Do you do as you did as a child? walked past blooming lilaclooking around the plant in search of “lucky” flowers with three petals?
Lilacs have long been considered the most beautiful decoration any garden. Unpretentious in care, but very susceptible to haircuts. This article will look at the importance of an autumn haircut.
Is it worth cutting
Any higher plant has two systems - ground and underground. Crown and trunks or trunk - stem belong to the ground. The underground is the root part, with its own characteristics, skeletal and hairy roots.
Both systems are completely interconnected in their growth, therefore any impact on the surface part is reflected in the underground one. And vice versa. Only correct pruning crowns in the fall will have a positive effect on the rhizome, although the plant will have a shock in any case. But the difference between its minimal and critical manifestation is huge.
Good gardeners always adhere to the norm and already almost intuitively know how and when it is best to carry out activities of this kind for any plant. Lilacs are no exception. Sometimes it is a pity to trim beautiful bushes, but this is necessary primarily for their own benefit.
Experienced gardeners know that excessive pruning of lilacs in the fall will provoke abundant growth of shoots, especially those formed from dormant buds in the lower part of the crown. These shoots are undesirable, since the crown will be overcrowded, and their frost resistance is minimal. At the first cold weather, they will die. Therefore, lilacs during a haircut save only 20% of the branches.
If careless digging of soil was allowed in near-trunk circle, the roots are damaged. At the root, this will be reflected in the quality of thin, short and painful shoots. If flower buds form on them, which is unlikely, then only on the sunny part of the bush. It is thanks to this reaction that lilacs are cut annually, but not too intensively, and the soil is loosened gently, superficially.
There are gardeners who believe that pruning lilacs is optional and can be done without it. There are those who constantly undercut something, file up and are very zealous in this matter - this is typical for beginners. It is with the latter that the effect is most often obtained worse. Cropping is needed, but it should be sensible, not fanatical.
The shoots of this plant are formed according to the false dichotomous type - two shoots sprout from one node. But over the years, the root system cannot immediately increase in size every spring so as to maintain the overgrown crown properly. It follows from this that without a haircut, the condition of the plant will worsen over time. It simply won't be able to support itself.
Pruning
In the fall, all unusable branches are primarily removed:
- broken;
- blackened;
- curves;
- interfering if the bush grows next to a place where people often visit, etc.
Be sure to pay attention to the old branches. They are often adorned with lichen, painful and gnarled. For an adult, they are only a hindrance, not blooming, thickening the main part of the crown. Weak last year's shoots should also be removed. They grow in the central part of the bush and most often grow in a lack of nutrition and light. Some of them dry out from the base, others from the top. No benefit - just a waste of resources.
It is in the fall that it is worth aligning the lilacs in height during a haircut. Spring pruning will remove the buds of future flowers, and there will be little harm before wintering.
If another variety has been grafted onto the bush, it must be treated very carefully. All emerging shoots on the grafted branch are cut out. Otherwise, it will begin to grow abundantly and drown out the varietal shoots of the carrier.
Formation
It is worth starting to give the bush a special shape no earlier than in a three-year-old individual. At this age, the lilac has already grown strong enough that pruning does not cause significant harm to it, especially if it is a migrant. The lilac haircut scheme provides two options:
- Shrub. For her, 3-4 shoots are enough, not directed to the central part of the plant. Pruning concerns only branches that cross and shade each other - preventing others from developing. The haircut is aimed at avoiding thickening.
- Stamp. It looks aesthetically attractive, original and very impressive. Lilacs of this shape are very vulnerable. Trimmers, hoes and other items that can cause mechanical damage to the plant during care are worst enemies of this type... The crown must be completely symmetrical. All buds on the lilac trimmed in this way are weakened.
Second wind
Lilacs noticeably wither over the years. An overgrown bush is a tight cluster of many branches that interfere with each other. They bloom less often because as they grow, gradually, but guaranteed, they become bare. bottom part... Sometimes you have to resort to serious cardinal methods. Up to a complete tonsure. Only after this will new shoots take up.
Lilacs need to treat wounds in such a situation, since the rejuvenation of an old beauty is a rather shock process for herself. Wounds with a diameter exceeding 2 cm are treated with pharmacy brilliant green or oil paint on drying oil. Lilacs do not like garden varieties. Thick slices heal very poorly, especially during wet seasons. If you do not process them, they will rot pretty quickly.
