Hydrangea is one of the most common flowering plants in the world. In total, about 70–80 of its species are known, but only a few of them grow in Russia. garden varieties various kinds This plant blooms profusely and is relatively unpretentious in care. This and flower growers-lovers around the world. In Russia, of its species that have varieties suitable for local conditions, the following are most often planted: tree-like, paniculate and large-leaved.
Most of the hassle of caring for them is associated with preparing plants for winter. The volume and nature of these works determine climatic conditions and a variety of hydrangea. The most winter-hardy is paniculate hydrangea. Some of its varieties are able to tolerate temperatures down to -35 ° C. Still, after all, the natural range of this species is including Sakhalin. At paniculate hydrangea, especially for varieties with high frost resistance, for the winter it is usually enough to protect only root system- cover the soil of its near-trunk circle. And even then, they do it only in regions where there are severe winters. Panicled hydrangea stems almost never freeze, and flower buds form on shoots that grow in the current year.
Good frost resistance and tree hydrangea. However, in climatic zones with severe winters in autumn, it is recommended to cover it completely so that young shoots do not freeze. But even if this is not done, it will have almost no effect on the plant itself, and it will not affect its flowering at all. In the spring, a tree-like hydrangea with frozen shoots quickly recovers. This process will take even less time if you carry out timely pruning and top dressing of the plant. Flower buds in tree hydrangea, as well as in paniculate, are formed on shoots growing in the current year.
Large-leaved hydrangea is the most popular among gardeners all over the world and Russia, but with low winter hardiness. This species includes about 600 varieties, the vast majority of which are heat-loving. Only some varieties can do without a full shelter on Black Sea coast, and some especially frost-resistant ones do not freeze out in the conditions of the European regions of Russia. But even these plants must be completely protected from the winter cold, because the large-leaved hydrangea blooms from the buds of the shoots that grew last year.
That is, flower buds are formed on the shoots of the current summer. They must be preserved in the winter, covering the hydrangea, otherwise it will not bloom next year. Thus, depending on the type and variety chosen, the purpose of sheltering a hydrangea may be to protect only the root system or even young shoots from freezing. A plant affected by frost will die - this is in worst case, and at best it will only weaken for a while, but it may not bloom in the summer. It all depends on the chosen variety, the features of which must be taken into account during the pre-winter preparation of hydrangeas.
In order for hydrangeas to overwinter well, it is not enough to perform only the necessary autumn work. So, you should be aware of the basic conditions that you need to create for this plant on the site. in shady places on acidified soils, needs fertilizers and frequent watering. Does not tolerate the presence of lime in the resulting moisture. Therefore, it should be watered only with soft water, preferably rainwater, and tap water must be defended.
It is necessary to start preparing hydrangeas for winter in advance - no later than the second half of July. From this moment on, it is necessary to refuse nitrogen fertilizers by switching to phosphorus-potassium. Already these plants will be prepared for winter. At the beginning of autumn, it is necessary to stop watering the hydrangeas, and cut off the leaves from the lower sections of the shoots. This will contribute to the woodiness of the plants. On large-leaved hydrangeas, leaves must be left on top - they will protect flower buds from freezing in winter.
In anticipation of the first cold weather and before sheltering, it is recommended to prune faded inflorescences in paniculate, tree-like and large-leaved hydrangeas. In the latter species, it is important not to cut at the same time the shoots with flower buds, which should bloom next year.
How to hide hydrangea No. 1
Before proceeding with the warming of hydrangeas, it is necessary to find out exactly which variety and type is planted on the site. Classical and frost-resistant paniculate and tree plants shelter, most often, do not need. To secure their bushes in the fall, they should be well spudded, well, and you can still throw them on trunk circle dry leaves (but not with fruit trees) or lay spruce branches, as shown in the photo.
