A modern estate cannot be imagined without coniferous plants. If earlier it was not possible to see a lonely "Christmas tree" in every dacha, today, thanks to the widest range offered by garden centers, conifers have become an indispensable component of a garden mixborder and an invariable decoration of any site. True, many are faced with the fact that the price of coniferous planting material, compared to deciduous shrubs and trees, is slightly higher and is not always affordable for ordinary summer residents. Having mastered the simple methods of propagating coniferous plants, everyone can replenish their collection with new varieties and decorate their site with them.
In this way, you can get a large number of plants to create, coniferous arrays or strengthen slopes.
In addition to seed (generative) propagation, which, as you know, is not used for varietal plants, since it does not fully preserve parental properties, conifers are propagated using cuttings and grafting (grafting is practiced if cuttings are difficult and to obtain standard forms). The easiest way that gives a quick result is cuttings with semi-lignified and lignified cuttings.
What types of conifers can be propagated by cuttings?
It's good to know that different types and even varieties of the same species can be propagated with more or less success. Representatives of the Cypress families (Cupressaceae) - thuja, microbiota, cypress, tuevik and Yew (Tahaseae) are most easily cut by cuttings. Representatives of pine (Pináceae) cuttings are very difficult to cut: spruce, hemlock, pseudo-hemlock. It is almost impossible to propagate by cuttings, fir and larch, they just use seed propagation and vaccination.
How to choose a mother liquor?
For a good result, it is also necessary to take into account a number of factors, since the violation of only one of them can nullify all previous work.
First you need to choose the right mother liquor - mature plant from which you are going to cut the cuttings. Shoots taken from young, actively growing specimens 4-8 years old take root best of all. In plants older than 10 years, the ability to root is reduced.
It is useful to know that the location on the crown of the mother plant of shoots intended for cutting into cuttings matters. In creeping and bush conifers, the place where the cutting is taken does not play a role, you can choose the most developed part, well-lit by the sun (especially in variegated varieties). From and pyramidal plants for cuttings take shoots of the first or third order in the center of the crown. Seedlings from such cuttings will be guaranteed to retain the shape of the crown of the parent variety. On the other hand, knowing this property, one can obtain sprawling or almost creeping specimens of spruce or yew, using lateral, horizontally growing branches for cuttings.
cutting time
It is also important to choose the right time for cutting cuttings. The beginning of spring is considered the most successful. After winter cooling and relative rest at the very beginning of sap flow, it is better in cloudy weather and early in the morning, when it is still not hot and there are no drying winds. Harvested in early spring cuttings will take root this year. During summer cuttings, at the beginning of lignification and hardening of the young, only callus is formed in the first year, and roots - in the next year. It is also possible to carry out cuttings after the end of active growth and the beginning of lignification of shoots in August or with lignified shoots in September-November, then rooting will occur only next year.
cutting cutting technology
Not all cuttings are suitable for rooting. Since the formation of callus and coniferous roots lasts from several months to a year or more, cuttings that are too thin and weak will be depleted and die long before rooting. Depending on the type of plant, annuals are taken for cuttings. side shoots about 5-15 cm long. In vigorous forms of thuja and cypress, cuttings can be 20-30 cm, and in junipers, a little more. Shoots with a “heel” (part of the previous year’s wood) are well rooted, which are not cut off from the parent branch, but are torn off with a sharp downward movement, capturing part of last year’s wood (too long “tail” of the bark can then be cut off with a knife).
More often, the cuttings are cut with a knife or a sharp pruner, making a cut 0.5-1 cm below the beginning of the lignification site, which can be seen from the transition from green to brown. From the bottom of the cutting (2.5-4 cm from the base or approximately 2/3), all needles and small lateral branches are removed. The wounds formed on the shoot when they are cut off also stimulate root formation. Try not to damage the apical point of growth at the cutting, otherwise the seedling will grow strongly in the future, especially in golden forms.
In prostrate and creeping junipers, 2-3 year old shoots can be used for propagation, digging them in sand or loose breathable soil for 2/3 of the length. They take root quite quickly (1.5-2 months) and by the end of the season you can get a small bush.
Pre-landing preparation
Chopped cuttings of conifers should be planted in the ground as soon as possible. They are usually not put into water, so that the vessels do not become clogged with escaping resin. If you need to store the cuttings for a while, it is better to sprinkle them with water, wrap damp cloth and place in a bag in a cool place.