Lilac is everyone's favorite fragrant spring bush. It is great if it is beautifully formed, looks neat, and, most importantly, blooms profusely. In order for it to truly delight with beauty every year, an annual formative pruning is needed. If this is not done, the inflorescences will gradually become smaller, the lower part of the bush will become bare, and the inflorescences themselves will bloom somewhere at an unattainable height .
The first two years after planting, the lilac grows weakly, at this time the root system is growing. It is not worth cutting anything on a growing and, in principle, weak plant. Only in the third or fourth year, when the plant is strong enough, you can start forming. To do this, leave from three to five of the strongest branches, cutting out all the weak growth. These branches will form the basis of the future lilac bush.
Spring pruning
Spring pruning is a sanitary pruning. It is carried out as soon as the frost ends and a low above zero temperature is established on the thermometer.
At this time, shoots that have not wintered well (they are usually blackened, dead, broken under the weight of snow) and young shoots that have grown over the summer months of last year are removed. You can leave only a couple of strong shoots that will be used as a replacement old wood... Shoots should be located outside the bush, all those that thicken the middle are cut out in order to provide the whole bush with light.
In the grafted lilac, all the shoots are cut out, which grew last summer below the point of the rootstock, since it has nothing to do with the variety.
No branches are shortened in the spring, so you can lose flowering in the current year.
Pruning after flowering
This is the main pruning that forms the next year's bush. It is carried out immediately after the end of flowering, only in this case the plant will have time over the summer and the beginning of autumn to lay new buds for flowering and grow many new shoots, the strongest of which you can leave. The earlier it begins to lay flower buds, the more beautiful the flowering will be on next year... I remember, even in childhood, they said that the more lilacs are cut, the better it will bloom, we were happy to give it to mom all spring and all the vases in the house smelled of lilacs. By pruning the lilacs in late summer and autumn, you will cut whatever the bush has worked on during the summer, and the flowering is likely to be weak.
After flowering, all faded inflorescences are cut off from lilacs. It is the inflorescences that need to be cut off, without touching a couple of young shoots, which are located immediately under the flower, it is on them that flower buds will form.
Some branches are cut below, forming the height of the bush. They will not bloom next year, but only in this way, observing a balance between branches with cut inflorescences and forming branches, you can keep the lilac bush at the height that you need.
After such pruning, the bush looks neater, more decorative even in a non-flowering state, and, most importantly, it does not expend energy on ripening seeds, but spends them on planting new flower buds.
At the same time, cut off all branches that go sharply to the sides. Weak thin twigs that have managed to grow are cut out, shoots that thicken the crown, go inside it, cross, interfere with each other.
In the spring, after the lilac blooms, cut off all the basal shoots, leaving only strong shoots to obtain new skeletal branches in the future, their number depends on the size of the bush. It is better to cut root shoots not superficially, but after digging up the ground a little, cut them from the root, below the soil level. In order for the lilac not to give a lot of growth, you need to dig as little as possible under the bush, loosen the soil. Root system it is superficial, and by disturbing it, we awaken the plant to renewal. It is better to use mulch, which will retain moisture and protect from weeds.
The grafted lilac is especially in need of pruning; all the shoots that go below the rootstock must be cut off from it. If you do not cut them off, then in a couple of years your beautiful variety will become a common lilac bush.
What can be cut in the fall
Broken and crooked branches can be cut in lilacs in the fall.
If there are old branches with cracked bark, they can also be removed in the fall, but you should not remove several at once. You need to get rid of old branches gradually, one or two per year, depending on the size of the bush. First of all, those that grow inside the crown, thickening it, are cut off. A balance must always be struck between the root system and the crown.
For the same reason, it is impossible not to clean the lilac bushes at all, the crown, with very large thickening, begins to greatly exhaust the underground part, which does not have time to grow as quickly as the top. The thickened bush ages faster, the inflorescences become smaller every year, their number decreases.
If there are branches grafted on a bush with another variety, all the shoots are cut off in the fall, which thickens and weakens them.
Lilac rejuvenation
Rejuvenating pruning of lilacs is best done gradually from year to year, cutting off old branches, replacing them with new ones grown from young strong growth.
