a microclimate unfavorable for human lungs can be created inside the room;
  • shrinkage when wet;
  • the need to sheathe the walls with facing material (create a false wall).

Features of mineral wool insulation of walls and ceilings of a wooden house

Unlike external insulation, inside the material is glued directly to the wall, then it is sheathed with vapor barrier.

It is best to use a special vapor barrier that allows air from the room to pass outside. This will create additional natural ventilation for the insulation. Even if it gets wet, the cotton wool can dry out due to the permeability properties of the vapor barrier.

A crate, a bar or a metal profile is installed on the vapor barrier (you can also under it), on which the facing material, drywall, board, lining, imitation of a bar, and so on are already attached.

Expanded polystyrene

Polymeric material based on foam, but without chemically harmful components. Suitable for insulation inside a wooden house.

In the photo, extruded foam polystyrene Penoplex

The advantages include good thermal insulation properties, low weight, durability and moisture resistance.

Features of insulation with expanded polystyrene

When choosing this material, you may come across such concepts as expanded and extruded polystyrene foam. In fact, this is the same material, the only difference is in the methods of its manufacture.

The main features of insulation with expanded polystyrene is the need for careful leveling of the surface and sealing the seams between the sheets. Old boards must be cleaned of irregularities and roughness, and for a log house from a bar, the material is not suitable at all.

The joints between the sheets of material are foamed and cleaned after the foam dries. Just like mineral wool, expanded polystyrene is suitable for insulating not only walls, but also ceilings.

Polyurethane foam

The material of the future, which is applied in liquid form with a special apparatus. For insulation with polyurethane foam, it is necessary to mount a frame, which is filled with foam under pressure. It quickly hardens and forms a monolithic protective layer of insulation.

Spraying polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam will reliably protect the house not only from cold and external noise, but will also provide additional guarantees of safety in case of fires.

The disadvantages include the complexity of finishing work after insulation with this material. It needs to be plastered using a special mesh.

Insulation of floors in a wooden house

In addition to the listed methods of insulation, which, as an option, are also suitable for floors, there are several more.

Warm floor

Underfloor heating system, using IR film, is an expensive pleasure, but at the moment it is the most optimal energy-saving option, which, moreover, creates a special coziness and comfort.

Backfill and jellied floors

Warming with expanded clay and pouring concrete are relevant for the floors of the first and basement floors. The advantages include good thermal insulation properties and affordable cost of materials.

There are also options for water and electric floors:

Before starting work on internal insulation, it is recommended to consult with specialists. Perhaps there will be a way to insulate the exterior of the facade, and then only work on the insulation of the floors will remain inside.