Harvested cuttings can be dipped for several hours in a solution of a root formation stimulator, it is even better to powder the cut with stimulant powder before planting in the ground. Various preparations containing salts of beta-indolylacetic acid (IAA), heteroauxin, Kornevin (salts of beta-indolyl-butyric acid), salts are used as root formation stimulants. succinic acid(YAK), Root, Ribav + micrassa, etc. There is evidence that prolonged exposure of conifers in aqueous solutions provokes exfoliation of the bark, therefore, the use of powders for dusting is recommended.
There is also one interesting trick: at the end of the cutting, longitudinal cuts are made with the sharp end of the knife or the base is split to a depth of up to 1 cm, so that a large surface of the cambium is exposed, the cells of which form roots more easily.
Where and how does rooting take place?
Rooting cuttings can take from several months to a year, so it is important to choose and carefully prepare a place for planting harvested cuttings. Best results can be achieved by planting the cuttings in boxes with loose, air-intensive soil, for example, in a mixture of sand, coniferous soil and high-moor deoxidized peat in a ratio of 1:1:1, which are placed in or in a greenhouse. The best conditions air and substrate temperatures are considered to be 21-24°C and relative air humidity 95-100%. The soil temperature for medium and hard-rooted species (thuja, cypress, yew, spruce, hemlock, pseudo-hemlock) should be 3-5 ° C higher than the air temperature. Low temperature And high humidity can lead to root rot. In warm rack greenhouses with electric heating and fogging installations, the rooting and quality of planting material is 15-25% higher than in cold greenhouses.
In a greenhouse or hotbed, they maintain perfect cleanliness, preventing the formation of moss, ventilate, remove plant debris and dead cuttings. Periodically, plantings are treated with a fungicide solution to prevent decay.
If there are few cuttings, at home you can use a mini-greenhouse or cover containers glass jars, film or plastic bottles cut in half. Also, cuttings are planted in prepared beds in a protected, semi-shady place.
For successful rooting, cuttings need diffused light that is intense enough for photosynthesis and the formation in the needles of a special phytohormone necessary for root formation.
Planting cuttings of conifers
First you need to make a hole with a wooden peg, and then insert the cutting vertically or at an angle of 45-50 °, depending on the type of mother plant, morphologically with the upper side of the shoot up, tightly compressing the soil around the cutting. The depth of planting depends on the size of the cutting and the breed. More often planted to a depth of 1-1.5 cm to 2.5-5 cm. The distance between cuttings in rows is 4-7 cm, between rows is 5-10 cm. After planting, the bed is carefully watered through a fine sieve, trying to wet all layers of soil , cover with a frame and shade.
Cutting Care
Planted cuttings require constant care before rooting. Plantings are regularly watered, however, avoiding overflow and stagnation of moisture. The soil should be moderately moist and breathable. The greenhouse or hotbed needs to be ventilated, and in warm weather, plantings are sprayed with water, preventing overheating above 30 ° C. Periodically, the bed is watered with solutions of fungicide and epin.
Some time after planting, callus (from Latin callus - callus) begins to appear in the lower part of the cutting - a tissue neoplasm on wound surfaces (cracks, incisions, at the base of the cuttings, etc.), which promotes wound healing, consisting of parenchymal cells, having the shape influx (sometimes in the form of a thin layer or "curd"). Then roots appear. However, even with a strong callus, the cuttings may not develop roots and eventually die. Rooting begins in 3-4 months, but the timing is different for different breeds. After the rooting of the cuttings and the formation of growths, the greenhouses begin to gradually open slightly for hardening of young plants. In summer, root formation may slow down, and in September it will continue again.
In junipers, roots form before shoots, in pine, both shoots and roots, and in spruce and larch, shoots first, and then only roots. Callus in spruces and pines appears in the first year, and roots only in the second.
Disembarkation to a permanent place
It is clear that the rooting conditions differ from the requirements of adult plants. Therefore, cuttings are rooted and young plants are grown in a special protected place, then, if desired, they can be placed in containers and only the next year they can be planted in a permanent place according to the requirements and habitus of the species and variety. Also, young plants can be left for growing for another 2-3 years, since it is after transplants that the largest number of attacks often occurs.
We hope our advice will be useful to all novice gardeners and will help make your estates even more beautiful and comfortable.
Victoria Roy
landscape designer
specially for the Internet portal
garden center "Your Garden"
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Conifers in the photo
Coniferous plants originate mainly from North America, Japan, China and Russia (Siberia). Harsh climate conditions biological stability conifers trees to both low and high temperatures, as well as a high need for soil and air moisture, but not waterlogging. Breeds with a superficial location of the root system are spruce, arborvitae, junipers. They also cannot tolerate soil compaction around trunks.