To rejuvenation old lilac must be approached very carefully. With age, the bushes lose their ability to recover, it is difficult for them to give young growth. But if this happens, and the bush has practically stopped flowering, it is better to prune in early spring... Pick a few of the youngest and best branches in your opinion and cut them to a height of 30-40 centimeters from the ground. Remaining very old, with peeled cracked bark, cut at the root. Within a year, young shoots should grow from short stumps. Treat all sections with a diameter of more than 2 centimeters with oil paint, lilacs do not really like garden var, but it will do for lack of anything. If you do not process the cuts, the loose lilac wood will quickly rot.
After such a radical spring pruning, the bush must be fed with fertilizers containing nitrogen and phosphorus, mulched and ensured regular watering throughout the year.
Lilac produces a lot of wild growth, so it is suitable for creating a green hedge. To form it, you need to cut it shortly, not allowing the lower part of the branches to be exposed. It is not pruners that come in handy here, but brush cutters or special trimmers. You probably won't wait for a low lilac hedge to bloom, but if you form it higher, with a neat pruning shears, you can achieve flowering.
Hello dear readers of my blog! What are we going to talk about today? I will delight lovers of beautiful shrubs that adorn our yard in spring with their abundant unique flowering. Only my story will be quite unusual, since I will introduce you not to the cultivation of a plant, but to one of the necessary and main processes of care. Are you already starting to guess what will be discussed? That's right, I will tell you how the pruning of lilacs is done in the spring and why it is necessary to do this work at such a time.
I think you know perfectly well how rapidly the lilac grows and develops. This quality of the shrub in some cases can lead the owners into a small stupor, because the thickened crown is the reason that the plant refuses to bloom, and if inflorescences appear, then they will definitely not please with their size and brightness of shades.
There is only one way to help lilacs - by carrying out an annual spring pruning. Why spring? In the absence of experience for beginners, it will not be difficult to notice dry and frozen shoots in order to remove them first. Sick branches are also easy to distinguish - usually the buds on them do not bloom for a long time, and if leaves appear, then they are tiny.
Remove diseased and dry shoots to the first healthy and large bud, and adult damaged branches to the very base (you can leave a small stump). I think it's not worth reminding that the instrument should be clean and sharp? Let me remind you the consequences of working with a blunt file and pruning shears - the places of the cuts will turn into a fibrous washcloth, from which rotting of healthy tissue can begin.
You can thin out the crown due to shoots that grow not to the sides, but inside the lilac bush. Such branches will do more harm than good - they block access to the sun's rays and fresh air to the center of the plant. The absence of factors important for the development threatens the appearance of fungal diseases. Blossoming from improperly growing branches cannot be expected, so remove them mercilessly.
This pruning scheme will be a little incomplete if I don't warn you about cutting out the growth. It must be removed completely, without giving a chance to any shoot, especially when varietal grafted lilacs flaunt in the yard. The growth will pull everything from the soil nutrients and precious moisture, thereby slowing down the development of a beautiful bush.
Spring crown formation
It is only necessary to form a lilac crown in spring. How does this cropping happen? Look carefully from all sides lilac bush, most often you will see for yourself what is superfluous here, and what should be shortened. Usually, young shoots that have grown too long are cut off. Since the fabric of these branches is soft, you should be able to cope with the work with ordinary, but very sharp scissors.
Why is spring pruning useful? She has a lot of advantages, I will say only a few of the most basic ones:
- when to prevent mistakes in pruning in spring, the crown will continue to form independently during the year;
- the branches on which flower buds begin to form will receive more strength;
- will begin to develop much more energetically side shoots.
TO spring pruning the removal of fading buds belongs. Not sure why to do this? When you do not cut the inflorescence in a timely manner, even before the flowers completely wither, the seeds will begin to form and ripen in it. Lilac will direct a lot of its energy to this process, completely losing sight of the fact that it needs to accumulate strength for the laying of new flower buds. The result is obvious - get a lot of unnecessary planting material and the wretched lilac bloom next year.
I will open little secret - the more luxurious bouquets of lilacs this year give to loved ones and relatives, the more abundantly the bush covered with flowers will show off in the next. The trick is simple - cut out a lot of flowers, thereby stimulating the formation of new numerous buds.
During flowering, be sure to pay a little attention to the bush - you need to not only cut out the fading buds, but also remove damaged and drying out shoots. You notice that part of the inflorescences for some unknown reason begins to fade, be sure to immediately cut them off - the unfinished flowering will quickly develop into the formation of seed bolls.
