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How to plant hydrangea correctly in spring. Hydrangea paniculata: how to plant and care for

Foreword

Hydrangea requires a minimum of attention, in return giving the maximum of its beauty. Planting hydrangeas in spring is a surefire way to spruce up your garden with this plant. We tried to collect in compact view all necessary knowledge, which are primarily useful to you for a successful disembarkation and further care.

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Planting hydrangeas in spring - how to plant and plant properly?

It is quite easy to get hydrangea seedlings, because this plant reproduces both by dividing the bush, and by layering and cuttings. Cuttings can be prepared during autumn pruning and planted in spring in open ground... Planting hydrangeas in the spring in the northern regions is the most right step, although in the south, seedlings can be planted in the fall. In the case of hydrangea, it is important to remember that most of its varieties do not tolerate heat and direct sun, therefore, it is better to plant it in shaded places, which is only for the best, because there are not so many candidates among the shrubs for growing in the shade. However, among the vast abundance of varieties, you will find those plants that tolerate heat.

Transplanting hydrangeas in the spring, as well as planting, is carried out according to the general rules. First you need to prepare a landing pit or, in the case of planting a hedge, a meter-wide trench. The depth is shallow, up to 40 cm, since the root system lies superficially, which, by the way, must be taken into account when choosing neighbors for this shrub. For different varieties different distances stand out, for example, a panicle hydrangea will feel comfortable only at a distance of at least two meters from other "competitors", while a macrophile gets along with closer neighbors.

However, if you want to get the result right away, you can plant the plants at a shorter distance, but over time it is important to thin them out, leaving the stronger and more branched ones.

In the planting holes, you need to fill up a two-year supply of fertilizers, such as urea, potassium sulfate, superphosphate and, of course, organic matter, for example, well-rotted manure. Having covered them at the bottom of the hole, you need to pour a small layer of earth on top to protect the roots from direct contact with fertilizers. After two years of "vacation" it does not hurt to carry out regular feeding at least 2 times a year: in spring and throughout the summer.

Pruning hydrangeas in spring is the highlight of care

Pruning panicle hydrangea in spring, like other varieties, stimulates the growth and flowering of shrubs very well. Moreover, without pruning, this plant feels very bad, stops developing and may not bloom at all. Shortening should be done in the spring. To begin with, get rid of the frozen shoots by cutting them to healthy wood, which, by the way, does not interfere with flowering at all. Weak and thickening branches are completely removed, annual strong shoots are shortened to 3-5 buds.

Autumn pruning - what you need to know about preparing for the winter?

In autumn, the preserved inflorescences are cut off, because thanks to them, snow will accumulate in excess on the bushes, under the weight of which fragile branches can not only bend, but also break off. For old bushes, it is relevant, during which perennial wood is removed. Already in the second year, most of the shrubs are restored, continuing to delight everyone with abundant flowering, with the help of which they will fit into any landscape design.

The structure and fertility of the garden soil, which must always be moderately moist and free from excess calcium for the well-being of hydrangeas, can be improved if necessary. For this purpose, red high-moor peat, or well-decomposed peat, is added to it. And also when planting hydrangeas, you should always make a heavy garden soil a small amount of coarse sand.

Hydrangea also has a very good effect on the development of the bush (peat, needles, a layer of compost, etc.) around the plant.

Tips for lovers of panicle hydrangeas from Zinaida Luneva

Perhaps not a single agricultural scientist or amateur-experienced person has paid so much attention to growing hydrangeas in the garden in his works, as Zinaida Sergeevna Luneva, a veteran of Russian dendrology, candidate of agricultural sciences (Moscow). She gave gardeners a lot of valuable advice on growing her favorite -.

Ha photo: inflorescence of white hydrangea paniculata

“This breed prefers structural clayey soil. Hydrangea paniculata grows on red earth soils, but does not like sandy soils. In open places, its growth slows down, and the inflorescences become smaller.

When planting hydrangea seedlings, the garden soil must be filled with mineral and organic fertilizers(doses are about the same as for peonies).

If you want to immediately have a great decorative effect, then it is advisable to purchase a large 4-5-year-old hydrangea seedling. A pit for its landing is being prepared in the following dimensions: 50-70 cm wide, 35-40 cm deep.

The main reasons for failure when growing hydrangea

Failures when growing hydrangeas in the garden are most often associated with an unfavorable soil reaction for this plant. After all, hydrangeas need acidic earth (with a pH of 5.1-5.5). If on your site this indicator reaches only 6.0-7.0, then it should be slightly reduced. You can use sour high-moor peat, coniferous litter or bark for this, as well as some fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate, potassium chloride), which slightly acidify the soil.

With an alkaline reaction (pH 8.0-9.0), that is, an excessive content of lime in the soil, the hydrangea suffers from a lack of iron. It causes hydrangeas. In this case, experts advise shedding the substrate with a weak acidifying solution, feeding the hydrangea bushes iron vitriol(5-6 g per 10 l).

For successful cultivation hydrangeas in the garden are not suitable for dung-humus earth and hard irrigation water. There are five commandments that must be observed:

1. Hydrangea, or hydrangea, is very hygrophilous, which is easy to learn (literally translated from the Latin name “hydrangea” means “vessel with water”).

2. Hydrangea is a plant of acidic soils (pH about 5.0). The high content of lime in the soil is categorically contraindicated for this plant. It suffers somewhat less than other species in such cases, but its "peacefulness" should not be abused in the hope of getting good flowering.

3. Rich, fertile, fresh, suitable land and regular feeding of hydrangeas is the key to success.

4. In the species of hydrangea blooming on the shoots of the current year, the bushes are cut off only when there is no vegetation.

5. In regions with hot summers, the location for the moisture-loving hydrangea is preferably semi-shady. Only some types of hydrangea bloom better in the sun, but under conditions of regular and increased watering in the heat and.