But this only applies to mature plants. One-year-old seedlings, like large-leaved hydrangea, must be completely covered for the winter. The most common proven ways to warm hydrangeas are as follows. First you need to fill the near-trunk circle with dry earth in order to protect the lower buds and root system from frost. When the soil under the hydrangeas is damp, it is advisable to mulch the entire area to be covered with dry earth to reduce the humidity under the shelter being created. Then we choose one of the options for continuing the insulation.
We lay half-meter boards around the hydrangea bush. We carefully bend the shoots of the plant, having previously tied them in a bundle, in one direction, and preferably unrelated - with a fan or the sun around the circumference, as in the photo. Let's fix them:
- we tie with ropes to the nails previously driven into the boards;
- we clamp in the cracks between the boards;
- we press with stones, bricks or other suitable materials.
Then we cover the plants with dry leaves (again, not from fruit trees) and cover them with Lutrasil or Spunbond brand 30.
Additional plant insulation options
The second way of shelter is to cover the soil around the hydrangea with spruce branches in a small amount, and already on it we lay the shoots of the plant using one of the methods proposed above. We fix them at the base and at the ends with wooden or iron staples. We put spruce branches on top of the shoots, and then Lutrasil. Then we make the next layer - from peat or sawdust. We also cover it with spruce branches. Flower buds can be further protected.
To do this, we lay capacious plastic bags filled with dry leaves along the periphery of the decomposed plant. The same packages are placed under the base of poorly bending shoots. They will not let these branches break. Then the entire structure is covered from above with a film or roofing material. The more severe the winter, the more insulating layers need to be done. Their alternation and the use of one or another of the above materials does not matter. The main thing is to follow the basic rules for creating a hydrangea shelter.
Another very popular shelter method is air-dry. The hydrangea bush is first tied and then wrapped Spunbond or Lutrasil, as shown in the video. Then we install around it 20–25 cm from the shoots a rigid frame, preferably metal mesh. This fence should rise 10 cm above the top of the plant. We fill the frame with dry leaves, and on top we cover the entire structure with waterproof material - roofing felt, film or the like. This method is also used to cover one-year-old panicled and tree hydrangeas.
Container and tub specimens of plants are best removed to the veranda, basement or other enclosed space. When this is not possible, a dig is made on the site. Choose sunny place with sufficient depth ground water. Dig a trench there. Its depth should be such that at least 10-15 cm remain from the top of the bush placed in it to the soil surface. We install hydrangeas in the trench, and then cover them with boards or wooden lattice as in the photo.
We lay on top Lutrasil or Spunbond. To make additional insulation air layer, empty boxes can be hoisted over the trench by turning them upside down and sprinkled with leaves. Lay some waterproof material on top. In the spring, we dismantle the hydrangea shelter gradually - layer by layer as the weather becomes warmer.
In our climate, almost all perennial horticultural crops need insulation, which is usually done just before the frost. As for panicle hydrangea, opinions vary greatly. The fact is that the area of its natural growth is regions with relatively low temperatures, and even with their sharp drops in combination with high humidity. For example, Far East, Japan, China. Therefore, it is referred to the group of frost-resistant plants. Hence the disputes over the question - is it worth covering the hydrangea for the winter or can this procedure be neglected.
In nature, there are about 80 species of this flower. Categorization is rather complicated, but this is not the main thing - only a few representatives of the dicotyledonous class are cultivated on the territory of the Russian Federation. One of them is panicle hydrangea. Her inflorescences white color, which eventually acquires a pinkish tint, which is why paniculate hydrangea is often called pink.
Unlike other varieties, panicled hydrangea tolerates temperatures as low as -35 ºС, but this is provided that it is reliably protected from the wind. In addition, the buds from which the buds then develop are formed on one-year-old sprouts that appear in the spring of the current year. Therefore, the peculiarity of the shelter is to protect, first of all, its root system from freezing.