Anti-aging pruning
Suppose you are a real guru in gardening or floriculture, then you know very well that sooner or later the plants grow old and begin to bloom much poorer, or even completely stop this delightful process. It is not worth rushing to throw out lilacs when she, because of her age, categorically refuses to bloom - you can fix everything here with rejuvenating pruning.
What month should I start work? I advise you not to hesitate, and immediately after the snow melts, go to your favorite. Do not have time, and the bush will start to grow, it is better not to risk it and postpone the process for the next year.
I will tell you a secret - before rejuvenating pruning, you definitely need to remember which lilacs were planted. There are only two options - grafted or wild-growing. In the first case, it is strongly discouraged to cut the lilac below the point at which the vaccination was carried out. How does this threaten your beauty? It's okay, of course, just the usual wild will start to grow.
How to get started correctly? The most powerful and thickest branches (almost half) are cut first. After them comes the turn of thinner shoots, do not feel sorry for them and cut them to the third from the base of the bud. Keep in mind - the more you remove excess branches, the more luxuriant the rejuvenated plant will grow for the next year. Wait a few seasons, and with surprise and delight you will notice how the bush will completely disappear under the bunches of fragrant flowers. By the way, excellent photos will certainly help to understand all the intricacies of cropping, I advise you to carefully read them.
As I have already warned, the instruments must be very sharp. I advise you to gloss over neat sections thin layer garden var... Of course, you can do without this, but such a precaution will help protect the lilac bush from the penetration of microorganisms. They will bring particular danger in rainy damp summer - the bush can get sick with a fungus.
I have helpful advice for beginners who have started to rejuvenate lilacs, it will be quite difficult to figure out whether a grafted bush or not. I will be happy to help. Carefully inspect the places of possible vaccinations, do not find thickenings and distinctive branches - the usual wild-growing lilac. This can be recognized by the structure of the bark - in the grafted place it will differ in pattern.
I want to warn you a little - in no case go with the sector to the lilacs in the summer! At this time, an intensive bookmarking of buds occurs, but you interfere in the process and mistakenly delete exactly those branches that are tuned to lush bloom... Next year, it remains only to observe not a large number of flowers, while without your "help" there would be much more!
I think I told everything in such detail, there will be no difficulties. If I missed something in my story, then I advise you to watch the video in which the lilac bushes are trimmed step by step. Do not forget that your friends may also have difficulties with such a difficult process, so share in social networks with today's release. The last tip for today is subscribe to the blog news. This will allow you to always know what new and interesting I have prepared. Let me say goodbye, dear readers, and wish you all the best!
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WITH
iren is known and loved by many for its beautiful bloom and scent of flowers.
With proper care, it can successfully grow and bloom for a hundred years or more.
In the city of Portsmouth (England), lilac bushes, planted in 1750, survived to 180 years.
Their height was 9 m, the diameter of the trunk at the root collar was 25 cm.
Many want to have it. There are many misconceptions associated with the lilac culture.
So, it is believed that "thoroughbred" can only be vaccinated. But this is not entirely true.
By the way, own-rooted lilacs are much more durable. Abundance of grafted seedlings
is explained by the fact that it is more convenient and cheaper for nurseries to receive a large amount of
planting material by grafting.
Or they say, the more you break the lilac, the better it blooms. This is vandalism.
Roughly broken bushes are slowly falling into decay, not to mention how ugly
they look after the raid of such "lovers" of flowers.
You can grow lilacs in high-standard, standard, half-standard, in the form
improved or free bush. So, varieties: "",
look good in improved bush form
with a small (10-15 cm) stem. Other varieties show better decorative qualities.
in the form of a free multi-stem bush with 6-7 skeletal branches. These include:, and others.
High stem form depending on the growth ability of the variety. Usually
this is done in the 2-3rd year, and in poorly developed seedlings - in the fourth. In the spring remove
all unnecessary and underdeveloped branches in the crown, and below the crown level all branches are cut
on the ring. The main shoot of the continuation is shortened to size (the height of the trunk can
be from 100 to 170 cm), which is necessary for the normal development of lateral branches.
Lateral shoots (leave 4-6 pairs of buds) pinch to obtain a compact crown
and better branching.
They begin to form in the 2nd-3rd year of the seedling's life, in the spring. In the 4th year in the spring
pinch the lateral shoots in the crown to obtain a compact crown and better branching.
This technique allows for faster flowering. On the 5th year they are not allowed
abundant flowering plants - partially break out inflorescences that have started to grow
when they reach a length of 2-2.5 cm.