Tagir Kilmakaev (FGOU VPO Ural State Agricultural Academy, Yekaterinburg)

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Hydrangea, planting and care - are of no small importance when growing, since an unsuccessfully chosen place and soil composition of the soil can lead to illness and poor development, in some cases death. In addition, after planting, you need to take care of the shrub correctly in order to achieve lush flowering and healthy growth ...

Site selection and soil preparation

When to plant hydrangea? The best time for planting is spring, the moment when the ground thaws, the buds have not yet blossomed, and autumn is in the month of September. When choosing a place for an ornamental deciduous plant, keep in mind that it is better to plant a hydrangea in the shade or partial shade, since the bright sun causes slower growth, as a result of which the inflorescences become smaller.

Some types of hydrangeas can be grown in open, sunny areas, but this requires abundant watering. It is advisable to protect young shrubs from the bright sun and strong winds. Not recommended to be placed under trees that strongly absorb water.

The soil for hydrangea should be well-drained and moistened, consist of a balanced mixture of humus, leafy soil, peat chips, river sand(2: 2: 1: 1). Regardless of the type and variety of hydrangea, remember that lime in the soil has a negative effect on development. The soil should have a Ph level of about 5.0.

Planting hydrangeas outdoors

In the northern regions of the country, planting hydrangeas in open ground is preferable in the spring, in southern regions, including in the Kuban, the procedure is carried out in the fall. It is recommended to equip a planting pit for beautiful bush, the dimensions of which are 0.4 m in diameter and 0.4-0.5 m in depth. When planting, be guided by the size of the root system, if it is too large, increase the volume of the fossa. It is worth noting that the roots of the hydrangea are quite branched.

choosing a place and planting a hydrangea with a closed root system - in the photo

It is necessary to introduce the prepared soil mixture into the pit and make a small mound, on which the seedling is then carefully placed and the roots are straightened, they fall asleep without deepening the root collar, which should be flush with the soil. A slight deepening is permissible, but not more than 20-30 mm; too deep landing can subsequently lead to decay of the neck.

The soil in the near-trunk zone must be well tamped. Watering the hydrangea after planting is mandatory, it is necessary that the water seeps well to a root depth of 30-40 cm. Watering is best done in a hole next to the plant.

Top dressing and mulching as the basis of care

To retain moisture after planting in a permanent place, the hydrangea is mulched in the trunk circle. Mulch also inhibits the growth of weeds and protects the roots from overheating. Peat chips, wood chips or bark are used as a mulching material, having a uniform layer of 8-10 cm.

Mulch will decompose over time and become part of the soil, slightly acidifying it. Mulch is best laid in late spring, when the ground is already well warmed up but still damp.

watering hydrangea - pictured

So that the shrub grows well and pleases with abundant flowering, the garden hydrangea is fed when planting, then in the spring in the third decade of May or in early summer - early June. Use a solution of mullein or chicken manure diluted 1:10 with water. Do not forget to fertilize with a complex of mineral fertilizers or add at least the most basic components - 20 grams of superphosphate, 10 grams of potassium nitrate and urea each. Subsequent feeding of hydrangea is carried out with an interval of 17-20 days and ends at the end of July, so that the young shoots have time to woody by the winter period.

For strong and flexible shoots, an ornamental shrub is watered with a solution of weak potassium permanganate color pink... In addition, garden stores sell special fertilizers for hydrangeas, which include magnesium and iron, which the plant needs.

mulching hydrangea with wood chips - pictured

Panicle hydrangea, large-leaved and ground cover are predominantly pinkish, creamy colors that can be changed if desired. The color of the hydrangea is directly related to the acidity of the soil. If the soil is slightly alkaline, then the flowering will be pink and crimson; on acidic soils, hydrangea blooms with blue flowers.

To obtain blue flowers in alkaline soil, the shrub is watered with iron salt solutions. To get a more intense blue color, rusty metal cans should be buried under the hydrangea.

Pruning hydrangeas - continue to groom

Do I need to prune a hydrangea and how to do it? In order for the care to be correct, it must be remembered that pruning of hydrangea large-leaved, serrate, prickly, Sargent, liana-shaped, oak-leaved is carried out taking into account the fact that flowers appear on the shoots of the second year, which means that you need to cut off old branches and weak ones, up to strong buds.

Pruning hydrangea paniculate and tree-like involves removing old and faded shoots, also weak. Wherein, experienced gardeners it is not recommended to remove a large number of shoots at the same time, it is better to stretch the procedure for a year or two so that the plant does not lose strength and does not die from excessive cutting operations. The main branches, as a rule, are not touched, only those that are bad and grow inside the bush are cut off.

autumn pruning hydrangeas - pictured

You can prune hydrangeas in spring and autumn, but preferably in autumn, as sap flow slows down, and a haircut will promote lush flowering in spring. In the spring months, improper pruning can slow down growth and delay flowering. In addition, in the spring, the processes begin to actively start at the shrub, juice is released during pruning, so be careful not to harm the plant. In spring, pruning is best done as early as possible, before the buds swell and constant heat is established.

Pruning hydrangeas for the winter is carried out as usual, with only one difference - it is better not to touch the young shrubs and let them overwinter without surgery, otherwise you risk ruining the plant. Hydrangea, planting and caring for which is not at all difficult, will certainly delight with its lush flowering, if you suddenly decide to grow an unpretentious plant in your garden.

Gotense: related photos

We describe planting and caring for hydrangeas in spring and autumn (tree, large-leaved (garden), paniculate and petiolate). Consider the place, soil, planting rules and step by step instructions, as well as watering, feeding, pruning and preparing for winter (Moscow region, North-West, Ural, Siberia and southern regions).

Planting hydrangeas in open ground: location, soil, distance and depth

The plant is thermophilic, fast-growing and needs fertile soil and sufficient moisture.

We describe planting in open ground for any type of hydrangea: oak-leaved, large-leaved (garden), paniculate, serrate, treelike, petiolate, Sargent and others.