The pit for planting and caring for coniferous trees in the garden should correspond in size to the root system or earthen coma.
After planting, abundant watering is needed, which is carried out even on rainy days. It is needed to settle the earth around the roots. After watering trunk circle, which should correspond in size to the diameter of the crown, mulch with one of the following materials: sawdust, peat, sand or just dry earth.
Large-sized coniferous plants aged 10-12 years can be transplanted in two terms - at the end of September and during October and March. Planting material should be with a clod of earth, packed in burlap. Brought planting material should be placed in water for two days until the coma is completely soaked. Then the lump hardens in 1-2 days, and only then the plant is planted.
Large landing pits are prepared in advance. If the soil is poor, they are covered with fertile soil. After planting, watering is necessary every 2-3 days, and spraying every day. New roots are formed in about 1.5-2 months.
To decorate the territory, landscape designers often use in their compositions coniferous trees. They look great both in individual plantings and in complex plantings. Due to the fact that conifers belong to evergreen plants, the decorativeness of the site remains all year round.
Pine trees are long-lived trees and can grow for more than 350 years.
Thanks to the main root, which goes deep into the ground and can reach there nutrients for a tree, the green beauty grows both in fertile lands and in sandy and rocky areas. Only a few species take root in the city, since the main part of the pine varieties has an increased sensitivity to air pollution.
Popular varieties of pine:
- Aristotle pine. It's perennial evergreen tree with a bushy upper part, which reaches a height of no more than 15 meters. Rarely used in decorative purposes to decorate the site, as it requires regular removal of dead needles from the branches. But it looks great in the form of bonsai. It has beautiful small buds.
- White pine is mainly found in Japan. This is a perennial evergreen tree with a straight and graceful trunk and a few branches densely covered with long needles. In height, it can reach 20 meters. This variety is distinguished by Bottom part needles are painted in a silvery tone. Cones are medium in size, ovoid.
- White pine. This variety is widely distributed throughout almost the entire territory of Eurasia. Whitebark pine forms a low perennial tree up to 10 meters with a wide, dense and spreading crown up to 7 meters in diameter. It is unpretentious to the place of growth and soil and responds well to smoke and air pollution. Therefore, it can often be found in parks and city gardens.
- Mountain pine grows in the form of a tree; in cultural and ornamental plantings, it is used to form a multi-stemmed bush. It is unpretentious to the soil, grows well on the Crimean slopes, keeping them from collapses. Often used in ornamental plantings. On an industrial scale, it is used in the woodworking industry.
When choosing a pine planting site, there are several points to consider. This tree is drought-resistant and does not tolerate waterlogging of the soil. Therefore, it must be planted on well-lit lands with good drainage system without groundwater flow.
Pine is not demanding on the soil composition, but it is desirable that there is a sufficient amount of sand or clay. Before planting, it is recommended to check the ground and, if necessary, add the required amount when digging.
When preparing a hole, you can lay drainage in the form of pebbles or expanded clay on the bottom, and mix soddy soil with clay or sand in proportions of 2: 1.
Basically, all adult specimens of pines tolerate winter and frost well. But young trees with delicate needles are recommended to be insulated on cold period of the year. To do this, you can use spruce branches or other convenient materials. To prevent diseases in the soil and on trees, it is recommended to regularly remove fallen needles under the trees. This process can be carried out 2 times a year or as needed.
Pine reproduces with the help of seeds, grafting and. For the first method, you need to take a mature cone and get the grains out of it. This can be done by placing it in a paper bag, which in turn is placed in a warm place. Shake the container with the contents periodically. When heated, all the petals of the cone open, and the seeds easily come out of the sinuses.
Before planting, they are treated with stimulants to increase the percentage of germination. The process is carried out in autumn period. They are sown in wet sand to a shallow depth, the container is taken out to a cool room. The air temperature is maintained within 1-5 degrees of heat. It can be a basement or any other cool room.
In the spring, the containers are brought into a warm room, and the soil is sifted, taking out the seeds.
They are sown again in prepared loose and light soil, deepening each seed by 2 cm. A greenhouse is made over the crops using glass or film, and the entire container is placed in a bright and warm room. The substrate must be constantly wet, for this it is necessary to periodically water it with a spray bottle with soft water at a temperature environment. When shoots appear, the greenhouse can be removed. So that the sprouts do not get sick, it is recommended to treat them with a fungicide solution. Throughout the season, sprouts are being taken care of, young growth can be planted only by autumn, and for the winter they can be insulated with spruce branches.