Formation half-trunk and an improved bush begin with annual seedlings.
For the formation of a half-stem shape, remove the sapling on the sapling or
all the lower buds are cut to a height of 60-80 cm.Then 4-5 pairs of buds are counted up
and over the last pair left, the top is cut off with a sharp instrument, leaving a thorn
2-2.5 cm long.To create a continuation shoot, only one is left in the upper pair
the most developed kidney, the other, weaker, pluck out. Evolving escape
the extensions are tied to the left thorn. After lignification of the growing shoot
the thorn is completely cut out.
In the upper pair of buds, when planting, one, the most developed, is left. 1st year.
During the summer, the points of growth of thickening and fatty shoots are pinched 3-4 times.
2nd year... In early spring, remove all the shoots growing inside the crown, and severely damaged branches.
In vigorous bushes, the annual growth is shortened.
The form improved bush lay in the same way as half-stamp. Bole height
up to the first pair of buds from the ground should be 12-25 cm.In subsequent years, it is monitored that
all branches developed harmoniously, the fatty shoots are pinched.
Lilac bushes with 5-6 skeletal branches are most successfully formed.
In the year of planting, 3-6 skeletal branches are left in the bush. 1st year.
Form a crown, like a half-trunk, 2nd year.
In varieties with drooping panicles, the skeletal branches are directed at an angle of 35-50 °,
and with erect ones, at an angle of 70 °. Normalize flowering.
While creating natural bush form all the lower kidneys are left and cut off
the upper part of the shoot with 3-4 pairs of buds.
Cut the seedling short when planting. 3-4 pairs of buds are left in the 1st year.
In the spring, choose 3-4 of the most developed and close to the center of the bush shoot,
steel are removed for the 2nd year. In the spring, the number of main shoots in the bush is brought to 6-8.
The excess growth is destroyed. In summer, young shoots are pinched.
Much attention is paid to a young plant in the first 2-3 years of flowering. At that time
great importance has the correct cut of inflorescences. You can often observe
that growers cut off, and even worse, break off the inflorescence along with the annual,
and sometimes with a two-year increase. Excessive pruning of inflorescences on elongated shoots
oppresses a young plant. In addition, normal flowering in this case will be in a year.
The inflorescence should be cut off along with part of last year's branch, and the remaining should be
at least two developing shoots. Apical lateral buds of these shoots in the second
half of the summer they lay flower buds (some varieties lay 2-3 pairs of them),
and the bush blooms profusely the next year.
In the formed plants, thickening shoots are pinched 3-4 times during the summer.
Developing unevenly, fattening shoots are pinged into young age,
when a minimum of plastic substances are spent on their construction. Do not overly
abundant flowering of young plants, this negatively affects their subsequent
growth and development. As a rule, too strong flowering of young lilacs leads
to premature aging and death of plants. During this period, especially carefully
monitor flowering rationing. In the spring, when the inflorescences reach a length of 2-2.5 cm,
partially break out flower buds. In some years, the number of brushes is normalized
and in adult lilac bushes.
Most nurseries producing grafted and self-rooted lilac seedlings
limited to just a short cut one-year escape 3-4 pairs of well-developed
buds and plants practically come out with a naturally formed crown.
This form is far from the most successful. Such a lilac gives a lot of growth, branches develop
unevenly, the crown thickens and the flowering becomes scarce. Prevent abundant overgrowth
it is possible to plant without deepening and timely removal of dormant buds at the base of the root
stock necks. Basal shoots and rhizomatous (scion) shoots are removed systematically.
In a self-rooted lilac in early spring, in a grafted lilac - during the entire growing season
as it appears. Offspring shoots are cut “on a ring”, possibly going deeper into the soil.
If you remove the growth from case to case, and even leave hemp, the root zone only
thickens even more, as from the stumps the growth grows with a vengeance. Vaccinated
lilacs cut out all the shoots on the stem below the grafting site. Systematic and correct removal
underground stolon-like shoots formed from dormant buds, leads to the fact that the root collar
loses dormant kidneys or their number is reduced to a minimum. In the future, overgrowth is almost not formed.
Root Shoot Warning
The root shoots are cut "on the ring" without leaving hemp. Otherwise at their base
dormant buds appear and shoots grow back with a vengeance.
For most varieties, you need to take care of the formation in the very first year.
This makes pruning mature plants easier.