Pick-up location

Hydrangea (all types) is a light-loving plant, it grows well in sunny and open place but the bright sun and strong wind should be avoided. Therefore, at the peak of the heat, light shading is necessary, she very much loves diffused light.

At the same time, the shrub is able to grow well in light partial shade, in this case it later blooms with fewer flowers. It is very important to have sun rays in the morning, in the morning. Therefore, the east side is better suited than the west side.

Soil and acidity

Hydrangea grows well on fertile, humus-rich clay soils... It develops worse on red earth, and sandy soils are contraindicated.

The optimum acidity level is pH 5.2-6.0 (slightly acidic soil). The maximum brightness of inflorescences is observed precisely on acidic soil, and on neutral soil, slow development and pale color.

Alkaline soil leads to chlorosis (yellowing of the leaves). When the bush grows on alkaline soil, there is often a lack of iron and magnesium, which is manifested by light and pale color of the leaves.

Therefore, acidify the soil or treat the bush with iron chelate. In past centuries, gardeners buried iron items (nails, a bank, a horseshoe).

When planting, prepare a special balanced soil mixture with fertilizers.

Soil mix

Composition: humus, sod land, leafy soil and peat - equal parts or humus, garden soil (black soil), peat and sand - 2: 2: 1: 1. And also nutrients: 20-25 grams (tablespoon + teaspoon) of carbamide (urea), 24-29 grams of potassium sulfate (two tablespoons) and 60-70 grams of superphosphate (150-250 grams of bone meal).

If spruce and pine trees grow nearby, then under them you can dig up light, loose and slightly acidic soil. Some gardeners successfully grow flowers in such soil, even without fertilizing when planting.

A complete ban is lime, chalk and wood ash.

Landing distance

Large-leaved - 120-160 cm, and paniculate 140-240 cm between bushes, and from the nearest large shrubs and trees - 230-300 cm. If you want to plant hydrangea in a row (hedge, "mixborder"), then you can dig a trench wide 90-110 cm.

If you want to achieve more early flowering then dig holes when planting closer friend to a friend (70-80 cm), and after 2-3 years, thin out the bushes if necessary.

Landing pit

Depth - 36-45, width - 51-65 cm. The roots grow mainly in breadth, extending much further than the crown.

Planting depth

The root collar should be at the level of the soil, a maximum of 2-3 cm lower, otherwise the flower will develop poorly.

Step-by-step instructions for planting hydrangeas

  1. Dig a hole to the correct size 15-30 days before planting.
  2. Prepare potting mix and fill in the planting hole.
  3. Dig a hole and place the seedling at the desired depth on the cone of the potting soil and spread the roots. Refill the hole gradually and compact the soil.
  4. Water the bush with 8-12 liters of water and sprinkle with bark, sawdust or peat - 6-8 cm thick and 16-20 cm in diameter.
  5. Protect the flower from direct sunlight during the day and strong winds.

When is the best time to plant hydrangea? Spring or Autumn?

Best planting time: spring - early May and autumn - September. At the same time, the most favorable period to plant hydrangea in cold climates is only spring, and in more southern regions it can be planted in spring and autumn.

Hydrangea care after planting

Preparing for flowering

For the first two years, cut the inflorescences at the bud stage (“pea”). And then the plant will direct all its forces to the development of the root system and the aboveground part, which will ensure better flowering in subsequent years.

  • Watering, feeding, pruning and preparing for winter - see the relevant sections.

Hydrangea garden care: growing secrets

Flower care consists of watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter. Spring is the best time to mulch into trunk circle for greater moisture retention. Spread sawdust, peat, pine needles or chips 7-8 cm in a layer, with a diameter of 24-30 cm.

Top dressing

When planting hydrangeas in a soil mixture with fertilizers, you do not need to feed for the first two years. General rule top dressing until July, acidic fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate), and from July to October potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (bone meal, superphosphate).

The need for a plant nutrients ah tall as it grows rapidly and blooms vigorously.

  1. Complex food for growth. In the beginning - mid-May, feed with a complex mineral fertilizer - 25-35 grams per 10 liters of water. Or separately a tablespoon (15 grams) of urea + 25-30 grams of superphosphate (2 tablespoons) and a tablespoon (15 grams) of potassium sulfate.
    Mineral fertilizers can be supplemented with organic: infusion of mullein or bird droppings - 1:10. Repeat feeding after 13-16 days.
  2. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizing for flowering. 12-16 days before flowering (beginning - mid-June) liquid feeding is carried out: dissolve 65-75 grams of superphosphate and 41-49 grams of potassium sulfate in water and pour over the bush.
  3. During flowering. Repeat the previous dressing, at the time of massive flowering, to prolong it and ensure the establishment of new flower buds.
  • For feeding, it is not recommended to use wood ash. Fertilizers work well for heather and rhododendron species.
  • Avoid an excess of nitrogen, which leads to a decrease in winter hardiness, deterioration of flowering and promotes the development of rot. Use only in April - May.
  • Important! An overabundance of fertilizers, especially organic fertilizers (mullein, droppings) will do more harm than a lack.

Watering hydrangea

The flower is moisture-loving and needs regular watering. Drought is contraindicated, lack of sufficient moisture leads to developmental disruption.

In dry and hot weather, water every 7-8 days with 15-20 liters of water. The usual schedule is 15-25 liters of water every 13-16 days, and if it is rainy summer, then 4-5 times per season.

The lack of moisture in the fall reduces the plant's winter hardiness, so if there is little rain in the fall, then additional watering is required.

Periodically add 2-3 grams of potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation to prevent the development of rot. Soft water works best for watering.

It is better to water in the morning or evening in the trunk circle, when there is no scorching sun. After each watering, it is advisable to loosen the soil 5-6 cm deep around the plant.