When cuttings, all the signs of the mother plant are preserved.
This is one of the most convenient ways reproduction of coniferous plants, in which a large amount can be taken from one tree source material. But propagation by cuttings is difficult, a small percentage takes root, and when improper care you can lose all the seedlings.
Pine cuttings:
- spend in spring period and to obtain the source material choose young tree grown not in the wild. Young annual branches are selected that grow upwards. The cutting is taken along with the part of the tree to which it is attached, the so-called heel.
- In order for all resins to come out of the wood, it is recommended to hold the cuttings for about 3 hours in water, and then treat them with disinfectants. To enhance root growth, it is necessary to hold the branches in a stimulating solution for about 12 hours.
- A container with a pre-prepared substrate and drainage at the bottom is pre-prepared. The soil should be light and loose; for this, peat is mixed with sand and soddy soil in equal proportions.
- The cuttings are deepened by 4-5 cm, placing them at a distance of 10 cm from each other.
- After landing, it is necessary to organize and add bottom heating. And if there are basically no problems with the first, then it is quite difficult to organize proper heating at home.
- Gardeners recommend placing containers in boxes with semi-rotted compost, manure or ordinary autumn leaves. The decomposition process releases enough heat to keep the cuttings warm.
- The cuttings are placed in a lighted place, they can be rooted on the street in specially prepared beds, for this the compost is laid out under drainage.
- After planting, a greenhouse is built.
The rooting period of pine is long, so do not touch the seedlings in the first year after planting. Good root system will grow only by the end of next autumn, provided that the cuttings were planted in the spring.
From pine diseases to decorative plantings the most common is blister rust or seryanka. This can be seen from yellow bloom at the ends of the needles. Such trees are not treated, they are removed from the site and destroyed.
To prevent the disease, it is necessary for preventive purposes to regularly treat trees with preparations containing copper in the composition.
The most common pests that can attack a tree are aphids and caterpillars. They mainly settle on the edges of young shoots and damage the buds and needles. They can be removed with special insecticides by treating all trees and plants that grow nearby.
applied in many industries. Its wood has a soft structure, which makes it easy to process it and make carved home decorations, furniture and even build houses from it. Also, this tree is often used by landscape designers to decorate the area near the house or to make an alpine slide.
Many coniferous trees have medicinal properties. Folk recipes often include young shoots or pine cones. They make tinctures, medicines and lotions.
More information can be found in the video.
Probably, many gardeners came up with the idea of reproduction. It's quite real! Cuttings of conifers can be carried out both at the beginning of summer in the ground, and in winter at home.
It is best to propagate coniferous plants by cuttings with cypress, thuja, juniper and yew (larch is easier to propagate by seeds, and spruce is generally poorly amenable to cuttings). Green shoots with a lignified lower part act as cuttings.
Take shoots from young, dense and even plants so as not to get crooked and weak as a result. If there is no “youth” on the site, then in an adult coniferous plant, choose cuttings from the upper part of the crown. You should not take shoots from the side branches, since then the plant may bend, not have a beautiful pyramidal shape, and the density gain will be uneven. If by chance you have broken off a branch of a coniferous plant, do not rush to throw it away, pick cuttings with a heel from it and root it.
Cuttings of conifers in the ground
We tear off a stalk with a heel from a branch of a coniferous plant, i.e. with a piece of wood. Cut off the coniferous needles with a secateurs from the lower third of the cutting (if any) and lower it into the rooting stimulator.
Disinfect the sand with a strong (dark pink) solution of potassium permanganate and pour it into a container. Make holes 3 cm deep with a peg at an angle of 45 °. Plant cuttings of conifers for rooting at a distance of 5 cm. Press sand at the base of the cuttings, filling the voids. Cover the landing with a transparent bag or jar. Place in a shady spot and air and water regularly.
In autumn, dig the container in the greenhouse.
If in the spring the container will be illuminated by the sun, then it will need to be shaded.
At the end of spring, the cuttings are transplanted for growing, after checking for the presence of roots (carefully remove the cutting from the sand).
Cuttings of conifers at home
For winter propagation, cuttings of thuja, cypress and juniper are suitable:
In the spring, when mass plantings begin (May), rooted cuttings of conifers are planted for growing in a semi-shady place.
After 1-2 years, young coniferous plants can be transplanted to a permanent habitat and immediately think about the future.