Any plant, even securely sheltered for the winter, is unlikely to successfully endure the cold period if it is weakened by autumn and, moreover, is affected by some kind of pest. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare hydrangea for winter ahead of time. As a rule, experienced gardeners start doing this from mid-summer, regardless of the climate in the region.
- Completely switch to fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium. Fertilizing based on nitrogen and its compounds should be discarded. The explanation is simple - they reduce the frost resistance of the plant and initiate the growth of young shoots. Neither panicle hydrangea, as you might guess, is not necessary on the eve of winter.
- With the onset of autumn, watering the flower must be stopped. This is necessary for the speedy lignification of all branches that will overwinter.
- At the same time, leaves are removed. When to do this, it is not difficult to determine if you understand the meaning of this agrotechnical event. Moisture “leaves” (evaporates) through the leaves of the plant, and if they are left for the winter, dehydration of the wood will occur.
It is advisable to get rid of greenery at the end of the rainy period. But this applies only to the branches of the lower rows, since this procedure speeds up the process of their lignification. Before frosts, all the rest are removed for the reason that it is on the leaves that they often settle garden pests which will safely (if the greens are left) overwinter with hydrangea. Naturally, if it is completely covered.
There are recommendations that the leaves from the tops of the shoots do not need to be touched, since they serve as a kind of protection for the places where flower buds subsequently form. In this case, the authors confuse plant varieties. Hydrangea paniculata differs in that the most developed (and therefore promising) buds are located in areas from the trunk to the center of the branches. It is from them that, at the end of winter, those shoots appear, on which buds subsequently bloom. Therefore, if the tops freeze, then this will in no way affect the flowering of hydrangeas next year. Moreover, at spring pruning, in the process of crown formation, they are usually removed.
Ways to shelter for the winter
The decision on the expediency of holding this event is made by the owner of the site himself, based on the characteristics of the climate, as well as the level of ventilation of the territory. There is no point in explaining that high humidity and a strong side wind, even with slight frosts, the hydrangea can die during the winter. In addition, it is important that this flower is a bush or a tree. After all, the height of the last variety reaches 2.5 - 3 m, and in some specimens - 8, or even 10.
Hilling
The most simple technology known to all gardeners. Such foresight helps protect the trunk circle from freezing. What to use?
Experienced gardeners recommend hilling with a mixture of land from the site and peat. Fertilizer not only insulates the soil, but also gives it good nourishment when warm days come. Part of the melt water, penetrating deep into the ground, supplies the root system with the necessary nutrients. In this case, the process of fertilizing in the spring is greatly simplified.
Recommendations for using fallen leaves, grass, haulm, straw, sawdust to cover the bottom of the hydrangea, although they are often found on separate sites, are hardly correct. There are several reasons for abandoning this method of hiding.
- First, when wet, the vegetation begins to rot. As a result, mold and fungus, which will immediately spread to panicled hydrangea.
- Secondly, it is in such a mass that small rodents like to settle for the winter.
- Thirdly, on the same old leaves there are always various garden pests (or their larvae). That is why one of the most common tips for beginner summer residents is that all plant debris collected on the territory must be immediately disposed of through incineration.
If the pruning of hydrangeas on the eve of winter is low enough, and overall height the bush is small, it is advisable to pour an earthen lump with the expectation that it completely covers the stems rising above the ground.
Hilling + sheltering branches
This is the most common technique, since in most regions the temperature drops quite low in winter.
How to cover branches:
- If they are not particularly long, then it is enough to tie them, and insulate the resulting “cocoon” suitable material. The choice is large - old tree branches, spruce branches, roofing felt (covered with polyethylene film). Everything else will be provided by snow crust - this is the most reliable natural "blanket" for any plant in winter.
- With a significant length of the stems, the branches will have to be bent as close to the ground as possible. This makes hiding them much easier. The process is simple, the main thing is to securely fix them so that they cannot straighten up during the winter (for example, in strong winds).