Pruning hydrangeas correctly: spring and fall

All species tolerate pruning well and need it, but each has its own characteristics. Pruning in the spring can only be carried out from 3-4 years of age. The most common types of hydrangeas in Russian gardens divided by the type of trim into two groups.

Group No. 1 (large-leaved hydrangea (garden), prickly, serrate, oakleaf, Sargent and petiolate)

These species bloom on last year's shoots and need sanitary and cosmetic pruning. The optimal pruning time - as soon as the buds are a little swollen, there is no active movement of juices, plus such trimmed shoots can be rooted. Let's talk about the example of a garden hydrangea.

Large-leaved hydrangea (macrophile) cannot be cut off, but can only be rejuvenated. Every spring, prune every fourth branch over 3 years old, especially the one growing inward so that the bush does not thicken, as well as dead, weak (thin) or broken stems at the root. Such pruning, in addition to giving a more decorative shape, improves flowering.

Spring pruning of garden hydrangea (large-leaved)

Exception: modern varieties from the series "Forever and ever", "You & Me", as well as varieties "MiniPenny", which bloom on the shoot of the first and previous years. They are pruned depending on the condition of the plant and the past wintering.

  • Petiolate hydrangea is poorly pruned: long stems are shortened for better branching.

Group No. 2 (tree and paniculate)

These species blooming on young shoots (current season) are pruned every year before bud break. Best moment: Mid to late March (as soon as the snow melts). An annual formative pruning is required, as if the flower thickens, the inflorescences will become smaller.

  1. Treelike hydrangea wakes up first. Shoots are cut to 2-3 buds from the ground. On a powerful and mature bush, sometimes only one pair of buds is left. To form a decorative form of the bush, cut off the weak and growing inward shoots.
  2. Panicle hydrangea needs more gentle pruning. Last year's shoots are shortened by a third.

Advice

  • To thin out the bush, remove the old, weak and growing inward shoots completely annually.
  • Cut off the frozen stems to the first living bud.

Bush rejuvenation

It is easy to rejuvenate an old bush with the help of special pruning: cut off all shoots at a height of 5-7 cm from ground level ("under the stump") or to the level of perennial wood. Next spring, young shoots will begin to grow, and the decorative effect of the bush will be restored.

Should I prune my hydrangea for the winter?

In the fall, the faded inflorescences are cut off at the hydrangea without fail, so that the branches do not break under the weight of the snow.

Stamp form

Paniculata hydrangea can be grown in the form of a tree - a low bole. Choose one of the most advanced shoot on a two-year-old plant grown from an apical cut, and cut off the rest. Then cut this shoot to the strongest bud every year in the spring, until it reaches 100 cm in height.

To form a crown in the following years, pinch the top of the shoot, and remove the new shoots completely. In the future, weak shoots are cut off annually and only 4-5 strongest branches are left for bushiness.

An example of a standard form of hydrangea paniculata

Hydrangea care in the fall and preparation for winter

After flowering, care for hydrangea in the fall consists in removing faded inflorescences and preparing for winter.

  • Treelike hydrangea can not be covered for the winter, mulching is enough - it has high winter hardiness.
  • In the conditions of the Middle Belt, Moscow Region, North-West, the Urals and Siberia, be sure to cover the hydrangea for the winter, and it is better to dig up the large-leaved hydrangea, transplant it into pots and bring it into the house.
    Insofar as given view can be grown in areas where winter temperatures are at least -23.5 ° C. The exception is some modern winter hardy varieties mentioned in the section - "cropping".
  • In more southern and warmer areas, hilling and mulching can be dispensed with.

Preparing for winter and sheltering hydrangeas

Inflorescences appear on last year's shoots (large-leaved hydrangea), and the goal is to completely preserve them from frost and damping.

Since the leaves and flowers large-leaved hydrangea die from small frosts at night, preparations for winter begin in mid - late October (after the first frosts).

  • Hydrangea garden paniculate and large-leaved must be covered for the winter.

  1. To do this, they spud a bush with earth, and the trunk circle is mulched with rotted manure, needles or peat.
  2. Then the stems are bent to the soil and covered with sawdust, spruce branches or dry leaves. And on top of the bush they put a box (box).
  3. After the end of the spring frost (April), the winter shelter is dismantled and pruned.
  4. It is better to carefully tie a large bush and make a frame shelter ("hut") above it by 8-12 cm and pour dry foliage inside it.

Preparing hydrangeas for winter Shelter hydrangea for the winter Top layer of winter shelter for hydrangea

In case of short-term frosts, it is convenient to cover with lutrasil, white burlap or a double layer of film.

Shelter of a large-leaved hydrangea for the winter from a gardener from the Moscow region

  1. In the fall, before the arrival of night frosts, cut off all the leaves from the bush. If you leave them, the flower will start to rot. Leave only flower buds at the tips of the branches, with a maximum of two leaves protecting them.
  2. Tie all branches on the bush, 3-4 pieces of approximately the same size, into separate bundles with elastic material (elastic, tights, strips of fabric).
  3. Bend the bundles as low as possible to the soil and secure metal staples(electrodes, thick wire). It is necessary to bend the hydrangea to the ground carefully so as not to damage the shoots. In some varieties, they become very woody and it is better to bend them down gradually, starting with a slight slope.
  4. Before the cold weather begins (mid-November), cover the hydrangea with any non-woven material (burlap, agrofibre).
  5. Before the onset of severe frosts, remove the cover and cover the flower with dry peat, compost or leafy soil. The base of the bush is less afraid of frost than the fragile tips of the shoots, so it is sprinkled quite a bit.
  6. Place arcs over the plant and stretch the covering material again, and put a piece of film on top so that the ends remain open and there is no high humidity inside the winter shelter.

Shelter for the winter of a young hydrangea

Young seedlings are not cut off, but simply brought into the house in pots for the winter or covered with earth and additionally covered for the winter with an 11-16 cm layer of peat, dry foliage, needles or sawdust.

When can a hydrangea be opened after winter?

In the spring, you need to remove the winter shelter from the hydrangea at the right time to prevent the shoots from drying out.

  1. In mid-March, remove the foil and covering material, scoop up the peat or soil, and cover again with burlap.
  2. In early April, when the night frosts end and a stable heat sets in, remove the cover from the large-leaved hydrangea completely.

The approximate dates for the Moscow region are indicated.

Hydrangea winter hardiness

Now the large-leaved hydrangea is increasingly grown in the conditions of central Russia and in the Moscow region, in the Urals and Siberia. However, not all winter-hardy varieties are able to bloom in any area due to the different microclimate.

The plant can withstand up to -23 ° C, and the tree hydrangea, paniculate and ground cover are considered the most winter-hardy.

The winter hardiness of a plant increases if it received a sufficient amount of water in the fall, as well as potassium-phosphorus fertilization.

Diseases and pests

Hydrangea is very resistant to diseases and pests, but sometimes it still affects powdery mildew, spider mites and aphids (more often indoors).

  1. HOW TO FIGHT MEALY DEW? INSTRUCTIONS, MEANS AND FUNGICIDES.
  2. HOW TO FIGHT AHEADS? FIGHT RULES AND BEST DRUGS!

Why doesn't hydrangea bloom in the garden? What to do?

We will list the most common reasons for not blooming.

  1. Deficiency or excess of nutrients, especially nitrogen. With excessive feeding, especially with organic fertilizers, flowering is very difficult to achieve. Apply nitrogen only during active vegetation (April - May).
  2. Improper pruning or winterization. The plant blooms on last year's shoots (upper buds). They often suffer from winter chills and are sometimes removed if over-pruned. If you have a large-leaved hydrangea, then read how to properly prune it - the "Pruning" section.
  3. Excessive direct sunlight. Diffused light is ideal for hydrangea, but if it grows in a sunny place without shading in the midday heat, then flowering worsens and shortens.

How to speed up hydrangea flowering?

To make the bush bloom faster, sprinkle it as soon as the inflorescences become 2-4 cm in diameter twice with an interval of 5-7 days with gibberellins - 50 mg / liter of water. This treatment allows you to bloom 2-4 weeks earlier and get more massive and decorative flowering.

How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?

The flowers of the plant can change their color depending on the acidity of the soil and the ability to accumulate aluminum.

Water the bush with a solution of potassium alum (100 g / 10 liters of water). To change the color, you need to water 3-4 times every 12-15 days. Therefore, watering begins 50-70 days before flowering.

After that, the white or pink flowers (slightly alkaline soil) will turn blue or blue, depending on the concentration. At the same time, alum reduces acidity, so you need to use them carefully. The price of 100 g of alum is about 30-50 rubles.

  • If you want to dry hydrangea inflorescences for the winter, then cut them off immediately after all the flowers bloom. Tie in small bunches and hang flowers down in a dark place to dry.
  • Hydrangea can be grown at home as a pot culture. In the fall, she sheds her leaves, for the winter she is cut off and transferred to a cool place (+ 4-6), and in late February - early March, they are put on a bright and warm place no direct sunlight. In summer, the flower can be taken out into the open air and left until September.
  • Experts advise planting ground cover species in the near-trunk circle: stonecrops, bryophyte saxifrage and others.

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

1. REPRODUCTION OF GARDEN HORTENSIA: ALL WAYS!

2. TYPES AND BEST VARIETIES OF HYDRENSE WITH PHOTOS AND TITLES!

We wish you flowers will cheer you up and make you a little happier!

The garden blooms with unusual colors in spring, and this continues until autumn. This hydrangea blooms for endless summer and delights in its appearance and scent. Planting a garden hydrangea and caring for it in the open field does not require special knowledge and costs, because it grows and reproduces well. And if you select varieties by color, size, combined with other plants, you will get a lot of pleasure for the whole summer. Hydrangea is recognized as the queen of the garden!

When to plant a hydrangea: mastering planting rules

When choosing this flower as a decoration for your backyard territory, you do not need complex and time-consuming pruning procedures, greenhouse wisdom. The most important thing is to choose the right place for planting, water abundantly and apply top dressing on time. Planting hydrangeas in open ground should be in a sunny and calm place. This flower does not like shaded places. Outdoor planting should take place in the month of May or September.

How to plant a hydrangea for a lush bush

At the planting site, hydrangeas dig a depression in the ground half a meter deep and about 60-70 cm in diameter.When planting and growing several bushes in the garden, a distance of about one and a half meters should be laid between them. The plant, if properly cared for, grows and takes up a decent area. The depressions are covered with a special compound consisting of 1 part of sand, 1 part of peat, 2 parts of soil, 2 parts of humus. A fertilizer containing urea, potassium sulfide, superphosphate and humus is added.

It is important! You should not add lime to the mixture for feeding the roots of the flower - this will destroy the immature plant.

When planting a bush, you do not need to deeply deepen the root collar - it should be slightly below the surface level. The plant requires abundant watering.

Beginners are often interested in what year the bush blooms after planting. We answer: with proper planting and caring for the hydrangea, it will bloom the next year. But in the first season, it is recommended to pick the flowers so that the plant gains strength, grows and grows stronger for the next flowering.

How to care for hydrangea in the garden

This is an unpretentious plant to care for. The main activities are reduced to abundant watering, periodic loosening of the soil around the bush, weeding and fertilization on schedule. If, when planting, you mulch the bushes with sawdust or peat mixture, then you often do not have to water. Peat and sawdust retain moisture for a long time, which is sufficient for the development of a closed root system.

A perennial shrub requires proper pruning. Prune it before starting the growing season. Pruning hydrangeas in the garden is necessary to get rid of old shoots, leaving young and vigorous ones. Fresh shoots only need to be shortened to 4-5 buds. Remove wilted inflorescences periodically. Bushes planted on the site 5-7 years ago should be pruned to hemp, which will then give strength to new shoots.