First way. "Pin" the tops of the shoots metal staples. They are easy to make from pieces of thick wire. The only thing to consider is that these fixation elements must have long “antennae”, otherwise they will not be firmly held by the ground and will pop out of it relatively easily.
The second way. Put a piece of board on the ground, into which (on the back) nails are driven. Here, to their protruding tips, the branches are tied up.
It remains only to securely cover the hydrangea on top. What is already noted.
It is more difficult with adult bushes, the branches of which are difficult to bend down due to their considerable thickness, and therefore poor compliance. In this case, it is advisable to make a complete shelter with some kind of insulating sheet. Experienced gardeners recommend focusing on lutrasil, spunbond or something similar. These materials are specially designed to protect plants from the "surprises" of the weather, including frost. Sold in several versions, so best option pick up is easy.
With this method, the panicled hydrangea is completely “wrapped” in the canvas. To prevent the dome from falling apart from the wind and snow load, it is tied (with adhesive tape, rope), after which it is additionally (and it is desirable to do this!) frame structure. It can be built from metal arcs, mesh. The point is that then it is covered with a p / e film, and the resulting air gap(it is enough to organize it in 10 - 15 cm) between the polyethylene sheath and the inner protective layer provides more reliable insulation. For regions with frosty winters - the best way plant cover.
Panicled hydrangea adapts quite well to growing conditions. Planted on the site, it gradually adapts to the characteristics of the local climate. This means that as it grows, the method of sheltering a plant can be simplified over time. But if we are talking about a young hydrangea, it is better to cover it with " full program". This ensures that she will endure all the "surprises" of the weather safely.
Hydrangea is good even in autumn time. Some species retain inflorescences until late autumn. And how beautiful are the hydrangea bushes with large burgundy leaves! Unfortunately, not all species are winter-hardy and can overwinter in open ground without reliable insulation.
THE MOST POPULAR HYDROANGIA TYPES
treelike and paniculate hydrangea grow in many areas. They overwinter in open ground without much loss. Huge armfuls of inflorescences of tree-like hydrangeas remain on the bushes until the very end of autumn. True, they are no longer as white or light cream as before. Their color has a greenish tinge. Inflorescences fluff up and increase in size by autumn. It is a pity to cut them off, although it is time to prepare the bushes for the winter.
In paniculate hydrangeas, white, cream or pinkish inflorescences are conical in shape. In autumn, white inflorescences turn pink (less often they can remain white-cream). Some panicled hydrangeas pink shade in inflorescences more than others. Sometimes rusty nails are specially buried in the ground under paniculate hydrangea bushes so that the inflorescences become intense pink. In autumn, the heavy, wide-pyramidal inflorescences of the Vanilla Freize paniculate hydrangea turn pink-red. For the winter, it is better to sprinkle the ground under treelike and paniculate hydrangeas with peat, to which loose garden soil is added. These species are lovers of acidic and slightly acidic soils. For the winter they can not be covered. Except where the snow is blown by the wind. Then the branches are bent and covered with spruce branches.
Large-leaved hydrangeas, or garden, have huge flat or spherical inflorescences. White, crimson, pink, blue and even blue. This view is trickier. In the Moscow region, it is safer to grow them in pots, which are transferred to cool rooms in winter. Large-leaved hydrangeas can also winter in open ground if they are well insulated. So that the bushes do not suffer from decay. Large-leaved hydrangeas also grow on slightly alkaline soils, so you can add regular water to them. garden soil.
There are other, not so popular types. I have winter without any shelter petiolate and oakleaf hydrangea. True, they grow in those places where a lot of snow accumulates in winter, but melt water does not stagnate. Fast-growing creepers of petiolate hydrangea are suitable for decorating arbors, they can climb buildings and climb tall trees. If there is no support nearby, then the shoots spread along the ground. In the shade, the petiolate hydrangea blooms worse than in the sun or in partial shade. The oak-leaved hydrangea is decorated with both inflorescences and beautiful large "rough" leaves, resembling oak ones in shape. In autumn they turn purple. White inflorescences, which turn intensely pink at the end of summer, do not last long in autumn. You have to cut them off. At the end of autumn, I tie the branches so that they do not break off under a heavy snowdrift. These hydrangeas can be sprinkled with loam mixed with peat and humus, or ordinary garden soil. With age, the winter hardiness of these types of hydrangeas increases markedly.