How to plant a hydrangea: mastering feeding and fertilizing

Planting hydrangeas in fertilizer-rich soil will allow the first 2 years not to worry about fertilizing and feeding.

Then the rules for planting and caring for hydrangeas in the open field suggest the following:

  • in the middle of spring, phosphorus-potassium and nitrogen-containing fertilizers are required at the base of each bush;
  • feed with potassium sulfate and superphosphate for the second time in a season during the period of swelling of the buds;
  • over the summer, this honey plant is fed several more times with a solution of cow chicken manure.

It is important! Excess nitrogen in root feeding can affect the color change of inflorescences to a pale green hue.

About breeding methods

Along with other shrub perennial plants, this miracle bush reproduces vegetatively with the help of cuttings, dividing the rhizome, rooting cuttings and sowing seeds.

When propagating by cuttings in the middle of summer, young shoots not yet covered with bark are cut off and rooted in a special turf. The composition of the soil includes coarse sand and peat. It is advisable to add crushed mossy sphagnum to the soil for greater looseness and moisture retention. Cuttings are planted with a slight slope every 5-6 cm and strictly monitor the temperature (+ 17 + 20C) and humidity. After a month and a half, shoots with roots are planted in the selected planting site and provide all of the above care measures.

When dividing a bush, it is important that young shoots have 3-4 buds. The rhizome is carefully divided, and the shoots are planted in a place prepared in the garden.

Hydrangea propagates in the garden with the help of layering: young shoots from a common bush are pressed to the ground in a place where a hole has been dug in advance (up to 20 cm), and they are added dropwise. For a tighter connection, the elastic shoot is sometimes fixed with staples. To speed up the process of root formation, it is recommended to slightly cut the shoot in the area where it will be dug. New education needs abundant watering. As the roots develop, the connecting link is cut, and the young bush is planted in the place allotted to it.

About possible diseases and pests

The plant is resistant to diseases and pests. But it is also susceptible to infection. Downy mildew, chlorosis, appearance spider mite and leaf aphid- these are the most common ailments of garden hydrangea.

Have the leaves lost their natural color, become lighter? This is chlorosis, which develops due to excess lime or humus in the ground. Add nitric acid potassium, copper sulfate to watering, and alternate these two solutions after two days on the third.

Downy mildew appears if the air humidity is high. Treating the leaves of the plant with copper sulfate with the addition of laundry soap will help get rid of the disease.

Garlic tincture is capable of overcoming the army of aphids. It is prepared as follows: garlic (200 gr.) Is chopped and insisted in a bucket of water for 2 days, then add laundry soap(40 gr.). This solution is sprayed on the bushes once a week until the pests are completely destroyed.

Varietal and species classification

The plant is rightfully considered a favorite of all the other summer cottages. garden flowers... A long flowering period of 4 months until October, various shades and shapes of inflorescences create a wonderful image for this plant and make it desirable for owners of country houses, summer cottages, designers who successfully use the advantages of shrubs in creating landscapes.

The flowers are shaped like balls or tassels; the petals are white, lilac, red, pale pink and even two-colored. The most popular in the Moscow region, and throughout the country, is a tree-like form. This bush is unpretentious, easy to care for and reproduce, it is recommended for breeding even for beginners. Up to 30 varieties of this flower are known. But the most popular among land owners are the following varieties:

  • "Anabel" is a lush bush with a height of up to 1.5 m. Its snow-white spherical inflorescences bloom from the beginning of summer and bloom until September. Stays green until winter. Adapted to the conditions of our winters, does not require insulation.
  • "Grandiflora" has large snow-white flowers, flowering period from June to October.
  • "Sterilis" with its pale green and white hemispheres from mid-summer to October cannot but delight homeowners with its lush color and aroma.
  • BellaAnna is a novelty among other varieties. The flowers are in the form of balls, hydrangea bushes in the garden grow up to 3 m in diameter. It happens with pale pink flowers and crimson, the flowering period is until October.
  • "InvincibelSpirit" is attractive with a delicate pinkish shade of petals.

Paniculate and tree hydrangeas are very popular. They have flowers original form, bloom for a long period, can change color. The plant is frost-hardy and can withstand even the harshest winters in the north of the country. These include varieties:

  • "Vanilla Freise", which has delicate white-pinkish petals;
  • "Limelight" blooms only in autumn, flowers are large, delicate lemon shade;
  • PinkyWinky is attractive with pale red petals.

Hydrangea in landscape design projects

Excellent compositions construct modern designers using different forms and colors. Taking into account the climatic conditions of the territory of Russia, professionals advise choosing tree-like, paniculate and petiolate hydrangea varieties for planting.

Experts advise against using flowers in compositions with yellowish, red, orange hues. Successfully highlight the advantages of the bushes of plants blooming in a pale blue color, conifers, leaves, cereal family, juniper, clematis.

This plant is deservedly recognized as the basis beautiful garden... With good care and cultivation, hydrangeas will be a delight to the eyes for years to come.

Planting garden hydrangeas and care have their own characteristics. To admire the beautiful and lush flowering, we will learn how to properly care for this plant.

Garden hydrangea - species and varieties

There are many types and varieties of this ornamental shrub. Most of them prefer to grow in partial shade, but there are some that do well in sunny areas. The height of the bushes and the flowering period are very different and depend on the variety.

The most common types:

  • Large-leaved. It blooms in the second half of summer with lush inflorescences in the form of balls. Flowers may have different shade... Height - 2 m. Requires shelter in winter, maximum tolerates temperatures up to - 10 ° C
  • Pereshkovaya. Variety of creepers. It blooms with white-pink inflorescences. Requires support, otherwise it will creep along the ground. A good option for arbors and arches.
  • Tree-like. The flowers are snow-white. Height - up to 3 m. Looks very impressive, but freezes in winter. The plus is that the plant recovers quickly. Requires strong spring pruning.
  • Paniculata. It blooms from July to late autumn with dense panicles 30 cm long. The shade of the inflorescences varies from white to greenish. The height of the bush is 3-4 m. An unpretentious and frost-resistant variety.