WHEN TO PLANT?
I try not to plant hydrangea seedlings in the fall. The only exception is a transplant, when it is inevitable. It is better to leave young plants in the school. Newly acquired seedlings can be moved to a cool place in the house and planted in a permanent place in the spring. In the southern regions they are planted in the fall. Many roots are located at the very surface of the soil, so the bush is not buried when planting.
WHEN TO CUT HYDROANGIAS?
Without pruning, the bushes of treelike and paniculate hydrangeas “swing out” and bloom worse over time, their inflorescences become smaller. In autumn, I only prune upper part shoots, remove all inflorescences. I do the main pruning in the spring, during the swelling of the kidneys. Then you can see which parts of the shoots are frozen and which are alive. I start by thinning out the bush, removing broken, old shoots lying on the ground and thickening the crown. I leave no more than 12 strong shoots, which I greatly shorten (up to 2/3 of the height). In these species, inflorescences appear on the shoots of the current year, which justifies a bold pruning. A completely different approach to large-leaved hydrangeas. This species blooms on last year's shoots. They are protected and cut out only by the oldest branches and thickening shoots. It is important not to remove the upper buds. I form oak-leaved hydrangea and petiole by removing broken, dried and thickening shoots. I do this in the spring, when the state of the bushes is clearly visible.
WINTERING LARGE-LEAVED HYDENSIAS
Large-leaved hydrangeas that remain on the site for the winter must be thoroughly insulated. Lapnik and (or) dense non-woven material. The branches are pre-stretched with ropes. Better yet, pin the bushes to the ground. Those large-leaved hydrangeas that winter in the ground bloom in the second half of summer. Large-leaved hydrangeas growing in flower pots bloom much earlier.
I grow such a hydrangea, brought from Svetlogorsk (Kaliningrad region), in flower pot. For the summer I dig it into the ground, for the winter I take it to a semi-dark basement. Even near Kaliningrad, where the climate is milder, these hydrangeas freeze out in some winters. Until February, a pot with a bush prepared for wintering stands in the basement at an air temperature of plus 5 - 6 ° C. I reduce watering, but do not allow the soil to dry out. In February, I put the hydrangea on the windowsill. I am waiting for the awakening of the kidneys and the growth of basal shoots. Already in April - May, all inflorescences bloom. You can postpone flowering to a later date. To do this, leave pots with large-leaved hydrangeas in the basement (or other cool, dark room) until May. Such bushes will bloom only by mid-summer.
Coloring of inflorescences large-leaved hydrangeas varies with soil acidity. In acidic soil, pink flowers turn blue; in neutral or slightly alkaline soil, they turn pink. In the Kaliningrad region, there are many bushes of large-leaved hydrangeas, in which some of the inflorescences are blue in color, and some are pink. Previously, the soil was acidified with alum. Now there are special fertilizers for hydrangeas that affect color. The woman from whom I bought a seedling of my hydrangea said that for the blue color she acidifies the soil with water in which peat is soaked for several days. Pink inflorescences her large-leaved hydrangeas are obtained when the bush grows on the sand.
Proper Protection garden plants in winter period guarantees their safety during severe cold weather. It will help to cover the flowers from frost, ensure the safety of the roots and stem. It is necessary to carry out such procedures both in flowerbeds near a private house and in the country.
Having correctly protected the hydrangea in winter, you can not worry about its flowering in spring and summer. When choosing the optimal method, it is important to take into account both the variety of flowers and the place of growth (for example, in Siberia, maximum plant protection is required).
You can find out how to hold a shelter for the winter in this article.
How to properly protect flowers from the cold: choosing the best method for different varieties
The choice of the correct method of protection for the variety of hydrangea is mandatory, since it allows you to create for the plant optimal conditions wintering.
With insufficient shelter, the flowers will simply die. If excessive, rotting of the roots or stem may begin, which in the future will cause illness and death of the plant.
1. For panicled varieties
Panicle hydrangea needs to be protected with special attention. This large flower quite unpretentious and endures a strong drop in temperature, frost.
The only weak "link" of the flower can be considered the root system. The lack of shelter can lead to its freezing and subsequent death.
Therefore, for panicled hydrangea, the option with the protection of ordinary garden soil is perfect. She needs to cover the area around the stem and its lower part (just pour a hill).
2. For tree variety
Modern tree hydrangea with large lush flowers requires good hilling of the earth and protection of both the root and the stem.
High-quality shelter should be carried out for plants growing in especially cold regions.
3. For a large-leaved variety
Large-leaved hydrangea bushes must necessarily hide in the winter. This variety is the most gentle and very poorly tolerates frost, severe cold.
Therefore, in order to prepare for wintering, it must be cut off (remove leaves, inflorescences), and then covered. Otherwise, for large-leaved hydrangea, even a slight decrease in temperature will be fatal and it will disappear.
In addition to wintering conditions, the rules for opening flowers in spring must also be taken into account. It is necessary to carry out the procedure only with a stable increase in temperature. If in the near future weather forecasters predict strong drops and night frosts, you should wait a bit with cleaning the shelter.
Temperature fluctuations will have a bad effect on the plant and can lead to poor germination of shoots.
Important! Be sure to cover the large-leaved hydrangea for the winter-spring period in the northern cold regions. After all, warming in such areas usually occurs quite late. 
Rules for protecting young flowers: getting ready for the first wintering
Many novice gardeners are interested in whether it is necessary to cover young plants for the first wintering, or can only hilling be enough.
Proper protection of flowers with dry leaves, twigs and earth is a must.
Weak shoots are highly susceptible to negative external influences, so they will need competent protection.
Work should be carried out according to the following scheme:
- Perform sheet removal.
- Trim the stems so that about 6-10 cm remain.
- Build a fence around the stems (from branches, metal mesh or an old wooden box).
- Fill the inner space with dry healthy leaves.
- Close the created protection with waterproof non-woven materials.
Peat will also help prepare for winter in the garden.
When using it, it is necessary to perform pruning according to the same instructions, and then completely fill in the remaining pieces of the stems. Next, cover the resulting tubercle with dry branches (you can from fruit trees or spruce). And from above from moisture to close with waterproof materials.
It is correct to cover the hydrangea for the winter period using this method, completely covering the tubercle from moisture: this will prevent the accumulation of water in the peat and the decay of plants.
Important! You need to use only dry peat. A wet layer will cause the stem to rot, and preparing the hydrangea for winter will have the opposite effect - the death of flowers.
For plants that have survived the first winter well, you can use similar methods of protection. But at the same time, strong pruning of young flowers will not be carried out. Since fragile shoots need good insulation, for the winter, second-year hydrangea is recommended to be protected according to the instructions described. This will help preserve the stems and root of the flower, and ensure its normal growth during warm periods.
Note!
When studying information on how to cover hydrangea for the winter, the period of plant protection should also be taken into account. Young sprouts need to be cut and warmed in October-November, as soon as the temperature drops to about 5 degrees. 
How to properly prepare flowers for wintering in cold regions?
Even the most resistant varieties of flowers need proper insulation for the winter. After all, some regions of Russia have such a harsh climate that frosts can reach -35 degrees or more.
Therefore, the initial preparation for the winter of hydrangeas should begin with a study of forecasts for the next 3 months.
If the climatic conditions in the region are stable and the gardener knows that it will be very cold, you should not hesitate, but proceed to protect the flower beds using one of the methods described.