On the basis of these species, many different varieties have been created, each of which is beautiful in its own way. Depending on the type, hydrangeas can be deciduous or evergreen, but in our area they are most often grown in the first version.

Growing features

Interestingly, the shade of the inflorescences can be adjusted independently by adding certain fertilizers to the soil. On neutral soil, the flowers will have a beige or cream shade. A soil with a high alkali content gives flowers a pink or lilac color, acids - a blue one.

Bright illumination is very important for the shrub, but the scorching rays of the sun are destructive for it, as well as deep shadow. Therefore, it is best to plant a flower where there is shade at lunchtime, and the rest of the time - the sun.

It is important not to overfeed the seedlings with organic matter. They will build up green mass, but are unlikely to bloom.

Landing in open ground

Hydrangea is a demanding flower. Therefore, before landing, you need to think carefully about all the nuances.

Site and soil preparation

The landing site must be prepared in advance - about 2 weeks in advance. The soil should be acidic and well moisturized. The acidity can be adjusted independently with the help of special preparations. Depending on the variety, the flowers can grow in partial shade or in the sun. The best place for planting - light partial shade, in a strong shade the plants will not bloom.

The hole should be small: 40 cm deep and 40 cm wide. If a group planting is planned, then the distance between the bushes should be at least 90-100 cm. Sand and fertilizers are added to the pit, mixing well with the ground. Pour some peat into the next layer.

How and when to plant?

Landing is carried out in early spring or in the fall. It depends on the climate of each region. In colder areas, it is better to plant the bushes in the spring so that they can give new roots, get stronger and be able to survive the harsh winter. In warmer regions, planting can be done in the fall. If planting is done in spring, then annual shoots must be shortened by at least 3 buds.

It is advisable to shorten the roots of the seedling a little. When planting, you need to make sure that the root collar is not covered with earth. The planted bush is abundantly watered and mulched with peat. When watering, care must be taken that a strong jet of water does not erode the soil near the roots.

As soon as new leaves appear on the plant, this indicates that the process of the formation of new roots is in full swing.

Phantom hydrangea care

Hydrangea Phantom is one of the most beautiful of the paniculata family. It blooms magnificently throughout the season with long panicles and exudes a pleasant aroma. The variety is resistant to root diseases and frost, quickly recovers after freezing. The bush can grow in one place for many years without requiring a transplant.

Watering and feeding

“Hydrangea” in translation from Latin means “yearning for water”. The flower is very hygrophilous, therefore, in no case should the soil dry out. Watering should be regular and abundant. As soon as the topsoil dries up a little, the plant needs to be watered again. If the ground around the bush is mulched with peat, you can water less often, since the soil does not dry out so quickly. In the first years, 7-8 liters of water are poured under each seedling, in subsequent years - at least 18 liters.

Watering is the best time to feed. In early spring, the plant needs nitrogen fertilization, during the budding period - in potassium and phosphorus.

It is useful to water the bushes with acidified water once every 2 weeks. For 10 liters of water, you need to take 1 tbsp. l. citric acid. The solution is poured directly under the roots. In addition, in the spring-summer period, once every 3-4 weeks, you need to loosen the ground in order to improve aeration.

How to transplant and prune?

The plant tolerates pruning well. If you do not cut it, the bush will lose its decorative effect, and the flowering will be weak. It is best to do this procedure in the spring when the buds are swollen. If the bushes are too old, they can be easily renewed by cutting them almost to the root.

All types of hydrangeas can be divided into two groups:

  • To the first category includes those species and varieties, the flowers of which are formed on the shoots of the last year (petiole, prickly, large-leaved, serrate). They do not need special pruning, it is enough to remove old, dried and improperly growing branches.
  • To the second category includes species that form flowers on the shoots of the current year (paniculate and tree-like). These bushes require strong pruning, all shoots should be shortened in early spring to 2-3 pairs of buds.

When the hydrangea is going to bloom for the first time, you need to immediately cut off all the buds so that the plant gains strength and can bloom profusely next year. Formative pruning of the bush within 5 years will produce a beautiful little tree.

It is necessary to transplant Phantom hydrangea only in extreme cases. It grows well in the same place for years. Therefore, transplanting is justified if an adult bush needs to be divided into parts and planted in other places.

Flower care in autumn

Hydrangea care garden autumn consists in pruning the inflorescences, while removing at least 3 buds from the top of the shoot. This must be done so that the sudden falling wet snow does not freeze on them and break fragile branches. The base of the bushes must be huddled high, and the ground around them must be well mulched. This will protect the surface root system from frost.

How does hydrangea winter?

In the middle lane, the shrub tolerates winter well. But for a safety net, it is still better to cover it with spruce branches. In the northern regions, the flower is removed for the winter in a room with a positive temperature, since very coldy can destroy him.

Sometimes the bushes are neatly tied, wrapped in spunbond and a mesh frame is erected near them. The space between the covering material and the mesh is filled with dry foliage. With the first breeze of heat, the leaves are removed, but the spunbond is removed only after a constant positive temperature is established.

How does garden hydrangea reproduce?

The easiest way to propagate a hydrangea is cuttings. They are cut in the spring from annual green shoots. It is necessary to cut at right angles. The length of the cuttings is no more than 12 cm. The leaves are removed from the lower part, treated with preparations to stimulate growth and planted in a greenhouse or boxes.

A good option is to multiply the flower by dividing it. This can be done both in spring and autumn. The bush is carefully dug up and divided into 3-4 parts, so that each has several renewal buds. The workpieces are planted in pre-marked places.