Method 1. Accurate stacking of stems
Near the stems put low wooden boxes(you can pieces of the pallet). Carefully lay the stems on the stand and secure. Cover with dry leaves and cover with non-woven material.
Method 2. Effective protection of young shoots (2-3 years old)
You can carefully lay young plants without stands and pillows. It is necessary to pour garden soil near the stem, fasten the stems themselves together, bend them to the ground and fix them with pebbles.
If a broad-leaved hydrangea is wrapped in this way, then a couple more layers of non-woven fabrics can be additionally laid. They will let air through, but at the same time they will additionally warm the plants.
Method 3. Simple protection of flowers for the winter
Lay pillows of dry leaves near the stems, put plants on them and press down with stones.
You can apply the above methods in any northern regions. You can use them in the Urals, where severe winters are often observed.
For warm areas with a mild climate, such measures will be redundant even for young annual flowers.
By the way, read our article.
Secrets of gardeners: original ways to protect flowers in winter
- Some gardeners recommend not trimming leaves and flowers before wintering.
The lack of such preparation makes it possible to use less insulating shelters in the following years. Flowers over time will be able to adapt to new conditions and therefore become resistant to cold.
But if garden hydrangea grows in an area with large quantity precipitation in winter, then you need to build a “cap” for it from branches or a box. This will eliminate the risk of breaking off the stems under the weight of snow.
- An interesting option for wintering plants in pots. This method is used by gardeners who grow hydrangeas in the Moscow region.
Experts recommend that young shoots (adult plants are not recommended to be transplanted into pots and even buckets) are carefully dug out when it gets cold, placed in a prepared pot with peat or ordinary garden soil. Then it remains only to rearrange it in a barn or another household. extension.
Additionally, you can cover with non-woven material for insulation.
After the onset of spring, hydrangea in a pot can be planted. The next year, you need to carry out shelter on the site.
Large plants will no longer be able to carry out such wintering. When digging up large shrubs, you can seriously damage the root, which will lead to the death of the flower. Therefore, for perennial hydrangeas, one of the wintering methods described above should be used.
Video on how to prepare hydrangea for winter:
Once in the south I saw a gorgeous blue hydrangea. The bush was 1.5 meters high and even larger in diameter. Lush hats caused burning envy, why don't we grow such plants?! Large-leaved hydrangea has a lot of varieties of the most different shades, but they have poor winter hardiness. There are varieties that are considered winter-hardy, but they often freeze even with shelter. All my attempts to grow this hydrangea in the Moscow region ended in "nothing". And yet, I found a way to achieve lush flowering.
GRANDMA'S WAY
For the first time I saw a "decent" blue hydrangea in our climate under Nizhny Novgorod. She was raised by a fragile grandmother of about eighty and covered with various materials at hand.
It was difficult to cope alone, and a neighbor helped her. Old jackets or blankets were used, which were thrown over the branches, a film was put on top, and boards were laid on it so that the film would not be blown away by the wind. At the same time, under the weight of the blanket and boards, the branches were bent low to the ground. In winter, they were covered with snow, and under it they hibernated.
I also tried the "grandmother's" way. But our winters are very different: sometimes frosts without snow, sometimes thaws in January. The shoots either froze, then vyprevali. My hydrangea didn't bloom every year. Then it grew back, but I realized that this method was not for me. You expect a wonderful flowering, but you get one disappointment and an empty green bush.
SHELTER HYDENSIAS IN A NEW WAY
Application modern materials spunbond type also did not bring stable results. In large-leaved hydrangeas, flowers are laid on the tops of the shoots, and they can freeze slightly until there is snow, even at the beginning of winter. Spunbond does not save from severe frosts, because the main covering material is snow.
In fairness, it must be said that for 4 years my hydrangea wintered under the shelter of a double spunbond and bloomed regularly. The bush has grown well and gained volume. It was all the more insulting to lose him almost completely, when, after a strong thaw, frosts broke out. Hydrangea froze to the ground. The bush partially recovered, but I did not want to risk it anymore.
CONTAINER CULTURE
Growing hydrangeas in pots has long been a well-known method. I got the opportunity to use it when we moved to new house with a great basement. Hydrangea hibernates without leaves, so it does not need light. A cellar will do.
Please note that the cellar must be dry and the basement must be cool. Often the cellar is damp, and the basement is too warm. In both cases, the hydrangea may suffer.
Temperature regime for wintering hydrangeas from 0 to +5 degrees. If you do not have such a room, allowable temperature+10С. If the thermometer reads +12..14С, there should be light in the room.
In private homes, hydrangeas can live on cold veranda where the temperature does not fall below zero.
In urban hydrangea houses, a warmed loggia is useful. It is not scary if the temperature drops to 12 degrees for a short time (some varieties can withstand up to 5C). But on the coldest nights on the loggia, you need to turn on the heating. Believe me, this is not a problem. Sometimes it is enough to open the door to the loggia so that warm air. Or turn on the standard heater.
So, a way has been found! In containers, hydrangeas reliably hibernate, bloom early and bloom profusely.
PREPARATION OF HYDENSIAS FOR WINTERING
It is very important to properly prepare the hydrangea for wintering indoors. They often make the mistake of putting it in the basement too early. The cooling period is needed for the plant to go into a dormant state. Then the winter will pass quietly.
It is recommended to wait for natural leaf fall. This usually happens after the first frost. But freezes are different. AT northern regions the temperature drops to 5 and below. This is dangerous due to the freezing of flower buds on the tops of the shoots, therefore, during frosts, hydrangea can be kept in a greenhouse. And in the suburbs, the drying of leaves after a short mo
rose is a signal that it is time to clean the hydrangea in the basement. If the leaves do not fall off, they need to be cut off.
It is desirable that it was already cool in the basement. In fact, we are transferring the plant from a cold street to a cold room, and there will be no temperature drop.
WINTER HYDRANIA
In winter, container plants are almost not watered. Just make sure the soil doesn't dry out completely. Occasionally, snow is placed in the pot or watered, but just a little.
Sometimes they make the mistake of placing the pot in a bag to reduce moisture evaporation. The soil in the bag "suffocates" and the roots can rot. To preserve moisture, it is better to put sphagnum moss in a pot. It is very good if it is not only on the surface. When planting moss is advised to add to the soil.
AND IT'S SPRING AGAIN!
In March, you can get hydrangea from the basement. It is good if the temperature increase occurs gradually. We begin to increase watering. First time to water warm water, at the second watering, add fertilizer, for example, Fertiku.
If during the winter the soil was very compacted, turned gray, then the hydrangea must be transplanted. Before this, water the plant well and only after a day start transplanting.
AT open ground we endure hydrangea only when severe frosts have passed. You can do this in April, but be sure to cover it with spunbond, or keep it in a greenhouse.
All our efforts can go down the drain if the flower buds freeze in the spring. Only remontant varieties will bloom, capable of laying buds on annual shoots(photo 5). But in this case, flowering will take place no earlier than August. Hydrangeas that have wintered in the basement are already blooming in June!
CONTAINER SELECTION
Which pots are suitable for growing flowers in container culture?
I use plastic or ceramic, but not glazed. Plastic pots are lighter. This is essential when bushes grow. Lowering a pot of more than 10 liters into the cellar is not an easy task.
Good drainage holes are a must. Ceramic pots usually have one hole small size, with prolonged rains this is not enough. I prefer special plastic containers with multiple drainage holes.
AT summer time the pot can be dug into the ground so that it does not overheat. In a wet summer (like this year), the pots can be placed under a canopy or on a veranda, the flowers retain their decorative effect longer. This is another advantage of containers. The location of the plant is easy to change if the weather or design intent requires it.