Also without special efforts you can propagate the hydrangea by layering. Young shoots are gently bent to the ground, fixed and buried in the ground, leaving the top (about 20 cm). As early as the next spring or autumn, the root cuttings can be separated from the mother plant and transplanted.

Sometimes the shrub is propagated by seeds or grafting, but these are too laborious methods. Knowing how the garden hydrangea reproduces, you can choose the appropriate method in advance and do it in a timely manner.

Protection against diseases and pests

Hydrangeas rarely get sick, while the lion's share of the disease is transferred with seedlings. For this reason, you only need to buy new plants from proven nurseries. Other causes of disease are plant thickening, lack of nutrients and high humidity air.

Many fungal diseases can be fought with copper oxychloride.

One of the most common diseases is chlorosis. Due to a lack of iron, the leaves turn yellow, while the veins remain green. For treatment, drugs Agricol, Brexil are used. As a preventive measure, plants need to be fed with iron-containing fertilizers in a timely manner.

Use in landscape design

Hydrangea looks great both in single plantings and in group. You just need to design in advance its location at a decent distance from other plants. Over time, the bushes grow strongly and require a lot of space.

The flower can be planted as a soloist in the front garden if it is located with north side at home. When choosing hydrangea companions in a mixborder, you need to take into account their characteristics. Similar requirements for moisture, lighting and soil acidity in astilba, hosts, cuffs. If the site is large, you can plant a composition of several bushes. Their sprawling shape will create an expressive accent in the garden. These shrubs are often used to restrict areas of the garden.

Hydrangeas work well for different styles garden design, so they can be grown by everyone.

Garden hydrangea is called a large-leaved hydrangea. This is the most common type, although many growers hesitate to grow it in midland gardens. The reasons for this attitude towards garden hydrangea are:

In addition, autumn and spring frosts sometimes damage flower buds, and then hydrangeas do not bloom.

It should be noted, though, that most hydrangeas under cover do well in cold winters.

V last years frost-resistant varieties appeared, capable of withstanding temperatures down to -35 degrees.

Large-leaved hydrangea loves acidic soils. Take a closer look at what plants grow on your site with pleasure, and you will determine the degree of acidity of the fertile layer: pine, spruce, horsetail, strawberries, caustic buttercup, sorrel and oxalis will indicate an acidic soil.

This plant with luxurious pyramidal inflorescences is the most unpretentious plant among its sisters.

She feels great in open sunny places, but agrees to grow with a little shade, as long as there is no wind.

It is not particularly demanding on soils: it grows on sandy, well-moistened soils and on clayey (but subject to the organization of high-quality drainage).

Panicle hydrangea is not very demanding on the acidity of the soil. Only overly alkaline inhibits it.

Planting hydrangeas

If you got a seedling in late autumn, then he will have to spend the winter at home:

  • small - on a window with good natural light;
  • large - in a frost-free cellar.

The most suitable time for planting hydrangeas is early spring... The planting hole is prepared 2-3 weeks before planting the plant.

Before starting planting, you need to do the following steps:

  • Shorten roots slightly.
  • Cut off annual shoots, leaving 3-4 pairs of buds.
  • If possible, add one part of peat mixed with rotted coniferous litter and one part of rotted compost to the planting pit. The first mixture will give the soil airiness and acidify it, and thanks to the compost, the plant will receive nutrients.
  • Water the planted plant abundantly.
  • Mulch the soil around the plant with compost. It is advisable to mix coniferous litter, pieces of pine bark, rotted cones to it.

Experienced flower growers assure that with a good organization of watering, hydrangeas grow anywhere. But they bloom longer in partial shade: these wonderful flowers do not like either bright sun or thick shade. In addition, the location of the plants must be protected from the wind: the shoots of hydrangeas are fragile, and the inflorescences are heavy.

Preparing plants for winter

There are many agrotechnical techniques to help increase the frost resistance of hydrangeas:

  • the soil under the plant should be loose: this contributes to its faster thawing in spring;
  • before wintering, it is necessary to saturate the hydrangea well with water;
  • in the fall, it is imperative to add phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

Panicle hydrangea does not require winter shelter. And the large-leaved one must be reliably covered for the winter. How it's done?

But the most important thing is right choice varieties for the area.

Proper care of hydrangeas

The plant is greatly benefited by monthly watering with a weak solution of potassium permanganate: this procedure has a firming effect on the hydrangea.

Watering with slurry will also benefit your pet.

In spring and early summer, acidic fertilizers (potassium sulfate, ammonium sulfate) should be applied under the bush. But at the end of summer and autumn, hydrangeas will need phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (superphosphate). 2-3 buckets of nutrient solution should be added under one adult bush.

Many growers believe that large-leaved (garden) hydrangeas do not need to be cut at all. They only remove old, weakened and damaged branches. Moreover, they do it at any time. But to form a crown of this type, you must do the following:

  • in the first year after planting in the fall, shorten the main growths, leaving one or two strong buds;
  • thoroughly mulch with humus;
  • in October-November, cut off only the weakest or those breaking symmetry, because during the growing season several powerful growths and many side branches are formed on the main shoots;
  • in the second year, after flowering, cut off all generative shoots;
  • in the third year (as well as all subsequent ones), immediately after the hydrangea has faded, remove all faded shoots on healthy growths located below and cut out all weak branches. If the bush is very thickened, it is necessary to cut out a quarter of all old shoots to the base.

Paniculata hydrangea can be pruned in autumn, winter and spring. But you shouldn't do this every year. During pruning, small, weak branches are removed, as well as intersecting or rubbing. Strong branches are shortened to 25 cm.

You can form a plant in the form of a tree on a low trunk. To do this, a two-year-old bush must leave the most powerful shoot, completely cutting out the remaining branches.

The next year, shorten this shoot to the strongest bud.

Leave only 2-3 of the shoots that have grown in a year. The next year, cut the shoots that have developed on them into 2-3 eyes. It will take you eight to ten years to form a tree.

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